Classifications

• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
  • A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
  • A61Q1/04—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments for lips
  • A61Q1/06—Lipsticks
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
  • A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
  • A61K8/06—Emulsions
  • A61K8/064—Water-in-oil emulsions, e.g. Water-in-silicone emulsions
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
  • A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
  • A61K8/8141—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by only one carboxyl radical, or of salts, anhydrides, esters, amides, imides or nitriles thereof; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
  • A61K8/8147—Homopolymers or copolymers of acids; Metal or ammonium salts thereof, e.g. crotonic acid, (meth)acrylic acid; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
  • A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
  • A61K8/817—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by a single or double bond to nitrogen or by a heterocyclic ring containing nitrogen; Compositions or derivatives of such polymers, e.g. vinylimidazol, vinylcaprolactame, allylamines (Polyquaternium 6)
  • A61K8/8182—Copolymers of vinyl-pyrrolidones. Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/92—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
  • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
  • A61K2800/54—Polymers characterized by specific structures/properties

Definitions

• the present invention relates to a composition, particularly a cosmetic composition, comprising at least one semi-crystalline polymer and an ester, which is in the form in particular of a stick which is smooth on application and which leads to a glossy and comfortable coating.
• compositions whose fatty phase is gelled using semi-crystalline polymers have been described in the as yet unpublished application FR 0106047.
• the lipstick formulas resulting from these inventions are in the form of a stick which lays down a glossy film which is not sticky and provides good coverage. These compositions, however, have the drawback of not going on easily when they are applied to keratin materials.
• composition comprising a liquid fatty phase structured with a semi-crystalline polymer having an organic structure, which is solid at ambient temperature, the coating of which composition on the skin or lips is glossy and comfortable, and which is easy to apply.
• the invention applies in particular to lip makeup products but also to eye makeup products, such as eyeliners, in particular in pencil form, and mascaras, in particular in block form, or skin makeup products, such as foundations.
• the invention provides a makeup composition
• a makeup composition comprising a) at least one liquid fatty phase structured with at least one semi-crystalline polymer having an organic structure and a melting temperature of greater than or equal to 30° C., b) a colorant and c) an ester containing 10 to 40 carbon atoms, the liquid fatty phase, colorant, ester and polymer forming a physiologically acceptable medium.
• the melting temperature of the semi-crystalline polymer is preferably less than 150° C.
• composition of the invention may be in the form of a paste, a solid or a cream. It may be an oil-in-water emulsion or a water-in-oil emulsion, or a solid or soft anhydrous gel. It is preferably in anhydrous form, and more especially in the form of an anhydrous gel, especially cast as a stick or as a dish.
• the term “semi-crystalline polymer” means polymers comprising a crystallizable portion and an amorphous portion in the skeleton and having a first-order reversible change of phase temperature, in particular of melting (solid-liquid transition).
• the crystallizable portion is either a side chain (or pendent chain) or a block in the skeleton.
• polymers means compounds containing at least 2 repeating units, preferably at least 3 repeating units and more especially at least 10 repeating units.
• the crystallizable portion is a block of the polymer skeleton
• this crystallizable block has a different chemical nature to that of the amorphous blocks; in this case, the semi-crystalline polymer is a block copolymer, for example of the diblock, triblock or multiblock type.
• the semi-crystalline polymer may be a homopolymer or a copolymer.
• organic compound and “having an organic structure” mean compounds containing carbon atoms and hydrogen atoms, and possibly heteroatoms such as S, O, N or P, alone or in combination.
• the semi-crystalline polymer(s) of the composition of the invention advantageously comprise a weight-average molecular mass Mw ranging from 5 000 to 1 000 000, preferably from 10 000 to 800 000 and preferentially from 15 000 to 500 000.
• the semi-crystalline polymer(s) according to the invention serving as structuring agent are solids at ambient temperature (25° C.) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg), with a melting temperature of greater than or equal to 30° C.
• the melting point values correspond to the melting point measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), such as the calorimeter sold under the name DSC 30 by the company Mettler, with a temperature rise of 5 or 10° C. per minute (the melting point under consideration is the point corresponding to the temperature of the most endothermic peak of the thermogram).
• DSC differential scanning calorimeter
• the semi-crystalline polymer(s) according to the invention preferably have a melting temperature greater than the temperature of the keratinous support intended for receiving the said composition, in particular the skin or the lips.
• the semi-crystalline polymer(s) according to the invention are capable, alone or as a mixture, of structuring the composition without the addition of a particular surfactant or of filler or of wax.
• the semi-crystalline polymers are advantageously soluble in the fatty phase, especially to at least 1% by weight, at a temperature greater than their melting temperature.
• the blocks of the polymers are amorphous.
• crystallizable chain or block means a chain or block which, if it were alone, would change from the amorphous state to the crystalline state reversibly, depending on whether one is above or below the melting temperature.
• a “chain” is a group of atoms, pendent or lateral relative to the polymer skeleton.
• a “block” is a group of atoms belonging to the skeleton, this group constituting one of the repeating units of the polymer.
• the polymer skeleton of the semi-crystalline polymers is soluble in the liquid fatty phase.
• the crystallizable blocks or chains of the semi-crystalline polymers represent at least 30% of the total weight of each polymer and better still at least 40%.
• the semi-crystalline polymers containing crystallizable side chains are homopolymers or copolymers.
• the semi-crystalline polymers of the invention containing crystallizable blocks are block or multiblock copolymers. They may be obtained by polymerizing a monomer containing reactive (or ethylenic) double bonds or by polycondensation. When the polymers of the invention are polymers containing crystallizable side chains, these side chains are advantageously in random or statistical form.
• the semi-crystalline polymers of the invention are of synthetic origin. Moreover, they do not comprise a polysaccharide skeleton.
• the semi-crystalline polymers useful in the invention are in particular:
• the crystallizable units (chains or blocks) of semi-crystalline polymers according to the invention are derived from monomer(s) containing crystallizable block(s) or chain(s), used for manufacturing semi-crystalline polymers. These polymers are selected especially from homopolymers and copolymers resulting from the polymerization of at least one monomer containing crystallizable chain(s) that may be represented by formula X:
• the crystallizable chains “—S—C” may be aliphatic or aromatic, and optionally fluorinated or perfluorinated.
• “S” especially represents a group (CH 2 ) n or (CH 2 CH 2 O) n or (CH 2 O), which is linear or branched or cyclic, with n being an integer ranging from 0 to 22.
• n being an integer ranging from 0 to 22.
• “S” is a linear group.
• “S” and “C” are different.
• the crystallizable chains are hydrocarbon-based aliphatic chains, they comprise hydrocarbon-based alkyl chains containing at least 11 carbon atoms and not more than 40 carbon atoms and better still not more than 24 carbon atoms. They are especially aliphatic chains or alkyl chains containing at least 12 carbon atoms, and they are preferably C 14 -C 24 , preferably C 16 -C 22 alkyl chains. When they are fluoroalkyl or perfluoroalkyl chains, they contain at least 11 carbon atoms, at least 6 of which carbon atoms are fluorinated.
• semi-crystalline homopolymers or copolymers containing crystallizable chain(s) mention may be made of those resulting from the polymerization of one or more of the following monomers: saturated alkyl (meth)acrylates with the alkyl group being C 14 -C 24 , perfluoroalkyl (meth)acrylates with a C 11 -C 15 perfluoroalkyl group, N-alkyl(meth)acryl-amides with the alkyl group being C 14 to C 24 with or without a fluorine atom, vinyl esters containing alkyl or perfluoro(alkyl) chains with the alkyl group being C 14 to C 24 (with at least 6 fluorine atoms per perfluoroalkyl chain), vinyl ethers containing alkyl or perfluoro(alkyl) chains with the alkyl group being C 14 to C 24 and at least 6 fluorine atoms per perfluoroalkyl chain, C 14 to C 24 alpha-olefin
• the hydrocarbon-based and/or fluorinated crystallizable chains as defined above are borne by a monomer that may be a diacid, a diol, a diamine or a diisocyanate.
• polymers that are the subject of the invention are copolymers, they additionally contain from 0 to 50% of groups Y or Z resulting from the copolymerization:
• Y which is a polar or non-polar monomer or a mixture of the two:
• alkyl means a saturated group especially of C 8 to C 24 , except where otherwise mentioned.
• ⁇ ) of Z which is a polar monomer or a mixture of polar monomers.
• Z has the same definition as the “polar Y” defined above.
• the semi-crystalline polymers containing a crystallizable side chain are alkyl (meth)acrylate or alkyl(meth)acrylamide homopolymers with an alkyl group as defined above, and especially of C 14 -C 24 , copolymers of these monomers with a hydrophilic monomer preferably of different nature from (meth)acrylic acid, for instance N-vinylpyrrolidone or hydroxyethyl (meth)acrylate, and mixtures thereof.
• polymers that are soluble or dispersible in the liquid fatty phase by heating above their melting point mp.
• These polymers are especially block copolymers consisting of at least two blocks of different chemical nature, one of which is crystallizable.
• the semi-crystalline polymers in the composition of the invention may or may not be partially crosslinked, provided that the degree of crosslinking does not interfere with their dissolution or dispersion in the liquid fatty phase by heating above their melting temperature. It may then be a chemical crosslinking, by reaction with a polyfunctional monomer during the polymerization. It may also be a physical crosslinking which may, in this case, be due either to the establishment of bonds of hydrogen or dipolar type between groups borne by the polymer, such as, for example, the dipolar interactions between carboxylate ionomers, these interactions being of small amount and borne by the polymer skeleton; or to a phase separation between the crystallizable blocks and the amorphous blocks borne by the polymer.
• the semi-crystalline polymers in the composition according to the invention are non-crosslinked.
• the structuring semi-crystalline polymer that may be used in the composition according to the invention, mention may be made of the products Intelimer® from the company Landec, described in the brochure “Intelimer® polymers”, Landec IP22 (Rev. 4-97). These polymers are in solid form at ambient temperature (25° C.). They bear crystallizable side chains and have the formula X above.
• the semi-crystalline polymer(s) with a melting temperature mp 2 of less than 50° C. will be referred to as “low-melting polymers” and the crystalline or semi-crystalline compound(s) with a melting temperature mp 1 of greater than or equal to 50° C. will be referred to as “high-melting compounds”.
• the melting point may be measured especially by any known method and in particular using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC).
• the composition advantageously comprises a mixture of a polymer selected from low-melting polymers having a melting temperature of less than 50° C. and of a polymer selected from high-melting polymers having a melting temperature of at least 50° C.
• the high-melting semi-crystalline compound(s) are advantageously polymers with a melting temperature mp 1 such that 50° C. ⁇ mp 1 ⁇ 150° C., better still 55° C. ⁇ mp 1 ⁇ 150° C., and preferably 60° C. ⁇ mp 1 ⁇ 130° C., and the low-melting polymers advantageously have a melting temperature mp 2 such that 30° C. ⁇ mp 2 ⁇ 50° C. and better still 35° C. ⁇ mp 2 ⁇ 45° C.
• This melting temperature is a first-order change of state temperature.
• the low-melting polymers have a melting temperature mp 2 at least equal to the temperature of the keratinous support intended for receiving the composition according to the invention.
• high-melting compounds that may be used in the invention, mention may be made of high-melting waxes, for instance certain polyethylene waxes such as Epolene N-14 sold by Eastman Chemical Cie., carnauba waxes and certain microcrystalline waxes, for instance those sold by Tisco under the brand name “Tisco wax 88′′, and also high-melting semi-crystalline polymers.
• the high-melting compound is a second high-melting organic solid semi-crystalline polymer.
• crystalline polymers that are solid at ambient temperature, having a melting temperature of greater than 50° C.
• random polymers comprising a controlled crystallization, as described in document EP-A-0 951 897, and more particularly the commercial products Engage 8 401 and Engage 8 402 from DuPont de Nemours, with melting temperatures of 51° C. and 64° C. respectively, which are ethylene/1-octene random biopolymers.
• low-melting semi-crystalline polymers obtained by copolymerization of stearyl acrylate and of acrylic acid or of NVP, as described in document U.S. Pat. No. 5,519,063 or EP-A-550 745 and more especially those described in Examples 1 and 2 below, of polymer preparation.
• the low-melting semi-crystalline polymers and/or those with a high melting point do not comprise a carboxylic group.
• the high-melting compound (crystalline or semi-crystalline) and the low-melting compound are in a weight ratio ranging from 10/90 to 90/10, better still from 40/60 to 60/40 and more preferably in a weight ratio of close to 50/50.
• the weight ratio of semi-crystalline polymer having an organic structure relative to the liquid fatty phase is from 0.20 to 0.60 and better still from 0.25 to 0.50, so as to obtain a hard stick that breaks down on contact with the skin or the lips, in particular having a hardness ranging from 100 to 350 gf.
• the gelation of the fatty phase may be adjusted depending on the nature of the polymer(s) and their respective concentrations, and may be such that a rigid structure in the form of a tube or a stick is obtained.
• each polymer is chosen according to the desired hardness of the composition and as a function of the particular application intended.
• the respective amounts of polymer may be such that they allow the production of a solid that can be broken down, in particular having a hardness ranging from 100 to 350 gf.
• This hardness may be measured by the “cheesewire” method, which consists in cutting a tube of lipstick 12.7 mm in diameter and in measuring the hardness at 20° C., using a DFGHS 2 tensile testing machine from the company Indelco-Chatillon, travelling at a speed of 100 mm/minute. It is expressed as the shear force (expressed as gram-force) required to cut a stick under these conditions.
• composition of the invention in cast form, especially in the form of a stick, shows good impact strength.
• composition of the invention is preferably in the form of a solid stick with a hardness ranging from 100 gf to 350 gf, measured according to the “cheesewire” method.
• a hardness ranging from 100 gf to 350 gf, measured according to the “cheesewire” method.
• the total amount of semi-crystalline polymer(s) represents from 0.1% to 80%, better still from 0.5% to 40% and even better still from 3% to 30% of the total weight of the composition. It preferably represents from 15% to 25% by weight of the composition.
• the tubes or sticks according to the invention produce, after application, a glossy, non-sticky coating of uniform colour that gives good coverage (i.e. the skin or the lips do not show through the makeup).
• esters according to the invention signifies a monoester.
• the ester according to the invention contains 10 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferably 12 to 26 carbon atoms and more preferably still 16 to 22 carbon atoms.
• the ester according to the invention is preferably liquid at ambient temperature (25° C.). It is advantageously aliphatic and/or linear.
• the ester preferably represents from 10% to 40% by weight of the composition, and better still from 15% to 30%, preferably from 20% to 25%.
• the ester preferably represents from 15% to 50% of the liquid fatty phase, preferably from 25% to 40%.
• the weight ratio of the ester relative to the semi-crystalline polymer is advantageously between 1 and 2, preferably from 1.3 to 1.7.
• the ester according to the invention may be selected from
• liquid fatty phase means a fatty phase that is liquid at ambient temperature (25° C.) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg), composed of one or more mutually compatible fatty substances that are liquid at ambient temperature, also known as oils. This fatty phase is macroscopically homogeneous.
• the liquid fatty phase structured with the semi-crystalline polymers, constitutes the continuous phase of the composition.
• This fatty phase may contain one or more apolar or non-polar oils or a mixture of apolar oil(s) and of polar oil(s) or a mixture of polar oils, other than the aliphatic alcohol described above.
• apolar oils according to the invention are in particular silicone oils such as linear or cyclic polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) which are liquid at ambient temperature; polydimethylsiloxanes containing alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups, pendent and/or at the end of a silicone chain, these groups containing from 2 to 24 carbon atoms and being liquid at ambient temperature; phenyl silicones, for instance phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes, and 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicates, which are liquid; linear or branched hydrocarbons or fluorocarbons of synthetic or mineral origin, which are liquid, for instance liquid paraffins and derivatives thereof, petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam® sold
• the liquid fatty phase advantageously comprises at least one polar oil and at least one sparingly polar oil, for instance isononyl isononanoate.
• polar oils of the invention are:
• the liquid fatty phase represents, in practice, from 5% to 99% and preferably from 20% to 80% of the total weight of the composition. It advantageously represents at least 60% of the total weight of the composition.
• the composition advantageously comprises a colorant, which may be selected from the lipophilic dyes, hydrophilic dyes, pigments and nacres usually used in cosmetic or dermatological compositions, and mixtures thereof.
• This colorant is generally present in a proportion of from 0.01% to 50% (solids), and preferably from 5% to 30%, of the total weight of the composition (if present).
• the fat-soluble dyes are, for example, Sudan Red, D&C Red 17, D&C Green 6, ⁇ -carotene, soybean oil, Sudan Brown, D&C Yellow 11, D&C Violet 2, D&C Orange 5, quinoline yellow and annatto. They can represent from 0% to 20% of the weight of the composition and better still from 0.01% to 6% (if present).
• the water-soluble dyes are, for example, beetroot juice or methylene blue, and can represent up to 6% of the total weight of the composition.
• the pigments may be white or coloured, mineral and/or organic, and coated or uncoated.
• mineral pigments which may be mentioned are titanium dioxide or zinc dioxide, optionally surface-treated, zirconium oxide or cerium oxide, as well as iron oxides, chromium oxide, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue.
• organic pigments which may be mentioned are carbon black, pigments of D&C type, and lakes based on cochineal carmine or on barium, strontium, calcium or aluminium (such as D&C Red 27, 21 or 7, D&C Yellow 5 or 6 and FD&C Blue No. 1)
• the pigments can represent from 0 to 40% (0.01% to 40%), especially from 0.5% to 35% and better still from 2% to 25% of the total weight of the composition (if present).
• the nacreous pigments may be chosen from white nacreous pigments such as mica, especially mica coated with titanium or with bismuth oxychloride, coloured nacreous pigments such as titanium mica with iron oxides, titanium mica with, in particular, ferric blue or chromium oxide, titanium mica with an organic pigment of the type mentioned above, and also nacreous pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. They can represent from 0% to 25% (0.05% to 25%) and better still from 0.1% to 15% of the total weight of the composition (if present).
• the pigments and nacres are introduced into the composition in the form of a pigment paste.
• pigment paste means a concentrated colloidal dispersion of coated or uncoated coloured particles in a continuous medium, optionally stabilized using a dispersant.
• the makeup composition of the invention may be in the form of a coloured product, in particular for the skin, optionally having care or treatment properties, and may be in particular a foundation, a blusher, a rouge, an eyeshadow, a concealer product, an eyeliner or a body makeup product; a lip makeup product, for instance a lipstick, a lipgloss or a lip pencil, optionally with care or treatment properties; a makeup product for the epidermal derivatives, for instance the nails, for the eyelashes in the form of a mascara, or for the eyebrows and the hair. It is preferably anhydrous or in cast form.
• composition of the invention must be cosmetically acceptable, i.e. it must contain a physiologically acceptable non-toxic medium and must be able to be applied to human skin, epidermal derivatives or lips of the face.
• cosmetically acceptable means a composition of pleasant appearance, odour, feel and, where appropriate, taste.
• At least one wax such as those used hithero in cosmetics may also be used in the composition of the invention.
• a wax is a lipophilic fatty compound that is solid at ambient temperature (25° C.) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg), which undergoes a reversible solid/liquid change of state, having a melting temperature of greater than 40° C. and better still greater than 50° C., which may range up to 200° C., and having an anisotropic crystalline organization in the solid state.
• the size of the crystals is such that the crystals diffract and/or scatter light, giving the composition a cloudy, more or less opaque appearance.
• the composition advantageously contains little or no standard waxes, and especially less than 10% by weight and better still less than 5% of standard wax relative to the total weight of the composition.
• the standard waxes are those generally used in cosmetology and dermatology; they are especially of natural origin, for instance beeswax, candelilla wax, ouricury wax, Japan wax, cork fibre wax, sugarcane wax, paraffin wax, lignite wax, microcrystalline waxes with a melting point>50° C., lanolin wax, montan wax, ozokerites and hydrogenated oils such as hydrogenated jojoba oil, but also waxes of synthetic origin, for instance polyethylene waxes derived from the polymerization of ethylene, waxes obtained by Fischer-Tropsch synthesis, with a melting point>50° C., fatty acid esters and glycerides that are solid at 50° C., and silicone waxes, for instance alkyl- and alkoxy-poly(di)methylsiloxanes and/or poly(di)methylsiloxane esters that are solid at 50° C.
• the composition of the invention contains little or no “matting” fillers and in particular less than 5% of matting filler. This is especially the case when it is desired to obtain a glossy coating on keratin materials such as the lips, the eyelashes and the hair.
• fillers of this type may be used for a foundation.
• a matting filler is generally a filler that absorbs the skin's sweat and/or sebum, for instance silicas, talcs, clays, kaolins and polyamide powders (Nylon®).
• composition according to the invention may be manufactured by the known processes generally used in cosmetology.
• the invention further provides a cosmetic process for caring for, making up or treating human keratin materials and especially human skin, facial lips and epidermal derivatives, comprising the application of the composition, especially the cosmetic composition as defined above, to the keratin materials.
• the invention further provides for the use of an ester containing 10 to 40 carbon atoms in a makeup composition
• a makeup composition comprising a) at least one liquid fatty phase structured with at least one semi-crystalline polymer having an organic structure, the melting temperature of which is greater than or equal to 30° C., and b) a colorant, the liquid fatty phase, the colorant, the ester and the polymer forming a physiologically acceptable medium.
• the invention further provides for the use of a sufficient amount of an ester containing 10 to 40 carbon atoms in a composition containing a physiologically acceptable medium comprising a) at least one liquid fatty phase structured with at least one semi-crystalline polymer having an organic structure, the melting temperature of which is greater than or equal to 30° C., and b) a colorant, as an agent for imparting smoothness on application and gloss to the said composition.
• the invention further provides for the use of an ester containing 10 to 40 carbon atoms in a cosmetic composition containing a physiologically acceptable medium comprising at least one liquid fatty phase structured with at least one semi-crystalline polymer having an organic structure to obtain a composition which is smooth on application and glossy.
• Parleam 120 g of Parleam are introduced into a 1 l reactor equipped with a central paddle stirrer, a condenser and a thermometer, and are heated from ambient temperature to 80° C. over 45 minutes. At 80° C., the mixture C 1 below is introduced over 2 hours: 40 g of cyclohexane+4 g of Trigonox 141 [2,5-bis(2-ethylhexanoylperoxy)-2,5-dimethylhexane].
• the mixture is stirred for a further 3 hours at 80° C. and all of the cyclohexane present in the reaction medium is then distilled off at atmospheric pressure. This gives the polymer at a concentration of 60% by weight of active substance in the Parleam.
• Its weight-average molecular mass is of the order of 20 000-30 000 and its melting temperature T m is 48° C., measured by DSC.
• Example 2 The same procedure as in Example 1 is applied, except that a mixture of 10 g of N-vinylpyrrolidone and 190 g of stearyl acrylate is used.
• the polymer obtained is at a concentration of 60% by weight of active substance in Parleam, its weight-average molecular mass is 43 000-53 000 and its T m is 48° C.
• Example 2 The same procedure as in Example 1 is applied, except that behenyl acrylate is used instead of stearyl acrylate.
• the polymer obtained is at a concentration of 60% by weight of active substance in Parleam. Its weight-average molecular mass is 17 000-27 000 and its T m is 58° C.
• Example 2 The same procedure as in Example 2 is applied, except that behenyl acrylate is used instead of stearyl acrylate.
• the polymer obtained is at a concentration of 60% by weight of active substance in Parleam®. Its weight-average molecular mass is 23 500-33 500 and its T m is 58° C.
• This formula is smooth on application and as a coating is glossy and comfortable.

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• 2002
  • 2002-11-06 WO PCT/FR2002/003801 patent/WO2003061612A1/fr active IP Right Grant
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  • 2002-11-06 US US10/502,448 patent/US20050123493A1/en not_active Abandoned
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