TWI675139B - 衣料 - Google Patents

衣料 Download PDF

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TWI675139B
TWI675139B TW104142666A TW104142666A TWI675139B TW I675139 B TWI675139 B TW I675139B TW 104142666 A TW104142666 A TW 104142666A TW 104142666 A TW104142666 A TW 104142666A TW I675139 B TWI675139 B TW I675139B
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cotton
fiber
clothing
fibers
fabric
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TW201634775A (zh
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白石篤史
中光準司
櫻井大樹
神野藤正隆
吉見貴宏
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日商美津濃股份有限公司
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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41—WEARING APPAREL
    • A41D—OUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
    • A41D31/00—Materials specially adapted for outerwear
    • A41D31/04—Materials specially adapted for outerwear characterised by special function or use
    • A41D31/06—Thermally protective, e.g. insulating
    • A41D31/065—Thermally protective, e.g. insulating using layered materials
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41—WEARING APPAREL
    • A41D—OUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
    • A41D31/00—Materials specially adapted for outerwear
    • A41D31/04—Materials specially adapted for outerwear characterised by special function or use
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41—WEARING APPAREL
    • A41D—OUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
    • A41D3/00—Overgarments
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41—WEARING APPAREL
    • A41D—OUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
    • A41D3/00—Overgarments
    • A41D3/02—Overcoats
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41—WEARING APPAREL
    • A41D—OUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
    • A41D31/00—Materials specially adapted for outerwear
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41—WEARING APPAREL
    • A41D—OUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
    • A41D31/00—Materials specially adapted for outerwear
    • A41D31/02—Layered materials
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D1/00—Woven fabrics designed to make specified articles
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04H—MAKING TEXTILE FABRICS, e.g. FROM FIBRES OR FILAMENTARY MATERIAL; FABRICS MADE BY SUCH PROCESSES OR APPARATUS, e.g. FELTS, NON-WOVEN FABRICS; COTTON-WOOL; WADDING ; NON-WOVEN FABRICS FROM STAPLE FIBRES, FILAMENTS OR YARNS, BONDED WITH AT LEAST ONE WEB-LIKE MATERIAL DURING THEIR CONSOLIDATION
    • D04H1/00—Non-woven fabrics formed wholly or mainly of staple fibres or like relatively short fibres
    • D04H1/02—Cotton wool; Wadding
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04H—MAKING TEXTILE FABRICS, e.g. FROM FIBRES OR FILAMENTARY MATERIAL; FABRICS MADE BY SUCH PROCESSES OR APPARATUS, e.g. FELTS, NON-WOVEN FABRICS; COTTON-WOOL; WADDING ; NON-WOVEN FABRICS FROM STAPLE FIBRES, FILAMENTS OR YARNS, BONDED WITH AT LEAST ONE WEB-LIKE MATERIAL DURING THEIR CONSOLIDATION
    • D04H1/00—Non-woven fabrics formed wholly or mainly of staple fibres or like relatively short fibres
    • D04H1/40—Non-woven fabrics formed wholly or mainly of staple fibres or like relatively short fibres from fleeces or layers composed of fibres without existing or potential cohesive properties
    • D04H1/42—Non-woven fabrics formed wholly or mainly of staple fibres or like relatively short fibres from fleeces or layers composed of fibres without existing or potential cohesive properties characterised by the use of certain kinds of fibres insofar as this use has no preponderant influence on the consolidation of the fleece
    • D04H1/4326—Condensation or reaction polymers
    • D04H1/435—Polyesters
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04H—MAKING TEXTILE FABRICS, e.g. FROM FIBRES OR FILAMENTARY MATERIAL; FABRICS MADE BY SUCH PROCESSES OR APPARATUS, e.g. FELTS, NON-WOVEN FABRICS; COTTON-WOOL; WADDING ; NON-WOVEN FABRICS FROM STAPLE FIBRES, FILAMENTS OR YARNS, BONDED WITH AT LEAST ONE WEB-LIKE MATERIAL DURING THEIR CONSOLIDATION
    • D04H1/00—Non-woven fabrics formed wholly or mainly of staple fibres or like relatively short fibres
    • D04H1/40—Non-woven fabrics formed wholly or mainly of staple fibres or like relatively short fibres from fleeces or layers composed of fibres without existing or potential cohesive properties
    • D04H1/42—Non-woven fabrics formed wholly or mainly of staple fibres or like relatively short fibres from fleeces or layers composed of fibres without existing or potential cohesive properties characterised by the use of certain kinds of fibres insofar as this use has no preponderant influence on the consolidation of the fleece
    • D04H1/4391—Non-woven fabrics formed wholly or mainly of staple fibres or like relatively short fibres from fleeces or layers composed of fibres without existing or potential cohesive properties characterised by the use of certain kinds of fibres insofar as this use has no preponderant influence on the consolidation of the fleece characterised by the shape of the fibres
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04H—MAKING TEXTILE FABRICS, e.g. FROM FIBRES OR FILAMENTARY MATERIAL; FABRICS MADE BY SUCH PROCESSES OR APPARATUS, e.g. FELTS, NON-WOVEN FABRICS; COTTON-WOOL; WADDING ; NON-WOVEN FABRICS FROM STAPLE FIBRES, FILAMENTS OR YARNS, BONDED WITH AT LEAST ONE WEB-LIKE MATERIAL DURING THEIR CONSOLIDATION
    • D04H1/00—Non-woven fabrics formed wholly or mainly of staple fibres or like relatively short fibres
    • D04H1/40—Non-woven fabrics formed wholly or mainly of staple fibres or like relatively short fibres from fleeces or layers composed of fibres without existing or potential cohesive properties
    • D04H1/42—Non-woven fabrics formed wholly or mainly of staple fibres or like relatively short fibres from fleeces or layers composed of fibres without existing or potential cohesive properties characterised by the use of certain kinds of fibres insofar as this use has no preponderant influence on the consolidation of the fleece
    • D04H1/4391—Non-woven fabrics formed wholly or mainly of staple fibres or like relatively short fibres from fleeces or layers composed of fibres without existing or potential cohesive properties characterised by the use of certain kinds of fibres insofar as this use has no preponderant influence on the consolidation of the fleece characterised by the shape of the fibres
    • D04H1/43914—Non-woven fabrics formed wholly or mainly of staple fibres or like relatively short fibres from fleeces or layers composed of fibres without existing or potential cohesive properties characterised by the use of certain kinds of fibres insofar as this use has no preponderant influence on the consolidation of the fleece characterised by the shape of the fibres hollow fibres
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04H—MAKING TEXTILE FABRICS, e.g. FROM FIBRES OR FILAMENTARY MATERIAL; FABRICS MADE BY SUCH PROCESSES OR APPARATUS, e.g. FELTS, NON-WOVEN FABRICS; COTTON-WOOL; WADDING ; NON-WOVEN FABRICS FROM STAPLE FIBRES, FILAMENTS OR YARNS, BONDED WITH AT LEAST ONE WEB-LIKE MATERIAL DURING THEIR CONSOLIDATION
    • D04H1/00—Non-woven fabrics formed wholly or mainly of staple fibres or like relatively short fibres
    • D04H1/40—Non-woven fabrics formed wholly or mainly of staple fibres or like relatively short fibres from fleeces or layers composed of fibres without existing or potential cohesive properties
    • D04H1/42—Non-woven fabrics formed wholly or mainly of staple fibres or like relatively short fibres from fleeces or layers composed of fibres without existing or potential cohesive properties characterised by the use of certain kinds of fibres insofar as this use has no preponderant influence on the consolidation of the fleece
    • D04H1/4391—Non-woven fabrics formed wholly or mainly of staple fibres or like relatively short fibres from fleeces or layers composed of fibres without existing or potential cohesive properties characterised by the use of certain kinds of fibres insofar as this use has no preponderant influence on the consolidation of the fleece characterised by the shape of the fibres
    • D04H1/43918—Non-woven fabrics formed wholly or mainly of staple fibres or like relatively short fibres from fleeces or layers composed of fibres without existing or potential cohesive properties characterised by the use of certain kinds of fibres insofar as this use has no preponderant influence on the consolidation of the fleece characterised by the shape of the fibres nonlinear fibres, e.g. crimped or coiled fibres
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M15/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment
    • D06M15/19—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment with synthetic macromolecular compounds
    • D06M15/37—Macromolecular compounds obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • D06M15/507—Polyesters
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M15/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment
    • D06M15/19—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment with synthetic macromolecular compounds
    • D06M15/37—Macromolecular compounds obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • D06M15/53—Polyethers
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M15/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment
    • D06M15/19—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment with synthetic macromolecular compounds
    • D06M15/37—Macromolecular compounds obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • D06M15/643—Macromolecular compounds obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds containing silicon in the main chain
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41—WEARING APPAREL
    • A41D—OUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
    • A41D2200/00—Components of garments
    • A41D2200/20—Hoods
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41—WEARING APPAREL
    • A41D—OUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
    • A41D2300/00—Details of garments
    • A41D2300/30—Closures
    • A41D2300/322—Closures using slide fasteners
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41—WEARING APPAREL
    • A41D—OUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
    • A41D2600/00—Uses of garments specially adapted for specific purposes
    • A41D2600/10—Uses of garments specially adapted for specific purposes for sport activities
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41—WEARING APPAREL
    • A41D—OUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
    • A41D2600/00—Uses of garments specially adapted for specific purposes
    • A41D2600/10—Uses of garments specially adapted for specific purposes for sport activities
    • A41D2600/104—Cycling
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M2101/00—Chemical constitution of the fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, to be treated
    • D06M2101/16—Synthetic fibres, other than mineral fibres
    • D06M2101/30—Synthetic polymers consisting of macromolecular compounds obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • D06M2101/32—Polyesters
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M2200/00—Functionality of the treatment composition and/or properties imparted to the textile material
    • D06M2200/40—Reduced friction resistance, lubricant properties; Sizing compositions
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2331/00—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
    • D10B2331/04—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyesters, e.g. polyethylene terephthalate [PET]
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2501/00—Wearing apparel
    • D10B2501/04—Outerwear; Protective garments

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Chemical Kinetics & Catalysis (AREA)
  • Physics & Mathematics (AREA)
  • Thermal Sciences (AREA)
  • Nonwoven Fabrics (AREA)
  • Professional, Industrial, Or Sporting Protective Garments (AREA)
  • Outer Garments And Coats (AREA)
  • Details Of Garments (AREA)
  • Bedding Items (AREA)

Abstract

本發明之衣料係於面料內包含填充棉、且存在絎縫線跡(2a、2b)之衣料(1)，上述填充棉為纖維剖面之外周形狀為圓形之聚酯短纖維棉，表面固著有平滑劑，呈開放纖維(開纖)構造，且構成上述填充棉之纖維具有不規則纖維直徑。藉此，可提供一種雖然為合成纖維棉但纖維間之滑動性良好，即便反覆清洗填充棉亦不會偏移或塌軟，且清洗時之脫水性亦良好而易乾之衣料，適用於需要反覆清洗之運動衣料。又，即便因汗、雨、雪、水等而濕透亦可於蓬鬆之狀態下穿著，因此容易因體溫而變乾，可防止身體變冷。

Description

衣料
本發明係關於一種於面料內填充有填充棉之衣料。更詳細而言，係關於一種適合戶外運動之衣料。
自先前以來，於寒冷時期重用於面料內填充有羽絨、合成纖維製填充棉等之衣物。專利文獻1中提出有將經多段延伸、蓬鬆具有彈性且耐熱耐塌軟性優異之聚酯纖維用於車輛用軟墊材料。專利文獻2中提出有將經開纖之短纖維與加壓氣體一併壓入至袋狀布料內。專利文獻3中提出有由未加撚之纖維束與結合構件所構成之人造羽毛。專利文獻4中提出有將非多葉形剖面纖維之細短纖維、多葉形剖面纖維之細短纖維及粗短纖維混合而成之混合填襯棉。
[先前技術文獻]
[專利文獻]
[專利文獻1]日本專利特開平6-093513號公報
[專利文獻2]日本專利特開2006-307364號公報
[專利文獻3]日本專利第3973681號公報
[專利文獻4]日本專利特開2012-214951號公報
然而，習知之加入有羽絨之衣料有若因汗、雨、雪等而濕透時會貼緊身體使身體變冷之問題、及無法清洗之問題。加入有合成纖維等填充棉之衣料有較重、或質地欠佳且反覆清洗時填充棉會偏移或塌軟、或清洗時之脫水性較差不易變乾之問題。
本發明為了解決上述習知之問題而提供一種衣料，其雖然為合成纖維棉但纖維間之滑動性良好，即便反覆清洗填充棉亦不會偏移或塌軟，且清洗時之脫水性亦良好而易乾。
本發明之衣料係於面料內包含填充棉、且存在絎縫線跡(quilt stitch)之衣料，上述填充棉為纖維剖面之外周形狀為圓形之聚酯短纖維棉，表面固著有平滑劑，呈開放纖維構造，且構成上述填充棉之纖維具有不規則纖維直徑。
本發明提供一種衣料，構成其填充棉之纖維之單纖維具有不規則纖維直徑(粗細不均)，且為開放纖維構造，藉此，纖維間之滑動性良好，即便反覆清洗填充棉亦不會偏移或塌軟，且清洗時之脫水性亦良好而易乾。因此，適用於需要反覆清洗之運動衣料。又，即便因汗、雨、雪、水等而濕透亦可於蓬鬆狀態下穿著，因此容易因體溫而變乾，可防止身體 變冷。
1‧‧‧衣料
2a、2b‧‧‧絎縫線跡
圖1係本發明一實施例之衣料之前視圖。
圖2係填充至該衣料中之纖維之觀察照片(使用數位顯微鏡，倍率500倍)。
圖3係顯示使用本發明一實施例之衣料與比較例2(羽絨)之衣料之保暖性比較實驗的圖表。
圖4係顯示使用本發明一實施例之衣料與比較例2(羽絨)之衣料之清洗後之乾燥速度比較實驗的圖表。
本發明適用於寒冷時期之登山、滑雪、跑步、健走、自行車、網球等運動中所穿著之夾棉衣料。此衣料於面料內包含填充棉，且縫入絎縫線跡。當縫入絎縫線跡，則填充棉不易移動，可防止清洗時之偏移。又，作為運動用衣料之機能性較高，不易妨礙人體之活動。
填充棉使用纖維剖面之外周形狀為圓形之纖維。較佳為使用纖維剖面之外周形狀為圓形之聚酯中空短纖維棉。若纖維剖面之外周形狀為圓形，則脫水性變得良好。又，聚酯中空棉容易含有空氣而較溫暖，因此自先前以來一直被使用。於此填充棉之表面塗覆有平滑劑。藉由塗覆平滑劑，纖維間之滑動性變得良好。作為平滑劑，有聚有機矽氧烷等矽氧樹 脂化合物、聚氧乙烯烷基醚等界面活性劑等。該等平滑劑固著於纖維表面，較佳為具有耐清洗性者。平滑劑相對於纖維之固著量較佳為0.05~5質量%，更佳為0.1~3質量%，又更佳為0.3~2質量%。
填充棉係纖維剖面之外周形狀為圓形之纖維彼此不藉由黏合劑或融合纖維等結合，且纖維塊未成型為片狀之狀態，即以梳棉網(card web)為代表之開纖棉之狀態。將該狀態稱為「開放纖維構造」。於利用黏合劑結合之情形時，通常將包含有機溶劑之黏合劑塗佈於纖維表面，利用黏合劑使纖維彼此以化學方式結合。於利用融合纖維結合之情形時，藉由熱使融合纖維熔解，於該狀態下纖維彼此接觸之部位於冷卻時結合。本發明之填充棉既不含黏合劑亦不含融合纖維。
構成本發明之填充棉之1根纖維(單纖維)具有不規則纖維直徑。若具有不規則纖維直徑，則纖維間之摩擦降低。其原因在於：纖維間之接觸接近點接觸。藉由利用單纖維之不規則纖維直徑降低摩擦、與利用表面之平滑劑提高平滑性之協同效應，該衣料即便反覆清洗填充棉亦不會偏移或塌軟，且清洗時之脫水性亦良好而易乾。其適用於以反覆清洗作為前提之運動衣料。又，即便因汗、雨、雪等而濕透亦可於蓬鬆之狀態下穿著，因此容易因體溫而變乾，可防止身體變冷。進而，由於纖維不易塌軟，因此於單纖維間包含空氣，可保持溫暖性。關於構成纖維之1根纖維之不規則纖維直徑，對纖維側面進行觀察時之直徑之最大值與最小值之差較佳為2~20μm，更佳為3~18μm，又更佳為3~15μm。當1根纖維直徑之最大值與最小值之差未達2μm時，則纖維彼此接觸之面積增大，摩擦增高，有因清洗等而纏繞、容易偏移之傾向。當上述差超過20μm時， 則因凹凸增大，有因凸與凹而卡住，因清洗等而纏繞、容易偏移之傾向。不規則纖維直徑係以對纖維進行數位顯微鏡觀察並對纖維直徑進行測量而得之資料表示。於本發明之填充棉中，加入一部分具有不規則纖維直徑之纖維即可，較佳為加入10質量%以上。具有不規則纖維直徑之纖維之存在量更佳為40質量%以上，又更佳為60質量%以上。
由絎縫線跡所圍成之面積較佳為3~800cm2，更佳為4~600cm2。若為此範圍，則可使耐清洗性進一步變得良好。若面積為3cm2以上，則不會因絎縫而壓縮體積，作為製品可獲得能夠令人滿意之蓬鬆感。填充棉之每單位面積之填充量較佳為50~500g/m2，更佳為80~400g/m2。於填充量超過500g/m2之情形時，作為製品有較重之感，且棉於絎縫內之移動受到限制，因此穿著舒適度變差。於未達50g/m2之情形時，則會因清洗使棉偏移，從而產生外觀變化。
纖維剖面之外周形狀為圓形之纖維棉之纖維細度較佳為1.1~5.5dtex，更佳為1.5~5.0dtex。纖維長為20~120mm，較佳為10~100mm，更佳為15~80mm。中空率較佳為10~50%，更佳為15~40%。若為上述範圍，則作為填充棉之溫暖性或蓬鬆性等基本性質較高。
纖維剖面之外周形狀為圓形之纖維棉之捲曲數較佳為2~9個/2.5cm，更佳為3~8個/2.5cm。若為上述範圍，則作為填充棉之溫暖性或蓬鬆性等基本性質較高，不易塌軟。若捲曲變化率為25%以下，則因清洗所引起之蓬鬆性降低或偏移較少，可維持保暖性。
本發明於在面料內填充填充棉後，縫入絎縫線跡，將上述填充棉之至少一部分固定於面料。藉此，可阻止填充棉之移動，而可提高耐 清洗性。於在面料內配置不織布並填充有填充棉之情形時，填充棉與不織布互相接觸之摩擦阻力與面料相比增大，可防止因清洗引起之偏移。不織布較佳為40g/m2以下。其原因在於：若超過該重量，則製品較硬而產生反彈力，因此穿著者難以活動。不織布之組成、成型方法、樹脂之有無、樹脂之種類並無限定。
以下使用圖式進行說明。圖1係本發明一實施例之衣料之前視圖。此衣料1係以連帽夾克(jumper)為例，其有多條絎縫線跡2a、2b。圖2係構成填充至該衣料中之填充棉之纖維之觀察照片。詳細之說明藉由實施例進行。
[實施例]
以下，使用實施例進一步具體說明。又，本發明並非限定於以下述實施例進行解釋。
<清洗偏移率>
依據JIS L0217 103法對試樣進行清洗，確認剛脫水後之試樣之棉之偏移。測量部位為試樣內偏移最大之絎縫。清洗偏移率係藉由下述算式算出。
清洗偏移率(%)=A/B×100
A：剛脫水後之絎縫內之棉偏移而厚度明顯較薄之部位之面積
B：A中所測得之絎縫之面積
<脫水率評價>
於清洗前測量試樣之重量，並將此時之重量設為C。確認剛脫水後之試樣之棉之偏移，並將此時之重量設為D。脫水率評價係藉由下述算式算出。
脫水率(%)=D/C×100
<保暖性評價>
依據KES(精密迅速熱物性測定裝置Thermo Lab II)保暖性評價(△T=20℃)進行評價。
<感觀評價>
由20名一般男性對接觸試樣時之蓬鬆感、清洗後試樣之外觀進行感觀評價。評價基準如下所述。
1分：非常差
2分：較差
3分：普通
4分：良好
5分：非常良好
<捲曲率評價>
依據JIS L 1015化學纖維短纖維試驗方法進行評價，並藉由下述計算式評價捲曲率。
捲曲變化率=(F-E)/E×100
E：填充前之捲曲數(個/2.5cm)
F：填充後之捲曲數(個/2.5cm)
(實施例1~8)
將由聚對苯二甲酸乙二酯構成之中空短纖維棉(平均纖維細度3.3dtex、纖維長38mm、圓形剖面、中空率20%、捲曲數5個/25.4mm)作為填充棉。此填充棉係經開纖，且表面被賦予固著有1質量%之纖維處理劑(平滑劑)，該纖維處理劑包含聚有機矽氧烷系之矽氧樹脂化合物與聚氧乙烯烷 基醚。該纖維之觀察照片顯示於圖2，不規則纖維直徑如表1所示。圖2係使用KEYENCE股份有限公司製造之數位顯微鏡裝置(倍率500倍)而得之觀察照片。利用數位顯微鏡裝置之測定方法如下所述。
本體：VHX數位顯微鏡，VHX-200
透鏡：VH-Z100
<顯微鏡2點間距離測量方法>
自狀態欄之透鏡按鈕選擇所使用之透鏡倍率。
自選單欄選擇測量。
選擇測量工具之2點間按鈕，點選所測量之2點間之起點。
點選終點，讀取所顯示之距離。
起點、終點為纖維之周圍之最外圍至最外圍。
使用將表1所示之纖維A-C以變得均質之方式混合而成之填充棉，作為面布、襯裏之面料使用將聚酯(PET)複絲加工紗(纖維細度22dtex)以經紗密度262根/25.4mm、緯紗密度148根/25.4mm形成之平紋織物(單位面積重量32g/m2)，並以成為表2所示之絎縫面積之方式縫入線跡。其結果亦一併顯示於表2。表2中，實施例2之不織布係將單位面積重量20g/m2之紡絲黏合不織布加至面料內進行縫製之例。
(比較例1)
使用市售之顆粒棉作為填充物，除此以外，與實施例1相同地進行實驗。
(比較例2)
使用市售之羽絨作為填充物，除此以外，與實施例1相同地進行實驗。
(比較例3)
使用市售之樹脂棉作為填充物，除此以外，與實施例1相同地進行實驗。
(比較例4)
使用捲曲變化率為30%之市售之聚酯(PET)棉作為填充物，除此以外，與實施例1相同地進行實驗。此市售棉為短纖維之開纖棉，但構成此市售棉之單纖維無粗細度不均之情況。
藉由表2可知，實施例1~8之蓬鬆感良好，幾乎無因清洗引起之填充棉之偏移，脫水率與保暖性及感觀試驗結果亦良好。
其次，進行保暖性之比較實驗。此試驗使用實施例1與比較例2(羽絨)，將圖1所示之衣料穿著於Thermal Manikin(京都電子工業股份有限公司製造)上，將Thermal Manikin之表面溫度設定為40℃，根據此時之消耗電力求出clo值。於測定環境之溫度為室溫20℃、相對濕度為65%RH之狀態下進行。依照初期之狀態、清洗並脫水後之狀態、濕潤狀態之順序進行測量。將其結果顯示於圖3之圖表。脫水可假定為衣料整體被雨淋濕之狀態，濕潤可假定為衣料整體因汗而濕潤之狀態。舒適溫度範圍係成為一般之衣料內結構(PMV(Predicted Mean Vote，預測平均冷熱感指標))之-0.5℃~+0.5℃之範圍之外部氣溫。實施例1之衣料於初期時與舒適溫度範圍之差為1.1℃，於脫水時與舒適溫度範圍之差為4.5℃，於濕潤時與舒適溫度範圍之差為2.4℃。
藉由以上所述可知，實施例1之衣料即便進行清洗保暖性亦不變，因水濕透時及流汗時之保暖性與比較例2(羽絨)相比更為優異。因此，可確認實施例1之衣料既可耐受惡劣天氣，亦適用於劇烈運動。
其次，對乾燥速度進行比較。使用實施例1與比較例2(羽絨)，將圖1所示之衣料之初期、剛清洗後、1小時後、2小時後之質量變化顯示於圖4。藉由圖4可確認，實施例1之衣料剛清洗後之水分率較低，乾燥速度亦較快。其顯示了衣料之脫水性與即便因雨而濕透亦可較快地變乾一事，可確認其在清洗時無需特殊處理(easy care)，且即便濕透，身體亦不會變冷。
[產業上之可利用性]
本發明之衣料除了適用於登山、滑雪、跑步、健走、自行車、網球等運動中所穿著之夾棉衣料以外，亦適用於作業穿著或一般之防寒穿著。

Claims (9)

  1. 一種衣料，係於面料內包含填充棉、且存在絎縫線跡者，其特徵在於：上述填充棉為纖維剖面之外周形狀為圓形之聚酯短纖維棉，表面固著有平滑劑，呈開放纖維構造，且構成上述填充棉之纖維具有不規則纖維直徑；上述聚酯短纖維棉為中空纖維，纖維細度為1.1~5.5dtex，纖維長為20~120mm，中空率為10~50%。
  2. 如申請專利範圍第1項之衣料，其中上述構成纖維之不規則纖維直徑於對1根纖維側面進行觀察時之直徑之最大值與最小值之差為2~20μm。
  3. 如申請專利範圍第1項之衣料，其中由上述絎縫線跡所圍成之面積為3~800cm2。
  4. 如申請專利範圍第1項之衣料，其中上述填充棉之每單位面積之填充量為50~500g/m2。
  5. 如申請專利範圍第1項之衣料，其中上述聚酯短纖維棉之捲曲數為2~9個/2.5cm。
  6. 如申請專利範圍第1項之衣料，其中藉由存在上述絎縫線跡，上述填充棉之至少一部分被固定於上述面料。
  7. 如申請專利範圍第1項之衣料，其中上述衣料係在上述面料內配置有上述填充棉並進一步配置有不織布。
  8. 如申請專利範圍第1項之衣料，其中依據JIS L 1015化學纖維短纖維試驗方法進行評價，並藉由下述計算式評價捲曲率時，上述填充棉之捲 曲變化率為25%以下。捲曲變化率=(F-E)/E×100 E：填充前之捲曲數(個/2.5cm)F：填充後之捲曲數(個/2.5cm)
  9. 如申請專利範圍第1項之衣料，其中上述衣料之保暖性(clo值)係2.00以上。
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