CN104141202A - Method for generating sewing control data for processing a sewing program - Google Patents

Method for generating sewing control data for processing a sewing program Download PDF

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Publication number
CN104141202A
CN104141202A CN201410190794.2A CN201410190794A CN104141202A CN 104141202 A CN104141202 A CN 104141202A CN 201410190794 A CN201410190794 A CN 201410190794A CN 104141202 A CN104141202 A CN 104141202A
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China
Prior art keywords
linear slit
sewing
section
rank value
garment dimension
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Granted
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CN201410190794.2A
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Chinese (zh)
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CN104141202B (en
Inventor
T·维尔德贝尔格
M·巴赫曼
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Durkep Adler Co.,Ltd.
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Duerkopp Adler AG
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Publication of CN104141202A publication Critical patent/CN104141202A/en
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    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D05—SEWING; EMBROIDERING; TUFTING
    • D05B—SEWING
    • D05B19/00—Programme-controlled sewing machines
    • D05B19/02—Sewing machines having electronic memory or microprocessor control unit
    • D05B19/04—Sewing machines having electronic memory or microprocessor control unit characterised by memory aspects
    • D05B19/10—Arrangements for selecting combinations of stitch or pattern data from memory ; Handling data in order to control stitch format, e.g. size, direction, mirror image

Abstract

The invention relates to a method for generating sewing control data for processing a sewing program depending on a clothing size, comprising: sewing a plurality of successive seams of seam portions during the sewing program process, and firstly selecting a clothing base size; generating sewing control data for the base size, the sewing control data comprising lengths of the seam portions; generating sewing control data for other clothing sizes different from the base size; specifying a total grading value, the whole seams extending the total grading value for the successive clothing sizes; and calculating (and specifying) section grading values according to the total grading value, at least some seam portions respectively extending the section grading values for the successive clothing sizes. The results is that a generating method through which the sewing control data are better adapted to the different clothing sizes.

Description

For generating the method for the sewing control data of carrying out sewing process
Technical field
The present invention relates to a kind of for generating the method for the sewing control data in order to carry out the sewing process relevant to garment dimension.In addition, the invention still further relates to a kind of Sewing machines operation method that utilizes this generation method and a kind of for carrying out the Sewing machines of this operation method.
Background technology
The method of controlling data for generating sewing is disclosed by DE199 20 350C1 and DE10 2007 003721A1.According in the method for prior art, between the linear slit portion section of different garment size, the corresponding linear slit portion segment length that makes changes a constant absolute parameter difference.Figure 14 of DE10 2007 003721A1 has provided the example for this, wherein in hurdle 71, has provided this definitely constant length difference.This length difference is called as " ratio correction value ".Corresponding constant length difference---is called rank value GR---according to providing in the form of Fig. 5 of DE199 20 350C1 in described document.DE34 90 775C2 have described the device of the difference formula feeding control in a kind of Sewing machines.
Summary of the invention
The object of the invention is to, provide a kind of method of controlling data for generating sewing, wherein sewing control data are mated from different garment dimensions better.
According to the present invention, described object realizes by method according to claim 1 and method according to claim 12.
Recognize according to the present invention, in principle can be by providing unique rank value, be total rank value and obtaining for the better coupling garment dimension different from key dimension, linear slit portion segment length, described total rank value understands and has extended great value for the whole linear slit of garment dimension in succession specifically.Total rank value is not absolute constant length difference, and is in fact a proportionality coefficient, thereby in the larger garment dimension that whole linear slit is grown therein, obtains than absolute large linear slit extension in less garment dimension.By calculating related to this and further specified part section rank value or extend share---the prolongation share of single linear slit portion elongated segment, obtain the clear and definite assignment of each linear slit portion elongated segment.Can specify for each garment dimension the length of each linear slit portion section by this prolongation share.In the simplest situation, just to account for the length share of length of whole linear slit the same with linear slit portion section by share for portion's section rank value.In this case, all linear slits portion section has extended total rank value pro rata.Alternatively, also can specify different portion's section rank value.At this, must observe as downstream condition: the prolongation of whole linear slit is corresponding to total rank value.Portion's section rank value can be proportional with total rank value, and this total rank value can be corresponding to value " 100% ".Can independently of each other, change total rank value on the one hand, change on the other hand the proportional distribution to portion's section rank value.For example, if portion's section rank value is assigned to three linear slit portion sections, the allocative decision that total rank value is dispensed to portion's section rank value can change to 40%/10%/50% from 30%/30%/40%.Definitely or relatively regulation rank value is all feasible.Sewing is controlled being created on of data and has been specified automatically to carry out after key dimension data and total rank value.Can cancel manual input sewing and control data, for example linear slit portion segment length of manual input and Size dependence, this has alleviated operating personnel's burden.Can so design this generation method, operating personnel have been no longer necessary for have prepared sewing and input ranked data completely.Sewing is controlled data and is generated on backstage completely ideally, works thereby operating personnel needn't be the exception with the size Selection of the garment dimension corresponding to be sewed up of rank value.The regulation of key dimension data, specifies that especially the length of linear slit portion section can be sewed or be undertaken by data input by pattern model.Data input can manually or by reading numerical data be undertaken.Garment dimension can with ready-made clothes consistent size.In symmetrical clothes article, sewing is controlled data and also can be carried out independently in both sides.For example, concerning two sleeves of man's coat or Ms's coat, can generate independently sewing and control data.This generation method also can be in conjunction with neckline band (Lisierband) or pleating (Vorkraeuseln) use in advance.Neckline band is the example of sewing materials part to be sewed up.The linear slit portion section of two sewing materials parts sewing up each other can have identical or different length.Concerning neckline band, the length of the linear slit portion section of neckline band is less than respectively the linear slit portion section of attaching troops to a unit of sewing materials part.Concerning pre-pleating, accurately prepare sewing materials part by means of sewing thread, wherein result is piecemeal corresponding to rank value this sewing materials part of sewing, described rank value is attached troops to a unit in corresponding linear slit portion section.Total rank value may be prescribed as empirical value.Provided sewing process and/or calibration sewing sequence can be provided in total rank value of regulation.In the time of the total rank value of regulation, can consider to generate the result of sewing control data in different benchmark garment dimensions.It can be for optimizing total rank value to be specified iteratively.Also can consider the non-linear dependencies about sewing parameter and garment dimension sequence at this.Can optimally specify in this way total rank value to be specified.
By determining other rank value according to claim 2,3 or 4, the whole span of different garment dimensions can be divided into two size ranges that are suitable for different rank value.Other rank value can be other total rank value or one or more section rank value.First other rank value can distinguish with total rank value of regulation.In the time that the length of linear slit portion section is mated with each garment dimension, obtaining corresponding precision improves, because by be divided into multiple size ranges provide more control point for, to as far as possible accurately mate the length of linear slit portion section and the non-linear dependencies of garment dimension.In alternative generation method, other rank value so works, with this other rank value relatively, in the garment dimension in succession that is less than selected garment dimension, correspondingly shorten linear slit portion section.From key dimension, can realize generation method towards the direction of larger garment dimension or towards less garment dimension direction.In a word, can be by specifying that the linear slit portion segment length that other rank value is further used in different garment size more accurately mates with setting.Especially in portion's section rank value, also can in its regulation, consider the sewing process and/or the calibration sewing sequence that provide, as what illustrated in conjunction with total rank value in the neutralization of other rank value above.Actual model form can closer mate with ideal model in this way.
For its at least one selected garment dimension of having determined rank value can be following garment dimension: it is neither maximum garment dimension to be considered that neither be minimum.That is to say, be not to carry out interpolation between minimum and maximum garment dimension in the time determining other rank value, but used at least one control point between minimum and maximum garment dimension.
Again advantageously alleviate operating personnel's burden for the pattern model sewing of determining other rank value, because can so design generation method, needn't manually generate rank value.In process in automation in pattern model sewing, obtain linear slit portion segment length for pattern model garment dimension.
Have corresponding advantage according to claim 6,7,8 generation method, wherein can also determine other, i.e. the 3rd rank value in a word, wherein it can be again other total rank value, or one or more section rank value.The span of possible garment dimension can be divided into three scopes of garment dimension, wherein altogether can use three different rank value.Corresponding also applicable herein, in alternative method, the 3rd rank value is in addition applicable to be less than the garment dimension of other selected garment dimension, and wherein other rank value has specified the shortening of linear slit portion section.
The advantage of pattern model sewing according to claim 9 is corresponding to those advantages that above illustrated in conjunction with claim 5.
In the opposing party's flexible program of generation method, also can specify unnecessary three rank value, also can correspondingly the span of possible garment dimension be divided into the garment dimension scope more than three, wherein can use different rank value.
The variation that has realized linear slit portion segment length according to different portion's section rank value of claim 10 is mated with the further of garment dimension, and described garment dimension can mate setting better.
This situation is correspondingly applicable to according to the distribution of the classification of claim 11, and wherein the length of single linear slit portion section in no case changes.Also can realize in principle negative portion's section rank value.
According to the alternative generation method of controlling data for sewing of claim 12, can without the total rank value of regulation in the situation that, generate this sewing control data.Operating personnel do not have data input passable completely yet.Can be only that other garment dimension generates sewing control data from the control data that generate at least two benchmark garment dimensions by internal calculation.In this internal calculation, also can consider to pass through the data that provided sewing process and/or calibration sewing sequence obtain, as what above illustrated in conjunction with total rank value and other rank value.If use select more than two and for its benchmark garment dimension that has first generated sewing and control data,, concerning other garment dimension between benchmark garment dimension, obtained further accuracy improvements by correspondingly increasing the quantity at control point.
Pattern model sewing has realized and has generated simply especially the sewing control data for benchmark garment dimension.
The advantage of operation method according to claim 14 and the advantage of Sewing machines according to claim 15 are corresponding to the advantage of having illustrated with reference to generation method according to the present invention hereinbefore.In linear slit to be sewed between two sewing materials parts, the detection of each current sewing position can be undertaken by the linear slit position of optical detection reality by the counting of the linear slit needle tracking to specific length or alternatively.
Brief description of the drawings
Elaborate embodiments of the invention by accompanying drawing below.Wherein:
Fig. 1 illustrates the Sewing machines for sewing up having the sewing part of curved edge outline segment along linear slit with perspective view, wherein for the clear interior details that has saved casing member;
Fig. 2 schematically shows above dress part and sleeve part to be sewed up is divided into two routine sewing parts for the treatment of to sew up each other; And
The armhole that Fig. 3 illustrates dress sewing part illustrates operation linear slit portion section and radius linear slit portion section for dress part on this with the linear slit that is connected of affiliated sleeve part;
Fig. 4 to be similarly to show the armhole edge segments of coat sewing part with Fig. 3, wherein change portion section rank value correspondingly between different parameter linear slit portion sections;
Fig. 5 illustrates parameter linear slit portion section for portion section rank value for dress part on this with the linear slit that is connected of affiliated sleeve part with the armhole that similarly schematically shown upper dress sewing part with Fig. 3, it is illustrated in the connection linear slit place for the right sleeve, and the starting point of wherein sewing is with consistent for the sewing datum mark of parameter linear slit portion section;
Fig. 6 is similarly to show the situation that is connected linear slit for left side sleeve with Fig. 5, and the starting point of wherein sewing and the sewing datum mark for parameter linear slit portion section overlap;
Fig. 7 and 8 illustrates the upper dress part according to Fig. 6, wherein shows the situation in the time sewing up for the connection linear slit of left side sleeve, and the starting point of wherein sewing has moved 50% of whole connection linear slit length with reference to sewing datum mark along circumferential direction around armhole;
Fig. 9 is similarly to illustrate again and strongly to illustrate simplifiedly as an example of right side sleeve example for the sewing parameter value of the sleeve linear slit of optimizing with Fig. 3;
Figure 10 to 12 shows one and according to Fig. 9, sleeve linear slit is divided into the example that moves linear slit portion section, wherein shows equally associated sewing parameter;
Figure 13 is similarly to show the alternative that sleeve linear slit is divided into parameter linear slit portion section for the right sleeve with Fig. 3; And
Figure 14 is similarly to show the situation that sleeve linear slit is divided into parameter linear slit portion section for left side sleeve with Figure 13.
Detailed description of the invention
Sewing machines 1 has upper arm 2, vertical column 3 and is commonly referred to the lower body of substrate 4.Substrate 4 has the post 5 upwards towering, and therefore Sewing machines 1 is also referred to as post-type sewing machine.Alternatively, Sewing machines 1 also may be embodied as flatcar Sewing machines/platform-type Sewing machines.Rotatably mounted in arm 2 have a main shaft not being shown specifically.Be arranged on the CD-ROM drive motor 6 in substrate 4 and the tape handler that is not shown specifically in the accompanying drawings carrys out driving main shaft and then drives the main sewing parts of Sewing machines 1 by one.Can drive up and down vertically shank, this shank to be bearing in vertically in arm 2 and not shown in the accompanying drawings by main shaft and crank driving mechanism, in its bottom with pin.In Fig. 1 dotted line with 7 approximate location that represent shank.In post 5, be supported with to rotatable driving rotating shuttle in lower parts of needle.In order to sew up sewing part (referring to the sewing part in Fig. 2 and 3), by formed post 5 upside and side direction cross along sewing direction the pinhole plate 9 that post 5 stretches out and guide, pin in the region of rotating shuttle through this pinhole plate.
Bottom is moved material assembly 10 and top and is moved material assembly 11 and treat that for making the sewing part of sewing up each other moves forward along the sewing direction of Sewing machines 1.In EP1 897 984A2, describe this in detail and move material assembly.Sewing machines 1 moves material assembly 10,11 by means of these two can sew up the sewing part with bending edge contour portion section along connecting linear slit, the wherein radius of curvature of feeding camber line, be that sewing parameter can specify by sewing, this is described at EP1 897 984A2 equally.
Fig. 2 fills above part 12 and sleeve part 13 is situation about having exemplified before sewing up two sewing parts.This diagram is simplified and extremely consumingly corresponding to Fig. 3 of DE199 20 350C1.
The edge contour 14,15 of two sewing parts 12,13 has the edge contour portion section along linear slit bending to be sewed up.Unlike this, can infer according to the indicative icon of Fig. 2, these edge contours 14,15, each other for along linear slit sew up relevant edge outline segment a1/a2, b1/b2, c1/c2, d1/d2, not necessarily have identical radius of curvature, they have different radius of curvature conventionally on the contrary.These edge contour portion sections specified subsequently also referred to as " parameter linear slit portion section ", connect linear slit portion section.
Sewing up sewing part 12,13 o'clock, complete successively the section a1/a2 corresponding to edge contour portion ... parameter linear slit portion section sequence.These parameter linear slit portion sections have length l a1/a2, lb1/b2, lc1/c2, ld1/d2 ...The section la1 of parameter linear slit portion and la2, lb1 and lb2 sewing part 12,13, that in the time of sewing, be relative to each other ... conventionally do not there is identical length.For example, the common parameter linear slit section a2 of portion, the b2 of sleeve part 13 ... than the section a1 of relevant parameter linear slit portion, the b1 of upper dress part 12 ... long.
Length l a1, lb1, lc1, the ld1 of the parameter linear slit portion section of upper dress part 12 ... conventionally differ from one another.Kindred circumstances is applicable to length l a2, the lb2 of the parameter linear slit portion section of sleeve part 13 ...
Fig. 3 is than the situation that the parameter linear slit portion section of dress part 12 is shown in more detail.Show the upper dress part 12 in the region of right side armhole 16.Be sewed along each operation linear slit portion section for the connection linear slit of unshowned sleeve part, wherein emphasized the section b1 of operation linear slit portion, c1, e1, f1, h1 and i1 at Fig. 3.The individual stitching process of the length of these operation linear slit portion sections based on operating personnel and changing.The parameter linear slit portion section that operation linear slit portion section can illustrate with aforementioned combination Fig. 2 overlaps; But this is not enforceable.Operation linear slit portion section is irrelevant with parameter linear slit portion section in principle.
The starting point 17 that starts from sewing of the connection linear slit with the upper dress part 12 of unshowned sleeve part 13.Connecting linear slit is sewed clockwise along the sewing direction 18 in Fig. 3 from then on.Except being divided into different the section a1 of operation linear slit portion, b1 ... connect linear slit outward, and be also divided into the parameter linear slit portion section sequence that form is radius linear slit portion section.For radius linear slit portion section is assigned respectively the radius of curvature value of the radius of curvature that is useful on the feeding camber line that can specify by means of Sewing machines 1.In Fig. 3, only show following radius linear slit portion section: wherein radius of curvature value has been assigned the charging radius with limited curvature.Not shown those wherein do not specify the radius linear slit portion section of feeding camber line, are not having under operating personnel's impact by means of the Sewing machines 1 linearly extended linear slit portion section of sewing out in these radius linear slit portion sections.
Connecting in the process of linear slit, exist radius linear slit portion section 19,20,21 and 22 sequences with radius of curvature value for regulation feeding camber line.At this, the radius of curvature value in radius linear slit portion section 19 and 22 has shown to have larger radius, has the feeding camber line of small curve.The radius of curvature value of the radius linear slit portion section 20,21 between radius linear slit portion section 19 and 22 shows that it has the feeding camber line of less radius of curvature, i.e. stronger the or bending larger feeding camber line of camber line.
Sequence along the radius of curvature value that connects linear slit is such: radius of curvature value is in the first area of process that connects linear slit, until first radius linear slit portion section 20 becomes " less (bending stronger) feeding camber line " value.From radius linear slit portion section 21, there is the sequence of a kind of radius linear slit portion section, wherein, in the final area of process that connects linear slit, radius of curvature value becomes " larger (bending not too strong) feeding camber line " value.
There is " less feeding camber line ", compared with there being the linear slit portion section 23 with radius of curvature value " little feeding camber line " between two radius linear slit portion sections 20,21 of the radius of curvature value of deep camber.
The linear slit portion section of the connection linear slit between linear slit starting point 17 and radius linear slit portion section 19 and the operation section a1 of linear slit portion and b1 overlap joint.Radius linear slit portion section 19 and the operation section b1 of linear slit portion and c1 overlap joint.Radius linear slit portion section 20 and the operation section c1 of linear slit portion, d1 and e1 overlap joint.Radius linear slit portion section between two radius linear slit portion sections 20 and 21, i.e. linear slit portion section 23 and the operation section e1 of linear slit portion and f1 overlap joint.Radius linear slit portion section 21 and the operation section f1 of linear slit portion, g1 and h1 overlap joint.Radius linear slit portion section 22 and the operation section h1 of linear slit portion and i1 overlap joint.Radius linear slit portion section 22 and until the radius linear slit portion's section between the remainder of the connection linear slit of linear slit starting point 17 and the operation section i1 of linear slit portion and and operation the section i1 of linear slit portion and linear slit starting point 17 between operation linear slit portion section overlap joint, closed connection linear slit terminates in described linear slit starting point place.
Sewing machines 1 has the control appliance 24 shown in simplifying in Fig. 1.Control appliance 24 has the memory module 25 for radius linear slit portion section 19,20,21 and 22 and relevant radius of curvature value.Control appliance 24 also has for detection of the detection module 26 that connects corresponding current sewing position in linear slit.This test example as can be when the known stitch length by carrying out along the needle tracking counting that connects linear slit.Alternatively, the optical detection that also can for example be undertaken actual linear slit position by optical pickocff shown in Figure 1 27.
Alternatively, in memory module 25, can be integrated with another memory cell 28 for the section a1 of storage running linear slit portion, b1 ... and a2, b2 ... length (lx1, lx2).In corresponding memory cell, store pleating value, by the section a1/a2 of operation linear slit portion, the b1/b2 that treat to sew up each other ... the relation of length obtain this pleating value.Except the regulation feeding camber line, also realize this Raff value of regulation or pleating value by means of Sewing machines 1, same as illustrating in EP1 897 984A2.
Be handled as follows the in service of Sewing machines 1: first connection linear slit is divided into radius linear slit portion section, i.e. for example radius linear slit portion section 19,20,23,21,22.Then radius of curvature value is divided and task corresponding radius linear slit portion section.According in the embodiment of Fig. 3, give the radius of curvature value of radius linear slit portion section 19 and 22 assignments " large radius of curvature, i.e. small curve ", and assign " thering is small radii value, compared with the radius of curvature of deep camber " to radius linear slit portion section 20 and 21.In other radius linear slit portion section of charging linear slit, assign " without feeding camber line " radius of curvature value.Corresponding data are stored in the memory 25,28 of control appliance 24.
Then from linear slit starting point 17 along operation the section a1/a2 of linear slit portion, b1/b2 ... carry out the stitching of sewing part 12,13.In the time converting between operation linear slit portion section in succession, for example a1/a2 and b1/b2, adjust sewing operational factor, for example already mentioned pleating value.This adjustment is carried out by means of the adjusting module 29 of control appliance 24.
In the time sewing up beginning,, from linear slit starting point 17, to thering is the initial radius of curvature value of regulation, be that the sewing part 12,13 with " without feeding camber line " radius of curvature value is sewed up at this.In the time converting between two operation linear slit portion sections in succession subsequently, for example, while conversion between the operation section a1/a2 of linear slit portion and b1/b2, as long as this conversion is carried out in a radius linear slit portion section, be its radius of curvature value being allocated as follows: this radius of curvature value departs from from the radius of curvature value of current setting, and this radius of curvature value automatically becomes the new radius of curvature value of this radius linear slit portion section.Because the conversion between the section a1/a2 of linear slit portion and b1/b2 was still carried out along connecting linear slit before the first radius linear slit portion section 19 starts, so there is not the conversion between radius of curvature value at this.
In the time converting between the operation section b1/b2 of linear slit portion and c1/c2, radius of curvature value automatically changes from radius of curvature value " without feeding camber line " towards radius of curvature value " roughing feed camber line ".Because in the interior transition having occurred between the operation section b1/b2 of linear slit portion and c1/c2 of radius linear slit portion section 19, so this adjustment is carried out automatically.Correspondingly, in the time there is transition between the operation section c1/c2 of linear slit portion and d1/d2, radius of curvature value becomes value " without feeding camber line ", because this transition is carried out in radius linear slit portion section 20.In the time there is transition between the operation section d1/d2 of linear slit portion and e1/e2, do not carry out the conversion of radius of curvature value, because this transition is also carried out in radius linear slit portion section 20.
In the time there is transition between the operation section e1/e2 of linear slit portion and f1/f2, radius of curvature value becomes value " without feeding camber line " again, because this transition is carried out in linear slit portion section 23.In an alternative linear slit program, the operation section e1/e2 of linear slit portion grows to and has covered linear slit portion section 23 completely, thereby the end of this alternative section e1/e2 of operation linear slit portion is also present in radius linear slit portion section 21, therefore in this linear slit program, do not convert in this case radius of curvature value yet.
In the embodiment illustrating, in the transition of the operation section f1/f2 of linear slit portion and g1/g2, radius of curvature value is from value " without feeding camber line " towards value " little feeding camber line " conversion.
In the embodiment shown in Fig. 3, being next time automatically adjusted at while conversion between operation the section h1/h2 of linear slit portion and i1/i2 of radius of curvature value carried out, until radius of curvature value " roughing feed camber line ".
When the operation section i1 of linear slit portion with until while there is conversion between the last operation linear slit portion section of linear slit starting point 17, radius of curvature value converts towards value " without feeding camber line " from value " compared with roughing feed camber line " again.
Radius of curvature value so with correspondingly in sewing, be positioned at above the edge contour of sewing part---normally sleeve part 13---mate, consider the difference of the edge contour in the corresponding current section x1/x2 of operation linear slit portion to be sewed up between two sewing parts 12,13 by means of the feeding camber line of respective settings.
Can connection linear slit be divided into radius linear slit portion section based on garment dimension regulation, that band is sewed up and/or the position based on linear slit starting point 17.
In addition, Sewing machines 1 also has the computing module 30 of controlling data for calculating sewing.Before can being assigned to, these sewing control data by the linear slit portion section that the division of linear slit is generated, will be described this subsequently.
Sewing machines 1 based on for complete the sewing process relevant to corresponding garment dimension, institute's sewing control data of generating and calculating and can, in the process of sewing process, sewing out one has the multiple section a1 of linear slit portion, b1 in succession ... linear slit, the connection linear slit for example, having illustrated before.Between each linear slit portion section, sewing parameter, for example portion's section rank value can change.The adjustment of sewing parameter can be at the section a1 of linear slit portion, b1 in succession ... between there is conversion and time automatically carry out.
In table 1 below, provide the example of one group of this sewing control data.Hypothesis below: connecting line sews and is divided into 5 section a1/a2 to e1/e2 of parameter linear slit portion.The parameter linear slit portion section that can certainly be divided into other quantity, for example, be divided into 5 to 11 linear slit portion sections.At this, table 1 illustrates for different the section a1/a2 of parameter linear slit portion, b1/b2 ... portion's section rank value of e1/e2 or length share and total rank value.The first row of table 1a has illustrated the ratio of portion's section rank value of parameters linear slit portion section and the length of this operation linear slit portion section.The second row of table 1a has illustrated portion's section rank value and the total length that the is connected linear slit ratio of---i.e. the length of all parameter linear slit section a1/a2 to e1/e2 of portion with---.Portion's section rank value shown in last column of his-and-hers watches 1a, portion's section rank value of each parameter linear slit portion section and the ratio of its corresponding length are mutually the same.Meet for the section a1/a2 of parameter linear slit portion: 0.38%/3.4%=50mm/450mm, wherein exemplarily provides the portion's segment length for garment dimension G4 herein.All portions section rank value and shown total rank value.
Conventionally, the portion section rank value relevant from the length of parameters linear slit portion section with and to be connected total rank value that the total length of linear slit is correlated with different.
Table 1b illustrates garment dimension Gx at first row, and in the length of the corresponding parameter linear slit section a1/a2 to e1/e2 of portion shown in row subsequently.Table 1b has illustrated the total length that connects linear slit in row second from the bottom, and it is relevant to garment dimension again.The size that last row on the right side of table 1b show the total linear slit length between garment dimension Gx in succession increases, i.e. total rank value.
Table 1a
Table 1b
Generate as follows according to the sewing control data of table 1a and 1b: a first selected key dimension, at this for example garment dimension G4.Also can select in principle any garment dimension as key dimension.Then generate the length of the parameters linear slit section a1/a2 to e1/e2 of portion for this garment dimension G4, i.e. length value 50mm, 120mm, 20mm, 100mm, 160mm and 450mm in this example.
In addition, specify total rank value, be value 3.4% in this example.Now on this basis, generate sewing and control data and the length in particular for the parameter linear slit portion section of other garment dimension G1 to G3 and G5 to G10.In the example of table 1, carry out the calculating of the length to the section a1/a2 to e1/e2 of parameters linear slit portion based on total rank value 3.4%, wherein said length represents not mixed decimal position.In the example of table 1, identical with total rank value respectively about the prolongation share of the length of parameters linear slit portion section, be similarly 3.4%.All parameter linear slits portion segment length has been extended identical percentage share.
After the key dimension data that specified for key dimension G4 and total rank value, automatically calculate all other sewing control data.The regulation of key dimension data can be sewed or also can be inputted by data by pattern model, for example, inputted or read corresponding key dimension data by manual data and carry out.In the time of the total rank value of regulation, the result that can use aforementioned sewing control data to generate concerning different benchmark garment dimensions.According in the sewing control data of table 1, account for the length share that connects linear slit total length according to parameter linear slit portion section, portion's section rank value of parameter linear slit portion section equals to account for the share of total rank value.
Can also assign for the section a1/a2 to e1/e2 of parameters linear slit portion other sewing parameter, for example pleating value or doubly wide value (Mehrweiten-Wert), as described above, or also have other sewing operational factor.Control in the flexible program of data in sewing, the parameter linear slit portion section that is similarly different garment dimension is assigned radius of curvature value.Above-mentioned radius linear slit portion section is another example of parameter linear slit portion section.The parameter linear slit Duan Qi of portion position for radius of curvature value needn't be consistent with the parameter linear slit portion section for portion's section rank value with length aspect.
Another flexible program of controlling data for generating sewing has been described according to table 2.
Table 2a
Table 2b
When generate sewing control data according to table 2, equally based on total rank value specified part section rank value, at least make some linear slit section a1/a2 to e1/e2 of portion extend for garment dimension Gx, Gx+1 in succession.According in the example of table 2, it is the section b1/b2 of linear slit portion, d1/d2 and e1/e2 (being extended).Other the section a1/a2 of parameter linear slit portion and c1/c2 are not extended for garment dimension in succession, have constant length 50mm or 20mm.Correspondingly, the section b1/b2 of parameter linear slit portion, d1/d2 and e1/e2 are extended a prolongation share, and described prolongation share is optionally equivalent to it and accounts for the share that connects linear slit total length.
Total rank value 3.4% so distributes based on the section b1/b2 of parameter linear slit portion (extending share 1.05%), d1/d2 (extending share 0.85%) and e1/e2 (extending share 1.5%), based on this section rank value in garment dimension Gx, Gx+1 in succession, for example between garment dimension G4 and G5, total linear slit of a garment dimension changes according to total rank value.
In the situation that observing this boundary condition, be also feasible from other distribution according to the different portion's section rank value of the distribution of table 1 and 2.Under extreme case, total rank value can realize by only extending unique parameter linear slit portion section.Under another kind of extreme case, definite portion's section rank value also can have negative percent value, and this negative percent value is subsequently by portion's section rank value overcompensation of other parameter linear slit portion section.
In symmetrical clothes article, in the left side sleeve corresponding to Fig. 3 and right side sleeve, can generate independently of one another sewing and control data.
Figure 3 illustrates the armhole 16 for right side sleeve part.Concerning the connection linear slit of the left side sleeve part belonging to, can specify independently parameter linear slit portion section, rank value, pleating value and radius of curvature value.
Another flexible program of controlling data for generating sewing has been described according to following table 3.
Table 3
Concerning garment dimension G1 to G4, the length that extends share and the section a1/a2 to e1/e2 of parameter linear slit portion with show identical in 2b.From parameter G4, determine another rank value, in this example, be another total rank value, in the example of table 3, it is 3.8%.In garment dimension in succession, that be greater than selected garment dimension G4 subsequently, total linear slit has extended this another total rank value based on selected garment dimension G4.At this, utilize portion's section rank value work of operation linear slit portion section, associative list 2a has described this section rank value hereinbefore.
In order to determine this another rank value, in garment dimension G9, carry out pattern model sewing.Garment dimension G9---wherein starts pattern model sewing---and is greater than selected garment dimension G4 in described example.Also can consider that in principle the parameter different from parameter G9 is as other pattern model garment dimension, this pattern model garment dimension is different from key dimension.In pattern model sewing, be given in the row of table 3 for length parameter G9, the section a1/a2 to e1/e2 of parameter linear slit portion is described, be worth 50mm, 150mm, 20mm, 122mm and 200mm.Correspondingly obtain total linear slit length L 542mm.Concerning selected garment dimension G4 and other pattern model garment dimension G9, total linear slit length difference between total linear slit length is 450mm, and in the framework automatically calculating, concerning the garment dimension G5 to G8 in the middle of being positioned at, divide evenly distributedly total seam length and change, wherein think approx that total linear slit length has extended respectively identical other total rank value.Draw thus another total rank value 3.8%.Correspondingly draw thus for middle parameter G5's to G8 and be also useful on each length of the section a1/a2 to e1/e2 of parameter linear slit portion of parameter G10.
Consider to control the prescriptive procedure of data for sewing according to table 3: from certain garment dimension, make the operation linear slit portion section of garment dimension in succession than change the in the situation that of less garment dimension largelyr.
The regulation that the total rank value obtaining according to another pattern model sewing in garment dimension G9, thus and according to selected garment dimension G4---starts to be suitable for by another pattern model another rank value obtaining of sewing from this selected garment dimension---, is created on the linear slit portion segment length shown in table 3 automatically.
Illustrate again that according to table 4 portion's segment length to generate parameter linear slit portion section is as another flexible program example, that generate sewing and control data.Concerning garment dimension G1 to G4, linear slit portion segment length is again identical with the value in table 2b.Portion's section rank value of the section a1/a2 to e1/e2 of parameters linear slit portion is also consistent with the value that above associative list 2b discusses.
Table 4
Since the first selected garment dimension G4, replace the total rank value 3.4% using before this, determine another rank value, in the example of table 4, this another total rank value is 3.1%.Based in pattern model sewing, determine, obtain relevant portion's section rank value for the value of the length of the section a1/a2 to e1/e2 of parameters linear slit portion.This another total rank value is determined in pattern model sewing by garment dimension G7 is carried out, wherein by compared with the 450mm of the first selected garment dimension G4, the length of total linear slit length 493mm of obtaining at this in another pattern model garment dimension G7 increases, be 3.1% by automatically calculating another total rank value, the connection linear slit of middle garment dimension G5 and G6 has extended respectively this another total rank value.In the case of having considered extraly portion's section rank value of parameter linear slit portion section, the length of parameter linear slit portion section has changed this another total rank value.Pattern model garment dimension G7 shows as another selected garment dimension simultaneously.From this another selected garment dimension G7, now determine another total rank value, in the example of table 4, be value 4.8%.This is undertaken by another pattern model sewing in garment dimension G10, wherein obtains total linear slit length 568mm.At this, also by means of automatic calculating, according to length that obtain, the section a1/a2 to e1/e2 of parameters linear slit portion in another pattern model sewing, specify out the corresponding selected rank value for these parameter linear slit portion sections.Again, in the case of considering definite portion's section rank value, at this, linear slit portion segment length is extended with this another total rank value.
Sewing process at Sewing machines 1 is in service, first generates and controls data according to one of aforementioned variant scheme.Then identify garment dimension current to be sewed up and by means of the sewing control data of identified garment dimension, two sewing parts 12,13 sewed up subsequently.For this reason, control appliance 24 receives the corresponding sewing control data of the garment dimension identifying from memory 25 or 28, and controls Sewing machines according to the sewing position of sewing at connecting line detecting by detection module 26.As described above, adjusting module 29 is at two the section a1/a2 of parameter linear slit portion, b1/b2 in succession ... between there is when conversion and according to detected sewing position and according to the sewing control data of point tasking this sewing position, sewing operational factor adjusted.
One of two sewing parts sewing up by means of generation sewing control data mentioned above can be also neckline band (Lisierband).Exemplarily be explained according to Fig. 4 below.At this, coat sewing part is depicted as sewing part 12, and neckline band is depicted as sewing part 13.Be arranged between two linear slit boundary point 17a, 17b at the connection linear slit 32 between these two sewing parts 12,13, described linear slit boundary point shows as respectively linear slit starting point and linear slit terminal according to sewing direction.Be in the sewing of coat right side or in the sewing of coat left side according to connecting linear slit 32, and start or start sewing from linear slit starting point 17b to connect linear slit 32 from linear slit starting point 17a.Between two linear slit end points 17a, 17b, be provided with two along linear slit 32 and distribute linear slit position P1, P2.Linear slit length between linear slit boundary point 17a and its immediate distribution linear slit position P1 be connect linear slit 32 total length L 35%.Two are distributed distance between linear slit position P1, P2 is total length L 40%, and distributes linear slit position P2 and to be connected distance between another linear slit boundary point 17b linear slit 32, adjacent with this distribution linear slit position P2 be total length L 25%.
Consider the sewing control data that generate by means of generation method, sew up particularly neckline band 13 for the corresponding garment dimension Gx according to sewing part 12.For this reason, first carry out pattern model sewing, wherein linear slit 32 be divided into multiple in Fig. 4 unshowned linear slit portion section.Before or after this pattern model sewing, distribution linear slit position P1, P2 are placed on linear slit 32.Concerning different garment dimensions, analysis result parameter grade, that provide of optimizing based on experience value of the analysis result providing of the linear slit process to optimizing based on experience value or the process to linear slit 32 is provided in this arrangement.Distribute the arrangement of linear slit position P1, P2 with exemplarily by pattern model sew carry out, linear slit 32 be divided into multiple linear slit portion section have nothing to do.
In next step, distribute sewing parameter value for distributing linear slit position P1, P2 to assign.According in the example of Fig. 4, the sewing parameter value of distribution is camber line value and/or pleating value and/or rank value.According to the example of the distribution to rank value, another kind of generation method is described below.Still, or based on experience value, based on experience-between garment dimension in succession between linear slit terminal 17a, 17b the length variations of linear slit 32 how many, or according to pattern model sewing process-wherein different garment dimension sewing is connected to linear slit 32, rank value is divided and tasked partition line seam position P1, P2.For example, can assign rank value 3% for partition line seam position P1, and be to distribute linear slit position P2 to assign rank value 4%.
In generation method, check, at least one distributes linear slit position to be arranged in the linear slit portion section which generates in the division of linear slit.Then---i.e. rank value in described example---point tasks the linear slit portion section obtaining in division, will to assign sewing parameter value, distributes accordingly linear slit position P1, P2 to be positioned in linear slit portion section.Which this distribute linear slit position P1, P2 to be positioned in the linear slit portion section of current consideration to carry out based on.According in the example of Fig. 4, on it, exist and distribute the linear slit portion section of linear slit position P1 to obtain rank value 3%, distribute the Duan Ze of linear slit portion of linear slit position P2 to obtain rank value 4% and exist on it.
Already mentioned for linear slit being divided into the pattern model sewing of linear slit portion section according to beginning, become known for the length of the single linear slit portion section of pattern model garment dimension.Can determine by means of the rank value of point tasking each linear slit portion section thus to there is which kind of length in the different garment dimension of the Duan Yu of the linear slit portion pattern model garment dimension that obtains in division.
By means of the sewing control data that so generate, linear slit 32 can be carried out to automatic sewing as the linear slit portion section sequence obtaining in division at this.At this, can by the starting point 17a of an end at linear slit 32, also can be by the starting point 17b of the other end at linear slit 32 as sewing starting point 17, thereby with corresponding order a1, b1, c1 or with order c1, b1, the a1 described linear slit portion section of sewing.
As described above, can assign different sewing parameter values for linear slit portion section, for example different portion's section rank value or different doubly wide.
According to the generation method of controlling data for sewing, also can make the percentage length ratio of length l a1, lb1, lc1 be different from the above percent value for the explanation of garment dimension example.
In the above-mentioned generation method of controlling data for sewing, respectively to specify that total rank value is as starting point, in the example of above-mentioned table 1, total rank value is 3.4%.
The one alternative generation method of controlling data for sewing is described below, and this generation method is not specifying the also feasible in this case of total rank value.At this, first select the first benchmark garment dimension, for example garment dimension G4.Generate subsequently the sewing control data for this benchmark garment dimension G4.Under any circumstance, the section a1 of linear slit portion ... length l a1 ... all belong to this sewing control data.For example, sewing is controlled data and can in benchmark garment dimension G4, be generated by the first pattern model sewing, the segment length la1 of linear slit portion wherein sewing up in pattern model sewing respectively ... be stored in memory module 25.
Subsequently, select another benchmark garment dimension, for example garment dimension G9.Generate subsequently the sewing control data for this another benchmark garment dimension G9.These other sewing control data at least also comprise the length l a1 of the linear slit portion section of this another benchmark garment dimension G9 ...This other sewing control data that generate in another benchmark garment dimension G9 also can be by the pattern model generation of sewing, according to picture above in conjunction with as described in the first benchmark garment dimension G4.Generate sewing control data in the first benchmark garment dimension G4 time, except the segment length la1 of linear slit portion, outward, be assigned to the section a1 of this linear slit portion, other sewing parameter can change by specifying or calculate, and in contrast to this, when generating sewing control data in another benchmark garment dimension G9, only also generate and store the segment length la1 of linear slit portion ...In this another benchmark garment dimension G9, in the time generating other sewing control data, divide and task the section a1 of this linear slit portion ... other sewing parameter remain unchanged.
From the sewing control data that generate described two kinds of benchmark garment dimensions, in computing module 30, calculate subsequently for the sewing control data of other garment dimension and by control appliance 24 and specify to process for processing.Other garment dimension is those garment dimensions different from benchmark garment dimension G4, G9.Except in the case of the rank value of specified percentage not, completely can calculate and specify, for the segment length la1 of linear slit portion of this other garment dimension, outward, can also specify in this way in principle other sewing parameter value, for example for radius of curvature value, for pleating value or for the parameter value of line tension.But, to removing the segment length la1 of linear slit portion ... the regulation of other outer sewing parameter value is not enforceable, but can make sewing parameter value remain unchanged yet.If in previous example for the segment length lb1 of linear slit portion, for the benchmark garment dimension G4 value of obtaining 120mm and for another benchmark garment dimension G9 value of obtaining 150mm, calculate the segment length lb1 of linear slit portion of therebetween garment dimension G5 to G8 by equidistant partition, thereby obtain the segment length lb1126mm of linear slit portion, 132mm, 138mm and the 144mm for these garment dimensions G5 to G8.
In a kind of generation method alternative, control data for sewing, also can for example sew by pattern model and control data for generating sewing more than two benchmark garment dimensions.In the time using more than two benchmark garment dimensions, in the time calculating and be given for the sewing control data of other garment dimension, by correspondingly increasing the quantity at control point, also realize the further raising of other garment dimension sewing parameter precision.
Below according to Fig. 5 to 8, describe for generating and carry out the generation method of the sewing control data that sewing process uses and for generating another example of operation method of linear slit.Above in conjunction with Fig. 1 to 4 and table 1 to the assembly of 4 descriptions and function have identical Reference numeral and identical title and below no longer describe in detail.
Fig. 5 is similarly to show upper dress part 12 with Fig. 3, and it will be sewed up with unshowned right side sleeve in Fig. 5.On the linear slit for dress part and sleeve part on sewing up, altogether distribute three to distribute linear slit position P1, P2 and P3.From sewing datum mark 33, simultaneously it is also sewing starting point 17s, in the garment dimension schematically showing, is 30% of linear slit total length L at sewing datum mark 33 with the linear slit length between distribution linear slit position P1 in Fig. 5.To distribute linear slit length between linear slit position P1 and P2 be total length L 15%.To distribute linear slit length between linear slit position P2 and P3 be total length L 30%.Distributing the linear slit length between linear slit position P3 and sewing datum mark 33 is correspondingly 25% of total length L.As described in picture is above corresponding in conjunction with Fig. 4, for distributing each assignment in the P1 to P3 of linear slit position to have sewing parameter.At this, can be portion's section rank value, can be also another sewing parameter, for example doubly wide value or pleating value or radius of curvature value.
According in the embodiment of Fig. 5, datum mark 33 is sewing starting point 17 simultaneously.
Control data in order to generate sewing, from sewing starting point 17, linear slit is divided into multiple linear slit portion section pattern model sewing.As described in picture is corresponding in conjunction with Fig. 4, corresponding sewing parameter is distributed to the distribution linear slit position P1 to P3 of regulation above.As described in same picture is corresponding in conjunction with Fig. 3, will divide the linear slit portion obtaining in the division of tasking online seam section through the sewing parameter distributing subsequently above, at least one distributes linear slit position to be positioned in described linear slit portion section.This also depend on which distribute linear slit position P1 to P3 be positioned at current consideration, in the time dividing, in the linear slit portion section that obtains, carry out.
In the operation sewing of automation subsequently, between two linear slit portion sections in succession, for example, while conversion between a1/b1, b1/c1, c1/d1, sewing parameter is adjusted to a point parameter value of tasking new linear slit portion section automatically.When transforming to while distributing in the linear slit portion section that is located thereon of linear slit position P1, for example, set the radius of curvature value or the pleating value that are assigned to this distribution linear slit position P1.Guarantee at this, in the region of distributing linear slit position, sewed by means of best there sewing parameter.
Picture, above in conjunction with as described in Fig. 4, also can be distributed to rank value and distribute linear slit position.To sew and for example linear slit to be once divided into multiple linear slit portion section as starting point by pattern model in basic garment dimension, can be according to by distributing linear slit position P1 to P3 to divide the rank value of tasking linear slit portion section to calculate and store the linear slit portion segment length for other garment dimension, and transfer and use described length when corresponding garment dimension in stitching.At this, can use in the generative process step to 4 descriptions in conjunction with Fig. 2 and table 1 above.
In operation sewing,, after pattern model sewing, determining of the sewing section based on to sewed, identifies the conversion between the section a1 to d1 of parameter linear slit portion from sewing datum mark 33s.For example, described definite can being undertaken by the measurement section of sewing.
The position of the section a1 to d1 of parameter linear slit portion and length l a1 to ld1 and the sewing parameter of assigning are stored in the memory module 25 of Sewing machines 1.
Also carry out the measurement to sewing section by means of detection module 26.
Also adjust by means of adjusting module 29.
Fig. 6 illustrates the situation for sewing up upper dress part 12 and left side sleeve part.At this, sew with the direction of rotation contrary with the situation of sewing up right side sleeve part.
According in the embodiment of Fig. 6, on the linear slit between upper dress part 12 and left side sleeve part are divided, also settle three to distribute linear slit position P1, P2 and P3.Can draw with the comparison of Fig. 5, according to Fig. 6, these distribute linear slit position P1, P2 and P3 to sew on to be online arranged according to relative position place identical in the example of Fig. 5.This is not enforceable.It is also feasible that other of distribution linear slit position P1, P2 and P3 located freely.From sewing datum mark 33s until the linear slit length of distribution linear slit position P3 is 25% of linear slit total length L.To distribute linear slit length between linear slit position P3 and P2 be total length L 30%.To distribute linear slit length between linear slit position P2 and P1 be total length L 15%, and to distribute length between linear slit position P1 and sewing datum mark 33 be total length L 30%.
A kind of situation of wherein sew datum mark 33 and the coincidence in provided pattern model sewing of sewing starting point 17 is also provided Fig. 6.After the linear slit portion section that obtains is assigned sewing parameters by Fig. 6 to these linear slit portion sections with respect to the position of distributing linear slit position P1 to P3 in dividing according to pattern model, be accompanied by Automatic parameter adjustment and sew, as above in conjunction with as described in Fig. 5.
Illustrated according to Fig. 7 and 8 a kind of according to the scheme modification of the stitching of the left side sleeve of Fig. 6 and upper dress part 12, wherein starting point 17' with reference to sewing datum mark 33 moved 50% of linear slit total length L.
From sewing datum mark 33s, even according in the sewing process of Fig. 7 and 8, distribute linear slit position P1 to P3 with and parameter assign all constant.In sewing, from mobile starting point 17', definite sewing parameter conversion of carrying out between linear slit portion section of the sewing section based on between sewing datum mark 33 and sewing starting point 17.For example, this is determined can be by carrying out by means of the sewing starting point 17 of a bit inputting of touching on the indicative icon of the linear slit on the display screen 34 of Sewing machines 1 (referring to Fig. 1), and this display screen is connected with control appliance 24 signals.
For according to Fig. 7 and the 8 starting point 17' that select, obtain carrying out when this is determined, starting point 17' has moved 50% of linear slit total length L with respect to datum mark 33.With compared with the sewing situation of Fig. 6, in the time sewing up left side sleeve, keep the direction of rotation of the sewing direction that connects linear slit.Obtain, linear slit total length L 5% after be distribute linear slit position P2, linear slit total length L 15% after, be again distribute linear slit position P1, linear slit total length L after 55%, is again distribution linear slit position P3.Between the sewing starting point 17' that distributes linear slit position P3 and move, retain 25% of linear slit total length L.In the time generating sewing and control data, which distributes linear slit position P1 to P3 to be positioned at now the linear slit portion section of the mobile current consideration of sewing starting point 17' corresponding to the movement of starting point according to, distribute to the assignment of the sewing parameter value of distributing linear slit position P1 to P3.
Fig. 9 is similarly to show with Fig. 3 the sewing parameter situation of optimizing along the linear slit for right side sleeve.Show corresponding to empirical value along the linear slit extending around edge contour 14 sewing parameter to be set.In Fig. 9, by direction arrow 18, sewing direction is shown, this sewing direction extends along the clockwise direction around edge contour 14.From sewing starting point 17s, until in the coat front portion 35 of shoulder linear slit 36 approximately until in the first linear slit portion section of half linear slit length, pleating value has a first little value K1, this first value represents by slightly bending wave.Corresponding to little pleating value K1, little doubly wide along having compared with the material of the sleeve material of linear slit and anterior 35.Connection linear slit between sewing starting point 17 and shoulder linear slit 36 the second half portions have larger pleating value K2, and it represents by the larger wave of amplitude in Fig. 9.Just in the region of shoulder linear slit 36, in a short linear slit portion section, pleating value can have value 0.In further process subsequently, pleating value has again larger value K2, and it is corresponding to doubly loose with the large sleeve material of the material compared at coat back 37.Roughly symmetrically, pleating value transits to less value K1 from larger value K2 with parameter process in anterior 35.With the region of the opposed coat side of shoulder linear slit part 38 in, pleating value is 0.The linear slit region of these starting point 17 left and right that are also applicable to sew.
For example also there is in conjunction with Fig. 3 radius linear slit portion section 19 and 22 that describe, that there is radius of curvature value " roughing feed camber line " in the place that has less pleating value K1.There is radius of curvature value " little feeding camber line " having in large pleating value K2 linear slit region to exist, there is the radius linear slit portion section 20,21 of the feeding camber line of minor radius.
Figure 9 illustrates parameter flexible program, wherein, in the region of shoulder linear slit 36, also have little feeding camber line, be i.e. corresponding radius of curvature value.Alternatively, as described in Fig. 3, also can in the region of shoulder linear slit 36, there is the parameter linear slit portion section with " without feeding camber line " at this, i.e. the linear slit of straight line trend.
Except for example in best linear slit trend with the distribution of the pleating value K corresponding according to the distribution of Fig. 9 and radius of curvature value, one group of complete sewing control data also comprises the explanation of linear slit portion segment length, it draws for all other garment dimensions from first group of linear slit portion segment length key dimension, i.e. rank value.
By means of generation and the operation method in conjunction with Fig. 1 to 8 description above, realize a kind of automatic sewing, it approaches parameter distribution of optimizing as far as possible.At this, diverse ways modification in two kinds of principles is distinguished:
-above particularly in conjunction with rank value and Fig. 4 and in the first scheme modification of describing thereafter, for actual operation sewing is provided, linear slit is divided into multiple linear slit portion section, and this point is illustrated as an example of the pattern model sewing that provided example hereinbefore.At this, be that example linear slit---especially for garment dimension---intactly generates sewing control data.The distribution to rank value for this example, to calculate all other linear slit portion segment length by the provided pattern model garment dimension through sewing.In operation sewing initial just by linear slit portion section sequence together with dividing the sewing parameter of tasking it to be stored in sewing controller.
That is to say, first linear slit is divided into linear slit portion section and then sewing parameter is distributed to linear slit portion section.
– alternatively, for example as above in conjunction with as described in Fig. 3, during operation sewing, carried out the distribution of sewing parameter.Can cancel the sewing process of preparing, control the pattern model sewing of data in particular for generating sewing.At this,, in the situation that accurately not understanding whole linear slit length, in pattern model sewing, be especially that the linear slit carrying out during pattern model sewing carries out parametric distribution to the division of linear slit portion section.
That is to say, sewing parameter is distributed to linear slit portion section during linear slit being divided into linear slit portion section.This alternative distribution allocating method for example can be for radius of curvature value or pleating value or also can be for thread tension value and/or other sewing parameter.
According to Figure 10 to 12, the different examples for linear slit being divided into multiple operation linear slit portion section have been described, it can occur in pattern model sewing and to carry out based on this subsequently corresponding operation sewing.
Figure 10 shows linear slit is divided into altogether to three the operation section a1 of linear slit portion, b1 and c1.Because only have three operation the section a1 to c1 of linear slit portion for, so only can limitedly sewing parameter be divided task these move the section a1 to c1 of linear slit portion.This is with shown in Figure 10 similarly according to the diagram of Fig. 9.The operation section a1 of linear slit portion has approximately 20% of linear slit total length L from sewing starting point 17s.The operation section b1 of linear slit portion have linear slit total length L approximately 35% and extends symmetrically about shoulder linear slit 36, this shoulder linear slit is roughly medially in moving in the section b1 of linear slit portion.The operation section c1 of linear slit portion is the residue 45% of linear slit length L.
In the operation section a1 of linear slit portion and c1, there is pleating value K=0 and radius of curvature value " roughing feed camber line ".In the operation section b1 of linear slit portion, there is the pleating value between pleating value K1 and K2, and radius of curvature value " little feeding camber line ", described pleating value K1 and K2 are above describing in conjunction with Fig. 9.
Figure 11 shows still from sewing starting point 17s, and linear slit is divided into five the operation section a1 of linear slit portion, b1, c1, d1 and e1.The operation section a1 of linear slit portion has 5% of whole linear slit length L.The section b1 of operation linear slit portion subsequently has 15% of linear slit total length L.The section c1 of operation linear slit portion subsequently has 25% of linear slit total length L.The section d1 of operation linear slit portion subsequently has 15% of linear slit total length, and the last section e1 of operation linear slit portion has 40% of linear slit total length L.In the section a1 of linear slit portion, pleating value K=0 and sewing in the situation that there is no feeding camber line.In the operation section b1 of linear slit portion, pleating value is K1 and sews with radius of curvature value " roughing feed camber line ".In the operation section c1 of linear slit portion, pleating value is K2 and sews with radius of curvature value " little feeding camber line ".In the operation section d1 of linear slit portion, pleating value is again K1 and again sews with radius of curvature value " roughing feed camber line ".In the operation section e1 of linear slit portion, pleating value K=0 and sewing in the situation that there is no feeding camber line.In the operation section c1 of linear slit portion, shoulder linear slit 36 is also roughly placed in the middle.The operation section b1 of linear slit portion and d1 are roughly symmetrical relative to each other.
Figure 12 shows linear slit is divided into seven the operation section a1 of linear slit portion, b1, c1, d1, e1, f1 and g1 altogether.Based on these operations, the section a1 to g1 of linear slit portion can correspondingly carry out the distribution of sewing parameter more subtly, as also shown in Figure 12.The linear slit portion segment length of the operation section a1 to g1 of linear slit portion is 5%, 20%, 10%, 5%, 10%, 10% and 40% of linear slit total length L.The operation section d1 of linear slit portion is also arranged in the region of shoulder linear slit 36.
Along the operation section a1 of linear slit portion, d1 and g1, pleating value K=0.Along the operation section b1 of linear slit portion and f1, pleating value is K1.Along the operation section c1 of linear slit portion and e1, pleating value is K2.Along the operation section a1 of linear slit portion and g1, in the situation that there is no feeding camber line, sew.Along the operation section b1 of linear slit portion and f1, sew with radius of curvature value " roughing feed camber line ".Along the operation section c1 of linear slit portion, d1 and e1, sew with radius of curvature value " little feeding camber line ".
Operating personnel can freely specify the division of whole linear slit to operation linear slit portion section.In the time linear slit being divided into linear slit portion section, so data are controlled in regulation sewing at every turn, and it approaches the parameter distribution corresponding to the optimization of Fig. 9 as far as possible well.
Especially be described in conjunction with Fig. 4 to 8 hereinbefore for the possible scheme that generates the sewing control data that ensure this situation.Table 5 below shows rank value, and this rank value is assigned to the operation linear slit portion section corresponding to the method.
Table 5
Linear slit portion section Figure 10 Figure 11 Figure 12
a1 0 0 0
b1 GW1+GW2 0 0
c1 GW3 GW1+GW2 GW1
d1 --- GW3 0
e1 --- 0 GW2
f1 --- --- 0
g1 --- --- GW3
Therefore, this assignment of rank value GW has been considered: according in the distribution of Figure 10 to 12, and at the section a1 of linear slit portion of corresponding current consideration ... upper existence which distribute linear slit position P1 to P3.
According in the distribution of Figure 10, two are distributed linear slit position P1 and P2 to be positioned on the operation section b1 of linear slit portion.Distribute linear slit position P3 to be positioned on the operation section c1 of linear slit portion.Correspondingly, rank value GW is divided and tasks linear slit portion section, shown in " Figure 10 " hurdle at table 5.Also can carry out the above-mentioned assignment to pleating value K1, K2 and radius of curvature value according to the position of distributing linear slit position P1 to P3 on the section a1 to c1 of linear slit portion of corresponding current consideration.Because two are distributed linear slit position P1 and P2 to be positioned on the operation section b1 of linear slit portion, think the section b1 of this operation linear slit portion both do not assign distribute linear slit position P1 pleating value K1 also do not assign distribution linear slit position P2 pleating value K2, but average pleating value, for example (K1+K2)/2 are assigned.
In dividing according to the linear slit portion section of Figure 11, two are distributed linear slit position P1 and P2 to be all positioned on the section c1 of linear slit portion.Distribute linear slit position P3 to be positioned on the section d1 of linear slit portion.As what illustrate in " Figure 11 " hurdle of table 5, rank value GW is divided and tasks the section a1 to e1 of linear slit portion.
In dividing according to the linear slit portion section of Figure 12, distribute linear slit position P1 to be positioned on the section c1 of linear slit portion.Distribute linear slit position P2 to be positioned at the section e1 of linear slit portion upper, and distribute linear slit position P3 to be positioned on the section g1 of linear slit portion.Correspondingly, as what illustrate, carry out the assignment of rank value GW1, GW2, GW3 in " Figure 12 " hurdle of table 5.Certainly, can also replace rank value GW and assign other sewing parameters, for example radius of curvature value or pleating value.
If the substantial distance of whole linear slit and garment dimension are known, this can, by being defined in equipment control device and selecting accordingly, can carry out online sewing parameter assignment during pattern model sewing.Below according to Figure 13 and 14 again illustrate for modification-right side sleeve ‖ and-this situation of left side sleeve ‖, the scheme modification of operation method has wherein been described, this operation method is discussed in conjunction with Fig. 3 hereinbefore.First from sewing starting point 17s, linear slit is divided into parameter linear slit portion section 19,20,21,22 and another the last linear slit portion section between parameter linear slit portion section 22 and 19.From different according to the division of sewing parameter portion section in the example of Fig. 3, parameter linear slit portion section 20 and 21 uniteds are the linear slit portion section of a combination, and the linear slit portion section of this combination has intactly been assigned radius of curvature value-little charging radius ‖.From sewing starting point 17, point tasking the first parameter linear slit portion section, the radius of curvature value of the first radius linear slit portion section 19---that is with radius of curvature value-large charging radius ‖---is sewed.Once the conversion in Figure 13 and 14 between unshowned two operation linear slit portion sections is no longer carried out but is carried out in parameter linear slit portion section subsequently in parameter seam portion section 19, radius of curvature value is adjusted to the radius of curvature value that is assigned to this new parameter linear slit portion section.Because expection operation linear slit portion section has certain length, between each parameter linear slit portion section 19 to 22, compared with radius of curvature value-linear slit region of border and the optimization illustrating respectively, be positioned at front with reference to sewing direction 18 in Figure 13 and 14.Ensure like this, when an operation linear slit portion section is two parameter linear slit portion sections---for example, section 19 1 sides of parameter linear slit portion and section 20,21 1 sides of parameter linear slit portion---between borderline region after while stopping, wish to assign for the sewing parameter of optimizing the adjustment that radius of curvature value occurs in the linear slit region that need to carry out such conversion therein, be from be adjusted to radius of curvature value " little feeding camber line " from radius of curvature value " roughing feed camber line " in described example
Generating scheme modification according to the control data for left side sleeve of Figure 14, correspondingly linear slit is divided into radius linear slit portion section 19,20,21 and 22, current transition part is ahead of radius of curvature value-linear slit region of optimization widdershins with reference to the direction of rotation of sewing direction 18.
During method mentioned above is particularly useful for sleeve being sewn to main body-coat sewing part in the situation that of not pre-pleat and be particularly useful for manufacturing dress.

Claims (15)

1. one kind for generating the method for the sewing control data in order to carry out the sewing process relevant to garment dimension, in the process of described sewing process, sew out and there are multiple linear slit portion section (a1/a2, b1/b2, c1/c2, d1/d2 in succession,) linear slit, described method has following steps:
-selected clothes key dimension (G4),
-be that this key dimension (G4) generates sewing and controls data, wherein these sewing control data comprise each linear slit portion section (a1/a2, b1/b2, c1/c2, d1/d2 ...) length,
-be that other garment dimension (G1 to G3, G5 to G10) different from this key dimension (G4) generates sewing control data, this step comprises following sub-step:
--regulation one total rank value, for garment dimension in succession (G1/G2, G2/G3, G3/G4 ...) whole linear slit extended described total rank value,
--calculate (and regulation) portion's section rank value according to this total rank value, for garment dimension (G1/G2, G2/G3, G3/G4 in succession,) at least some linear slits portion section (a1/a2, b1/b2, c1/c2, d1/d2 ...) extend respectively described portion section rank value.
2. method according to claim 1, is characterized in that, also comprises other following step:
-determine at least one other rank value, according to selected garment dimension (G4) for the garment dimension in succession larger than selected garment dimension (G4) (G4/G5, G5/G6 ...) linear slit extended this other rank value.
3. method according to claim 2, it is characterized in that, determine at least one section rank value in order to determine other rank value, for garment dimension in succession (G1/G2, G2/G3, the G3/G4 larger than selected garment dimension (G4),) linear slit portion section (a1/a2, b1/b2, c1/c2, d1/d2 ...) extend this section rank value.
4. method according to claim 3, it is characterized in that, calculate and specify other portion's section rank value according to other rank value, for garment dimension in succession (G1/G2, G2/G3, the G3/G4 larger than selected garment dimension (G4),) at least some linear slits portion section (a1/a2, b1/b2, c1/c2, d1/d2 ...) extend described other portion's section rank value.
5. according to the method described in any one in claim 2 to 4, it is characterized in that, in order to determine other rank value one than selected garment dimension (G4) in large garment dimension (G9) execution one pattern model sew.
6. according to the method described in any one in claim 2 to 5, it is characterized in that, also comprise other following method step:
-determine at least one other rank value, extend described other rank value according to an other selected garment dimension (G7) for garment dimension in succession (G7/G8, G8/G9, the G9/G10) linear slit larger than this other selected garment dimension (G7).
7. method according to claim 6, it is characterized in that, determine at least one section rank value in order to determine described other rank value, for large garment dimension in succession (G7/G8, G8/G9, G9/G10) the linear slit portion section of the selected garment dimension (G7) than other (a1, b1, c1, d1 ...) extend this section rank value.
8. according to the method described in claim 6 or 7, it is characterized in that, calculate and specify out other portion's section rank value according to other rank value, for the garment dimension than other (G7) large garment dimension in succession (G7/G8, G8/G9,) at least some linear slits portion section (a1/a2, b1/b2, c1/c2, d1/d2 ...) extend described other portion's section rank value.
9. according to the method described in any one in claim 6 to 8, it is characterized in that, for definite other rank value is carried out pattern model sewing in the large garment dimension (G10) of the selected garment dimension (G7) than other.
10. according to the method described in any one in claim 1 to 9, it is characterized in that, at least several relate to corresponding linear slit portion section (a1/a2, b1/b2, c1/c2, d1/d2 ...) portion's section rank value of length is different from the total rank value that relates to whole linear slit length.
11. methods according to claim 10, is characterized in that, at least one in described portion section rank value has null value.
12. 1 kinds for generating the method for the sewing control data in order to carry out the sewing process relevant to garment dimension, in the process of described sewing process, sew out and there are multiple linear slit portion section (a1/a2, b1/b2, c1/c2, d1/d2 in succession,) linear slit, described method has following steps:
-selected the first benchmark garment dimension (G4),
-be that this first benchmark garment dimension (G4) generates sewing and controls data, wherein these sewing control data comprise each linear slit portion section (a1/a2, b1/b2, c1/c2, d1/d2 ...) length,
-selected at least one other benchmark garment dimension (G9),
-be that this other benchmark garment dimension generates sewing and controls data, wherein these sewing control data comprise each linear slit portion section (a1/a2, b1/b2, c1/c2, d1/d2 ...) length,
-be that other garment dimension (G1 to G3, G5 to G10) different with benchmark garment dimension (G4, G9) calculates and data are controlled in regulation sewing.
13. methods according to claim 12, is characterized in that, control data and at least one benchmark garment dimension (G4, G9), carry out pattern model sewing in order to generate sewing for benchmark garment dimension (G4, G9).
14. operation methods for Sewing machines (1), have following steps:
-control data according to generate sewing according to the method described in any one in claim 1 to 13,
-identify garment dimension current to be sewed,
-sew with the sewing control data of the garment dimension that identified.
15. for carrying out according to the Sewing machines of method described in claim 14 (1), comprising:
-for calculating the computing module (30) of sewing control data,
-control appliance (24),
-for the linear slit portion segment length of corresponding garment dimension (la1/l a2, lb1/lb2, lc1/l c2, ld1/ld2 ...) and sew and control the memory module (25) of data,
-for detection of the detection module (26) of the corresponding current sewing position in linear slit,
-for when two linear slit portion sections in succession (a1/a2, b1/b2, c1/c2, d1/d2 ...) between automatically adjust the adjusting module (29) of sewing operational factor while converting.
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DE102013208408A1 (en) 2014-11-13
KR20140132285A (en) 2014-11-17
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TW201506218A (en) 2015-02-16

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