EP2801647B1 - Method for generating sewing control data for processing a sewing program depending on the garment size - Google Patents

Description

The invention relates to a method for generating sewing control data for executing a garment size dependent sewing program. Further, the invention relates to an operating method for a sewing machine having such a production method and a sewing machine for carrying out such an operating method.

A method for generating sewing control data is known from US 5,156,237 DE 199 20 350 C1 as well as from the DE 10 2007 003 721 A1 , In the methods according to the prior art, the seam section length is changed in each case between the seam sections of different clothing sizes by a constant absolute size difference. An example of this is the Fig. 14 of the DE 10 2007 003 721 A1 where in the column 71 such absolutely constant differences in length are indicated. These differences in length are referred to as "proportional correction data". Corresponding constant length differences, denoted there as grading values GR, are shown in the table Fig. 5 of the DE 199 20 350 C1 specified. The DE 34 90 775 C2 describes a device for differential feed control in a sewing machine.

It is an object of the present invention to provide a method for producing sewing control data, wherein the sewing control data are better adapted to the different clothing sizes.

This object is achieved according to the invention by a method according to claim 1 and by a method according to claim 12.

According to the invention, it has been recognized that it is possible in principle, by specifying a single grading value, namely a total grading value, which specifies the value of the entire seam at successive clothing sizes, an improved adaptation of the seam section lengths for clothing sizes deviating from the basic size , The overall grade value is not an absolutely constant length difference, but a true proportionality factor, so that for larger garment sizes where the entire seam is longer, there is also an absolutely larger seam extension than for smaller apparel sizes. On the basis of this dependent calculation and further specification of section grading values or of extension parts, by which the individual seam sections extend, an unambiguous assignment of the respective seam section extension results. The length of each seam section can be specified for each size of clothing using the extension parts. In the simplest case, the section grading values are proportionally the same as the lengths of the seam sections along the length of the entire seam. In this case, all seam sections lengthen proportionally by the total grade. Alternatively, deviating section grading values can also be specified. In this case, the boundary condition must be complied with that the extension of the entire seam corresponds to the total grading value. The section grading values may be given in proportion to the total grading value, which may then correspond to the value "100%". Independently, on the one hand, the overall grading value and, on the other hand, a proportional distribution can be changed to the section grading values. For example, as far as the section grading values are distributed to three seam sections, the distribution of the total grading value to the section grading values may be changed from a distribution key 30% / 30% / 40% to 40% / 10% / 50%. So it's one absolute or even a relative specification of the grading values possible. The generation of the sewing control data is carried out automatically after specification of the basic size data and the total grading value. Manual input of sewing control data, for example manual input of size-dependent seam section lengths, can be dispensed with, which relieves the operator. The production method may be configured so that it is no longer necessary for the operator to input grading data to prepare for sewing. The sewing control data is ideally generated completely in the background, so that the operator does not have to deal with grading values except for a size selection of the garment size to be sewn. A specification of the basic size data, that is to say a specification in particular of the lengths of the seam sections, can be effected by a teach-in sewing or by a data input. Data entry can be done manually or by reading in digital data. Clothing sizes may be consistent with clothing sizes. Sewing control data can be made independently for symmetrical garments for both sides. For example, for the two sleeves of men's or women's outerwear so independent sewing control data can be generated. The production process may also be used in conjunction with letting or pre-crimping. A ribbon is an example of one of the sewing material to be sewn. The seam sections of the two workpiece parts, which are sewn together, may have the same or different lengths. When Lisieren the lengths of the seam sections of the Lisierbandes are each smaller than the associated seam sections of the workpiece. During pre-crimping, precisely one piece of fabric is prepared by means of the sewing thread, with the result that the piece of fabric is sewn in sections according to the grading values assigned to the respective seam portions. The total grading value can be specified as empirical value. Thus, preparatory sewing processes and / or calibration sewing sequences can be included in the predetermined overall grading value. When specifying the overall grade value, results in the generation of sewing control data at different reference clothing sizes can be resorted to. This can be used for the iterative optimization of a total grading value to be specified. Nonlinearities relating to a dependence on sewing parameters on a sequence of clothing sizes can also be taken into account. In this way, the total grading value to be specified can be optimized.

By determining a further grade value according to claim 2, 3 or 4, the entire range of the different clothing sizes can be subdivided into two size ranges for which different grading values apply. The further grade value may be a further total grade value or one or more slice grade values. The further grading value may differ from the first predetermined overall grading value. This results in a corresponding increase in the accuracy in the adaptation of the lengths of the seam sections to the respective clothing sizes, since the division into several size ranges now more support points are available to adjust as closely as possible non-linear dependencies of the lengths of the seam sections of the clothing sizes. In an alternative production method, the further grading value acts such that, depending on this further grading value, the seam sections are correspondingly shortened for successive garment sizes which are smaller than the selection garment size. The production method can be based on a basic size, ie in the direction of larger clothing sizes or in the direction of smaller clothing sizes. Overall, by default of the further grading value, the seam section lengths for the various clothing sizes can be adapted even more precisely to default values. Also in the case of the further grading values and especially in the case of the section grading values, preliminary sewing processes and / or calibration sewing sequences can be included in their specification, as already explained above in connection with the overall grading value. A real model form can be adapted in this way ever closer to an ideal model.

The at least one choice garment size for which the grade value is determined may be a garment size that represents neither the largest nor the smallest of the garment sizes to be considered. When determining the further grading values, interpolation is therefore not carried out between the smallest and the largest clothing size, but instead at least one support point is used, which lies between the smallest and the largest clothing size.

Teach-in sewing for determining the further degree value leads to a further advantageous relief of the operator, since the generation method can be designed so that no grading values have to be specified manually. During teach-in sewing, the seam section lengths for the teach-in clothing size result in an automated process.

Corresponding advantages have a production method according to claim 6, 7 or 8, in which still another, in total a third grade can be determined, which in turn may be a further total grade or one or more section grading. The range of possible clothing sizes may then be divided into three ranges of clothing sizes, in which total three different grading values can be used. Here, too, it applies correspondingly that, in an alternative method, the further, third grading value applies to clothing sizes which are smaller than the further selection clothing size, in which case the further grading value prescribes a shortening of the seam sections.

The advantages of a teach-in sewing according to claim 9 correspond to those which have already been explained above in connection with the claim 5.

In a further variant of the production method, more than three graduation values can also be predetermined, ie the range of possible clothing sizes can accordingly be divided into more than three ranges of clothing sizes in which different grading values can be used.

Different section grading values according to claim 10 allow further adjustment of the changes in seam section lengths over the garment sizes, which is even more adaptable to default values.

This applies correspondingly to a distribution of the gradation according to claim 11, in which individual seam sections are not changed in their length at all. In principle, negative section grading values are also possible.

In an alternative generation method for the sewing control data according to claim 12, these can be generated without requiring the specification of a total grading value. The operator then gets by completely without data input. The sewing control data can then exclusively, based on the control data generated for the at least two reference clothing sizes, by internal calculation also for the other clothing sizes. In turn, this internal calculation can be used for data obtained by preparatory sewing processes and / or calibration sewing sequences, as has already been explained above in connection with the overall grading value and the further grading value. If more than two reference clothing sizes are used which are selected and for which the sewing control data are first generated, a corresponding increase in the number of support points results in further improvements in accuracy in the further clothing sizes lying between the reference clothing sizes.

Teach-in sewing leads to particularly easy generation of the sewing control data for the reference clothing sizes.

The advantages of an operating method according to claim 14 and a sewing machine according to claim 15 correspond to those which have already been explained above with reference to the generating method according to the invention. A detection of the respective current sewing position within the seam to be sewn between the two workpieces can be done by counting stitches of predetermined length or alternatively via an optical detection of the actual seam position.

Fig. 1

perspektivisch eine Nähmaschine zum Vernähen von Nähgutteilen mit gebogenen Randkonturabschnitten längs einer Naht, wobei zur Sichtbarmachung interner Details Gehäuseelemente abgenommen sind;

Fig. 2

schematisch zwei miteinander zu vernähende Nähgutteile am Beispiel eines Sakko-Teils mit einem zu vernähenden ÄrmelTeil; und

Fig. 3

einen Armlochausschnitt eines Sakko-Nähgutteils zum Verdeutlichen einerseits von Betriebs-Nahtabschnitten und andererseits von Radius-Nahtabschnitten längs der Verbindungsnaht dieses Sakko-Teils mit dem zugehörigen Ärmel-Teil;

Fig. 4

in einer zu Fig. 3 ähnlichen Darstellung einen Armloch-Randabschnitt, eines Oberbekleidungs-Nähgutteils, bei dem zwischen verschiedenen Parameter-Nahtabschnitten jeweils ein Abschnitts-Gradierwert geändert wird;

Fig. 5

schematisch in einer zu Fig. 3 ähnlichen Darstellung den Armlochausschnitt des Sakko-Nähgutteils zum Verdeutlichen von Parameter-Nahtabschnitten für Abschnitts-Gradierwerte längs der Verbindungsnaht dieses Sakko-Teils mit dem zugehörigen Ärmel-Teil, dargestellt an der Verbindungsnaht für den rechten Ärmel, wobei ein Näh-Startpunkt mit einem Näh-Referenzpunkt für die Parameter-Nahtabschnitte übereinstimmt;

Fig. 6

in einer zu Fig. 5 ähnlichen Darstellung die Situation für die Verbindungsnaht des linken Ärmels, wobei ebenfalls ein Näh-Startpunkt mit dem Näh-Referenzpunkt für die Parameter-Nahtabschnitte zusammenfällt;

Fig. 7 und 8

das Sakko-Teil nach Fig. 6, wobei die Situation beim Vernähen der Verbindungsnaht zum linken Ärmel mit einem in Bezug zum Näh-Referenzpunkt in Umfangsrichtung um das Armloch um 50 % der gesamten Verbindungsnahtlänge verschobenen Näh-Startpunkt dargestellt ist;

Fig. 9

in einer zu Fig. 3 ähnlichen Darstellung, wiederum stark schematisch, veranschaulichte Nähparameter-Werte bei einer optimierten Ärmelnaht, am Beispiel eines rechten Ärmels;

Fig. 10 bis 12

Beispiele einer Unterteilung der Ärmel-Naht nach Fig. 9 in Betriebs-Nahtabschnitte, wobei auch die diesen zugeordneten Nähparameter veranschaulicht sind;

Fig. 13

in einer zu Fig. 3 ähnlichen Darstellung eine alternative Unterteilung der Ärmelnaht in Parameter-Nahtabschnitte, für einen rechten Ärmel; und

Fig. 14

in einer zu Fig. 13 ähnlichen Darstellung die Verhältnisse bei der Unterteilung der Ärmelnaht in Parameter-Nahtabschnitte für einen linken Ärmel.

Embodiments of the invention will be explained in more detail with reference to the drawing. In this show:

Fig. 1

perspective view of a sewing machine for sewing sewing material with curved edge contour sections along a Seam, wherein housing elements are removed for visualization of internal details;

Fig. 2

schematically two sewing fabric to be sewn together on the example of a jacket part with a sleeve to be sewn part; and

Fig. 3

an Armlochausschnitt a jacket fabric part to illustrate on the one hand operating seam sections and on the other hand of radius seam sections along the seam of this jacket part with the associated sleeve part;

Fig. 4

in one too Fig. 3 similar representation of an armhole edge portion, an outer garment fabric part, in which between each parameter seam portions each a section grading value is changed;

Fig. 5

schematically in one too Fig. 3 similar representation of the Armlochausschnitt the jacket fabric part to illustrate parameter seam sections for section grading along the seam of this jacket part with the associated sleeve part, shown at the seam for the right sleeve, wherein a sewing start point with a sewing Reference point for the parameter seam sections matches;

Fig. 6

in one too Fig. 5 Similar representation of the situation for the seam of the left sleeve, where also a Sewing start point coincides with the sewing reference point for the parameter seam sections;

FIGS. 7 and 8

the jacket part after Fig. 6 wherein the situation of stitching the seam to the left sleeve with a sewing start point shifted by 50% of the total joint seam length with respect to the sewing reference point circumferentially around the arm hole;

Fig. 9

in one too Fig. 3 similar representation, again very schematically, illustrated sewing parameter values in an optimized sleeve seam, using the example of a right sleeve;

10 to 12

Examples of a subdivision of the sleeve seam Fig. 9 in operational seam sections, the sewing parameters associated therewith also being illustrated;

Fig. 13

in one too Fig. 3 similar representation of an alternative subdivision of the sleeve seam in parameter seam sections, for a right sleeve; and

Fig. 14

in one too Fig. 13 similar representation of the ratios in the division of the sleeve seam in parameter seam sections for a left sleeve.

A sewing machine 1 has an upper arm 2, a vertical stand 3 and a lower housing, which is commonly referred to as a base plate 4. The base plate 4 has an upwardly projecting column 5, which is why the sewing machine 1 is also referred to as a column sewing machine. alternative the sewing machine 1 can also be designed as a flat bed machine. In the arm 2, a not shown arm shaft is rotatably mounted. The drive of the arm shaft and thus the essential sewing components of the sewing machine 1 via a mounted in the base plate 4 drive motor 6 and a belt drive not shown in the drawing. About the arm shaft and a crank mechanism is mounted vertically in the arm 2, not shown in the drawing needle bar vertically up and down driven, which carries a needle at its lower end. An approximate position of the needle bar is in the Fig. 1 indicated by dashed lines at 7. Below the needle bar a gripper is rotatably mounted in the column 5. Sewing parts to be sewn (compare the sewing material parts in the Fig. 2 and 3 ) are guided over a the needle column plate 9 forming the top of the column 5 and projecting laterally along the sewing direction over the column 5, through which the needle passes into the region of the gripper.

For advancing the sewing workpieces to be sewn together in the sewing direction of the sewing machine 1, a lower feed dog assembly 10 and an upper feed dog assembly 11 serve. These feed dog assemblies are explained in detail in the EP 1 897 984 A2 , With the aid of these two feed dog assemblies 10, 11, the sewing machine 1 can sewn fabric parts with curved edge contour sections along a connecting seam, wherein a radius of curvature of a feed arc, that is to say a sewing parameter, can be predetermined via the sewing material, which is likewise shown in FIG EP 1 897 984 A2 is described.

Fig. 2 shows the conditions before sewing two Nähgutteile the example of a jacket part 12 and a sleeve part 13. This illustration is very strongly schematic and corresponds to the illustration Fig. 3 of the DE 199 20 350 C1 ,

Edge contours 14, 15 of the two workpiece parts 12, 13 have edge contour sections bent along the seam to be sewn. Unlike the schematic representation after Fig. 2 can assume that the edge contour sections a1 / a2, b1 / b2, c / 1, c / 2, d1 / d2,... of these edge contours 14, 15 assigned to each other for sewing along the seam do not necessarily have the same radius of curvature, but in general different radii of curvature. These edge contour sections provide sections of the connecting seam, which are also referred to below as parameter seam sections.

When sewing the workpiece parts 12, 13, a sequence of parameter seam sections is processed, which corresponds to the edge contour sections a1 / a2,. These parameter seam sections have the lengths la1 / la2, lb1 / lb2, lc1 / lc2, ld1 / ld2,... The parameter seam lengths la1 and la2, lb1 and lb2,... Of the workpiece parts 12, 13 that are associated with one another during sewing generally do not have the same lengths. For example, the parameter seam sections a2, b2,... Of the sleeve part 13 are regularly longer than the associated parameter seam sections a1, b1,... Of the jacket part 12.

The lengths la1, lb1, lc1, ld1,... Of the parameter seam sections of the jacket part 12 are generally different from one another. This also applies to the lengths la2, lb2,... Of the parameter seam sections of the sleeve part 13.

Fig. 3 shows the relationships of the seam sections in the jacket part 12 more in detail. Shown is the jacket part 12 in the region of a right sleeve hole 16. The seam to the sleeve part, not shown is sewn along operating seam sections, of which in the Fig. 3 the operational seam sections b1, c1, e1, f1, h1 and i1 are highlighted. The length of these operating seam sections varies depending on the individual sewing technique of the operator. The operational seam sections may be interfaced with the parameter seam sections discussed above in connection with FIG Fig. 2 have already been explained, coincide; however, this is not mandatory. The operating seam sections are basically independent of the parameter seam sections.

The seam of the jacket part 12 with the sleeve part 13, not shown, begins at a seam starting point 17. The seam is then from along a sewing direction 18 in the Fig. 3 Sewn in a clockwise direction. In addition to the subdivision into the various operating seam sections a1, b1,..., The connecting seam is also subdivided into a sequence of parameter seam sections in the form of radius seam sections. The radius seam sections are each assigned a radius of curvature value for the predetermined radius of the sewing machine 1 radius of the feed sheet. Shown in the Fig. 3 are exclusively those radius seam sections in which a radius of curvature value is associated with a feed curve with finite curvature. Radius seam sections, in which no feed sheet is specified, in which without sewing by an operator so with the sewing machine 1 a straight seam section is sewn are not shown.

In the course of the joint seam there is a sequence of radius seam sections 19, 20, 21 and 22 with a radius of curvature value for specifying a feed arc. The radius of curvature value in the radius seam sections 19 and 22 results in a feed arc with a larger radius, that is to say with a small curvature. The between the radius seam sections 19 and 22 lying radius seam sections 20, 21 have a radius of curvature value, which results in a feed sheet with a smaller radius of curvature, ie a more curved or curved feed sheet.

The sequence of the arc radius values along the connecting seam is thus such that the arc radius value in a first region of the course of the connecting seam, namely up to the radius seam section 20, initially changes to values of "smaller (more strongly curved) feed sheet". From the radius seam section 21, there is a sequence of radius seam sections in which the radius of curvature value in the last region of the course of the connecting seam changes to values of "larger (less strongly curved) feed sheets".

Between the two radius seam sections 20, 21 with the radius of curvature value "smaller feed arc", ie stronger curvature, there is a seam section 23 with arc radius value "no feed sheet".

The seam portion of the seam between the seam start 17 and the radius seam portion 19 overlaps with the operation seam portions a1 and b1. The radius seam portion 19 overlaps with the operation seam portions b1 and c1. The radius seam portion 20 overlaps with the operation seam portions c1, d1, and e1. The radius seam portion between the two radius seam portions 20 and 21, that is, the seam portion 23, overlaps with the operation seam portions e1 and f1. The radius seam portion 21 overlaps with the operation seam portions f1, g1 and h1. The radius seam portion 22 overlaps with the operation seam portions h1 and i1. The radius seam portion between the radius seam portion 22 and the remainder of the seam to the seam beginning 17 overlaps with the operational seam portion i1 and the operational seam portion the operating seam portion i1 and the seam beginning 17 at which the then closed connection seam ends.

The sewing machine 1 has a control device 24, which in the Fig. 1 is shown schematically. The controller 24 has a memory module 25 for the lengths of the radius seam portions 19, 20, 21, and 22 and the associated radius of curvature values. The control device 24 also has a detection module 26 for detecting the respective current sewing position within the connecting seam. Such a detection can take place, for example, by counting the stitches along the connecting seam with a known stitch length. Alternatively, an optical detection of the actual seam position is possible, for example via a in the Fig. 1 indicated optical sensor 27th

A further memory unit 28, which may alternatively also be integrated into the memory module 25, serves to store the lengths (lx1, lx2) of the operating seam sections a1, b1,... And a2, b2,... In a corresponding memory unit Kräuselwerte stored, resulting from the ratios of the lengths of the sewing together suture sections a1 / a2, b1 / b2, .... In addition to the specification of a feed sheet with the sewing machine 1 and the specification of such a shirring or crimping possible, as also in the EP 1 897 984 A2 explained.

During operation of the sewing machine 1, the following procedure is followed: First, the connecting seam is divided into the radius seam sections, that is, for example, into the radius seam sections 19, 20, 23, 21, 22. Subsequently, arc radius values are assigned to the respective radius seam sections. In the execution after Fig. 3 results in an assignment of arc radius values "large radius of curvature, so small Curvature "to the radius seam sections 19 and 22 and" radius of curvature with a smaller radius value, ie greater curvature "to the radius seam sections 20 and 21. In the other radius seam sections of the feed seam of the radius of curvature value" no feed sheet "is assigned corresponding data are stored in the memories 25, 28 of the controller 24.

Subsequently, the sewing material parts 12, 13 are sewn starting from the seam starting point 17 along the operating seam sections a1 / a2, b1 / b2, ... When changing between the successive operating seam sections, for example a1 / a2 and b1 / b2, a Sewing operating parameters converted, for example, the already mentioned Kräuselwert. This changeover takes place with the aid of a changeover module 29 of the control device 24.

At the beginning of sewing, that is, starting from the seam starting point 17, the workpiece parts 12, 13 are sewn with a predetermined starting radius of curvature value, in the present case with the radius of curvature value "no feed sheet". In the subsequent change between two successive operating seam sections, for example, when changing between the operating seam sections a1 / a2 on the one hand and b1 / b2 on the other hand, as far as this change takes place in a radius seam section, which is associated with a radius of curvature value, the current The arc radius value automatically changes to the new arc radius value of this radius seam section. Since the change between the seam sections a1 / a2 and b1 / b2 takes place even before the beginning of the first radius seam section 19 along the connecting seam, no change takes place here between the radius of curvature values.

When changing between the operating seam sections b1 / b2 on the one hand and c1 / c2 on the other hand, an automatic change of the sheet radius value from the sheet radius value "no feed sheet" to the sheet radius value "large feed sheet". This automatic changeover takes place since the transition between the operating seam sections b1 / b2 on the one hand and c1 / c2 on the other hand takes place in the radius seam section 19. Accordingly, the arc radius value is also changed at the transition between the operating seam sections c1 / c2 on the one hand and d1 / d2 on the other hand towards the value "small feed sheet", since this transition takes place in the radius seam section 20. In the transition between the operating seam sections d1 / d2 on the one hand and e1 / e2 on the other hand, there is no change in the radius of curvature value, since this transition in turn takes place in the radius seam section 20.

When changing between the operating seam sections e1 / e2 on the one hand and f1 / f2 on the other hand, a change of the radius of curvature value takes place again to the value "no feed sheet", since this change takes place in the seam section 23. In an alternative seaming program in which the working seam portion e1 / e2 is so long that it completely covers the seam portion 23 so that the end of this alternative working seam portion e1 / e2 again lies in the radius seam portion 21, this would also be in this If there is no change in the arc radius value.

In the illustrated embodiment, when the operating seam sections f1 / f2 on the one hand and g1 / g2 transition, on the other hand, a change of the arc radius value from the value "no feed sheet" to the value "small feed sheet".

The next automatic change of the arc radius value takes place in the Fig. 3 illustrated embodiment when changing between the operating seam sections h1 / h2 on the one hand and i1 / i2 on the other hand, namely towards the arc radius value "large feed sheet".

When changing between the operating seam sections i1 and the last operating section towards the seam starting point 17, a change of the arc radius value from the value "larger feed sheet" to the value "no feed sheet" takes place again.

The radius of curvature values are so adapted to the edge contours of each sewing on the sewing piece, so usually the sleeve part 13, that with the help of each set feed arc the difference of the edge contours between the two workpieces 12, 13 in each case currently sewn operating seam section x1 / x2 is taken into account.

The splitting of the connecting seam into the radius seam sections can be effected as a function of a predetermined clothing size to be sewn and / or depending on the position of the seam starting point 17.

The sewing machine 1 further has a calculation module 30 for calculating sewing control data. These sewing control data can be assigned to the seam sections generated in advance by dividing a seam, which will be described later.

The sewing machine 1 is capable of processing a sewing program depending on the respective clothing size depending on the generated and calculated sewing control data, in the course of which a seam, z. B. the above-described seam, with the plurality of successive seam sections a1, b1, ... is sewn. Between the seam sections, a sewing parameter, such as a section grade, may change. A changeover of the sewing parameter can take place automatically when changing between successive seam sections a1, b1,.

Table 1 below gives an example of a set of such sewing control data. In the following it is assumed that the connecting seam is subdivided into five parameter seam sections a1 / a2 to e1 / e2. A subdivision into a different number of parameter seam sections is also possible, for example a subdivision into five to eleven seam sections. Table 1a here shows section grading values for the various parameter seam sections a1 / a2, b1 / b2,... E1 / e2 and a total grading value. The first line of Table 1a shows the section grade of the respective parameter seam section in relation to the length of this operating seam section. The second line of Table 1a shows the section grade in relation to the total length of the joint, ie the sum of the lengths of all parameter seam sections a1 / a2 to e1 / e2. In the section grading values shown in the last line of Table 1a, these have exactly the relation of the associated lengths of the parameter seam sections to one another. For the parameter seam section a1 / a2, the following applies: 0.38% / 3.4% = 50mm / 450mm, the section lengths for clothing size G4 being given here by way of example. The sum of all section grade values gives the total grade value.

In general, the section grading values, based on the length of the respective parameter seam section, are different from the overall grading value, which is related to the entire length of the seam.

Table 1b shows the clothing size Gx in the first column and the lengths of the respective parameter seam portions a1 / a2 to e1 / e2 in the following columns. In the penultimate column, Table 1b shows the total lengths of the seam, again depending on the size of the garment. The last, right-hand column of Table 1b shows a growth in the size of the total seam length between successive clothing sizes Gx, ie the overall grading value. Table 1a Parameter seam section a1 / a2 b1 / b2 c1 / c2 d1 / d2 E1 / E2 Total Gradierwert Portion-Gradierwert / parameter seam portion 3.4% 3.4% 3.4% 3.4% 3.4% Section grade / total seam length 0.38% 0.91% 0.15% 0.76% 1.21% 3.4% Clothing size a1 / a2 b1 / b2 c1 / c2 d1 / d2 E1 / E2 Total seam length Gradierwert G10 61 mm 147 mm 24 mm 122 mm 196 mm 550 mm 3.4% G9 59 mm 142 mm 24 mm 118 mm 189 mm 532 mm 3.4% G8 57 mm 137 mm 23 mm 114 mm 183 mm 514 mm 3.4% G7 55 mm 133 mm 22 mm 111 mm 177 mm 497 mm 3.4% G6 53 mm 128 mm 21 mm 107 mm 171 mm 481 mm 3.4% G5 52 mm 124 mm 21 mm 103 mm 165 mm 465 mm 3.4% G4 50 mm 120 mm 20 mm 100 mm 160 mm 450 mm 3.4% G3 48 mm 116 mm 19 mm 97 mm 155 mm 435 mm 3.4% G2 47 mm 112 mm 19 mm 94 mm 150 mm 421 mm 3.4% G1 45 mm 109 mm 18 mm 90 mm 145 mm 407 mm

The sewing control data according to Tables 1a and 1b are generated as follows: First, a basic size is selected, in the present case exemplarily the clothing size G4. In principle, any other clothing size could be selected as the basic size. Subsequently, the lengths of the respective parameter seam sections a1 / a2 to e1 / e2 are generated for this basic size G4, ie in the present example the length values 50 mm, 120 mm, 20 mm, 100 mm, 160 mm and 450 mm.

Furthermore, the total grading value is specified, in the present example the value 3.4%. On this basis, sewing control data and, in particular, the lengths of the parameter seam sections are generated for the other clothing sizes G1 to G3 and G5 to G10. In the example of Table 1, depending on the overall grading value 3.4%, a calculation of the lengths of the respective parameter seam sections a1 / a2 to e1 / e2 performed, with the length specified in mm without decimal place. In the example of Table 1, the extension proportions, based on the length of the respective parameter seam sections, are identical to the overall grading value, ie also 3.4%. All parameter seam section lengths therefore extend by the same percentage.

After specification of the basic size data for the basic size G4 and the total grading value, the calculation of all other sewing control data is carried out automatically. The specification of the basic size data can be effected by a teach-in sewing or also by a data input, for example by a manual data input or reading in of corresponding basic size data. When specifying the overall grade value, previous results of sewing control data generation at different reference clothing sizes can be used. In the sewing control data of Table 1, the section grading values of the parameter seam sections are equal to the proportion of the total gradation value corresponding to the length portions of the parameter seam sections along the entire length of the joint seam.

The respective parameter seam sections a1 / a2 to e1 / e2 can be assigned further sewing parameters, for example crimp values or fullness values, as already explained above, or also other sewing operating parameters. In a variant of the sewing control data, the parameter seam sections of the various clothing sizes are also assigned arc radius values. The above-discussed radius seam sections are another example of parameter seam sections. The parameter seam sections for the arc radius values must be given as to their positions and lengths do not match the parameter seam sections for the section grading values.

A further variant for generating the sewing control data will be described with reference to Table 2. Table 2a Parameter seam section a1 / a2 b1 / b2 c1 / c2 d1 / d2 E1 / E2 Total Gradierwert Section grade / total seam length 0.0% 1.05% 0.0% 0.85% 1.5% 3.4% Clothing size a1 / a2 b1 / b2 c1 / c2 d1 / d2 E1 / E2 Total seam length Gradierwert G10 50 mm 151 mm 20 mm 125 mm 204 mm 550 mm 3.4% G9 50 mm 145 mm 20 mm 120 mm 196 mm 532 mm 3.4% G8 50 mm 140 mm 20 mm 116 mm 188 mm 514 mm 3.4% G7 50 mm 135 mm 20 mm 112 mm 181 mm 497 mm 3.4% G6 50 mm 130 mm 20 mm 108 mm 174 mm 481 mm 3.4% G5 50 mm 125 mm 20 mm 104 mm 167 mm 465 mm 3.4% G4 50 mm 120 mm 20 mm 100 mm 160 mm 450 mm 3.4% G3 50 mm 115 mm 20 mm 96 mm 153 mm 435 mm 3.4% G2 50 mm 111 mm 20 mm 93 mm 147 mm 421 mm 3.4% G1 50 mm 107 mm 20 mm 89mm 141 mm 407 mm

In generating the sewing control data according to Table 2, in turn, depending on the total grading value, there are specified section grading values by which at least some of the seam sections a1 / a2 to e1 / e2 extend at the successive garment sizes Gx, Gx + 1. In the example according to Table 2, these are the seam sections b1 / b2, d1 / d2 and e1 / e2. The other parameter seam sections a1 / a2 and c1 / c2 do not extend with successive clothing sizes, ie they have the constant length 50 mm or 20 mm. Correspondingly, the parameter seam sections b1 / b2, d1 / d2 and e1 / e2 extend with extension portions that do not necessarily correspond to their proportion of the total length of the connection seam.

The total grade 3.4% is distributed to the parameter seam sections b1 / b2 (extension rate 1.05%), d1 / d2 (extension rate 0.85%) and e1 / e2 (extension rate 1.5%) such that Due to these section grading values, the total seam of a clothing size at successive clothing sizes Gx, Gx + 1, that is, for example, between the clothing sizes G4 and G5, respectively changes according to the overall grading value.

A different distribution of the section grading values than the distribution according to Tables 1 and 2 is possible in compliance with this boundary condition. In extreme cases, the overall grading value can only be achieved by extending a single parameter seam section. In In another extreme case, certain section grading values may also have negative percentages which are then overcompensated by the section grading values of the other parameter seam sections.

For symmetrical garments, so in a left sleeve according to the Fig. 3 on the one hand and a right sleeve, the sewing control data can be generated independently of each other.

In the Fig. 3 the sleeve hole 16 is shown for a right sleeve part. Independent parameter seam sections, grade values, crimp values, and radius of curvature values can be specified for the seam of the associated left sleeve portion.

A further variant for the generation of the sewing control data will be described with reference to the following Table 3. Table 3 Clothing size a1 / a2 b1 / b2 c1 / c2 d1 / d2 E1 / E2 Total seam length Gradierwert G10 50 mm 157 mm 20 mm 127 mm 209 mm 563 mm 3.8% G9 50 mm 150 mm 20 mm 122 mm 200 mm 542 mm 3.8% G8 50 mm 143 mm 20 mm 117 mm 191 mm 522 mm 3.8% G7 50 mm 137 mm 20 mm 113 mm 183 mm 503 mm 3.8% G6 50 mm 131 mm 20 mm 108 mm 175 mm 484 mm 3.8% G5 50 mm 125 mm 20 mm 104 mm 167 mm 467 mm 3.8% G4 50 mm 120 mm 20 mm 100 mm 160 mm 450 mm 3.4% G3 50 mm 115 mm 20 mm 96 mm 153 mm 435 mm 3.4% G2 50 mm 111 mm 20 mm 93 mm 147 mm 421 mm 3.4% G1 50 mm 107 mm 20 mm 89mm 141 mm 407 mm

For the clothing sizes G1 to G4, the extension portions and the lengths of the parameter seam portions a1 / a2 to e1 / e2 are identical to those of the table 2b. From the size G4, another grading value, in the present example a further total grading value is determined, which in the example of Table 3 is 3.8%. Depending on the selection garment size G4, the total seam will be extended by this subsequent overall grading value for the subsequent, successive garment sizes that are greater than the selection garment size G4. In this case, the section graduation values of the operating seam sections are used which have already been explained above in connection with Table 2a.

To determine this further grade value, a teach-in sewing is performed on the clothing size G9. The clothing size G9, in which teaching in the example described takes place, is greater than the selection clothing size G4. In principle, a size other than the size G9 can also be used as a further teach-in clothing size, which differs from the basic size. In teach-in sewing, the lengths of the parameter seam sections a1 / a2 to e1 / e2 given in the row of table 3 in the row of table 3, ie the values 50 mm, 150 mm, 20 mm, 122 mm and 200 mm, result. The result is a total seam length L of 542 mm. The total seam length difference between the total seam length is 450 mm at the selection garment size G4 and the further teach-in clothing size G9 is now equally divided as part of an automatic calculation in total seam length changes in the intermediate clothing sizes G5 to G8, assuming approximately an extension of the total seam length by the same further total Gradierwert becomes. This results in the further total grade value of 3.8%. Accordingly, this results in the individual lengths of the parameter seam sections a1 / a2 to e1 / e2 for the intermediate sizes G5 to G8 and also for the size G10.

The default method for the sewing control data according to Table 3 takes into account that, starting from a certain clothing size, the operating seam sections of successive clothing sizes change more strongly than with smaller clothing sizes.

After the further teach-in sewing in the clothing size G9 and the resulting total grading value as well as after specification of the selection clothing size G4, from which the further grading value resulting from the further teach-in sewing is to apply, the in automatically generates the seam section lengths shown in Table 3.

A further variant of the generation of sewing control data, again using the example of the generation of section lengths of the parameter seam sections, will be explained with reference to Table 4. Again, for the garment sizes G1 to G4, the seam section lengths are the same as the values in Table 2b. Also, the section grading values of the individual parameter seam sections a1 / a2 to e1 / e2 coincide with the values discussed above in connection with Table 2b. Table 4 Clothing size a1 / a2 b1 / b2 c1 / c2 d1 / d2 E1 / E2 Total seam length Gradierwert G10 50 mm 160 mm 20 mm 128 mm 210 mm 568 mm 4.8% G9 50 mm 150 mm 20 mm 122 mm 199 mm 542 mm 4.8% G8 50 mm 141 mm 20 mm 116 mm 189 mm 517 mm 4.8% G7 50 mm 132 mm 20 mm 111 mm 180 mm 493 mm 3.1% G6 50 mm 128 mm 20 mm 107 mm 173 mm 478 mm 3.1% G5 50 mm 124 mm 20 mm 104 mm 166 mm 464 mm 3.1% G4 50 mm 120 mm 20 mm 100 mm 160 mm 450 mm 3.4% G3 50 mm 115 mm 20 mm 96 mm 153 mm 435 mm 3.4% G2 50 mm 111 mm 20 mm 93 mm 147 mm 421 mm 3.4% G1 50 mm 107 mm 20 mm 89mm 141 mm 407 mm

From the first selection clothing size G4, a further grade value is determined instead of the total grade value 3.4% previously used; in the example of Table 4, the further overall grade value is 3.1%. The associated section grading values result from the values determined during teach-in sewing for the lengths of the individual parameter seam sections a1 / a2 to e1 / e2. The further overall grade value is determined by a teach-in sewing at the clothing size G7, whereby the resulting increase in length of the total seam length of 493 mm in the case of the further teach-in clothing size G7 in comparison to the first selection Garment size G4 of 450 mm, the further overall grade of 3.1%, around each of which seam the intermediate clothing sizes G5 and G6 extended, resulting in automatic invoice. The lengths of the parameter seam sections then change with respect to this further overall grading value with additional consideration of their section grading values. The teach-in clothing size G7 simultaneously represents another selection clothing size. From the further selection clothing size G7, a further overall grade value is now determined, in the example of Table 4 the value 4.8%. This is done by another teach-in sewing at clothing size G10, giving a total seam length of 568 mm. Again, according to the lengths of the individual parameter seam sections a1 / a2 to e1 / e2, which result in the further teach-in sewing, corresponding selection grading values for these individual parameter seam sections are predefined with the aid of an automatic calculation. Again taking into account the determined section grading values, the seam section lengths are now extended with this further overall grading value.

In the sewing program operation of the sewing machine 1 sewing control data are first generated according to one of the variants described above. Subsequently, a garment size currently to be sewn is identified and then the two fabric pieces 12, 13 are sewn to the sewing control data of the identified garment size. For this purpose, the control device 24 takes over the respective sewing control data of the identified clothing size from the stores 25 or 28 and controls the sewing machine in accordance with the sewing position detected on the detection module 26 on the connecting seam. The changeover module 29 sets the sewing operation parameters in accordance with the detected sewing position and the sewing control data associated with this sewing position when changing between two successive parameter seam sections a1 / a2, b1 / b2, ..., as explained above.

In one of the two workpieces, which are sewn by means of the above-described generation of Nähsteuerung data, it may also be a Lisierband. This will be described below by way of example with reference to Fig. 4 explained. As a piece of sewing material 12 here is an outer clothing piece of sewing material shown and as Nähgutteil 13 the Lisierband. A seam 32 between these two fabric pieces 12, 13 is arranged between two seam boundary points 17a, 17b, which represent a seam beginning or a seam end depending on the sewing direction. Depending on whether the connecting seam 32 is sewn on a right or a left outer clothing side, the connecting seam 32 is sewn starting from the beginning of the seam 17a or starting from the seam beginning 17b. Between the two seam ends 17a, 17b, two allocation seam positions P1, P2 are assigned along the seam 32. A seam length between the seam boundary point 17a and the next adjacent allocation seam position P1 is 35% of the total length L of the joint seam 32. A distance between the two joint joint positions P1, P2 is 40% of the total length L and a distance between the assignment Stitching position P2 and the other stitching seaming point 17b of the seam 32 adjacent to this stitching seam position P2 is 25% of the total length L.

For the correct sewing of the fastening tape 13 corresponding to the respective clothing size Gx of the fabric part 12, sewing control data generated by a production method is used. For this purpose, first a teach-in sewing, in which the seam 32 is divided into a plurality of seam sections, which in the Fig. 4 not shown are. Before or after this teach-in sewing, the assignment seam positions P1, P2 are assigned on the seam 32. This allocation is based on the result of a preparatory analysis of a seam course optimized according to empirical values or a size graduation of courses of the seam 32 optimized for different clothing sizes, optimized according to empirical values. The assignment seam positions P1, P2 are assigned independently of the division of the seam 32 into the majority of the seam sections, for example via a teach-in sewing.

In a next step, the assignment seam positions P1, P2 are assigned assignment sewing parameter values. For example Fig. 4 the assigned sewing parameter values are sheet values and / or crimp values and / or grading values. The further generation method will be described below with reference to the example of an assignment of grading values. The grading values are again assigned to the assignment seam positions P1, P2 either on the basis of empirical values, that is to say based on experience, by how much the seam 32 changes between the seam ends 17a, 17b between successive clothing sizes in length, or by means of teach-in sewing processes in which the seam 32 is sewn for different clothing sizes. The assignment seam position P 1 can be assigned, for example, a grade value 3% and the assignment seam position P 2, for example a grade value 4%.

In the production process, it is checked on which of the seam sections created during the splitting of the seam at least one allocation seam position lies. Subsequently, the assignment sewing parameter value, that is to say the degree value in the example described, is assigned to the seam sections resulting during the division, on which the respective assignment seam position P1, P2 is located. This is done depending on which assignment seam position P1, P2 is on the currently considered seam section. The one seam section on which the assignment seam position P1 lies is obtained in the example Fig. 4 that is, the degree value 3% and the seam portion on which the assignment seam position P2 is located receive the grade value 4%.

After the above-mentioned teach-in sewing for splitting the seam into the seam sections, the length of the individual seam sections for the teach-in clothing size is known. Based on this, it is now possible with the grading values assigned to the individual seam sections to determine which lengths the seam sections resulting from the division have in other than the teach-in clothing size.

With the sewing control data generated in this way, the seam 32 can now be automatically sewn as a sequence of the seam sections resulting from the division. In this case, either a starting point 17a at one end of the seam 32 or a starting point 17b at the other end of the seam 32 can be used as the sewing start point 17, so that the seam portions are arranged in the appropriate sequence a1, b1, c1 or in the order c1, b1 , a1 are sewn.

As already explained above, the seam sections may in turn be assigned different values of sewing parameters, for example different section grading values or different fullnesses.

Depending on the production method for the sewing control data, the percentage aspect ratios of the lengths la1, lb1, lc1 of the Also differentiate above for a sample clothing size given percentages.

In the above production method for the sewing control data, the specification of a total grading value was assumed in each case, in the example of the above Table 1 of the overall grading value 3.4%.

An alternative generation method for the sewing control data, which manages without such a specification of a total grading value, will be described below. Here, first, a first reference clothing size is selected, for example, the clothing size G4. Sewing control data is then generated for this reference garment size G4. In any case, the sewing control data includes the lengths la1, ... of the seam portions a1, ... The sewing control data may be generated by a first teach-in sewing at the reference garment size G4, respectively Teach-in sewing stitched seam section lengths la1, ... are stored in the memory module 25.

Another reference garment size, such as garment size G9, is then selected. Sewing control data is then generated for the further reference clothing size G9. These further sewing control data again include at least the lengths la1,... Of the seam sections of the further reference clothing size G9. This generation of the further sewing control data at the further reference clothing size G9 can, in turn, be effected by a teach-in sewing in accordance with what has already been explained above in connection with the first reference clothing size G4. In contrast to generating the sewing control data at the first reference garment size G4, in which not only the seam section lengths la1, ... but also the further sewing parameters assigned to these seam sections a1, ... can be changed by default or calculation, then only the seam section lengths are produced when generating the sewing control data at the further reference clothing size G9 la1, ... created and saved. The further sewing parameters associated with the seam sections a1,... Remain unchanged during the generation of the further sewing control data in this further reference clothing size G9.

Based on the generated sewing control data at the two reference clothing sizes, the sewing control data for the other clothing sizes are then calculated in the calculation module 30 and predefined for processing by the control device 24. The other clothing sizes are those clothing sizes that differ from the reference clothing sizes G4, G9. In addition to the seam section lengths la1, ... for these other clothing sizes, which can then be calculated and specified completely without specifying percentage grading values, in principle other sewing parameter values can also be predefined, for example parameter values for a curve radius value, for a crimp value or for a thread tension. The specification of other sewing parameter values except the seam section lengths la1, ... is not mandatory, but the sewing parameter values can also be retained. If, in the above example, a seam section length lb1 for the reference clothing size G4 is 120 mm and for the further reference clothing size G9 is 150 mm, the seam section length lb1 for the intermediate clothing sizes G5 to G8 is calculated by equidistant division, so that for these intermediate clothing sizes G5 to G8, the seam section lengths lb1 to 126 mm, 132 mm, 138 mm and 144 mm.

In this alternative production method for the sewing control data, even for more than two reference clothing sizes, the sewing control data may be generated by, for example, teach-in sewing. If more than two reference clothing sizes are used, a corresponding increase in the number of supporting points in the calculation and presetting of the sewing control data for the other clothing sizes results in further improvements in accuracy in the sewing parameters for the further clothing sizes.

Based on Fig. 5 to 8 Hereinafter, another example of a generating method for generating sewing control data for executing a sewing program and an operating method for creating a seam will be described. Components and functions discussed above in connection with the Fig. 1 to 4 and Tables 1 to 4 have been described, bear the same reference numerals and the same designations and will not be discussed again in detail below.

Fig. 5 shows in one too Fig. 3 similar representation of a jacket part 12, with a in the Fig. 5 not shown right sleeve to be sewn. On the seam for stitching the jacket part with the sleeve part, a total of three assignment seam positions P1, P2 and P3 are assigned. Starting from a sewing reference point 33, which is at the same time a sewing start point 17 at the in the Fig. 5 schematically illustrated garment size, a length of the seam between the sewing reference point 33 and the assignment seam position P 1 30% of a total length L of the seam.

A seam length between the assignment seam positions P1 and P2 is 15% of the total length L. A seam length between the assignment seam positions P2 and P3 is 30% of the total length L. A seam length between the assignment seam position P3 and the sewing reference point 33 is accordingly 25% of the total length L. Each of the assignment seam positions P 1 to P 3, as described above in connection with the Fig. 4 already explained, assigned a sewing parameter. This may be a section grade value, but may also be another sewing parameter, for example a multiply value or a curl value or a radius of curvature value.

According to the embodiment Fig. 5 the reference point 33 simultaneously represents the sewing start point 17.

For generating sewing control data, starting from the sewing start point 17, the seam is divided into a plurality of seam sections during a teach-in sewing. As above in connection with the Fig. 4 already explained, the assigned assignment seam positions in P1 to P3 are assigned corresponding sewing parameters. As above also in connection with the Fig. 3 As already explained, the assigned sewing parameters are then assigned to the seam sections resulting from the division of the seam, on which there is at least one assignment seam position. This again takes place depending on which assignment seam position P 1 to P 3 lies on the currently considered seam section which has resulted during the division.

In the subsequent, automated sewing operation takes place when changing between two successive seam sections, z. B. a1 / b1, b1 / c1, c1 / d1, an automatic change of the sewing parameter on the new Seam section associated parameter value. When changing to the seam portion where the assignment seam position P1 is located, for example, a radius of curvature value or a curling value assigned to this assignment seam position P1 is set. This ensures that sewing takes place in the area of the assignment seam position with the optimum sewing parameters there.

The assignment seam positions may be as described above in connection with FIG Fig. 4 already explained, also grading values are assigned. Starting from, for example, splitting the seam into a plurality of seam sections by a teach-in sewing at a basic clothing size, the seam section lengths for the other clothing sizes can then be calculated on the basis of the grading values assigned to the seam sections via the assignment seam positions P1 to P3 and when sewing the respective clothing size retrieved and used. In this case, those generating process steps can be used, which in connection with the Fig. 2 and Tables 1 to 4 have already been explained.

A change between the parameter seam sections a1 to d1 is detected during operation sewing, ie after the teach-in sewing, on the basis of a determination of the sewn sewing path, starting from the sewing reference point 33. This determination can be made for example by measuring the sewing distance.

The positions and lengths la1 to ld1 of the parameter seam sections a1 to d1 and the associated sewing parameters are stored in the memory module 25 of the sewing machine 1.

The measuring of the sewing path is again performed by the detection module 26.

The changeover takes place again with the changeover module 29.

Fig. 6 shows the situation for sewing the jacket part 12 with the left sleeve part. Here is sewn in the opposite direction of rotation as when sewing the right sleeve part.

On the seam between the jacket part 12 and the left sleeve part are in the execution after Fig. 6 in turn assigned the three assignment seam positions P1, P2 and P3. Like a comparison with the Fig. 5 results, these assignment seam positions P 1 to P3 on the seam after Fig. 6 arranged at the same relative positions as in the example below Fig. 5 , This is not mandatory. Another, free positioning of the assignment seam positions P 1 to P 3 is possible. Starting from the sewing reference point 33, a length of the seam up to the assignment seam position P3 is 25% of the total length L of the seam. The length of the seam between the assignment seam positions P3 and P2 is 30% of the total length L. The length of the seam between the assignment seam positions P2 and P1 is 15% of the total length L and the length between the assignment seam position P1 and the seam. Reference point 33 is again 30% of the total length L.

Fig. 6 again shows the situation in which the sewing reference point 33 coincides with the sewing start point 17 in the preparatory teach-in sewing. It takes place after the assignment of the sewing parameters to the seam sections resulting from the teach-in division according to their position relative to the assignment seam positions P1 to P3 Fig. 6 to sew with automatic parameter change, as described above in connection with Fig. 5 already explained.

Based on FIGS. 7 and 8 is a variant of sewing the left sleeve with the jacket part 12 after Fig. 6 explained, in which a starting point 17 'with respect to the reference point 33 is shifted by 50% of the total length L of the seam.

The assignment seam positions P1 to P3 and their parameter assignment, starting from the reference point 33, also follow the sewing process FIGS. 7 and 8 unchanged. The Nähparameter- change between the seam sections takes place when sewing, starting from the shifted starting point 17 ', based on a determination of a sewing distance between the sewing reference point 33 and the sewing start point 17. This determination, for example, by entering the sewing start point 17 means Tapping a point on a schematic representation of the seam on a display 34 of the sewing machine 1 (see. Fig. 1 ), which is in signal communication with the control device 24.

When after the FIGS. 7 and 8 selected starting point 17 'results in this determination that the starting point 17' is shifted by 50% of the total length L of the seam with respect to the reference point 33. When sewing in the left sleeve, the direction of rotation of the sewing stitch sewing direction becomes less than that of the sewing stitch Fig. 6 maintained. It thus follows that after 5% of the total length L of the seam the assignment seam position P2 lies, after another 15% of the total length L of the seam, the assignment seam position P1 and after another 55% of the length L the assignment seam position P3. Between the assignment seam position P3 and the shifted sewing start point 17 'remain 25% of the total length L of Seam. According to the start point shift, in the generation of the sewing control data, an assignment of the sewing parameter values assigned to the assignment seam positions P1 to P3 is made depending on which assignment seam position P 1 to P3 on the now starting from the shifted one Sewing start position 17 ', currently considered seam section is located.

Fig. 9 clarified in one too Fig. 3 similar representation optimized Nähparameterverhältnisse along a seam for a right sleeve. Shown are according to empirical values along the seam parameters to be set around the edge contour 14. A sewing direction is in the Fig. 9 Starting from the sewing start point 17 has in a first seam section about up to half the seam length in an outerwear front part 35 to a shoulder seam 36 a Kräuselwert a low, first value K1 which is indicated by a slightly undulating wavy line. Corresponding to the low crimp value K1, the sleeve along the seam has a low fullness compared to the fabric of the front part 35. A second half of the seam between the sewing start point 17 and the shoulder seam 36 has a higher curl value K2, which is shown in FIG Fig. 9 is indicated by a stronger wavy line. Directly in the area of the shoulder seam 36, the crimp value can have the value 0 over a short seam section. In the course of the seam following this, the crimp value again has the higher value K2, which corresponds to a greater fullness of the sleeve compared to the fabric of an outer clothing back piece 37. Approximately symmetrical to the course of the parameters in the front part 35, the curl value changes from the higher value K2 to the lower value K1. In the area of one shoulder seam opposite lying outerwear side portion 38 is the Kräuselwert 0. This also applies to the area of the seam around the sewing start point 17th

Approximately where the lower Kräuselwert K1 is present, which are in connection with the Fig. 3 already explained radius seam sections 19 and 22 with the radius of curvature value "large feed sheet". In the seam areas with the large crimp value K2, the radius seam sections 20, 21 lie with the sheet radius value "small feed sheet", ie feed sheet with a small radius.

In the Fig. 9 the parameter variant is shown in which also in the area of the shoulder seam 36 there is a small feed arc, ie a corresponding radius of curvature value. Alternatively, here too, as in connection with the Fig. 3 explained, in the area of the shoulder seam 36, a parameter seam section with the arc radius value "no feed sheet", ie a straight seam course lie.

In addition to the distribution of the Kräuselwerte K and the Bogenradiuswerte, the optimum seam course, for example, the distribution to Fig. 9 For a complete set of sewing control data, the information about the seam section lengths resulting from a first set of seam section lengths at a base size for all other clothing sizes, ie the grading values, also belong to a complete set of sewing control data.

• Bei einer ersten Variante, die vorstehend insbesondere im Zusammenhang mit den Gradierwerten sowie mit den Fig. 4 ff. bereits erläutert wurde, wird zur Vorbereitung des eigentlichen Betriebsnähens eine Nahtaufteilung in eine Mehrzahl von Nahtabschnitten durchgeführt, was vorstehend am Beispiel eines vorbereitenden Teach-In-Nähens erläutert wurde. Die Näh-Steuerungsdaten werden hierbei für eine Beispielnaht, insbesondere für eine Bekleidungsgröße, komplett erzeugt. Ein Beispiel hierfür ist die Zuweisung von Gradierwerten, um aus einer vorbereitend genähten Teach-In-Bekleidungsgröße alle anderen Nahtabschnittslängen berechnet werden. Beim Betriebsnähen ist dann von vornherein die Abfolge der Nahtabschnitte mit den diesen bereits zugeordneten Nähparametern in der Nähsteuerung abgelegt.

With the above in connection with the Fig. 1 to 8 already described production and operating method, an automatic sewing is made possible, which comes as close as possible to an optimized parameter distribution. Here are two fundamentally different process variants to distinguish:

• In a first variant, the above in particular in connection with the Gradierwerten and with the Fig. 4 As already explained, a seam splitting into a plurality of seam sections is carried out in preparation for the actual operational sewing, which was explained above using the example of a preparatory teach-in sewing. The sewing control data are hereby completely generated for an example seam, in particular for a clothing size. An example of this is the assignment of grading values in order to calculate all other seam section lengths from a pre-fabricated teach-in garment size. During sewing, the sequence of the seam sections with the sewing parameters already assigned to them is then stored in the sewing control from the outset.

• Alternativ können die Nähparameter, wie vorstehend beispielsweise im Zusammenhang mit der Fig. 3 bereits erläutert, schon während des Betriebsnähens zugewiesen werden. Ein Vorbereitungs-Nähvorgang, insbesondere ein Teach-In-Nähen zur Erzeugung von Näh-Steuerungsdaten, kann entfallen. Dort wird insbesondere ohne exakte Kenntnis der gesamten Nahtlänge bei einem Teach-In-Nähen eine Parameterzuweisung für die während dem Teach-In-Nähen vorgenommene Aufteilung der Naht in Nahtabschnitte vorgenommen.

Thus, first the splitting of the seam into the seam sections takes place and then the assignment of the sewing parameters to the seam sections.

• Alternatively, the sewing parameters, as discussed above, for example, in connection with the Fig. 3 already explained, already assigned during sewing. A preparation-sewing process, in particular a teach-in sewing for the production of sewing control data, can be omitted. There, in particular without exact knowledge of the total seam length during a teach-in sewing, a parameter assignment is made for the division of the seam into seam sections made during the teach-in sewing.

Thus, an assignment of the sewing parameters to the seam sections takes place during the seam division into the seam sections. This alternative assignment and assignment method can be used, for example, for arc radius or crimp values or even at thread tension values and / or other sewing parameters are used.

Based on 10 to 12 For example, various examples of splitting the seam into a plurality of operating seam portions that may occur in a teach-in sewing and from which the respective sewing operation is performed will be explained.

Fig. 10 shows a splitting of the seam into a total of three operating seam sections a1, b1 and c1. Since only three operating seam sections a1 to c1 are available, only a limited assignment of the sewing parameters to these operating seam sections a1 to c1 is possible. This is in the Fig. 10 analogous to the representation of Fig. 9 illustrated. The operating seam portion a1 has about 20% of the total length L of the seam from the sewing start point 17. The operational seam portion b1 has approximately 35% of the total length L of the seam and extends symmetrically to the shoulder seam 36, which lies approximately in the middle in the operating seam portion b1. The operational seam portion c1 represents the remaining 45% of the length L of the seam.

In the operational seam sections a1 and c1, the crimp value K = 0 and a radius of curvature value "large feed arc" are present. In the operational seam section b1, there is a crimp value between the crimping values K1 and K2 described above in connection with FIG Fig. 9 were explained and a Bogenradiuswert "small feed arc".

Fig. 11 shows the subdivision of the seam, again starting from the sewing start point 17, in five operating seam sections a1, b1, c1, d1 and e1. The working seam portion a1 has 5% of the length L of the entire seam. The subsequent operating seam section b1 has 15% of the total length L of Seam. The subsequent operational seam section c1 has 25% of the total length L of the seam. The subsequent operational seam section d1 has 15% of the total length of the seam and the last operational seam section e1 has 40% of the total length L of the seam. In the seam section a1, the crimp value K = 0 and it is sewn without feed sheet. In the operation seam portion b1, the crimp value is K1 and it is sewn with the sheet radius value "large feed sheet". In the operation seam portion c1, the curling value is K2, and it is sewn with the sheet radius value "small feed sheet". In the operating seam section d1, the crimp value is again K1 and it is in turn sewn with the sheet radius value "large feed sheet". In the operating seam section e1, the crimp value K = 0 and it is sewn without feed sheet. In the operating seam section c1, the shoulder seam 36 again lies approximately in the center. The operational seam portions b1 and d1 are approximately symmetrical with each other.

Fig. 12 shows a division of the seam in a total of seven operating seam sections a1, b1, c1, d1, e1, f1 and g1. Correspondingly finer a distribution of the sewing parameters can take place on these operating seam sections a1 to g1, as again in the Fig. 12 illustrated. The seam section lengths of the operational seam sections a1 to g1 are 5%, 20%, 10%, 5%, 10%, 10% and 40% of the total length L of the seam. The operating seam section d1 lies again in the region of the shoulder seam 36.

Along the operational seam sections a1, d1 and g1, the crimp value K = 0. Along the operating seam sections b1 and f1, the crimp value is K1. Along the operational seam sections c1 and e1, the crimp value is K2. Along the operating seam sections a1 and g1 is sewn without feed sheet. Along the operating seam sections b1 and f1 is with sewn the Bogenradiuswert "large feed sheet". Along the operating seam sections c1, d1 and e1, the sheet radius value "small feed sheet" is sewn.

The subdivision of the entire seam into the operating seam sections is freely specified by the operator. The sewing control data must be specified at each division of the seam in the seam sections so that they match an optimized parameter distribution according to the Fig. 9 as close as possible.

One way of producing sewing control data, which ensures this, has already been mentioned above in connection with the Fig. 4 to 8 explained. Table 5 below shows grading values assigned to the operating seam sections according to this method. Table 5 seam section Fig. 10 Fig. 11 Fig. 12 a1 0 0 0 b1 GW1 + GW2 0 0 c1 GW3 GW1 + GW2 LV1 d1 --- GW3 0 e1 --- 0 GW2 f1 --- --- 0 g1 --- --- GW3

This assignment of the grading values GW thus takes into account which assignment seam positions P1 to P3 on the respectively currently considered seam section a1 ... in the partitions according to the 10 to 12 lies.

When splitting after Fig. 10 Both assignment seam positions P 1 and P 2 are on the operation seam portion b 1. The assignment seam position g3 is on the operation seam portion c1. Accordingly, the grading values GW are assigned to these seam sections as shown in the column " Fig. 10 5. The assignment of the crimping values K1, K2 and the radius of curvature values already explained above can also be effected in accordance with the position of the assignment seam positions P1 to P3 on the respectively currently considered seam section a1 to c1 P2 are on the operational seam portion b1, this operation seam portion b1 is assigned neither the crimp value K1 of the allocation seam position P 1 nor the crimp value K2 of the allocation seam position P2, but an average crimp value, for example, (K1 + K2) / 2.

At the seam section division according to Fig. 11 The assignment seam positions in P1 and P2 are both on the seam portion c1. The assignment seam position P3 is on the seam portion d1. This is followed by the assignment of the grading values GW to the seam sections a1 to e1, as in the column " Fig. 11 specified in Table 5.

At the seam section division according to Fig. 12 is the assignment seam position P 1 on the seam portion c1. The assignment seam position P2 is on the seam portion e1 and the assignment seam position P3 is on the seam portion g1. Accordingly, the grading values GW1, GW2, GW3 are assigned as shown in the column " Fig. 12 "of Table 5 specified. Of course, other sewing parameters, for example the radius of curvature values or the crimping values, can also be assigned instead of the grading values GW.

As far as the approximate length of the entire seam and also the clothing size is known, which can be selected by appropriate default in the machine control, the sewing parameter assignment can be done online during the teach-in sewing. This is hereafter for the variants "right sleeve" and "left sleeve" on the basis of FIGS. 13 and 14 explained again, wherein a variant of the operating method will be described, the above in connection with Fig. 3 already discussed. The seam is first split into the parameter seam sections 19, 20, 21, 22 and another, last seam section between the parameter seam sections 22 and 19, starting from the sewing start point 17. In contrast to the division of the sewing parameter sections in the example Fig. 3 the parameter seam sections 20 and 21 are combined to form a combined seam section to which the arc radius value "small feed arc" is completely assigned. From the sewing starting point 17 is sewn with the radius of curvature value, which is the first parameter seam section, so the first radius seam section 19, assigned, so with the radius of curvature value "large feed sheet". Once a change between two operating seam sections, which in the FIGS. 13 and 14 are not shown, instead of taking place in the parameter seam section 19, but in a subsequent parameter seam section, the radius of curvature value is changed over to the radius of curvature value assigned to this new parameter seam section. Since it is expected that the operating seam portions have a certain length, the boundaries between the parameter seam portions 19 to 22 with respect to the sewing direction 18, compared with those in the FIGS. 13 and 14 each illustrated leading to optimized arc radius value seam areas. This ensures that when an operating seam section ends after this boundary between two parameter seam sections, for example between the parameter seam sections 19 on the one hand and 20, 21 on the other hand, switching the radius of curvature value, in the example described, from the arc radius value "Large feed arc "to the Bogenradiuswert" small feed sheet "in the seam area is carried out at which should also take place with the optimized Nähparameterzuordnung this change.

In the control data generation variant for the left sleeve Fig. 14 a corresponding division of the seam in radius seam sections 19, 20, 21 and 22, this time with respect to the direction of rotation of the sewing direction 18 counterclockwise relative to the optimized Bogenradiuswert-seam areas with leading transitions.

The methods described above are used especially when sewing sleeves into a body outer garment piece without pre-crimping and in particular when producing jackets.

Claims (15)

1. Method for generating sewing control data for processing a sewing program depending on the garment size in the course of which a seam comprising a plurality of successive seam sections (a1/a2, b1/b2, c1/c2, d1/d2, ...) is sewn , the method comprising the following steps:

   - selecting a garment base size (G4),

   - generating sewing control data for the base size (G4), said sewing control data including the lengths of the seam sections (a1/a2, b1/b2, c1/c2, d1/d2, ...),

   - generating sewing control data for the other garment sizes (G1 to G3, G5 to G10) that deviate from the base size (G4), said process comprising the following sub-steps:

   -- presetting a total grading value by which the entire seam lengthens in successive garment sizes (G1/G2, G2/G3, G3/G4, ...),

   -- calculating (and presetting), depending on the total grading value, sectional grading values by which at least some seam sections (a1/a2, b1/b2, c1/c2, d1/d2, ...) lengthen in the successive garment sizes (G1/G2, G2/G3, G3/G4, ...).
2. Method according to claim 1, characterised by the following additional steps:

   - determining at least one additional grading value by which the seam lengthens, depending on a selected garment size (G4), in successive garment sizes (G4/G5, G5/G6, ...) that are larger than said selected garment size (G4).
3. Method according to claim 2, characterised in that in order to determine the additional grading value, at least one sectional grading value is determined by which a seam section (a1/a2, b1/b2, c1/c2, d1/d2, ...) lengthens in the successive garment sizes (G1/G2, G2/G3, G3/G4, ...) that are larger than the selected garment size (G4).
4. Method according to claim 3, characterised in that depending on the additional grading value, additional sectional grading values are calculated and preset,
   by which at least some seam sections (a1/a2, b1/b2, c1/c2, d1/d2, ...) lengthen in the successive garment sizes (G4/G5, G5/G6, ...) that are larger than the selected garment size (G4).
5. Method according to any one of claims 2 to 4, characterised in that in order to determine the additional grading value, a teach-in sewing operation is performed for a garment size (G9) that is larger than the selected garment size (G4).
6. Method according to any one of claims 2 to 5, characterised by the following additional method steps:

   - determining of at least another grading value by which the seam lengthens, depending on another selected garment size (G7), in successive garment sizes (G7/G8, G8/G9, G9/G10) that are larger than the additional selected garment size (G7).
7. Method according to claim 6, characterised in that in order to determine the additional grading value, at least a sectional grading value is determined by which a seam section (a1, b1, c1, d1, ...) lengthens in the successive garment sizes (G7/G8, G8/G9, G9/G10) that are larger than the additional selected garment size (G7).
8. Method according to claim 6 or 7, characterised in that depending on the additional grading value, additional sectional grading values are calculated and preset by which at least some seam sections (a1/a2, b1/b2, c1/c2, d1/d2, ...) lengthen in the successive garment sizes (G7/G8, G8/G9, ...) that are larger than the additional selected garment size (G7).
9. Method according to any one of claims 6 to 8, characterised in that in order to determine the additional grading value, a teach-in sewing operation is performed for a garment size that is larger than the additional selected garment size (G7).
10. Method according to any one of claims 1 to 9, characterised in that at least some sectional grading values, which are based on the length of the respective seam section (a1/a2, b1/b2, c1/c2, d1/d2, ...), differ from the total grading value, which is based on the length of the entire seam.
11. Method according to claim 10, characterised in that at least one of the sectional grading values has the value zero.
12. Method for generating sewing control data for processing a sewing program depending on a garment size in the course of which a seam including a plurality of successive seam sections (a1/a2, b1/b2, c1/c2, d1/d2, ...) is sewn, the method comprising the following steps:

    - selecting a first reference garment size (G4);

    - generating sewing control data for the first reference garment size (G4), said sewing control data including the lengths of the seam sections (a1/a2, b1/b2, c1/c2, d1/d2, ...);

    - selecting at least one additional reference garment size (G9);

    - generating sewing control data for the additional reference garment size, said sewing control data including the lengths of the seam sections (a1/a1, b1/b2, c1/c2, d1/d2, ...);

    - calculating and presetting the sewing control data for the other garment sizes (G1 to G3, G5 to G8, G10) that differ from the reference garment sizes (G4, G9).
13. Method according to claim 12, characterised in that in order to generate the sewing control data for the reference garment sizes (G4, G9), a teach-in sewing operation is performed for at least one of the reference garment sizes (G4, G9).
14. Method of operating a sewing machine (1), the method comprising the following steps:

    - generating sewing control data according to any one of claims 1 to 13;

    - identifying the current garment size to be sewn;

    - sewing using the sewing control data of the identified garment size.
15. Sewing machine (1) for executing a method according to claim 14, the method comprising

    - a computing module (30) for calculating the sewing control data;

    - a control unit (24);

    - a storage module (25) for the sewing control data and the seam section lengths (1a1/1a2, 1b1/1b2, 1c1/1c2, 1d1/1d2, ...) for the respective garment sizes,

    - a detection module (26) for detecting the respective current sewing position in the seam,

    - a change-over module (29) for automatically changing over a sewing operation parameter when changing between two successive seam sections (a1/a2, b1/b2, c1/c2, d1/d2, ...).

Images