Classifications

• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A45—HAND OR TRAVELLING ARTICLES
  • A45D—HAIRDRESSING OR SHAVING EQUIPMENT; EQUIPMENT FOR COSMETICS OR COSMETIC TREATMENTS, e.g. FOR MANICURING OR PEDICURING
  • A45D7/00—Processes of waving, straightening or curling hair
  • A45D7/02—Processes of waving, straightening or curling hair thermal
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A45—HAND OR TRAVELLING ARTICLES
  • A45D—HAIRDRESSING OR SHAVING EQUIPMENT; EQUIPMENT FOR COSMETICS OR COSMETIC TREATMENTS, e.g. FOR MANICURING OR PEDICURING
  • A45D7/00—Processes of waving, straightening or curling hair
  • A45D7/06—Processes of waving, straightening or curling hair combined chemical and thermal
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A45—HAND OR TRAVELLING ARTICLES
  • A45D—HAIRDRESSING OR SHAVING EQUIPMENT; EQUIPMENT FOR COSMETICS OR COSMETIC TREATMENTS, e.g. FOR MANICURING OR PEDICURING
  • A45D1/00—Curling-tongs, i.e. tongs for use when hot; Curling-irons, i.e. irons for use when hot; Accessories therefor
  • A45D2001/008—Curling-tongs, i.e. tongs for use when hot; Curling-irons, i.e. irons for use when hot; Accessories therefor with vapor generation, e.g. steam

Definitions

• the present invention relates to a new process for treating hair fibers, in particular hair.
• the aim of the present invention is to develop a new process for the treatment of keratin fibers which makes it possible to obtain an improvement in the cosmetic and visual properties of hair fibers with processes that are easy and quick to implement, and which are persistent. minus a wash.
• the steam application step and the shaping step are not carried out simultaneously on the same portion of hair fibers, these two steps can nevertheless be implemented with the same device. configured to successively implement these two steps.
• two separate devices can be used to implement these separate steps.
• the process of the present invention makes it possible in particular to obtain rapid shaping of the hair fibers while improving their cosmetic properties. Furthermore, the process of the present invention makes it possible to obtain an improvement in the cosmetic properties which is persistent after at least one wash and in the ease of application for the user.
• the hair fibers treated by the process of the invention thus exhibit improved smoothness with a brighter appearance than that obtained with the process of the technique and this even in the absence of additional cosmetic active ingredients.
• hair fibers means keratin fibers such as the hair or synthetic fibers called “extensions” which are intended to be attached to the hair of a person by various means, in particular by gluing. and this in order to modify the appearance of a person's natural hair, for example, by modifying the volume, color or appearance of the hair.
• the application of steam can be carried out before or after the step of shaping the hair fibers.
• the shaping of the hair fibers is carried out after the steam treatment of these hair fibers.
• the quantity of steam is between 1 and 4 g / min.
• the water vapor which is applied to the hair contains one or more cosmetic ingredients and / or active ingredients such as a perfume, a shaping or conditioning active, etc.
• this device is portable, that is to say that the reservoir making it possible to generate the steam is in contact with the part of the device comprising the orifices for distributing the steam.
• the step of shaping the hair fibers can be carried out with any type of means known in the art making it possible to obtain a temperature on the fibers of at least 50 ° C.
• the means for shaping the hair fibers are, for example, devices having a heating surface capable of coming into contact with the hair fibers and of applying to these fibers a tension, even slight, making it possible to smooth, style and disentangle the fibers. capillaries.
• the forming temperature is greater than 90 ° C, preferably between 90 ° C and 230 ° C, in particular between 150 and 200 ° C.
• the shaping step is carried out by means of smoothing pliers.
• smoothing pliers mention may be made of the flat smoothing pliers described in the patents. US5957140 , US5046516 , US7044139 , US5223694 , US5091629 .
• the process of the present invention makes it possible in particular when the application of steam is carried out before shaping, to sufficiently hydrate the fibers to reduce the degradation of the latter during the implementation of the shaping. at a temperature above 50 ° C.
• the shaping step is carried out after the steam treatment.
• the method of the invention further comprises a step of cosmetic treatment of the hair fibers by means of a composition comprising one or more cosmetic active ingredients.
• This cosmetic treatment step can be carried out before or after the application of the steam and / or before or after the shaping of the hair fibers. It should in particular be noted that this cosmetic treatment step is not carried out simultaneously with the application of the steam.
• the method of the invention comprises, in order, the cosmetic treatment step, followed by the application of steam and then by shaping the hair fibers.
• the method of the invention comprises in order the application of steam, followed by the shaping of the hair fibers, then by the cosmetic treatment step.
• the method of the invention comprises in order the application of steam, followed by the step of cosmetic treatment then by the step of shaping the hair fibers.
• the process of the invention can comprise a second stage of post-treatment or pre-treatment of the hair fibers, identical to or different from the first stage of cosmetic treatment.
• the cosmetic treatment step may be a step for caring for the hair fibers, which may or may not be followed by rinsing, a step of washing the fibers, a step of shaping or controlling the shape, for example using by means of a fixing gel, a shaping mousse, a lacquer, a leave-in conditioner in the form of a cream, a permanent, semi-permanent or temporary coloring step, a permanent deformation step with by means of a reducing agent and optionally of a fixing agent, an alkaline straightening step with soda or with guanidine carbonate.
• non-polymeric, non-coloring cationic cosmetic agents containing one or more cationic units and having one or more fatty chains.
• non-coloring is understood to mean not exhibiting in its structure a chromophore exhibiting absorption maximums in the visible range.
• fatty chain is understood to mean any hydrocarbon chain comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms.
• the cationic cosmetic agent (s) defined above can be chosen from primary, secondary, tertiary and quaternary, aliphatic or cyclic amine groups.
• the amine groups are quaternary.
• the cationic cosmetic agent (s) used according to the invention are generally chosen from cationic surfactants.
• salts of primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines optionally polyoxyalkylenated; quaternary ammonium salts with a charge not included in a ring and without an ester function; quaternary imidazoline derivatives; quaternary diammonium salts; quaternary ammonium salts with ester function (s); and / or one of their mixtures.
• the R 15 alkyl radicals can be linear or branched and more particularly linear.
• R 15 denotes a methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl or dihydroxypropyl radical and more particularly a methyl or ethyl radical.
• the sum x + y + z is equal to 1 to 10.
• R 16 is a hydrocarbon radical R 20 , it may be long and have 12 to 22 carbon atoms or short and have 1 to 3 carbon atoms.
• R 18 is an R 22 hydrocarbon radical, it preferably has 1 to 3 carbon atoms.
• x and z which are identical or different, are equal to 0 or 1.
• y is equal to 1.
• n, p and r which are identical or different, are equal to 2 or 3 and even more particularly are equal to 2.
• the anion is preferably a halide. (chloride, bromide or iodide) or an alkylsulphate more particularly methylsulphate.
• halide chloride, bromide or iodide
• alkylsulphate more particularly methylsulphate.
• the anion X- is even more particularly chloride or methylsulphate.
• hydrocarbon radicals are linear.
• tetraalkylammonium chlorides such as, for example, alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides, in which the alkyl radical contains approximately from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular behenyl-trimethylammonium, cetyltrimethylammonium, benzyldimethylstearyl ammonium chlorides or, on the other hand, palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride or stearamido-propyldimethyl (myristyl acetate) ammonium chloride marketed under the name "CERAPHYL 70 "by the company VAN DYK.
• Quaternary ammonium salts of formula (IV) suitable for the invention include in particular dipalmitoylethyl hydroxyethylmmonium methosulfate, sold by the company STEPAN under the reference STEPANQUAT GA 90.
• the preferred cationic molecules which can be used in the composition according to the invention are the compounds of formula (I) or of formula (IV).
• Cetyl trimethyl ammonium chloride will be preferred.
• the cationic molecule (s) can also be chosen from cationic proteins.
• the cationic cosmetic agent (s) advantageously represent from 0.1% to 10% by weight of the total weight of the composition, with the proviso that if the cationic cosmetic agent is a tetraalkylammonium salt containing only one fatty chain, it either present in a content greater than or equal to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
• the cationic cosmetic agent (s) used in the invention whatever their nature, represent from 1 to 10%, better still from 1 to 5%, by weight of the total weight of the composition.
• the cationic cosmetic agent (s) when the cationic cosmetic agent (s) comprises two fatty chains, it does not contain any amide function.
• cosmetic agent useful in the process of the invention of non-coloring cationic polymers, not derived from a sugar or from a silicone, having a cationic charge density greater than 1.5. meq / g.
• the charge density can be determined according to the Kjedahl method. It is generally measured at a pH of the order of 3 to 9.
• the cationic polymers used in the present invention exhibit a cationic charge density of less than 10 meq / g.
• cationic polymer is understood to mean any polymer containing cationic groups and / or groups which can be ionized into cationic groups.
• non-coloring is understood to mean not having in its structure a chromophore exhibiting a maximum absorption in the visible range.
• non-derivative of a sugar or a silicone is understood to mean not comprising in its structure a sugar unit (mono, oligo or polysaccharide) or a unit containing one or more silicon atoms.
• the cationic polymers which can be used in accordance with the present invention can be chosen from all those already known per se as improving the cosmetic properties of hair treated with detergent compositions, namely in particular those described in the patent application.
• the preferred cationic polymers are chosen from those which contain units comprising primary, secondary, tertiary and / or quaternary amine groups which can either form part of the main polymer chain, or be carried by a side substituent directly linked thereto.
• the cationic polymers used have a weight average molecular mass greater than 10 5 , preferably greater than 10 6 and better still between 10 6 and 10 8 .
• the cationic polymers are not polyurethanes.
• cationic polymers which can be used according to the invention, there may be mentioned more particularly polymers of the polyamine, polyaminoamide and polyquaternary ammonium type. These are known products.
• cationic polymers which can be used in the context of the invention are polyalkyleneimines, in particular polyethyleneimines, polymers containing vinylpyridine or vinylpyridinium units, condensates of polyamines and epichlorohydrin, and quaternary polyureylenes.
• the cationic polymers which can be used according to the invention exhibit a permanent cationic charge corresponding to the presence of units comprising quaternary amine groups.
• the cationic polymers of the invention are chosen from dialkyldiallylammonium cyclopolymers and quaternary diammonium polymers of formula (II).
• the cationic polymer (s) advantageously represent from 0.1 to 10%, better still from 0.2 to 8%, by weight of the total weight of the composition.
• the cosmetic treatment step can be implemented from a composition in the form of a lotion, thickened or not, of a cream, of a gel, or of any other suitable form.
• compositions used are generally aqueous compositions which may contain ingredients usually used in cosmetic compositions, such as solvents, surfactants, thickeners, preservatives, perfumes or any other additive used in this type of composition.
• the method of the invention can comprise an additional final shaping step, for example a smoothing step, in particular if the previous step is a cosmetic treatment step.
• Strands of hair are washed and wrung out. Pre-drying of the hair is then carried out until about 80% drying is obtained.
• a permanent oxidation coloring of shade 5.64 (light brown copper red from the Majirouge range) is then applied which consists in applying to the hair fibers one or more oxidation bases and one or more well-known couplers, from the field of coloring. permanent, in the presence of an oxidizing agent (hydrogen peroxide).
• a reducing cream is applied with a brush comprising thioglycolic acid salts. After the exposure time, the locks are rinsed again then wrung out and pre-dried to 80% with a hair dryer.
• fixative is then applied to the entire hair. After an exposure time, the locks are rinsed, drained and dried.
• thermo cement treatment from Kerastase is applied, which is a leave-on care product comprising silicones and cationic surfactants. Pre-drying of the locks is then carried out until about 80% drying is obtained.
• Strands of hair are washed and wrung out. Pre-drying of the hair is then carried out until about 80% drying is obtained.
• steam is applied under the conditions defined in the present invention, this application of steam being followed by the shaping / smoothing step by means of a straightening forceps heated to at least 100 ° vs. This treatment is carried out strand by strand over the entire hair.

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• Physics & Mathematics (AREA)
• Thermal Sciences (AREA)
• Cosmetics (AREA)
• Chemical Or Physical Treatment Of Fibers (AREA)
• Yarns And Mechanical Finishing Of Yarns Or Ropes (AREA)
• Organic Low-Molecular-Weight Compounds And Preparation Thereof (AREA)
• Treatment Of Fiber Materials (AREA)

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• 2009
  • 2009-04-03 FR FR0952200A patent/FR2943895B1/fr not_active Expired - Fee Related
• 2010
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