EP2801648A1 - Procédé de production de données de commande de couture - Google Patents

Procédé de production de données de commande de couture Download PDF

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Publication number
EP2801648A1
EP2801648A1 EP14164669.5A EP14164669A EP2801648A1 EP 2801648 A1 EP2801648 A1 EP 2801648A1 EP 14164669 A EP14164669 A EP 14164669A EP 2801648 A1 EP2801648 A1 EP 2801648A1
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EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
seam
sewing
assignment
sections
parameter
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EP14164669.5A
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German (de)
English (en)
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EP2801648B1 (fr
Inventor
Tobias Wildberg
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Duerkopp Adler AG
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Duerkopp Adler AG
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Publication of EP2801648A1 publication Critical patent/EP2801648A1/fr
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    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D05—SEWING; EMBROIDERING; TUFTING
    • D05B—SEWING
    • D05B69/00—Driving-gear; Control devices
    • D05B69/20—Control devices responsive to the number of stitches made
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D05—SEWING; EMBROIDERING; TUFTING
    • D05B—SEWING
    • D05B19/00—Programme-controlled sewing machines
    • D05B19/02—Sewing machines having electronic memory or microprocessor control unit
    • D05B19/04—Sewing machines having electronic memory or microprocessor control unit characterised by memory aspects
    • D05B19/10—Arrangements for selecting combinations of stitch or pattern data from memory ; Handling data in order to control stitch format, e.g. size, direction, mirror image

Definitions

  • the invention relates to a generating method for generating sewing control data for executing a sewing program. Further, the invention relates to an operating method for a sewing machine for producing a seam based on the generated sewing control data and a sewing machine for performing such a method.
  • a corresponding sewing machine is known from the EP 1 897 984 A2 .
  • An operating method for a sewing machine for connecting two workpieces is known from the DE 199 20 350 C1 ,
  • This object is achieved by a generating method in claim 1 indicating characteristics.
  • a parameter value assignment leads to the possibility of performing the assignment of the parameter values independently of an actual subdivision of the seam into a plurality of seam sections such that the resulting parameter value assignment to one Processing of the seam leads to processing with optimally assigned parameter values within specified tolerances matches.
  • the match-sewing parameter values result from the assignment-sewing parameter values of the at least one assignment seam position that is on the currently-considered seam portion.
  • the matching sewing parameter value for this seam portion results from a combination of the assignment-sewing parameter values.
  • the combination may be a mathematical operation, e.g. B. to an addition or to an averaging.
  • the assignment of assignment seam positions according to the invention which takes place independently of a division of the seam into the seam sections, has the advantage that different, individual partitions of the seam in seam sections are possible.
  • the seam can therefore be divided depending on the preferences of an operator, yet a desired Nähissue is still achieved within predetermined or predefinable tolerance limits.
  • the sewing parameter can be a degree value, but also another parameter, for example a thread tension value, a curl value or, for a predeterminable feed arc, that is to say a specifiable arc radius of a seam, an arc radius value.
  • the assignment sewing parameter values may be assigned as empirical values. Thus, preparatory sewing processes and / or calibration sewing sequences can be included in the assigned assignment sewing parameter values.
  • Assignment of a plurality of assignment seam positions according to claim 2 may be made depending on a complexity of the desired seam result.
  • a greater density of assignment seam positions is assigned than in a region in which no such major change is to be expected.
  • Assignment of multiple assignment stitching parameter values to one and the same stitching seam position according to claim 3 enables complex seam processing.
  • assigning the various assignment-sewing parameter values it is possible to specifically control a change in various sewing parameters along the seam.
  • the change of the various parameters can be specified independently. For example, a crimp value may change greatly during the course of a seam, whereas a radius of curvature value may remain constant, for example, or vice versa.
  • a Nähumblenar according to claim 5 can be done by measuring the respective sewing distance, which is done via a count of stitches with a given stitch length or, for example, by optical means can.
  • the sewing reference point may coincide with a sewing start point from which the seam is sewn.
  • the sewing start point does not necessarily have to coincide with the sewing reference point.
  • the sewing path between the sewing reference point and the sewing start point can be done for example by entering the sewing start point in a machine control. This input can be done for example by tapping a point on a schematic representation of the seam on a display of the sewing machine.
  • a seam distribution according to claim 7 can be advantageously automated.
  • a basic assignment of a sewing parameter to the respective seam section then only has to take place for a basic size, wherein for clothing sizes other than the basic size, both the assignment and possibly a change in the size of the sewing parameter with respect to the respective seam section of a seam at another Clothing size is automated as the base size.
  • automatically changing the at least one sewing parameter when changing between two consecutive parameter seam sections defined by the preliminary splitting step results in a simplification of the sewing process.
  • the seam sections can be assigned predefined properties accordingly.
  • the respective assigned sewing parameter can be a degree value and / or a radius of arc value and / or a crimp value or another parameter, e.g. B. a thread tension.
  • Another object of the invention is to provide a sewing machine for carrying out the method according to the invention. This further object is achieved by a sewing machine with the features specified in claim 9.
  • the advantages of this sewing machine correspond to those which have already been explained above with reference to the control data generation method according to the invention and to the operating method according to the invention.
  • the respective current sewing position can be done with the detection module, for example, by counting seam stitches predetermined stitch length or alternatively via an optical detection of the actual seam position.
  • a memory module according to claim 10 leads to a clear assignment of sewing data. These can be changed, for example, by replacing a single removable storage medium.
  • a sewing machine 1 has an upper arm 2, a vertical stand 3 and a lower housing, which is commonly referred to as a base plate 4.
  • the base plate 4 has an upwardly projecting column 5, which is why the sewing machine 1 is also referred to as a column sewing machine.
  • the sewing machine 1 can also be designed as a flatbed machine.
  • a not shown arm shaft is rotatably mounted in the arm 2, a not shown arm shaft is rotatably mounted. The drive of the arm shaft and thus the essential sewing components of Sewing machine 1 via a mounted in the base plate 4 drive motor 6 and a belt drive not shown in detail in the drawing.
  • About the arm shaft and a crank mechanism is mounted vertically in the arm 2, not shown in the drawing needle bar vertically up and down driven, which carries a needle at its lower end.
  • a gripper is rotatably mounted in the column 5. Sewing parts to be sewn (compare the sewing material parts in the Fig. 2 and 3 ) are guided over a the needle column plate 9 forming the top of the column 5 and projecting laterally along the sewing direction over the column 5, through which the needle passes into the region of the gripper.
  • a lower feed dog assembly 10 and an upper feed dog assembly 11 serve.
  • These feed dog assemblies are explained in detail in the EP 1 897 984 A2 .
  • the sewing machine 1 can sewn fabric parts with curved edge contour sections along a connecting seam, wherein a radius of curvature of a feed arc, that is to say a sewing parameter, can be predetermined via the sewing material, which is likewise shown in FIG EP 1 897 984 A2 is described.
  • Fig. 2 shows the conditions before sewing two Nähguter the example of a jacket part 12 and a sleeve portion 13. This illustration is very strong and schematically corresponds to the illustration Fig. 3 of the DE 199 20 350 C1 ,
  • Edge contours 14, 15 of the two workpiece parts 12, 13 have edge contour sections bent along the seam to be sewn. Unlike the schematic representation after Fig. 2 can assume that the edge contour sections a1 / a2, b1 / b2, c / 1, c / 2, d1 / d2,... of these edge contours 14, 15 assigned to each other for sewing along the seam do not necessarily have the same radius of curvature, but in general different radii of curvature. These edge contour sections provide sections of the connecting seam, which are also referred to below as parameter seam sections.
  • a sequence of parameter seam sections is processed, which corresponds to the edge contour sections a1 / a2,.
  • These parameter seam sections have the lengths la1 / la2, lb1 / lb2, lc1 / lc2, ld1 / ld2,...
  • the parameter seam lengths la1 and la2, lb1 and lb2,... Of the workpiece parts 12, 13 that are associated with one another during sewing generally do not have the same lengths.
  • the parameter seam sections a2, b2,... Of the sleeve part 13 are regularly longer than the associated parameter seam sections a1, b1,... Of the jacket part 12.
  • the lengths la1, lb1, lc1, ld1,... Of the parameter seam sections of the jacket part 12 are generally different from one another. This also applies to the lengths la2, lb2,... Of the parameter seam sections of the sleeve part 13.
  • Fig. 3 shows the relationships of the seam sections in the jacket part 12 more in detail. Shown is the jacket part 12 in the region of a right sleeve hole 16.
  • the seam to the sleeve part is sewn along operating seam sections, of which in the Fig. 3 the operational seam sections b1, c1, e1, f1, h1 and i1 are highlighted.
  • the length of these operating seam sections varies depending on the individual Sewing technique of the operator.
  • the operational seam sections may be interfaced with the parameter seam sections discussed above in connection with FIG Fig. 2 have already been explained, coincide; however, this is not mandatory.
  • the operating seam sections are basically independent of the parameter seam sections.
  • the seam of the jacket part 12 with the sleeve part 13, not shown, begins at a seam starting point 17.
  • the seam is then from along a sewing direction 18 in the Fig. 3 Sewn in a clockwise direction.
  • the connecting seam is also subdivided into a sequence of parameter seam sections in the form of radius seam sections.
  • the radius seam sections are each assigned a radius of curvature value for the predetermined radius of the sewing machine 1 radius of the feed sheet. Shown in the Fig. 3 are exclusively those radius seam sections in which a radius of curvature value is associated with a feed curve with finite curvature. Radius seam sections, in which no feed sheet is specified, in which without sewing by an operator so with the sewing machine 1 a straight seam section is sewn are not shown.
  • radius seam sections 19, 20, 21 and 22 with a radius of curvature value for specifying a feed arc.
  • the radius of curvature value in the radius seam sections 19 and 22 results in a feed arc with a larger radius, that is to say with a small curvature.
  • the radius seam sections 20, 21 lying between the radius seam sections 19 and 22 have a radius of curvature value which results in a feed sheet with a smaller radius of curvature, that is to say a more curved or curved feed sheet.
  • the sequence of the arc radius values along the connecting seam is thus such that the arc radius value in a first region of the course of the connecting seam, namely up to the radius seam section 20, initially changes to values of "smaller (more strongly curved) feed sheet". From the radius seam section 21, there is a sequence of radius seam sections in which the radius of curvature value in the last region of the course of the connecting seam changes to values of "larger (less strongly curved) feed sheets”.
  • the seam portion of the seam between the seam start 17 and the radius seam portion 19 overlaps with the operation seam portions a1 and b1.
  • the radius seam portion 19 overlaps with the operation seam portions b1 and c1.
  • the radius seam portion 20 overlaps with the operation seam portions c1, d1, and e1.
  • the radius seam portion between the two radius seam portions 20 and 21, that is, the seam portion 23, overlaps with the operation seam portions e1 and f1.
  • the radius seam portion 21 overlaps with the operation seam portions f1, g1 and h1.
  • the radius seam portion 22 overlaps with the operation seam portions h1 and i1.
  • the radius seam portion between the radius seam portion 22 and the remainder of the seam to the seam beginning 17 overlaps with the operational seam portion i1 and the operational seam portion between the operational seam portion i1 and the seam beginning 17 where the then closed seam ends.
  • the sewing machine 1 has a control device 24, which in the Fig. 1 is shown schematically.
  • the controller 24 has a memory module 25 for the lengths of the radius seam portions 19, 20, 21, and 22 and the associated radius of curvature values.
  • the control device 24 also has a detection module 26 for detecting the respective current sewing position within the connecting seam. Such a detection can take place, for example, by counting the stitches along the connecting seam with a known stitch length. Alternatively, an optical detection of the actual seam position is possible, for example via a in the Fig. 1 indicated optical sensor 27th
  • a further memory unit 28 which may alternatively also be integrated into the memory module 25, serves to store the lengths (lx1, lx2) of the operating seam sections a1, b1,... And a2, b2,... In a corresponding memory unit Köselept stored, resulting from the ratios of the lengths of the sewing together suture sections a1 / a2, b1 / b2, ....
  • a feed sheet with the sewing machine 1 and the specification of such a shirring or crimping possible, as also in the EP 1 897 984 A2 explained.
  • the connecting seam is divided into the radius seam sections, that is, for example, into the radius seam sections 19, 20, 23, 21, 22.
  • arc radius values are assigned to the respective radius seam sections.
  • Fig. 3 results in an assignment of arc radius values "large radius of curvature, ie small curvature” to the radius seam sections 19 and 22 and "radius of curvature with a smaller radius value, ie greater curvature” to the radius seam sections 20 and 21.
  • the arc radius value "no feed sheet".
  • the corresponding data are stored in the memories 25, 28 of the control device 24.
  • the sewing material parts 12, 13 are sewn starting from the seam starting point 17 along the operating seam sections a1 / a2, b1 / b2, ...
  • a Sewing operating parameters converted, for example, the already mentioned Köselwert takes place with the aid of a changeover module 29 of the control device 24.
  • the workpiece parts 12, 13 are sewn with a predetermined starting radius of curvature value, in the present case with the radius of curvature value "no feed sheet".
  • a predetermined starting radius of curvature value in the present case with the radius of curvature value "no feed sheet".
  • the current The arc radius value automatically changes to the new arc radius value of this radius seam section. Since the change between the seam sections a1 / a2 and b1 / b2 takes place even before the beginning of the first radius seam section 19 along the connecting seam, no change takes place here between the radius of curvature values.
  • the radius of curvature values are so adapted to the edge contours of each sewing on the sewing piece, so usually the sleeve part 13, that with the help of each set feed arc the difference of the edge contours between the two workpieces 12, 13 in each case currently sewn operating seam section x1 / x2 is taken into account.
  • the splitting of the connecting seam into the radius seam sections can be effected as a function of a predetermined clothing size to be sewn and / or depending on the position of the seam starting point 17.
  • the sewing machine 1 further has a calculation module 30 for calculating sewing control data. These sewing control data can be assigned to the seam sections generated in advance by dividing a seam, which will be described later.
  • the sewing machine 1 is capable of executing a sewing program depending on the respective clothing size depending on the generated and calculated sewing control data, in the course of which a seam, e.g. B. the above-described seam, with the plurality of successive seam sections a1, b1, ... is sewn. Between the seam sections, a sewing parameter, such as a section grade, may change. Changing the sewing parameter can be automatic when changing between successive seam sections a1, b1, ... take place.
  • Table 1 below gives an example of a set of such sewing control data.
  • the connecting seam is subdivided into five parameter seam sections a1 / a2 to e1 / e2.
  • a subdivision into a different number of parameter seam sections is also possible, for example a subdivision into five to eleven seam sections.
  • Table 1a here shows section grading values for the various parameter seam sections a1 / a2, b1 / b2,... E1 / e2 and a total grading value.
  • the first line of Table 1a shows the section grade of the respective parameter seam section in relation to the length of this operating seam section.
  • the second line of Table 1a shows the section grade in relation to the total length of the joint, ie the sum of the lengths of all parameter seam sections a1 / a2 to e1 / e2.
  • these have exactly the relation of the associated lengths of the parameter seam sections to one another.
  • the sum of all section grade values gives the total grade value.
  • section grading values based on the length of the respective parameter seam section, are different from the overall grading value, which is related to the entire length of the seam.
  • Table 1b shows the clothing size Gx in the first column and the lengths of the respective parameter seam sections in the following columns a1 / a2 to e1 / e2.
  • Table 1b shows the total lengths of the seam, again depending on the size of the garment.
  • the last, right-hand column of Table 1b shows a growth in the size of the total seam length between successive clothing sizes Gx, ie the overall grading value.
  • the sewing control data according to Tables 1a and 1b are generated as follows: First, a basic size is selected, in the present case exemplarily the clothing size G4. In principle, any other clothing size could be selected as the basic size. Subsequently, the lengths of the respective parameter seam sections a1 / a2 to e1 / e2 are generated for this basic size G4, ie in the present example the length values 50 mm, 120 mm, 20 mm, 100 mm, 160 mm and 450 mm.
  • the total grading value is specified, in the present example the value 3.4%.
  • sewing control data and, in particular, the lengths of the parameter seam sections are generated for the other clothing sizes G1 to G3 and G5 to G10.
  • a calculation of the lengths of the respective parameter seam sections a1 / a2 to e1 / e2 is carried out, depending on the overall grading value 3.4%, the length being given in mm without decimal place.
  • the extension proportions, based on the length of the respective parameter seam sections are identical to the overall grading value, ie also 3.4%. Extend it Thus, all parameter seam section lengths by the same percentage proportions.
  • the calculation of all other sewing control data is carried out automatically.
  • the specification of the basic size data can be effected by a teach-in sewing or else by a data input, for example by a manual data input or reading-in of corresponding basic size data.
  • the overall grade value previous results of sewing control data generation at different reference clothing sizes can be used.
  • the section grading values of the parameter seam sections are equal to the proportion of the total gradation value corresponding to the length portions of the parameter seam sections along the entire length of the joint seam.
  • the respective parameter seam sections a1 / a2 to e1 / e2 can be assigned further sewing parameters, for example crimp values or fullness values, as already explained above, or also other sewing operating parameters.
  • the parameter seam sections of the various clothing sizes are also assigned arc radius values.
  • the above-discussed radius seam sections are another example of parameter seam sections.
  • the parameter seam sections for the arc radius values need not coincide in their positions and lengths with the parameter seam sections for the section grading values.
  • section grading values by which at least some of the seam sections a1 / a2 to e1 / e2 extend at the successive garment sizes Gx, Gx + 1.
  • these are the seam sections b1 / b2, d1 / d2 and e1 / e2.
  • the other parameter seam sections a1 / a2 and c1 / c2 do not extend with successive clothing sizes, ie they have the constant length 50 mm or 20 mm.
  • the parameter seam sections b1 / b2, d1 / d2 and e1 / e2 extend with extension portions which do not necessarily correspond to their proportion of the total length of the connection seam.
  • the total grade 3.4% is distributed to the parameter seam sections b1 / b2 (extension rate 1.05%), d1 / d2 (extension rate 0.85%) and e1 / e2 (extension rate 1.5%) such that due to these section grading values, the entire seam of a clothing size at successive clothing sizes Gx, Gx + 1, that is, for example, between the clothing sizes G4 and G5, respectively changes according to the overall grading value.
  • section grading values A different distribution of the section grading values than the distribution according to Tables 1 and 2 is possible in compliance with this boundary condition.
  • the overall grading value can only be achieved by extending a single parameter seam section.
  • certain section grading values may also have negative percentages which are then overcompensated by the section grading values of the other parameter seam sections.
  • the sewing control data can be generated independently of each other.
  • sleeve hole 16 is shown for a right sleeve part.
  • Independent parameter seam sections, grade values, crimp values, and radius of curvature values can be specified for the seam of the associated left sleeve portion.
  • the extension portions and the lengths of the parameter seam portions a1 / a2 to e1 / e2 are identical to those of the table 2b.
  • another grading value in the present example a further total grading value is determined, which in the example of Table 3 is 3.8%.
  • the total seam will be extended by this subsequent overall grading value for the subsequent, successive garment sizes that are greater than the selection garment size G4.
  • the section graduation values of the operating seam sections are used which have already been explained above in connection with Table 2a.
  • a teach-in sewing is performed on the clothing size G9.
  • the clothing size G9 in which teaching in the example described takes place, is greater than the selection clothing size G4.
  • a size other than the size G9 can also be used as a further teach-in clothing size, which differs from the basic size.
  • the lengths of the parameter seam sections a1 / a2 to e1 / e2 given in the row of table 3 in the row of table 3, ie the values 50 mm, 150 mm, 20 mm, 122 mm and 200 mm result.
  • the result is a total seam length L of 542 mm.
  • the total seam length difference between the total seam length is 450 mm at the selection garment size G4 and the further teach-in garment size G9 is now equally divided into total seam length changes at the intermediate garment sizes G5 to G8 as part of an automatic calculation. wherein approximately an extension of the total seam length is assumed in each case by the same additional overall grading value becomes. This results in the further total grade value of 3.8%. Accordingly, this results in the individual lengths of the parameter seam sections a1 / a2 to e1 / e2 for the intermediate sizes G5 to G8 and also for the size G10.
  • the default method for the sewing control data according to Table 3 takes into account that, starting from a certain clothing size, the operating seam sections of successive clothing sizes change more strongly than with smaller clothing sizes.
  • a further grade value is determined instead of the total grade value 3.4% previously used; in the example of Table 4, the further overall grade value is 3.1%.
  • the associated section grading values result from the values determined during teach-in sewing for the lengths of the individual parameter seam sections a1 / a2 to e1 / e2.
  • the further overall grade value is determined by a teach-in sewing at the clothing size G7, whereby the resulting increase in length of the total seam length of 493 mm in the case of the further teach-in clothing size G7 in comparison to the first selection Garment size G4 of 450 mm, the further total Gradierwert of 3.1%, by each of which increases the seam of the intermediate clothing sizes G5 and G6, by automatic calculation results.
  • the lengths of the parameter seam sections then change with respect to this further overall grading value with additional consideration of their section grading values.
  • the teach-in clothing size G7 simultaneously represents another selection clothing size. From the further selection clothing size G7, a further overall grade value is now determined, in the example of Table 4 the value 4.8%. This is done by another teach-in sewing at clothing size G10, giving a total seam length of 568 mm. Again, according to the lengths of the individual parameter seam sections a1 / a2 to e1 / e2, which result in the further teach-in sewing, corresponding selection grading values for these individual parameter seam sections are predefined with the aid of an automatic calculation. Again taking into account the determined section grading values, the seam section lengths are now extended with this further overall grading value.
  • sewing control data are first generated according to one of the variants described above. Subsequently, a garment size currently to be sewn is identified and then the two fabric pieces 12, 13 are sewn to the sewing control data of the identified garment size.
  • the control device 24 takes over the respective sewing control data of the identified clothing size from the stores 25 or 28 and controls the sewing machine in accordance with the sewing position detected on the detection module 26 on the connecting seam.
  • the change-over module 29 converts the sewing operating parameters corresponding to the detected sewing position and the sewing control data associated with this sewing position when changing between two successive parameter seam sections a1 / a2, b1 / b2,..., As explained above.
  • a Lisierband In one of the two workpieces, which are sewn by means of the above-described generation of sewing control data, it can also be act a Lisierband. This will be described below by way of example with reference to Fig. 4 explained.
  • a piece of sewing material 12 here is an outer clothing piece of sewing material shown and as Nähgutteil 13 the Lisierband.
  • a seam 32 between these two fabric pieces 12, 13 is arranged between two seam boundary points 17a, 17b, which represent a seam beginning or a seam end depending on the sewing direction.
  • the connecting seam 32 is sewn starting from the beginning of the seam 17a or starting from the seam beginning 17b.
  • a seam length between the seam boundary point 17a and the next adjacent allocation seam position P1 is 35% of the total length L of the joint seam 32.
  • a distance between the two joint joint positions P1, P2 is 40% of the total length L and a distance between the assignment Stitching position P2 and the other stitching seaming point 17b of the seam 32 adjacent to this stitching seam position P2 is 25% of the total length L.
  • sewing control data generated by a production method is used.
  • first a teach-in sewing in which the seam 32 is divided into a plurality of seam sections, which in the Fig. 4 are not shown.
  • the assignment seam positions P1, P2 are assigned on the seam 32. This assignment is based on the result of a preparatory analysis of a seam course optimized according to empirical values or a size graduation of courses of the seam 32 optimized for different values according to empirical values Clothing sizes.
  • the assignment seam positions P1, P2 are assigned independently of the division of the seam 32 into the majority of the seam sections, for example via a teach-in sewing.
  • the assignment seam positions P1, P2 are assigned assignment sewing parameter values.
  • the assigned sewing parameter values are sheet values and / or crimp values and / or grading values.
  • the further generation method will be described below with reference to the example of an assignment of grading values.
  • the grading values are again assigned to the assignment seam positions P1, P2 either on the basis of empirical values, that is to say based on experience, by how much the seam 32 changes between the seam ends 17a, 17b between successive clothing sizes in length, or by means of teach-in sewing processes in which the seam 32 is sewn for different clothing sizes.
  • the assignment seam position P1 may be assigned a grade 3% and the assignment seam position P2 may have a grade 4%.
  • the assignment sewing parameter value that is to say the degree value in the example described
  • the assignment sewing parameter value is assigned to the seam sections resulting in the division on which the respective assignment seam position P1, P2 lies. This is done depending on which assignment seam position P1, P2 is on the currently considered seam section.
  • the one seam section on which the assignment seam position P1 lies is obtained in the example Fig. 4 that is the degree value 3% and the one seam portion on which the assignment seam position P2 lies receives the grade 4%.
  • the seam 32 can now be automatically sewn as a sequence of the seam sections resulting from the division.
  • a starting point 17a at one end of the seam 32 or a starting point 17b at the other end of the seam 32 can be used as the sewing start point 17, so that the seam portions are arranged in the appropriate sequence a1, b1, c1 or in the order c1, b1 , a1 are sewn.
  • the seam sections may in turn be assigned different values of sewing parameters, for example different section grading values or different fullnesses.
  • the percentage aspect ratios of the lengths 1a1, 1b1, lc1 may also differ from the percentages given above for an example clothing size.
  • a first reference clothing size is selected, for example, the clothing size G4.
  • Sewing control data is then generated for this reference garment size G4.
  • the sewing control data includes the lengths la1, ... of the seam portions a1, ...
  • the sewing control data may be generated by a first teach-in sewing at the reference garment size G4, respectively Teach-in sewing stitched seam section lengths la1, ... are stored in the memory module 25.
  • Another reference garment size such as garment size G9
  • Sewing control data is then generated for the further reference clothing size G9.
  • These further sewing control data again include at least the lengths la1,... Of the seam sections of the further reference clothing size G9.
  • This generation of the further sewing control data at the further reference clothing size G9 can, in turn, be effected by a teach-in sewing in accordance with what has already been explained above in connection with the first reference clothing size G4.
  • the sewing control data in the case of the further reference clothing size G9 only the seam section lengths 1a1,... are generated and stored.
  • the further sewing parameters associated with the seam sections a1,... Remain unchanged during the generation of the further sewing control data in this further reference clothing size G9.
  • the sewing control data for the other clothing sizes are then calculated in the calculation module 30 and predefined for processing by the control device 24.
  • the other clothing sizes are those clothing sizes that differ from the reference clothing sizes G4, G9.
  • other sewing parameter values can also be predefined, for example parameter values for a curve radius value, for a crimp value or for a thread tension.
  • the specification of other sewing parameter values except the seam section lengths la1, ... is not mandatory, but the sewing parameter values can also be retained.
  • the seam section length lb1 for the reference garment size G4 is 120 mm and for the other reference garment size G9 is 150 mm
  • the seam section length lb1 for the intermediate garment sizes G5 to G8 is calculated by equidistant division, so For these intermediate garment sizes G5 to G8, the seam section lengths Ib1 to 126 mm, 132 mm, 138 mm and 144 mm result.
  • the sewing control data may be generated by, for example, teach-in sewing. If more than two reference clothing sizes are used, a corresponding increase in the number of supporting points in the calculation and presetting of the sewing control data for the other clothing sizes results in further improvements in accuracy in the sewing parameters for the further clothing sizes.
  • Fig. 5 shows in one too Fig. 3 similar representation of a jacket part 12, with a in the Fig. 5 not shown right sleeve to be sewn.
  • a total of three assignment seam positions P1, P2 and P3 are assigned.
  • a sewing reference point 33 which is at the same time a sewing start point 17 at the in the Fig. 5 schematically represents a length of the seam between the sewing reference point 33 and the assignment seam position P1 30% of a total length L of the seam.
  • a seam length between the assignment seam positions P1 and P2 is 15% of the total length L.
  • a seam length between the assignment seam positions P2 and P3 is 30% of the total length L.
  • a seam length Accordingly, between the assignment seam position P3 and the sewing reference point 33 is 25% of the total length L.
  • Each of the assignment seam positions P1 to P3 becomes as described above in connection with FIG Fig. 4 already explained, assigned a sewing parameter. This may be a section grade value, but may also be another sewing parameter, for example a multiply value or a curl value or a radius of curvature value.
  • the reference point 33 simultaneously represents the sewing start point 17.
  • the seam is divided into a plurality of seam sections during a teach-in sewing.
  • the assigned assignment seam positions in P1 to P3 are assigned corresponding sewing parameters.
  • the assigned sewing parameters are then assigned to the seam sections resulting from the division of the seam, on which there is at least one assignment seam position. This again takes place depending on which assignment seam position P1 to P3 lies on the currently considered seam section which has resulted during the division.
  • the assignment seam positions may be as described above in connection with FIG Fig. 4 already explained, also grading values are assigned. Starting from, for example, splitting the seam into a plurality of seam sections by a teach-in sewing at a basic clothing size, the seam section lengths for the other clothing sizes can then be calculated on the basis of the grading values assigned to the seam sections via the assignment seam positions P1 to P3 and when sewing the respective clothing size retrieved and used. In this case, those generating process steps can be used, which in connection with the Fig. 2 and Tables 1 to 4 have already been explained.
  • a change between the parameter seam sections a1 to d1 is detected during operation sewing, ie after the teach-in sewing, on the basis of a determination of the sewn sewing path, starting from the sewing reference point 33. This determination can be made for example by measuring the sewing distance.
  • the positions and lengths la1 to ld1 of the parameter seam sections a1 to d1 and the associated sewing parameters are stored in the memory module 25 of the sewing machine 1.
  • the measuring of the sewing path is again performed by the detection module 26.
  • the changeover takes place again with the changeover module 29.
  • Fig. 6 shows the situation for sewing the jacket part 12 with the left sleeve part. Here is sewn in the opposite direction of rotation as when sewing the right sleeve part.
  • Fig. 6 again shows the situation in which the sewing reference point 33 coincides with the sewing start point 17 in the preparatory teach-in sewing. It takes place after the assignment of the sewing parameters to the seam sections resulting from the teach-in division according to their position relative to the assignment seam positions P1 to P3 Fig. 6 , Sewing with automatic parameter change, as above in connection with the Fig. 5 already explained.
  • FIGS. 7 and 8 Based on FIGS. 7 and 8 is a variant of sewing the left sleeve with the jacket part 12 after Fig. 6 explained, in which a starting point 17 'with respect to the reference point 33 is shifted by 50% of the total length L of the seam.
  • the Nähparameter- change between the seam sections takes place when sewing, starting from the shifted starting point 17 ', based on a determination of a sewing distance between the sewing reference point 33 and the sewing start point 17.
  • This determination for example, by entering the sewing start point 17 means Tapping a point on a schematic representation of the seam on a display 34 of the sewing machine 1 (see. Fig. 1 ), which is in signal communication with the control device 24.
  • an assignment of the sewing parameter values assigned to the assignment seam positions P1 to P3 is made, depending on, which assignment seam position P 1 to P 3 lies on the seam section currently considered from the shifted sewing start position 17 '.
  • Fig. 9 clarified in one too Fig. 3 similar representation optimized Nähparameterdung along a seam for a right sleeve. Shown are according to empirical values along the seam parameters to be set around the edge contour 14.
  • a sewing direction is in the Fig. 9 Starting from the sewing start point 17 has in a first seam section about up to half the seam length in an outerwear front part 35 to a shoulder seam 36 a Khoffselwert a low, first value K1 which is indicated by a slightly undulating wavy line.
  • the sleeve along the seam has a low fullness compared to the fabric of the front part 35.
  • a second half of the seam between the sewing start point 17 and the shoulder seam 36 has a higher curl value K2, which is shown in FIG Fig. 9 is indicated by a stronger wavy line.
  • the crimp value can have the value 0 over a short seam section.
  • the crimp value again has the higher value K2, which corresponds to a greater fullness of the sleeve compared to the fabric of an outer clothing back piece 37.
  • the curl value changes from the higher value K2 to the lower value K1.
  • the crimp value is 0 in the area of an outer clothing side part 38 lying opposite the shoulder seam. This also applies to the region of the seam around the sewing start point 17.
  • a parameter variant is shown in which also in the area of the shoulder seam 36 there is a small feed arc, ie a corresponding radius of curvature value.
  • the optimum seam course for example, the distribution to Fig. 9
  • the information about the seam section lengths resulting from a first set of seam section lengths at a base size for all other clothing sizes, ie the grading values also belong to a complete set of sewing control data.
  • an assignment of the sewing parameters to the seam sections takes place during the seam division into the seam sections.
  • This alternative assignment and allocation method can be used, for example, in the case of radius of curvature or curling values or also in the case of thread tension values and / or other sewing parameters.
  • Fig. 10 shows a splitting of the seam into a total of three operating seam sections a1, b1 and c1. Since only three operating seam sections a1 to c1 are available, only a limited assignment of the sewing parameters to these operating seam sections a1 to c1 is possible. This is in the Fig. 10 analogous to the representation of Fig. 9 illustrated.
  • the operating seam portion a1 has about 20% of the total length L of the seam from the sewing start point 17.
  • the operational seam portion b1 has approximately 35% of the total length L of the seam and extends symmetrically to the shoulder seam 36, which lies approximately in the middle in the operating seam portion b1.
  • the operational seam portion c1 represents the remaining 45% of the length L of the seam.
  • Fig. 11 shows the subdivision of the seam, again starting from the sewing start point 17, in five operating seam sections a1, b1, c1, d1 and e1.
  • the working seam portion a1 has 5% of the length L of the entire seam.
  • the subsequent operational seam section b1 has 15% of the total length L of the seam.
  • the subsequent operational seam section c1 has 25% of the total length L of the seam.
  • the subsequent operational seam portion d1 has 15% of the total length of the seam and the last operational seam portion e1 has 40 % of the total length L of the seam.
  • the crimp value K 0 and it is sewn without feed sheet.
  • the crimp value is K1 and it is sewn with the sheet radius value "large feed sheet”.
  • the curling value is K2, and it is sewn with the sheet radius value "small feed sheet”.
  • the crimp value is again K1 and it is in turn sewn with the sheet radius value "large feed sheet”.
  • the crimp value K 0 and it is sewn without feed sheet.
  • the shoulder seam 36 again lies approximately in the center.
  • the operational seam portions b1 and d1 are approximately symmetrical with each other.
  • Fig. 12 shows a division of the seam in a total of seven operating seam sections a1, b1, c1, d1, e1, f1 and g1. Correspondingly finer a distribution of the sewing parameters can take place on these operating seam sections a1 to g1, as again in the Fig. 12 illustrated.
  • the seam section lengths of the operational seam sections a1 to g1 are 5%, 20%, 10%, 5%, 10%, 10% and 40% of the total length L of the seam.
  • the operating seam section d1 lies again in the region of the shoulder seam 36.
  • the crimp value K 0.
  • the crimp value is K1.
  • the crimp value is K2.
  • the sheet radius value "large feed sheet” is sewn.
  • the sheet radius value "small feed sheet” is sewn.
  • the subdivision of the entire seam into the operating seam sections is freely specified by the operator.
  • the sewing control data must be specified at each division of the seam in the seam sections so that they match an optimized parameter distribution according to the Fig. 9 as close as possible.
  • Table 5 shows grading values assigned to the operating seam sections according to this method.
  • Table 5 seam section Fig. 10 Fig. 11 Fig. 12 a1 0 0 0 b1 GW1 + GW2 0 0 c1 GW3 GW1 + GW2 LV1 d1 --- GW3 0 e1 --- 0 GW2 f1 --- --- 0 g1 --- --- GW3
  • This assignment of the grading values GW thus takes into account which assignment seam positions P1 to P3 on the respectively currently considered seam section a1 ... in the partitions according to the 10 to 12 lies.
  • the assignment seam position P1 is on the seam portion c1.
  • the assignment seam position P2 is on the seam portion e1 and the assignment seam position P3 is on the seam portion g1.
  • the grading values GW1, GW2, GW3 are assigned as shown in the column " Fig. 12
  • other sewing parameters for example the radius of curvature values or the crimping values, can also be assigned instead of the grading values GW.
  • the parameter seam sections 20 and 21 are combined to form a combined seam section to which the arc radius value "small feed arc" is completely assigned. From the sewing starting point 17 is sewn with the radius of curvature value, which is the first parameter seam section, so the first radius seam section 19, assigned, so with the radius of curvature value "large feed sheet”.
  • the radius of curvature value is changed over to the radius of curvature value assigned to this new parameter seam section.
  • the methods described above are used especially when sewing sleeves into a body outer garment piece without pre-crimping and in particular when producing jackets.

Landscapes

  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Computer Hardware Design (AREA)
  • Microelectronics & Electronic Packaging (AREA)
  • Mechanical Engineering (AREA)
  • Sewing Machines And Sewing (AREA)
EP14164669.5A 2013-05-07 2014-04-15 Procédé de production de données de commande de couture Active EP2801648B1 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
DE102013208409.9A DE102013208409A1 (de) 2013-05-07 2013-05-07 Erzeugungsverfahren zur Erzeugung von Näh-Steuerungsdaten

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EP2801648B1 EP2801648B1 (fr) 2016-03-02

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JP (1) JP6336815B2 (fr)
KR (1) KR102057955B1 (fr)
CN (1) CN104141203B (fr)
DE (1) DE102013208409A1 (fr)
TW (1) TWI625438B (fr)

Citations (6)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
EP0512145A1 (fr) * 1991-05-10 1992-11-11 Dürkopp Adler Aktiengesellschaft Procédé pour exécuter une couture changeant de direction
JPH0724163A (ja) * 1993-07-14 1995-01-27 Brother Ind Ltd 拡大縮小機能を備えた加工データ作成装置
DE19920350C1 (de) 1999-05-04 2000-11-30 Duerkopp Adler Ag Verfahren zum Betrieb einer Nähmaschine zum Verbinden eines ersten Nähgutteils mit einem zweiten Nähgutteil unter Einarbeitung von Mehrweite
DE102007003721A1 (de) * 2006-01-27 2007-08-16 Juki Corp., Chofu Differentialvorschub-Nähmaschine
EP1897984A2 (fr) 2006-09-08 2008-03-12 Dürkopp Adler Aktiengesellschaft Machine à coudre
US20080210147A1 (en) * 2007-03-01 2008-09-04 Brother Kogyo Kabushiki Kaisha Sewing machine and computer-readable recording medium storing sewing machine control program

Family Cites Families (9)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
JPS5955974U (ja) * 1982-10-07 1984-04-12 ブラザー工業株式会社 ミシン
JPH07106274B1 (fr) 1984-10-25 1995-11-15
JPH0240350B2 (ja) * 1986-04-28 1990-09-11 Juki Kk Mishinnookuriryoseigyohohotosonosochi
JPH01236088A (ja) * 1987-10-31 1989-09-20 Juki Corp ミシンの布送り制御装置
JPH0724162A (ja) * 1993-07-14 1995-01-27 Brother Ind Ltd 縫製データ作成装置
US5642681A (en) * 1994-09-23 1997-07-01 Union Special Corp. Sewing sleeves on shirt bodies
JP2777080B2 (ja) * 1995-03-08 1998-07-16 ジューキ株式会社 いせ込みミシン
JP4364115B2 (ja) * 2004-12-03 2009-11-11 Ｊｕｋｉ株式会社 ミシン
JP2006158642A (ja) * 2004-12-07 2006-06-22 Juki Corp 差動送りミシン

Patent Citations (6)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
EP0512145A1 (fr) * 1991-05-10 1992-11-11 Dürkopp Adler Aktiengesellschaft Procédé pour exécuter une couture changeant de direction
JPH0724163A (ja) * 1993-07-14 1995-01-27 Brother Ind Ltd 拡大縮小機能を備えた加工データ作成装置
DE19920350C1 (de) 1999-05-04 2000-11-30 Duerkopp Adler Ag Verfahren zum Betrieb einer Nähmaschine zum Verbinden eines ersten Nähgutteils mit einem zweiten Nähgutteil unter Einarbeitung von Mehrweite
DE102007003721A1 (de) * 2006-01-27 2007-08-16 Juki Corp., Chofu Differentialvorschub-Nähmaschine
EP1897984A2 (fr) 2006-09-08 2008-03-12 Dürkopp Adler Aktiengesellschaft Machine à coudre
US20080210147A1 (en) * 2007-03-01 2008-09-04 Brother Kogyo Kabushiki Kaisha Sewing machine and computer-readable recording medium storing sewing machine control program

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JP2014217752A (ja) 2014-11-20
KR102057955B1 (ko) 2019-12-20
EP2801648B1 (fr) 2016-03-02
KR20140132284A (ko) 2014-11-17
CN104141203A (zh) 2014-11-12
JP6336815B2 (ja) 2018-06-06
CN104141203B (zh) 2018-02-23
TWI625438B (zh) 2018-06-01
DE102013208409A1 (de) 2014-11-13
TW201510313A (zh) 2015-03-16

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