JP5743479B2 - 水中油型乳化組成物 - Google Patents
水中油型乳化組成物 Download PDFInfo
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- JP5743479B2 JP5743479B2 JP2010227855A JP2010227855A JP5743479B2 JP 5743479 B2 JP5743479 B2 JP 5743479B2 JP 2010227855 A JP2010227855 A JP 2010227855A JP 2010227855 A JP2010227855 A JP 2010227855A JP 5743479 B2 JP5743479 B2 JP 5743479B2
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Landscapes
- Cosmetics (AREA)
Description
(b) IOB値が0.35以上であり、25℃で液状の脂肪酸エステル又は脂肪族アルコール(成分(c)を除く)
(c) アシルアミノ酸エステル
成分(a)のステロイド骨格を有する融点100℃以上の化合物としては、具体的には、コレステロール、コレスタノール、ラノステロール、ブラシカステロール、フィトステロール(β-シトステロール、カンペステロール、スティグマステロール)、γ-オリザノール等のステロール類のほか、エストロゲン、エチニルエストロゲン等が挙げられ、成分(c)に該当するアシルアミノ酸ステロールエステルは成分(a)には該当しないものとする。これら成分(a)は、いずれか1種を単独で使用することもでき、また2種以上を組み合わせて使用することもできる。また、これらのステロイド骨格を有する化合物を含有する動植物油等の混合物も使用することができる。
成分(b)のIOB値が0.35以上で25℃で液状の脂肪酸エステル又は脂肪族アルコールとしては、具体的にはイソステアリン酸プロピレングリコール(IOB値:0.4)、オレイン酸プロピレングリコール(IOB値:0.39)、クエン酸トリエチルヘキシル(IOB値:0.49)、ジオクタン酸エチレングリコール(IOB値:0.35)、ジカプリン酸ジエチレングリコール(IOB値:0.41)、ジカプロン酸プロピレングリコール(IOB値:0.4)、ジミリスチン酸グリセリル(IOB値:0.35)、ジヤシ油脂肪酸グリセリル(IOB値:0.41)、ジラウリン酸グリセリル(IOB値:0.41)、ジラウリン酸ジエチレングリコール(IOB値:0.35)、ジラウリン酸ポリエチレングリコール(IOB値:0.45)、ジ酢酸モノステアリン酸グリセリル(IOB値:0.36)、セスキオレイン酸グリセリル(IOB値:0.41)、セバシン酸ジイソプロピル(IOB値:0.4)、セバシン酸ジエチル(IOB値:0.43)、トリ2-エチルへキサン酸グリセリル(IOB値:0.35)、パルミチン酸エチレングリコール(IOB値:0.44)、ヒマシ油脂肪酸メチル(IOB値:0.43)、モノオレイン酸エチレングリコール(IOB値:0.41)、モノステアリン酸エチレングリコール(IOB値:0.4)、モノステアリン酸プロピレングリコール(IOB値:0.38)、ヤシ油アルコール(IOB値:0.42)、ラウリルアルコール(IOB値:0.42)、ラウリン酸プロピレングリコール(IOB値:0.54)、乳酸オクチルドデシル(IOB値:0.36)、乳酸オレイル(無IOB値:0.39)、乳酸ラウリル(IOB値:0.52)等を例示することができる。保存安定性の一層の向上が見られる点から、IOB値が0.4以上の脂肪族エステルが特に好ましく用いられる。また、IOB値の上限は特に限定されないが、好ましくは0.8以下、より好ましくは0.6以下、特に好ましくは0.55以下である。これら成分(b)は、いずれか1種を単独で使用することもでき、また2種以上を組み合わせて使用することもできる。
成分(c)のアシルアミノ酸エステルは、アミノ酸とアシルクロリドをアルカリ存在下縮合させてN-アシルアミノ酸とし、しかる後、塩基又は酸の存在下、所望により溶剤を存在させ、対応するアルコールと脱水縮合させることにより製造することが出来る。アミノ酸として、グルタミン酸やアスパラギン酸のような酸性アミノ酸を用いた場合にはカルボキシ基を2つ有していることから、性質の異なるアルコールをそれぞれ、あるいは混合して結合させることも可能であり、好ましい。すなわち、アシルアミノ酸エステルとしては、N-アシル酸性アミノ酸ジエステルが好ましい。また、製品の入手のしやすさ等を考慮すると、アミノ酸としては、グルタミン酸が好ましい。
本発明の水中油型乳化組成物には、保存安定性を向上させる点から、更に成分(d)として増粘剤を含有することが好ましい。増粘剤として具体的には、アラビアガム、トラガカントガム、ガラクタンガム、キャロブガム、グアーガム、カラヤガム、カラギーナン、ペクチン、カンテン、クインスシード(マルメロ)、デンプン(コメ、トウモロコシ、バレイショ、コムギ)、アルゲコロイド(褐藻エキス)等の植物系高分子;デキストラン、サクシノグルカン、プルラン等の微生物系高分子;コラーゲン、カゼイン、アルブミン、ゼラチン等の動物系高分子;カルボキシメチルデンプン、メチルヒドロキシプロピルデンプン等のデンプン系高分子;メチルセルロース、ニトロセルロース、エチルセルロース、メチルヒドロキシプロピルセルロース、ヒドロキシエチルセルロース、セルロース硫酸ナトリウム、ヒドロキシプロピルセルロース、カルボキシメチルセルロースナトリウム、結晶セルロース、セルロース末等のセルロース系高分子;アルギン酸ナトリウム、アルギン酸プロピレングリコールエステル等のアルギン酸系高分子;ポリビニルメチルエーテル、カルボキシビニルポリマー(GF Goodrich社製CARBOPOL941など)等のビニル系高分子;ポリオキシエチレン系高分子;ポリオキシエチレンポリオキシプロピレン共重合体系高分子;ポリアクリル酸ナトリウム、ポリエチルアクリレート、ポリアクリアミド等のアクリル系高分子;ポリエチレンイミン;カチオン化グアーガム、カチオン化セルロース等のカチオン化ポリマー;ベントナイト、ケイ酸アルミニウムマグネシウム、ラポナイト、ヘクトライト、無水ケイ酸等の無機系増粘剤等が挙げられる。これら成分(d)は、いずれか1種を単独で使用することもでき、また2種以上を組み合わせて使用することもできる。
本発明で使用する油剤としては、成分(b)及び成分(c)以外に、通常化粧料に用いられる油性成分が挙げられ、具体的にはトリグリセリド(液体天然油脂、固体天然油脂)、ロウ類、エステル油(成分(b)以外のもの)、炭化水素油、高級脂肪酸、高級アルコール(成分(b)以外のもの)、シリコーン油、フッ素油等が挙げられる。これら油剤の含有量は、水中油型乳化組成物の形態によって異なるが、水中油型乳化組成物の総量に対し、0.5〜40質量%、更に1〜30質量%であるのが使用感及び保存安定性の点で好ましい。
本発明の水中油型乳化組成物には、乳化剤として界面活性剤を含有することができ、アニオン界面活性剤、カチオン界面活性剤、非イオン界面活性剤、両性界面活性剤のいずれを使用することもできる。例えば、アルキルベンゼンスルホン酸塩、アルキル又はアルケニルエーテル硫酸塩、アルキル又はアルケニル硫酸塩、オレフィンスルホン酸塩、アルカンスルホン酸塩、飽和又は不飽和脂肪酸塩、アルキル又はアルケニルエーテルカルボン酸塩、α-スルホン脂肪酸塩、N-アシルアミノ酸型界面活性剤、リン酸モノ又はジエステル型界面活性剤、ポリオキシアルキレンアルキルエーテルリン酸塩、スルホコハク酸エステル等のアニオン界面活性剤;イミダゾリン系、カルボベタイン系、アミドベタイン系、スルホベタイン系、ヒドロキシスルホベタイン系、アミドスルホベタイン系両性界面活性剤等の両性界面活性剤;ポリオキシアルキレンアルキルエーテル、ポリオキシアルキレンアルケニルエーテル、高級脂肪酸ショ糖エステル、ポリグリセリン脂肪酸エステル、高級脂肪酸モノエタノールアミド又はジエタノールアミド、ポリオキシエチレン硬化ヒマシ油、ポリオキシエチレンソルビタン脂肪酸エステル、ポリオキシエチレンソルビット脂肪酸エステル、アルキルサッカライド系界面活性剤、アルキルアミンオキサイド、アルキルアミドアミンオキサイド等の非イオン界面活性剤;イミダゾリン開環型第四級アンモニウム塩、第四級アンモニウム塩、モノ長鎖アルキル第四級アンモニウム塩、ジ長鎖アルキル第四級アンモニウム塩等のカチオン界面活性剤などが挙げられる。
リン脂質を用いた乳化では、内相油剤の選択や外水相の配合物によっては著しく保存安定性が低下するため、本発明の水中油型乳化組成物は、リン脂質を実質的に含有しないものである。ここで、「実質的に含有しない」とは、積極的に配合しないことを意味し、具体的には、リン脂質の含有量が、水中油型乳化組成物の総量中、0.001質量%以下、更には0.0001質量%以下であることをいい、全く含有しないことが最も好ましい。リン脂質としては、グリセロリン脂質、スフィンゴリン脂質等が挙げられる。
本発明の水中油型乳化組成物には、水、増粘剤、紫外線吸収剤、金属イオン封鎖剤、中和剤、pH調整剤、酸化防止剤、抗菌剤、薬剤、各種の抽出液等の通常化粧料に用いられる各種の原料が使用できる。
表1に示す種々の組成のクリームを製造し、保存安定性及び使用感について評価した。なお、クリームの製造は、Aの油相部にBの水相部を加えて、乳化機で乳化することによって行った。
評価試料を、高温条件下(50℃)、低温サイクル(0〜10℃を24時間かけて1往復)、及び低温条件下(-20℃、凍結状態)で1ヶ月保持し、1ヶ月後の状態を目視にて評価した。外観に特に問題がない場合は「○」、気液界面での若干の油浮きが見られる場合は「△」、分離若しくは結晶の析出が確認できる場合は「×」と評価した。
女性パネル15名により、モイスチャークリームの使用感に関する評価として、「伸びの良さ」、「肌収まりの良さ」、「べたつき感・ヌルつき感のなさ」の3項目についてそれぞれ5段階評価し、平均点(小数点2位以下は四捨五入)を算出することにより判定した。
5点:非常に良い
4点:良い
3点:普通、
2点:やや悪い
1点:悪い
下記処方において、エタノール相(A)を水相(B)に添加し、乳化機で乳化することによってローションを調製した。調製したローションを前記と同様に評価したところ、本実施例のローションは、実施例1〜5と同様に、優れた使用感を示し、保存安定性が高いことが分かった。
A.エタノール相
エタノール 10.0
フェノキシエタノール 0.1
ポリソルベート80 0.1
ポリオキシエチレン(60)硬化ヒマシ油 0.3
フィトステロール 0.3
イソステアリン酸プロピレングリコール 0.3
N-ラウロイル-L-グルタミン酸ジ(フィトステリル・ベヘニル
・2-オクチルドデシル) 0.5
香料(表2に示すもの) 適量
B.水相
1,3-ブチレングリコール 2.0
グリセリン 3.0
キサンタンガム 0.05
カルボキシビニルポリマー 0.05
乳酸 0.1
水酸化カリウム 0.1
着色料 適量
精製水 残量
下記処方において、エタノール相(A)に水相(B)を添加後、乳化機で乳化することによって美容液を調製した。調製した美容液を前記と同様に評価したところ、本実施例の美容液は、実施例1〜5と同様に、優れた使用感を示し、保存安定性が高いことが分かった。
A.エタノール相
エタノール 10.0
フェノキシエタノール 0.1
クロルフェネシン 0.1
ポリオキシエチレン(60)硬化ヒマシ油 1.0
モノステアリン酸グリセリル 0.3
コレステロール 0.5
ラウリン酸プロピレングリコール 0.2
N-ラウロイル-L-グルタミン酸ジ(フィトステリル・ベヘニル
・2-オクチルドデシル) 0.8
フェニルトリメチコン 0.2
香料(表2に示すもの) 適量
B.水相
ジプロピレングリコール 3.0
グリセリン 5.0
キサンタンガム 0.2
カルボキシビニルポリマー 0.05
水酸化カリウム 0.1
着色料 適量
精製水 残量
下記処方において、油相(A)と水相(B)をそれぞれ80℃に加熱溶解させた後、油相(A)を水相(B)に加え、乳化機で乳化した後、冷却することによって、乳液を調製した。調製した乳液を上記と同様に評価したところ、本実施例の乳液は、べたつき・ヌルつきの点で優れた使用感を示し、保存安定性が高いことが分かった。
A.油相
ステアリン酸 0.3
フェノキシエタノール 0.1
ポリオキシエチレン(20)セチルエーテル 1.0
モノステアリン酸グリセリン 1.0
α-オレフィンオリゴマー 8.0
γ-オリザノール 1.0
セバシン酸ジエチル 2.0
N-ラウロイル-L-グルタミン酸ジ(フィトステリル・ベヘニル
・2-オクチルドデシル) 2.0
香料(表2に示すもの) 適量
B.水相
ジプロピレングリコール 2.0
グリセリン 5.0
キサンタンガム 0.3
ベントナイト 0.3
N-ラウロイル-L-グルタミン酸ナトリウム 0.3
着色料 適量
精製水 残量
下記処方において、油相(A)と水相(B)をそれぞれ80℃に加熱溶解させた後、油相(A)を水相(B)に加え、乳化機で乳化した後、冷却することによって、ボディクリームを調製した。調製したボディクリームを上記と同様に評価したところ、本実施例のボディクリームは、べたつき・ヌルつきの点で優れた使用感を示し、保存安定性が高いことが分かった。
A.油相
ステアリン酸 0.5
ベヘニルアルコール 2.5
ミツロウ 0.1
フェノキシエタノール 0.3
ポリオキシエチレン(20)セチルエーテル 1.0
モノイソステアリン酸ソルビタン 2.0
α-オレフィンオリゴマー 5.0
コメヌカエキス(※1) 15.0
セバシン酸ジイソプロピル 3.0
N-ラウロイル-L-グルタミン酸ジ(フィトステリル・ベヘニル
・2-オクチルドデシル) 3.0
香料(表2に示すもの) 適量
B.水相
ジプロピレングリコール 2.0
グリセリン 10.0
キサンタンガム 0.3
ポリアクリルアミド 1.0
グリチルリチン酸ジカリウム 0.2
着色料 適量
精製水 残量
※1:「ライストリエノール」筑野ライスファインケミカル社製、油溶性コメヌカエキスであり、ステロール類を10%以上含む。(処方中ステロール類=約1.5%)
Claims (7)
- 下記成分(a)〜(c)を含有し、成分(a)の含有量と、成分(b)及び(c)の合計含有量との質量比(a)/〔(b)+(c)〕が、3/2〜1/10であり、かつリン脂質を実質的に含有しない水中油型乳化組成物。
(a) ステロイド骨格を有する融点100℃以上の化合物(成分(c)を除く) 0.5〜4質量%
(b) IOB値が0.35〜0.8であり、25℃で液状の脂肪酸エステル又は脂肪族アルコール(成分(c)を除く)
(c) アシル基が炭素数8〜30のアシル基であり、かつエステルを構成するアルコール成分から導かれる基が脂肪族アルコールから導かれる炭素数16〜36の基及びステロール類から導かれる炭素数16〜36の基である、N-アシル酸性アミノ酸ジエステル - 成分(a)の含有量と、成分(b)及び(c)の合計含有量との質量比(a)/〔(b)+(c)〕が、1/1〜1/10である請求項1記載の水中油型乳化組成物。
- 成分(c)のアシル基が、2-エチルヘキサノイル基、ラウロイル基、ミリストイル基、パルミトイル基、ステアロイル基、ベヘノイル基、オレオイル基、イソステアロイル基又はリノレノイル基である請求項1又は2記載の水中油型乳化組成物。
- 成分(c)が、N-ラウロイル-L-グルタミン酸ジ(フィトステリル・ベヘニル・2-オクチルドデシル)、N-ラウロイル-L-グルタミン酸ジ(フィトステリル・2-オクチルドデシル)、N-ラウロイル-L-グルタミン酸ジ(コレステリル・オクチルドデシル)、及びN-ラウロイル-L-グルタミン酸ジ(コレステリル・ベヘニル・オクチルドデシル)からなる群から選択される1種又は2種以上である請求項1〜3のいずれか1項記載の水中油型乳化組成物。
- 成分(c)の含有量が、0.5〜5質量%である請求項1〜4のいずれか1項記載の水中油型乳化組成物。
- 更に、成分(d)として増粘剤を含有する請求項1〜5のいずれか1項記載の水中油型乳化組成物。
- 皮膚化粧料である請求項1〜6のいずれか1項記載の水中油型乳化組成物。
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