EP1919315A1 - Ceinture en forme pour un vetement, procede de production a cet effet et vetement pourvu d'une telle ceinture en forme - Google Patents

Ceinture en forme pour un vetement, procede de production a cet effet et vetement pourvu d'une telle ceinture en forme

Info

Publication number
EP1919315A1
EP1919315A1 EP06777094A EP06777094A EP1919315A1 EP 1919315 A1 EP1919315 A1 EP 1919315A1 EP 06777094 A EP06777094 A EP 06777094A EP 06777094 A EP06777094 A EP 06777094A EP 1919315 A1 EP1919315 A1 EP 1919315A1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
waistband
collar
strip
strips
additional strip
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Granted
Application number
EP06777094A
Other languages
German (de)
English (en)
Other versions
EP1919315B1 (fr
Inventor
Thomas Ballweg
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
GARDEUR GmbH
Original Assignee
Gardeur AG
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Gardeur AG filed Critical Gardeur AG
Publication of EP1919315A1 publication Critical patent/EP1919315A1/fr
Application granted granted Critical
Publication of EP1919315B1 publication Critical patent/EP1919315B1/fr
Not-in-force legal-status Critical Current
Anticipated expiration legal-status Critical

Links

Classifications

    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41WEARING APPAREL
    • A41FGARMENT FASTENINGS; SUSPENDERS
    • A41F9/00Belts, girdles, or waistbands for trousers or skirts
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41WEARING APPAREL
    • A41FGARMENT FASTENINGS; SUSPENDERS
    • A41F9/00Belts, girdles, or waistbands for trousers or skirts
    • A41F9/02Expansible or adjustable belts or girdles ; Adjustable fasteners comprising a track and a slide member

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a shaped waistband for a garment, such as a pair of trousers, a skirt or the like, according to claim 1, 10, a method for producing such a shaped waistband according to claim 12 and a garment with such a shaped waistband according to claim 23.
  • An ordinary waistband for example for men's trousers, consists of an inner waistband and an outer waistband.
  • the 25 inner waistband and the outer waistband are prefabricated as straight strips or straight cut parts from the material used to make the pants.
  • the waistband strips which are in the form of straight cut pieces, are sewn together along the respective upper edge of the inner and outer waistband strips along a waistband seam.
  • the waistband top edge with the waistband seam has the same length as the bottom trouser waistband edge, i.e., a contour typical of a conventional waistband similar to the peripheral surface of a cylindrical disk or disk is obtained.
  • Such classic waistband shapes are commonly used for men's trousers or slacks of slim sizes. It can be the classic
  • Waistband may be improved as inadequate comfort by the fact that an elastic binding tape is sewn into the upper edge of the bundle. This provides, albeit limited, additional elasticity in
  • Circumferential direction of the waistband and thus slightly improves the comfort of the trousers when wearing, by the waistband circumference covered in a limited range depending on the attitude of the wearer varying circumference of the waistband
  • Body area (lower abdomen, waist or upper hip area) can yield.
  • the inner and outer waistband are not in the form of straight stripes Circular ring segments cut out of the fabric as cut parts and fed to further processing.
  • Shaped bands are cut four shaped waistband parts from the fabric layer. These four
  • Formbundmaschine are then in the rough section and ultimately give the inner and outer waistband
  • hu next step is often an insert, for example, from a thin polyester fleece or the like in a Formbund appropriate shape cut.
  • the shaped waistbands (inner and outer waistband) cut from the fabric layer are fixed, ie joined together, and then cut to the desired original size.
  • the inner and the outer waistband are sewn together at the upper edge.
  • the non-elastic Lisierband is quilted in the upper edge of the inner waistband or in the upper edge inner waistband.
  • the covenant is ironed out.
  • the lower edge of the inner collar is about 1 cm taken and quilted or alternatively not beaten, but - possibly with a binding tape - bordered or re-staked or linked.
  • the formbund is thus ready for further processing.
  • Bundstrings inevitably produce a significant blend that is too unwanted
  • Cut must be made in two stages (rough cut, fine cut). This results in a considerable additional consumption of outer fabric and deposits. Last but not least, this procedure is complex in terms of processing.
  • patterns such as line, hatching or
  • Such a shaped collar offers over the conventional waistband the advantage that it is more attuned to the waist or pelvic contour of the buyer or the buyer of the pants and thus offers a much higher comfort.
  • Such a shaped collar offers over the conventional waistband the advantage that it is more attuned to the waist or pelvic contour of the buyer or the buyer of the pants and thus offers a much higher comfort.
  • Such Formbünde find a strong appeal.
  • the stiff waist seam is not elastic and presses depending on the position in the worst case in the waist or in the lower abdomen, which is perceived as unpleasant.
  • customers often experience unsatisfactory compliance with fit, since the shaped waistband in the area of the hind trousers often projects away from the body contour of the wearer or wearer in the back region, instead of clinging to them.
  • mold collars are preferably made by hand.
  • the production of mold bands as mentioned above, associated with a high material consumption.
  • the production of form ties is time-consuming.
  • the production of form ties is also complex and accessible only with great difficulty automation. A clean processing of leading in the bow seams can be ensured only with great effort, if large quantities are to be achieved with consistent quality. Accordingly, molded collars are associated with high production costs.
  • Garment such as trousers, a skirt or the like, with an improved waistband.
  • the present invention will be described by way of example on a waistband.
  • the invention and the discussion led to this is not limited to pants, but applies analogously to skirts or similar garments, as is known from the
  • a waistband for a pair of pants with an inner waistband and an outer waistband.
  • the inner and the outer waistband are straight stripes.
  • the inner and outer waistband are joined together along the waistband upper edge.
  • a shaping waistband for a pair of trousers is produced, in which an additional strip is inserted between the inner surfaces of the inner waistband and the outer waistband facing one another, for example in the connected and folded-together state.
  • This additional strip is so deformable and connected at the same time with the waistband that the waistband upper edge after a treatment step has a shorter length than the waistband bottom edge.
  • there is a typical shape for a mold which is similar to the peripheral surface of a conical disk, although initially the inner and outer band strips have been present as a straight strip.
  • the waistband upper edge may be closed by e.g. 2 cm to 3 cm shorter in length than the waistband lower edge.
  • This difference in length can be even greater in the case of particularly emphasized shaping collars, such as e.g. in the range up to 4 cm to 5 cm.
  • the dreaded crimping of the fabric upper edge immediately adjacent to the upper edge of the trouser waistband which is feared in the case of conventional shaping collars with similarly pronounced differences in length between the upper and lower edges, surprisingly does not occur to the person skilled in the art.
  • the Formbundes can be provided between the mutually facing inner surfaces of the inner and outer band strip an additional liner, which is present for example as a band, placed over the full width of the still unfolded Formbundes on the unfolded inner surface of the Formbundes and fixed with this in chain becomes.
  • insert can be, for example, a polyester fleece, which is present in a woven or loosely laid form and, for example, coated with a polyamide solution, is placed on the inside of the fret strip or the outer fabric and merges with it, for example during ironing, to form a unit.
  • the insert can be used, for example, as a DOB waistband insert or as a HAKA waistband insert, as it is known for example in various embodiments by the company Lainiere de Picardie GmbH.
  • the insert may comprise, for example, a polyester backing, polyester warp threads and polyester wefts.
  • the carrier material may also consist of a mixture of polyester and polyamide.
  • the existing example of polyamide coating here is at the same time the adhesive material, which ultimately holds together or glued together the outer fabric of the Formbundes or the waistband with the insert fleece.
  • this new, true-to-the-form waistband which has been proposed for the first time, offers the first-class comfort of an elastic waistband and, at the same time, extremely good fit. Because all the output parts of the new
  • Formbundes are present as straight cut parts, which after the
  • the invention newly developed Formbund in comparison to conventional waistband resources-saving, material-saving, in particular to save material, can be produced.
  • its production can be done faster, so that expensive working time is saved.
  • the processing can be performed while achieving large quantities much more precise and clean, even by machine, which in turn the appearance and the feel of the waistband comes to good.
  • trousers with a pattern that is not designed uni, so in a trouser with a stripe or check pattern the newly developed
  • Molded collar by its ideal optical solution. Because even in the underpants, the chosen pattern remains unadulterated and does not fall from one line to the other or deviates from the desired figure.
  • the inner and outer waistband strips are integrally formed from a single straight piece. This offers the advantage that you only need a cut part for the form of collar, instead of the previously required in the art four cutting parts. Thus, the unwanted loss of material due to cutting when cutting the only one cut part can be significantly reduced.
  • a manufactured from a cut piece according to the invention
  • Formbund has a smoother and smoother surface than is the case with the classic formwork.
  • the production of the Formbundes simplifies.
  • the insert may for example consist of tape material in a suitable width and the mold collar are then fixed in chain.
  • the inner and outer waistband strips may consist of two or more straight strips sewn together to form a waistband seam. This offers the advantage of additional freedom of design, since a different material can be used for the exterior view of the form waist facing the viewer than for the inner surface of the form waist facing the body contour of the wearer or the wearer.
  • a further preferred embodiment of the Formbundes according to it is proposed that the additional strip is sewn to the waistband, depending on the embodiment previously inserted an insert in the covenant or placed on the inner surface of the federal government and fixed, for example, in chain.
  • This offers the advantage that the introduction of the additional strip procedurally as simple as possible and configured and executed without major difficulties. This leads to a particularly cost-effective production of the Formbundes.
  • the additional strip is an elastic reading belt.
  • Pants offers a particularly pronounced comfort.
  • a suitable for this reading tape is, for example, from the company
  • Perlonbmixchen be used.
  • suitable elastic Perlonbändchen are also offered by the company Gebrüder Stuhr GmbH, tapes and bobbin lace in 42111 Wuppertal.
  • it can also be thought of a band or a strip of a so-called "memory plastic or related materials, which is present as a straight additional strip before the treatment step and occupies the desired contour of the Formbundes after the treatment step as a shaping support element.
  • the additional strip formed in particular as an elastic reading belt is made plastically deformable for a limited time immediately before its insertion between the two band strips.
  • Strip which is initially not plastically deformable by itself, and only by an additional treatment step, e.g. a targeted heating, is made plastically deformable, there is the further advantage that by the
  • Treatment step achieved final shape at the same time can be fixed in shape and yet remains elastic and thus ultimately provides the desired high comfort.
  • the additional strip in particular provided with regard to the elastic tape Lesierband that the additional strip is fixed after its insertion between the two waistband and final heating or treatment by the latter while in the formed collar shape, but still remains elastically deformable. This ensures a high level of comfort in an advantageous manner.
  • this is a particularly accurate fit true shape collar given, which optimally conforms to the body contour of the wearer or the wearer. This will then be reflected in a high level of acceptance in the addressed buyer group.
  • the inner waistband strip should consist, for example, of a lining material and the outer waistband strip, for example, of the fabric used to produce the respective trousers.
  • This offers the advantage that either an additional creative freedom can be used, or find the materials used anyway in the production of trousers also in the production of the Formbundes use, with an undesirable diversity of materials can be avoided.
  • the manufacturing process is kept as simple as possible. In combination with the waistband strip, which for the first time is available as a straight strip, this also offers the particular advantage of saving material and time as well as improved seam cleanliness during processing.
  • the deformation of the additional strip for example by means of heating, in particular in the context of a pressing operation, by means of light or other irradiation by means of
  • Treatment steps take place. This offers the advantage that, depending on the material of the additional strip used any suitable treatment method in combination with the example already for Applied manufacturing steps can be ideally combined to get the best possible shape of the invention.
  • the applicant prefers for shaping due to the particularly simple feasibility and the particularly pronounced cleanliness in processing currently a pronounced as ironing or ironing step treatment process using an elastic Lesierbandes as additional, shaping strips. It can then - after sewing the possibly also integrally present inner and outer band strip and the on or laying the Lesierbandes and possibly a folding of the strip parts - the desired contour of the Formbundes be generated by means of a simple ironing step.
  • the new custom-fit waistband then surprisingly offers the comfort of an elastic waistband.
  • the elastic Lesierband can be present as Einfbusband in the upper edge of the collar, wherein the one-piece collar strip-section or the strip parts are made of straight cut parts or made, which are ironed in shape.
  • the production method according to the invention is more fuel-efficient, time-saving and cleaner in the processing of the seams in comparison to conventional production methods.
  • a visually appealing solution in the hind trousers can be achieved because the pattern around so stays as it should.
  • an insert which has at least one auxiliary line, in particular a perforation.
  • the insert may e.g. a polyester non-woven fabric which is in a woven or loose-laid form, e.g. coated with a polyamide solution is applied to the inside of the waistband or the outer fabric and with this example. when ironing merges into one unit.
  • the liner to which, for example, the auxiliary line or the perforation has previously been applied or punched out of this is applied to the inner surfaces of the inner and outer band strip.
  • the auxiliary line or perforation ensures an improved feasibility of the seams as well as the folds.
  • the auxiliary line serves as a visible and / or tactile orientation aid for increased processing accuracy when folding or sewing.
  • the auxiliary line designed as a perforation facilitates exact folding along the folding line provided for this purpose, since the perforation works to a certain extent like a predetermined breaking point or weakening line and facilitates folding and / or sewing along this line.
  • Fig. 1 is a schematically simplified plan view of a first exemplary
  • Fig. 2 is a schematically simplified plan view of a second exemplary embodiment of the Formbundes with a present as a multipiece straight section inner and outer waistband.
  • the form collar 1 in the embodiment shown in FIG. 1, consists of an integrally present federal government strip, which can nevertheless be mentally subdivided into an inner federal government strip 2 and outer federal government strip 4 for a simpler understanding, whereas FIG 2 in the second exemplary embodiment shown there, the inner waistband 2 and the outer waistband 4 are shown as separate straight strips, still unsewned side by side.
  • the illustrated in Fig. 1, consisting of the inner and outer waistband strips 2 and 4 one-piece waistband strip is a straight cut part.
  • Waistband upper edge (6) is formed when folding the waistband.
  • a perforated auxiliary line 8 is provided for this purpose in order to improve the accuracy.
  • Additional guides 10 and 12 are also provided to improve accuracy in sewing and / or folding.
  • the perforation auxiliary lines 8, 10 and 12 may, for example, have a line thickness of 0.1 cm, the line lengths being, for example, 1.9 cm and the length of the intermediate spaces may be 0.6 cm, for example.
  • the auxiliary lines designed as perforations can be designed, for example, already in the insert, which is not shown here in more detail or distinguished graphically, as recesses or punches located therein.
  • the straight cut piece shown in Fig. 1, in the embodiment shown here, has a width of e.g. 9.4 cm and ultimately gives one
  • Molded collar 1 with a width of e.g. 3.3 cm. Here lies the perforated auxiliary line
  • cut parts also result in a shaping collar 1 with a width in the range of, for example, 3.3 cm.
  • an additional strip 18 is placed on the inner surface 20 of the inner waistband strip 2.
  • a deposit not shown here for example, as a band, which, depending on the embodiment, the inner surface 20 of the inner waistband 2 and / or the inner surface 22 of the outer waistband 4 partially or completely covered or possibly depending on the variant, only the remaining inner surface 20 of the inner fret strip 2 not covered by the additional strip 18 covers.
  • the inner surface 22 of the outer waistband 4 may remain free, for example in an exemplary embodiment of the Formbundes 1 and be completely covered in the embodiment discussed in Fig. 1 and in Fig. 2 embodiment of the insert.
  • the additional strip 18 may, for example, be an elastic reading belt.
  • the additional strip 18, selected as the elastic reading tape with a width of e.g. Sewed 0.3 cm and the waistband brought to the exact Thomashow.
  • the length of the additional strip 18 depends i.a. from the waist or the trouser or skirt size to be produced.
  • the additional strip in particular the elastic reading belt, can be guided under a small longitudinal tension or acted upon or held by a force acting in the longitudinal direction on the waistband cut part.
  • the additional strip 18 relaxes relative to the waistband upper edge 6 facing portion of the waistband-cut portion, so that thereby the typical for a form waistband, desired difference in length between the waistband Top edge 6 and waistband bottom edge yields.
  • the additional strip 18 can be guided or held in the longitudinal direction on the waistband cut part without being subjected to an additional force, in which case the waistband cut part is at the same time slightly compressed during sewing, so that in this way the typical shape of a waistband, desired length difference between the waistband upper edge 6 and the waistband bottom edge results.
  • the achievable in the two above-mentioned procedures results can be fixed in the form of the subsequent treatment step or, if necessary, even more pronounced and fixed.
  • the additional strip 18 and the waistband cut-section can be sewn cleanly without additional forces in the longitudinal direction and compression without compression, in which case the desired difference in length completely in the subsequent treatment step, for example, when ironing is achieved.
  • FIG. 1 based on a first exemplary embodiment and in FIG. 2 with reference to a second exemplary embodiment
  • Embodiment discussed invention provides a waistband for a pair of trousers, with an inner and outer waistband strips 2 and 4, respectively, in which the inner and outer waistband strips 2 and 4 are joined together and along a waistband upper edge 6.
  • the trouser waistband thus produced is a shaping waistband 1, wherein for this purpose between the mutually connected and folded-together state facing each other
  • Waistband 2; 4 is connected, that the waistband upper edge 6 has a shorter length than the waistband bottom edge, so that one for a
  • Formbund 1 gives a typical shape that is similar to the peripheral surface of a cone pulley. Furthermore, a production method for this purpose is specified and a trouser designed with it is discussed. This is a comparison with conventional Formbünden significant savings in fabric and liner material achievable. It is a rational production possible, especially since the frets can be fixed in chain.
  • the upper edge of the waistband is much thinner than conventional form ties. Checked or striped fabric results in a harmonious picture also in the area of the hind trousers. The upper edge of the form collar lies in the back area.

Landscapes

  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Details Of Garments (AREA)
  • Treatment Of Fiber Materials (AREA)
  • Polysaccharides And Polysaccharide Derivatives (AREA)
EP06777094A 2005-09-01 2006-08-28 Ceinture en forme pour un vetement, procede de production a cet effet et vetement pourvu d'une telle ceinture en forme Not-in-force EP1919315B1 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
DE102005041599A DE102005041599A1 (de) 2005-09-01 2005-09-01 Formbund für ein Kleidungsstück, wie beispielsweise eine Hose, ein Rock oder dergleichen, Herstellungsverfahren hierfür sowie Kleidungsstück mit einem solchen Formbund
PCT/EP2006/008409 WO2007025701A1 (fr) 2005-09-01 2006-08-28 Ceinture en forme pour un vetement, procede de production a cet effet et vetement pourvu d'une telle ceinture en forme

Publications (2)

Publication Number Publication Date
EP1919315A1 true EP1919315A1 (fr) 2008-05-14
EP1919315B1 EP1919315B1 (fr) 2011-01-12

Family

ID=37189938

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
EP06777094A Not-in-force EP1919315B1 (fr) 2005-09-01 2006-08-28 Ceinture en forme pour un vetement, procede de production a cet effet et vetement pourvu d'une telle ceinture en forme

Country Status (4)

Country Link
EP (1) EP1919315B1 (fr)
AT (1) ATE494809T1 (fr)
DE (2) DE102005041599A1 (fr)
WO (1) WO2007025701A1 (fr)

Families Citing this family (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
GB2490609B (en) * 2010-06-10 2016-01-20 Global Innovation Services Inc Belt with multiple straps for different looks
US10188163B2 (en) * 2014-11-14 2019-01-29 Nike, Inc. Double-layer trim piece
GB202013272D0 (en) 2020-08-25 2020-10-07 Gymshark Ltd Knitted fabric band and garment

Family Cites Families (10)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
DE7239903U (de) * 1973-03-15 Frick N Kg Hosenbund
DE7314935U (de) * 1973-07-19 Axella Textilwerk Nierhaus H Gurtband fur Rock und Hosenbund
US3745588A (en) * 1971-08-09 1973-07-17 Winterj Inc Article of clothing and method of making same
GB1463400A (en) * 1974-04-20 1977-02-02 Britton Co Ltd E Waist band strip
FR2340065A1 (fr) * 1976-02-04 1977-09-02 Lebeurre Bernard Procede de montage de ceintures en forme pour vetements tels que pantalons, jupes et analogues, et machine a coudre adaptee au procede
JPS53106243A (en) * 1977-02-25 1978-09-16 Nobuhiro Michimae Method of producing belt core cloth having latent curve
US4146934A (en) * 1977-09-29 1979-04-03 Leslie Cohen Curved finishing band for garments
IE69657B1 (en) * 1993-02-24 1996-10-02 Hillhead Clothing Company Method and apparatus for garment manufacturing
EP0945535A3 (fr) * 1998-03-26 2001-08-01 Robert William Arthur Dagg Matériau élastique et éléments incurvés de vêtements ainsi que leurs procédés et dispositifs de fabrication
GB9807861D0 (en) * 1998-04-15 1998-06-10 Pro Fit Int Ltd Improvements in fabric composites

Non-Patent Citations (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Title
See references of WO2007025701A1 *

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
WO2007025701A1 (fr) 2007-03-08
DE102005041599A1 (de) 2007-03-08
ATE494809T1 (de) 2011-01-15
EP1919315B1 (fr) 2011-01-12
DE502006008724D1 (de) 2011-02-24

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