EP4351511A1 - Kombination von ausgangsmaterialien und kosmetische zusammensetzung mit dieser kombination - Google Patents

Kombination von ausgangsmaterialien und kosmetische zusammensetzung mit dieser kombination

Info

Publication number
EP4351511A1
EP4351511A1 EP22735021.2A EP22735021A EP4351511A1 EP 4351511 A1 EP4351511 A1 EP 4351511A1 EP 22735021 A EP22735021 A EP 22735021A EP 4351511 A1 EP4351511 A1 EP 4351511A1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
combination
cosmetic composition
cosmetic
mixture
raw materials
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Pending
Application number
EP22735021.2A
Other languages
English (en)
French (fr)
Inventor
Vanessa DESOEUVRE
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Laboratoires de Biologie Vegetale Yves Rocher SA
Original Assignee
Laboratoires de Biologie Vegetale Yves Rocher SA
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Laboratoires de Biologie Vegetale Yves Rocher SA filed Critical Laboratoires de Biologie Vegetale Yves Rocher SA
Publication of EP4351511A1 publication Critical patent/EP4351511A1/de
Pending legal-status Critical Current

Links

Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/31—Hydrocarbons
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/85—Polyesters
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
    • A61Q1/04—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments for lips
    • A61Q1/06—Lipsticks
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
    • A61Q1/08—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments for cheeks, e.g. rouge
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/12—Face or body powders for grooming, adorning or absorbing
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/42—Colour properties
    • A61K2800/43—Pigments; Dyes

Definitions

  • the invention belongs to the field of cosmetics, in particular care, hygiene and/or makeup for keratin materials, preferably lips and/or skin, more particularly to that of compositions such as foundation, sunscreen, lipstick or eye shadow.
  • the present invention relates to a combination of raw materials comprising an alkane or mixture of C12 to C30 alkanes, preferably C12 to C15, a film-forming agent, and at least one filler whose oil uptake of linen, according to standard EN ISO 787-5, is greater than 45 g/100g, to its use in a cosmetic composition, said cosmetic composition being chosen from a foundation, a sunscreen, a lipstick and a shadow. eyelid ; to the use of the cosmetic composition for the care, hygiene and/or makeup of keratin materials, preferably the lips and/or the skin, as well as to a cosmetic process for the care, hygiene and/or or for making up keratin materials, preferably the lips and/or the skin.
  • the first family of materials concerned are those of volatile emollients. These materials belong to the category of silicones, constituting the synthetic chemical family of cyclic silicones of the cyclosiloxane type, of which the D4 and D5 and the linear silicones of the low molecular weight dimethicone type belong. Due to their high volatility, these silicones make it possible to fix the texture and color on the skin and thus achieve very high levels of hold (up to 24 hours). This long hold also results in a notion of "non-transfer", that is to say, that the texture and the color do not settle on a support such as a glass, a cup, a fabric or a cigarette.
  • Silicones also exist in a non-volatile form. It can then be siloxane resins (called MQ - polymethylsilsesquioxane, for example) or elastomers (dimethicone crospolymer type for example). Resins are relatively high molecular weight polymers with a three-dimensional structure. Their uses are diverse and they find their applications in the fields of self-adhesive. The groups which can be grafted onto the macromolecule are varied and are involved in the usage properties of the resin.
  • the second family of materials that contributes to long wear is that of film-forming agents. These may be, for example, polybutenes and their derivatives which have an affinity for oils.
  • It can also be acrylates (and their derivatives) or polyvinylpyrrolidones, which have a certain affinity for water. Film-forming agents have an adhesive property on the skin, which allows the texture to stick to the skin.
  • the third family is the touch powder family.
  • This family is composed of acrylates and their derivatives such as for example the methyl methacrylate crosspolymer.
  • the latter come in the form of powders which also contribute to the good hold of the texture on the skin thanks to their high absorption capacity, which makes it possible to absorb excess sebum.
  • these powders give the texture a special so-called "powdery" feel associated with excellent spreading which extends the duration of application and provides a soft touch effect.
  • the invention thus relates to a combination of raw materials comprising an alkane or mixture of C12 to C30 alkanes, preferably C12 to C15, a film-forming agent, and at least one filler whose oil uptake of linen according to standard EN ISO 787-5 is greater than 45 g/100g.
  • the combination of raw materials according to the invention may include:
  • the combination of raw materials according to the invention may consist of:
  • the combination of raw materials according to the invention may consist of:
  • compositions comprising the combination according to the invention (user feedback);
  • C12 to C30 alkane is meant a linear or branched alkane whose total number of carbon atoms can be from 12 to 30, preferably from 12 to 15. It can be a mixture of alkanes.
  • the alkane or mixture of alkanes is of natural origin.
  • the alkane or mixture of alkanes can be chosen from isododecane, a mixture of C13 to C15 alkanes, squalane and their mixtures. It may preferably be a mixture of C13 to C15 alkanes and/or isododecane and even more preferably C13-C15 alkane and/or isododecane.
  • the combination according to the invention may comprise from 30 to 75% of an alkane or mixture of C12 to C30 alkanes, preferably C12 to C15.
  • the combination according to the invention may comprise from 40 to 65% of an alkane or mixture of C12 to C30 alkanes, preferably C12 to C15.
  • film-forming agent means polymers with high molecular weight, generally lipophilic and of natural origin. It may be a dilinoleyl dimer dilinoleate, a polyglyceryl-2 isostearate/dilinoleate dimer or a mixture thereof.
  • the film-forming agent is the polyglyceryl-2 isostearate/dilinoleate dimer copolymer.
  • the combination according to the invention may comprise from 10 to 35% of a film-forming agent.
  • the combination according to the invention may comprise from 15 to 30% of a film-forming agent.
  • Filler means a solid substance, immiscible in the medium and dispersed by mechanical means in a matrix. It can be of mineral or vegetable origin and can be of natural or synthetic origin, preferably natural. According to the invention, the at least one filler has a linseed oil uptake, according to the EN ISO 787-5 standard, greater than 45 g/100g. This can be one filler or a mixture of the fillers listed in Table 1a or 1b below:
  • the at least one charge can be chosen from the charges listed in table 1c below:
  • the at least one filler can be chosen from fillers whose linseed oil uptake, according to standard EN ISO 787-5, is within a range of 45 to 140 g/100g.
  • the at least one filler can be chosen from fillers whose linseed oil uptake, according to standard EN ISO 787-5, is within a range ranging from 45 to 100 g/100g.
  • the at least one filler can be chosen from the fillers listed in table 2a below:
  • the at least one charge can be chosen from the charges listed in table 2b below:
  • the filler can be chosen from bamboo powder, bamboo stem extract, polymethylsilsesquioxane, talc, kaolin, distarch phosphate, kaolin & mica & quartz, mica, powder aurantium dulcis peel, kaolin & illite, silica, cyclodextrin & boron nitride, silica & boron nitride, cellulose, diatomaceous earth and mixtures thereof.
  • the filler can be chosen from polymethylsilsesquioxane, talc, kaolin, distarch phosphate, kaolin & mica & quartz, mica, citrus aurantium dulcis peel powder, kaolin & illite, silica, cyclodextrin and boron nitride, silica & boron nitride, cellulose, diatomaceous earth and mixtures thereof.
  • the filler can be chosen from polymethylsilsesquioxane, talc, kaolin, distarch phosphate, kaolin & mica & quartz, mica, citrus aurantium dulcis peel powder, kaolin & illite, silica, cyclodextrin and boron nitride, silica & boron nitride and mixtures thereof.
  • the at least one filler can be chosen from the fillers listed in Table 3a below:
  • the at least one filler may be selected from the fillers listed in Table 3b below:
  • the combination according to the invention may comprise from 10 to 35% of at least one filler whose linseed oil uptake, according to standard EN ISO 787-5, is greater than 45 g/100g .
  • the combination according to the invention may comprise from 15 to 30% of at least one filler whose linseed oil uptake, according to standard EN ISO 787-5, is greater than 45 g/100g.
  • the invention also relates to a cosmetic composition comprising a combination according to the invention.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the invention can be chosen from a foundation, a sunscreen, a lipstick and an eye shadow.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the invention may comprise from 0 to 50% by mass of water.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the invention can be liquid or solid, preferably solid, at ambient temperature, that is to say at a temperature ranging from 15 to 25°C.
  • solid means a composition whose melting point is greater than 30°C.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the invention may be anhydrous.
  • anhydrous means a composition essentially free of water.
  • the anhydrous composition according to the invention may comprise less than 5% by mass of water, preferably less than 1% and even more preferably less than 0.2%, relative to the total mass of the composition.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the invention may comprise one or more phases (aqueous, oily).
  • the cosmetic composition according to the invention may be in the form of an emulsion (O/W or W/O, for example a cream or a milk), an ointment, a dispersion of powder in the fatty phase (eye shadow, lipstick).
  • the cosmetic composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more cosmetic excipients.
  • cosmetic excipient any cosmetic compound which is not part of the combination according to the invention, nor any cosmetic active ingredients present in the cosmetic composition according to the invention.
  • the cosmetic excipient can be chosen, for example, from a butter, a wax, an oil identical to or different from the alkane or mixture of alkanes present in the combination according to the invention, a pigment, a colorant, a preservative, a antimicrobial agent, antioxidant, sunscreen, emulsifier, thickener, gelling agent, filler, humectant and water.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the invention may comprise from 10 to 80% of the combination of raw materials according to the invention, relative to the total mass of the composition.
  • the cosmetic composition when the cosmetic composition is a lipstick, it may comprise from 15 to 70% of the combination of raw materials according to the invention.
  • the cosmetic composition When the cosmetic composition is a foundation, it may comprise from 15 to 30% of the combination of raw materials according to the invention.
  • the cosmetic composition When the cosmetic composition is a sunscreen, it may comprise from 15 to 25% of the combination of raw materials according to the invention.
  • the bounds are included. For example, for an interval such as "ranging from 1 to 5%", the values 1% and 5% are included in the interval.
  • the cosmetic compositions according to the invention are exclusively or almost exclusively composed of products of natural origin.
  • the term "almost exclusively” means a composition which comprises less than 20% of products of synthetic origin relative to the total mass of the composition, preferably less than 10% and even more preferably 5%, or even less of 1%.
  • the unavoidable compounds such as as perfume, preservatives, certain fillers and essential pigments in make-up products.
  • a composition of the lipstick type can generally comprise less than 20% of products of synthetic origin (ie the pigments).
  • a composition of the lip balm, corrector or foundation type may generally comprise less than 1% of products of synthetic origin.
  • a composition of the gloss type can generally comprise less than 2% of products of synthetic origin.
  • the term "product of natural origin” means a product falling within the definition given by the ISO 16128 standard: the ingredients derived from natural materials are cosmetic ingredients, for a proportion of more than 50% of natural origin, by their molecular mass, according to their renewable carbon content, or according to any other appropriate method, which are obtained by defined chemical and/or biological processes aimed at chemically modifying them. It can be a chemical compound or a chemical substance produced by a living organism, i.e. found in nature.
  • products of natural origin are considered to be products such as butters or oils derived from plants or from the hydrogenation of oils of natural origin, preferably vegetable oils.
  • the cosmetic composition may comprise an oil.
  • the oil may be identical to or different from the alkane or the mixture of alkanes present in the combination according to the invention.
  • oil means oily/fatty compounds, the definition of which is generally well known to those skilled in the art, in the technical field of the invention, which are liquid at temperature ambient.
  • An oil is a water-immiscible liquid, that is to say that when it is introduced at a rate of at least 1% by mass in water at 25°C, it is not at all soluble in water, or soluble to the extent of less than 10% by mass, relative to the mass of oil introduced into the water.
  • An oil can be volatile or non-volatile. “Non-volatile” means an oil whose vapor pressure at ambient temperature (25° C.) and atmospheric pressure is non-zero and less than 10 3 mmHg (0.13 Pa).
  • volatile an oil capable of evaporating on contact with the skin in less than one hour, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure.
  • oils that can be used in the cosmetic compositions of the invention are oils of natural origin, preferably of plant origin, preferably having a melting point below 20°C.
  • the oil can be chosen from the group comprising vegetable oils, preferably chosen from sweet almond, avocado, wheat germ, hazelnut, apricot kernel, castor , sesame, sunflower, rice, copra, macadamia, safflower, jojoba, rapeseed, grapeseed, camellia, argan, cotton, borage, muscat rose, evening primrose, olive, walnut, babassu, plum, coconut, chamomile, calendula, peppermint, hemp, lemon, palm, rosemary, sage, shea, soy , sunflower, flax, squalane (cane sugar oil), triglycerides, esters, vegetable alkanes and mixtures thereof.
  • vegetable oils preferably chosen from sweet almond, avocado, wheat germ, hazelnut, apricot kernel, castor , sesame, sunflower, rice, copra, macadamia, safflower, jojoba, rapeseed, grapeseed, camellia, argan
  • the oil can be a vegetable alkane, preferably the C9-C12 alkane.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the invention may comprise from 0.1 to 80% of at least one oil.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one butter, preferably of plant origin.
  • “Butter” means oily/fatty compounds, the definition of which is generally well known to those skilled in the art, in the technical field of the invention. Butters generally have a melting point in the range of 20°C to 45°C.
  • the butters which can be used in the anhydrous cosmetic compositions of the invention are butters of natural origin, preferably of vegetable origin, preferably having a melting point ranging from 20° C. to 45° C.
  • the butter can be chosen from the group comprising shea butter, cocoa butter, myristyl lactate, kpangnan butter, methylhydrogenated rosinate, dipentaerythrityl tetrahydroxystearate/tetraisostearate, triisostearoyl polyglyceryl-3 dimer dilinoleate, dipentaerythrityl hexahydroxystearate/hexastearate/hexarosinate, hydrogenated coco-glycerides, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydroxystearic/linolenic/oleic polyglycerides and mixtures thereof.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the invention may comprise from 0.1 to 40% of at least one butter.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one wax.
  • the term “wax” means a lipophilic fatty compound, solid at room temperature (15-25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760mmHg) whose change of solid/liquid state is reversible.
  • Waxes generally have a melting point above 30° C. (this can go up to 200° C.), generally a hardness above 0.5 MPa, and have an anisotropic crystalline organization in the solid state. At its melting point, the wax is made miscible with oils and can form a microscopically homogeneous mixture. When the temperature of the mixture is brought back to room temperature, it is possible to obtain a recrystallization of the wax in the oils of the mixture.
  • the waxes used in the cosmetic compositions according to the invention are compounds of natural origin, solid at ambient temperature (that is to say at a temperature ranging from approximately 15 to 25° C.).
  • the combination of waxes according to the invention makes it possible to structure the composition, in particular hot-poured anhydrous solutions and gels in the form of a stick, in a cup or in any type of support (gloss or lip ink type).
  • the waxes used in the compositions according to the invention can be hydrocarbon-based.
  • the waxes used in the compositions according to the invention can be of natural, preferably vegetable origin.
  • the waxes used in the compositions according to the invention can be derived from the hydrogenation of oils of natural origin, preferably vegetable oils.
  • the waxes used in the compositions according to the invention have a melting point greater than or equal to 60° C., at atmospheric pressure.
  • the at least one wax can be chosen from the group comprising triple ester of glycerol and behenic acid, carnauba wax, sunflower wax, candelilla wax, rice wax, sugar cane wax, montan wax, avocado wax, apricot wax, rice wax, hydrogenated castor oil, oil of hydrogenated olive oil, hydrogenated rice oil, behenyl behenate, glycerol behenate, C20 to C40 alcohols, C30 to 50 alcohols, C20 to C40 alkyl stearates and mixtures thereof.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the invention may comprise from 0.1 to 30% of at least one wax.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one additional filler.
  • additional filler means a solid substance, immiscible in the medium and dispersed by mechanical means in a matrix. It can be of mineral or vegetable origin and can be of natural or synthetic origin, preferably of natural origin. It may be identical to or different from the at least one filler whose linseed oil uptake, according to standard EN ISO 787-5, is greater than 45 g/100g. Supplementary filler is different from distarch phosphate.
  • the additional filler can be chosen from the group comprising calcium or zinc carbonate, kaolin (kaolinite or aluminum silicate), talc, bamboo silica, corn starch, diatomaceous earth, arrowroot (arrow grass), zeolite, zinc chloride hydroxide, mannan, tapioca starch, perlite, calcium silicate, montmorillonite, magnesium oxide, celluloses (e.g. celluloses, microcrystalline celluloses or carboxymethyl cellulose), starches (e.g. starch or modified starch such as carboxymethyl starch) and mixtures thereof.
  • the additional filler can also be chosen from a filler or mixture of fillers from Tables 1, 2 or 3, with the exception of distarch phosphate.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the invention may comprise from 0.1 to 15% of at least one additional filler.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one preservative and/or one antimicrobial agent.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one antioxidant.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more additional components conventionally used in cosmetics, such as a UV filter (UV-A and/or UV-B), an emulsifier (for example lecithin ), a gelling agent or any other compound conventionally used in cosmetics, preferably of natural origin.
  • additional components conventionally used in cosmetics, such as a UV filter (UV-A and/or UV-B), an emulsifier (for example lecithin ), a gelling agent or any other compound conventionally used in cosmetics, preferably of natural origin.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one pigment and/or dye.
  • the pigment can be chosen from the group comprising organic, inorganic and/or composite pigments such as, for example, monochrome pigments (white, black or colored), lakes, nacres and/or optical effect pigments. They can be synthetic or natural.
  • pigment means organic, inorganic or composite particles, which may be monochrome, lakes, mother-of-pearl, or pigments with an optical effect, such as reflective pigments and goniochromatic pigments.
  • the mineral (inorganic) pigments can be chosen from metal oxide pigments (such as cerium, chromium, iron, titanium, zinc or zirconium oxides, manganese violet, prussian blue, ultramarine blue, ferric, and mixtures thereof).
  • Organic pigments can be D&C red 6, D&C red 27 aluminum lake, FD&C red 40 aluminum lake, D&C red 21 aluminum lake, D&C red 36, FD&C yellow 5 aluminum lake, FDC Blue 1 aluminum lake, D&C red 7 aluminum lake, D&C red 30.
  • “mother-of-pearl” means colored particles or elements of any shape, iridescent or not, natural or synthetic, which can be produced in their shell or else synthesized. Mother-of-pearl generally has color effects. Mother-of-pearl can be created on different supports including mica, synthetic fluoroflogopithe and bismuth oxychloride, and combined with the pigments listed in the previous paragraph.
  • “dye” means coloring substances that are not pigments or nacres. It may be, for example, a colorant such as those described in Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 of the European Parliament and of the Council.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the invention may comprise from 0.01 to 25% of pigment, preferably from 0.01 to 5% for a balm or a gloss, from 5 to 25% for a concealer and a foundation, from 0.5 to 20% for a lipstick or lip ink.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the invention may comprise from 0.01 to 10% colorant.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one perfume.
  • perfume is understood to mean a perfuming composition whose primary function consists in modifying the odor of a product or imparting an odor to a product.
  • composition according to the invention may comprise from 0.01 to 5%, of at least one perfume, preferably from 0.05 to 5%
  • composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one cosmetic active ingredient.
  • the term “cosmetic active” means a substance or a mixture of substances intended to be brought into contact with the superficial parts of the human body (more particularly the epidermis, the hair and capillary systems, the lips, etc.) or with the teeth and oral mucous membranes, with a view, exclusively or mainly, to cleaning them, perfuming them, to change their appearance, to protect them, to keep them in good condition or to correct body odours.
  • a cosmetic active ingredient is thus generally an ingredient which acts on the skin to provide it with a real benefit.
  • an active ingredient can be nourishing, soothing, moisturizing, mattifying, redensifying.
  • the cosmetic active can be chosen from the group comprising an extract of cornflower, chamomile, chamomile, edulis, cotton, camellia, vanilla extract, mango extract, raspberry extract, blackberry.
  • the cosmetic active can be easily selected by the person skilled in the art according to the desired cosmetic effect (anti-aging, nourishing, soothing, moisturizing, mattifying, redensifying, deodorant)
  • the cosmetic composition according to the invention may comprise from 0.01 to 5% of at least one cosmetic active ingredient.
  • An object of the invention is also a foundation, a sunscreen, a lipstick and an eye shadow comprising the combination of raw materials according to the invention.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the invention may comprise a combination (for example when the composition is a lipstick):
  • At least one wax for example: a triple ester of glycerol and behenic acid
  • % optionally, from 0.01 to 5% of at least one cosmetic active ingredient, the % being mass percentages, given relative to the total mass of the composition. The sum of the percentages equals 100%.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the invention may comprise a combination (for example when the composition is a liquid foundation):
  • % optionally, from 0.01 to 5% of at least one cosmetic active ingredient, the % being mass percentages, given relative to the total mass of the composition.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the invention may comprise a combination (for example when the composition is a sunscreen):
  • % optionally, from 0.01 to 5% of at least one cosmetic active ingredient, the % being mass percentages, given relative to the total mass of the composition.
  • the invention also comprises a use of a combination of raw materials according to the invention in a cosmetic composition, said cosmetic composition being chosen from a foundation, a sunscreen, a lipstick and a shadow. eyelid.
  • the invention also relates to a cosmetic process for the care, hygiene and/or makeup of keratin materials, preferably the lips and/or the skin, comprising at least one step consisting in applying to the lips and/or skin at least one cosmetic composition according to the invention.
  • the invention also comprises the use of a cosmetic composition according to the invention for the care (preferably cosmetic), hygiene and/or make-up of keratin materials, preferably the lips and/or the skin.
  • a cosmetic composition according to the invention for the care (preferably cosmetic), hygiene and/or make-up of keratin materials, preferably the lips and/or the skin.
  • the use according to the invention may be a use of the cosmetic composition according to the invention for making up, protecting, nourishing and/or washing keratin materials, preferably the lips and/or the skin.
  • the invention also encompasses a stick, baton, element/kit for care (preferably cosmetic), hygiene and/or make-up, ointment, ointment, powder, lipstick, foundation, concealer , concealer, gloss, lip inks, body or face care product, make-up remover, cream, lotion, milk, deodorant/anti-perspirant, or anti-aging, comprising a combination of raw materials according to the invention.
  • the invention also relates to an article (for example: tube, jar, bottle, case, tissue paper) comprising a combination of raw materials according to the invention or a cosmetic composition according to the invention.
  • the article can also be the combination according to the invention or the cosmetic composition according to the invention, when the latter can be marketed without packaging.
  • the invention also relates to a process for manufacturing the combination of raw materials according to the invention comprising the steps: a) mixing the alkane or the mixture of alkanes and the film-forming agent, b ) Progressive introduction of the filler into the mixture obtained in step a), with stirring, c) Maintaining the stirring of the mixture obtained in step b), for a period ranging from 1 to 5 minutes, preferably 2 minutes.
  • the invention also relates to a process for manufacturing a cosmetic composition according to the invention comprising bringing the combination of raw materials according to the invention into contact with one or more cosmetic excipients and optionally one or more cosmetic active ingredients, followed by mixing until homogenization.
  • Example 1 cosmetic composition foundation (cosmetic composition 1) [101] This example presents the preparation of a cosmetic foundation composition (cosmetic composition 1) according to the invention comprising a combination according to the invention.
  • Table 4 shows the composition in mass percentages of cosmetic composition 1:
  • Cosmetic composition 1 comprises 15.5-25.5% of a combination of raw materials according to the invention.
  • the association consists of C13-C15 alkane, polyglyceryl-2 isostearate/dimer dilinoleate copolymer and distarch phosphate, 56.8 - 67.7/19.3 - 23.5/12.9 - 19.6 ( %/%/%).
  • Cosmetic composition 1 is prepared by following the following steps, at room temperature (i.e. 15-25°C):
  • Phase B (sprinkle the stearalkonium bentonite into the alkane while mixing using a magnetic stirrer);
  • Phase A grind the pigments in the “Glycerol Triheptanoate” emollient using a three-cylinder machine (3 successive passages);
  • Phase B Introduce Phase B into the Phase A+C mixture + leave to mix at 350 rpm for 5 minutes;
  • Phase D in a fine stream into the Phase A+B+C mixture, increasing the speed gradually at the same time as the introduction up to approximately 800 rpm;
  • Table 5 shows the composition in mass percentages of cosmetic compositions 2a and 2b:
  • Cosmetic composition 2a comprises 68% of a combination of raw materials according to the invention. Here the association consists of C13-C15 alkane, polyglyceryl-2 isostearate/dimer dilinoleate copolymer and distarch phosphate, 59.21/21.06/19.73 (%/%/%).
  • Cosmetic composition 2b comprises 68% of a combination of raw materials according to the invention.
  • the association consists of C13-C15 alkane, polyglyceryl-2 isostearate/dimer dilinoleate copolymer and bambusa arundinacea juice, 59.21/21.06/19.73 (%/%/%).
  • Cosmetic compositions 2a and 2b are prepared by following the following steps, at room temperature (i.e. 15-25°C):
  • phase A in a beaker and heat it on a hot plate to 80°C with gentle stirring;
  • phase A is homogeneous, with medium stirring at GIKA, introduce Phase B into phase A and leave under stirring for 5 min;
  • cosmetic composition 2 has a long hold provided by good adhesion to the lips.
  • Table 6 shows the composition in mass percentages of cosmetic composition 3a and 3b:
  • Cosmetic composition 3a comprises 15.5-25.5% of a combination of raw materials according to the invention.
  • the association consists of C13-C15 alkane, polyglyceryl-2 isostearate/dimer dilinoleate copolymer and bambusa arundinacea juice, 56.8 - 67.7/19.3 - 23.5/12.9 - 19.6 ( %/%/%).
  • Cosmetic composition 3b comprises 15.5-25.5% of a combination of raw materials according to the invention.
  • the association consists of C12-C15 alkane, polyglyceryl-2 isostearate/dimer dilinoleate copolymer and bambusa arundinacea juice, 56.8 - 67.7/19.3 - 23.5/12.9 - 19.6 ( %/%/%).
  • Cosmetic composition 3a is prepared by following the following steps, at room temperature (i.e. 15-25°C):
  • phase a grind the pigments in the “polyglyceryl-3 polyricinoleate + lecithin” emollient using a triple cylinder (3 successive passes);
  • Phase (B+C) Introduce the ground material from Phase A into Phase (B+C) and leave to mix at 350 rpm for 5 minutes

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  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Public Health (AREA)
  • Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
  • Birds (AREA)
  • Epidemiology (AREA)
  • Cosmetics (AREA)
EP22735021.2A 2021-06-11 2022-06-10 Kombination von ausgangsmaterialien und kosmetische zusammensetzung mit dieser kombination Pending EP4351511A1 (de)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
FR2106173A FR3123805A1 (fr) 2021-06-11 2021-06-11 Association de matieres premieres et composition cosmetique comprenant ladite association
PCT/FR2022/051111 WO2022258935A1 (fr) 2021-06-11 2022-06-10 Association de matieres premieres et composition cosmetique comprenant ladite association

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EP4351511A1 true EP4351511A1 (de) 2024-04-17

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EP (1) EP4351511A1 (de)
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WO (1) WO2022258935A1 (de)

Family Cites Families (5)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
BR0303890A (pt) * 2002-09-26 2004-09-08 Oreal Composição de esmalte de unhas, proceso cosmético de maquilagem ou de cuidado não-teraupêutico das unhas, uso de uma composição de esmalte de unhas e produto cosmético
US9192561B2 (en) * 2010-05-14 2015-11-24 L'oreal Compositions containing hyperbranched polyol and acrylic film former
EP2574174B1 (de) * 2010-05-17 2018-02-28 Mary Kay, Inc. Topische hautformulierung
US8586013B2 (en) * 2010-12-30 2013-11-19 L'oreal Comfortable, long-wearing, transfer-resistant colored cosmetic compositions having a non-tacky feel
US9226888B2 (en) * 2011-12-30 2016-01-05 L'oreal Compositions containing an acrylic film former, a tackifier and an ester

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FR3123805A1 (fr) 2022-12-16

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