Classifications

• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
  • A61K8/55—Phosphorus compounds
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
  • A61K8/0241—Containing particulates characterized by their shape and/or structure
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
  • A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
  • A61K8/06—Emulsions
  • A61K8/062—Oil-in-water emulsions
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
  • A61K8/29—Titanium; Compounds thereof
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
  • A61K8/55—Phosphorus compounds
  • A61K8/556—Derivatives containing from 2 to 10 oxyalkylene groups
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
  • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
  • A61K8/86—Polyethers
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
  • A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
  • A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
  • A61Q1/08—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments for cheeks, e.g. rouge
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
  • A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
  • A61Q1/10—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments for eyes, e.g. eyeliner, mascara
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
  • A61Q5/06—Preparations for styling the hair, e.g. by temporary shaping or colouring
  • A61Q5/065—Preparations for temporary colouring the hair, e.g. direct dyes
• • C—CHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
  • C09—DYES; PAINTS; POLISHES; NATURAL RESINS; ADHESIVES; COMPOSITIONS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR; APPLICATIONS OF MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
  • C09C—TREATMENT OF INORGANIC MATERIALS, OTHER THAN FIBROUS FILLERS, TO ENHANCE THEIR PIGMENTING OR FILLING PROPERTIES ; PREPARATION OF CARBON BLACK  ; PREPARATION OF INORGANIC MATERIALS WHICH ARE NO SINGLE CHEMICAL COMPOUNDS AND WHICH ARE MAINLY USED AS PIGMENTS OR FILLERS
  • C09C1/00—Treatment of specific inorganic materials other than fibrous fillers; Preparation of carbon black
  • C09C1/22—Compounds of iron
  • C09C1/24—Oxides of iron
• • C—CHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
  • C09—DYES; PAINTS; POLISHES; NATURAL RESINS; ADHESIVES; COMPOSITIONS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR; APPLICATIONS OF MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
  • C09C—TREATMENT OF INORGANIC MATERIALS, OTHER THAN FIBROUS FILLERS, TO ENHANCE THEIR PIGMENTING OR FILLING PROPERTIES ; PREPARATION OF CARBON BLACK  ; PREPARATION OF INORGANIC MATERIALS WHICH ARE NO SINGLE CHEMICAL COMPOUNDS AND WHICH ARE MAINLY USED AS PIGMENTS OR FILLERS
  • C09C1/00—Treatment of specific inorganic materials other than fibrous fillers; Preparation of carbon black
  • C09C1/36—Compounds of titanium
  • C09C1/3607—Titanium dioxide
  • C09C1/3669—Treatment with low-molecular organic compounds
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
  • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
  • A61K2800/60—Particulates further characterized by their structure or composition
  • A61K2800/61—Surface treated
  • A61K2800/612—By organic compounds
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
  • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
  • A61K2800/60—Particulates further characterized by their structure or composition
  • A61K2800/61—Surface treated
  • A61K2800/614—By macromolecular compounds
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
  • A61Q5/02—Preparations for cleaning the hair

Definitions

• Dispersible hydrophilic treated pigments in a cosmetic composition Dispersible hydrophilic treated pigments in a cosmetic composition
• cosmetic composition means any cosmetic formulation intended to be applied to the skin, the hair and / or the nails.
• the formulations may be in the form of a powder, a solution that is fluid or thickened by aqueous or fatty thickeners (gel) or gelling agents (stick), or a water-in-oil or oil-in-water emulsion.
• aqueous cosmetic composition means a cosmetic composition whose medium is an aqueous medium, that is to say it comprises from 1 to 95% by weight of water, in particular from 10 to 70% by weight of water, for example from 20 to 60% by weight of water, said aqueous medium possibly being a fluid or thickened aqueous solution or an oil-in-water emulsion.
• Many cosmetic compositions comprise dispersed solids in the divided state, typically pigments.
• the homogeneous dispersion of the pigments in a cosmetic composition is ensured by a step of grinding the pigment in one of the liquid phases of the cosmetic composition.
• Hydrogenated lecithin comprises phosphate mono- and di-ester having fatty chains. Once deposited on the pigment, the hydrogenated lecithin promotes the dispersion thereof in the oily phase.
• the use of pigments treated with hydrogenated lecithin in a cosmetic composition whose medium is oily thus makes it possible to obtain an adequate coloration without grinding step.
• pigments treated with hydrogenated lecithin are not readily dispersible in aqueous compositions.
• the dispersion of pigments in aqueous cosmetic compositions is more delicate and to date there are very few treated pigments easily dispersible in aqueous medium.
• One of the objectives of the present invention is to provide a solution for easily and efficiently dispersing a pigment in a cosmetic composition, in particular an aqueous cosmetic composition.
• the present invention provides a pigment composition comprising, in addition to a pigment, an additive rendering this pigment readily dispersible within aqueous cosmetic compositions.
• the subject of the invention is a pigment composition
• a pigment composition comprising, among other possible components:
• n 1 or 2
• M represents H or a cation
• n 1 when M is H and m is the valence of the cation when M is a cation
• a group G chosen from a saccharide or a group - [CH 2 -CHR 1 -O] q -R 2 or - [CH 2 -CH (CH 2 OH) -O] q -R 2 where:
• q represents an integer of 1 to 1000
• R represents independently H or a methyl
• R 2 represents H or an alkyl comprising from 1 to 3 carbon atoms, and a hydrocarbon chain comprising from 1 to 500 carbon atoms substituted with one or more G groups, phosphate (of formula OPO 3 (M) 2 / m ) and / or hydroxyl (OH).
• This pigment composition is suitable for introduction into a cosmetic composition, in particular an aqueous composition. It is generally in the form of a powder comprising the pigment and the additive intimately mixed, the additive being generally adsorbed or precipitated on the surface of the pigment.
• a pigment composition in the form of a powder is particularly advantageous with respect to a composition in liquid form (suspension, emulsion or solution).
• liquid phase based on solvents which can be toxic or flammable.
• a pigment composition in the form of a powder can advantageously be dispersed whatever the medium of the composition in which it is desired to disperse it.
• a pigment composition in liquid form it should be ensured that the liquid phase of the pigment composition and that of the composition in which it is desired to disperse it are compatible and can be mixed to form a homogeneous medium.
• a pigment composition in liquid form requires the introduction of a quantity of liquid phase which may be, either by its chemical nature or by its organoleptic qualities, undesired in the composition in which it is desired to disperse it.
• the possibilities of formulating a pigment composition in the form of a powder are much wider than those of a pigment composition in the form of a liquid.
• the pigment compositions according to the invention are dispersed very easily and effectively in an aqueous medium or in the continuous aqueous phase of an oil-in-water emulsion.
• the work carried out by the inventors in the context of the invention makes it possible to advance that the hydrophilic group R, of the additive of formula (I), would facilitate the dispersion of the pigmentary composition. in an aqueous medium.
• the pigment composition according to the invention advantageously has an improved water retention capacity compared to that of the pigment alone.
• the pigment composition according to the invention, and therefore the cosmetic composition in which it is dispersed have a good moisturizing power.
• the water retention capacity can notably be demonstrated by following the loss of mass as a function of time (thermogravimetric analysis), directly correlated with the evaporation of water, of an aqueous dispersion of a pigment composition. according to the invention compared to that of an aqueous dispersion of the pigment alone.
• this property can be related to the presence, in the chemical formula of the additives of the pigment composition (which are located on the surface of the pigment), of groups likely to be engaged in hydrogen bonds (oxygen atom or hydroxyl group for example) and thus to form hydrogen bonds with water, which would explain the increased water retention capacity.
• the pigment composition comprises an additive of formula (I) as defined above.
• the group - [CH 2 -CHR 1 -O] q -R 2 with R represents H is a polyethylene glycol (PEG).
• the group - [CH 2 -CHR 1 -O] q -R 2 with R represents a methyl corresponds to a polypropylene glycol (PPG).
• q is an integer from 1 to 500, especially from 1 to 100, preferably from 1 to 60.
• n 2 and the additive has the following formula ( ⁇ ):
• a hydrocarbon chain comprises from 1 to 500 carbon atoms, especially from 1 to 50, typically from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 5 carbon atoms.
• the hydrocarbon chains can be linear, branched or cyclic.
• Preferred hydrocarbon chains are alkyl groups (preferably having 1 to 10 carbon atoms, especially 1 to 5 carbon atoms, preferably 1 to 3, such as methyl, ethyl, n-propyl and isopropyl groups) alkenyl (preferably having 2 to 10 carbon atoms, especially 2 to 6), aryl (preferably 6 to 10 carbon atoms), arylalkyl (preferably 7 to 10 carbon atoms), or alkylaryl (preferably having 7 to 10 carbon atoms).
• the vinyl group is the preferred alkenyl group.
• the phenyl group is the preferred aryl.
• a saccharide may be a mono- or polysaccharide. Preferred saccharides are mono- or disaccharide, especially monosaccharides such as glucose, galactose or fructose. M can especially be an inorganic cation, such as Ag 3+ , Al 3+ , Fe 3+ , Fe 2+ , Ag 2+ ,
• DEA diethanolammonium
• R represents a group G of formula - [CH 2 -CH (CH 2 OH) -O] q -R 2 where q represents 1 and R 2 represents H),
• M and m are as defined above and q 'and q "independently represent an integer from 0 to 1000, generally from 0 to 500, in particular from 0 to 100, preferably from 0 to 60, such that the sum of q 'and q "independently represent an integer of 1 to 1000,
• R represents a group G of formula - [CH 2 -CHR 1 -0] q -R 2 where q represents the sum of q 'and q "and for the first units, R 1 is methyl and for the last 4 units R 1 is H and R 2 is H).
• a cosmetic composition in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion comprising acrylate copolymers, whereby a cosmetic composition comprising the pigment composition encapsulated by the acrylate copolymers is obtained.
• the acrylate copolymers comprise monomeric units chosen from acrylic acid, ethyl acrylate, methyl methacrylate, butyl acrylate, or ethyl hexyl acrylate.
• the cosmetic composition has the color. white due to the emulsion, but when rubbed, for example on the skin, the pigment composition is released from the acrylate copolymers and the cosmetic composition takes the color of the pigment composition.
• a cosmetic composition comprising a pigment composition comprising the additive of formula (III) (in particular (III ')) therefore has the capacity to change color (cosmetic composition called "color-changing").
• a cosmetic composition comprising:
• a pigment composition preferably in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion, comprising:
• a cosmetic composition comprising such a pigment composition is not wetted by skin sebum and is particularly suitable for application to oily skin.
• a biphasic cosmetic composition comprising on the one hand a phase aqueous composition in which the pigment composition comprising the additive of formula (V) is dispersed and, on the other hand, a fatty or oily phase comprising a hydrophobic-treated pigment (obtained by a treatment known in the state of the art, for example with a hydrogenated lecithin additive).
• a biphasic cosmetic composition each phase of which has its own color is obtained.
• Such a biphasic cosmetic composition may for example be a two-phase foundation.
• a pigment composition comprising:
• an anionic polymer of the sodium polyacrylate type, carboxymethylcellulose or xanthan gum is an anionic polymer of the sodium polyacrylate type, carboxymethylcellulose or xanthan gum.
• the aforementioned cosmetic composition is one of the objects of the present invention, has a very low intake of water, that is to say that its water absorption capacity is low.
• a cosmetic composition comprising such a pigment composition which comprises a high proportion of pigment composition, therefore a high proportion of pigment (thus being advantageously very colored) while remaining fluid, which is advantageous because of cosmetic compositions very viscous are generally not pleasant to use.
• a cosmetic composition comprising such a pigment composition is not wetted by the sebum of the skin and is particularly adapted to be applied to oily skin,
• glycereth-26 phosphate of formula ( ⁇ ) below:
• the pigment present in the composition according to the invention may be an organic, inorganic or hybrid organic-inorganic pigment or a mineral filler. These are typically inorganic pigments.
• pigments suitable for the implementation of the invention mention may in particular be made of titanium dioxide, zinc dioxide, zirconium or cerium oxides, as well as iron or chromium oxides, manganese, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue, and mixtures thereof.
• the preferred inorganic pigments are iron oxides, especially red iron oxide, yellow iron oxide, brown iron oxide, black iron oxide, titanium dioxide and mixtures thereof.
• the pigment is an iron oxide, including red iron oxide, yellow iron oxide, brown iron oxide, black iron oxide, and mixtures thereof.
• mineral fillers suitable for the implementation of the invention there may be mentioned talc, mica, kaolin, alumina, silica.
• the pigment composition comprises from 0.01% to 20% by weight, typically from 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 5% by weight, in particular of the order of 1% by weight. weight, of additive of formula (I) relative to the weight of the pigment / additive group of formula (I).
• the pigment composition according to the invention is hydrophilic and disperses easily in aqueous media, even viscous, and in the continuous aqueous phase of an oil-in-water emulsion.
• the inventors have discovered that the use of the pigment composition according to the invention in a cosmetic composition comprising an aqueous medium or an oil-in-water emulsion makes it possible to obtain an intense coloration and homogeneous.
• the coloration may for example be measured by spectrocolorimetry and / or spectrophotocolorimetry.
• the pigment composition may also contain in addition to the additive of formula (I) and the pigment of other additives such as polyacrylates or polyacrylic acids, polyethoxylated alkosilanes, surfactants, carboxylic acids comprising oxide chains ethylene, amino acids, chitosan, cellulose and its derivatives (cellulose ether, microcrystalline cellulose, carboxymethylcellulose and hydroxypropyl methylcellulose (HPMC)), sugars such as galactoarabinan or xanthan gum, silica and alumina.
• additives such as polyacrylates or polyacrylic acids, polyethoxylated alkosilanes, surfactants, carboxylic acids comprising oxide chains ethylene, amino acids, chitosan, cellulose and its derivatives (cellulose ether, microcrystalline cellulose, carboxymethylcellulose and hydroxypropyl methylcellulose (HPMC)), sugars such as galactoarabinan or xanthan gum, silica and alumina.
• the subject of the invention is a process for preparing a pigment composition as defined above. This process comprises the following steps:
• step c) optionally basification at a pH of 3 to 8 following step a) and optionally step b),
• step d) the filtration of the medium obtained following step a) and any steps b) and c), optionally followed by one or more steps of rinsing, drying and / or grinding to obtain the pigment composition in the form of a solid .
• the solvent is generally an aqueous solution, preferably water.
• all the steps of the process are carried out at ambient temperature (of the order of 25 ° C.) and at atmospheric pressure.
• Step a) may be carried out either by mixing the pigment and the additive simultaneously in the solvent, or by preparing on the one hand a mixture of the additive in a solvent (mixture 1), on the other hand a mixture of pigment and solvent (mixture 2), then mixing together the two mixtures (mixtures 1 + 2). No difference in the quality of the pigment composition obtained was observed by varying the order of addition of the additive, the pigment and the solvent.
• step b) that is to say to acidify the mixture obtained in step a) at a pH of less than or equal to 2 and / or adding a salt to the mixture obtained in step a).
• the dispersion of a pigment and an additive of formula (I) in an aqueous medium leads directly to a medium whose pH is less than or equal to 2, for example when a dispersion of phytic acid and a pigment in water is prepared, in this case, no acidification of the mixture obtained in step a) is necessary,
• the dispersion of the pigment and the additive of formula (I) in an aqueous medium leads to a medium of pH greater than 2.
• a step of acidifying the mixture at a pH of less than or equal to 2 is added.
• This acidification can be carried out by adding an acid (for example hydrochloric acid) to the medium, under conditions known to those skilled in the art.
• an acid for example hydrochloric acid
• the phosphate of the additive is in acid form (M represents H), and the adsorption of the phosphate additive in this form on the pigment is favored.
• the process may also comprise a step b) adding a salt to the mixture of step a).
• This salt is typically a salt capable of precipitating the additive according to the invention.
• the salt is added in stoichiometric amount of the phosphate groups of the additive.
• the process may also comprise a step b) of acidifying the mixture to a pH of less than or equal to 2 and adding a salt to the mixture, the acidification and the addition of a salt being able to be simultaneous or successive, and in this case case the addition of salt and acidification can be carried out in any order during step b).
• the method also comprises a subsequent basification step c) at a pH of 3 to 8, preferably of the order of 5.5.
• Basification may be effected by adding a base (eg, sodium hydroxide) to the medium under conditions known to those skilled in the art.
• a base eg, sodium hydroxide
• One or more medium agitation steps may be added between the process steps, typically for 30 minutes to one hour.
• a pigment composition which corresponds to a pigment treated with the additive of formula (I).
• the invention also relates to the pigment composition obtainable by the process defined above.
• the subject of the invention is the use of the pigment composition or of a pigment composition that can be obtained according to the abovementioned method for introduction into a cosmetic composition, in particular an aqueous composition (or for the preparation of a cosmetic composition, in particular an aqueous composition), as well as a cosmetic composition comprising the pigment composition.
• the cosmetic composition may for example be mascara, foundation, an eyeliner, an eyeshadow or cheek, a lipstick, a lip gloss. >> in English), possibly liquid soap, shampoo, conditioner, nail polish, preferably mascara or foundation.
• the cosmetic composition may be in the form of a monophasic or biphasic lotion, a water-in-oil or an oil-in-water emulsion, a gel, a cream or a powder.
• the cosmetic composition comprises a pigment composition whose pigment is iron oxide, a sequestering agent and a cosmetically acceptable anionic polymer.
• the pigments based on iron oxide have the disadvantage of being incompatible with the anionic polymers.
• cosmetic compositions comprising an iron oxide as a pigment and an anionic polymer are difficult to formulate because the iron oxide disperses poorly.
• a pigment composition according to the invention comprising iron oxide and one of the additives. defined above, disperses very well in a cosmetic composition comprising a cosmetically acceptable anionic polymer.
• a sequestering agent helps disperse the iron oxide in a cosmetic composition comprising a cosmetically acceptable anionic polymer.
• the inventors have demonstrated the existence of a synergistic effect of the sequestering agent and the additive on the dispersion of the iron oxide pigment, since the dispersibility of a composition pigment composition comprising iron oxide in a cosmetic composition comprising a sequestering agent and an anionic polymer unexpectedly goes beyond the sum of the dispersibilities:
• iron oxide in a cosmetic composition comprising a sequestering agent and an anionic polymer (no pigment composition comprising an additive as defined above), and
• a pigment composition according to the invention comprising iron oxide in a cosmetic composition comprising an anionic polymer and free of sequestering agent.
• the sequestering agent is chosen in particular from phytic acid, citric acid, gluconic acid, pentetic acid, ethylene diamine tetraacetic acid (EDTA), cyclodextrin, salts thereof and a mixture of these, preferably citric acid or a salt thereof.
• the salts are preferably formed with an alkali or alkaline earth metal, preferably an alkali metal, the sodium or potassium salts being particularly preferred.
• Potassium or sodium citrate, potassium or sodium gluconate, pentasodium pentetate, disodium salt of EDTA, trisodium salt of EDTA or tetrasodium salt of EDTA may be mentioned as sequestering agents. in the form of salt.
• the cosmetically acceptable anionic polymer is typically xanthan gum, carboxymethylcellulose or a polyacrylate
• the subject of the invention is a process for preparing a cosmetic composition comprising a pigment comprising a step of dispersing a pigment composition as defined above in an aqueous medium.
• the process for preparing the cosmetic composition is generally free of a grinding step. It can therefore be implemented without mill, which is an advantage because a grinding equipment is not necessary and the production cost of the cosmetic composition is lower.
• the subject of the invention is a cosmetic composition that can be obtained by this method.
• the cosmetic composition typically comprises the pigment composition as defined above and at least one cosmetically acceptable excipient.
• the examples and the figure below illustrate the invention.
• Examples 1 to 4 relate to the preparation of pigment compositions according to the invention and then their introduction into a cosmetic composition of the oil-in-water type.
• Examples 5 to 13, 15 and 16 relate to cosmetic compositions according to the invention comprising pigment compositions.
• Example 14 relates to the improvement of the water retention capacity of a pigment composition with respect to the pigment alone. * Components of the pigment composition
• the preparation thus obtained was mixed for 2 minutes with a spatula in order to obtain a colored aqueous cosmetic composition.
• the introduction of the pigment composition into the cosmetic composition does not include any grinding step.
• Covasop is a dispersion of pigment in propylene glycol. It makes it possible to degrade the color of the mixture [emulsion / pigment composition] to reveal color differences.
• the dispersion used is White Covasop W9775 (Sensient ® ) containing titanium dioxide
• the dispersion used is the Covasop Red W3774 containing red iron oxide.
• the equipment used is a Minolta Spectrophotometer CM-3300d, and allows to measure the color in the Lab repository. Measuring the color of a colored aqueous cosmetic composition containing the treated pigment with respect to measuring the color of a colored aqueous cosmetic composition containing the untreated pigment, referred to as a reference, makes it possible to obtain color differences, AL * being the difference in clarity, Aa * the difference in the shades red / green and Ab * the difference in shades yellow / blue.
• pigment composition [black iron oxide / additive of formula (II ')] with respect to an oil-in-water emulsion comprising untreated black iron oxide (reference).
• a dispersion of white pigment is added to the emulsion to attenuate the color (see above), it is mainly the values of AL * (clarity, black and white) which are important and which indicate that the emulsion obtained is more or less black.
• AL * clarity, black and white
• a negative AL * is synonymous with a darker color than the reference, and even more black that the absolute value of AL * is important. The more the emulsion is black (more intense black color), the better the iron oxide is dispersed in the emulsion.
• Table 3 Colorimetric results for an oil-in-water emulsion comprising a pigment composition [black iron oxide / additive of formula (II ')] with respect to an oil-in-water emulsion comprising untreated black iron oxide ( reference).
• Table 5 Colorimetric results for an oil-in-water emulsion comprising a pigment composition [black iron oxide / additive of formula (II)) with respect to an oil-in-water emulsion comprising black iron oxide not additive (reference).
• Table 6 Colorimetric results for an oil-in-water emulsion comprising a pigment composition [pigment / additive of formula ( ⁇ )] relative to an oil-in-water emulsion comprising an untreated pigment (reference). The results in Table 6 show that the additive used in the pigment composition is also effective for other pigments.
• Table 7 Colorimetric results for an oil-in-water emulsion comprising a pigment composition [black iron oxide / additive of formula (IV)] with respect to an oil-in-water emulsion comprising untreated black iron oxide (reference).
• This additive is also effective in improving the dispersion of the powder in an oil-in-water emulsion compared to the pigment used alone (reference).
• pigment composition [pigment / additive of formula (IV)] with respect to an oil-in-water emulsion comprising an untreated pigment (reference).
• Table 9 Colorimetric results for an oil-in-water emulsion comprising a pigment composition [black iron oxide / additive of formula (V)] relative to an oil-in-water emulsion comprising untreated black iron oxide (reference)
• Table 10 Colorimetric results for an oil-in-water emulsion comprising a pigment composition [pigment / additive of formula (V)] relative to an oil-in-water emulsion comprising an untreated pigment (reference)
• Examples 1 to 4 demonstrate that the pigment compositions according to the invention are easily dispersed in an oil-like cosmetic composition in water, without any grinding step being necessary to incorporate the pigment composition during the preparation. of the cosmetic composition.
• compositions comprising the basic compositions
• Table 1 1 Composition of the biphasic foundation
• the pigment compositions containing the additive of formula (V) were introduced into the water.
• Unipure red LC381 HLC hydrophobic red iron oxide
• Unipure white LC981 HLC hydrophobic titanium dioxide
• the fatty phase was then poured onto the aqueous phase to form a biophasic medium.
• the biphasic foundation obtained comprises the pigment composition according to the invention in the aqueous phase whereas Unipure red LC381 HLC and Unipure white LC981 HLC are in the oily phase. The foundation must be shaken before use.
• Example 6 illustrates the affinity for water of the pigmentary composition containing phytic acid (additive of formula (V)) in a two-phase cosmetic foundation composition.
• Example 6 O / W foundation composition comprising a pigment composition comprising the additive of formula ( ⁇ )
• the Covathick 2009 was dispersed in glycerine and then introduced into the water with stirring, then the four premixed pigment compositions were introduced without grinding into the gelled aqueous phase.
• SF Natpure was introduced into the aqueous phase containing the pigment compositions.
• the aqueous phase containing the pigment compositions was heated to 60 ° C and stirred into the macadamia oil heated to 60 ° C.
• the FL Submica was added to the final emulsion.
• Examples 7 to 9 illustrate the property of very low water intake of the pigment composition containing the additive of formula (V) in a cosmetic composition of the mascara, foundation and eyeliner type.
• Example 7 O / W Mascara Comprising a Pigment Composition Comprising the Additive of Formula (V)
• the fatty phase composed of RW136 base and dimethicone was heated to 85 ° C.
• the water and the preservative were also heated to 85 ° C., and the thickener based on xanthan gum was introduced into this aqueous phase.
• This aqueous phase was introduced with stirring into the fatty phase.
• water containing triethanolamine was heated to 70 ° C and added to the preceding mixture.
• the cyclopentasiloxane was then introduced into the emulsion.
• the pigment composition was then introduced without grinding.
• the acrylic copolymer was added to the emulsion.
• Example 8 Watercolor foundation comprising a pigment composition comprising the additive of formula (V)
• Example 9 White Eyeliner Comprising a Pigment Composition Comprising the Additive of Formula (V)
• a monopropylene glycol 1, 4 A monopropylene glycol 1, 4
• Thickagent LC Xanthan Gum (and) Hectorite (and) Cellulose 0.7
• Table 15 Composition of the white eyeliner
• the thickagent LC was dispersed in the monopropylene glycol and then introduced with stirring in water.
• the gel obtained was diluted in phase B.
• the pigment composition was dispersed in glycerine and then introduced into the gel.
• Covavryl MS1 1 was introduced.
• Examples 7 to 9 above illustrate the property of very low water intake of the pigment composition containing the additive of formula (V) in a cosmetic composition of the mascara, foundation and eyeliner type.
• Example 10 Cosmetic Composition of the "Color Changing" E / H Type Comprising a Pigment Composition Comprising the Additive of Formula ( ⁇ )
• Table 16 Composition of the cosmetic composition type "color changing"
• the ingredients of phase A were mixed and heated to 80 ° C and then cooled to 50 ° C.
• the cyclopentasiloxane was then introduced into the mixture.
• the water, salt, propylene glycol and the preservative were mixed and heated to 50 ° C and then slowly introduced into the fatty phase with stirring (vortex).
• Mica, and lecithin-treated titanium dioxide were then introduced into the emulsion.
• the mixture of the three pigment compositions containing the additive (V) was added to the water / glycerin mixture and then the Covacryl SJ5 was added. This phase was then introduced into the emulsion.
• the foundation has an off-white appearance and the beige color develops when applied to the skin.
• Example 11 Shampoo comprising a pigment composition comprising the additive of formula (V)
• Table 18 Composition of the aqueous corrective foundation
• the four pigment compositions were dispersed in the isononyl isononanoate with stirring.
• Phase B was heated at 90 ° C until the waxes melted and then cooled to 80 ° C.
• Phase A was incorporated in phase B with stirring until a homogeneous mixture was obtained.
• Phase C was introduced into the mixture kept at 80 ° C. Once the mixture was cooled to 60 ° C, the phases D, E, F and G were introduced one after the other with stirring.
• Examples 12 and 13 illustrate the ability of the pigment composition containing the additive of formula (III) or (V) to absorb a large amount of oil in an aqueous gel correcting cosmetic foundation composition for oily skin ( Example 12) and oily gel foundation (Example 13).
• Example 14 Improvement of the Water Retention Capacity of a Pigment Composition Comprising Red Iron Oxide Compared to Red Iron Oxide
• a 40% dispersion in water of the pigment composition of Example 2 reference 8 (comprising red iron oxide and the additive of formula (III ')) on the one hand, and a dispersion of 40% in red iron oxide water, on the other hand, were brought from an initial temperature of 25 ° C to a temperature of 50 ° C by heating at 1 ° C / min (temperature of 50 ° C). C reached in 25 min), then the temperature of 50 ° C was maintained. Weight loss over time was monitored with a Perkin Elmer TGA7 thermogravimeter.
• the attached figure shows that the 40% dispersion in water of the pigment composition according to the invention loses less 40% water than the dispersion of iron oxide.
• Example 15 Dispersion of the pigment composition of Example 2 / experiment 2 in a cosmetic composition comprising a sequestering agent and an anionic polymer
• Phase A was incorporated into phase B with stirring at room temperature (25 ° C). Stirring was maintained until a homogeneous gel was obtained. Phase C was incorporated with stirring at the propeller at room temperature. Stirring was maintained for 5 minutes at 800 rpm.
• Example 16 Foundation comprising a pigment composition comprising iron oxide, a sequestering agent and an anionic polymer
• Phase B Composition of the foundation Phase B was dispersed in phase A with vigorous stirring.
• Phase C was added to the resulting mixture.
• a 2009 Covathick gel was prepared by dispersing the powder in water with a Rayneri apparatus and shaking for 1 minute at 13,500 rpm with an ultraturate apparatus.
• Phase D was then added to the mixture of phases A, B and C. The resulting mixture was heated to 60 ° C in a good condition. of water.
• Phase E was then added with stirring, followed by phase F. The mixture obtained was homogenized for 5 minutes.

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• 2011
  • 2011-03-09 FR FR1151922A patent/FR2972456B1/fr active Active
• 2012
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  • 2012-03-08 EP EP12708542.1A patent/EP2683349A2/de not_active Withdrawn
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