EP2236053B2 - Method for the steam treatment of hair - Google Patents
Method for the steam treatment of hair Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- EP2236053B2 EP2236053B2 EP10158979.4A EP10158979A EP2236053B2 EP 2236053 B2 EP2236053 B2 EP 2236053B2 EP 10158979 A EP10158979 A EP 10158979A EP 2236053 B2 EP2236053 B2 EP 2236053B2
- Authority
- EP
- European Patent Office
- Prior art keywords
- stage
- steam
- hair
- shaping
- les
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
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- 150000003462 sulfoxides Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 125000004434 sulfur atom Chemical group 0.000 description 1
- 239000004094 surface-active agent Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000008961 swelling Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000012209 synthetic fiber Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229920002994 synthetic fiber Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 229920001897 terpolymer Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 150000003512 tertiary amines Chemical group 0.000 description 1
- 150000005621 tetraalkylammonium salts Chemical group 0.000 description 1
- CWERGRDVMFNCDR-UHFFFAOYSA-N thioglycolic acid Chemical class OC(=O)CS CWERGRDVMFNCDR-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- JOXIMZWYDAKGHI-UHFFFAOYSA-M toluene-4-sulfonate Chemical compound CC1=CC=C(S([O-])(=O)=O)C=C1 JOXIMZWYDAKGHI-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 1
- USFMMZYROHDWPJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N trimethyl-[2-(2-methylprop-2-enoyloxy)ethyl]azanium Chemical compound CC(=C)C(=O)OCC[N+](C)(C)C USFMMZYROHDWPJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 235000013311 vegetables Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 229920001567 vinyl ester resin Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 125000000391 vinyl group Chemical group [H]C([*])=C([H])[H] 0.000 description 1
- 239000011782 vitamin Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229940088594 vitamin Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 229930003231 vitamin Natural products 0.000 description 1
- 235000013343 vitamin Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000001993 wax Substances 0.000 description 1
Classifications
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A45—HAND OR TRAVELLING ARTICLES
- A45D—HAIRDRESSING OR SHAVING EQUIPMENT; EQUIPMENT FOR COSMETICS OR COSMETIC TREATMENTS, e.g. FOR MANICURING OR PEDICURING
- A45D7/00—Processes of waving, straightening or curling hair
- A45D7/02—Processes of waving, straightening or curling hair thermal
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A45—HAND OR TRAVELLING ARTICLES
- A45D—HAIRDRESSING OR SHAVING EQUIPMENT; EQUIPMENT FOR COSMETICS OR COSMETIC TREATMENTS, e.g. FOR MANICURING OR PEDICURING
- A45D7/00—Processes of waving, straightening or curling hair
- A45D7/06—Processes of waving, straightening or curling hair combined chemical and thermal
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A45—HAND OR TRAVELLING ARTICLES
- A45D—HAIRDRESSING OR SHAVING EQUIPMENT; EQUIPMENT FOR COSMETICS OR COSMETIC TREATMENTS, e.g. FOR MANICURING OR PEDICURING
- A45D1/00—Curling-tongs, i.e. tongs for use when hot; Curling-irons, i.e. irons for use when hot; Accessories therefor
- A45D2001/008—Curling-tongs, i.e. tongs for use when hot; Curling-irons, i.e. irons for use when hot; Accessories therefor with vapor generation, e.g. steam
Definitions
- the present invention relates to a new process for treating hair fibers, in particular hair.
- the aim of the present invention is to develop a new process for the treatment of keratin fibers which makes it possible to obtain an improvement in the cosmetic and visual properties of hair fibers with processes that are easy and quick to implement, and which are persistent. minus a wash.
- the steam application step and the shaping step are not carried out simultaneously on the same portion of hair fibers, these two steps can nevertheless be implemented with the same device. configured to successively implement these two steps.
- two separate devices can be used to implement these separate steps.
- the process of the present invention makes it possible in particular to obtain rapid shaping of the hair fibers while improving their cosmetic properties. Furthermore, the process of the present invention makes it possible to obtain an improvement in the cosmetic properties which is persistent after at least one wash and in the ease of application for the user.
- the hair fibers treated by the process of the invention thus exhibit improved smoothness with a brighter appearance than that obtained with the process of the technique and this even in the absence of additional cosmetic active ingredients.
- hair fibers means keratin fibers such as the hair or synthetic fibers called “extensions” which are intended to be attached to the hair of a person by various means, in particular by gluing. and this in order to modify the appearance of a person's natural hair, for example, by modifying the volume, color or appearance of the hair.
- the application of steam can be carried out before or after the step of shaping the hair fibers.
- the shaping of the hair fibers is carried out after the steam treatment of these hair fibers.
- the quantity of steam is between 1 and 4 g / min.
- the water vapor which is applied to the hair contains one or more cosmetic ingredients and / or active ingredients such as a perfume, a shaping or conditioning active, etc.
- this device is portable, that is to say that the reservoir making it possible to generate the steam is in contact with the part of the device comprising the orifices for distributing the steam.
- the step of shaping the hair fibers can be carried out with any type of means known in the art making it possible to obtain a temperature on the fibers of at least 50 ° C.
- the means for shaping the hair fibers are, for example, devices having a heating surface capable of coming into contact with the hair fibers and of applying to these fibers a tension, even slight, making it possible to smooth, style and disentangle the fibers. capillaries.
- the forming temperature is greater than 90 ° C, preferably between 90 ° C and 230 ° C, in particular between 150 and 200 ° C.
- the shaping step is carried out by means of smoothing pliers.
- smoothing pliers mention may be made of the flat smoothing pliers described in the patents. US5957140 , US5046516 , US7044139 , US5223694 , US5091629 .
- the process of the present invention makes it possible in particular when the application of steam is carried out before shaping, to sufficiently hydrate the fibers to reduce the degradation of the latter during the implementation of the shaping. at a temperature above 50 ° C.
- the shaping step is carried out after the steam treatment.
- the method of the invention further comprises a step of cosmetic treatment of the hair fibers by means of a composition comprising one or more cosmetic active ingredients.
- This cosmetic treatment step can be carried out before or after the application of the steam and / or before or after the shaping of the hair fibers. It should in particular be noted that this cosmetic treatment step is not carried out simultaneously with the application of the steam.
- the method of the invention comprises, in order, the cosmetic treatment step, followed by the application of steam and then by shaping the hair fibers.
- the method of the invention comprises in order the application of steam, followed by the shaping of the hair fibers, then by the cosmetic treatment step.
- the method of the invention comprises in order the application of steam, followed by the step of cosmetic treatment then by the step of shaping the hair fibers.
- the process of the invention can comprise a second stage of post-treatment or pre-treatment of the hair fibers, identical to or different from the first stage of cosmetic treatment.
- the cosmetic treatment step may be a step for caring for the hair fibers, which may or may not be followed by rinsing, a step of washing the fibers, a step of shaping or controlling the shape, for example using by means of a fixing gel, a shaping mousse, a lacquer, a leave-in conditioner in the form of a cream, a permanent, semi-permanent or temporary coloring step, a permanent deformation step with by means of a reducing agent and optionally of a fixing agent, an alkaline straightening step with soda or with guanidine carbonate.
- non-polymeric, non-coloring cationic cosmetic agents containing one or more cationic units and having one or more fatty chains.
- non-coloring is understood to mean not exhibiting in its structure a chromophore exhibiting absorption maximums in the visible range.
- fatty chain is understood to mean any hydrocarbon chain comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms.
- the cationic cosmetic agent (s) defined above can be chosen from primary, secondary, tertiary and quaternary, aliphatic or cyclic amine groups.
- the amine groups are quaternary.
- the cationic cosmetic agent (s) used according to the invention are generally chosen from cationic surfactants.
- salts of primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines optionally polyoxyalkylenated; quaternary ammonium salts with a charge not included in a ring and without an ester function; quaternary imidazoline derivatives; quaternary diammonium salts; quaternary ammonium salts with ester function (s); and / or one of their mixtures.
- the R 15 alkyl radicals can be linear or branched and more particularly linear.
- R 15 denotes a methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl or dihydroxypropyl radical and more particularly a methyl or ethyl radical.
- the sum x + y + z is equal to 1 to 10.
- R 16 is a hydrocarbon radical R 20 , it may be long and have 12 to 22 carbon atoms or short and have 1 to 3 carbon atoms.
- R 18 is an R 22 hydrocarbon radical, it preferably has 1 to 3 carbon atoms.
- x and z which are identical or different, are equal to 0 or 1.
- y is equal to 1.
- n, p and r which are identical or different, are equal to 2 or 3 and even more particularly are equal to 2.
- the anion is preferably a halide. (chloride, bromide or iodide) or an alkylsulphate more particularly methylsulphate.
- halide chloride, bromide or iodide
- alkylsulphate more particularly methylsulphate.
- the anion X- is even more particularly chloride or methylsulphate.
- hydrocarbon radicals are linear.
- tetraalkylammonium chlorides such as, for example, alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides, in which the alkyl radical contains approximately from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular behenyl-trimethylammonium, cetyltrimethylammonium, benzyldimethylstearyl ammonium chlorides or, on the other hand, palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride or stearamido-propyldimethyl (myristyl acetate) ammonium chloride marketed under the name "CERAPHYL 70 "by the company VAN DYK.
- Quaternary ammonium salts of formula (IV) suitable for the invention include in particular dipalmitoylethyl hydroxyethylmmonium methosulfate, sold by the company STEPAN under the reference STEPANQUAT GA 90.
- the preferred cationic molecules which can be used in the composition according to the invention are the compounds of formula (I) or of formula (IV).
- Cetyl trimethyl ammonium chloride will be preferred.
- the cationic molecule (s) can also be chosen from cationic proteins.
- the cationic cosmetic agent (s) advantageously represent from 0.1% to 10% by weight of the total weight of the composition, with the proviso that if the cationic cosmetic agent is a tetraalkylammonium salt containing only one fatty chain, it either present in a content greater than or equal to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
- the cationic cosmetic agent (s) used in the invention whatever their nature, represent from 1 to 10%, better still from 1 to 5%, by weight of the total weight of the composition.
- the cationic cosmetic agent (s) when the cationic cosmetic agent (s) comprises two fatty chains, it does not contain any amide function.
- cosmetic agent useful in the process of the invention of non-coloring cationic polymers, not derived from a sugar or from a silicone, having a cationic charge density greater than 1.5. meq / g.
- the charge density can be determined according to the Kjedahl method. It is generally measured at a pH of the order of 3 to 9.
- the cationic polymers used in the present invention exhibit a cationic charge density of less than 10 meq / g.
- cationic polymer is understood to mean any polymer containing cationic groups and / or groups which can be ionized into cationic groups.
- non-coloring is understood to mean not having in its structure a chromophore exhibiting a maximum absorption in the visible range.
- non-derivative of a sugar or a silicone is understood to mean not comprising in its structure a sugar unit (mono, oligo or polysaccharide) or a unit containing one or more silicon atoms.
- the cationic polymers which can be used in accordance with the present invention can be chosen from all those already known per se as improving the cosmetic properties of hair treated with detergent compositions, namely in particular those described in the patent application.
- the preferred cationic polymers are chosen from those which contain units comprising primary, secondary, tertiary and / or quaternary amine groups which can either form part of the main polymer chain, or be carried by a side substituent directly linked thereto.
- the cationic polymers used have a weight average molecular mass greater than 10 5 , preferably greater than 10 6 and better still between 10 6 and 10 8 .
- the cationic polymers are not polyurethanes.
- cationic polymers which can be used according to the invention, there may be mentioned more particularly polymers of the polyamine, polyaminoamide and polyquaternary ammonium type. These are known products.
- cationic polymers which can be used in the context of the invention are polyalkyleneimines, in particular polyethyleneimines, polymers containing vinylpyridine or vinylpyridinium units, condensates of polyamines and epichlorohydrin, and quaternary polyureylenes.
- the cationic polymers which can be used according to the invention exhibit a permanent cationic charge corresponding to the presence of units comprising quaternary amine groups.
- the cationic polymers of the invention are chosen from dialkyldiallylammonium cyclopolymers and quaternary diammonium polymers of formula (II).
- the cationic polymer (s) advantageously represent from 0.1 to 10%, better still from 0.2 to 8%, by weight of the total weight of the composition.
- the cosmetic treatment step can be implemented from a composition in the form of a lotion, thickened or not, of a cream, of a gel, or of any other suitable form.
- compositions used are generally aqueous compositions which may contain ingredients usually used in cosmetic compositions, such as solvents, surfactants, thickeners, preservatives, perfumes or any other additive used in this type of composition.
- the method of the invention can comprise an additional final shaping step, for example a smoothing step, in particular if the previous step is a cosmetic treatment step.
- Strands of hair are washed and wrung out. Pre-drying of the hair is then carried out until about 80% drying is obtained.
- a permanent oxidation coloring of shade 5.64 (light brown copper red from the Majirouge range) is then applied which consists in applying to the hair fibers one or more oxidation bases and one or more well-known couplers, from the field of coloring. permanent, in the presence of an oxidizing agent (hydrogen peroxide).
- a reducing cream is applied with a brush comprising thioglycolic acid salts. After the exposure time, the locks are rinsed again then wrung out and pre-dried to 80% with a hair dryer.
- fixative is then applied to the entire hair. After an exposure time, the locks are rinsed, drained and dried.
- thermo cement treatment from Kerastase is applied, which is a leave-on care product comprising silicones and cationic surfactants. Pre-drying of the locks is then carried out until about 80% drying is obtained.
- Strands of hair are washed and wrung out. Pre-drying of the hair is then carried out until about 80% drying is obtained.
- steam is applied under the conditions defined in the present invention, this application of steam being followed by the shaping / smoothing step by means of a straightening forceps heated to at least 100 ° vs. This treatment is carried out strand by strand over the entire hair.
Landscapes
- Physics & Mathematics (AREA)
- Thermal Sciences (AREA)
- Cosmetics (AREA)
- Organic Low-Molecular-Weight Compounds And Preparation Thereof (AREA)
- Chemical Or Physical Treatment Of Fibers (AREA)
- Yarns And Mechanical Finishing Of Yarns Or Ropes (AREA)
Description
La présente invention concerne un nouveau procédé de traitement des fibres capillaire, en particulier des cheveux.The present invention relates to a new process for treating hair fibers, in particular hair.
Il est connu de lisser les fibres capillaires avec des pinces de lissage. Ces pinces permettent d'obtenir un lissage des fibres kératiniques à température élevée sans tirer sur les cheveux contrairement aux brushings. Cependant, pour obtenir un bon aspect lissé, il est nécessaire d'effectuer plusieurs passages de la pince ce qui allonge notablement le temps de traitement des cheveux. Par ailleurs, l'application répétée des pinces plates de lissage peut engendrer une dégradation des fibres capillaires due à la température d'application de la pince de lissage.It is known to smooth hair fibers with straightening tweezers. These tweezers make it possible to smooth the keratin fibers at high temperature without pulling on the hair, unlike brushings. However, to obtain a good smooth appearance, it is necessary to perform several passes of the clamp, which considerably lengthens the treatment time of the hair. Furthermore, the repeated application of the flat straightening pliers can cause degradation of the hair fibers due to the application temperature of the smoothing pliers.
Il est aussi connu d'utiliser de la vapeur pour le traitement des cheveux, ce traitement à la vapeur pouvant être associé à différents traitements cosmétiques capillaires. En particulier, il est connu dans le domaine de la mise en plis (mise en forme non permanente) un procédé de traitement des cheveux qui comprend l'application de vapeur pendant un temps inférieur à 2 minutes à une température d'au moins 75°C sur des fibres kératiniques maintenues sous tension mécanique et sur lesquelles on a au préalable appliqué une composition cosmétique particulière comprenant par exemple, une huile, une silicone, des colorants d'oxydation, des colorants naturels, des colorants directs et autres. On peut citer à titre d'exemples les documents
Il est d'autre part connu de traiter les cheveux avec des pinces à lisser délivrant de la vapeur d'eau. Cependant, ces pinces ne permettent pas d'obtenir un effet cosmétique satisfaisant car la chaleur dispensée par ces pinces est moins importante que celle dispensée par les pinces de lissage classiques. On peut notamment citer le document
Ces procédés bien qu'améliorant les propriétés cosmétiques et visuelles des fibres capillaires sont longs et souvent difficiles à mettre en oeuvre. L'effet cosmétique obtenu est de plus non rémanent au lavage.These processes, although improving the cosmetic and visual properties of hair fibers, are long and often difficult to implement. The cosmetic effect obtained is also non-persistent on washing.
Ainsi le but de la présente invention est de développer un nouveau procédé de traitement des fibres kératiniques qui permet d'obtenir une amélioration des propriétés cosmétiques et visuelles des fibres capillaires avec des procédés faciles et rapides à mettre en oeuvre, et qui sont rémanents à au moins un lavage.Thus, the aim of the present invention is to develop a new process for the treatment of keratin fibers which makes it possible to obtain an improvement in the cosmetic and visual properties of hair fibers with processes that are easy and quick to implement, and which are persistent. minus a wash.
Ce but est atteint par la présente invention qui a pour objet un procédé de traitement des fibres capillaires selon la revendication 1.This aim is achieved by the present invention, which relates to a process for treating hair fibers according to claim 1.
Pour une mèche de fibres capillaires traitée, l'étape d'application de vapeur et l'étape dé mise en forme ne se font pas simultanément sur une même portion de fibres capillaires, ces deux étapes pouvant néanmoins être misses en oeuvre avec un même appareil configuré pour mettre en oeuvre successivement ces deux étapes. Alternativement, deux appareils distincts peuvent être utilisés pour mettre en oeuvre ces étapes dissociées.For a treated lock of hair fibers, the steam application step and the shaping step are not carried out simultaneously on the same portion of hair fibers, these two steps can nevertheless be implemented with the same device. configured to successively implement these two steps. Alternatively, two separate devices can be used to implement these separate steps.
Le procédé de la présente invention permet en particulier d'obtenir une mise en forme rapide des fibres capillaires tout en améliorant leurs propriétés cosmétiques. Par ailleurs, le procédé de la présente invention permet d'obtenir une amélioration des propriétés cosmétiques rémanente à au moins un lavage et du confort d'application pour l'utilisateur.The process of the present invention makes it possible in particular to obtain rapid shaping of the hair fibers while improving their cosmetic properties. Furthermore, the process of the present invention makes it possible to obtain an improvement in the cosmetic properties which is persistent after at least one wash and in the ease of application for the user.
Les fibres capillaires traitées par le procédé de l'invention présentent ainsi un lissage amélioré avec un aspect plus brillant que celui obtenu avec le procédés de la technique et ceci même en l'absence d'actifs cosmétiques additionnels.The hair fibers treated by the process of the invention thus exhibit improved smoothness with a brighter appearance than that obtained with the process of the technique and this even in the absence of additional cosmetic active ingredients.
Dans la cadre de la présente invention, on entend par « fibres capillaires », des fibres kératiniques telles que les cheveux ou des fibres synthétiques appelées « extensions » qui sont destinées à être rapportées sur la chevelure d'une personne par différents moyens notamment par collage et ceci afin de modifier l'aspect de la chevelure naturelle d'une personne par exemple, en modifiant le volume, la couleur ou l'aspect de la chevelure.In the context of the present invention, the term “hair fibers” means keratin fibers such as the hair or synthetic fibers called “extensions” which are intended to be attached to the hair of a person by various means, in particular by gluing. and this in order to modify the appearance of a person's natural hair, for example, by modifying the volume, color or appearance of the hair.
L'application de la vapeur peut être mise en oeuvre avant ou après l'étape de mise en forme des fibres capillaires. Selon un mode de réalisation particulier, la mise en forme des fibres capillaires est effectuée après le traitement à la vapeur de ces fibres capillaires.The application of steam can be carried out before or after the step of shaping the hair fibers. According to a particular embodiment, the shaping of the hair fibers is carried out after the steam treatment of these hair fibers.
Il est possible d'obtenir un très bon résultat cosmétique après une seule application de vapeur.It is possible to obtain a very good cosmetic result after a single application of steam.
Selon un mode de réalisation particulier de l'invention, la quantité de vapeur est comprise entre 1 et 4 g/min.According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the quantity of steam is between 1 and 4 g / min.
Selon on mode de réalisation, particulier, la vapeur d'eau qui est appliquée sur les cheveux contient un ou plusieurs ingrédients et/ou actifs cosmétiques tels qu'un parfum, un actif de mise en forme ou de conditionnement, etc.According to one particular embodiment, the water vapor which is applied to the hair contains one or more cosmetic ingredients and / or active ingredients such as a perfume, a shaping or conditioning active, etc.
L'application de la vapeur peut être mise en oeuvre à l'aide de tout appareil connu en soi pour générer la quantité de vapeur utile dans le procédé de l'invention. Selon un mode de réalisation particulier, cet appareil est portable, c'est à dire que le réservoir permettant de générer la vapeur est en contact avec la partie du dispositif comprenant les orifices de distribution de la vapeurThe application of the steam can be carried out using any apparatus known per se to generate the quantity of steam useful in the process of the invention. According to a particular embodiment, this device is portable, that is to say that the reservoir making it possible to generate the steam is in contact with the part of the device comprising the orifices for distributing the steam.
L'étape de mise en forme des fibres capillaires peut être mise en oeuvre avec tout type de moyens connus de la technique permettant d'obtenir une température sur les fibres d'au moins 50°C. Les moyens de mise en forme des fibres capillaires sont par exemple des dispositifs présentant une surface chauffante apte à venir en contact avec les fibres capillaires et à appliquer sur ces fibres une tension, même légère, permettant de lisser, coiffer, démêler les fibres capillaires.The step of shaping the hair fibers can be carried out with any type of means known in the art making it possible to obtain a temperature on the fibers of at least 50 ° C. The means for shaping the hair fibers are, for example, devices having a heating surface capable of coming into contact with the hair fibers and of applying to these fibers a tension, even slight, making it possible to smooth, style and disentangle the fibers. capillaries.
Selon un mode de réalisation particulier du procédé de l'invention, la température de mise en forme est supérieure à 90°C, de préférence entre 90°C et 230°C, notamment entre 150 et 200°C.According to a particular embodiment of the process of the invention, the forming temperature is greater than 90 ° C, preferably between 90 ° C and 230 ° C, in particular between 150 and 200 ° C.
Selon une variante, l'étape de mise en forme est mise en oeuvre aux moyens de pinces de lissage. Notamment, on peut citer les pinces plates de lissage décrites dans les brevets
Bien que la mise en forme, notamment le lissage des fibres capillaires, puisse être mise en oeuvre plusieurs fois, on obtient des résultats déjà très satisfaisants avec un seul passage de la pince de lissage.Although the shaping, in particular the smoothing of the hair fibers, can be carried out several times, already very satisfactory results are obtained with a single pass of the smoothing tongs.
Le procédé de la présente invention permet notamment lorsque l'application de la vapeur est mise en oeuvre avant la mise en forme, d'hydrater suffisamment les fibres pour réduire la dégradation de celles-ci lors de la mise en oeuvre de la mise en forme à une température supérieure à 50°C.The process of the present invention makes it possible in particular when the application of steam is carried out before shaping, to sufficiently hydrate the fibers to reduce the degradation of the latter during the implementation of the shaping. at a temperature above 50 ° C.
Lorsque l'application de la vapeur a lieu après la mise en forme, la vapeur vient réhydrater les fibres réduisant de la même façon la dégradation de fibres capillaires.When the application of steam takes place after shaping, the steam rehydrates the fibers similarly reducing the degradation of hair fibers.
De façon préférée, l'étape de mise en forme est mise en oeuvre après le traitement à la vapeur.Preferably, the shaping step is carried out after the steam treatment.
Selon un mode de réalisation particulier, le procédé de l'invention comprend de plus une étape de traitement cosmétique des fibres capillaires au moyen d'une composition comprenant un ou plusieurs actifs cosmétiques.According to a particular embodiment, the method of the invention further comprises a step of cosmetic treatment of the hair fibers by means of a composition comprising one or more cosmetic active ingredients.
Cette étape de traitement cosmétique peut être mise en oeuvre avant ou après l'application de la vapeur et/ou avant ou après la mise en forme des fibres capillaires. Il faut en particulier noter que cette étape de traitement cosmétique n'est pas mise en oeuvre simultanément à l'application de la vapeur.This cosmetic treatment step can be carried out before or after the application of the steam and / or before or after the shaping of the hair fibers. It should in particular be noted that this cosmetic treatment step is not carried out simultaneously with the application of the steam.
Selon une première variante, le procédé de l'invention comprend dans l'ordre l'étape de traitement cosmétique, suivi de l'application de la vapeur puis de la mise en forme des fibres capillaires.According to a first variant, the method of the invention comprises, in order, the cosmetic treatment step, followed by the application of steam and then by shaping the hair fibers.
Selon une seconde variante, le procédé de l'invention comprend dans l'ordre l'application de la vapeur, suivi de la mise en forme des fibres capillaires, puis de l'étape de traitement cosmétique.According to a second variant, the method of the invention comprises in order the application of steam, followed by the shaping of the hair fibers, then by the cosmetic treatment step.
Selon une troisième variante, le procédé de l'invention comprend dans l'ordre l'application de la vapeur, suivi de l'étape de traitement cosmétique puis de l'étape de la mise en forme des fibres capillaires.According to a third variant, the method of the invention comprises in order the application of steam, followed by the step of cosmetic treatment then by the step of shaping the hair fibers.
Selon ces deux variantes, le procédé de l'invention peut comprendre une seconde étape de traitement en post ou prétraitement des fibres capillaires, identique ou différente de la première étape de traitement cosmétique.According to these two variants, the process of the invention can comprise a second stage of post-treatment or pre-treatment of the hair fibers, identical to or different from the first stage of cosmetic treatment.
L'étape de traitement cosmétique peut être une étape de soin des fibres capillaires, qui peut être suivie ou non d'un rinçage, une étape de lavage des fibres, une étape de mise en forme ou de la maitrise de la forme par exemple au moyen d'un gel fixant, d'une mousse de mise en forme, d'une laque, d'un après shampooing non rincé sous forme de crème, une étape de coloration permanente, semi permanente ou temporaire, une étape de déformation permanente au moyen d'un agent réducteur et éventuellement d'un agent fixateur, une étape de défrisage alcalin à la soude ou avec du carbonate de guanidine.The cosmetic treatment step may be a step for caring for the hair fibers, which may or may not be followed by rinsing, a step of washing the fibers, a step of shaping or controlling the shape, for example using by means of a fixing gel, a shaping mousse, a lacquer, a leave-in conditioner in the form of a cream, a permanent, semi-permanent or temporary coloring step, a permanent deformation step with by means of a reducing agent and optionally of a fixing agent, an alkaline straightening step with soda or with guanidine carbonate.
A titre d'agents cosmétiques actifs, on peut citer les précurseurs de coloration, les colorants directs, les polymères siliconés ou non, fixants ou non, les huiles minérales, végétales ou de synthèse, les cires, les agents réducteurs, les oxydants, les filtres UV, les agents conditionneurs, les agents anti-radicaux libres, les agents sequestrants ou stabilisants, les antioxidants, les conservateurs, les acidifiants, les agents alcalins, les parfums, les silicones volatiles ou non, les polymères réactifs ou inertes chimiquement, les pigments, les particules solides organiques ou minérales, les épaississants, les vitamines, les extraits végétaux, les agents pro-pénétrants ou de gonflement de la fibre.Mention may be made, as active cosmetic agents, of coloring precursors, direct dyes, silicone polymers or not, fixing or not, mineral, vegetable or synthetic oils, waxes, reducing agents, oxidants, UV filters, conditioning agents, anti-free radical agents, sequestering or stabilizing agents, antioxidants, preservatives, acidifiers, alkaline agents, perfumes, volatile or non-volatile silicones, reactive or chemically inert polymers, pigments, solid organic or mineral particles, thickeners, vitamins, plant extracts, pro-penetrating or fiber swelling agents.
A titre d'exemple, on peut citer en particulier les agents cosmétiques cationiques non polymériques, non colorantes, contenant un ou plusieurs motifs cationiques et présentant une ou plusieurs chaînes grasses.By way of example, mention may in particular be made of non-polymeric, non-coloring cationic cosmetic agents containing one or more cationic units and having one or more fatty chains.
Par non colorant, on entend ne présentant pas dans sa structure de chromophore présentant des maximum d'absorption dans le visible.The term “non-coloring” is understood to mean not exhibiting in its structure a chromophore exhibiting absorption maximums in the visible range.
Par chaîne grasse, on entend au sens de la présente invention, toute chaîne hydrocarbonée comprenant au moins 8 atomes de carbone, de préférence de 8 à 30 atomes de carbone.For the purposes of the present invention, the term “fatty chain” is understood to mean any hydrocarbon chain comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms.
Le ou les agents cosmétiques cationiques définis ci-dessus peuvent être choisis parmi les groupements amines primaires, secondaires, tertiaires et quaternaires, aliphatiques ou cycliques. De préférence, les groupements amines sont quaternaires.The cationic cosmetic agent (s) defined above can be chosen from primary, secondary, tertiary and quaternary, aliphatic or cyclic amine groups. Preferably, the amine groups are quaternary.
Ainsi, le ou les agents cosmétiques cationiques utilisés selon l'invention sont généralement choisies parmi les tensioactifs cationiques.Thus, the cationic cosmetic agent (s) used according to the invention are generally chosen from cationic surfactants.
A titre d'exemple, on peut citer les sels d'amines grasses primaires, secondaires ou tertiaires, éventuellement polyoxyalkylénées ; les sels d'ammonium quaternaire avec charge non incluse dans un cycle et sans fonction ester ; les dérivés quaternaires d'imidazoline ; les sels de diammonium quaternaire ; les sels d'ammonium quaternaire à fonction(s) ester ; et/ou l'un de leurs mélanges.By way of example, mention may be made of the salts of primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines, optionally polyoxyalkylenated; quaternary ammonium salts with a charge not included in a ring and without an ester function; quaternary imidazoline derivatives; quaternary diammonium salts; quaternary ammonium salts with ester function (s); and / or one of their mixtures.
Les sels d'ammonium quaternaires avec charge non incluse dans un cycle et sans fonction ester sont par exemple :
- ceux qui présentent la formule générale (I) suivante :
- les sels d'ammonium quaternaire de l'imidazoline, comme par exemple celui de formule (II) suivante :
- les sels de diammonium quaternaire de formule (III) :
- les sels d'ammonium quaternaire contenant au moins une fonction ester, par exemple ceux de formule (IV) suivante :
- R15 est choisi parmi les radicaux alkyles en C1-C6 et les radicaux hydroxyalkyles ou dihydroxyalkyles en C1-C6 ;
- R16 est choisi parmi :
- le radical
- les radicaux R20 hydrocarbonés en C1-C22 linéaires ou ramifiés, saturés ou insaturés,
- l'atome d'hydrogène,
- R18 est choisi parmi :
- le radical
- les radicaux R22 hydrocarbonés en C1-C6 linéaires ou ramifiés, saturés ou insaturés,
- l'atome d'hydrogène,
- R17, R19 et R21, identiques ou différents, sont choisis parmi les radicaux hydrocarbonés en C7-C21, linéaires ou ramifiés, saturés ou insaturés;
- n, p et r, identiques ou différents, sont des entiers valant de 2 à 6 ;
- y est un entier valant de 1 à 10 ;
- x et z, identiques ou différents, sont des entiers valant de 0 à 10 ;
- X- est un anion simple ou complexe, organique ou inorganique.
- those which have the following general formula (I):
- quaternary ammonium salts of imidazoline, such as, for example, that of the following formula (II):
- quaternary diammonium salts of formula (III):
- quaternary ammonium salts containing at least one ester function, for example those of the following formula (IV):
- R 15 is selected from alkyl C 1 -C 6 hydroxyalkyl or dihydroxyalkyl radicals C 1 -C 6 alkyl;
- R 16 is chosen from:
- The radical
- linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 1 -C 22 hydrocarbon radicals R 20,
- the hydrogen atom,
- R 18 is chosen from:
- The radical
- linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 1 -C 6 hydrocarbon-based radicals R 22,
- the hydrogen atom,
- R 17 , R 19 and R 21 , identical or different, are chosen from C 7 -C 21 hydrocarbon radicals, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated;
- n, p and r, identical or different, are integers having a value from 2 to 6;
- y is an integer from 1 to 10;
- x and z, identical or different, are integers having a value from 0 to 10;
- X- is a simple or complex, organic or inorganic anion.
Les radicaux alkyles R15 peuvent être linéaires ou ramifiés et plus particulièrement linéaires.The R 15 alkyl radicals can be linear or branched and more particularly linear.
De préférence R15 désigne un radical méthyle, éthyle, hydroxyéthylé ou dihydroxypropyle et plus particulièrement un radical méthyle ou éthyle.Preferably, R 15 denotes a methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl or dihydroxypropyl radical and more particularly a methyl or ethyl radical.
Avantageusement, la somme x + y + z vaut de 1 à 10.Advantageously, the sum x + y + z is equal to 1 to 10.
Lorsque R16, est un radical R20 hydrocarboné, il peut être long et avoir de 12 à 22 atomes de carbone ou court et avoir de 1 à 3 atomes de carbone.When R 16 , is a hydrocarbon radical R 20 , it may be long and have 12 to 22 carbon atoms or short and have 1 to 3 carbon atoms.
Lorsque R18 est un radical R22 hydrocarboné, il a de préférence 1 à 3 atomes de carbone.When R 18 is an R 22 hydrocarbon radical, it preferably has 1 to 3 carbon atoms.
De préférence, x et z, identiques ou différents, valent 0 ou 1.Preferably, x and z, which are identical or different, are equal to 0 or 1.
Avantageusement, y est égal à 1.Advantageously, y is equal to 1.
De préférence, n, p et r, identiques ou différents, valent 2 ou 3 et encore plus particulièrement sont égaux à 2.Preferably, n, p and r, which are identical or different, are equal to 2 or 3 and even more particularly are equal to 2.
L'anion est de préférence un halogénure. (chlorure, bromure ou iodure) ou un alkylsulfate plus particulièrement méthylsulfate. On peut cependant utiliser le méthanesulfonate, le phosphate, le nitrate, le tosylate, un anion dérivé d'acide organique tel que l'acétate ou le lactate ou tout autre anion compatible avec l'ammonium à fonction ester.The anion is preferably a halide. (chloride, bromide or iodide) or an alkylsulphate more particularly methylsulphate. However, it is possible to use methanesulfonate, phosphate, nitrate, tosylate, an anion derived from organic acid such as acetate or lactate or any other anion compatible with the ammonium containing an ester function.
L'anion X- est encore plus particulièrement le chlorure ou le méthylsulfate.The anion X- is even more particularly chloride or methylsulphate.
Avantageusement, les radicaux hydrocarbonés sont linéaires.Advantageously, the hydrocarbon radicals are linear.
Parmi les sels d'ammonium quaternaire de formule (I) on préfère, d'une part, les chlorures de tétraalkylammonium comme par exemple les chlorures d'alkyltriméthylammonium, dans lesquels le radical alkyl comporte environ de 12 à 22 atomes de carbone, en particulier les chlorures de béhényl-triméthylammonium, de cétyltriméthylammonium, de benzyldiméthylstéaryl ammonium ou encore, d'autre part, le chlorure de palmitylamidopropyltriméthylammonium ou le chlorure de stéaramido-propyldiméthyl (myristyl acétate) ammonium commercialisé sous la dénomination "CERAPHYL 70" par la société VAN DYK.Among the quaternary ammonium salts of formula (I), preference is given, on the one hand, to tetraalkylammonium chlorides such as, for example, alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides, in which the alkyl radical contains approximately from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular behenyl-trimethylammonium, cetyltrimethylammonium, benzyldimethylstearyl ammonium chlorides or, on the other hand, palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride or stearamido-propyldimethyl (myristyl acetate) ammonium chloride marketed under the name "CERAPHYL 70 "by the company VAN DYK.
On peut aussi utiliser les sels d'ammonium contenant au moins une fonction ester décrits dans le brevet
Des sels d'ammonium quaternaire de formule (IV) convenant à l'invention comprennent notamment le dipalmitoyléthyl hydroxyéthylmmonium méthosulfate, commercialisé par la société STEPAN sous la référence STEPANQUAT GA 90.Quaternary ammonium salts of formula (IV) suitable for the invention include in particular dipalmitoylethyl hydroxyethylmmonium methosulfate, sold by the company STEPAN under the reference STEPANQUAT GA 90.
Les molécules cationiques préférées utilisables dans la composition selon l'invention sont les composés de formule (I) ou de formule (IV).The preferred cationic molecules which can be used in the composition according to the invention are the compounds of formula (I) or of formula (IV).
On préférera le chlorure de cétyl triméthyl ammonium.Cetyl trimethyl ammonium chloride will be preferred.
Comme expliqué précédemment, la ou les molécules cationiques peuvent également être choisies parmi les protéines cationiques.As explained previously, the cationic molecule (s) can also be chosen from cationic proteins.
La ou les agents cosmétiques cationiques représentent avantageusement de 0,1% à 10% en poids du poids total de la composition, sous réserve que si l'agent cosmétique cationique est un sel de tétraalkylammonium ne contenant qu'une seule chaîne grasse, il soit présent à une teneur supérieure ou égale à 1 % en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition. De préférence, la ou les agents cosmétiques cationiques utilisés dans l'invention, quelle que soit leur nature, représentent de 1 à 10%, mieux de 1 à 5%, en poids du poids total de la composition.The cationic cosmetic agent (s) advantageously represent from 0.1% to 10% by weight of the total weight of the composition, with the proviso that if the cationic cosmetic agent is a tetraalkylammonium salt containing only one fatty chain, it either present in a content greater than or equal to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the cationic cosmetic agent (s) used in the invention, whatever their nature, represent from 1 to 10%, better still from 1 to 5%, by weight of the total weight of the composition.
Selon un mode de réalisation particulier, lorsque le ou les agents cosmétiques cationiques comporte deux chaînes grasse, elle ne comporte aucune fonction amide.According to a particular embodiment, when the cationic cosmetic agent (s) comprises two fatty chains, it does not contain any amide function.
A titre d'exemple, on peut citer comme agent cosmétique utile dans le procédé de l'invention, les polymères cationiques non colorants, non dérivés d'un sucre ou d'une silicone, présentant une densité de charge cationique supérieure à 1,5 meq/g.By way of example, mention may be made, as cosmetic agent useful in the process of the invention, of non-coloring cationic polymers, not derived from a sugar or from a silicone, having a cationic charge density greater than 1.5. meq / g.
La densité de charge peut être déterminée selon la méthode Kjedahl. Elle est mesurée en général à un pH de l'ordre de 3 à 9.The charge density can be determined according to the Kjedahl method. It is generally measured at a pH of the order of 3 to 9.
De préférence, les polymères cationiques utilisés dans la présente invention présentent une densité de charge cationique inférieure à 10 meq/g.Preferably, the cationic polymers used in the present invention exhibit a cationic charge density of less than 10 meq / g.
Par "polymère cationique", on entend tout polymère contenant des groupements cationiques et/ou des groupements ionisables en groupements cationiques.The term “cationic polymer” is understood to mean any polymer containing cationic groups and / or groups which can be ionized into cationic groups.
Par non colorant, on entend ne présentant pas dans sa structure de chromophore présentant un maximum d'absorption dans le visible.The term “non-coloring” is understood to mean not having in its structure a chromophore exhibiting a maximum absorption in the visible range.
Par non dérivé d'un sucre ou d'une silicone, on entend ne comprenant pas dans sa structure de motif sucre (mono, oligo ou polysaccharide) ou de motif contenant un ou plusieurs atomes de silicium.The term “non-derivative of a sugar or a silicone” is understood to mean not comprising in its structure a sugar unit (mono, oligo or polysaccharide) or a unit containing one or more silicon atoms.
Les polymères cationiques utilisables conformément à la présente invention peuvent être choisis parmi tous ceux déjà connus en soi comme améliorant les propriétés cosmétiques des cheveux traités par des compositions détergentes, à savoir notamment ceux décrits dans la demande de brevet
Les polymères cationiques préférés sont choisis parmi ceux qui contiennent des motifs comportant des groupements amine primaires, secondaires, tertiaires et/ou quaternaires pouvant soit faire partie de la chaîne principale polymère, soit être portés par un substituant latéral directement relié à celle-ci.The preferred cationic polymers are chosen from those which contain units comprising primary, secondary, tertiary and / or quaternary amine groups which can either form part of the main polymer chain, or be carried by a side substituent directly linked thereto.
Les polymères cationiques utilisés ont une masse moléculaire moyenne en poids supérieure à 105, de préférence supérieure à 106 et mieux encore comprise entre 106 et 108.The cationic polymers used have a weight average molecular mass greater than 10 5 , preferably greater than 10 6 and better still between 10 6 and 10 8 .
De préférence, les polymères cationiques ne sont pas des polyuréthanes.Preferably, the cationic polymers are not polyurethanes.
Parmi les polymères cationiques utilisables selon l'invention, on peut citer plus particulièrement les polymères du type polyamine, polyaminoamide et polyammonium quaternaire. Ce sont des produits connus.Among the cationic polymers which can be used according to the invention, there may be mentioned more particularly polymers of the polyamine, polyaminoamide and polyquaternary ammonium type. These are known products.
Les polymères du type polyamine, polyaminoamide, polyammonium quaternaire, que l'on peut utiliser dans la composition de la présente invention, sont ceux décrits dans les brevets français nos
- (1) les homopolymères ou copolymères dérivés d'esters ou d'amides acryliques ou méthacryliques et comportant au moins un des motifs de formules suivantes:
- R1 et R2, identiques ou différents, représentent un atome d'hydrogène ou un groupe alkyle ayant de 1 à 6 atomes de carbone, et de préférence un groupe méthyle ou éthyle ;
- R3, identiques ou différents, désignent un atome d'hydrogène ou un groupe CH3 ;
- les symboles A, identiques ou différents, représentent un groupe alkyle, linéaire ou ramifié, comportant de 1 à 6 atomes de carbone, de préférence 2 ou 3 atomes de carbone, ou un groupe hydroxyalkyle comportant de 1 à 4 atomes de carbone ;
- R4, R5, R6, identiques ou différents, représentent un groupe alkyle ayant de 1 à 18 atomes de carbone ou un groupe benzyle, et de préférence un groupe alkyle ayant de 1 à 6 atomes de carbone ;
- X désigne un anion dérivé d'un acide minéral ou organique tel qu'un anion méthosulfate ou un halogénure comme le chlorure ou le bromure.
Les copolymères de la famille (1) peuvent contenir en outre un ou plusieurs motifs dérivant de comonomères pouvant être choisis dans la famille des acrylamides, méthacrylamides, diacétone-acrylamides, acrylamides et méthacrylamides substitués sur l'atome d'azote par des groupes alkyle inférieur (C1-C4), des groupes dérivés des acides acryliques ou méthacryliques ou de leurs esters, de vinyllactames tels que la vinylpyrrolidone ou le vinylcaprolactame, d'esters vinyliques.
Ainsi, parmi ces copolymères de la famille (1), on peut citer :- les copolymères d'acrylamide et de méthacrylate de diméthylaminoéthyle quaternisé au sulfate de diméthyle ou avec un halogénure de diméthyle,
- les copolymères d'acrylamide et de chlorure de méthacryloyloxyéthyltriméthyl-ammonium décrits, par exemple, dans la demande de brevet
EP-A-080976 - les copolymères d'acrylamide et de méthosulfate de méthacryloyloxyéthyl-triméthylammonium,
- les copolymères vinylpyrrolidone/acrylate ou méthacrylate de dialkylaminoalkyle quaternisés ou non. Ces polymères sont décrits en détail dans les brevets français
2077143 2393573 - les terpolymères méthacrylate de diméthylaminoéthyle/ vinylcaprolactame/vinylpyrrolidone,
- les copolymères vinylpyrrolidone/méthacrylamidopropyl-di-méthylamine,
- les copolymères vinylpyrrolidone/méthacrylamide de diméthylaminopropyle quaternisé, et
- les polymères réticulés de sels de méthacryloyloxyalkyl(C1-C4) trialkyl(C1-C4)ammonium tels que les polymères obtenus par homopolymérisation du diméthylaminoéthylméthacrylate quaternisé par le chlorure de méthyle, ou par copolymérisation de l'acrylamide avec le diméthylaminoéthylméthacrylate quaternisé par le chlorure de méthyle, l'homo ou la copolymérisation étant suivie d'une réticulation par un composé à insaturation oléfinique, en particulier le méthylène bis acrylamide. On peut plus particulièrement utiliser un copolymère réticulé acrylamide/chlorure de méthacryloyloxyéthyl triméthylammonium (20/80 en poids) sous forme de dispersion contenant 50% en poids dudit copolymère dans de l'huile minérale. Cette dispersion est commercialisée sous le nom de « SALCARE® SC 92 » par la Société CIBA. On peut également utiliser un homopolymère réticulé du chlorure de méthacryloyloxyéthyl triméthylammonium contenant environ 50 % en poids de l'homopolymère dans de l'huile minérale ou dans un ester liquide. Ces dispersions sont commercialisées sous les noms de « SALCARE® SC 95 » et « SALCARE® SC 96 » par la Société CIBA.
- (2) Les polymères constitués de motifs pipérazinyle et de groupes divalents alkylène ou hydroxyalkylène à chaînes droites ou ramifiées, éventuellement interrompues par des atomes d'oxygène, de soufre, d'azote ou par des cycles aromatiques ou hétérocycliques, ainsi que les produits d'oxydation et/ou de quaternisation de ces polymères. De tels polymères sont notamment décrits dans les brevets français
2 162 025 2 280 361 - (3) Les polyaminoamides solubles dans l'eau, préparés en particulier par polycondensation d'un composé acide avec une polyamine ; ces polyaminoamides peuvent être réticulés par une épihalohydrine, un diépoxyde, un dianhydride, un dianhydride non saturé, un dérivé bis-insaturé, une bis-halohydrine, un bis-azétidinium, une bis-haloacyldiamine, un bis-halogénure d'alkyle ou encore par un oligomère résultant de la réaction d'un composé bifonctionnel réactif vis-à-vis d'une bis-halohydrine, d'un bis-azétidinium, d'une bis-haloacyldiamine, d'un bis-halogénure d'alkyle, d'une épilhalohydrine, d'un diépoxyde ou d'un dérivé bis-insaturé ; l'agent réticulant étant utilisé dans des proportions allant de 0,025 à 0,35 mole par groupement amine du polyaminoamide ; ces polyaminoamides peuvent être alkylés ou s'ils comportent une ou plusieurs fonctions amines tertiaires, quaternisées. De tels polymères sont notamment décrits dans les brevets français
2252840 2368508 - (4) Les dérivés de polyaminoamides résultant de la condensation de polyalkylènes-polyamines avec des acides polycarboxyliques, suivie d'une alkylation par des agents bifonctionnels. On peut citer, par exemple, les polymères acide adipique/dialkylaminohydroxyalkyl-dialkylènetriamine dans lesquels le groupe alkyle comporte de 1 à 4 atomes de carbone et désigne de préférence un groupe méthyle, éthyle, propyle, et le groupe alkylène comporte de 1 à 4 atomes de carbone, et désigne de préférence le groupe éthylène. De tels polymères sont notamment décrits dans le brevet français
1 583 363
Parmi ces dérivés, on peut citer plus particulièrement les polymères acide adipique/diméthylaminohydroxypropyl-diéthylène-triamine. - (5) Les polymères obtenus par réaction d'une polyalkylène-polyamine comportant deux groupements amine primaire et au moins un groupement amine secondaire, avec un acide dicarboxylique choisi parmi l'acide diglycolique et les acides dicarboxyliques aliphatiques saturés ayant de 3 à 8 atomes de carbone. Le rapport molaire entre la polyalkylène-polylamine et l'acide dicarboxylique étant compris entre 0,8 : 1 et 1,4 : 1 ; le polyaminoamide en résultant étant amené à réagir avec l'épichlorhydrine dans un rapport molaire d'épichlorhydrine par rapport au groupement amine secondaire du polyaminoamide, compris entre 0,5 : 1 et 1,8 : 1. De tels polymères sont notamment décrits dans les brevets américains 3 227 615 et 2 961 347.
- (6) Les cyclopolymères d'alkyldiallylamine ou de dialkyldiallylammonium tels que les homopolymères ou copolymères comportant, comme constituant principal de la chaîne, des motifs répondant aux formules (Ia) ou (Ib) :
- dans lesquelles k et t sont égaux à 0 ou 1, la somme k + t étant égale à 1 ; R12 désigne un atome drhydrogène ou un groupe méthyle ; R10 et R11 indépendamment l'un de l'autre, désignent un groupement alkyle ayant de 1 à 6 atomes de carbone, un groupement hydroxyalkyle dans lequel le groupement alkyle a de préférence 1 à 5 atomes de carbone, un groupement amidoalkyle inférieur (C1-C4), ou alors R10 et R11 peuvent désigner conjointement avec l'atome d'azote auquel ils sont rattachés, des groupements hétérocycliques, tels que pipéridinyle ou morpholinyle ; Y- est un anion tel que bromure, chlorure, acétate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulfite, sulfate, phosphate. Ces polymères sont notamment décrits dans le brevet français
2 080 759 2 190 406 - R10 et R11, indépendamment l'un de l'autre, désignent de préférence un groupement alkyle ayant de 1 à 4 atomes de carbone.
Parmi les polymères définis ci-dessus, on peut citer plus particulièrement l'homopolymère de diméthyldiallyl-ammonium notamment le chlorure de diméthyldiallylammonium vendu sous la dénomination "MERQUAT® 100" par la société NALCO (et ses homologues de faibles masses moléculaires moyenne en poids), les copolymères de chlorure de diallyldiméthylammonium et d'acrylamide commercialisés sous la dénomination "MERQUAT® 550" et les copolymères de diallyldiméthylammonium et d'acide acrylique tels que le "MERQUAT® 295" commercialisé par la société NALCO.
- dans lesquelles k et t sont égaux à 0 ou 1, la somme k + t étant égale à 1 ; R12 désigne un atome drhydrogène ou un groupe méthyle ; R10 et R11 indépendamment l'un de l'autre, désignent un groupement alkyle ayant de 1 à 6 atomes de carbone, un groupement hydroxyalkyle dans lequel le groupement alkyle a de préférence 1 à 5 atomes de carbone, un groupement amidoalkyle inférieur (C1-C4), ou alors R10 et R11 peuvent désigner conjointement avec l'atome d'azote auquel ils sont rattachés, des groupements hétérocycliques, tels que pipéridinyle ou morpholinyle ; Y- est un anion tel que bromure, chlorure, acétate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulfite, sulfate, phosphate. Ces polymères sont notamment décrits dans le brevet français
- (7) Les polymères de diammonium quaternaire par exemple ceux contenant des motifs récurrents répondant à la formule (II) suivant:
- R13, R14, R15 et R16, identiques ou différents, représentent des groupes aliphatiques, alicycliques ou arylaliphatiques contenant de 1 à 20 atomes de carbone ou des groupes hydroxyalkylaliphatiques inférieurs, ou bien R13, R14, R15 et R16, ensemble ou séparément, constituent avec les atomes d'azote auxquels ils sont rattachés des hétérocycles contenant éventuellement un second hétéroatome autre que l'azote, ou bien R13, R14, R15 et R16 représentent un groupe alkyle en C1-C6, linéaire ou ramifié, substitué par un groupement nitrile, ester, acyle, amide ou -CO-O-R17-E ou -CO-NH-R17-E où R17 est un groupe alkylène et E un groupement ammonium quaternaire ;
- A1 et B1 représentent des groupements polyméthyléniques contenant de 2 à 20 atomes de carbone, pouvant être linéaires ou ramifiés, saturés ou insaturés, et pouvant contenir, liés à ou intercalés dans la chaîne principale, un ou plusieurs cycles aromatiques, ou un ou plusieurs atomes d'oxygène, de soufre ou des groupements sulfoxyde, sulfone, disulfure, amino, alkylamino, hydroxyle; ammonium quaternaire, uréido, amide ou ester, et X- désigne un anion dérivé d'un acide minéral ou organique tel que acétate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulfite, sulfate, phosphate, méthosulfate ou un halogénure comme le chlorure ou le bromure,
- A1, R13 et R15 peuvent former avec les deux atomes d'azote auxquels ils sont rattachés un cycle pipérazinique ; en outre, si A1 désigne un groupe alkylène ou hydroxyalkylène linéaire ou ramifié, saturé ou insaturé, B1 peut également désigner un groupement :
-(CH2)n-CO-E'-OC-(CH2)n-
dans lequel E' désigne :- a) un reste de glycol de formule -O-Z-O-, où Z désigne un groupe hydrocarboné linéaire ou ramifié, ou un groupement répondant à l'une des formules suivantes :
-(CH2-CH2-O)x-CH2-CH2-
-[CH2-CH(CH3)-O]y-CH2CH(CH3)-
où x et y désignent un nombre entier de 1 à 4, représentant un degré de polymérisation défini et unique ou un nombre quelconque de 1 à 4 représentant un degré de polymérisation moyen ; - b) un reste de diamine bis-secondaire tel qu'un dérivé de pipérazine ;
- c) un reste de diamine bis-primaire de formule -NH-Y-NH-, où Y désigne un groupe hydrocarboné linéaire ou ramifié, ou bien le groupe divalent -CH2-CH2-S-S-CH2-CH2- ;
- d) un groupement uréylène de formule -NH-CO-NH-.
- a) un reste de glycol de formule -O-Z-O-, où Z désigne un groupe hydrocarboné linéaire ou ramifié, ou un groupement répondant à l'une des formules suivantes :
De préférence, X- est un anion tel que halogénure et notamment le chlorure ou le bromure.
Des polymères de ce type sont notamment décrits dans les brevets français2 320 330 2 270 846 2 316 271 2 336 434 2 413 907 US 2 273 780 2 375 853 2 388 614 2 454 547 3 206 462 2 261 002 2 271 378 3 874 870 4 001 432 3 929 990 3 966 904 4 005 193 4 025 617 4 025 627 4 025 653 4 026 945 4 027 020
Un composé de formule (III) particulièrement préféré est celui pour lequel R13, R14, R15 et R16, représentent un radical méthyle et n = 3, p = 6 et X = Cl, dénommé Hexadimethrine chloride selon la nomenclature INCl (CTFA). - (8) Les polymères de polyammonium quaternaire constitués de motifs de formule (IV) :
- R18, R19, R20 et R21, identiques ou différents, représentent un atome d'hydrogène ou un groupe méthyle, éthyle, propyle, β-hydroxyéthyle, β-hydroxypropyle ou -CH2CH2(OCH2CH2)pOH, où p est égal à 0 ou à un nombre entier compris entre 1 et 6, sous réserve que R18, R19, R20 et R21 ne représentent pas simultanément un atome d'hydrogène,
- r et s, identiques ou différents, sont des nombres entiers compris entre 1 et 6,
- q est égal à 0 ou à un nombre entier compris entre 1 et 34,
- X- désigne un anion tel qu'un halogénure,
- A désigne un radical d'un dihalogénure ou représente de préférence -CH2-CH2-O-CH2-CH2-.
De tels composés sont notamment décrits dans la demande de brevetEP-A-122 324
- (9) Les polymères quaternaires de vinylpyrrolidone et de vinylimidazole tels que par exemple les produits commercialisés sous les dénominations Luviquat® FC 905, FC 550 et FC 370 par la société B.A.S.F.
- (1) homopolymers or copolymers derived from acrylic or methacrylic esters or amides and comprising at least one of the units of the following formulas:
- R 1 and R 2 , identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, and preferably a methyl or ethyl group;
- R 3 , identical or different, denote a hydrogen atom or a CH 3 group;
- the symbols A, which are identical or different, represent an alkyl group, linear or branched, comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 or 3 carbon atoms, or a hydroxyalkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms;
- R 4 , R 5 , R 6 , identical or different, represent an alkyl group having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms or a benzyl group, and preferably an alkyl group having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms;
- X denotes an anion derived from an inorganic or organic acid such as a methosulfate anion or a halide such as chloride or bromide.
The copolymers of family (1) may also contain one or more units derived from comonomers which can be chosen from the family of acrylamides, methacrylamides, diacetone-acrylamides, acrylamides and methacrylamides substituted on the nitrogen atom by lower alkyl groups. (C 1 -C 4 ), groups derived from acrylic or methacrylic acids or their esters, from vinyllactams such as vinylpyrrolidone or vinylcaprolactam, from vinyl esters.
Thus, among these copolymers of family (1), there may be mentioned:- copolymers of acrylamide and of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with dimethyl sulfate or with a dimethyl halide,
- the copolymers of acrylamide and of methacryloyloxyethyltrimethyl-ammonium chloride described, for example, in the patent application
EP-A-080976 - copolymers of acrylamide and methacryloyloxyethyl-trimethylammonium methosulfate,
- vinylpyrrolidone / dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate or methacrylate copolymers which may or may not be quaternized. These polymers are described in detail in French patents
2077143 2393573 - dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate / vinylcaprolactam / vinylpyrrolidone terpolymers,
- vinylpyrrolidone / methacrylamidopropyl-di-methylamine copolymers,
- quaternized vinylpyrrolidone / methacrylamide copolymers of dimethylaminopropyl, and
- crosslinked polymers of methacryloyloxyalkyl (C 1 -C 4 ) trialkyl (C 1 -C 4 ) ammonium salts such as polymers obtained by homopolymerization of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, or by copolymerization of acrylamide with quaternized dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate with methyl chloride, homo or copolymerization being followed by crosslinking with a compound containing olefinically unsaturated, in particular methylene bis acrylamide. It is more particularly possible to use a crosslinked acrylamide / methacryloyloxyethyl trimethylammonium chloride (20/80 by weight) copolymer in the form of a dispersion containing 50% by weight of said copolymer in mineral oil. This dispersion is sold under the name "Salcare ® SC 92" by the company Ciba. It is also possible to use a crosslinked homopolymer of methacryloyloxyethyl trimethylammonium chloride containing about 50% by weight of the homopolymer in mineral oil or in a liquid ester. These dispersions are sold under the names "Salcare ® SC 95" and "Salcare ® SC 96" by the company Ciba.
- (2) Polymers consisting of piperazinyl units and divalent alkylene or hydroxyalkylene groups with straight or branched chains, optionally interrupted by oxygen, sulfur or nitrogen atoms or by aromatic or heterocyclic rings, as well as the products of oxidation and / or quaternization of these polymers. Such polymers are in particular described in French patents.
2,162,025 2,280,361 - (3) Water-soluble polyaminoamides, prepared in particular by polycondensation of an acidic compound with a polyamine; these polyaminoamides can be crosslinked with an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide, a dianhydride, an unsaturated dianhydride, a bis-unsaturated derivative, a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bis-haloacyldiamine, an alkyl bis-halide or else by an oligomer resulting from the reaction of a bifunctional compound reactive with a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bis-haloacyldiamine, an alkyl bis-halide, d an epilhalohydrin, a diepoxide or a bis-unsaturated derivative; the crosslinking agent being used in proportions ranging from 0.025 to 0.35 mol per amine group of the polyaminoamide; these polyaminoamides can be alkylated or, if they contain one or more tertiary amine functions, quaternized. Such polymers are in particular described in French patents.
2252840 2368508 - (4) Polyaminoamide derivatives resulting from the condensation of polyalkylene polyamines with polycarboxylic acids, followed by alkylation with bifunctional agents. Mention may be made, for example, of adipic acid / dialkylaminohydroxyalkyl-dialkylenetriamine polymers in which the alkyl group contains from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and preferably denotes a methyl, ethyl or propyl group, and the alkylene group contains from 1 to 4 atoms. of carbon, and preferably denotes the ethylene group. Such polymers are in particular described in the French patent
1,583,363
Among these derivatives, there may be mentioned more particularly the adipic acid / dimethylaminohydroxypropyl-diethylene-triamine polymers. - (5) Polymers obtained by reacting a polyalkylene polyamine comprising two primary amine groups and at least one secondary amine group, with a dicarboxylic acid chosen from diglycolic acid and saturated aliphatic dicarboxylic acids having from 3 to 8 carbon atoms. carbon. The molar ratio between the polyalkylene polylamine and the dicarboxylic acid being between 0.8: 1 and 1.4: 1; the resulting polyaminoamide being reacted with epichlorohydrin in a molar ratio of epichlorohydrin relative to the secondary amine group of the polyaminoamide, of between 0.5: 1 and 1.8: 1. Such polymers are in particular described in the U.S. patents 3,227,615 and 2,961,347.
- (6) Alkyldiallylamine or dialkyldiallylammonium cyclopolymers such as homopolymers or copolymers comprising, as main constituent of the chain, units corresponding to formulas (Ia) or (Ib):
- in which k and t are equal to 0 or 1, the sum k + t being equal to 1; R 12 denotes a hydrogen atom or a methyl group; R 10 and R 11, independently of one another, denote an alkyl group having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a hydroxyalkyl group in which the alkyl group preferably has 1 to 5 carbon atoms, a lower amidoalkyl group ( C 1 -C 4 ), or else R 10 and R 11 can designate, together with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, heterocyclic groups, such as piperidinyl or morpholinyl; Y - is an anion such as bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulfite, sulfate, phosphate. These polymers are in particular described in the French patent
2,080,759 2 190 406 - R 10 and R 11 , independently of one another, preferably denote an alkyl group having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms.
Among the polymers defined above, there may be mentioned more particularly the homopolymer of dimethyldiallyl-ammonium, in particular dimethyldiallylammonium chloride sold under the name "MERQUAT ® 100" by the company NALCO (and its homologues of low average molecular masses by weight) , diallyldimethylammonium chloride copolymers and acrylamide sold under the name "Merquat ® 550" and copolymers of diallyldimethylammonium and acrylic acid such as "Merquat ® 295" sold by the company Nalco.
- in which k and t are equal to 0 or 1, the sum k + t being equal to 1; R 12 denotes a hydrogen atom or a methyl group; R 10 and R 11, independently of one another, denote an alkyl group having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a hydroxyalkyl group in which the alkyl group preferably has 1 to 5 carbon atoms, a lower amidoalkyl group ( C 1 -C 4 ), or else R 10 and R 11 can designate, together with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, heterocyclic groups, such as piperidinyl or morpholinyl; Y - is an anion such as bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulfite, sulfate, phosphate. These polymers are in particular described in the French patent
- (7) Quaternary diammonium polymers, for example those containing repeating units corresponding to the following formula (II):
- R 13 , R 14 , R 15 and R 16 , identical or different, represent aliphatic, alicyclic or arylaliphatic groups containing from 1 to 20 carbon atoms or lower hydroxyalkylaliphatic groups, or alternatively R 13 , R 14 , R 15 and R 16 , together or separately, together with the nitrogen atoms to which they are attached, constitute heterocycles optionally containing a second heteroatom other than nitrogen, or else R 13 , R 14 , R 15 and R 16 represent a C 1 alkyl group -C 6 , linear or branched, substituted by a nitrile, ester, acyl, amide or -CO-OR 17 -E or -CO-NH-R 17 -E group where R 17 is an alkylene group and E a quaternary ammonium group ;
- A 1 and B 1 represent polymethylene groups containing from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, which may be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and which may contain, linked to or intercalated in the main chain, one or more aromatic rings, or one or more several oxygen or sulfur atoms or sulfoxide, sulfone, disulfide, amino, alkylamino, hydroxyl groups; quaternary ammonium, ureido, amide or ester, and X - denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid such as acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulfite, sulfate, phosphate, methosulfate or a halide such as chloride or bromide,
- A 1 , R 13 and R 15 can form with the two nitrogen atoms to which they are attached a piperazine ring; furthermore, if A 1 denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkylene or hydroxyalkylene group, B 1 may also designate a group:
- (CH 2 ) n -CO-E'-OC- (CH 2 ) n -
in which E 'denotes:- a) a glycol residue of formula -OZO-, where Z denotes a linear or branched hydrocarbon group, or a group corresponding to one of the following formulas:
- (CH 2 -CH 2 -O) x -CH 2 -CH 2 -
- [CH 2 -CH (CH 3 ) -O] y -CH 2 CH (CH 3 ) -
where x and y denote an integer from 1 to 4, representing a defined and unique degree of polymerization or any number from 1 to 4 representing an average degree of polymerization; - b) a bis-secondary diamine residue such as a piperazine derivative;
- c) a bis-primary diamine residue of formula -NH-Y-NH-, where Y denotes a linear or branched hydrocarbon group, or else the divalent group -CH 2 -CH 2 -SS-CH 2 -CH 2 -;
- d) a ureylene group of formula -NH-CO-NH-.
- a) a glycol residue of formula -OZO-, where Z denotes a linear or branched hydrocarbon group, or a group corresponding to one of the following formulas:
Preferably, X - is an anion such as halide and in particular chloride or bromide.
Polymers of this type are described in particular in French patents.2,320,330 2,270,846 2,316,271 2 336 434 2 413 907 US 2,273,780 2,375,853 2 388 614 2 454 547 3,206,462 2 261 002 2 271 378 3,874,870 4,001,432 3 929 990 3 966 904 4,005,193 4,025,617 4,025,627 4,025,653 4,026,945 4,027,020
A particularly preferred compound of formula (III) is that for which R 13 , R 14 , R 15 and R 16 represent a methyl radical and n = 3, p = 6 and X = Cl, called Hexadimethrine chloride according to the INCl nomenclature ( CTFA). - (8) Polymers of quaternary polyammonium consisting of units of formula (IV):
- R 18 , R 19 , R 20 and R 21 , identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl, ethyl, propyl, β-hydroxyethyl, β-hydroxypropyl or -CH 2 CH 2 (OCH 2 CH 2 ) group p OH, where p is 0 or an integer between 1 and 6, with the proviso that R 18 , R 19 , R 20 and R 21 do not simultaneously represent a hydrogen atom,
- r and s, identical or different, are integers between 1 and 6,
- q is equal to 0 or to an integer between 1 and 34,
- X - denotes an anion such as a halide,
- A denotes a radical of a dihalide or preferably represents -CH 2 -CH 2 -O-CH 2 -CH 2 -.
Such compounds are in particular described in the patent applicationEP-A-122 324
- (9) Quaternary polymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of vinylimidazole, such as for example the products sold under the names Luviquat ® FC 905, FC 550 and FC 370 by BASF
D'autres polymères cationiques utilisables dans le cadre de l'invention sont des polyalkylèneimines, en particulier des polyéthylèneimines, des polymères contenant des motifs vinylpyridine ou vinylpyridinium, des condensats de polyamines et d'épichlorhydrine, et des polyuréylènes quaternaires.Other cationic polymers which can be used in the context of the invention are polyalkyleneimines, in particular polyethyleneimines, polymers containing vinylpyridine or vinylpyridinium units, condensates of polyamines and epichlorohydrin, and quaternary polyureylenes.
Selon une variante préférée, les polymères cationiques utilisables selon l'invention présentent une charge cationique permanente correspondant à la présence de motifs comportant des groupements amines quaternaires.According to a preferred variant, the cationic polymers which can be used according to the invention exhibit a permanent cationic charge corresponding to the presence of units comprising quaternary amine groups.
De préférence, les polymères cationiques de l'invention sont choisis parmi les cyclopolymères de dialkyldiallylammonium et les polymères de diammonium quaternaire de formule (II).Preferably, the cationic polymers of the invention are chosen from dialkyldiallylammonium cyclopolymers and quaternary diammonium polymers of formula (II).
Le ou les polymères cationiques représentent avantageusement de 0,1 à 10%, mieux de 0,2 à 8%, en poids du poids total de la composition.The cationic polymer (s) advantageously represent from 0.1 to 10%, better still from 0.2 to 8%, by weight of the total weight of the composition.
L'étape de traitement cosmétique peut être mise en oeuvre à partir d'une composition sous la forme d'une lotion, épaissie ou non, d'une crème, d'un gel, ou de toute autre forme appropriée.The cosmetic treatment step can be implemented from a composition in the form of a lotion, thickened or not, of a cream, of a gel, or of any other suitable form.
Les compositions utilisées sont généralement des compositions aqueuses pouvant contenir des ingrédients habituellement utilisés dans les compositions cosmétiques, tels que des solvants, des agents tensioactifs, des épaississants, des agents conservateurs, des parfums ou tout autre additif utilisé dans ce type de composition.The compositions used are generally aqueous compositions which may contain ingredients usually used in cosmetic compositions, such as solvents, surfactants, thickeners, preservatives, perfumes or any other additive used in this type of composition.
Selon un mode de réalisation particulier, le procédé de l'invention peut comprendre une étape finale supplémentaire de mise en forme, par exemple une étape de lissage, notamment si l'étape précédente est une étape de traitement cosmétique.According to a particular embodiment, the method of the invention can comprise an additional final shaping step, for example a smoothing step, in particular if the previous step is a cosmetic treatment step.
Les exemples qui suivent illustrent le procédé de l'invention mis en oeuvre dans plusieurs applications cosmétiques capillaires.The examples which follow illustrate the process of the invention used in several cosmetic hair applications.
Des mèches de cheveux sont lavées et essorées. Un pré séchage des cheveux est alors mis en oeuvre jusqu'à obtenir un séchage d'environ 80%.Strands of hair are washed and wrung out. Pre-drying of the hair is then carried out until about 80% drying is obtained.
Sur ces mèches pré-séchées, on applique de la vapeur avec un débit de l'ordre de 3g/min, cette application de vapeur étant suivie de l'étape de mise en forme/lissage au moyen d'une pince lissante chauffée à au moins 100°C. Ce traitement est effectué mèche à mèche sur l'ensemble de la chevelure.On these pre-dried locks, steam is applied with a flow rate of the order of 3 g / min, this application of steam being followed by the shaping / smoothing step by means of a straightening forceps heated to minus 100 ° C. This treatment is carried out strand by strand over the entire hair.
On applique ensuite une coloration d'oxydation permanente de nuance 5.64 (chatain clair rouge cuivré de la gamme Majirouge) qui consiste à appliquer sur les fibres capillaires une ou plusieurs bases d'oxydation et un ou plusieurs coupleurs bien connus, du domaine de la coloration permanente, en présence d'un agent oxydant (peroxyde d'hydrogène).A permanent oxidation coloring of shade 5.64 (light brown copper red from the Majirouge range) is then applied which consists in applying to the hair fibers one or more oxidation bases and one or more well-known couplers, from the field of coloring. permanent, in the presence of an oxidizing agent (hydrogen peroxide).
Parallèlement, on réalise à nouveau l'essai ci-dessus mais sans mettre en oeuvre l'étape d'application de vapeur ni l'étape de mise en forme dans les conditions précédentes mais en effectuant un lissage avec une pince de lissage chauffante classiqueAt the same time, the above test is carried out again but without implementing the steam application step or the shaping step under the previous conditions but by performing a smoothing with a conventional heated smoothing pliers.
On observe que les cheveux traités avec la vapeur sont plus brillants et plus lisses que ceux traités uniquement avec la pince de lissage chauffante classique.It is observed that the hair treated with steam is shinier and smoother than that treated only with the conventional heated straightening clip.
Après plusieurs shampooings, on constate une meilleure ténacité de la couleur sur les cheveux traités avec la vapeur.After several shampoos, there is a better tenacity of the color on the hair treated with the steam.
Sur des mèches de cheveux lavés et essorés, on applique au pinceau une crème réductrice comprenant comprenant des sels d'acide thioglycolique. Après le temps de pose, les mèches sont à nouveau rincées puis essorées et préséchées à 80% au sèche-cheveux.To locks of washed and towel-dried hair, a reducing cream is applied with a brush comprising thioglycolic acid salts. After the exposure time, the locks are rinsed again then wrung out and pre-dried to 80% with a hair dryer.
Sur ces fibres pré-séchées, on applique de la vapeur dans les conditions définies précédemment, cette application de vapeur étant suivie de l'étape de mise en forme/lissage au moyen d'une pince lissante chauffée à au moins 100°C. Ce traitement est effectué mèche à mèche sur l'ensemble de la chevelure.On these pre-dried fibers, steam is applied under the conditions defined above, this application of steam being followed by the shaping / smoothing step by means of a straightening forceps heated to at least 100 ° C. This treatment is carried out strand by strand over the entire hair.
On applique ensuite le fixateur sur la totalité de la chevelure. Après un temps de pose, les mèches sont rincées, essorées et séchées.The fixative is then applied to the entire hair. After an exposure time, the locks are rinsed, drained and dried.
Parallèlement, on réalise à nouveau l'essai ci-dessus mais sans mettre en oeuvre l'étape d'application de vapeur ni l'étape de mise en forme dans les conditions précédentes mais en effectuant un lissage avec une pince de lissage chauffante classiqueAt the same time, the above test is carried out again but without implementing the steam application step or the shaping step under the previous conditions but by performing a smoothing with a conventional heated smoothing pliers.
On observe que les cheveux traités avec le procédé de l'invention sont plus brillants et plus lisses au toucher et visuellement. Les cheveux sont de plus nettement mieux défrisés avec le procédé de l'invention.It is observed that the hair treated with the process of the invention is shinier and smoother to the touch and visually. The hair is moreover markedly better straightened with the process of the invention.
Après plusieurs shampooings, on constate que l'effet lissant persiste lorsqu'il a été obtenu avec le procédé de l'invention.After several shampoos, it is observed that the smoothing effect persists when it has been obtained with the process of the invention.
Sur des mèches de cheveux lavées et essorées, on applique le soin «Ciment thermique» de Kerastase qui est un produit de soin non rincé comprenant des silicones et des tensio-actifs cationiques. Un pré séchage des mèches est alors mis en oeuvre jusqu'à obtenir un séchage d'environ 80%.On washed and towel-dried locks of hair, the “thermal cement” treatment from Kerastase is applied, which is a leave-on care product comprising silicones and cationic surfactants. Pre-drying of the locks is then carried out until about 80% drying is obtained.
Sur ces mèches pré-séchées, on applique de la vapeur dans les conditions définies précédemment, cette application de vapeur étant suivie de l'étape de mise en forme/lissage au moyen d'une pince lissante chauffée à au moins 100°C.Steam is applied to these pre-dried locks under the conditions defined above, this application of steam being followed by the shaping / smoothing step by means of a straightening forceps heated to at least 100 ° C.
Parallèlement, on réalise à nouveau l'essai ci-dessus mais sans mettre en oeuvre l'étape d'application de vapeur ni l'étape de mise en forme dans les conditions précédentes mais en effectuant un lissage avec une pince de lissage chauffante classiqueAt the same time, the above test is carried out again but without implementing the steam application step or the shaping step under the previous conditions but by performing a smoothing with a conventional heated smoothing pliers.
On observe que les mèches traitées selon le procédé de la présente invention sont plus brillants et plus lisses au toucher et visuellement. Les cheveux sont nettement mieux lissés.It is observed that the locks treated according to the process of the present invention are brighter and smoother to the touch and visually. The hair is much better straightened.
Après plusieurs shampooings, on constate que l'effet lissant persiste lorsqu'il a été obtenu avec le procédé de l'invention.After several shampoos, it is observed that the smoothing effect persists when it has been obtained with the process of the invention.
Sur des mèches de cheveux lavées et essorées, on applique un après shampoing « Nutricéramide « de la marque Elsève. Après le temps de pose, les mèches sont rincées puis essorées et préséchées à 80% au sèche-cheveux.On washed and wrung locks of hair, a conditioner "Nutricéramide" of the brand Elsève is applied. After the exposure time, the locks are rinsed then wrung out and pre-dried to 80% with a hair dryer.
Sur ces mèches pré-séchées, on applique de la vapeur dans les conditions définies précédemment cette application de vapeur étant suivie de l'étape de mise en forme/lissage au moyen d'une pince lissante chauffée à au moins 100°C.On these pre-dried locks, steam is applied under the conditions defined above, this application of steam being followed by the shaping / smoothing step by means of a straightening forceps heated to at least 100 ° C.
Parallèlement, on réalise à nouveau l'essai ci-dessus mais sans mettre en oeuvre l'étape d'application de vapeur ni l'étape de mise en forme dans les conditions précédentes mais en effectuant un lissage avec une pince de lissage chauffante classiqueAt the same time, the above test is carried out again but without implementing the steam application step or the shaping step under the previous conditions but by performing a smoothing with a conventional heated smoothing pliers.
On observe que les mèches traitées avec le procédé de la présente invention sont plus brillants et plus lisses au toucher et visuellement. Les mèches sont nettement mieux lissées.It is observed that the locks treated with the process of the present invention are brighter and smoother to the touch and visually. The strands are much better smoothed.
Après plusieurs shampooings, on constate que l'effet lissant persiste lorsqu'il a été obtenu avec le procédé de l'invention.After several shampoos, it is observed that the smoothing effect persists when it has been obtained with the process of the invention.
Des mèches de cheveux sont lavées et essorées. Un pré séchage des cheveux est alors mis en oeuvre jusqu'à obtenir un séchage d'environ 80%.Strands of hair are washed and wrung out. Pre-drying of the hair is then carried out until about 80% drying is obtained.
Sur ces mèches pré-séchées, on applique de la vapeur dans les conditions définies dans la présente invention, cette application de vapeur étant suivie de l'étape de mise en forme/lissage au moyen d'une pince lissante chauffée à au moins 100°C. Ce traitement est effectué mèche à mèche sur l'ensemble de la chevelure.On these pre-dried locks, steam is applied under the conditions defined in the present invention, this application of steam being followed by the shaping / smoothing step by means of a straightening forceps heated to at least 100 ° vs. This treatment is carried out strand by strand over the entire hair.
Parallèlement, on réalise à nouveau l'essai ci-dessus mais sans mettre en oeuvre l'étape d'application de vapeur en effectuant un lissage avec une pince de lissage chauffante classique sans application de vapeurAt the same time, the above test is carried out again but without implementing the step of applying steam by smoothing with a conventional heated smoothing pliers without applying steam.
On observe que les cheveux traités avec la vapeur sont plus brillants et plus lisses que ceux traités uniquement avec la pince de lissage chauffante classique.It is observed that the hair treated with steam is shinier and smoother than that treated only with the conventional heated straightening clip.
Claims (9)
- Method for treating hair fibres which comprises:the application to hair fibres of steam in an amount of less than 5 g/min,the shaping with a smoothing iron of these hair fibres at a temperature of between 90°C and 230°C,the shaping being carried out after the stage of application of steam, the method comprising a single application of steam per lock of treated hair fibres.
- Method according to Claim 1, in which the amount of steam used is of the quantity of steam is between 1 and 4 g/min.
- Method according to Claim 1, in which the smoothing is carried out in a single pass per treated lock of hair fibres.
- Method according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the steam comprises one or more cosmetic active principles and/or ingredients.
- Method according to any one of the preceding claims, additionally comprising a stage of cosmetic treatment of the hair fibres using a composition comprising one or more cosmetic active principles.
- Method according to Claim 5, comprising, in order, the cosmetic treatment stage, followed by the stage of application of steam and then by the stage of shaping the hair fibres.
- Method according to Claim 5, comprising, in order, the stage of application of steam, followed by the stage of shaping the hair fibres and then by the cosmetic treatment stage.
- Method according to Claim 5, comprising, in order, the application of the steam, followed by the cosmetic treatment stage and then by the stage of shaping the hair fibres.
- Method according to either one of Claims 5 and 6, in which the cosmetic treatment stage is selected from a stage of caring for the hair fibres, a stage of washing the fibres, a stage of shaping, a stage of permanent, semipermanent or temporary dyeing, a stage of permanent deformation using a reducing agent and optionally a fixative, and a stage of alkaline straightening with sodium hydroxide or with guanidine carbonate.
Applications Claiming Priority (1)
Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
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FR0952200A FR2943895B1 (en) | 2009-04-03 | 2009-04-03 | PROCESS FOR TREATING HAIR WITH WATER VAPOR. |
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EP2236053A1 EP2236053A1 (en) | 2010-10-06 |
EP2236053B1 EP2236053B1 (en) | 2016-03-30 |
EP2236053B2 true EP2236053B2 (en) | 2021-03-03 |
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EP10158979.4A Active EP2236053B2 (en) | 2009-04-03 | 2010-04-01 | Method for the steam treatment of hair |
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US (2) | US9603429B2 (en) |
EP (1) | EP2236053B2 (en) |
JP (4) | JP2010241812A (en) |
KR (1) | KR101235394B1 (en) |
CN (2) | CN101856172A (en) |
BR (1) | BRPI1001018B1 (en) |
ES (1) | ES2576735T3 (en) |
FR (1) | FR2943895B1 (en) |
MX (1) | MX338820B (en) |
Families Citing this family (6)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
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FR3032118B1 (en) | 2015-01-29 | 2018-03-16 | L'oreal | AEROSOL COMPOSITION COMPRISING A SILICONE FUNCTIONALIZED BY AT LEAST ONE ALCOXYSILANE MOTIF AND AN AMPHOTERE AND / OR CATIONIC FIXING POLYMER |
FR3032117B1 (en) | 2015-01-29 | 2018-03-16 | L'oreal | COMPOSITION COMPRISING A SILICONE FUNCTIONALIZED BY AT LEAST ONE ALCOXYSILANE MOTIF AND A NONIONIC OR ANIONIC FIXING POLYMER |
FR3032119B1 (en) * | 2015-01-29 | 2017-01-20 | Oreal | METHOD FOR TREATING HAIR WITH AT LEAST ONE SILICONE FUNCTIONALIZED BY AT LEAST ONE ALCOXYSILANE MOTIF, AND STEAM |
FR3039374B1 (en) * | 2015-07-29 | 2019-12-20 | L'oreal | PROCESS FOR TREATING HAIR FIBERS |
FR3043549B1 (en) * | 2015-11-12 | 2018-12-07 | L'oreal | PROCESS FOR TREATING KERATIN FIBERS WITH A COMPOSITION COMPRISING A RETICULATING AGENT AND A STEAM IRON |
JP6317515B1 (en) * | 2017-10-23 | 2018-04-25 | 株式会社フルメタルジャケット | How to apply straight perm to hair |
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2010
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- 2010-03-31 MX MX2010003623A patent/MX338820B/en active IP Right Grant
- 2010-04-01 EP EP10158979.4A patent/EP2236053B2/en active Active
- 2010-04-01 ES ES10158979.4T patent/ES2576735T3/en active Active
- 2010-04-02 CN CN201010174103A patent/CN101856172A/en active Pending
- 2010-04-02 JP JP2010085876A patent/JP2010241812A/en active Pending
- 2010-04-02 KR KR1020100030464A patent/KR101235394B1/en active IP Right Grant
- 2010-04-02 CN CN201610381774.2A patent/CN105831947A/en active Pending
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2020
- 2020-09-10 JP JP2020151979A patent/JP2020203128A/en active Pending
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JP2018023795A (en) | 2018-02-15 |
CN105831947A (en) | 2016-08-10 |
BRPI1001018A2 (en) | 2011-04-26 |
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US20100258141A1 (en) | 2010-10-14 |
JP2020203128A (en) | 2020-12-24 |
FR2943895A1 (en) | 2010-10-08 |
EP2236053B1 (en) | 2016-03-30 |
EP2236053A1 (en) | 2010-10-06 |
JP2010241812A (en) | 2010-10-28 |
ES2576735T3 (en) | 2016-07-11 |
FR2943895B1 (en) | 2011-05-06 |
KR20100110748A (en) | 2010-10-13 |
JP2016025937A (en) | 2016-02-12 |
JP7020826B2 (en) | 2022-02-16 |
US9603429B2 (en) | 2017-03-28 |
MX2010003623A (en) | 2010-10-13 |
CN101856172A (en) | 2010-10-13 |
BRPI1001018B1 (en) | 2020-09-15 |
US20170143091A1 (en) | 2017-05-25 |
KR101235394B1 (en) | 2013-02-21 |
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