EP1960573B1 - Procede pour la production de fils cachemire - Google Patents

Procede pour la production de fils cachemire Download PDF

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Publication number
EP1960573B1
EP1960573B1 EP05802307A EP05802307A EP1960573B1 EP 1960573 B1 EP1960573 B1 EP 1960573B1 EP 05802307 A EP05802307 A EP 05802307A EP 05802307 A EP05802307 A EP 05802307A EP 1960573 B1 EP1960573 B1 EP 1960573B1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
fibres
cashmere
tops
process according
yarn
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Not-in-force
Application number
EP05802307A
Other languages
German (de)
English (en)
Other versions
EP1960573A1 (fr
Inventor
Manrico Calzoni
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
MANRICO SpA
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MANRICO SpA
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Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by MANRICO SpA filed Critical MANRICO SpA
Publication of EP1960573A1 publication Critical patent/EP1960573A1/fr
Application granted granted Critical
Publication of EP1960573B1 publication Critical patent/EP1960573B1/fr
Not-in-force legal-status Critical Current
Anticipated expiration legal-status Critical

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Classifications

    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D01—NATURAL OR MAN-MADE THREADS OR FIBRES; SPINNING
    • D01G—PRELIMINARY TREATMENT OF FIBRES, e.g. FOR SPINNING
    • D01G99/00—Subject matter not provided for in other groups of this subclass

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to the processing of cashmere fibres to obtain cashmere yarns and cashmere or cashmere - mix textile products, characterised by high quality in terms of fineness (count), mechanical properties and purity.
  • cashmere is a fibre obtained from a particular type of goat and, like all animal fibres, has physical properties directly affected by the collection period (by means of combing), the breed and origin of the goats.
  • Cashmere processing includes opening, carding, combing, stretching, twisting, spinning, double winding, twining, conditioning and weaving.
  • cashmere yarns are widely used in particular for the production of knitwear textile products.
  • patent document US5007136 describes a process for the production of yarn from fiber material
  • patent document WO98/37263 describes a process for treating a fiber to obtaine an aligned sliver
  • patent document US4128398 deals with worsted and whoolen processes
  • patent document WO99/14406 deals with the backwashing of partially processed whool.
  • the aim of the present invention is, therefore, to overcome these disadvantages by providing a process for the production of cashmere or cashmere - mix yarns and fabrics characterised by high level mechanical properties in terms of both durability when used and quality to the touch (softness, voluminosity).
  • the fibres are selected according to criteria of greatest length, lowest micron category, and greatest quantity of cuticle scales per single fibre, to improve the mechanical properties of the finished yarn.
  • choosing the raw material involves making a selection to maximise and standardise the properties which can be achieved, including: length, fineness, cleanness, coefficient of variation, mean height and number of scales, cuticle width.
  • the rigorousness of the selection allows optimisation and standardisation of both the physical - mechanical and the chemical - physical properties of the fibres, which proved essential in order to produce the textile fibre (pure cashmere or silk blend) used to produce a yarn with a count of up to 200,000, having a high mean number of fibres per section, which thanks to the invention may even be 30 or more.
  • any impurities are removed from the cashmere fibres through a customary kemp removal process then it is combed to obtain slivers with aligned fibres, also known as "tops".
  • tops can be sent to a dye bath ( Figure 3 ) which advantageously is performed in controlled temperature and pressure conditions, and separately from the dyeing of any other fibres constituting the yarn, for example silk fibres.
  • the tops are in the form of bobbins, or bumps, protected from the dye bath by a protective layer, or bag with micro-holes in it, permeable to the dye bath, in which the bobbins are immersed to limit the assault on the fibres by the dyeing agents and additives and to prevent loss of the parallelism of the fibres.
  • the tops are washed and dried, the drying preferably being simultaneous with a straightening step.
  • the dried and washed tops can be spun to obtain a single yarn with cashmere fibre.
  • a single yarn may be produced, of pure cashmere or cashmere mixed with other fibres, for example 70% cashmere fibres and 30% silk fibres.
  • the spinning according to this invention may take place in a climatic chamber, under controlled temperature, humidity and pressure operating conditions.
  • the processing used according to the invention through a repetition of the various spinning production steps, for example on the combing machine, guarantee standardisation and greater uniformity of the twisted yarn, even at the expense of processing speed and productivity.
  • a step of weaving the yarns is performed which, according to the invention, takes place in a climatic chamber, under controlled temperature, humidity and pressure conditions, to improve the workability of the yarns and the end quality of the textile product.
  • the fabric obtained is further treated to improve the properties which the user can perceive, that is to say, the quality to the touch.
  • This processing ( Figure 2 ) is the finishing step in which, according to the invention, a process involving double decatising was set up.
  • the weaving step is followed by a first step of stabilising through intermittent decatising (KD) performed in a kier under controlled temperature and pressure conditions, to prepare the fabric for the subsequent finishing step, consisting of washing and ennobling.
  • KD intermittent decatising
  • a decatising wrapper able to allow fabric fixing, preserve the physical - mechanical properties and enhance the aesthetic characteristics such as the elegance, practicality, exclusivity and the " handle " (softness and voluminosity to the touch, that is to say, when felt between the area of the palm next to the thumb and the fingers on the hand), as well as improving functional properties such as lightness and heat regulating capacity unique to cashmere.
  • Table 1 containing some properties characteristic of the yarn and the fabric obtained using the process disclosed, starting with a predetermined selected material and in predetermined environmental conditions.
  • the yarn and the fabric obtained in this way have excellent mechanical properties, which make them suitable for the production of superior products such as sheets, pillowcases and other items.
  • a process and a product according to the present invention may also have different applications and be modified without thereby departing from the scope of the inventive concept.

Landscapes

  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Yarns And Mechanical Finishing Of Yarns Or Ropes (AREA)
  • Woven Fabrics (AREA)
  • Preliminary Treatment Of Fibers (AREA)
  • Spinning Or Twisting Of Yarns (AREA)
  • Chemical Or Physical Treatment Of Fibers (AREA)

Claims (11)

  1. Un procédé pour la production d'un fil composé entièrement ou en partie de fibres de cachemire, caractérisé par les phases suivantes :
    - sélection d'une quantité de fibres sélectionnées selon les critères de longueur, micronage et quantité d'écailles de la cuticule par fibre simple, la largeur des fibres étant inférieure à 15 microns ;
    - traitement pour enlever les jarres des fibres sélectionnées ;
    - peignage des fibres traitées pour obtenir des rubans peignés de fibres alignées ;
    - teinture des rubans peignés dans un bain de teinture, où les rubans peignés sont protégés du bain de teinture par une couche ou poche de protection perméable au bain de teinture ;
    - lavage des rubans peignés teints ;
    - séchage et lissage simultané dans une rame élargisseuse des rubans peignés lavés ;
    - peignage des rubans peignés ;
    - filage des rubans peignés séchés et lavés avec contrôle continu et réglage des conditions de température et d'humidité, afin d'obtenir un fil simple de cachemire.
  2. Le procédé selon la revendication 1, caractérisé en ce que la phase de filage comprend le filage de fibres d'un matériau autre que le cachemire afin d'obtenir un fil simple mélangé cachemire.
  3. Le procédé selon la revendication 2, caractérisé en ce que la phase de teinture des fibres de cachemire est effectuée séparément par rapport à la teinture des fibres de l'autre matériau.
  4. Le procédé selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, caractérisé en ce qu'il comprend en outre une ou plusieurs phases de retordage de plusieurs fils simples, afin d'obtenir un fil retors de cachemire ou mélangé cachemire.
  5. Le procédé pour obtenir un produit textile à partir d'au moins un pourcentage de fils réalisés selon la revendication 4 du procédé, caractérisé en ce qu'il comprend une phase de tissage des fils retors, qui a lieu dans une chambre climatique, avec contrôle continu et réglage des conditions opérationnelles de température, d'humidité et de pression, afin d'améliorer l'aptitude des fils à être travaillés.
  6. Le procédé selon la revendication 5, caractérisé en ce que la phase de tissage est suivie d'une première phase de stabilisation par décatissage discontinu, d'une phase d'apprêtage par lavage et ennoblissement, et d'une deuxième phase de stabilisation par décatissage discontinu.
  7. Le procédé selon la revendication 6, caractérisé en ce qu'au moins une des phases de stabilisation est effectuée dans des conditions contrôlées de température et de pression.
  8. Le procédé selon l'une quelconque des revendications 6, 7, caractérisé en ce qu'au moins une des phases de stabilisation est effectuée en protégeant le produit textile avec une couche, ou enveloppe, réalisée à partir d'un tissu dont la contexture est plus élevée.
  9. Le procédé selon l'une quelconque des revendications de 6 à 8, caractérisé en ce que la phase d'apprêtage est effectuée par calandrage à une température contrôlée.
  10. Le procédé selon l'une quelconque des revendications de 1 à 4, avec un mélange composé de 70 % de fibres de cachemire et 30 % de fibres de soie.
  11. Le procédé selon une ou plusieurs des revendications de 5 à 9, pour la fabrication de draps, taies d'oreiller et autres articles.
EP05802307A 2005-10-24 2005-11-11 Procede pour la production de fils cachemire Not-in-force EP1960573B1 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
IT000638A ITBO20050638A1 (it) 2005-10-24 2005-10-24 Procedimento per la produzione di filati e prodotti tessili in cachemire, filati e prodotti cosi' ottenuti
PCT/IB2005/003474 WO2007049094A1 (fr) 2005-10-24 2005-11-11 Procede pour la production de fils cachemire

Publications (2)

Publication Number Publication Date
EP1960573A1 EP1960573A1 (fr) 2008-08-27
EP1960573B1 true EP1960573B1 (fr) 2010-09-15

Family

ID=35911052

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
EP05802307A Not-in-force EP1960573B1 (fr) 2005-10-24 2005-11-11 Procede pour la production de fils cachemire

Country Status (7)

Country Link
EP (1) EP1960573B1 (fr)
JP (1) JP2009512790A (fr)
CN (1) CN101297069A (fr)
AT (1) ATE481516T1 (fr)
DE (1) DE602005023669D1 (fr)
IT (1) ITBO20050638A1 (fr)
WO (1) WO2007049094A1 (fr)

Cited By (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN107022813A (zh) * 2017-04-07 2017-08-08 金陵科技学院 一种传送副夹板进行梳绵的绢纺生产线
CN113818109A (zh) * 2021-10-19 2021-12-21 内蒙古鄂尔多斯资源股份有限公司 一种无毛绒及其去杂方法和无毛绒制品

Families Citing this family (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US9359721B2 (en) * 2013-03-13 2016-06-07 WestPoint Home LLC Soft feel printed fabric and method of producing same
KR101470580B1 (ko) * 2014-01-22 2014-12-24 한국생산기술연구원 케이폭 섬유 슬라이버의 톱 상태 염색 장치 및 방법
CN104313875B (zh) * 2014-09-29 2016-06-15 张家港市圣美隆羊绒制品有限公司 一种羊绒纱线的制备方法
CN106012143A (zh) * 2016-08-03 2016-10-12 新疆天山纺织服装有限公司 羊绒仿带子纱及其生产工艺

Family Cites Families (8)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US4128398A (en) 1974-03-18 1978-12-05 Diamond Shamrock Corporation Processing aid for use in worsted and woolen processes
JPH01260026A (ja) * 1988-04-04 1989-10-17 Toray Ind Inc 獣毛調合成繊維の製造方法
DE3924208A1 (de) 1989-07-21 1991-01-24 Schubert & Salzer Maschinen Verfahren zur herstellung eines fadens aus fasermaterial
KR920008960B1 (ko) * 1990-08-24 1992-10-12 한얼앙고라모직 주식회사 앙고라모사의 제조방법
DE59510179D1 (de) * 1994-11-08 2002-05-29 Ciba Sc Holding Ag Verfahren zum Färben von wollhaltigen Fasermaterialien
AUPO522997A0 (en) 1997-02-21 1997-04-11 Jindalee Fibre Developments Pty Ltd Fibre processing
AUPO926797A0 (en) 1997-09-17 1997-10-09 Commonwealth Scientific And Industrial Research Organisation Improved backwashing, especially for high sliver delivery speeds
JP2000045183A (ja) * 1998-07-27 2000-02-15 Esupo Kk 繊維処理用の制臭剤及び制臭性繊維

Cited By (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN107022813A (zh) * 2017-04-07 2017-08-08 金陵科技学院 一种传送副夹板进行梳绵的绢纺生产线
CN107022813B (zh) * 2017-04-07 2019-02-15 金陵科技学院 一种传送副夹板进行梳绵的绢纺生产线
CN113818109A (zh) * 2021-10-19 2021-12-21 内蒙古鄂尔多斯资源股份有限公司 一种无毛绒及其去杂方法和无毛绒制品

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
ITBO20050638A1 (it) 2007-04-25
ATE481516T1 (de) 2010-10-15
WO2007049094A1 (fr) 2007-05-03
DE602005023669D1 (de) 2010-10-28
CN101297069A (zh) 2008-10-29
JP2009512790A (ja) 2009-03-26
EP1960573A1 (fr) 2008-08-27

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