EP2236053B1 - Method for the steam treatment of hair - Google Patents

Description

The present invention relates to a novel method for treating hair fibers, in particular hair.

It is known to smooth the hair fibers with pliers of smoothing. These clamps make it possible to obtain a smoothing of the keratinous fibers at high temperature without pulling on the hair, unlike brushings. However, to obtain a smooth appearance, it is necessary to perform several passes of the clamp which significantly increases the time of hair treatment. Moreover, the repeated application of the smoothing flat grippers may cause a degradation of the hair fibers due to the application temperature of the smoothing gripper.

It is also known to use steam for the treatment of hair, this steam treatment may be associated with different cosmetic hair treatments. In particular, it is known in the field of setting (non-permanent shaping) a hair treatment process which comprises the application of steam for less than 2 minutes at a temperature of at least 75 ° C on keratin fibers maintained under mechanical tension and on which a special cosmetic composition comprising, for example, an oil, a silicone, oxidation dyes, natural dyes, direct dyes and the like has previously been applied. Examples are the documents EP 659,395 , EP 659 393 , EP 659,396 , EP 659,397 , US 2004/0000319 .

It is also known to treat the hair with straighteners delivering steam. However, these clamps do not provide a satisfactory cosmetic effect because the heat dispensed by these clamps is less important than that provided by the conventional straighteners. We can notably quote the document WO 2004/002262 which describes a method implementing such a method, the dispensed steam further comprising a cosmetic non-volatile shaping product.

These methods, while improving the cosmetic and visual properties of the hair fibers, are long and often difficult to implement. The cosmetic effect obtained is also non-retentive washing.

Thus, the purpose of the present invention is to develop a new process for treating keratin fibers which makes it possible to obtain an improvement in cosmetic and visual properties of the hair fibers with easy and quick processes to implement, and which are persistent to at least one wash.

This object is achieved by the present invention which relates to a method for treating hair fibers according to claim 1.

For a tow of treated hair fibers, the steam application step and the shaping step are not carried out simultaneously on the same portion of hair fibers, these two steps can nevertheless be misses implemented with the same apparatus. configured to implement successively these two steps. Alternatively, two separate devices can be used to implement these dissociated steps.

The method of the present invention makes it possible in particular to obtain rapid shaping of the hair fibers while improving their cosmetic properties. Moreover, the method of the present invention makes it possible to obtain an improvement in the cosmetic properties that are at least one wash and that the application is user-friendly.

The hair fibers treated by the process of the invention thus have an improved smoothness with a brighter appearance than that obtained with the methods of the technique and this even in the absence of additional cosmetic active ingredients.

In the context of the present invention, the term "hair fibers", keratinous fibers such as hair or synthetic fibers called "extensions" which are intended to be reported on the hair of a person by various means including bonding and this to change the appearance of a person's natural hair, for example, by changing the volume, color or appearance of the hair.

The application of the steam may be carried out before or after the step of shaping the hair fibers. According to a particular embodiment, the shaping of the hair fibers is performed after the steam treatment of these hair fibers.

The application of the steam can be repeated several times on the same fibers, however, it is possible to obtain a very good cosmetic result after a single application of steam.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the amount of steam is between 1 and 4 g / min.

According to one particular embodiment, the water vapor that is applied to the hair contains one or more cosmetic ingredients and / or active ingredients such as a perfume, a shaping or conditioning active ingredient, etc.

The application of steam may be carried out using any apparatus known per se for generating the amount of steam useful in the process of the invention. According to a particular embodiment, this apparatus is portable, that is to say that the reservoir for generating the steam is in contact with the part of the device comprising the steam distribution orifices.

The shaping step of the hair fibers can be carried out with any type of means known in the art for obtaining a temperature on the fibers of at least 50 ° C. The shaping means of the capillary fibers are for example devices having a heating surface adapted to come into contact with the capillary fibers and to apply to these fibers a tension, even slight, to smooth, comb, disentangle the hair fibers.

According to a particular embodiment of the process of the invention, the shaping temperature is greater than 90 ° C, preferably between 90 ° C and 230 ° C, in particular between 150 and 200 ° C.

According to one variant, the shaping step is carried out by means of pliers for smoothing. In particular, mention may be made of flat pliers for smoothing described in patents US5957140 , US5046516 , US7044139 , US5223694 , US5091629 .

Although the shaping, in particular the smoothing of the hair fibers, can be carried out several times, very satisfactory results are obtained with a single passage of the smoothing pliers.

The method of the present invention makes it possible in particular when the application of the steam is carried out before shaping, to hydrate the fibers sufficiently to reduce the degradation thereof during the implementation of the shaping. at a temperature above 50 ° C.

When steam is applied after shaping, the steam re-hydrates the fibers, reducing the degradation of hair fibers in the same way.

Preferably, the shaping step is carried out after the steam treatment.

According to a particular embodiment, the method of the invention further comprises a step of cosmetic treatment of the hair fibers by means of a composition comprising one or more cosmetic active agents.

This cosmetic treatment step may be carried out before or after the application of the steam and / or before or after the shaping of the hair fibers. It should be noted in particular that this cosmetic treatment step is not carried out simultaneously with the application of steam.

According to a first variant, the method of the invention comprises, in order, the cosmetic treatment step, followed by the application of the steam and then the shaping of the hair fibers.

According to a second variant, the method of the invention comprises in order the application of the steam, followed by the shaping of the hair fibers, and then the cosmetic treatment step.

According to a third variant, the method of the invention comprises in order the application of steam, followed by the cosmetic treatment step and then the step of shaping the hair fibers.

According to these two variants, the method of the invention may comprise a second treatment step in post or pretreatment of the hair fibers, identical or different from the first cosmetic treatment step.

The cosmetic treatment step may be a step of care of the hair fibers, which may or may not be followed by rinsing, a step of washing the fibers, a shaping step or control of the shape, for example a fixing gel, a shaping foam, a lacquer, a non-rinsed conditioner in the form of a cream, a permanent, semi-permanent or temporary coloring step, a permanent deformation step at using a reducing agent and optionally a fixing agent, an alkaline straightening step with sodium hydroxide or with guanidine carbonate.

As active cosmetic agents, mention may be made of coloring precursors, direct dyes, silicone polymers or not, fixing or not, oils mineral, vegetable or synthetic, waxes, reducing agents, oxidants, UV filters, conditioning agents, anti-free radical agents, sequestering or stabilizing agents, antioxidants, preservatives, acidifiers, alkaline agents perfumes, volatile or nonvolatile silicones, chemically reactive or inert polymers, pigments, organic or inorganic solid particles, thickeners, vitamins, plant extracts, pro-penetrating or swelling agents of the fiber.

By way of example, mention may be made in particular of non-polymeric, non-coloring cationic cosmetic agents containing one or more cationic units and having one or more fatty chains.

By dye is meant not having in its chromophore structure having maximum absorption in the visible.

By fatty chain is meant in the sense of the present invention, any hydrocarbon chain comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 30 carbon atoms.

The cationic cosmetic agent (s) defined above may be chosen from primary, secondary, tertiary and quaternary, aliphatic or cyclic amine groups. Preferably, the amine groups are quaternary.

Thus, the cationic cosmetic agent (s) used according to the invention are generally chosen from cationic surfactants.

By way of example, mention may be made of salts of primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines, optionally polyoxyalkylenated; quaternary ammonium salts with a charge not included in a cycle and without ester function; quaternary imidazoline derivatives; quaternary diammonium salts; quaternary ammonium salts with ester function (s); and / or one of their mixtures.

• ceux qui présentent la formule générale (I) suivante :
  
  dans laquelle les radicaux R₁ à R₄, qui peuvent être identiques ou différents, représentent un radical aliphatique, linéaire ou ramifié, comportant de 1 à 30 atomes de carbone, ou un radical aromatique tel que aryle en C₆-C₃₀ ou alkyl(C₁-C₆)aryle(C₆-C₃₀). Les radicaux aliphatiques peuvent comporter des hétéroatomes tels que notamment l'oxygène, l'azote, le soufre, les halogènes. Les radicaux aliphatiques sont par exemple choisis parmi les radicaux alkyle, alcoxy, polyoxyalkylène(C₂-C₆), alkylamide, alkyl(C₁₂-C₂₂)amido alkyle(C₂-C₆), alkyl(C₁₂-C₂₂)acétate, hydroxyalkyle, comportant environ de 1 à 30 atomes de carbone; X est un anion choisi dans le groupe des halogénures, phosphates, acétates, lactates, alkyl(C₁-C₆)sulfates, alkyl(C₁-C₆)- ou alkyl(C₁-C₆)aryl(C₆-C₃₀)-sulfonates, De préférence R₁ et R₂ désignent un alkyle en C₁-C₄, ou un hydroxyalkyle en C₁-C₄.
• les sels d'ammonium quaternaire de l'imidazoline, comme par exemple celui de formule (II) suivante :
  
  dans laquelle R₆ représente un radical alcényle ou alkyle comportant de 8 à 30 atomes de carbone, R₇ représente un radical alkyle en C₁-C₆ ou hydroxyalkyle en C₁-C₆, X- est un anion choisi dans le groupe des halogénures, phosphates, acétates, lactates, alkyl (C₁-C₆)sulfates, alkyl(C₁-C₆)- ou alkyl(C₁-C₆)aryl(C₆-C₃₀)Sulfonates, x désignant un entier allant de 0 à 100, de préférence de 0 à 20. Comme composé de formule (II), on peut citer le Quatemium-56.
• les sels de diammonium quaternaire de formule (III) :
  
  dans laquelle R₉ désigne un radical aliphatique comportant environ de 16 à 30 atomes de carbone, R₁₀, R₁₁, R₁₂, R₁₃ et R₁₄, identiques ou différents sont choisis parmi l'hydrogène ou un radical alkyle comportant de 1 à 4 atomes de carbone, et X-est un anion choisi dans le groupe des halogénures, acétates, phosphates, nitrates et méthylsulfates. Des sels de diammonium quaternaire de formule (III) convenant à l'invention comprennent notamment le chlorure de propanesuif diammonium.
• les sels d'ammonium quaternaire contenant au moins une fonction ester, par exemple ceux de formule (IV) suivante :
  
  dans laquelle :
  • R₁₅ est choisi parmi les radicaux alkyles en C₁-C₆ et les radicaux hydroxyalkyles ou dihydroxyalkyles en C₁-C₆ ;
  • R₁₆ est choisi parmi :
  • le radical
    
  • les radicaux R₂₀ hydrocarbonés en C₁-C₂₂ linéaires ou ramifiés, saturés ou insaturés,
  • l'atome d'hydrogène,
  • R₁₈ est choisi parmi :
  • le radical
    
  • les radicaux R₂₂ hydrocarbonés en C₁-C₆ linéaires ou ramifiés, saturés ou insaturés,
  • l'atome d'hydrogène,
  • R₁₇, R₁₉ et R₂₁, identiques ou différents, sont choisis parmi les radicaux hydrocarbonés en C₇-C₂₁, linéaires ou ramifiés, saturés ou insaturés;
  • n, p et r, identiques ou différents, sont des entiers valant de 2 à 6 ;
  • y est un entier valant de 1 à 10 ;
  • x et z, identiques ou différents, sont des entiers valant de 0 à 10 ;
  • X- est un anion simple ou complexe, organique ou inorganique.

The quaternary ammonium salts with a charge that is not included in a cycle and without an ester function are, for example:

• those who have the following general formula (I):
  
  in which the radicals R ₁ to R ₄ , which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched aliphatic radical containing from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or an aromatic radical such as C ₆ -C ₃₀ aryl or alkyl (C ₁ -C ₆ ) aryl (C ₆ -C ₃₀ ). The aliphatic radicals may contain heteroatoms such as especially oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur, halogens. The aliphatic radicals are for example chosen from alkyl, alkoxy, polyoxy (C ₂ -C ₆₎ alkylene, alkylamide, (C ₁₂ -C ₂₂₎ alkyl amido (C ₂ -C ₆₎ alkyl (C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ ) acetate, hydroxyalkyl, having from about 1 to 30 carbon atoms; X is an anion chosen from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (C ₁ -C ₆ ) alkyl sulphates, (C ₁ -C ₆ ) alkyl or (C ₁ -C ₆ ) alkylaryl (C ₆ -C ₆ ) C ₃₀ ) -sulfonates, Preferably R ₁ and R ₂ denote a C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl, or a C ₁ -C ₄ hydroxyalkyl.
• the quaternary ammonium salts of imidazoline, such as for example that of formula (II) below:
  
  wherein R ₆ represents an alkenyl or alkyl radical comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, R ₇ represents an alkyl radical C ₁ -C ₆ alkyl or hydroxy C ₁ -C ₆ alkyl, X- is an anion selected from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkyl (C ₁ -C ₆ ) sulphates, alkyl (C ₁ -C ₆ ) - or alkyl (C ₁ -C ₆ ) aryl (C ₆ -C ₃₀ ) sulphonates, x denoting an integer ranging from 0 to 100, preferably from 0 to 20. As a compound of formula (II), mention may be made of Quatemium-56.
• the quaternary diammonium salts of formula (III):
  
  in which R ₉ denotes an aliphatic radical containing about 16 to 30 carbon atoms, R ₁₀ , R ₁₁ , R ₁₂ , R ₁₃ and R ₁₄ , which may be identical or different, are chosen from hydrogen or an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and X-is an anion selected from the group of halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates and methylsulfates. Quaternary diammonium salts of formula (III) that are suitable for the invention include, in particular, propane diammonium chloride.
• quaternary ammonium salts containing at least one ester function, for example those of formula (IV) below:
  
  in which :
  • R ₁₅ is selected from alkyl C ₁ -C ₆ hydroxyalkyl or dihydroxyalkyl radicals C ₁ -C ₆ alkyl;
  • R ₁₆ is chosen from:
  • The radical
    
  • R ₂₀ hydrocarbon radicals in C ₁ -C ₂₂ linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated,
  • the hydrogen atom,
  • R ₁₈ is selected from:
  • The radical
    
  • linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C ₁ -C ₆ hydrocarbon radicals R ₂₂ ,
  • the hydrogen atom,
  • R ₁₇ , R ₁₉ and R ₂₁ , which are identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C ₇ -C ₂₁ hydrocarbon radicals;
  • n, p and r, which may be identical or different, are integers ranging from 2 to 6;
  • y is an integer from 1 to 10;
  • x and z, which are identical or different, are integers ranging from 0 to 10;
  • X- is a simple or complex anion, organic or inorganic.

The alkyl radicals R ₁₅ may be linear or branched and more particularly linear.

Preferably R ₁₅ denotes a methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl or dihydroxypropyl radical and more particularly a methyl or ethyl radical.

Advantageously, the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 10.

When R ₁₆ is a radical R ₂₀ hydrocarbon, it may be long and contain from 12 to 22 carbon atoms or short and have from 1 to 3 carbon atoms.

When R ₁₈ is a hydrocarbon radical R ₂₂ , it preferably has 1 to 3 carbon atoms.

Preferably, x and z, identical or different, are 0 or 1.

Advantageously, y is 1.

Preferably, n, p and r, identical or different, are 2 or 3 and even more particularly are equal to 2.

The anion is preferably a halide. (chloride, bromide or iodide) or an alkylsulfate more particularly methylsulfate. However, it is possible to use methanesulphonate, phosphate, nitrate, tosylate, an anion derived from an organic acid such as acetate or lactate or any other anion compatible with ammonium with an ester function.

The X- anion is even more particularly chloride or methylsulfate.

Advantageously, the hydrocarbon radicals are linear.

Among the quaternary ammonium salts of formula (I), tetraalkylammonium chlorides, for example alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides, in which the alkyl radical contains approximately from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, are particularly preferred. behenyltrimethylammonium, cetyltrimethylammonium, benzyldimethylstearylammonium chlorides or else palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride or stearamido-propyldimethyl (myristylacetate) ammonium chloride sold under the name "Ceraphyl 70" by Van Dyk. .

It is also possible to use the ammonium salts containing at least one ester function described in the patent US Patent 4874554 .

Quaternary ammonium salts of formula (IV) that are suitable for use in the invention include, for example, dipalmitoylethyl hydroxyethylmethyl methosulphate, marketed by STEPAN under the reference STEPANQUAT GA 90.

The preferred cationic molecules that may be used in the composition according to the invention are the compounds of formula (I) or of formula (IV).

Cetyl trimethyl ammonium chloride is preferred.

As explained above, the cationic molecule (s) may also be chosen from cationic proteins.

The cationic cosmetic agent or agents advantageously represent from 0.1% to 10% by weight of the total weight of the composition, provided that if the cationic cosmetic agent is a tetraalkylammonium salt containing only one fatty chain, it is present at a content greater than or equal to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the cationic cosmetic agent (s) used in the invention, whatever their nature, represent from 1 to 10%, better still from 1 to 5%, by weight of the total weight of the composition.

According to a particular embodiment, when the cationic cosmetic agent (s) comprise two fatty chains, it has no amide function.

By way of example, mention may be made, as a cosmetic agent useful in the process of the invention, of cationic polymers which are non-coloring and which are not derived from a sugar or a silicone, and which have a cationic charge density greater than 1.5. meq / g.

The charge density can be determined according to the Kjedahl method. It is generally measured at a pH of the order of 3 to 9.

Preferably, the cationic polymers used in the present invention have a cationic charge density of less than 10 meq / g.

By "cationic polymer" is meant any polymer containing cationic groups and / or groups ionizable cationic groups.

By dye is meant not having in its chromophore structure having a maximum of absorption in the visible.

By not derived from a sugar or a silicone, one understands not including in its structure of sugar unit (mono, oligo or polysaccharide) or of unit containing one or more silicon atoms.

The cationic polymers that may be used in accordance with the present invention may be chosen from all those already known per se as improving the cosmetic properties of the hair treated with detergent compositions, namely in particular those described in the patent application. EP-A-0337354 and in French patent applications FR-A-2270846 , 2383660 , 2598611 , 2470596 and 2519863 .

The preferred cationic polymers are chosen from those containing units containing primary, secondary, tertiary and / or quaternary amine groups that may either be part of the main polymer chain or may be carried by a lateral substituent directly connected thereto.

The cationic polymers used have a weight average molecular weight of greater than 10 ⁵ , preferably greater than 10 ⁶ and more preferably 10 ^{6 to} 10 ⁸ .

Preferably, the cationic polymers are not polyurethanes.

Among the cationic polymers that may be used according to the invention, mention may be made more particularly of polymers of the polyamine, polyaminoamide and quaternary polyammonium type. These are known products.

1. (1) les homopolymères ou copolymères dérivés d'esters ou d'amides acryliques ou méthacryliques et comportant au moins un des motifs de formules suivantes:
   
   
   dans lesquelles:
   • R₁ et R₂, identiques ou différents, représentent un atome d'hydrogène ou un groupe alkyle ayant de 1 à 6 atomes de carbone, et de préférence un groupe méthyle ou éthyle ;
   • R₃, identiques ou différents, désignent un atome d'hydrogène ou un groupe CH₃ ;
   • les symboles A, identiques ou différents, représentent un groupe alkyle, linéaire ou ramifié, comportant de 1 à 6 atomes de carbone, de préférence 2 ou 3 atomes de carbone, ou un groupe hydroxyalkyle comportant de 1 à 4 atomes de carbone ;
   • R₄, R₅, R₆, identiques ou différents, représentent un groupe alkyle ayant de 1 à 18 atomes de carbone ou un groupe benzyle, et de préférence un groupe alkyle ayant de 1 à 6 atomes de carbone ;
   • X désigne un anion dérivé d'un acide minéral ou organique tel qu'un anion méthosulfate ou un halogénure comme le chlorure ou le bromure.
     Les copolymères de la famille (1) peuvent contenir en outre un ou plusieurs motifs dérivant de comonomères pouvant être choisis dans la famille des acrylamides, méthacrylamides, diacétone-acrylamides, acrylamides et méthacrylamides substitués sur l'atome d'azote par des groupes alkyle inférieur (C₁-C₄), des groupes dérivés des acides acryliques ou méthacryliques ou de leurs esters, de vinyllactames tels que la vinylpyrrolidone ou le vinylcaprolactame, d'esters vinyliques.
     Ainsi, parmi ces copolymères de la famille (1), on peut citer :
     • les copolymères d'acrylamide et de méthacrylate de diméthylaminoéthyle quaternisé au sulfate de diméthyle ou avec un halogénure de diméthyle,
     • les copolymères d'acrylamide et de chlorure de méthacryloyloxyéthyltriméthyl-ammonium décrits, par exemple, dans la demande de brevet EP-A-080976 ,
     • les copolymères d'acrylamide et de méthosulfate de méthacryloyloxyéthyl-triméthylammonium,
     • les copolymères vinylpyrrolidone/acrylate ou méthacrylate de dialkylaminoalkyle quaternisés ou non. Ces polymères sont décrits en détail dans les brevets français 2077143 et 2393573 ,
     • les terpolymères méthacrylate de diméthylaminoéthyle/ vinylcaprolactame/vinylpyrrolidone,
     • les copolymères vinylpyrrolidone/méthacrylamidopropyl-di-méthylamine,
     • les copolymères vinylpyrrolidone/méthacrylamide de diméthylaminopropyle quaternisé, et
     • les polymères réticulés de sels de méthacryloyloxyalkyl(C₁-C₄) trialkyl(C₁-C₄)ammonium tels que les polymères obtenus par homopolymérisation du diméthylaminoéthylméthacrylate quaternisé par le chlorure de méthyle, ou par copolymérisation de l'acrylamide avec le diméthylaminoéthylméthacrylate quaternisé par le chlorure de méthyle, l'homo ou la copolymérisation étant suivie d'une réticulation par un composé à insaturation oléfinique, en particulier le méthylène bis acrylamide. On peut plus particulièrement utiliser un copolymère réticulé acrylamide/chlorure de méthacryloyloxyéthyl triméthylammonium (20/80 en poids) sous forme de dispersion contenant 50% en poids dudit copolymère dans de l'huile minérale. Cette dispersion est commercialisée sous le nom de « SALCARE^® SC 92 » par la Société CIBA. On peut également utiliser un homopolymère réticulé du chlorure de méthacryloyloxyéthyl triméthylammonium contenant environ 50 % en poids de l'homopolymère dans de l'huile minérale ou dans un ester liquide. Ces dispersions sont commercialisées sous les noms de « SALCARE^® SC 95 » et « SALCARE^® SC 96 » par la Société CIBA.
2. (2) Les polymères constitués de motifs pipérazinyle et de groupes divalents alkylène ou hydroxyalkylène à chaînes droites ou ramifiées, éventuellement interrompues par des atomes d'oxygène, de soufre, d'azote ou par des cycles aromatiques ou hétérocycliques, ainsi que les produits d'oxydation et/ou de quaternisation de ces polymères. De tels polymères sont notamment décrits dans les brevets français 2 162 025 et 2 280 361 .
3. (3) Les polyaminoamides solubles dans l'eau, préparés en particulier par polycondensation d'un composé acide avec une polyamine ; ces polyaminoamides peuvent être réticulés par une épihalohydrine, un diépoxyde, un dianhydride, un dianhydride non saturé, un dérivé bis-insaturé, une bis-halohydrine, un bis-azétidinium, une bis-haloacyldiamine, un bis-halogénure d'alkyle ou encore par un oligomère résultant de la réaction d'un composé bifonctionnel réactif vis-à-vis d'une bis-halohydrine, d'un bis-azétidinium, d'une bis-haloacyldiamine, d'un bis-halogénure d'alkyle, d'une épilhalohydrine, d'un diépoxyde ou d'un dérivé bis-insaturé ; l'agent réticulant étant utilisé dans des proportions allant de 0,025 à 0,35 mole par groupement amine du polyaminoamide ; ces polyaminoamides peuvent être alkylés ou s'ils comportent une ou plusieurs fonctions amines tertiaires, quaternisées. De tels polymères sont notamment décrits dans les brevets français 2252840 et 2368508 .
4. (4) Les dérivés de polyaminoamides résultant de la condensation de polyalkylènes-polyamines avec des acides polycarboxyliques, suivie d'une alkylation par des agents bifonctionnels. On peut citer, par exemple, les polymères acide adipique/dialkylaminohydroxyalkyl-dialkylènetriamine dans lesquels le groupe alkyle comporte de 1 à 4 atomes de carbone et désigne de préférence un groupe méthyle, éthyle, propyle, et le groupe alkylène comporte de 1 à 4 atomes de carbone, et désigne de préférence le groupe éthylène. De tels polymères sont notamment décrits dans le brevet français 1 583 363 .
   Parmi ces dérivés, on peut citer plus particulièrement les polymères acide adipique/diméthylaminohydroxypropyl-diéthylène-triamine.
5. (5) Les polymères obtenus par réaction d'une polyalkylène-polyamine comportant deux groupements amine primaire et au moins un groupement amine secondaire, avec un acide dicarboxylique choisi parmi l'acide diglycolique et les acides dicarboxyliques aliphatiques saturés ayant de 3 à 8 atomes de carbone. Le rapport molaire entre la polyalkylène-polylamine et l'acide dicarboxylique étant compris entre 0,8 : 1 et 1,4 : 1 ; le polyaminoamide en résultant étant amené à réagir avec l'épichlorhydrine dans un rapport molaire d'épichlorhydrine par rapport au groupement amine secondaire du polyaminoamide, compris entre 0,5 : 1 et 1,8 : 1. De tels polymères sont notamment décrits dans les brevets américains 3 227 615 et 2 961 347.
6. (6) Les cyclopolymères d'alkyldiallylamine ou de dialkyldiallylammonium tels que les homopolymères ou copolymères comportant, comme constituant principal de la chaîne, des motifs répondant aux formules (Ia) ou (Ib) :
   
   
   • dans lesquelles k et t sont égaux à 0 ou 1, la somme k + t étant égale à 1 ; R₁₂ désigne un atome drhydrogène ou un groupe méthyle ; R₁₀ et R₁₁ indépendamment l'un de l'autre, désignent un groupement alkyle ayant de 1 à 6 atomes de carbone, un groupement hydroxyalkyle dans lequel le groupement alkyle a de préférence 1 à 5 atomes de carbone, un groupement amidoalkyle inférieur (C₁-C₄), ou alors R₁₀ et R₁₁ peuvent désigner conjointement avec l'atome d'azote auquel ils sont rattachés, des groupements hétérocycliques, tels que pipéridinyle ou morpholinyle ; Y^- est un anion tel que bromure, chlorure, acétate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulfite, sulfate, phosphate. Ces polymères sont notamment décrits dans le brevet français 2 080 759 et dans son certificat d'addition 2 190 406 .
   • R₁₀ et R₁₁, indépendamment l'un de l'autre, désignent de préférence un groupement alkyle ayant de 1 à 4 atomes de carbone.
     Parmi les polymères définis ci-dessus, on peut citer plus particulièrement l'homopolymère de diméthyldiallyl-ammonium notamment le chlorure de diméthyldiallylammonium vendu sous la dénomination "MERQUAT^® 100" par la société NALCO (et ses homologues de faibles masses moléculaires moyenne en poids), les copolymères de chlorure de diallyldiméthylammonium et d'acrylamide commercialisés sous la dénomination "MERQUAT^® 550" et les copolymères de diallyldiméthylammonium et d'acide acrylique tels que le "MERQUAT^® 295" commercialisé par la société NALCO.
7. (7) Les polymères de diammonium quaternaire par exemple ceux contenant des motifs récurrents répondant à la formule (II) suivant :
   
   dans laquelle :
   • R₁₃, R₁₄, R₁₅ et R₁₆, identiques ou différents, représentent des groupes aliphatiques, alicycliques ou arylaliphatiques contenant de 1 à 20 atomes de carbone ou des groupes hydroxyalkylaliphatiques inférieurs, ou bien R₁₃, R₁₄, R₁₅ et R₁₆, ensemble ou séparément, constituent avec les atomes d'azote auxquels ils sont rattachés des hétérocycles contenant éventuellement un second hétéroatome autre que l'azote, ou bien R₁₃, R₁₄, R₁₅ et R₁₆ représentent un groupe alkyle en C₁-C₆, linéaire ou ramifié, substitué par un groupement nitrile, ester, acyle, amide ou -CO-O-R₁₇-E ou -CO-NH-R₁₇-E où R₁₇ est un groupe alkylène et E un groupement ammonium quaternaire ;
   • A₁ et B₁ représentent des groupements polyméthyléniques contenant de 2 à 20 atomes de carbone, pouvant être linéaires ou ramifiés, saturés ou insaturés, et pouvant contenir, liés à ou intercalés dans la chaîne principale, un ou plusieurs cycles aromatiques, ou un ou plusieurs atomes d'oxygène, de soufre ou des groupements sulfoxyde, sulfone, disulfure, amino, alkylamino, hydroxyle; ammonium quaternaire, uréido, amide ou ester, et
   • X^- désigne un anion dérivé d'un acide minéral ou organique tel que acétate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulfite, sulfate, phosphate, méthosulfate ou un halogénure comme le chlorure ou le bromure,
   • A₁, R₁₃ et R₁₅ peuvent former avec les deux atomes d'azote auxquels ils sont rattachés un cycle pipérazinique ; en outre, si A₁ désigne un groupe alkylène ou hydroxyalkylène linéaire ou ramifié, saturé ou insaturé, B₁ peut également désigner un groupement :
     
             -(CH₂)_n-CO-E'-OC-(CH₂)_n-
     
     dans lequel E' désigne :
     1. a) un reste de glycol de formule -O-Z-O-, où Z désigne un groupe hydrocarboné linéaire ou ramifié, ou un groupement répondant à l'une des formules suivantes :
        
                -(CH₂-CH₂-O)_x-CH₂-CH₂-
        
                -[CH₂-CH(CH₃)-O]_y-CH₂-CH(CH₃)-
        
        où x et y désignent un nombre entier de 1 à 4, représentant un degré de polymérisation défini et unique ou un nombre quelconque de 1 à 4 représentant un degré de polymérisation moyen ;
     2. b) un reste de diamine bis-secondaire tel qu'un dérivé de pipérazine ;
     3. c) un reste de diamine bis-primaire de formule -NH-Y-NH-, où Y désigne un groupe hydrocarboné linéaire ou ramifié, ou bien le groupe divalent -CH₂-CH₂-S-S-CH₂-CH₂- ;
     4. d) un groupement uréylène de formule -NH-CO-NH-.
   
   De préférence, X^- est un anion tel que halogénure et notamment le chlorure ou le bromure.
   Des polymères de ce type sont notamment décrits dans les brevets français 2 320 330 , 2 270 846 , 2 316 271 , 2 336 434 et 2 413 907 et les brevets US 2 273 780 , 2 375 853 , 2 388 614 , 2 454 547 , 3 206 462 , 2 261 002 , 2 271 378 , 3 874 870 , 4 001 432 , 3 929 990 , 3 966 904 , 4 005 193 , 4 025 617 , 4 025 627 , 4 025 653 , 4 026 945 et 4 027 020 .
   On peut utiliser plus particulièrement les polymères qui sont constitués de motifs récurrents répondant à la formule :
   
   dans laquelle R₁₃, R₁₄, R₁₅ et R₁₆, identiques ou différents, désignent un groupe alkyle ou hydroxyalkyle ayant de 1 à 4 atomes de carbone environ, n et p sont des nombres entiers variant de 2 à 20 environ et, X^- est un anion dérivé d'un acide minéral ou organique tel que défini ci-dessus.
   Un composé de formule (III) particulièrement préféré est celui pour lequel R₁₃, R₁₄, R₁₅ et R₁₆, représentent un radical méthyle et n = 3, p = 6 et X = Cl, dénommé Hexadimethrine chloride selon la nomenclature INCl (CTFA).
8. (8) Les polymères de polyammonium quaternaire constitués de motifs de formule (IV) :
   
   dans laquelle :
   • R₁₈, R₁₉, R₂₀ et R₂₁, identiques ou différents, représentent un atome d'hydrogène ou un groupe méthyle, éthyle, propyle, β-hydroxyéthyle, β-hydroxypropyle ou -CH₂CH₂(OCH₂CH₂)_pOH, où p est égal à 0 ou à un nombre entier compris entre 1 et 6, sous réserve que R₁₈, R₁₉, R₂₀ et R₂₁ ne représentent pas simultanément un atome d'hydrogène,
   • r et s, identiques ou différents, sont des nombres entiers compris entre 1 et 6,
   • q est égal à 0 ou à un nombre entier compris entre 1 et 34,
   • X^- désigne un anion tel qu'un halogénure,
   • A désigne un radical d'un dihalogénure ou représente de préférence -CH₂-CH₂-O-CH₂-CH₂-.
     De tels composés sont notamment décrits dans la demande de brevet EP-A-122 324 .
9. (9) Les polymères quaternaires de vinylpyrrolidone et de vinylimidazole tels que par exemple les produits commercialisés sous les dénominations Luviquat^® FC 905, FC 550 et FC 370 par la société B.A.S.F.

The polymers of the polyamine, polyaminoamide and quaternary polyammonium type, which can be used in the composition of the present invention, are those described in French Pat ^. 2505348 and 2542997 . Among these polymers, mention may be made of:

1. (1) homopolymers or copolymers derived from acrylic or methacrylic esters or amides and comprising at least one of the following units of formulas:
   
   
   in which:
   • R ₁ and R ₂ , which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, and preferably a methyl or ethyl group;
   • R ₃ , which may be identical or different, denote a hydrogen atom or a CH ₃ group;
   • the symbols A, identical or different, represent a linear or branched alkyl group containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 or 3 carbon atoms, or a hydroxyalkyl group containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms;
   • R ₄ , R ₅ , R ₆ , which may be identical or different, represent an alkyl group having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms or a benzyl group, and preferably an alkyl group having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms;
   • X denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid such as a methosulphate anion or a halide such as chloride or bromide.
     The copolymers of family (1) may also contain one or more units derived from comonomers which may be chosen from the family of acrylamides, methacrylamides, diacetone-acrylamides, acrylamides and methacrylamides substituted on the nitrogen atom by lower alkyl groups. (C ₁ -C ₄ ), groups derivatives of acrylic or methacrylic acids or their esters, vinyllactams such as vinylpyrrolidone or vinylcaprolactam, vinyl esters.
     Thus, among these copolymers of the family (1), mention may be made of:
     • copolymers of acrylamide and of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with dimethyl sulphate or with a dimethyl halide,
     • the copolymers of acrylamide and methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride described, for example, in the patent application EP-A-080976 ,
     • copolymers of acrylamide and methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium methosulphate,
     • the vinylpyrrolidone / dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate or methacrylate copolymers quaternized or otherwise. These polymers are described in detail in French patents 2077143 and 2393573 ,
     • dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate / vinylcaprolactam / vinylpyrrolidone terpolymers,
     • vinylpyrrolidone / methacrylamidopropyl-dimethylamine copolymers,
     • the vinylpyrrolidone / quaternized dimethylaminopropyl methacrylamide copolymers, and
     • crosslinked polymers of methacryloyloxyalkyl (C ₁ -C ₄ ) trialkyl (C ₁ -C ₄ ) ammonium salts, such as the polymers obtained by homopolymerization of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, or by copolymerization of acrylamide with quaternized dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate by methyl chloride, the homo or copolymerization being followed by crosslinking with an olefinically unsaturated compound, in particular methylenebisacrylamide. It is more particularly possible to use a crosslinked acrylamide / methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymer (20/80 by weight) in the form of a dispersion containing 50% by weight of said copolymer in mineral oil. This dispersion is sold under the name "Salcare ^® SC 92" by the company Ciba. It is also possible to use a crosslinked homopolymer of methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride containing about 50% by weight of the homopolymer in mineral oil or in a liquid ester. These dispersions are sold under the names "Salcare ^® SC 95" and "Salcare ^® SC 96" by the company Ciba.
2. (2) Polymers consisting of piperazinyl units and straight or branched chain alkylene or hydroxyalkylene divalent groups, optionally interrupted by oxygen, sulfur, nitrogen or aromatic or heterocyclic rings, as well as oxidation and / or quaternization of these polymers. Such polymers are in particular described in French patents 2,162,025 and 2,280,361 .
3. (3) water-soluble polyaminoamides prepared in particular by polycondensation of an acidic compound with a polyamine; these polyaminoamides may be crosslinked by an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide, a dianhydride, an unsaturated dianhydride, a bis-unsaturated derivative, a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bis-haloacyldiamine, a bis-alkyl halide or else by an oligomer resulting from the reaction of a bifunctional compound which is reactive with a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bis-haloacyldiamine, an alkyl bis-halogenide, epilhalohydrin, diepoxide or bis-unsaturated derivative; the crosslinking agent being used in proportions ranging from 0.025 to 0.35 moles per amine group of the polyaminoamide; these polyaminoamides can be alkylated or if they comprise one or more tertiary amine functional groups, quaternized. Such polymers are in particular described in French patents 2252840 and 2368508 .
4. (4) Polyamino amide derivatives resulting from the condensation of polyalkylene polyamines with polycarboxylic acids followed by alkylation with difunctional agents. Mention may be made, for example, of adipic acid / dialkylaminohydroxyalkyl-dialkylenetriamine polymers in which the alkyl group contains from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and preferably denotes a methyl, ethyl or propyl group, and the alkylene group contains from 1 to 4 atoms. carbon, and preferably denotes the ethylene group. Such polymers are described in particular in the French patent 1,583,363 .
   Among these derivatives, there may be mentioned more particularly the adipic acid / dimethylaminohydroxypropyl-diethylene triamine polymers.
5. (5) The polymers obtained by reacting a polyalkylene polyamine comprising two primary amine groups and at least one secondary amine group, with a dicarboxylic acid chosen from diglycolic acid and saturated aliphatic dicarboxylic acids having from 3 to 8 carbon atoms. carbon. The molar ratio between the polyalkylene-polylamine and the dicarboxylic acid being between 0.8: 1 and 1.4: 1; the polyaminoamide resulting therefrom being reacted with epichlorohydrin in a molar ratio of epichlorohydrin with respect to the secondary amine group of the polyaminoamide, of between 0.5: 1 and 1.8: 1. Such polymers are described in particular in US Pat. U.S. Patents 3,227,615 and 2,961,347.
6. (6) Alkyldiallylamine or dialkyldiallylammonium cyclopolymers such as homopolymers or copolymers comprising, as main constituent of the chain, units corresponding to formulas (Ia) or (Ib):
   
   
   • in which k and t are equal to 0 or 1, the sum k + t being equal to 1; R ₁₂ denotes a hydrogen atom or a methyl group; R ₁₀ and R _11, independently of each other, denote an alkyl group having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a hydroxyalkyl group in which the alkyl group preferably has 1 to 5 carbon atoms, a lower amidoalkyl group ( C ₁ -C ₄ ), or else R ₁₀ and R ₁₁ may designate, together with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, heterocyclic groups, such as piperidinyl or morpholinyl; Y ^- is an anion such as bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulfite, sulfate, phosphate. These polymers are in particular described in the French patent 2,080,759 and in his certificate of addition 2,190,406 .
   • R ₁₀ and R ₁₁ , independently of one another, preferably denote an alkyl group having 1 to 4 carbon atoms.
     Among the polymers defined above, mention may be made more particularly the homopolymer of dimethyldiallylammonium including dimethyldiallylammonium chloride sold under the name "Merquat ^® 100" by the company Nalco (and its homologues of low average molecular weights) , diallyldimethylammonium chloride copolymers and acrylamide sold under the name "Merquat ^® 550" and copolymers of diallyldimethylammonium and acrylic acid such as "Merquat ^® 295" sold by the company Nalco.
7. (7) Quaternary diammonium polymers, for example those containing recurring units corresponding to the following formula (II):
   
   in which :
   • R ₁₃ , R ₁₄ , R ₁₅ and R ₁₆ , which may be identical or different, represent aliphatic, alicyclic or arylaliphatic groups containing from 1 to 20 carbon atoms or lower hydroxyalkylaliphatic groups, or else R ₁₃ , R ₁₄ , R ₁₅ and R ₁₆ , together or separately, constitute, with the nitrogen atoms to which they are attached, heterocycles optionally containing a second heteroatom other than nitrogen, or else R ₁₃ , R ₁₄ , R ₁₅ and R ₁₆ represent a C ₁ -alkyl group; -C ₆ , linear or branched, substituted with a nitrile, ester, acyl, amide or -CO-OR ₁₇ -E or -CO-NH-R ₁₇ -E group where R ₁₇ is an alkylene group and E a quaternary ammonium group ;
   • A ₁ and B ₁ represent polymethylene groups containing from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, which may be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and may contain, bound to or intercalated in the main chain, one or more aromatic rings, or one or several oxygen, sulfur or sulfoxide, sulfone, disulfide, amino, alkylamino, hydroxyl groups; quaternary ammonium, ureido, amide or ester, and
   • X ^- denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid such as acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulphite, sulfate, phosphate, methosulphate or a halide such as chloride or bromide,
   • A ₁ , R ₁₃ and R ₁₅ can form with the two nitrogen atoms to which they are attached a piperazine ring; in addition, if A ₁ denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkylene or hydroxyalkylene group, B ₁ can also denote a group:
     
     - (CH ₂ ) _n -CO-E'-OC- (CH ₂ ) _n -
     
     in which E 'designates:
     1. a) a glycol residue of formula -OZO-, where Z denotes a linear or branched hydrocarbon group, or a group corresponding to one of the following formulas:
        
        - (CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O) _x -CH ₂ -CH ₂ -
        
        - [CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) -O] _y -CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) -
        
        where x and y denote an integer from 1 to 4, representing a defined and unique degree of polymerization or any number from 1 to 4 representing an average degree of polymerization;
     2. b) a bis-secondary diamine residue such as a piperazine derivative;
     3. c) a bis-primary diamine residue of formula -NH-Y-NH-, where Y denotes a linear or branched hydrocarbon group, or the divalent group -CH ₂ -CH ₂ -SS-CH ₂ -CH ₂ -;
     4. d) a ureylene group of formula -NH-CO-NH-.
   
   Preferably, X ^- is an anion such as halide and especially chloride or bromide.
   Polymers of this type are in particular described in French patents 2 320 330 , 2,270,846 , 2,316,271 , 2,336,434 and 2,413,907 and patents US 2,273,780 , 2,375,853 , 2,388,614 , 2,454,547 , 3,206,462 , 2,261,002 , 2,271,378 , 3,874,870 , 4,001,432 , 3,929,990 , 3,966,904 , 4,005,193 , 4,025,617 , 4,025,627 , 4,025,653 , 4,026,945 and 4,027,020 .
   It is more particularly possible to use polymers which consist of recurring units corresponding to the formula:
   
   in which R ₁₃ , R ₁₄ , R ₁₅ and R ₁₆ , which are identical or different, denote an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl group having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, n and p are integers ranging from 2 to approximately 20 and, X ^- is an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid as defined above.
   A particularly preferred compound of formula (III) is that for which R ₁₃ , R ₁₄ , R ₁₅ and R ₁₆ represent a methyl radical and n = 3, p = 6 and X = Cl, called Hexadimethrine chloride according to the INCl nomenclature ( CTFA).
8. (8) Quaternary polyammonium polymers consisting of units of formula (IV):
   
   in which :
   • R ₁₈ , R ₁₉ , R ₂₀ and R ₂₁ , which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl, ethyl, propyl, β-hydroxyethyl, β-hydroxypropyl or -CH ₂ CH ₂ (OCH ₂ CH ₂ ) group; _p OH, where p is 0 or an integer between 1 and 6, with the proviso that R ₁₈ , R ₁₉ , R ₂₀ and R ₂₁ do not simultaneously represent a hydrogen atom,
   • r and s, which are identical or different, are integers between 1 and 6,
   • q is 0 or an integer from 1 to 34,
   • X ^- denotes an anion such as a halide,
   • A denotes a radical of a dihalide or is preferably -CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O-CH ₂ -CH ₂ -.
     Such compounds are in particular described in the patent application EP-A-122,324 .
9. (9) Quaternary polymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of vinylimidazole, such as for example the products sold under the names Luviquat ^® FC 905, FC 550 and FC 370 by BASF

Other cationic polymers that may be used in the context of the invention are polyalkyleneimines, in particular polyethyleneimines, polymers containing vinylpyridine or vinylpyridinium units, condensates of polyamines and of epichlorohydrin, and quaternary polyureylenes.

According to a preferred variant, the cationic polymers that can be used according to the invention have a permanent cationic charge corresponding to the presence of units comprising quaternary amine groups.

Preferably, the cationic polymers of the invention are chosen from dialkyldiallylammonium cyclopolymers and quaternary diammonium polymers of formula (II).

The cationic polymer or polymers advantageously represent from 0.1 to 10%, better still from 0.2 to 8%, by weight of the total weight of the composition.

The cosmetic treatment step may be carried out from a composition in the form of a lotion, thickened or not, a cream, a gel, or any other suitable form.

The compositions used are generally aqueous compositions which may contain ingredients usually used in cosmetic compositions, such as solvents, surfactants, thickeners, preserving agents, perfumes or any other additive used in this type of composition.

According to a particular embodiment, the method of the invention may comprise an additional final shaping step, for example a smoothing step, especially if the preceding step is a cosmetic treatment step.

The examples which follow illustrate the process of the invention used in several cosmetic hair applications.

EXAMPLE 1

Strands of hair are washed and wrung out. Pre-drying of the hair is then carried out until a drying of about 80% is obtained.

On these pre-dried bits, steam is applied with a flow rate of the order of 3 g / min, this steam application being followed by the shaping / smoothing step by means of a smoothing pliers heated to minus 100 ° C. This treatment is done with a wick on the whole of the hair.

A permanent coloring coloration of 5.64 (copper red light brown chateau from the Majirouge range) is then applied, which consists in applying to the hair fibers one or more oxidation bases and one or more well-known couplers of the coloring field. permanent, in the presence of an oxidizing agent (hydrogen peroxide).

At the same time, the above test is carried out again, but without carrying out the steaming step nor the shaping step under the preceding conditions but by smoothing with a conventional heating smoothing plier.

It is observed that the hair treated with steam are brighter and smoother than those treated only with the conventional heat straightener.

After several shampoos, there is a better tenacity of the color on the hair treated with steam.

EXAMPLE 2

On hair strands washed and dewatered, is applied by brush a reducing cream comprising thioglycolic acid salts. After the exposure time, the locks are rinsed again and then wrung out and dried at 80% with a hair dryer.

On these pre-dried fibers, steam is applied under the conditions defined above, this steam application being followed by the shaping / smoothing step by means of a smoothing pliers heated to at least 100 ° C. This treatment is done with a wick on the whole of the hair.

The fixative is then applied to the entire hair. After a period of exposure, the locks are rinsed, dewatered and dried.

At the same time, the above test is carried out again but without carrying out the steam application step or the shaping step under the conditions but smoothing with conventional heated smoothing pliers

It is observed that the hair treated with the process of the invention is brighter and smoother to the touch and visually. The hair is also much better relaxed with the method of the invention.

After several shampoos, it is found that the smoothing effect persists when it has been obtained with the method of the invention.

EXAMPLE 3

On wicks of hair washed and dewatered, one applies the care "Thermal Cement" of Kerastase which is a care product not rinsed including silicones and cationic surfactants. A pre-drying of the locks is then used until a drying of about 80% is obtained.

On these pre-dried locks, steam is applied under the conditions defined above, this application of steam being followed by the shaping / smoothing step by means of a smoothing tongs heated to at least 100 ° C.

At the same time, the above test is carried out again, but without carrying out the steaming step nor the shaping step under the preceding conditions but by smoothing with a conventional heating smoothing plier.

It is observed that the locks treated according to the process of the present invention are brighter and smoother to the touch and visually. The hair is much better smoothed.

After several shampoos, it is found that the smoothing effect persists when it has been obtained with the method of the invention.

EXAMPLE 4

On hair strands washed and wrung out, we apply a shampoo "Nutricéramide" of the mark Elsève. After the exposure time, the locks are rinsed and then wrung out and dried at 80% with a hair dryer.

On these pre-dried locks, steam is applied under the conditions defined above, this steam application being followed by the shaping / smoothing step by means of a smoothing tongs heated to at least 100 ° C.

At the same time, the above test is carried out again, but without carrying out the steaming step nor the shaping step under the preceding conditions but by smoothing with a conventional heating smoothing plier.

It is observed that the locks treated with the process of the present invention are brighter and smoother to the touch and visually. The locks are much better smoothed.

After several shampoos, it is found that the smoothing effect persists when it has been obtained with the method of the invention.

EXAMPLE 5

Strands of hair are washed and wrung out. Pre-drying of the hair is then carried out until a drying of about 80% is obtained.

On these pre-dried locks, steam is applied under the conditions defined in the present invention, this steam application being followed by the shaping / smoothing step by means of a smoothing tongs heated to at least 100 °. vs. This treatment is done with a wick on the whole of the hair.

At the same time, the above test is carried out again but without carrying out the steaming step by smoothing with a conventional heating smoothing plier without the application of steam.

It is observed that the hair treated with steam are brighter and smoother than those treated only with the conventional heat straightener.

Claims (10)

1. Method for treating hair fibres which comprises:

   the application to hair fibres of steam in an amount of less than 5 g/min,

   the shaping with a smoothing iron of these hair fibres at a temperature of between 90°C and 230°C,

   the shaping being carried out after the stage of application of steam.
2. Method according to Claim 1, in which the amount of steam used is between 1 and 4 g/min.
3. Method according to Claim 1, in which the smoothing is carried out in a single pass per treated lock of hair fibres.
4. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising a single application of steam per lock of treated hair fibres.
5. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the steam comprises one or more cosmetic active principles and/or ingredients.
6. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, additionally comprising a stage of cosmetic treatment of the hair fibres using a composition comprising one or more cosmetic active principles.
7. Method according to Claim 6, comprising, in order, the cosmetic treatment stage, followed by the stage of application of steam and then by the stage of shaping the hair fibres.
8. Method according to Claim 6, comprising, in order, the stage of application of steam, followed by the stage of shaping the hair fibres and then by the cosmetic treatment stage.
9. Method according to Claim 6, comprising, in order, the application of the steam, followed by the cosmetic treatment stage and then by the stage of shaping the hair fibres.
10. Method according to either one of Claims 6 and 7, in which the cosmetic treatment stage is selected from a stage of caring for the hair fibres, a stage of washing the fibres, a stage of shaping, a stage of permanent, semipermanent or temporary dyeing, a stage of permanent deformation using a reducing agent and optionally a fixative, and a stage of alkaline straightening with sodium hydroxide or with guanidine carbonate.