EP1919315B1 - Ceinture en forme pour un vetement, procede de production a cet effet et vetement pourvu d'une telle ceinture en forme - Google Patents

Ceinture en forme pour un vetement, procede de production a cet effet et vetement pourvu d'une telle ceinture en forme Download PDF

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Publication number
EP1919315B1
EP1919315B1 EP06777094A EP06777094A EP1919315B1 EP 1919315 B1 EP1919315 B1 EP 1919315B1 EP 06777094 A EP06777094 A EP 06777094A EP 06777094 A EP06777094 A EP 06777094A EP 1919315 B1 EP1919315 B1 EP 1919315B1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
waistband
strip
strips
shaped
clothing
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Not-in-force
Application number
EP06777094A
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German (de)
English (en)
Other versions
EP1919315A1 (fr
Inventor
Thomas Ballweg
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
GARDEUR GmbH
Original Assignee
gardeur GmbH
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by gardeur GmbH filed Critical gardeur GmbH
Publication of EP1919315A1 publication Critical patent/EP1919315A1/fr
Application granted granted Critical
Publication of EP1919315B1 publication Critical patent/EP1919315B1/fr
Not-in-force legal-status Critical Current
Anticipated expiration legal-status Critical

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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41—WEARING APPAREL
    • A41F—GARMENT FASTENINGS; SUSPENDERS
    • A41F9/00—Belts, girdles, or waistbands for trousers or skirts
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41—WEARING APPAREL
    • A41F—GARMENT FASTENINGS; SUSPENDERS
    • A41F9/00—Belts, girdles, or waistbands for trousers or skirts
    • A41F9/02—Expansible or adjustable belts or girdles ; Adjustable fasteners comprising a track and a slide member

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a shaped waistband for a garment, such as a pair of trousers, a skirt or the like, according to claim 1, a method of making such a waistband according to claim 8 and a garment having such a shaped waistband according to claim 16.
  • An ordinary waistband for example for men's trousers, consists of an inner waistband and an outer waistband.
  • the inner waistband and the outer waistband are prefabricated as straight strips or straight cut parts from the material used to make the pants.
  • the waistband strips which are in the form of straight cut pieces, are sewn together along the respective upper edge of the inner and outer waistband strips along a waistband seam. This is in practice no further difficulty, since the inner as well as the outer waistband as straight Stripes are available and the sewing straight seams along straight edges can be done easily by hand or by machine.
  • the waistband top edge with the waistband seam has the same length as the bottom trouser waistband edge, i.e., a contour typical of a conventional waistband similar to the peripheral surface of a cylindrical disk or disk is obtained.
  • Such classic waistband shapes are commonly used for men's trousers or slacks of slim sizes.
  • the wearing comfort that may possibly be perceived as insufficient in the case of the classic waistband can be improved by sewn in an elastic binding tape in the waistband edge.
  • This provides a modest additional elasticity in the circumferential direction of the trouser waistband and thus slightly improves the comfort of the trousers when worn by limiting the waistband circumference to the varying circumference of the covered body area (lower abdomen, waist or upper hip area) depending on the wearer's posture. can yield.
  • the inner and outer waistband are not present as straight streaks. These are rather formed as curved strips, i. they are cut out as circular segments of the fabric as cut parts and fed to further processing.
  • a method used by the Applicant for the production of form ties four shaped waistband parts are cut from the fabric layer. These four shaped waistband parts are then in a rough section and ultimately make up the inner and the outer waistband.
  • an insert for example, a thin polyester fleece or the like in a mold collar appropriate shape cut.
  • the shaped waistbands (inner and outer waistband) cut from the fabric layer are fixed, ie joined together, and then cut to the desired original size.
  • the inner and the outer waistband are sewn together at the upper edge. In this process runs - depending on the embodiment - a non-elastic Lisierband with.
  • the non-elastic Lisierband is quilted in the upper edge of the inner waistband or in the upper edge inner waistband.
  • the covenant is ironed out.
  • the lower edge of the inner collar is about 1 cm taken and quilted or alternatively not beaten, but - possibly with a binding tape - bordered or re-staked or linked. The formbund is thus ready for further processing.
  • Such formations are, for example, from the US 4,146,934 known. Other formations are also from the GB 2 275 413 A , of the US 3,745,588 , of the EP 0 945 535 A2 , of the US 2004/0019955 A1 and the FR 2 340 065 removable.
  • patterns such as line, hatching or check pattern, relative to the arcuate cutting lines are not constant at the same angle, which in the finished form of a bound inevitable, nevertheless undesirable impairment of the visual appearance, especially in the back facing trouser area leads ,
  • Such a shaped collar offers over the conventional waistband the advantage that it is more attuned to the waist or pelvic contour of the buyer or the buyer of the pants and thus offers a much higher comfort.
  • Such a shaped collar offers over the conventional waistband the advantage that it is more attuned to the waist or pelvic contour of the buyer or the buyer of the pants and thus offers a much higher comfort.
  • Such Formbünde find a strong appeal.
  • mold collars are preferably made by hand.
  • the production of mold bands as mentioned above, associated with a high material consumption.
  • the production of form ties is time-consuming.
  • the production of form ties is also complex and accessible only with great difficulty automation. A clean processing of leading in the bow seams can be ensured only with great effort, if large quantities are to be achieved with consistent quality. Accordingly, molded collars are associated with high production costs.
  • a shaped waistband for a garment such as pants, a skirt or the like, which ensures a visually pleasing appearance.
  • Another aspect is to suggest a waistband that provides a satisfactory fit.
  • the shaping collar should at the same time remain so elastic that a high wearing comfort can be achieved.
  • a garment such as pants, a skirt or the like, having an improved waistband.
  • a waistband for a pair of pants with an inner waistband and an outer waistband.
  • the inner and the outer waistband are straight stripes.
  • the inner and outer waistband are joined together along the waistband upper edge.
  • a shaping waistband for a pair of trousers is produced, in which between the - e.g. in the interconnected and folded state - facing each other inner surfaces of the inner waistband and the outer waistband an additional strip is inserted in the form of an elastic Lesierbandes.
  • This additional strip is so deformable and connected at the same time with the waistband that the waistband upper edge after a treatment step has a shorter length than the waistband bottom edge.
  • there is a typical shape for a mold which is similar to the peripheral surface of a conical disk, although initially the inner and outer band strips have been present as a straight strip.
  • the waistband upper edge may be closed by e.g. 2 cm to 3 cm shorter in length than the waistband lower edge.
  • This difference in length can be even greater in the case of particularly emphasized shaping collars, such as e.g. in the range up to 4 cm to 5 cm.
  • the dreaded crimping of the fabric upper edge immediately adjacent to the upper edge of the trouser waistband which is feared in the case of conventional shaping collars with similarly pronounced differences in length between the upper and lower edges, surprisingly does not occur to the person skilled in the art.
  • a be provided additional insert which is present for example as a band, is placed over the full width of the still unfolded Formbundes on the unfolded inner surface of the Formbundes and fixed with this in the chain.
  • the insert may in this case be, for example, a polyester fleece, which is present in a woven or loosely laid form and coated, for example, with a polyamide solution on the inside of the waistband or the outer fabric and merges with this example when ironing to a unit.
  • the insert can be used, for example, as a DOB waistband insert or as a HAKA waistband insert, as it is known for example in various embodiments by the company Laivers de Picardie GmbH.
  • the insert may comprise, for example, a polyester backing, polyester warp threads and polyester wefts.
  • the carrier material may also consist of a mixture of polyester and polyamide.
  • the existing example of polyamide coating here is at the same time the adhesive material, which ultimately holds together or glued together the outer fabric of the Formbundes or the waistband with the insert fleece.
  • this new, true-to-the-form waistband which has been proposed for the first time, offers the first-class comfort of an elastic waistband and, at the same time, extremely good fit.
  • the invention newly developed Formbund in comparison to conventional waistband resources-saving, material-saving, in particular to save material, can be produced.
  • its production can be done faster, so that expensive working time is saved.
  • the Processing while achieving large quantities are executed much more precise and clean, even by machine, which in turn comes to the appearance and the feel of the waistband to good.
  • the newly developed waistband impresses with its ideal optical solution. Because even in the underpants, the chosen pattern remains intact and does not fall from one line to the other or deviates from the desired figure.
  • the use of the elastic glazing strip also offers the advantage that the shaped strip according to the invention remains elastic with respect to its circumference even after its completion and thus offers the wearer or wearer of such trousers a particularly pronounced wearing comfort.
  • a suitable reading tape is offered for example by the company Gebrüder Stuhr GmbH, belts and bobbin lace in 42111 Wuppertal under the item number 60835/001 with a width of eg 3 mm.
  • the profit from the company profit from Bredford known in England "application” technology in which to achieve the desired later in the finished pants stretch effect by means of "crashing" the Lesierband a permanent elasticity is impressed, which ensures that the elastic Lesierband permanently has a satisfactory return behavior, no matter how often this is a washing process when washing the pants is subjected.
  • the formed as an elastic Lesierband, additional strip is made plastically deformable for a limited time immediately before the deposit between the two federal government strips.
  • This offers the advantage that the composite of inner and outer waistband, possibly supplemented by the insert, with intermediate additional strip in a treatment step, for example by ironing, can be plastically deformed so that the desired shape for a form of waistband results, which is similar in principle to the peripheral surface of a conical disk.
  • an additional strip which is initially not plastically deformable, and only by an additional treatment step, e.g. a targeted heating, is made plastically deformable, there is the further advantage that the final form achieved by the treatment step can be fixed in shape and yet remains elastic and thus ultimately provides the desired high comfort.
  • the additional strip is fixed after its insertion between the two waistband and final heating or treatment by the latter while in the formed collar shape, however, remains elastically deformable. This ensures a high level of comfort in an advantageous manner.
  • this is a particularly accurate fit true shape collar given, which optimally conforms to the body contour of the wearer or the wearer. This will then be reflected in a high level of acceptance in the addressed buyer group.
  • the inner and outer waistband strips are integrally formed from a single straight piece.
  • This offers the advantage that you only need a cut part for the form of collar, instead of the previously required in the art four cutting parts.
  • the unwanted loss of material due to cutting when cutting the only one cut part can be significantly reduced.
  • a made of a cut part inventive Formbund has a smoother or smoother surface than is the case with the classic form of collar.
  • the production of the Formbundes simplifies.
  • the insert may for example consist of tape material in a suitable width and the mold collar are then fixed in chain.
  • the inner and outer waistband strips may consist of two or more straight strips sewn together to form a waistband seam. This offers the advantage of additional freedom of design, since for the observer facing the outside view of the Formbundes another material can be used, as for the Body contour of the wearer or the wearer facing inner surface of the Formbundes.
  • a further preferred embodiment of the Formbundes according to it is proposed that the additional strip is sewn to the waistband, depending on the embodiment previously inserted an insert in the covenant or placed on the inner surface of the federal government and fixed, for example, in chain.
  • This offers the advantage that the introduction of the additional strip procedurally as simple as possible and configured and executed without major difficulties. This leads to a particularly cost-effective production of the Formbundes.
  • the inner waistband strip should consist, for example, of a lining material and the outer waistband strip, for example, of the fabric used to produce the respective trousers.
  • This offers the advantage that either an additional creative freedom can be used, or find the materials used anyway in the production of trousers also in the production of the Formbundes use, with an undesirable diversity of materials can be avoided.
  • the manufacturing process is kept as simple as possible. In combination with the waistband strip, which for the first time is available as a straight strip, this also offers the particular advantage of saving material and time as well as improved seam cleanliness during processing.
  • the deformation of the additional strip for example by means of heating, in particular in the context of ironing, by light or other irradiation, by moistening plus drying, by means of a fixing press or by the like Treatment steps take place.
  • any suitable treatment method can be ideally combined in combination with the production steps already used, for example, in order to obtain the best possible form of the invention.
  • the applicant prefers for shaping due to the particularly simple feasibility and the particularly pronounced cleanliness in processing currently a pronounced as ironing or ironing step treatment process using an elastic Lesierbandes as additional, shaping strips. It can then - after sewing the possibly also integrally present inner and outer band strip and the on or laying the Lesierbandes and possibly a folding of the strip parts - the desired contour of the Formbundes be generated by means of a simple ironing step.
  • the new custom-fit waistband then surprisingly offers the comfort of an elastic waistband.
  • the elastic Lesierband be present as a Einfbusband in the upper edge of the collar, wherein the one-piece collar strip-cut part or the strip parts are made of straight cut parts or made, which are ironed in shape.
  • the production method according to the invention is more fuel-efficient, time-saving and cleaner in the processing of the seams in comparison to conventional production methods.
  • a visually appealing solution in the hind trousers can be achieved because the pattern around so stays as it should.
  • an insert which has at least one auxiliary line, in particular a perforation.
  • the insert may e.g. a polyester non-woven fabric which is in a woven or loose-laid form, e.g. coated with a polyamide solution is applied to the inside of the waistband or the outer fabric and with this example. when ironing merges into one unit.
  • the liner to which, for example, the auxiliary line or the perforation has previously been applied or punched out of this is applied to the inner surfaces of the inner and outer band strip.
  • the auxiliary line or perforation ensures an improved feasibility of the seams as well as the folds.
  • the auxiliary line serves as a visible and / or tactile orientation aid for increased processing accuracy when folding or sewing.
  • the auxiliary line designed as a perforation facilitates exact folding along the folding line provided for this purpose, since the perforation works to a certain extent like a predetermined breaking point or weakening line and facilitates folding and / or sewing along this line.

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Details Of Garments (AREA)
  • Polysaccharides And Polysaccharide Derivatives (AREA)
  • Treatment Of Fiber Materials (AREA)

Claims (16)

  1. Ceinture pour un vêtement, tel qu'un pantalon, une jupe ou similaire, avec un ruban de ceinture intérieur (2) et un ruban de ceinture extérieur (4), le ruban de ceinture intérieur (2) et le ruban de ceinture extérieur (4) étant des rubans droits et les rubans de ceinture intérieurs et extérieurs (2 ; 4) étant reliés entre eux le long d'une arête supérieure de ceinture (6),
    caractérisée en ce que
    la ceinture ainsi générée est une ceinture en forme (1), une bande lisible élastique (18) étant introduite à cet effet entre les surfaces intérieures (20 ; 22) tournées l'une vers l'autre à l'état relié et plié l'un vers l'autre du ruban de ceinture intérieur (2) et du ruban de ceinture extérieur (4), laquelle peut être déformée et est reliée aux rubans de ceinture (2 ; 4) de telle manière que l'arête supérieure de ceinture (6) présente une longueur plus courte que l'arête inférieure de ceinture de sorte qu'il résulte une forme typique pour une ceinture en forme (1) qui est semblable à la surface périphérique d'une poulie à cônes, la bande lisible élastique (18) étant rendue plastiquement déformable avant son insertion entre les deux rubans de ceinture (2 ; 4) par une étape de traitement de sorte que la bande lisible élastique (18) soit certes fixée après son insertion dans la ceinture et le traitement final, en particulier l'échauffement par cette dernière dans la forme de ceinture réalisée mais puisse en outre être déformée plastiquement.
  2. Ceinture en forme selon la revendication 1, caractérisée en ce que les rubans de ceinture intérieurs et extérieurs (2 ; 4) sont constitués intégralement d'une seule bande droite.
  3. Ceinture en forme selon la revendication 1, caractérisée en ce que les rubans de ceinture intérieurs et extérieurs (2 ; 4) se composent de deux rubans droits qui sont cousus entre eux en réalisant une couture de ruban de ceinture.
  4. Ceinture en forme selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 3, caractérisée en ce que la bande lisible élastique (18) est cousue au moins à l'un des rubans de ceinture (2 ; 4).
  5. Ceinture en forme selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 4, caractérisée en ce que la bande lisible élastique (18) est disposée à proximité immédiate ou au moins en partie dans l'arête supérieure de ceinture (6).
  6. Ceinture en forme selon la revendication 3, caractérisée en ce que le ruban de ceinture intérieur (2) se compose d'une doublure et le ruban de ceinture extérieur (4) se compose d'une matière utilisée pour la fabrication du vêtement concerné tel qu'un pantalon ou une jupe.
  7. Ceinture en forme selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 6, caractérisée en ce qu'une insertion est prévue, laquelle présente une ligne subsidiaire (8 ; 10 ; 12), en particulier une perforation.
  8. Procédé de fabrication d'une ceinture pour un vêtement tel qu'un pantalon, une jupe ou similaire, avec un ruban de ceinture intérieur (2) et un ruban de ceinture extérieur (4), le ruban de ceinture intérieur (2) et le ruban de ceinture extérieur (4) se présentant sous la forme de rubans droits et les rubans de ceinture intérieurs et extérieurs (2 ; 4) étant reliés entre eux le long d'une arête supérieure de ceinture (6),
    caractérisé en ce que
    la ceinture ainsi générée est déformée en une ceinture en forme (1), une bande lisible élastique (18) étant introduite à cet effet entre les surfaces intérieures (20 ; 22) tournées l'une vers l'autre à l'état relié et plié l'un vers l'autre du ruban de ceinture intérieur (2) et du ruban de ceinture extérieur (4) et étant reliée aux rubans de ceinture (2; 4), le ruban supplémentaire (18) étant déformé par une étape de traitement consécutive de telle manière que l'arête supérieure de ceinture (6) présente une longueur plus courte que l'arête inférieure de ceinture de sorte qu'il résulte une forme typique pour une ceinture en forme (1) qui est semblable à la surface périphérique d'une poulie à cônes, la bande lisible élastique (18) étant rendue plastiquement déformable avant son insertion entre les deux rubans de ceinture (2 ; 4) par une étape de traitement réalisée auparavant de sorte que la bande lisible élastique (18) soit amenée à la forme souhaitée après son insertion dans la ceinture par une étape de traitement consécutive et soit ensuite fixée dans la forme de ceinture obtenue tout en restant cependant en outre élastiquement déformable.
  9. Procédé selon la revendication 8, caractérisé en ce que les rubans de ceinture intérieurs et extérieurs (2 ; 4) sont fabriqués intégralement en un seul ruban droit.
  10. Procédé selon la revendication 8, caractérisé en ce que les rubans de ceinture intérieurs et extérieurs (2 ; 4) sont constitués de deux bandes droites, de préférence sont cousus entre eux en réalisant une couture de ruban de ceinture.
  11. Procédé selon l'une quelconque des revendications 8 à 10, caractérisé en ce que la bande lisible (18) élastique est cousue au moins à l'un des rubans de ceinture.
  12. Procédé selon l'une quelconque des revendications 8 à 11, caractérisé en ce que la bande lisible (18) élastique est disposée à proximité directe ou au moins en partie dans l'arête supérieure de ceinture (6).
  13. Procédé selon la revendication 10, caractérisé en ce que comme matériau pour le ruban de ceinture intérieur (2) est sélectionnée une doublure et comme matériau pour le ruban de ceinture extérieur (4) est
    sélectionné le matériau utilisé pour la fabrication du vêtement concerné tel qu'un pantalon ou une jupe.
  14. Procédé selon l'une quelconque des revendications 8 à 13, caractérisé en ce que l'étape de traitement comporte une étape d'échauffement, en particulier un processus de repassage, un processus d'irradiation avec une énergie lumineuse ou autre énergie rayonnante, une phase d'humidification plus de séchage ou similaire.
  15. Procédé selon l'une quelconque des revendications 8 à 14, caractérisé en ce qu'une insertion est appliquée sur les surfaces intérieures (20 ; 22) du ruban de ceinture intérieur et extérieur (2 ; 4), laquelle présente une ligne subsidiaire (8 ; 10 ; 12), en particulier une perforation.
  16. Vêtement tel qu'un pantalon, une jupe ou similaire avec une ceinture en forme (1) selon au moins l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 7.
EP06777094A 2005-09-01 2006-08-28 Ceinture en forme pour un vetement, procede de production a cet effet et vetement pourvu d'une telle ceinture en forme Not-in-force EP1919315B1 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
DE102005041599A DE102005041599A1 (de) 2005-09-01 2005-09-01 Formbund für ein Kleidungsstück, wie beispielsweise eine Hose, ein Rock oder dergleichen, Herstellungsverfahren hierfür sowie Kleidungsstück mit einem solchen Formbund
PCT/EP2006/008409 WO2007025701A1 (fr) 2005-09-01 2006-08-28 Ceinture en forme pour un vetement, procede de production a cet effet et vetement pourvu d'une telle ceinture en forme

Publications (2)

Publication Number Publication Date
EP1919315A1 EP1919315A1 (fr) 2008-05-14
EP1919315B1 true EP1919315B1 (fr) 2011-01-12

Family

ID=37189938

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
EP06777094A Not-in-force EP1919315B1 (fr) 2005-09-01 2006-08-28 Ceinture en forme pour un vetement, procede de production a cet effet et vetement pourvu d'une telle ceinture en forme

Country Status (4)

Country Link
EP (1) EP1919315B1 (fr)
AT (1) ATE494809T1 (fr)
DE (2) DE102005041599A1 (fr)
WO (1) WO2007025701A1 (fr)

Families Citing this family (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2011155813A1 (fr) * 2010-06-10 2011-12-15 Mackenzy Joseph Ceinture à lanières multiples permettant d'obtenir différents aspects visuels
US10188163B2 (en) 2014-11-14 2019-01-29 Nike, Inc. Double-layer trim piece
GB202013272D0 (en) 2020-08-25 2020-10-07 Gymshark Ltd Knitted fabric band and garment

Family Cites Families (10)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
DE7239903U (de) * 1973-03-15 Frick N Kg Hosenbund
DE7314935U (de) * 1973-07-19 Axella Textilwerk Nierhaus H Gurtband fur Rock und Hosenbund
US3745588A (en) * 1971-08-09 1973-07-17 Winterj Inc Article of clothing and method of making same
GB1463400A (en) * 1974-04-20 1977-02-02 Britton Co Ltd E Waist band strip
FR2340065A1 (fr) * 1976-02-04 1977-09-02 Lebeurre Bernard Procede de montage de ceintures en forme pour vetements tels que pantalons, jupes et analogues, et machine a coudre adaptee au procede
JPS53106243A (en) * 1977-02-25 1978-09-16 Nobuhiro Michimae Method of producing belt core cloth having latent curve
US4146934A (en) * 1977-09-29 1979-04-03 Leslie Cohen Curved finishing band for garments
IE69657B1 (en) * 1993-02-24 1996-10-02 Hillhead Clothing Company Method and apparatus for garment manufacturing
EP0945535A3 (fr) * 1998-03-26 2001-08-01 Robert William Arthur Dagg Matériau élastique et éléments incurvés de vêtements ainsi que leurs procédés et dispositifs de fabrication
GB9807861D0 (en) * 1998-04-15 1998-06-10 Pro Fit Int Ltd Improvements in fabric composites

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
DE102005041599A1 (de) 2007-03-08
DE502006008724D1 (de) 2011-02-24
ATE494809T1 (de) 2011-01-15
WO2007025701A1 (fr) 2007-03-08
EP1919315A1 (fr) 2008-05-14

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