EP2236053B2 - Verfahren zur Dampfbehandlung von Haar - Google Patents
Verfahren zur Dampfbehandlung von Haar Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- EP2236053B2 EP2236053B2 EP10158979.4A EP10158979A EP2236053B2 EP 2236053 B2 EP2236053 B2 EP 2236053B2 EP 10158979 A EP10158979 A EP 10158979A EP 2236053 B2 EP2236053 B2 EP 2236053B2
- Authority
- EP
- European Patent Office
- Prior art keywords
- stage
- steam
- hair
- shaping
- les
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
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- 238000000034 method Methods 0.000 title claims description 43
- 238000011282 treatment Methods 0.000 title claims description 27
- 239000002537 cosmetic Substances 0.000 claims description 41
- 238000007493 shaping process Methods 0.000 claims description 37
- 238000009499 grossing Methods 0.000 claims description 27
- 239000000203 mixture Substances 0.000 claims description 16
- XEEYBQQBJWHFJM-UHFFFAOYSA-N Iron Chemical compound [Fe] XEEYBQQBJWHFJM-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 6
- 239000003638 chemical reducing agent Substances 0.000 claims description 3
- 238000005406 washing Methods 0.000 claims description 3
- STIAPHVBRDNOAJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N carbamimidoylazanium;carbonate Chemical compound NC(N)=N.NC(N)=N.OC(O)=O STIAPHVBRDNOAJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
- 239000000834 fixative Substances 0.000 claims description 2
- 239000004615 ingredient Substances 0.000 claims description 2
- HEMHJVSKTPXQMS-UHFFFAOYSA-M Sodium hydroxide Chemical compound [OH-].[Na+] HEMHJVSKTPXQMS-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 claims 3
- 238000004043 dyeing Methods 0.000 claims 1
- 229910052742 iron Inorganic materials 0.000 claims 1
- 239000000835 fiber Substances 0.000 description 39
- 125000000217 alkyl group Chemical group 0.000 description 38
- -1 aliphatic radical Chemical class 0.000 description 32
- 229920000642 polymer Polymers 0.000 description 26
- 125000004432 carbon atom Chemical group C* 0.000 description 25
- 150000001450 anions Chemical class 0.000 description 24
- 125000004429 atom Chemical group 0.000 description 24
- 150000002148 esters Chemical group 0.000 description 17
- 150000003254 radicals Chemical class 0.000 description 17
- 125000002091 cationic group Chemical group 0.000 description 16
- 229920001577 copolymer Polymers 0.000 description 14
- HRPVXLWXLXDGHG-UHFFFAOYSA-N Acrylamide Chemical compound NC(=O)C=C HRPVXLWXLXDGHG-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 12
- WHNWPMSKXPGLAX-UHFFFAOYSA-N N-Vinyl-2-pyrrolidone Chemical compound C=CN1CCCC1=O WHNWPMSKXPGLAX-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 12
- 229920006317 cationic polymer Polymers 0.000 description 12
- IJGRMHOSHXDMSA-UHFFFAOYSA-N Atomic nitrogen Chemical compound N#N IJGRMHOSHXDMSA-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 11
- 229910019142 PO4 Inorganic materials 0.000 description 11
- 235000021317 phosphate Nutrition 0.000 description 11
- VEXZGXHMUGYJMC-UHFFFAOYSA-M Chloride anion Chemical compound [Cl-] VEXZGXHMUGYJMC-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 10
- CPELXLSAUQHCOX-UHFFFAOYSA-M Bromide Chemical compound [Br-] CPELXLSAUQHCOX-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 9
- 229920000768 polyamine Polymers 0.000 description 9
- QGZKDVFQNNGYKY-UHFFFAOYSA-O Ammonium Chemical compound [NH4+] QGZKDVFQNNGYKY-UHFFFAOYSA-O 0.000 description 8
- 125000003118 aryl group Chemical group 0.000 description 8
- 239000003795 chemical substances by application Substances 0.000 description 8
- 238000004040 coloring Methods 0.000 description 8
- 150000004820 halides Chemical class 0.000 description 8
- 125000002496 methyl group Chemical group [H]C([H])([H])* 0.000 description 8
- QTBSBXVTEAMEQO-UHFFFAOYSA-M Acetate Chemical compound CC([O-])=O QTBSBXVTEAMEQO-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 7
- 125000004435 hydrogen atom Chemical group [H]* 0.000 description 7
- 150000003242 quaternary ammonium salts Chemical class 0.000 description 7
- 239000004215 Carbon black (E152) Substances 0.000 description 6
- WNLRTRBMVRJNCN-UHFFFAOYSA-N adipic acid Chemical compound OC(=O)CCCCC(O)=O WNLRTRBMVRJNCN-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 6
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- 150000001412 amines Chemical class 0.000 description 6
- 150000001875 compounds Chemical class 0.000 description 6
- 239000006185 dispersion Substances 0.000 description 6
- 238000001035 drying Methods 0.000 description 6
- 229930195733 hydrocarbon Natural products 0.000 description 6
- 150000003013 phosphoric acid derivatives Chemical class 0.000 description 6
- QAOWNCQODCNURD-UHFFFAOYSA-L Sulfate Chemical compound [O-]S([O-])(=O)=O QAOWNCQODCNURD-UHFFFAOYSA-L 0.000 description 5
- NINIDFKCEFEMDL-UHFFFAOYSA-N Sulfur Chemical compound [S] NINIDFKCEFEMDL-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 5
- 125000002947 alkylene group Chemical group 0.000 description 5
- 230000000694 effects Effects 0.000 description 5
- 229920001519 homopolymer Polymers 0.000 description 5
- 125000002768 hydroxyalkyl group Chemical group 0.000 description 5
- 125000004433 nitrogen atom Chemical group N* 0.000 description 5
- 238000007254 oxidation reaction Methods 0.000 description 5
- NBIIXXVUZAFLBC-UHFFFAOYSA-K phosphate Chemical compound [O-]P([O-])([O-])=O NBIIXXVUZAFLBC-UHFFFAOYSA-K 0.000 description 5
- 239000010452 phosphate Substances 0.000 description 5
- 229920001296 polysiloxane Polymers 0.000 description 5
- 229920006395 saturated elastomer Polymers 0.000 description 5
- JKNCOURZONDCGV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-(dimethylamino)ethyl 2-methylprop-2-enoate Chemical compound CN(C)CCOC(=O)C(C)=C JKNCOURZONDCGV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 4
- NIXOWILDQLNWCW-UHFFFAOYSA-N Acrylic acid Chemical compound OC(=O)C=C NIXOWILDQLNWCW-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 4
- LSNNMFCWUKXFEE-UHFFFAOYSA-M Bisulfite Chemical compound OS([O-])=O LSNNMFCWUKXFEE-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 4
- BTBUEUYNUDRHOZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N Borate Chemical compound [O-]B([O-])[O-] BTBUEUYNUDRHOZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 4
- KRKNYBCHXYNGOX-UHFFFAOYSA-K Citrate Chemical compound [O-]C(=O)CC(O)(CC([O-])=O)C([O-])=O KRKNYBCHXYNGOX-UHFFFAOYSA-K 0.000 description 4
- 102000011782 Keratins Human genes 0.000 description 4
- 108010076876 Keratins Proteins 0.000 description 4
- FEWJPZIEWOKRBE-JCYAYHJZSA-L L-tartrate(2-) Chemical compound [O-]C(=O)[C@H](O)[C@@H](O)C([O-])=O FEWJPZIEWOKRBE-JCYAYHJZSA-L 0.000 description 4
- GTDPSWPPOUPBNX-UHFFFAOYSA-N ac1mqpva Chemical compound CC12C(=O)OC(=O)C1(C)C1(C)C2(C)C(=O)OC1=O GTDPSWPPOUPBNX-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 4
- 125000003277 amino group Chemical group 0.000 description 4
- 125000001495 ethyl group Chemical group [H]C([H])([H])C([H])([H])* 0.000 description 4
- QAOWNCQODCNURD-UHFFFAOYSA-M hydrogensulfate Chemical compound OS([O-])(=O)=O QAOWNCQODCNURD-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 4
- 150000003893 lactate salts Chemical class 0.000 description 4
- 229910052757 nitrogen Inorganic materials 0.000 description 4
- 150000007524 organic acids Chemical class 0.000 description 4
- 230000003647 oxidation Effects 0.000 description 4
- 150000003839 salts Chemical class 0.000 description 4
- 239000002453 shampoo Substances 0.000 description 4
- 150000003467 sulfuric acid derivatives Chemical class 0.000 description 4
- 229940095064 tartrate Drugs 0.000 description 4
- QLAJNZSPVITUCQ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 1,3,2-dioxathietane 2,2-dioxide Chemical compound O=S1(=O)OCO1 QLAJNZSPVITUCQ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
- QTBSBXVTEAMEQO-UHFFFAOYSA-N Acetic acid Chemical class CC(O)=O QTBSBXVTEAMEQO-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
- BRLQWZUYTZBJKN-UHFFFAOYSA-N Epichlorohydrin Chemical compound ClCC1CO1 BRLQWZUYTZBJKN-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
- CERQOIWHTDAKMF-UHFFFAOYSA-M Methacrylate Chemical compound CC(=C)C([O-])=O CERQOIWHTDAKMF-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 3
- 150000001242 acetic acid derivatives Chemical class 0.000 description 3
- 150000003926 acrylamides Chemical class 0.000 description 3
- 239000004480 active ingredient Substances 0.000 description 3
- QVGXLLKOCUKJST-UHFFFAOYSA-N atomic oxygen Chemical compound [O] QVGXLLKOCUKJST-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
- 229910052799 carbon Inorganic materials 0.000 description 3
- 230000015556 catabolic process Effects 0.000 description 3
- 239000006071 cream Substances 0.000 description 3
- 238000006731 degradation reaction Methods 0.000 description 3
- 230000001747 exhibiting effect Effects 0.000 description 3
- 125000000623 heterocyclic group Chemical group 0.000 description 3
- 125000001183 hydrocarbyl group Chemical group 0.000 description 3
- 229910052500 inorganic mineral Inorganic materials 0.000 description 3
- 239000011707 mineral Substances 0.000 description 3
- 150000007522 mineralic acids Chemical class 0.000 description 3
- 229910052760 oxygen Inorganic materials 0.000 description 3
- 239000001301 oxygen Substances 0.000 description 3
- 239000002304 perfume Substances 0.000 description 3
- 230000002085 persistent effect Effects 0.000 description 3
- 229920001281 polyalkylene Polymers 0.000 description 3
- RRHXZLALVWBDKH-UHFFFAOYSA-M trimethyl-[2-(2-methylprop-2-enoyloxy)ethyl]azanium;chloride Chemical compound [Cl-].CC(=C)C(=O)OCC[N+](C)(C)C RRHXZLALVWBDKH-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 3
- XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N water Chemical compound O XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
- OSSNTDFYBPYIEC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 1-ethenylimidazole Chemical compound C=CN1C=CN=C1 OSSNTDFYBPYIEC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- MXRGSJAOLKBZLU-UHFFFAOYSA-N 3-ethenylazepan-2-one Chemical compound C=CC1CCCCNC1=O MXRGSJAOLKBZLU-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- OKTJSMMVPCPJKN-UHFFFAOYSA-N Carbon Chemical compound [C] OKTJSMMVPCPJKN-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- LYCAIKOWRPUZTN-UHFFFAOYSA-N Ethylene glycol Chemical compound OCCO LYCAIKOWRPUZTN-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- 229920000209 Hexadimethrine bromide Polymers 0.000 description 2
- MHAJPDPJQMAIIY-UHFFFAOYSA-N Hydrogen peroxide Chemical compound OO MHAJPDPJQMAIIY-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- OFOBLEOULBTSOW-UHFFFAOYSA-N Malonic acid Chemical compound OC(=O)CC(O)=O OFOBLEOULBTSOW-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- QUBHKIHVNBLQBS-UHFFFAOYSA-N N-benzyl-N',N'-dimethyl-N-(3-methylphenyl)-1-phenylethane-1,2-diamine 2,3-dihydroxybutanedioic acid Chemical compound OC(=O)C(O)C(O)C(O)=O.C=1C=CC=CC=1C(CN(C)C)N(C=1C=C(C)C=CC=1)CC1=CC=CC=C1 QUBHKIHVNBLQBS-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- 238000010521 absorption reaction Methods 0.000 description 2
- 150000007513 acids Chemical class 0.000 description 2
- 235000011037 adipic acid Nutrition 0.000 description 2
- 239000001361 adipic acid Substances 0.000 description 2
- 125000001931 aliphatic group Chemical group 0.000 description 2
- 125000003282 alkyl amino group Chemical group 0.000 description 2
- 230000029936 alkylation Effects 0.000 description 2
- 238000005804 alkylation reaction Methods 0.000 description 2
- 150000003863 ammonium salts Chemical class 0.000 description 2
- 230000001588 bifunctional effect Effects 0.000 description 2
- 239000003093 cationic surfactant Substances 0.000 description 2
- NEHMKBQYUWJMIP-NJFSPNSNSA-N chloro(114C)methane Chemical compound [14CH3]Cl NEHMKBQYUWJMIP-NJFSPNSNSA-N 0.000 description 2
- 238000009833 condensation Methods 0.000 description 2
- 230000005494 condensation Effects 0.000 description 2
- 230000003750 conditioning effect Effects 0.000 description 2
- 239000000470 constituent Substances 0.000 description 2
- 238000007334 copolymerization reaction Methods 0.000 description 2
- 150000004985 diamines Chemical class 0.000 description 2
- YIOJGTBNHQAVBO-UHFFFAOYSA-N dimethyl-bis(prop-2-enyl)azanium Chemical compound C=CC[N+](C)(C)CC=C YIOJGTBNHQAVBO-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- 239000000982 direct dye Substances 0.000 description 2
- 125000005842 heteroatom Chemical group 0.000 description 2
- 150000002430 hydrocarbons Chemical class 0.000 description 2
- 125000002887 hydroxy group Chemical group [H]O* 0.000 description 2
- MTNDZQHUAFNZQY-UHFFFAOYSA-N imidazoline Chemical compound C1CN=CN1 MTNDZQHUAFNZQY-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- FQPSGWSUVKBHSU-UHFFFAOYSA-N methacrylamide Chemical class CC(=C)C(N)=O FQPSGWSUVKBHSU-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- 125000005395 methacrylic acid group Chemical group 0.000 description 2
- JZMJDSHXVKJFKW-UHFFFAOYSA-M methyl sulfate(1-) Chemical compound COS([O-])(=O)=O JZMJDSHXVKJFKW-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 2
- 239000002480 mineral oil Substances 0.000 description 2
- 235000010446 mineral oil Nutrition 0.000 description 2
- ZIUHHBKFKCYYJD-UHFFFAOYSA-N n,n'-methylenebisacrylamide Chemical compound C=CC(=O)NCNC(=O)C=C ZIUHHBKFKCYYJD-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- 150000002823 nitrates Chemical class 0.000 description 2
- 150000002825 nitriles Chemical class 0.000 description 2
- 239000003921 oil Substances 0.000 description 2
- 239000007800 oxidant agent Substances 0.000 description 2
- 125000004193 piperazinyl group Chemical group 0.000 description 2
- 238000006068 polycondensation reaction Methods 0.000 description 2
- 238000006116 polymerization reaction Methods 0.000 description 2
- 239000003755 preservative agent Substances 0.000 description 2
- 125000002924 primary amino group Chemical group [H]N([H])* 0.000 description 2
- 125000001436 propyl group Chemical group [H]C([*])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])[H] 0.000 description 2
- 125000001453 quaternary ammonium group Chemical group 0.000 description 2
- 150000003335 secondary amines Chemical group 0.000 description 2
- 150000003457 sulfones Chemical class 0.000 description 2
- 239000011593 sulfur Substances 0.000 description 2
- 229910052717 sulfur Inorganic materials 0.000 description 2
- 239000002562 thickening agent Substances 0.000 description 2
- 230000000007 visual effect Effects 0.000 description 2
- WDRZVZVXHZNSFG-UHFFFAOYSA-N 1-ethenylpyridin-1-ium Chemical group C=C[N+]1=CC=CC=C1 WDRZVZVXHZNSFG-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- SMZOUWXMTYCWNB-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-(2-methoxy-5-methylphenyl)ethanamine Chemical compound COC1=CC=C(C)C=C1CCN SMZOUWXMTYCWNB-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- GQWWGRUJOCIUKI-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-[3-(2-methyl-1-oxopyrrolo[1,2-a]pyrazin-3-yl)propyl]guanidine Chemical group O=C1N(C)C(CCCN=C(N)N)=CN2C=CC=C21 GQWWGRUJOCIUKI-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- KGIGUEBEKRSTEW-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-vinylpyridine Chemical compound C=CC1=CC=CC=N1 KGIGUEBEKRSTEW-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- ACGQRMRFZCXYHQ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 3-[2-(2-aminoethylamino)ethyl-(dimethylamino)amino]propan-1-ol Chemical compound OCCCN(N(C)C)CCNCCN ACGQRMRFZCXYHQ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- NIXOWILDQLNWCW-UHFFFAOYSA-M Acrylate Chemical compound [O-]C(=O)C=C NIXOWILDQLNWCW-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 1
- 241000195940 Bryophyta Species 0.000 description 1
- 125000002853 C1-C4 hydroxyalkyl group Chemical group 0.000 description 1
- GAWIXWVDTYZWAW-UHFFFAOYSA-N C[CH]O Chemical group C[CH]O GAWIXWVDTYZWAW-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- RYGMFSIKBFXOCR-UHFFFAOYSA-N Copper Chemical compound [Cu] RYGMFSIKBFXOCR-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- QEVGZEDELICMKH-UHFFFAOYSA-N Diglycolic acid Chemical compound OC(=O)COCC(O)=O QEVGZEDELICMKH-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
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- VGGSQFUCUMXWEO-UHFFFAOYSA-N Ethene Chemical compound C=C VGGSQFUCUMXWEO-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
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- JVTAAEKCZFNVCJ-UHFFFAOYSA-M Lactate Chemical compound CC(O)C([O-])=O JVTAAEKCZFNVCJ-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 1
- AFVFQIVMOAPDHO-UHFFFAOYSA-N Methanesulfonic acid Chemical compound CS(O)(=O)=O AFVFQIVMOAPDHO-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
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- 229930182559 Natural dye Natural products 0.000 description 1
- NHNBFGGVMKEFGY-UHFFFAOYSA-N Nitrate Chemical compound [O-][N+]([O-])=O NHNBFGGVMKEFGY-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
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- XUIMIQQOPSSXEZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N Silicon Chemical group [Si] XUIMIQQOPSSXEZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- CDBYLPFSWZWCQE-UHFFFAOYSA-L Sodium Carbonate Chemical compound [Na+].[Na+].[O-]C([O-])=O CDBYLPFSWZWCQE-UHFFFAOYSA-L 0.000 description 1
- 239000004904 UV filter Substances 0.000 description 1
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- 125000003342 alkenyl group Chemical group 0.000 description 1
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- 239000003963 antioxidant agent Substances 0.000 description 1
- 125000001797 benzyl group Chemical group [H]C1=C([H])C([H])=C(C([H])=C1[H])C([H])([H])* 0.000 description 1
- NUKAPDHENUQUOI-UHFFFAOYSA-N benzyl(18-methylnonadecyl)azanium;chloride Chemical class [Cl-].CC(C)CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC[NH2+]CC1=CC=CC=C1 NUKAPDHENUQUOI-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
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- WOWHHFRSBJGXCM-UHFFFAOYSA-M cetyltrimethylammonium chloride Chemical compound [Cl-].CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC[N+](C)(C)C WOWHHFRSBJGXCM-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 1
- RLGQACBPNDBWTB-UHFFFAOYSA-N cetyltrimethylammonium ion Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC[N+](C)(C)C RLGQACBPNDBWTB-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
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- UCYFZDNMZYZSPN-UHFFFAOYSA-N docosyl(trimethyl)azanium Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC[N+](C)(C)C UCYFZDNMZYZSPN-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
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- WCYWZMWISLQXQU-UHFFFAOYSA-N methyl Chemical compound [CH3] WCYWZMWISLQXQU-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- JZMJDSHXVKJFKW-UHFFFAOYSA-N methyl sulfate Chemical class COS(O)(=O)=O JZMJDSHXVKJFKW-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
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- 235000011929 mousse Nutrition 0.000 description 1
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- 102000004169 proteins and genes Human genes 0.000 description 1
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- 238000005956 quaternization reaction Methods 0.000 description 1
- DUIOPKIIICUYRZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N semicarbazide Chemical compound NNC(N)=O DUIOPKIIICUYRZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
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- 125000001273 sulfonato group Chemical group [O-]S(*)(=O)=O 0.000 description 1
- 150000003462 sulfoxides Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 125000004434 sulfur atom Chemical group 0.000 description 1
- 239000004094 surface-active agent Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000008961 swelling Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000012209 synthetic fiber Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229920002994 synthetic fiber Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 229920001897 terpolymer Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 150000003512 tertiary amines Chemical group 0.000 description 1
- 150000005621 tetraalkylammonium salts Chemical group 0.000 description 1
- CWERGRDVMFNCDR-UHFFFAOYSA-N thioglycolic acid Chemical class OC(=O)CS CWERGRDVMFNCDR-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- JOXIMZWYDAKGHI-UHFFFAOYSA-M toluene-4-sulfonate Chemical compound CC1=CC=C(S([O-])(=O)=O)C=C1 JOXIMZWYDAKGHI-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 1
- USFMMZYROHDWPJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N trimethyl-[2-(2-methylprop-2-enoyloxy)ethyl]azanium Chemical compound CC(=C)C(=O)OCC[N+](C)(C)C USFMMZYROHDWPJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 235000013311 vegetables Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 229920001567 vinyl ester resin Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 125000000391 vinyl group Chemical group [H]C([*])=C([H])[H] 0.000 description 1
- 239000011782 vitamin Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229940088594 vitamin Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 229930003231 vitamin Natural products 0.000 description 1
- 235000013343 vitamin Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000001993 wax Substances 0.000 description 1
Classifications
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A45—HAND OR TRAVELLING ARTICLES
- A45D—HAIRDRESSING OR SHAVING EQUIPMENT; EQUIPMENT FOR COSMETICS OR COSMETIC TREATMENTS, e.g. FOR MANICURING OR PEDICURING
- A45D7/00—Processes of waving, straightening or curling hair
- A45D7/02—Processes of waving, straightening or curling hair thermal
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A45—HAND OR TRAVELLING ARTICLES
- A45D—HAIRDRESSING OR SHAVING EQUIPMENT; EQUIPMENT FOR COSMETICS OR COSMETIC TREATMENTS, e.g. FOR MANICURING OR PEDICURING
- A45D7/00—Processes of waving, straightening or curling hair
- A45D7/06—Processes of waving, straightening or curling hair combined chemical and thermal
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A45—HAND OR TRAVELLING ARTICLES
- A45D—HAIRDRESSING OR SHAVING EQUIPMENT; EQUIPMENT FOR COSMETICS OR COSMETIC TREATMENTS, e.g. FOR MANICURING OR PEDICURING
- A45D1/00—Curling-tongs, i.e. tongs for use when hot; Curling-irons, i.e. irons for use when hot; Accessories therefor
- A45D2001/008—Curling-tongs, i.e. tongs for use when hot; Curling-irons, i.e. irons for use when hot; Accessories therefor with vapor generation, e.g. steam
Definitions
- the present invention relates to a new process for treating hair fibers, in particular hair.
- the aim of the present invention is to develop a new process for the treatment of keratin fibers which makes it possible to obtain an improvement in the cosmetic and visual properties of hair fibers with processes that are easy and quick to implement, and which are persistent. minus a wash.
- the steam application step and the shaping step are not carried out simultaneously on the same portion of hair fibers, these two steps can nevertheless be implemented with the same device. configured to successively implement these two steps.
- two separate devices can be used to implement these separate steps.
- the process of the present invention makes it possible in particular to obtain rapid shaping of the hair fibers while improving their cosmetic properties. Furthermore, the process of the present invention makes it possible to obtain an improvement in the cosmetic properties which is persistent after at least one wash and in the ease of application for the user.
- the hair fibers treated by the process of the invention thus exhibit improved smoothness with a brighter appearance than that obtained with the process of the technique and this even in the absence of additional cosmetic active ingredients.
- hair fibers means keratin fibers such as the hair or synthetic fibers called “extensions” which are intended to be attached to the hair of a person by various means, in particular by gluing. and this in order to modify the appearance of a person's natural hair, for example, by modifying the volume, color or appearance of the hair.
- the application of steam can be carried out before or after the step of shaping the hair fibers.
- the shaping of the hair fibers is carried out after the steam treatment of these hair fibers.
- the quantity of steam is between 1 and 4 g / min.
- the water vapor which is applied to the hair contains one or more cosmetic ingredients and / or active ingredients such as a perfume, a shaping or conditioning active, etc.
- this device is portable, that is to say that the reservoir making it possible to generate the steam is in contact with the part of the device comprising the orifices for distributing the steam.
- the step of shaping the hair fibers can be carried out with any type of means known in the art making it possible to obtain a temperature on the fibers of at least 50 ° C.
- the means for shaping the hair fibers are, for example, devices having a heating surface capable of coming into contact with the hair fibers and of applying to these fibers a tension, even slight, making it possible to smooth, style and disentangle the fibers. capillaries.
- the forming temperature is greater than 90 ° C, preferably between 90 ° C and 230 ° C, in particular between 150 and 200 ° C.
- the shaping step is carried out by means of smoothing pliers.
- smoothing pliers mention may be made of the flat smoothing pliers described in the patents. US5957140 , US5046516 , US7044139 , US5223694 , US5091629 .
- the process of the present invention makes it possible in particular when the application of steam is carried out before shaping, to sufficiently hydrate the fibers to reduce the degradation of the latter during the implementation of the shaping. at a temperature above 50 ° C.
- the shaping step is carried out after the steam treatment.
- the method of the invention further comprises a step of cosmetic treatment of the hair fibers by means of a composition comprising one or more cosmetic active ingredients.
- This cosmetic treatment step can be carried out before or after the application of the steam and / or before or after the shaping of the hair fibers. It should in particular be noted that this cosmetic treatment step is not carried out simultaneously with the application of the steam.
- the method of the invention comprises, in order, the cosmetic treatment step, followed by the application of steam and then by shaping the hair fibers.
- the method of the invention comprises in order the application of steam, followed by the shaping of the hair fibers, then by the cosmetic treatment step.
- the method of the invention comprises in order the application of steam, followed by the step of cosmetic treatment then by the step of shaping the hair fibers.
- the process of the invention can comprise a second stage of post-treatment or pre-treatment of the hair fibers, identical to or different from the first stage of cosmetic treatment.
- the cosmetic treatment step may be a step for caring for the hair fibers, which may or may not be followed by rinsing, a step of washing the fibers, a step of shaping or controlling the shape, for example using by means of a fixing gel, a shaping mousse, a lacquer, a leave-in conditioner in the form of a cream, a permanent, semi-permanent or temporary coloring step, a permanent deformation step with by means of a reducing agent and optionally of a fixing agent, an alkaline straightening step with soda or with guanidine carbonate.
- non-polymeric, non-coloring cationic cosmetic agents containing one or more cationic units and having one or more fatty chains.
- non-coloring is understood to mean not exhibiting in its structure a chromophore exhibiting absorption maximums in the visible range.
- fatty chain is understood to mean any hydrocarbon chain comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms.
- the cationic cosmetic agent (s) defined above can be chosen from primary, secondary, tertiary and quaternary, aliphatic or cyclic amine groups.
- the amine groups are quaternary.
- the cationic cosmetic agent (s) used according to the invention are generally chosen from cationic surfactants.
- salts of primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines optionally polyoxyalkylenated; quaternary ammonium salts with a charge not included in a ring and without an ester function; quaternary imidazoline derivatives; quaternary diammonium salts; quaternary ammonium salts with ester function (s); and / or one of their mixtures.
- the R 15 alkyl radicals can be linear or branched and more particularly linear.
- R 15 denotes a methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl or dihydroxypropyl radical and more particularly a methyl or ethyl radical.
- the sum x + y + z is equal to 1 to 10.
- R 16 is a hydrocarbon radical R 20 , it may be long and have 12 to 22 carbon atoms or short and have 1 to 3 carbon atoms.
- R 18 is an R 22 hydrocarbon radical, it preferably has 1 to 3 carbon atoms.
- x and z which are identical or different, are equal to 0 or 1.
- y is equal to 1.
- n, p and r which are identical or different, are equal to 2 or 3 and even more particularly are equal to 2.
- the anion is preferably a halide. (chloride, bromide or iodide) or an alkylsulphate more particularly methylsulphate.
- halide chloride, bromide or iodide
- alkylsulphate more particularly methylsulphate.
- the anion X- is even more particularly chloride or methylsulphate.
- hydrocarbon radicals are linear.
- tetraalkylammonium chlorides such as, for example, alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides, in which the alkyl radical contains approximately from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular behenyl-trimethylammonium, cetyltrimethylammonium, benzyldimethylstearyl ammonium chlorides or, on the other hand, palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride or stearamido-propyldimethyl (myristyl acetate) ammonium chloride marketed under the name "CERAPHYL 70 "by the company VAN DYK.
- Quaternary ammonium salts of formula (IV) suitable for the invention include in particular dipalmitoylethyl hydroxyethylmmonium methosulfate, sold by the company STEPAN under the reference STEPANQUAT GA 90.
- the preferred cationic molecules which can be used in the composition according to the invention are the compounds of formula (I) or of formula (IV).
- Cetyl trimethyl ammonium chloride will be preferred.
- the cationic molecule (s) can also be chosen from cationic proteins.
- the cationic cosmetic agent (s) advantageously represent from 0.1% to 10% by weight of the total weight of the composition, with the proviso that if the cationic cosmetic agent is a tetraalkylammonium salt containing only one fatty chain, it either present in a content greater than or equal to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
- the cationic cosmetic agent (s) used in the invention whatever their nature, represent from 1 to 10%, better still from 1 to 5%, by weight of the total weight of the composition.
- the cationic cosmetic agent (s) when the cationic cosmetic agent (s) comprises two fatty chains, it does not contain any amide function.
- cosmetic agent useful in the process of the invention of non-coloring cationic polymers, not derived from a sugar or from a silicone, having a cationic charge density greater than 1.5. meq / g.
- the charge density can be determined according to the Kjedahl method. It is generally measured at a pH of the order of 3 to 9.
- the cationic polymers used in the present invention exhibit a cationic charge density of less than 10 meq / g.
- cationic polymer is understood to mean any polymer containing cationic groups and / or groups which can be ionized into cationic groups.
- non-coloring is understood to mean not having in its structure a chromophore exhibiting a maximum absorption in the visible range.
- non-derivative of a sugar or a silicone is understood to mean not comprising in its structure a sugar unit (mono, oligo or polysaccharide) or a unit containing one or more silicon atoms.
- the cationic polymers which can be used in accordance with the present invention can be chosen from all those already known per se as improving the cosmetic properties of hair treated with detergent compositions, namely in particular those described in the patent application.
- the preferred cationic polymers are chosen from those which contain units comprising primary, secondary, tertiary and / or quaternary amine groups which can either form part of the main polymer chain, or be carried by a side substituent directly linked thereto.
- the cationic polymers used have a weight average molecular mass greater than 10 5 , preferably greater than 10 6 and better still between 10 6 and 10 8 .
- the cationic polymers are not polyurethanes.
- cationic polymers which can be used according to the invention, there may be mentioned more particularly polymers of the polyamine, polyaminoamide and polyquaternary ammonium type. These are known products.
- cationic polymers which can be used in the context of the invention are polyalkyleneimines, in particular polyethyleneimines, polymers containing vinylpyridine or vinylpyridinium units, condensates of polyamines and epichlorohydrin, and quaternary polyureylenes.
- the cationic polymers which can be used according to the invention exhibit a permanent cationic charge corresponding to the presence of units comprising quaternary amine groups.
- the cationic polymers of the invention are chosen from dialkyldiallylammonium cyclopolymers and quaternary diammonium polymers of formula (II).
- the cationic polymer (s) advantageously represent from 0.1 to 10%, better still from 0.2 to 8%, by weight of the total weight of the composition.
- the cosmetic treatment step can be implemented from a composition in the form of a lotion, thickened or not, of a cream, of a gel, or of any other suitable form.
- compositions used are generally aqueous compositions which may contain ingredients usually used in cosmetic compositions, such as solvents, surfactants, thickeners, preservatives, perfumes or any other additive used in this type of composition.
- the method of the invention can comprise an additional final shaping step, for example a smoothing step, in particular if the previous step is a cosmetic treatment step.
- Strands of hair are washed and wrung out. Pre-drying of the hair is then carried out until about 80% drying is obtained.
- a permanent oxidation coloring of shade 5.64 (light brown copper red from the Majirouge range) is then applied which consists in applying to the hair fibers one or more oxidation bases and one or more well-known couplers, from the field of coloring. permanent, in the presence of an oxidizing agent (hydrogen peroxide).
- a reducing cream is applied with a brush comprising thioglycolic acid salts. After the exposure time, the locks are rinsed again then wrung out and pre-dried to 80% with a hair dryer.
- fixative is then applied to the entire hair. After an exposure time, the locks are rinsed, drained and dried.
- thermo cement treatment from Kerastase is applied, which is a leave-on care product comprising silicones and cationic surfactants. Pre-drying of the locks is then carried out until about 80% drying is obtained.
- Strands of hair are washed and wrung out. Pre-drying of the hair is then carried out until about 80% drying is obtained.
- steam is applied under the conditions defined in the present invention, this application of steam being followed by the shaping / smoothing step by means of a straightening forceps heated to at least 100 ° vs. This treatment is carried out strand by strand over the entire hair.
Landscapes
- Physics & Mathematics (AREA)
- Thermal Sciences (AREA)
- Cosmetics (AREA)
- Chemical Or Physical Treatment Of Fibers (AREA)
- Yarns And Mechanical Finishing Of Yarns Or Ropes (AREA)
- Organic Low-Molecular-Weight Compounds And Preparation Thereof (AREA)
Claims (9)
- Verfahren zur Behandlung von Haarfasern, das Folgendes umfasst: Aufbringen von Wasserdampf in einer Menge von weniger als 5 g/min auf die Haarfasern,
Formgebung dieser Haarfasern mittels eines Glätteisens bei einer Temperatur zwischen 90 °C und 230 °C,
wobei die Formgebung nach dem Aufbringen des Dampfes erfolgt, das Verfahren auf jede Strähne von behandelten Haarfasern nur einmal Dampf aufgebracht wird. - Verfahren nach Anspruch 1, wobei die verwendete Dampfmenge ist der Dampfmenge zwischen 1 und 4 g/min ist.
- Verfahren nach Anspruch 1, wobei die Glättung bei jeder Strähne von behandelten Haarfasern in einem einzigen Durchgang vorgenommen wird.
- Verfahren nach einem der vorhergehenden Ansprüche, wobei der Wasserdampf einen oder mehrere kosmetisch wirksame Bestandteile und/oder Stoffe enthält.
- Verfahren nach einem der vorhergehenden Ansprüche, das darüber hinaus einen Schritt der kosmetischen Behandlung der Haarfasern mittels einer Zusammensetzung umfasst, welche einen oder mehrere kosmetisch wirksame Stoffe umfasst.
- Verfahren nach Anspruch 5, das den Schritt der kosmetischen Behandlung gefolgt vom Schritt des Aufbringens von Dampf und dann vom Schritt der Formgebung der Haarfasern in dieser Reihenfolge umfasst.
- Verfahren nach Anspruch 5, das den Schritt des Aufbringens von Dampf gefolgt vom Schritt der Formgebung der Haarfasern und dann vom Schritt der kosmetischen Behandlung in dieser Reihenfolge umfasst.
- Verfahren nach Anspruch 5, wobei es den Schritt des Aufbringens von Dampf gefolgt vom Schritt der kosmetischen Behandlung und dann vom Schritt der Formgebung der Haarfasern in dieser Reihenfolge umfasst.
- Verfahren nach einem der Ansprüche 5 bis 6, wobei der Schritt der kosmetischen Behandlung aus einem Schritt der Pflege der Haarfasern, einem Schritt des Waschens der Fasern, einem Formgebungsschritt, einem Schritt der permanenten, semipermanenten oder temporären Haarfärbung, einem Schritt der dauerhaften Verformung mit Hilfe eines Reduktionsmittels und gegebenenfalls eines Fixierungsmittels, einem Schritt der alkalischen Entkräuselung mittels Natriumhydroxid oder mit Guanidincarbonat ausgewählt wird.
Applications Claiming Priority (1)
Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
---|---|---|---|
FR0952200A FR2943895B1 (fr) | 2009-04-03 | 2009-04-03 | Procede de traitement des cheveux a l'aide de vapeur d'eau. |
Publications (3)
Publication Number | Publication Date |
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EP2236053A1 EP2236053A1 (de) | 2010-10-06 |
EP2236053B1 EP2236053B1 (de) | 2016-03-30 |
EP2236053B2 true EP2236053B2 (de) | 2021-03-03 |
Family
ID=41665324
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Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
---|---|---|---|
EP10158979.4A Active EP2236053B2 (de) | 2009-04-03 | 2010-04-01 | Verfahren zur Dampfbehandlung von Haar |
Country Status (9)
Country | Link |
---|---|
US (2) | US9603429B2 (de) |
EP (1) | EP2236053B2 (de) |
JP (4) | JP2010241812A (de) |
KR (1) | KR101235394B1 (de) |
CN (2) | CN105831947A (de) |
BR (1) | BRPI1001018B1 (de) |
ES (1) | ES2576735T3 (de) |
FR (1) | FR2943895B1 (de) |
MX (1) | MX338820B (de) |
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FR3039374B1 (fr) * | 2015-07-29 | 2019-12-20 | L'oreal | Procede de traitement de fibres capillaires |
FR3043549B1 (fr) * | 2015-11-12 | 2018-12-07 | L'oreal | Procede de traitement des fibres keratiniques avec une composition comprenant un agent reticulant et un fer vapeur |
JP6317515B1 (ja) * | 2017-10-23 | 2018-04-25 | 株式会社フルメタルジャケット | 毛髪にストレートパーマをかける方法 |
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US5585307A (en) | 1995-02-27 | 1996-12-17 | Taiwan Semiconductor Manufacturing Company Ltd. | Forming a semi-recessed metal for better EM and Planarization using a silo mask |
DE19810598A1 (de) | 1998-03-12 | 1999-09-23 | Braun Gmbh | Gerät zum Behandeln von Haaren |
US5957140A (en) | 1998-11-19 | 1999-09-28 | Mcgee; Robert J. | Hair styling iron for straightening and curling |
US6521219B1 (en) | 2000-09-06 | 2003-02-18 | Phild Co., Ltd. | Method of repairing or restoring damaged or imperfect hair |
US6805136B2 (en) * | 2001-11-02 | 2004-10-19 | Kenra, Llc | Hair relaxer |
CN1282434C (zh) * | 2002-06-26 | 2006-11-01 | 松下电工株式会社 | 烫发器 |
US7178531B2 (en) * | 2002-06-26 | 2007-02-20 | The Procter & Gamble Company | Device for achieving smooth and straight hair |
US7044139B2 (en) | 2003-08-01 | 2006-05-16 | Hometek International Ltd. | Hair curling iron and shaping tool |
JP2005179210A (ja) * | 2003-12-17 | 2005-07-07 | Lion Corp | 毛髪変形剤組成物、2剤混合型毛髪変形剤組成物、並びに毛髪変形剤用組成物 |
US20050196368A1 (en) * | 2004-02-12 | 2005-09-08 | Ludivine Laurent | Cosmetic composition comprising at least one anionic fixing polymer and at least one nonionic compound, and a process for shaping keratin fibers therewith by applying heat |
FR2866232B1 (fr) * | 2004-02-12 | 2007-02-09 | Oreal | Procede de mise en forme des fibres keratiniques par application d'une composition cosmetique comprenant un polymere fixant anionique et un compose non-ionique et application d'un moyen chauffant, composition correspondante |
JP2005230350A (ja) * | 2004-02-20 | 2005-09-02 | Akihiro Watanabe | パーマネントウェーブ形成器具及びパーマネントウェーブ形成方法 |
US7465904B2 (en) | 2004-11-01 | 2008-12-16 | K.I.C.A. Inc. | Portable hair iron utilizing anions and moisture to strengthen and reduce damage to hair |
FR2887440B1 (fr) * | 2005-06-28 | 2009-07-10 | Oreal | Procede de traitement photoprotecteur des fibres keratiniques par application de chaleur |
TWI377921B (en) | 2006-08-08 | 2012-12-01 | Takara Belmont | Permanent wave treatment method and apparatus thereof |
FR2921803B1 (fr) | 2007-10-03 | 2011-04-29 | Seb Sa | Appareil de traitement des cheveux a la vapeur |
FR2921804B1 (fr) * | 2007-10-03 | 2011-05-06 | Seb Sa | Appareil portatif de traitement des cheveux a la vapeur |
FR2967020B1 (fr) | 2010-11-05 | 2012-12-21 | Seb Sa | Appareil de coiffure a vapeur compose d'une base et d'une unite portable |
FR2967017B1 (fr) | 2010-11-05 | 2014-04-04 | Seb Sa | Appareil de coiffure a vapeur |
-
2009
- 2009-04-03 FR FR0952200A patent/FR2943895B1/fr not_active Expired - Fee Related
-
2010
- 2010-03-31 MX MX2010003623A patent/MX338820B/es active IP Right Grant
- 2010-03-31 BR BRPI1001018-1A patent/BRPI1001018B1/pt active IP Right Grant
- 2010-04-01 EP EP10158979.4A patent/EP2236053B2/de active Active
- 2010-04-01 ES ES10158979.4T patent/ES2576735T3/es active Active
- 2010-04-02 JP JP2010085876A patent/JP2010241812A/ja active Pending
- 2010-04-02 KR KR1020100030464A patent/KR101235394B1/ko active IP Right Grant
- 2010-04-02 CN CN201610381774.2A patent/CN105831947A/zh active Pending
- 2010-04-02 US US12/753,341 patent/US9603429B2/en active Active
- 2010-04-02 CN CN201010174103A patent/CN101856172A/zh active Pending
-
2015
- 2015-09-25 JP JP2015188560A patent/JP2016025937A/ja active Pending
-
2017
- 2017-02-07 US US15/426,567 patent/US20170143091A1/en not_active Abandoned
- 2017-09-08 JP JP2017172953A patent/JP7020826B2/ja active Active
-
2020
- 2020-09-10 JP JP2020151979A patent/JP2020203128A/ja active Pending
Patent Citations (3)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
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JPH0751119A (ja) † | 1993-08-20 | 1995-02-28 | Kazumi Segami | パーマネントトリートメントの施術方法、アイロンパーマネントウェーブの施術方法及びトリートメント剤 |
WO2004002263A1 (en) † | 2002-06-26 | 2004-01-08 | The Procter & Gamble Company | Device for achieving smooth and straight hair |
WO2009043909A1 (en) † | 2007-10-03 | 2009-04-09 | L'oreal | Method for treating the hair using steam |
Also Published As
Publication number | Publication date |
---|---|
CN105831947A (zh) | 2016-08-10 |
MX2010003623A (es) | 2010-10-13 |
FR2943895A1 (fr) | 2010-10-08 |
KR20100110748A (ko) | 2010-10-13 |
CN101856172A (zh) | 2010-10-13 |
US20170143091A1 (en) | 2017-05-25 |
ES2576735T3 (es) | 2016-07-11 |
JP2010241812A (ja) | 2010-10-28 |
JP2020203128A (ja) | 2020-12-24 |
JP2018023795A (ja) | 2018-02-15 |
JP7020826B2 (ja) | 2022-02-16 |
BRPI1001018B1 (pt) | 2020-09-15 |
EP2236053A1 (de) | 2010-10-06 |
US20100258141A1 (en) | 2010-10-14 |
MX338820B (es) | 2016-05-03 |
KR101235394B1 (ko) | 2013-02-21 |
US9603429B2 (en) | 2017-03-28 |
JP2016025937A (ja) | 2016-02-12 |
EP2236053B1 (de) | 2016-03-30 |
BRPI1001018A2 (pt) | 2011-04-26 |
FR2943895B1 (fr) | 2011-05-06 |
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