Classifications

• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
  • A61K8/0216—Solid or semisolid forms
  • A61K8/022—Powders; Compacted Powders
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
  • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
  • A61K8/36—Carboxylic acids; Salts or anhydrides thereof
  • A61K8/365—Hydroxycarboxylic acids; Ketocarboxylic acids
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/92—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
  • A61K8/922—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof of vegetable origin
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
  • A61Q19/08—Anti-ageing preparations
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
  • A61K2800/20—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of the composition as a whole
  • A61K2800/30—Characterized by the absence of a particular group of ingredients
  • A61K2800/31—Anhydrous
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
  • A61K2800/20—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of the composition as a whole
  • A61K2800/30—Characterized by the absence of a particular group of ingredients
  • A61K2800/34—Free of silicones

Definitions

• the present invention relates to a cosmetic composition in the form of a balm comprising defined quantities of powders, pasty fatty substances and oil, as well as a particular fatty phase gelling agent, which composition is capable of transforming into powder after application to the skin. It also relates to the use of this composition for caring for and / or making up the skin, in particular for masking skin imperfections, such as wrinkles, pores, dark circles and / or oily skin.
• compositions generally intended for making up the skin, have appeared on the market, which are in the form of an anhydrous balm capable of being transformed into powder by light massage on the skin.
• These compositions have the advantage of containing large quantities of powders suitable for masking skin imperfections, tightening the pores, matifying the skin and / or imparting a velvety appearance to the skin, while being easy to dose and pleasant to apply, including understood on the finger, due to their melting texture.
• these compositions are better suited for dry or dehydrated skin than powder textures. Powders are also less likely to migrate into fine lines and wrinkles when they are conveyed in a composition in the form of a balm.
• compositions generally contain silicone compounds, in particular volatile and non-volatile silicone oils, combined with silicone elastomers and / or silicone resins or other synthetic compounds of petrochemical origin, such as linear and branched paraffins associated with styrene copolymers.
• silicones in cosmetic products is increasingly contested because of, on the one hand, their bioaccumulation, especially in aquatic systems and, on the other hand, a suspicion of endocrine disrupting effect which weighs on certain silicones. We are also looking to replace materials petrochemical raw materials to anticipate the depletion of petroleum resources.
• Stabilization of this type of composition also constitutes a challenge, insofar as they are rich in oils which tend to release and thus form an oily film on the surface of the composition.
• the increase in the rate of powders and pasty fatty substances can certainly limit this phenomenon, but this improvement is obtained at the expense of the sensoriality of the product which becomes very hard and braking and lacks evanescence on application.
• compositions devoid of silicone compounds and adapted to transform into powder after application to the skin have been described in document US 2017/0143616. These compositions all contain from 20 to 50% of specific powders, from 3 to 15% of a lipophilic gelling agent which may be the triester of glycerol and 12-hydroxystearic acid and at least 20% of oils, as well as optionally of pasty fatty substance.
• a lipophilic gelling agent which may be the triester of glycerol and 12-hydroxystearic acid and at least 20% of oils, as well as optionally of pasty fatty substance.
• the compositions exemplified in this document do not however contain pasty fatty substances and the weight ratio of powders to oils is always less than 1.2 and generally 1.0.
• the subject of the invention is therefore an anhydrous cosmetic composition containing:
• At least one fatty phase structuring agent comprising (i) at least one fatty phase gelling agent, chosen from: hydrophobic modified clays, hydrophobic modified pyrogenic silicas, dextrin palmitate or myristate, mixtures of glycerides of fatty acids C16-C26, the triesters of linear fatty acids saturated in CV C30, optionally hydroxylated, and of mono- or polyglycerol, cellulose derivatives and their mixtures, and (ii) at least one pasty fatty substance, which is a fatty substance with reversible liquid / solid state change, having an anisotropic crystalline organization in the solid state and comprising at a temperature of 23 ° C. a liquid fraction and a solid fraction,
• the above percentages being expressed relative to the total weight of the composition, the weight ratio between the total amount of powders (a) and pasty fatty substances (c) (ii) and the amount of oil (b) being between 1.6 and 2.6 and the composition being free of bicarbonate salt, and not containing a silicone compound.
• the subject of the invention is also the cosmetic use of this composition for caring for and / or making up the skin, in particular for masking skin imperfections, such as wrinkles, pores, and / or oily skin and / or to correct blemishes, such as dull, yellow, dark circles, age spots and redness. It also relates to the cosmetic use of the above composition as a skin care composition or as a makeup base.
• a cosmetic process for caring for and / or making up the skin in particular for masking skin imperfections, such as wrinkles, pores, and / or oily skin, and / or for correcting skin imperfections, such as dull complexion, yellow complexion, dark circles, age spots and redness, comprising the application to the skin of the above composition.
• composition according to the invention is easy to spread on the skin and gives the latter, after application, a velvety and powdery finish without feeling of discomfort, in particular of dryness. It is stable over time and / or in temperature and can in particular be stored for at least four weeks at 50 ° C., corresponding to storage for approximately thirty-six months at room temperature, without its appearance being substantially modified, in particular without the phenomenon of exudation, sedimentation of powders or phase separation being observed.
• composition according to the invention is an anhydrous composition, in the sense that it contains less than 5% by weight of water, advantageously less than 3% by weight of water, or even less than 1% by weight of water. In any event, it is preferable for the water contained in the composition to be provided only by its constituent ingredients.
• composition contains one or more oils.
• oil means a compound which is liquid at room temperature (25 ° C.) and atmospheric pressure (105 Pa) which, when it is introduced in an amount of at least 1% by weight in l water at 25 ° C, is not at all soluble in water, or soluble up to less than 10% by weight, relative to the weight of oil introduced into the water.
• the oils can be volatile or non-volatile.
• non-volatile oil is meant in this description an oil remaining on the skin at 25 ° C and atmospheric pressure for at least one hour, in the absence of friction, and / or having a pressure of vapor below 0.001 mm Hg under these conditions.
• the oils included in the composition according to the invention may or may not be volatile; they are advantageously non-volatile. As a variant, it may be a mixture of non-volatile oils (majority by weight) and volatile oils (majority by weight). Examples of volatile oils are in particular linear Cn to C 14 alkanes and branched C 12 -C 16 alkanes. In addition, it is preferred that the non-volatile oils are chosen from hydrocarbon oils, that is to say that they contain exclusively carbon, hydrogen and optionally oxygen atoms.
• non-volatile oils examples include:
• esters of acids and mono-alcohol chosen from: mono- and polyesters of linear C 2 -C 10 saturated acids (preferably in CV.-Cio) and of linear mono-alcohols saturated in Cio-Cis (preferably C10-C14), mono- and polyesters of C 10 -C 20 saturated linear acids and of branched or unsaturated C 3 -C 20 mono-alcohols (preferably C3-C10); mono- and polyesters of branched or unsaturated C5-C20 acids and of branched or unsaturated C 5 -C 20 mono alcohols; mono- and polyesters of branched or unsaturated C 5 -C 20 acids and of linear C 2 -C 4 mono-alcohols;
• triglycerides of C6-C12 fatty acids such as triglycerides of caprylic and capric acids and triheptanoin;
• C10-C20 fatty acids such as linoleic, lauric and myristic acids
• C10-C20 fatty alcohols such as octyldodecanol and oleyl alcohol
• hydrocarbons such as vegetable squalane extracted from olive oil
• dialkyl carbonates such as dicaprylyl carbonate and diethylhexyl carbonate
• dialkyl ethers such as dicaprylyl ether
• esters of acids and monoalcohols mention may in particular be made of monoesters such as the mixture of caprate and coconut caprylate, ethyl macadamate, the ester shea butter ethyl, isostearyl isostearate, isononyl isononanoate, ethylhexyl isononanoate, hexyl neopentanoate, ethylhexyl neopentanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate , isopropyl myristate, octyldodecyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, ethylhexyl palmitate, hexyl laurate, isoamyl laurate, cetostearyl nonanoate, propylheptyl capylate and mixtures thereof.
• monoesters such as the mixture
• esters which can be used are the diesters of acids and monoalcohols such as disopropyl adipate, diethylhexyl adipate, diisopropyl sebacate and diisoamyl sebacate. It is preferred to use an ester of acid (s) and monoalcohol (s) of plant origin such as the mixture of caprate and coconut caprylate.
• Examples of vegetable oils are in particular the oils of wheat germ, sunflower, argan, hibiscus, coriander, grapeseed, sesame, corn, apricot, castor, shea, avocado, olive, soy, sweet almond, palm, rapeseed, cotton, hazelnut, macadamia, jojoba, alfalfa, poppy, pumpkin, sesame, squash, rapeseed, black currant, evening primrose, lavender, borage, millet, barley, quinoa, rye, safflower,nadooulier, passionflower, muscat rose or camellia.
• Preferred oils for use in the present invention are the mono and polyesters of saturated linear acids in C2-C10 (preferably in CY.-Cio) and of linear monoalcohols saturated in Cio-Cis (preferably C10-C14 ), triglycerides of C6-C12 fatty acids, dialkyl ethers and their mixtures.
• the oils can represent from 20 to 40%, preferably from 25 to 30%, of the total weight of the composition.
• the total amount of mono- and polyesters of C 2 -C 10 saturated linear acids and of Cio-Cis saturated linear mono-alcohols, when present, is less than 30% of the total weight of the composition and preferably less than or equal to 25% of the total weight of the composition.
• the composition according to the invention contains from 20 to 50% by weight, and in particular from 30 to 45% by weight, of one or more powders, relative to the total weight of the composition.
• the powders considered may be any material in powder form, whatever its function, which is more particularly chosen from fillers, pigments, nacres and flakes and their mixtures. It is preferred that the fillers represent at least 50% of the weight of the powders and more preferably from 60 to 100% or even from 80 to 100% of the weight of the powders.
• fillers is meant particles of any shape, colorless or white, mineral or organic, insoluble in the medium of the composition regardless of the temperature at which the composition is produced. These fillers can fulfill different functions in the composition and in particular matify the skin and / or blur skin irregularities (pores, dark circles, wrinkles, etc.). They can also modify the texture and in particular the feel of the composition.
• pigments are meant colored particles of any shape, mineral or organic, insoluble in the medium of the composition whatever the temperature at which the composition is produced and which are intended to color the skin after application of the composition. Mention may be made, among the mineral pigments, of metal oxides, in particular titanium dioxide, optionally surface-treated, zirconium, zinc or cerium oxides, as well as iron, titanium or chromium oxides, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue.
• metal oxides in particular titanium dioxide, optionally surface-treated, zirconium, zinc or cerium oxides, as well as iron, titanium or chromium oxides, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue.
• pigments of type D & C lacquers based on barium, strontium, calcium, or aluminum and As charcoal and flakes, there may be mentioned mineral particles of different natures, in particular based on natural or synthetic mica (fluorphlogopite), borosilicate, silica or alumina, covered with one or more c ouches of metal oxides (in particular of titanium, iron, chromium and / or bismuth oxychloride).
• At least one filler which is in the form of porous or hollow microparticles, preferably porous. These microparticles are in principle substantially spherical.
• These charges can in particular be chosen from: - organic fillers such as: powders of polysaccharides and in particular of native starch, modified starch or cellulose; powders of acrylic polymers such as poly (methyl methacrylate), polyamides, polyolefins (including polyethylene); dried seaweed powders such as Corallina officinalis;
• inorganic fillers such as silica, clays, perlite, talc, mica, boron nitride, hydroxyapatite, glass and ceramics;
• composite powders consisting of at least one of the above powders coated with at least one other of these powders, the composite powders obtained being for example in the form of core-shell particles.
• modified starches are particularly preferred for use in the present invention.
• the starches are preferably chosen from corn, rice, tapioca or wheat starch, modified or not.
• modified starches are starches which are optionally pre-gelatinized and / or oxidized, which are esterified with an alkenylsuccinic anhydride, in particular with octenylsuccinic anhydride or dodecylsuccinic, optionally in the presence of calcium chloride, as well as etherified starches, in particular hydroxypropylated or carboxymethylated, and cationic starches, in particular quaternized. Mention may also be made of starch crosslinked by sodium trimetaphosphate.
• the composition according to the invention contains a combination of certain fatty phase structuring agents.
• fatty phase structuring is meant a compound capable of thickening the oils contained in the composition, chosen in particular from waxes, fatty phase gelling agents and pasty fatty substances, as well as their mixtures.
• wax designates, in the context of this description, a fatty substance solid at 25 ° C., with reversible solid / liquid state change, having a melting point generally between 30 and 160 ° C, preferably between 50 and 90 ° C, as measured by DSC.
• waxes are in particular waxes of animal or vegetable origin, such as beeswax, Chinese insect, candelilla, camauba or acacia; vegetable oils hydrogenated and esterified with a C 8 -C 18 fatty alcohol, in particular rapeseed, soybean, sunflower, jojoba, copra and castor oil; esters of C14-C30 saturated linear fatty acids and C16-C36 saturated linear fatty alcohols; linear and saturated C10-C30 acids; linear and saturated C8-C30 alcohols; and their mixtures.
• animal or vegetable origin such as beeswax, Chinese insect, candelilla, camauba or acacia
• vegetable oils hydrogenated and esterified with a C 8 -C 18 fatty alcohol in particular rapeseed, soybean, sunflower, jojoba, copra and castor oil
• esters of C14-C30 saturated linear fatty acids and C16-C36 saturated linear fatty alcohols linear and saturated C10-C30 acids; linear and saturated
• the waxes can represent from 1 to 10% by weight, and preferably from 2 to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
• fatty phase gelling agents reference is made to the compounds modifying the rheology of the fatty phase by formation of a three-dimensional network.
• the compounds of this type used according to the invention are hydrophobic modified clays (in particular bentonites and hectorites), in particular with di-stearyl di-methyl ammonium chloride; hydrophobic modified fumed silicas; dextrin palmitate and myristate; mixtures of glycerides of fatty acids (preferably saturated and linear) C16-C26 such as Nomcort ® HKG compound or triesters of saturated linear fatty acids and C8-C30, optionally hydroxylated, and mono- or polyglycerol , such as glycerol trihydroxystearate; cellulose derivatives; and their mixtures.
• the fatty phase gelling agent advantageously comprises at least one triester of glycerol and hydroxy stearic acid, preferably the triester of 12-hydroxystearic acid and glycerol, identified by the INCI name "TRIHYDROXYSTEARIN” and which is in particular commercially available. from the company Elementis Specialties under the tradename Thixcin ® R. other oily phase gelling agents may alternatively or additionally be included in the composition, for example selected from those listed above.
• the fatty phase gelling agents can represent from 3 to 10% of the weight of the composition.
• pasty fatty substances that can be used as fatty phase structuring agents are defined as fatty substances with reversible liquid / solid state change, having an anisotropic crystalline organization in the solid state and comprising a liquid fraction at a temperature of 23 ° C. and a solid fraction.
• the starting melting point of the pasty fatty substance can be less than 23 ° C.
• the liquid fraction of the pasty fatty substance measured at 23 ° C. can represent 9 to 97% by weight of the pasty fatty substance.
• This liquid fraction at 23 ° C preferably represents between 15 and 85%, more preferably between 40 and 85% by weight of the pasty fatty substance.
• the melting temperature corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak as described in standard ISO 11357-3; 1999 and measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC).
• the liquid fraction by weight of the pasty fatty substance at 23 ° C is equal to the ratio of the enthalpy of fusion consumed at 23 ° C to pass from the solid state to the liquid state over the enthalpy of fusion of the pasty fatty substance .
• the pasty fatty substance can in particular be chosen from:
• polyol ethers such as pentaerythritol and polyalkylene glycol ethers
• polyol esters and more particularly: (a) polyglycerol esters, in particular condensates of adipic acid and glycerol, for which part of the hydroxyl groups of the glycerols have reacted with a mixture of fatty acids such as stearic acid, capric acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid and 12-hydroxystearic acid, such as the product sold under the brand name Softisan ® 649 by Sasol, or a polyglycerol ester (obtained by condensation of two to ten, preferably three or four, glycerol units) and of a fatty acid containing 8 to 30 carbon atoms, such as 3-polygyceryl polyricinoleate, (b) pentaerythritol esters, (c) the esters of dimer diol and dimer diacid, if appropriate, esterified on their alcohol (s) or free acid (s) function (s), in particular the dimer dilin
• pasty fatty substances are chosen from: vegetable butters, hydrogenated vegetable oils, and their mixtures.
• the pasty fatty substances can represent from 10 to 35% by weight, preferably from 15 to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
• the fatty phase structuring agent contains in particular, as pasty fatty substance, at least one ester of polyglycerol and of a fatty acid containing from 12 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 18 to 22 carbon atoms, chosen for example from saturated linear acids, saturated branched acids, monounsaturated linear acids and their mixtures, optionally mono- or polyhydroxylated.
• polyglycerol esters can come from the functionalization of vegetable waxes.
• This product can represent from 0.1 to 5% and preferably from 0.5 to 3% of the total weight of the composition.
• this constituent is particularly useful in the case where it is desired to incorporate into the composition according to the invention at least one polyol, which can for example be chosen from alkane diols and alkane triols, such as glycerin, propylene glycol (propane-1,2-diol), dipropylene glycol, propane-1,3-diol, butane-1,2-diol , butane-1,4-diol, butane-2,3-diol, butane-1,3-diol, pentane-1,5-diol, pentane-1,2-diol, hexane- 1,6-diol, octane-1,8-diol, 2-methylpentane-2,4-diol, methylpropanediol, isopentyldiol or a mixture thereof. It is preferred to use glycerin or propylene glycol, advantageous
• An important characteristic of the present invention which guarantees the stability of the composition, is constituted by the ratio between the total amount of powders (a) and pasty fatty substances (c) (ii) and the amount of oil (s) (b) which is between 1.6 and 2.6, for example between 1.7 and 2.5 and preferably between 1.8 and 2.0. It has in fact been observed that a ratio [(a) + (c) (ii)] / (b) of less than 1.6 gives rise to stability problems, in particular the release of oil at the surface of the composition. In addition, a ratio greater than 2.6 leads to a composition which is too hard, thick and / or which spreads with difficulty on the skin.
• composition according to the invention may also comprise additives chosen in particular from UV filters, perfumes, antioxidants such as tocopherol, dyes, preservatives and their mixtures.
• UV filters which can be used according to the invention include organic or inorganic UV filters active in UVA and / or UVB.
• the organic screening agents may be chosen especially from: benzophenones such as that identified by the INCI name diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl HEXYL BENZOATE (Uvinul ® A Plus from BASF) and benzophenone-3; benzotriazoles, such as that identified by the name INCI METHYLENE BIS-BENZOTRIAZOLYL TETRAMETHYLBUTYLPHENOL (Tinosorb ® M from BASF); triazines such as those identified by the INCI names Ethylhexyltriazone (Uvinul ® T 150 from BASF) and BIS ETH YLHEXYLOX YPHEN OL methoxyphenyl triazine (Tinosorb S ® BASF); benzimidazoles, such as that identified by the name INCI PHENYLBENZIMIDAZOLE SULFONIC ACID (Eusolex ® 232 from MERCK); hydroxybenzoates, such as ETHYL
• Inorganic UV filters are coated or uncoated metallic oxide pigments, such as, for example, titanium oxide pigments (amorphous or crystallized in rutile form and / or anatase), iron, zinc, zirconium or cerium.
• the inorganic UV filters which can be used according to the invention are metal oxide particles having an average elementary particle size less than or equal to 0.5 ⁇ m, more preferably between 0.05 and 0.5 ⁇ m, and even more preferably between 0.010 and 0.1 pm, and even more particularly between 0.015 and 0.050 pm.
• the coated pigments are pigments which have undergone one or more surface treatments of a chemical, electronic, mechanochemical and / or mechanical nature with compounds such as amino acids, beeswax, fatty acids, fatty alcohols, anionic surfactants, lecithins, sodium, potassium, zinc, iron or aluminum salts of fatty acids, metal alkoxides (titanium or aluminum), polyethylene, silicones, proteins (collagen, elastin) , alkanolamines, silicon oxides, metal oxides or sodium hexametaphosphate.
• a chemical, electronic, mechanochemical and / or mechanical nature such as amino acids, beeswax, fatty acids, fatty alcohols, anionic surfactants, lecithins, sodium, potassium, zinc, iron or aluminum salts of fatty acids, metal alkoxides (titanium or aluminum), polyethylene, silicones, proteins (collagen, elastin) , alkanolamines, silicon oxides, metal oxides
• dyes which can be used in the composition according to the invention mention may in particular be made of azo dyes and triarylmethanes, compounds of the phthalo family and plant dyes, among which there may be mentioned in particular:
• the indigo dyes which can in particular be extracted from the following plants: the persicaria (Persicaria tinctoria or Polygonum tinctorium), the indigo tree (Indigofera tinctoria), Y Indigofera suffruticosa, Y Indigofera arrecta, locust (Lonchocarpus cyanescens), wallflower (Cheiranthus fenestralis), pastel;
• Chlorophylls a, b c and d Chlorophylls a, b c and d
• flavonoids including flavanols and anthocyanidols which may be derived from saplings (Réséda luteola), for example;
• composition according to the invention does not contain a synthetic polymer.
• this composition contains an amount of at least 90% by weight of ingredients of plant origin, as determined according to standard ASTM D7026.
• composition according to the invention is in the form of a cream or balm. It may be a skin care composition, in particular an anti-aging or moisturizing composition, a makeup base or a makeup composition, such as a foundation, a blush. or an eyeshadow.
• composition according to the invention is generally intended to be applied to the face, the neck and / or the Vietnameselleté. As a variant, it can be applied to the whole body, in particular to the face, the neck, the Vietnameselleté, the bust, the hands, the arms, the feet, the legs and / or the belly. This composition can be applied one or more times a day, for example morning and / or evening.
• Example 1 Balm capable of transforming into powder
• a balm was prepared by mixing the ingredients below, and in the weight proportions indicated below.
• This balm was prepared by mixing and heating the constituents of phase A to 75 ° C, then cooling between 60 and 65 ° C followed by the introduction of phase B.
• the mixture was turbinated in a rotor-type device. stator for 20 minutes, then cooled below 50 ° C before adding the other constituents one by one, with stirring using a deflocculating turbine.
• the product obtained was then packaged in pots between 42 and 45 ° C.
• Example 2 Stability test
• compositions A to H according to the invention were prepared and two comparative compositions I and J in a similar manner to Example 1, by varying only the nature of the oils, as well as the amounts of oil, of pasty fatty substances and of powders and hence the ratio (R) of the total amount of powders and pastes to the total amount of oil.
• compositions were then evaluated after storage at 50 ° C for one month.
• compositions A to H according to the invention are stable, that is to say that they have a homogeneous appearance, after several weeks of storage at 50 ° C., unlike the comparative compositions I and J which show phenomena of exudation after only one week of storage at this temperature.
• Example 3 Sensory tests A composition according to the invention was evaluated, in a sensory analysis booth, by a panel of 20 women of 35 years of middle age, mainly having normal to dry facial skin. The volunteers applied the desired quantity of product to the entire face, before responding to a questionnaire just after application. 75% of the panelists considered that the composition was pleasant in terms of its texture (rich but not oily), its ease of application and its comfortable rendering, the skin appearing soft but neither shiny nor sticky.

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• 2018
  • 2018-11-13 FR FR1860445A patent/FR3088197B1/fr active Active
• 2019
  • 2019-10-23 CN CN201980074449.3A patent/CN113272023A/zh active Pending
  • 2019-10-23 JP JP2021525810A patent/JP2022507312A/ja active Pending
  • 2019-10-23 WO PCT/FR2019/052528 patent/WO2020099749A2/fr unknown
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