EP2801647B1 - Procédé de génération de données de commande de couture pour le traitement d'un programme de couture en fonction d'une taille d'habillement - Google Patents

Procédé de génération de données de commande de couture pour le traitement d'un programme de couture en fonction d'une taille d'habillement Download PDF

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EP2801647B1
EP2801647B1 EP14164204.1A EP14164204A EP2801647B1 EP 2801647 B1 EP2801647 B1 EP 2801647B1 EP 14164204 A EP14164204 A EP 14164204A EP 2801647 B1 EP2801647 B1 EP 2801647B1
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Prior art keywords
seam
sewing
garment
control data
sections
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German (de)
English (en)
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EP2801647A1 (fr
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Tobias Wildberg
Markus Bachmann
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Duerkopp Adler AG
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Duerkopp Adler AG
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    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D05—SEWING; EMBROIDERING; TUFTING
    • D05B—SEWING
    • D05B19/00—Programme-controlled sewing machines
    • D05B19/02—Sewing machines having electronic memory or microprocessor control unit
    • D05B19/04—Sewing machines having electronic memory or microprocessor control unit characterised by memory aspects
    • D05B19/10—Arrangements for selecting combinations of stitch or pattern data from memory ; Handling data in order to control stitch format, e.g. size, direction, mirror image

Definitions

  • the invention relates to a method for generating sewing control data for executing a garment size dependent sewing program. Further, the invention relates to an operating method for a sewing machine having such a production method and a sewing machine for carrying out such an operating method.
  • a method for generating sewing control data is known from US 5,156,237 DE 199 20 350 C1 as well as from the DE 10 2007 003 721 A1 ,
  • the seam section length is changed in each case between the seam sections of different clothing sizes by a constant absolute size difference.
  • An example of this is the Fig. 14 of the DE 10 2007 003 721 A1 where in the column 71 such absolutely constant differences in length are indicated. These differences in length are referred to as "proportional correction data”.
  • Corresponding constant length differences, denoted there as grading values GR are shown in the table Fig. 5 of the DE 199 20 350 C1 specified.
  • the DE 34 90 775 C2 describes a device for differential feed control in a sewing machine.
  • a single grading value namely a total grading value, which specifies the value of the entire seam at successive clothing sizes
  • the overall grade value is not an absolutely constant length difference, but a true proportionality factor, so that for larger garment sizes where the entire seam is longer, there is also an absolutely larger seam extension than for smaller apparel sizes.
  • section grading values or of extension parts by which the individual seam sections extend, an unambiguous assignment of the respective seam section extension results.
  • the length of each seam section can be specified for each size of clothing using the extension parts.
  • the section grading values are proportionally the same as the lengths of the seam sections along the length of the entire seam. In this case, all seam sections lengthen proportionally by the total grade.
  • deviating section grading values can also be specified. In this case, the boundary condition must be complied with that the extension of the entire seam corresponds to the total grading value.
  • the section grading values may be given in proportion to the total grading value, which may then correspond to the value "100%".
  • the overall grading value and, on the other hand, a proportional distribution can be changed to the section grading values.
  • the distribution of the total grading value to the section grading values may be changed from a distribution key 30% / 30% / 40% to 40% / 10% / 50%. So it's one absolute or even a relative specification of the grading values possible.
  • the generation of the sewing control data is carried out automatically after specification of the basic size data and the total grading value.
  • Manual input of sewing control data for example manual input of size-dependent seam section lengths, can be dispensed with, which relieves the operator.
  • the production method may be configured so that it is no longer necessary for the operator to input grading data to prepare for sewing.
  • the sewing control data is ideally generated completely in the background, so that the operator does not have to deal with grading values except for a size selection of the garment size to be sewn.
  • a specification of the basic size data that is to say a specification in particular of the lengths of the seam sections, can be effected by a teach-in sewing or by a data input. Data entry can be done manually or by reading in digital data. Clothing sizes may be consistent with clothing sizes. Sewing control data can be made independently for symmetrical garments for both sides. For example, for the two sleeves of men's or women's outerwear so independent sewing control data can be generated. The production process may also be used in conjunction with letting or pre-crimping.
  • a ribbon is an example of one of the sewing material to be sewn.
  • the seam sections of the two workpiece parts, which are sewn together, may have the same or different lengths.
  • L the lengths of the seam sections of the Lisierbandes are each smaller than the associated seam sections of the workpiece.
  • the total grading value can be specified as empirical value.
  • preparatory sewing processes and / or calibration sewing sequences can be included in the predetermined overall grading value.
  • the entire range of the different clothing sizes can be subdivided into two size ranges for which different grading values apply.
  • the further grade value may be a further total grade value or one or more slice grade values.
  • the further grading value may differ from the first predetermined overall grading value.
  • the further grading value acts such that, depending on this further grading value, the seam sections are correspondingly shortened for successive garment sizes which are smaller than the selection garment size.
  • the production method can be based on a basic size, ie in the direction of larger clothing sizes or in the direction of smaller clothing sizes.
  • the seam section lengths for the various clothing sizes can be adapted even more precisely to default values.
  • preliminary sewing processes and / or calibration sewing sequences can be included in their specification, as already explained above in connection with the overall grading value.
  • a real model form can be adapted in this way ever closer to an ideal model.
  • the at least one choice garment size for which the grade value is determined may be a garment size that represents neither the largest nor the smallest of the garment sizes to be considered.
  • interpolation is therefore not carried out between the smallest and the largest clothing size, but instead at least one support point is used, which lies between the smallest and the largest clothing size.
  • Teach-in sewing for determining the further degree value leads to a further advantageous relief of the operator, since the generation method can be designed so that no grading values have to be specified manually.
  • the seam section lengths for the teach-in clothing size result in an automated process.
  • a third grade can be determined, which in turn may be a further total grade or one or more section grading.
  • the range of possible clothing sizes may then be divided into three ranges of clothing sizes, in which total three different grading values can be used.
  • the further, third grading value applies to clothing sizes which are smaller than the further selection clothing size, in which case the further grading value prescribes a shortening of the seam sections.
  • more than three graduation values can also be predetermined, ie the range of possible clothing sizes can accordingly be divided into more than three ranges of clothing sizes in which different grading values can be used.
  • Different section grading values according to claim 10 allow further adjustment of the changes in seam section lengths over the garment sizes, which is even more adaptable to default values.
  • these can be generated without requiring the specification of a total grading value.
  • the operator then gets by completely without data input.
  • the sewing control data can then exclusively, based on the control data generated for the at least two reference clothing sizes, by internal calculation also for the other clothing sizes. In turn, this internal calculation can be used for data obtained by preparatory sewing processes and / or calibration sewing sequences, as has already been explained above in connection with the overall grading value and the further grading value. If more than two reference clothing sizes are used which are selected and for which the sewing control data are first generated, a corresponding increase in the number of support points results in further improvements in accuracy in the further clothing sizes lying between the reference clothing sizes.
  • Teach-in sewing leads to particularly easy generation of the sewing control data for the reference clothing sizes.
  • a detection of the respective current sewing position within the seam to be sewn between the two workpieces can be done by counting stitches of predetermined length or alternatively via an optical detection of the actual seam position.
  • a sewing machine 1 has an upper arm 2, a vertical stand 3 and a lower housing, which is commonly referred to as a base plate 4.
  • the base plate 4 has an upwardly projecting column 5, which is why the sewing machine 1 is also referred to as a column sewing machine.
  • the sewing machine 1 can also be designed as a flat bed machine.
  • a not shown arm shaft is rotatably mounted in the arm 2, a not shown in the drawing.
  • the drive of the arm shaft and thus the essential sewing components of the sewing machine 1 via a mounted in the base plate 4 drive motor 6 and a belt drive not shown in the drawing.
  • About the arm shaft and a crank mechanism is mounted vertically in the arm 2, not shown in the drawing needle bar vertically up and down driven, which carries a needle at its lower end. An approximate position of the needle bar is in the Fig.
  • a gripper is rotatably mounted in the column 5. Sewing parts to be sewn (compare the sewing material parts in the Fig. 2 and 3 ) are guided over a the needle column plate 9 forming the top of the column 5 and projecting laterally along the sewing direction over the column 5, through which the needle passes into the region of the gripper.
  • a lower feed dog assembly 10 and an upper feed dog assembly 11 serve.
  • These feed dog assemblies are explained in detail in the EP 1 897 984 A2 .
  • the sewing machine 1 can sewn fabric parts with curved edge contour sections along a connecting seam, wherein a radius of curvature of a feed arc, that is to say a sewing parameter, can be predetermined via the sewing material, which is likewise shown in FIG EP 1 897 984 A2 is described.
  • Fig. 2 shows the conditions before sewing two Nähguter the example of a jacket part 12 and a sleeve part 13. This illustration is very strongly schematic and corresponds to the illustration Fig. 3 of the DE 199 20 350 C1 ,
  • Edge contours 14, 15 of the two workpiece parts 12, 13 have edge contour sections bent along the seam to be sewn. Unlike the schematic representation after Fig. 2 can assume that the edge contour sections a1 / a2, b1 / b2, c / 1, c / 2, d1 / d2,... of these edge contours 14, 15 assigned to each other for sewing along the seam do not necessarily have the same radius of curvature, but in general different radii of curvature. These edge contour sections provide sections of the connecting seam, which are also referred to below as parameter seam sections.
  • a sequence of parameter seam sections is processed, which corresponds to the edge contour sections a1 / a2,.
  • These parameter seam sections have the lengths la1 / la2, lb1 / lb2, lc1 / lc2, ld1 / ld2,...
  • the parameter seam lengths la1 and la2, lb1 and lb2,... Of the workpiece parts 12, 13 that are associated with one another during sewing generally do not have the same lengths.
  • the parameter seam sections a2, b2,... Of the sleeve part 13 are regularly longer than the associated parameter seam sections a1, b1,... Of the jacket part 12.
  • the lengths la1, lb1, lc1, ld1,... Of the parameter seam sections of the jacket part 12 are generally different from one another. This also applies to the lengths la2, lb2,... Of the parameter seam sections of the sleeve part 13.
  • Fig. 3 shows the relationships of the seam sections in the jacket part 12 more in detail. Shown is the jacket part 12 in the region of a right sleeve hole 16. The seam to the sleeve part, not shown is sewn along operating seam sections, of which in the Fig. 3 the operational seam sections b1, c1, e1, f1, h1 and i1 are highlighted. The length of these operating seam sections varies depending on the individual sewing technique of the operator.
  • the operational seam sections may be interfaced with the parameter seam sections discussed above in connection with FIG Fig. 2 have already been explained, coincide; however, this is not mandatory.
  • the operating seam sections are basically independent of the parameter seam sections.
  • the seam of the jacket part 12 with the sleeve part 13, not shown, begins at a seam starting point 17.
  • the seam is then from along a sewing direction 18 in the Fig. 3 Sewn in a clockwise direction.
  • the connecting seam is also subdivided into a sequence of parameter seam sections in the form of radius seam sections.
  • the radius seam sections are each assigned a radius of curvature value for the predetermined radius of the sewing machine 1 radius of the feed sheet. Shown in the Fig. 3 are exclusively those radius seam sections in which a radius of curvature value is associated with a feed curve with finite curvature. Radius seam sections, in which no feed sheet is specified, in which without sewing by an operator so with the sewing machine 1 a straight seam section is sewn are not shown.
  • radius seam sections 19, 20, 21 and 22 with a radius of curvature value for specifying a feed arc.
  • the radius of curvature value in the radius seam sections 19 and 22 results in a feed arc with a larger radius, that is to say with a small curvature.
  • the between the radius seam sections 19 and 22 lying radius seam sections 20, 21 have a radius of curvature value, which results in a feed sheet with a smaller radius of curvature, ie a more curved or curved feed sheet.
  • the sequence of the arc radius values along the connecting seam is thus such that the arc radius value in a first region of the course of the connecting seam, namely up to the radius seam section 20, initially changes to values of "smaller (more strongly curved) feed sheet". From the radius seam section 21, there is a sequence of radius seam sections in which the radius of curvature value in the last region of the course of the connecting seam changes to values of "larger (less strongly curved) feed sheets”.
  • the seam portion of the seam between the seam start 17 and the radius seam portion 19 overlaps with the operation seam portions a1 and b1.
  • the radius seam portion 19 overlaps with the operation seam portions b1 and c1.
  • the radius seam portion 20 overlaps with the operation seam portions c1, d1, and e1.
  • the radius seam portion between the two radius seam portions 20 and 21, that is, the seam portion 23, overlaps with the operation seam portions e1 and f1.
  • the radius seam portion 21 overlaps with the operation seam portions f1, g1 and h1.
  • the radius seam portion 22 overlaps with the operation seam portions h1 and i1.
  • the radius seam portion between the radius seam portion 22 and the remainder of the seam to the seam beginning 17 overlaps with the operational seam portion i1 and the operational seam portion the operating seam portion i1 and the seam beginning 17 at which the then closed connection seam ends.
  • the sewing machine 1 has a control device 24, which in the Fig. 1 is shown schematically.
  • the controller 24 has a memory module 25 for the lengths of the radius seam portions 19, 20, 21, and 22 and the associated radius of curvature values.
  • the control device 24 also has a detection module 26 for detecting the respective current sewing position within the connecting seam. Such a detection can take place, for example, by counting the stitches along the connecting seam with a known stitch length. Alternatively, an optical detection of the actual seam position is possible, for example via a in the Fig. 1 indicated optical sensor 27th
  • a further memory unit 28 which may alternatively also be integrated into the memory module 25, serves to store the lengths (lx1, lx2) of the operating seam sections a1, b1,... And a2, b2,... In a corresponding memory unit Köselept stored, resulting from the ratios of the lengths of the sewing together suture sections a1 / a2, b1 / b2, ....
  • a feed sheet with the sewing machine 1 and the specification of such a shirring or crimping possible, as also in the EP 1 897 984 A2 explained.
  • the connecting seam is divided into the radius seam sections, that is, for example, into the radius seam sections 19, 20, 23, 21, 22.
  • arc radius values are assigned to the respective radius seam sections.
  • Fig. 3 results in an assignment of arc radius values "large radius of curvature, so small Curvature "to the radius seam sections 19 and 22 and” radius of curvature with a smaller radius value, ie greater curvature "to the radius seam sections 20 and 21.
  • no feed sheet "is assigned corresponding data are stored in the memories 25, 28 of the controller 24.
  • the sewing material parts 12, 13 are sewn starting from the seam starting point 17 along the operating seam sections a1 / a2, b1 / b2, ...
  • a Sewing operating parameters converted, for example, the already mentioned Köselwert takes place with the aid of a changeover module 29 of the control device 24.
  • the workpiece parts 12, 13 are sewn with a predetermined starting radius of curvature value, in the present case with the radius of curvature value "no feed sheet".
  • a predetermined starting radius of curvature value in the present case with the radius of curvature value "no feed sheet".
  • the current The arc radius value automatically changes to the new arc radius value of this radius seam section. Since the change between the seam sections a1 / a2 and b1 / b2 takes place even before the beginning of the first radius seam section 19 along the connecting seam, no change takes place here between the radius of curvature values.
  • the radius of curvature values are so adapted to the edge contours of each sewing on the sewing piece, so usually the sleeve part 13, that with the help of each set feed arc the difference of the edge contours between the two workpieces 12, 13 in each case currently sewn operating seam section x1 / x2 is taken into account.
  • the splitting of the connecting seam into the radius seam sections can be effected as a function of a predetermined clothing size to be sewn and / or depending on the position of the seam starting point 17.
  • the sewing machine 1 further has a calculation module 30 for calculating sewing control data. These sewing control data can be assigned to the seam sections generated in advance by dividing a seam, which will be described later.
  • the sewing machine 1 is capable of processing a sewing program depending on the respective clothing size depending on the generated and calculated sewing control data, in the course of which a seam, z. B. the above-described seam, with the plurality of successive seam sections a1, b1, ... is sewn. Between the seam sections, a sewing parameter, such as a section grade, may change. A changeover of the sewing parameter can take place automatically when changing between successive seam sections a1, b1,.
  • Table 1 below gives an example of a set of such sewing control data.
  • the connecting seam is subdivided into five parameter seam sections a1 / a2 to e1 / e2.
  • a subdivision into a different number of parameter seam sections is also possible, for example a subdivision into five to eleven seam sections.
  • Table 1a here shows section grading values for the various parameter seam sections a1 / a2, b1 / b2,... E1 / e2 and a total grading value.
  • the first line of Table 1a shows the section grade of the respective parameter seam section in relation to the length of this operating seam section.
  • the second line of Table 1a shows the section grade in relation to the total length of the joint, ie the sum of the lengths of all parameter seam sections a1 / a2 to e1 / e2.
  • these have exactly the relation of the associated lengths of the parameter seam sections to one another.
  • the sum of all section grade values gives the total grade value.
  • section grading values based on the length of the respective parameter seam section, are different from the overall grading value, which is related to the entire length of the seam.
  • Table 1b shows the clothing size Gx in the first column and the lengths of the respective parameter seam portions a1 / a2 to e1 / e2 in the following columns.
  • Table 1b shows the total lengths of the seam, again depending on the size of the garment.
  • the last, right-hand column of Table 1b shows a growth in the size of the total seam length between successive clothing sizes Gx, ie the overall grading value.
  • the sewing control data according to Tables 1a and 1b are generated as follows: First, a basic size is selected, in the present case exemplarily the clothing size G4. In principle, any other clothing size could be selected as the basic size. Subsequently, the lengths of the respective parameter seam sections a1 / a2 to e1 / e2 are generated for this basic size G4, ie in the present example the length values 50 mm, 120 mm, 20 mm, 100 mm, 160 mm and 450 mm.
  • the total grading value is specified, in the present example the value 3.4%.
  • sewing control data and, in particular, the lengths of the parameter seam sections are generated for the other clothing sizes G1 to G3 and G5 to G10.
  • the overall grading value 3.4% depending on the overall grading value 3.4%, a calculation of the lengths of the respective parameter seam sections a1 / a2 to e1 / e2 performed, with the length specified in mm without decimal place.
  • the extension proportions, based on the length of the respective parameter seam sections are identical to the overall grading value, ie also 3.4%. All parameter seam section lengths therefore extend by the same percentage.
  • the calculation of all other sewing control data is carried out automatically.
  • the specification of the basic size data can be effected by a teach-in sewing or also by a data input, for example by a manual data input or reading in of corresponding basic size data.
  • the overall grade value previous results of sewing control data generation at different reference clothing sizes can be used.
  • the section grading values of the parameter seam sections are equal to the proportion of the total gradation value corresponding to the length portions of the parameter seam sections along the entire length of the joint seam.
  • the respective parameter seam sections a1 / a2 to e1 / e2 can be assigned further sewing parameters, for example crimp values or fullness values, as already explained above, or also other sewing operating parameters.
  • the parameter seam sections of the various clothing sizes are also assigned arc radius values.
  • the above-discussed radius seam sections are another example of parameter seam sections.
  • the parameter seam sections for the arc radius values must be given as to their positions and lengths do not match the parameter seam sections for the section grading values.
  • section grading values by which at least some of the seam sections a1 / a2 to e1 / e2 extend at the successive garment sizes Gx, Gx + 1.
  • these are the seam sections b1 / b2, d1 / d2 and e1 / e2.
  • the other parameter seam sections a1 / a2 and c1 / c2 do not extend with successive clothing sizes, ie they have the constant length 50 mm or 20 mm.
  • the parameter seam sections b1 / b2, d1 / d2 and e1 / e2 extend with extension portions that do not necessarily correspond to their proportion of the total length of the connection seam.
  • the total grade 3.4% is distributed to the parameter seam sections b1 / b2 (extension rate 1.05%), d1 / d2 (extension rate 0.85%) and e1 / e2 (extension rate 1.5%) such that Due to these section grading values, the total seam of a clothing size at successive clothing sizes Gx, Gx + 1, that is, for example, between the clothing sizes G4 and G5, respectively changes according to the overall grading value.
  • section grading values A different distribution of the section grading values than the distribution according to Tables 1 and 2 is possible in compliance with this boundary condition.
  • the overall grading value can only be achieved by extending a single parameter seam section.
  • certain section grading values may also have negative percentages which are then overcompensated by the section grading values of the other parameter seam sections.
  • the sewing control data can be generated independently of each other.
  • sleeve hole 16 is shown for a right sleeve part.
  • Independent parameter seam sections, grade values, crimp values, and radius of curvature values can be specified for the seam of the associated left sleeve portion.
  • the extension portions and the lengths of the parameter seam portions a1 / a2 to e1 / e2 are identical to those of the table 2b.
  • another grading value in the present example a further total grading value is determined, which in the example of Table 3 is 3.8%.
  • the total seam will be extended by this subsequent overall grading value for the subsequent, successive garment sizes that are greater than the selection garment size G4.
  • the section graduation values of the operating seam sections are used which have already been explained above in connection with Table 2a.
  • a teach-in sewing is performed on the clothing size G9.
  • the clothing size G9 in which teaching in the example described takes place, is greater than the selection clothing size G4.
  • a size other than the size G9 can also be used as a further teach-in clothing size, which differs from the basic size.
  • the lengths of the parameter seam sections a1 / a2 to e1 / e2 given in the row of table 3 in the row of table 3, ie the values 50 mm, 150 mm, 20 mm, 122 mm and 200 mm result.
  • the result is a total seam length L of 542 mm.
  • the total seam length difference between the total seam length is 450 mm at the selection garment size G4 and the further teach-in clothing size G9 is now equally divided as part of an automatic calculation in total seam length changes in the intermediate clothing sizes G5 to G8, assuming approximately an extension of the total seam length by the same further total Gradierwert becomes. This results in the further total grade value of 3.8%. Accordingly, this results in the individual lengths of the parameter seam sections a1 / a2 to e1 / e2 for the intermediate sizes G5 to G8 and also for the size G10.
  • the default method for the sewing control data according to Table 3 takes into account that, starting from a certain clothing size, the operating seam sections of successive clothing sizes change more strongly than with smaller clothing sizes.
  • a further grade value is determined instead of the total grade value 3.4% previously used; in the example of Table 4, the further overall grade value is 3.1%.
  • the associated section grading values result from the values determined during teach-in sewing for the lengths of the individual parameter seam sections a1 / a2 to e1 / e2.
  • the further overall grade value is determined by a teach-in sewing at the clothing size G7, whereby the resulting increase in length of the total seam length of 493 mm in the case of the further teach-in clothing size G7 in comparison to the first selection Garment size G4 of 450 mm, the further overall grade of 3.1%, around each of which seam the intermediate clothing sizes G5 and G6 extended, resulting in automatic invoice.
  • the lengths of the parameter seam sections then change with respect to this further overall grading value with additional consideration of their section grading values.
  • the teach-in clothing size G7 simultaneously represents another selection clothing size. From the further selection clothing size G7, a further overall grade value is now determined, in the example of Table 4 the value 4.8%. This is done by another teach-in sewing at clothing size G10, giving a total seam length of 568 mm. Again, according to the lengths of the individual parameter seam sections a1 / a2 to e1 / e2, which result in the further teach-in sewing, corresponding selection grading values for these individual parameter seam sections are predefined with the aid of an automatic calculation. Again taking into account the determined section grading values, the seam section lengths are now extended with this further overall grading value.
  • sewing control data are first generated according to one of the variants described above. Subsequently, a garment size currently to be sewn is identified and then the two fabric pieces 12, 13 are sewn to the sewing control data of the identified garment size.
  • the control device 24 takes over the respective sewing control data of the identified clothing size from the stores 25 or 28 and controls the sewing machine in accordance with the sewing position detected on the detection module 26 on the connecting seam.
  • the changeover module 29 sets the sewing operation parameters in accordance with the detected sewing position and the sewing control data associated with this sewing position when changing between two successive parameter seam sections a1 / a2, b1 / b2, ..., as explained above.
  • the two workpieces which are sewn by means of the above-described generation of Nähberichtung data, it may also be a Lisierband.
  • a piece of sewing material 12 here is an outer clothing piece of sewing material shown and as Nähgutteil 13 the Lisierband.
  • a seam 32 between these two fabric pieces 12, 13 is arranged between two seam boundary points 17a, 17b, which represent a seam beginning or a seam end depending on the sewing direction.
  • the connecting seam 32 is sewn starting from the beginning of the seam 17a or starting from the seam beginning 17b.
  • a seam length between the seam boundary point 17a and the next adjacent allocation seam position P1 is 35% of the total length L of the joint seam 32.
  • a distance between the two joint joint positions P1, P2 is 40% of the total length L and a distance between the assignment Stitching position P2 and the other stitching seaming point 17b of the seam 32 adjacent to this stitching seam position P2 is 25% of the total length L.
  • sewing control data generated by a production method is used.
  • a teach-in sewing in which the seam 32 is divided into a plurality of seam sections, which in the Fig. 4 not shown are.
  • the assignment seam positions P1, P2 are assigned on the seam 32. This allocation is based on the result of a preparatory analysis of a seam course optimized according to empirical values or a size graduation of courses of the seam 32 optimized for different clothing sizes, optimized according to empirical values.
  • the assignment seam positions P1, P2 are assigned independently of the division of the seam 32 into the majority of the seam sections, for example via a teach-in sewing.
  • the assignment seam positions P1, P2 are assigned assignment sewing parameter values.
  • the assigned sewing parameter values are sheet values and / or crimp values and / or grading values.
  • the further generation method will be described below with reference to the example of an assignment of grading values.
  • the grading values are again assigned to the assignment seam positions P1, P2 either on the basis of empirical values, that is to say based on experience, by how much the seam 32 changes between the seam ends 17a, 17b between successive clothing sizes in length, or by means of teach-in sewing processes in which the seam 32 is sewn for different clothing sizes.
  • the assignment seam position P 1 can be assigned, for example, a grade value 3% and the assignment seam position P 2, for example a grade value 4%.
  • the assignment sewing parameter value that is to say the degree value in the example described
  • the assignment sewing parameter value is assigned to the seam sections resulting during the division, on which the respective assignment seam position P1, P2 is located. This is done depending on which assignment seam position P1, P2 is on the currently considered seam section.
  • the one seam section on which the assignment seam position P1 lies is obtained in the example Fig. 4 that is, the degree value 3% and the seam portion on which the assignment seam position P2 is located receive the grade value 4%.
  • the seam 32 can now be automatically sewn as a sequence of the seam sections resulting from the division.
  • a starting point 17a at one end of the seam 32 or a starting point 17b at the other end of the seam 32 can be used as the sewing start point 17, so that the seam portions are arranged in the appropriate sequence a1, b1, c1 or in the order c1, b1 , a1 are sewn.
  • the seam sections may in turn be assigned different values of sewing parameters, for example different section grading values or different fullnesses.
  • a first reference clothing size is selected, for example, the clothing size G4.
  • Sewing control data is then generated for this reference garment size G4.
  • the sewing control data includes the lengths la1, ... of the seam portions a1, ...
  • the sewing control data may be generated by a first teach-in sewing at the reference garment size G4, respectively Teach-in sewing stitched seam section lengths la1, ... are stored in the memory module 25.
  • Another reference garment size such as garment size G9
  • Sewing control data is then generated for the further reference clothing size G9.
  • These further sewing control data again include at least the lengths la1,... Of the seam sections of the further reference clothing size G9.
  • This generation of the further sewing control data at the further reference clothing size G9 can, in turn, be effected by a teach-in sewing in accordance with what has already been explained above in connection with the first reference clothing size G4.
  • the sewing control data at the first reference garment size G4 in which not only the seam section lengths la1, ... but also the further sewing parameters assigned to these seam sections a1, ... can be changed by default or calculation, then only the seam section lengths are produced when generating the sewing control data at the further reference clothing size G9 la1, ... created and saved.
  • the further sewing parameters associated with the seam sections a1,... Remain unchanged during the generation of the further sewing control data in this further reference clothing size G9.
  • the sewing control data for the other clothing sizes are then calculated in the calculation module 30 and predefined for processing by the control device 24.
  • the other clothing sizes are those clothing sizes that differ from the reference clothing sizes G4, G9.
  • other sewing parameter values can also be predefined, for example parameter values for a curve radius value, for a crimp value or for a thread tension.
  • the specification of other sewing parameter values except the seam section lengths la1, ... is not mandatory, but the sewing parameter values can also be retained.
  • a seam section length lb1 for the reference clothing size G4 is 120 mm and for the further reference clothing size G9 is 150 mm
  • the seam section length lb1 for the intermediate clothing sizes G5 to G8 is calculated by equidistant division, so that for these intermediate clothing sizes G5 to G8, the seam section lengths lb1 to 126 mm, 132 mm, 138 mm and 144 mm.
  • the sewing control data may be generated by, for example, teach-in sewing. If more than two reference clothing sizes are used, a corresponding increase in the number of supporting points in the calculation and presetting of the sewing control data for the other clothing sizes results in further improvements in accuracy in the sewing parameters for the further clothing sizes.
  • Fig. 5 shows in one too Fig. 3 similar representation of a jacket part 12, with a in the Fig. 5 not shown right sleeve to be sewn.
  • a total of three assignment seam positions P1, P2 and P3 are assigned.
  • a sewing reference point 33 which is at the same time a sewing start point 17 at the in the Fig. 5 schematically illustrated garment size, a length of the seam between the sewing reference point 33 and the assignment seam position P 1 30% of a total length L of the seam.
  • a seam length between the assignment seam positions P1 and P2 is 15% of the total length L.
  • a seam length between the assignment seam positions P2 and P3 is 30% of the total length L.
  • a seam length between the assignment seam position P3 and the sewing reference point 33 is accordingly 25% of the total length L.
  • the reference point 33 simultaneously represents the sewing start point 17.
  • the seam is divided into a plurality of seam sections during a teach-in sewing.
  • the assigned assignment seam positions in P1 to P3 are assigned corresponding sewing parameters.
  • the assigned sewing parameters are then assigned to the seam sections resulting from the division of the seam, on which there is at least one assignment seam position. This again takes place depending on which assignment seam position P 1 to P 3 lies on the currently considered seam section which has resulted during the division.
  • the assignment seam positions may be as described above in connection with FIG Fig. 4 already explained, also grading values are assigned. Starting from, for example, splitting the seam into a plurality of seam sections by a teach-in sewing at a basic clothing size, the seam section lengths for the other clothing sizes can then be calculated on the basis of the grading values assigned to the seam sections via the assignment seam positions P1 to P3 and when sewing the respective clothing size retrieved and used. In this case, those generating process steps can be used, which in connection with the Fig. 2 and Tables 1 to 4 have already been explained.
  • a change between the parameter seam sections a1 to d1 is detected during operation sewing, ie after the teach-in sewing, on the basis of a determination of the sewn sewing path, starting from the sewing reference point 33. This determination can be made for example by measuring the sewing distance.
  • the positions and lengths la1 to ld1 of the parameter seam sections a1 to d1 and the associated sewing parameters are stored in the memory module 25 of the sewing machine 1.
  • the measuring of the sewing path is again performed by the detection module 26.
  • the changeover takes place again with the changeover module 29.
  • Fig. 6 shows the situation for sewing the jacket part 12 with the left sleeve part. Here is sewn in the opposite direction of rotation as when sewing the right sleeve part.
  • Fig. 6 again shows the situation in which the sewing reference point 33 coincides with the sewing start point 17 in the preparatory teach-in sewing. It takes place after the assignment of the sewing parameters to the seam sections resulting from the teach-in division according to their position relative to the assignment seam positions P1 to P3 Fig. 6 to sew with automatic parameter change, as described above in connection with Fig. 5 already explained.
  • FIGS. 7 and 8 Based on FIGS. 7 and 8 is a variant of sewing the left sleeve with the jacket part 12 after Fig. 6 explained, in which a starting point 17 'with respect to the reference point 33 is shifted by 50% of the total length L of the seam.
  • the Nähparameter- change between the seam sections takes place when sewing, starting from the shifted starting point 17 ', based on a determination of a sewing distance between the sewing reference point 33 and the sewing start point 17.
  • This determination for example, by entering the sewing start point 17 means Tapping a point on a schematic representation of the seam on a display 34 of the sewing machine 1 (see. Fig. 1 ), which is in signal communication with the control device 24.
  • an assignment of the sewing parameter values assigned to the assignment seam positions P1 to P3 is made depending on which assignment seam position P 1 to P3 on the now starting from the shifted one Sewing start position 17 ', currently considered seam section is located.
  • Fig. 9 clarified in one too Fig. 3 similar representation optimized Nähparameterdung along a seam for a right sleeve. Shown are according to empirical values along the seam parameters to be set around the edge contour 14.
  • a sewing direction is in the Fig. 9 Starting from the sewing start point 17 has in a first seam section about up to half the seam length in an outerwear front part 35 to a shoulder seam 36 a Khoffselwert a low, first value K1 which is indicated by a slightly undulating wavy line.
  • the sleeve along the seam has a low fullness compared to the fabric of the front part 35.
  • a second half of the seam between the sewing start point 17 and the shoulder seam 36 has a higher curl value K2, which is shown in FIG Fig. 9 is indicated by a stronger wavy line.
  • the crimp value can have the value 0 over a short seam section.
  • the crimp value again has the higher value K2, which corresponds to a greater fullness of the sleeve compared to the fabric of an outer clothing back piece 37.
  • the curl value changes from the higher value K2 to the lower value K1.
  • the Köselwert 0. This also applies to the area of the seam around the sewing start point 17th
  • a parameter variant is shown in which also in the area of the shoulder seam 36 there is a small feed arc, ie a corresponding radius of curvature value.
  • the optimum seam course for example, the distribution to Fig. 9
  • the information about the seam section lengths resulting from a first set of seam section lengths at a base size for all other clothing sizes, ie the grading values also belong to a complete set of sewing control data.
  • an assignment of the sewing parameters to the seam sections takes place during the seam division into the seam sections.
  • This alternative assignment and assignment method can be used, for example, for arc radius or crimp values or even at thread tension values and / or other sewing parameters are used.
  • Fig. 10 shows a splitting of the seam into a total of three operating seam sections a1, b1 and c1. Since only three operating seam sections a1 to c1 are available, only a limited assignment of the sewing parameters to these operating seam sections a1 to c1 is possible. This is in the Fig. 10 analogous to the representation of Fig. 9 illustrated.
  • the operating seam portion a1 has about 20% of the total length L of the seam from the sewing start point 17.
  • the operational seam portion b1 has approximately 35% of the total length L of the seam and extends symmetrically to the shoulder seam 36, which lies approximately in the middle in the operating seam portion b1.
  • the operational seam portion c1 represents the remaining 45% of the length L of the seam.
  • Fig. 11 shows the subdivision of the seam, again starting from the sewing start point 17, in five operating seam sections a1, b1, c1, d1 and e1.
  • the working seam portion a1 has 5% of the length L of the entire seam.
  • the subsequent operating seam section b1 has 15% of the total length L of Seam.
  • the subsequent operational seam section c1 has 25% of the total length L of the seam.
  • the subsequent operational seam section d1 has 15% of the total length of the seam and the last operational seam section e1 has 40% of the total length L of the seam.
  • the crimp value K 0 and it is sewn without feed sheet.
  • the crimp value is K1 and it is sewn with the sheet radius value "large feed sheet".
  • the curling value is K2, and it is sewn with the sheet radius value "small feed sheet".
  • the crimp value is again K1 and it is in turn sewn with the sheet radius value "large feed sheet”.
  • the crimp value K 0 and it is sewn without feed sheet.
  • the shoulder seam 36 again lies approximately in the center.
  • the operational seam portions b1 and d1 are approximately symmetrical with each other.
  • Fig. 12 shows a division of the seam in a total of seven operating seam sections a1, b1, c1, d1, e1, f1 and g1. Correspondingly finer a distribution of the sewing parameters can take place on these operating seam sections a1 to g1, as again in the Fig. 12 illustrated.
  • the seam section lengths of the operational seam sections a1 to g1 are 5%, 20%, 10%, 5%, 10%, 10% and 40% of the total length L of the seam.
  • the operating seam section d1 lies again in the region of the shoulder seam 36.
  • the crimp value K 0.
  • the crimp value is K1.
  • the crimp value is K2.
  • the crimp value is K2.
  • the operating seam sections a1 and g1 is sewn without feed sheet.
  • the operating seam sections b1 and f1 is with sewn the Bogenradiuswert "large feed sheet”.
  • the sheet radius value "small feed sheet" is sewn.
  • the subdivision of the entire seam into the operating seam sections is freely specified by the operator.
  • the sewing control data must be specified at each division of the seam in the seam sections so that they match an optimized parameter distribution according to the Fig. 9 as close as possible.
  • Table 5 shows grading values assigned to the operating seam sections according to this method.
  • Table 5 seam section Fig. 10 Fig. 11 Fig. 12 a1 0 0 0 b1 GW1 + GW2 0 0 c1 GW3 GW1 + GW2 LV1 d1 --- GW3 0 e1 --- 0 GW2 f1 --- --- 0 g1 --- --- GW3
  • This assignment of the grading values GW thus takes into account which assignment seam positions P1 to P3 on the respectively currently considered seam section a1 ... in the partitions according to the 10 to 12 lies.
  • the assignment seam position P2 is on the seam portion e1 and the assignment seam position P3 is on the seam portion g1.
  • the grading values GW1, GW2, GW3 are assigned as shown in the column " Fig. 12 "of Table 5 specified.
  • other sewing parameters for example the radius of curvature values or the crimping values, can also be assigned instead of the grading values GW.
  • the parameter seam sections 20 and 21 are combined to form a combined seam section to which the arc radius value "small feed arc" is completely assigned. From the sewing starting point 17 is sewn with the radius of curvature value, which is the first parameter seam section, so the first radius seam section 19, assigned, so with the radius of curvature value "large feed sheet”.
  • the radius of curvature value is changed over to the radius of curvature value assigned to this new parameter seam section.
  • the methods described above are used especially when sewing sleeves into a body outer garment piece without pre-crimping and in particular when producing jackets.

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Computer Hardware Design (AREA)
  • Microelectronics & Electronic Packaging (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Sewing Machines And Sewing (AREA)

Claims (15)

  1. Procédé de génération de données de commande de couture pour l'exécution d'un programme de couture en fonction d'une taille d'habillement, programme au cours de l'évolution duquel une couture présentant une pluralité de sections de couture (a1/a2, b1/b2, c1/c2, d1/d2, ...) se succédant est cousue, comprenant les étapes suivantes :
    - la sélection d'une taille de base d'habillement (G4),
    - la génération de données de commande de couture pour la taille de base (G4), les longueurs des sections de couture (a1/a2, b1/b2, c1/c2, d1/d2, ...) faisant partie des données de commande de couture,
    - la génération de données de commande de couture pour les autres tailles d'habillement (G1 à G3, G5 à G10) différentes de la taille de base (G4), comprenant les sous-étapes suivantes :
    -- la prédéfinition d'une valeur de graduation totale de laquelle l'ensemble de la couture s'allonge dans le cas de tailles d'habillement (G1/G2, G2/G3, G3/G4, ...) se succédant,
    -- en fonction de la valeur de graduation totale, le calcul (et la prédéfinition) de valeurs de graduation de section desquelles au moins certaines sections de couture (a1/a2, b1/b2, c1/c2, d1/d2, ...) s'allongent dans le cas de tailles d'habillement (G1/G2, G2/G3, G3/G4, ...) se succédant.
  2. Procédé selon la revendication 1, caractérisé par d'autres étapes suivantes :
    - la détermination d'au moins une autre valeur de graduation de laquelle la couture s'allonge en fonction d'une taille d'habillement sélectionnée (G4), dans le cas de tailles d'habillement (G4/G5, G5/G6, ...) se succédant qui sont supérieures à la taille d'habillement sélectionnée (G4).
  3. Procédé selon la revendication 2, caractérisé en ce que, pour déterminer l'autre valeur de graduation, au moins une valeur de graduation de section est déterminée, de laquelle une section de couture (a1/a2, b1/b2, c1/c2, d1/d2, ...) s'allonge dans le cas de tailles d'habillement (G1/G2, G2/G3, G3/G4, ...) se succédant qui sont supérieures à la taille d'habillement sélectionnée (G4).
  4. Procédé selon la revendication 3, caractérisé en ce qu'en fonction de l'autre valeur de graduation, d'autres valeurs de graduation de section sont calculées et prédéfinies, desquelles au moins certaines sections de couture (a1/a2, b1/b2, c1/c2, d1/d2, ...) s'allongent dans le cas de tailles d'habillement (G4/G5, G5/G6, ...) se succédant qui sont supérieures à la taille d'habillement sélectionnée (G4).
  5. Procédé selon l'une quelconque des revendications 2 à 4, caractérisé en ce que, pour déterminer l'autre valeur de graduation, une couture d'apprentissage est réalisée dans le cas d'une taille d'habillement (G9) qui est supérieure à la taille d'habillement sélectionnée (G4).
  6. Procédé selon l'une quelconque des revendications 2 à 5, caractérisé par d'autres étapes de procédé suivantes :
    - la détermination d'au moins une autre valeur de graduation de laquelle la couture s'allonge en fonction d'une autre taille d'habillement sélectionnée (G7), dans le cas de tailles d'habillement (G7/G8, G8/G9, G9/G10) se succédant qui sont supérieures à l'autre taille d'habillement sélectionnée (G7).
  7. Procédé selon la revendication 6, caractérisé en ce que, pour déterminer l'autre valeur de graduation, au moins une valeur de graduation de section est déterminée, de laquelle une section de couture (a1, b1, c1, d1, ...) s'allonge dans le cas de tailles d'habillement (G7/G8, G8/G9, G9/G10) se succédant qui sont supérieures à l'autre taille d'habillement sélectionnée (G7).
  8. Procédé selon la revendication 6 ou 7, caractérisé en ce qu'en fonction de l'autre valeur de graduation, d'autres valeurs de graduation de section sont calculées et prédéfinies, desquelles au moins certaines sections de couture (a1/a2, b1/b2, c1/c2, d1/d2, ...) s'allongent dans le cas de tailles d'habillement (G7/G8, G8/G9, ...) se succédant qui sont supérieures à la taille d'habillement sélectionnée (G7).
  9. Procédé selon l'une quelconque des revendications 6 à 8, caractérisé en ce que, pour déterminer l'autre valeur de graduation, une couture d'apprentissage est réalisée dans le cas d'une taille d'habillement (G10) qui est supérieure à l'autre taille d'habillement sélectionnée (G7).
  10. Procédé selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 9, caractérisé en ce qu'au moins certaines valeurs de graduation de section, rapporté à la longueur de la section de couture (a1/a2, b1/b2, c1/c2, d1/d2, ...) respective, sont différentes de la valeur de graduation totale, rapporté à la longueur de la couture totale.
  11. Procédé selon la revendication 10, caractérisé en ce qu'au moins l'une des valeurs de graduation de section présente la valeur zéro.
  12. Procédé de génération de données de commande de couture pour l'exécution d'un programme de couture en fonction d'une taille d'habillement, programme au cours de l'évolution duquel une couture présentant une pluralité de sections de couture (a1/a2, b1/b2, c1/c2, d1/d2, ...) se succédant est cousue, comprenant les étapes suivantes :
    - la sélection d'une première taille d'habillement de référence (G4),
    - la génération de données de commande de couture pour la première taille d'habillement de référence (G4), les longueurs des sections de couture (a1/a2, b1/b2, c1/c2, d1/d2, ...) faisant partie des données de commande de couture,
    - la sélection d'au moins une autre taille d'habillement de référence (G9),
    - la génération de données de commande de couture pour l'autre taille d'habillement de référence, les longueurs des sections de couture (a1/a2, b1/b2, c1/c2, d1/d2, ...) faisant partie des données de commande de couture,
    - le calcul et la prédéfinition des données de commande de couture pour les autres tailles d' habillement (G1 à G3, G5 à G8, G10), qui sont différentes des tailles d'habillement de référence (G4, G9).
  13. Procédé selon la revendication 12, caractérisé en ce que, pour générer les données de commande de couture, dans le cas de tailles d'habillement de référence (G4, G9), une couture d'apprentissage est réalisée pour au moins l'une des tailles d'habillement de référence (G4, G9).
  14. Procédé de fonctionnement pour une machine à coudre (1) comprenant les étapes suivantes :
    - la génération de données de commande de couture selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 13,
    - l'identification de la taille d'habillement actuellement à coudre,
    - la couture au moyen des données de commande de couture de la taille d'habillement identifiée.
  15. Machine à coudre (1) pour la réalisation d'un procédé selon la revendication 14,
    - comprenant un module de calcul (30) pour le calcul des données de commande de couture,
    - un dispositif de commande (24),
    - un module de mémoire (25) pour les données de commande de couture et les longueurs de section de couture (1a1/1a2, 1b1/1b2, 1c1/1c2, 1d1/1d2, ...) pour chaque taille d'habillement,
    - un module de détection (26) pour la détection de la position de couture respectivement actuelle à l'intérieur de la couture,
    - un module de changement (29) pour le changement automatique d'un paramètre de fonctionnement de couture lors d'un passage entre deux sections de couture (a1/a2, b1/b2, c1/c2, d1/d2, ...) se succédant.
EP14164204.1A 2013-05-07 2014-04-10 Procédé de génération de données de commande de couture pour le traitement d'un programme de couture en fonction d'une taille d'habillement Active EP2801647B1 (fr)

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DE102013208408.0A DE102013208408A1 (de) 2013-05-07 2013-05-07 Verfahren zur Erzeugung von Näh-Steuerungsdaten zum Abarbeiten eines von einer Bekleidungsgröße abhängigen Nähprogramms

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US4509443A (en) * 1983-03-01 1985-04-09 Microdynamics, Inc. Automatic sewing machine and method for jacket sleeve attachment
DE3490775C2 (de) 1984-10-25 1991-09-05 Tokyo Juki Industrial Co Ltd Vorrichtung zur differentiellen Vorschubsteuerung in einer Nähmaschine
JPH01236088A (ja) * 1987-10-31 1989-09-20 Juki Corp ミシンの布送り制御装置
EP0512145B1 (fr) * 1991-05-10 1994-01-12 Dürkopp Adler Aktiengesellschaft Procédé pour exécuter une couture changeant de direction
FR2695805B1 (fr) * 1992-09-23 1995-01-06 International Tpc Procédé de conception de patronnage tridimensionnels pour pièges de vêtements.
JPH0724163A (ja) * 1993-07-14 1995-01-27 Brother Ind Ltd 拡大縮小機能を備えた加工データ作成装置
JPH0724162A (ja) * 1993-07-14 1995-01-27 Brother Ind Ltd 縫製データ作成装置
JP2777080B2 (ja) * 1995-03-08 1998-07-16 ジューキ株式会社 いせ込みミシン
JPH111814A (ja) * 1997-04-11 1999-01-06 Toray Ind Inc 衣料・服飾品の製造方法および衣料・服飾品の製造支援装置
DE19920350C1 (de) * 1999-05-04 2000-11-30 Duerkopp Adler Ag Verfahren zum Betrieb einer Nähmaschine zum Verbinden eines ersten Nähgutteils mit einem zweiten Nähgutteil unter Einarbeitung von Mehrweite
JP2006034695A (ja) * 2004-07-28 2006-02-09 Juki Corp 差動送りミシン
JP2006158642A (ja) * 2004-12-07 2006-06-22 Juki Corp 差動送りミシン
JP2007195807A (ja) 2006-01-27 2007-08-09 Juki Corp 差動送りミシン
DE102006042334A1 (de) 2006-09-08 2008-03-27 Dürkopp Adler AG Nähmaschine
JP2008212289A (ja) * 2007-03-01 2008-09-18 Brother Ind Ltd ミシン及びミシン制御プログラム

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CN104141202B (zh) 2018-06-05
TW201506218A (zh) 2015-02-16
DE102013208408A1 (de) 2014-11-13
CN104141202A (zh) 2014-11-12
JP2014217761A (ja) 2014-11-20
JP6387243B2 (ja) 2018-09-05
EP2801647A1 (fr) 2014-11-12
TWI651444B (zh) 2019-02-21
KR20140132285A (ko) 2014-11-17

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