EP1136003A1 - Einbügelbares Textiles Trägermaterial und Verfahren zur Herstellung desselben - Google Patents

Einbügelbares Textiles Trägermaterial und Verfahren zur Herstellung desselben Download PDF

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Publication number
EP1136003A1
EP1136003A1 EP01400486A EP01400486A EP1136003A1 EP 1136003 A1 EP1136003 A1 EP 1136003A1 EP 01400486 A EP01400486 A EP 01400486A EP 01400486 A EP01400486 A EP 01400486A EP 1136003 A1 EP1136003 A1 EP 1136003A1
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EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
filaments
textile support
different
shrinkage rate
textile
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Granted
Application number
EP01400486A
Other languages
English (en)
French (fr)
Other versions
EP1136003B1 (de
Inventor
Jean Lefebvre
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Lainiere de Picardie BC SAS
Original Assignee
Lainiere de Picardie SA
Lainiere de Picardie BC SAS
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
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Application filed by Lainiere de Picardie SA, Lainiere de Picardie BC SAS filed Critical Lainiere de Picardie SA
Publication of EP1136003A1 publication Critical patent/EP1136003A1/de
Application granted granted Critical
Publication of EP1136003B1 publication Critical patent/EP1136003B1/de
Anticipated expiration legal-status Critical
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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41—WEARING APPAREL
    • A41D—OUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
    • A41D27/00—Details of garments or of their making
    • A41D27/02—Linings
    • A41D27/06—Stiffening-pieces
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/50—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/567—Shapes or effects upon shrinkage

Definitions

  • the invention relates to a fusible textile support and to its process Manufacturing.
  • Iron-on interfacing products are commonly used today in the textile industry, mainly as reinforcement fabrics. Their application, carried out in particular by laminating on the linings of the clothes or on the draperies, allows to modify the characteristics of the fabrics, especially their shaping and stabilization but also their touch, flexibility and nervousness.
  • such textile supports can be formed from textured yarns, in particular multifilament yarns, because of the particular advantages brought by texturing.
  • this development requires interlining with a certain flexibility and a soft touch while having mechanical characteristics, in particular resilience and elasticity, sufficient to fulfill its function reinforcement.
  • the invention therefore aims to remedy these drawbacks by proposing a support fusible textile which is versatile by presenting a large volume, a some flexibility, a soft touch and mechanical characteristics optimal so that it can be laminated over a wide range of clothing or drapery while retaining their characteristics initials while giving them complementary performances essential for their comfort and maintenance.
  • the invention provides a textile support for fusible interlining, of the type formed by a fabric, a knitted fabric or a knitted woven fabric, in which the weft threads and / or the warp threads of said support are formed of at least two types of continuous textured filaments including at least the filaments of one of the types has a different shrinkage rate than that of the filaments of other types.
  • the textile support has undergone a finishing treatment after weaving or knitting comprising a retraction step so as to give it the characteristics final, especially in terms of volume.
  • the filaments of a first type have a rate retraction less than 30% and filaments of a second type a rate of retraction between 30% and 60%.
  • the filaments are made of materials different synthetics depending on the type to which they belong.
  • the filaments with the lowest shrinkage rate are formed of polyester or polyamide 6.6 and the filaments having the rate of most important retraction are formed of poly butylene terephthalate, polybutadiene, polyamide 6, polypropylene or acrylic.
  • the filaments have a density of crimps of different texturing depending on the type to which they belong.
  • the filaments with the lowest shrinkage rate then have a density less frizz than filaments with the rate of shrinkage Most important.
  • the filaments have a different titration in depending on the type to which they belong. For example, filaments with lowest shrinkage rate have lower titration than filaments with the highest retraction rate, for example of the order of 1.5 Dtex.
  • Figure 1 is a schematic and flat view of a wire used in the supports textiles of the prior art, namely formed from a single type of filaments.
  • Figure 2 is a schematic and flat view of a wire formed of two types of continuous textured filaments of which the filaments of one of the types have a shrinkage rate different from that of filaments of the other type. The wire is shown after the retraction step.
  • Figure 3 is a schematic and flat view of the association of several of the wires shown in Figure 1 in warp or weft, showing the spacing that exists between these sons.
  • Figure 4 is a schematic and flat view of the association of several of the wires shown in Figure 2 in warp or weft, showing the spacing that exists between these sons.
  • a textile support for fusible interlining is made of a fabric, a knitted fabric knitted or knitted mesh which are obtained respectively by weaving or knitting of warp threads and weft threads 1.
  • the knitted fabrics are, for example, knitted or knitted fabrics jetties (chain or Raschel) and knitted fabrics knitted with knitted fabrics jetties into which a wire is inserted at the time of forming the mesh of weft 1 over the entire width of the knitted fabric in different weaving weaves such as chain or single knit.
  • the textile support comprises a discontinuous layer of hot-melt polymer arranged on one of its faces so that it can be associated with the piece of garment he must strengthen.
  • the application of the hot-melt layer is for example carried out by classic spot coating techniques, among which the following may be mentioned: printing techniques in the rotary frame of a dispersion of fine powders hot melt polymers in aqueous phase.
  • the density of the dots deposited on the textile support can vary between 20 and 170 points per square centimeter depending on the nature of the piece of clothing to be reinforced.
  • the textile support can then be laminated via the layer hot-melt, especially on clothing linings or draperies strengthen.
  • the weft threads and / or the warp threads 1 of the textile support are formed from at least two types of continuous textured filaments 2, 3 of which minus filaments 2 of one of the types have a different shrinkage rate that of filaments 3 of other types.
  • the texturing of the filaments 2, 3 is obtained by using, for example, a classic false twist texturing technique.
  • the wires 1 are then obtained by slight intermingling of the different types of continuous textured filaments 2, 3.
  • the filaments can be textured in the same texturing machine, with a crimp density identical or not, to be intertwined at the exit of their respective sector.
  • the textile support is intended to undergo, after weaving or knitting, a treatment finishing including a retraction step.
  • the purpose of this step is to give the textile support its final characteristics, in particular in terms of volume, due to swelling of the wires 1.
  • retraction rate is meant the ratio between the length of the filament continuous 2, 3 before and after the shrinkage treatment of said filament 2, 3.
  • the filaments 2, 3 consist of different plastics so as to have a shrinkage rate different.
  • the filaments 2, 3 have a density of crimps of different textures so as to present a rate of shrinkage different.
  • the filaments 2, 3 have a density of crimps of different texturing which gives different shrinking capacities. This difference in density of crimps can be obtained in a first phase of false texturing twist separately on each of the filament parts 2, 3 of the same density crimps.
  • the filaments 2, 3 are then assembled by slight intermingling to manufacture the yarn 1 intended to form the warp and / or the weft of the textile support according to the invention.
  • the synthetic materials forming the filaments 2, 3 can be identical or different depending on the density of crimps, for example the filaments 2, 3 can be formed from any of the types of polymers mentioned in the table presented above.
  • the filaments 2, 3 have a different titration so that you have a different rate of withdrawal.
  • the synthetic materials forming the filaments 2, 3 can be identical or different depending on the titration, for example the filaments 2, 3 can be formed from any of the types of polymers listed in the table presented above.
  • a first and a second type of polyester filaments having a titration respectively of the order of 1.5 Dtex and of the order of 3 Dtex so as to present a different rate of retraction.
  • the filaments of the first type then have a lower retraction rate than filaments of the second type.
  • the modification of the retraction rate of the filaments 2, 3 is obtained by combining the three embodiments set out above, namely by using filaments 2, 3 formed from different synthetic materials, having a different density of texturing crimps as well as a titration different.
  • the yarns 1 of the textile support can be formed of more than two types of continuous textured filaments 2, 3, for example three each having a different retraction rate, so as to further improve the versatility of textile supports according to the invention.
  • warp and / or weft yarns 1 of a textile support with at at least two types of continuous textured filaments 2, 3 each having a rate of different retraction also makes it possible to adapt the characteristics of said support for the functions referred to in the context of its use.
  • flexibility and soft touch can be achieved by choice of a polymer such as polyamides and / or by low titration filaments.
  • Resilience elasticity to curvature or bending
  • large titration filaments for example greater than 3 Dtex, and / or by the use of polymers having stiffness or flexural strength characteristics more important.
  • the final titration of wire 1 will be adapted to the functions expected for the textile support. For example, it will be around 22 Dtex for the interlining of light draperies for blouses and up to 800 Dtex for example for covering jackets or coats.
  • the number as well as the percentage of the different filaments 2, 3 component the wire 1 is generally chosen according to the resilience or the elasticity, volume and flexibility desired for the textile support.
  • the textile support is formed from warp threads and threads weft 1 which are woven or knitted in the form of a fabric, knitted fabric or a knitted mesh knit.
  • Yarns 1 formed from at least two types of continuous textured filaments 2, 3 of which filaments 3 of one of the types have a different shrinkage rate from that of the filaments 2 of the other type can be used either in weft or in chain, either in weft and chain.
  • the other wires 4 are then of the type conventional, textured or not, for example formed from several filaments 5 all with the same withdrawal rate.
  • the chain and / or the weft is not 100% formed with such yarns 1 but includes a alternative association of these wires 1 with conventional, textured wires 4 or not.
  • the chain of the textile support of the first example is replaced by a thread comprising 7 textured filaments formed from a single synthetic material.
  • the textile supports according to the invention can comprise, in particular associated in a conventional manner on the face of the support opposite the layer of hot-melt polymer, a layer of nonwoven so as to improve still its volume.
  • the different textile supports after weaving or knitting, undergo a finishing treatment comprising a retraction step so that their confer the final characteristics, in particular in terms of volume.
  • the difference in retraction between the filaments 2, 3 combined to form thread 1 induces an increase in undulations of the filaments 3 having the lowest shrinkage so as to increase the gap between the filaments 2, 3 and therefore increase the volume of the wire 1.
  • This increase is more particularly visible in comparison with a wire 4 formed of a single type of filament 5, as shown in FIG. 1.
  • the increase in volume i.e. in diameter, lowers the density of the wire 1 which gives the interfacing the desired voluminous feel and lightness.
  • the spacing 6 between the weft threads and / or chain 1 of the textile support is reduced compared to the prior art ( Figure 3) which provides the desired coverage for the textile support of so as in particular to prevent the crossings of hot-melt polymer to through said support during its lamination.
  • Such yarns 1 also offer maximum flexibility, wrinkle resistance and of elasticity.
  • the textile support is produced by weaving or knitting of the textile support with weft threads and / or warp threads 1 formed from at least two types of continuous textured filaments 2, 3, at least the filaments 2 of one of the types has a different retraction rate than that filaments 3 of the other type.
  • each type of filaments 2, 3 forming the warp and / or weft yarns 1 of the textile support are defined, as indicated above, according to the characteristics referred to in the application of the textile support.
  • the textile support undergoes a finishing treatment comprising at least one retraction step.
  • This step is conventionally carried out either in a thermal medium or by spraying or in an aqueous medium. It allows an increase in volume of wires 1 and therefore the coverage sought by reducing spaces 6 between the threads 1 of the textile support.
  • This step can also comprise washing, dyeing, drying and then a heat-stabilizing stabilization of the textile support.
  • the textile support is made iron-on by depositing a discontinuous layer of hot-melt polymer on at least one of the faces of said support.
  • This layer is arranged in the form of points and is formed for example co-polyamides, co-polyester, polyurethane, polyethylene or other polymers commonly used in the interfacing industry fusible.
  • the application of the layer is conventionally carried out by techniques printing including screen printing techniques printing single or double dots of a dispersion of fine powders of hot melt polymers in aqueous phase, or dot printing in dry powder by means of engraved cylinders or even printing by transfer.
  • the textile support can then be laminated via the layer hot-melt, especially on clothing linings or draperies strengthen.

Landscapes

  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Woven Fabrics (AREA)
  • Knitting Of Fabric (AREA)
  • Details Of Garments (AREA)
  • Treatment Of Fiber Materials (AREA)
  • Lining Or Joining Of Plastics Or The Like (AREA)
  • Laminated Bodies (AREA)
EP01400486A 2000-03-17 2001-02-23 Einbügelbares Textiles Trägermaterial und Verfahren zur Herstellung desselben Expired - Lifetime EP1136003B1 (de)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
FR0003459A FR2806266B1 (fr) 2000-03-17 2000-03-17 Support textile thermocollant et son procede de fabrication
FR0003459 2000-03-17

Publications (2)

Publication Number Publication Date
EP1136003A1 true EP1136003A1 (de) 2001-09-26
EP1136003B1 EP1136003B1 (de) 2003-08-20

Family

ID=8848221

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
EP01400486A Expired - Lifetime EP1136003B1 (de) 2000-03-17 2001-02-23 Einbügelbares Textiles Trägermaterial und Verfahren zur Herstellung desselben

Country Status (7)

Country Link
EP (1) EP1136003B1 (de)
AT (1) ATE247393T1 (de)
DE (1) DE60100607T2 (de)
ES (1) ES2204811T3 (de)
FR (1) FR2806266B1 (de)
PT (1) PT1136003E (de)
TR (1) TR200301919T4 (de)

Cited By (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
ES2391509A1 (es) * 2010-03-01 2012-11-27 Antonio PAREJO BOSSER Procedimiento para la obtención de un tejido urdido, y tejido obtenido mediante este procedimiento.

Families Citing this family (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
DE102006022494B4 (de) * 2006-05-13 2011-05-05 Hänsel Textil GmbH Textiler Einlagestoff

Citations (7)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
FR2546916A1 (fr) * 1983-06-02 1984-12-07 Jourquin Andre Etoffe a aspect gaufre, cloque, crepe et son procede d'obtention
DE3516828A1 (de) * 1985-05-10 1986-11-13 Hoechst Ag, 6230 Frankfurt Beschichtungsgrundgewebe
US4761321A (en) * 1984-06-22 1988-08-02 Chicopee Corrugated woven fabric
US5075151A (en) * 1989-08-04 1991-12-24 Kufner Textilwerke Gmbh Fully synthetic hot sealable shirt lining
DE9417827U1 (de) * 1994-02-03 1995-01-05 Kufner Textilwerke Gmbh Verstärkungseinlage für Krägen und Manschetten von Hemden
US5922433A (en) * 1996-10-23 1999-07-13 Kufner Textilwerke Gmbh Elastic interlining
EP0969130A2 (de) * 1998-07-01 2000-01-05 Malden Mills Industries, Inc. Doppeltseitige Polschlingenstrickware mit Farbedifferenzierung zwischen Vorder- und Hinterseite

Patent Citations (7)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
FR2546916A1 (fr) * 1983-06-02 1984-12-07 Jourquin Andre Etoffe a aspect gaufre, cloque, crepe et son procede d'obtention
US4761321A (en) * 1984-06-22 1988-08-02 Chicopee Corrugated woven fabric
DE3516828A1 (de) * 1985-05-10 1986-11-13 Hoechst Ag, 6230 Frankfurt Beschichtungsgrundgewebe
US5075151A (en) * 1989-08-04 1991-12-24 Kufner Textilwerke Gmbh Fully synthetic hot sealable shirt lining
DE9417827U1 (de) * 1994-02-03 1995-01-05 Kufner Textilwerke Gmbh Verstärkungseinlage für Krägen und Manschetten von Hemden
US5922433A (en) * 1996-10-23 1999-07-13 Kufner Textilwerke Gmbh Elastic interlining
EP0969130A2 (de) * 1998-07-01 2000-01-05 Malden Mills Industries, Inc. Doppeltseitige Polschlingenstrickware mit Farbedifferenzierung zwischen Vorder- und Hinterseite

Cited By (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
ES2391509A1 (es) * 2010-03-01 2012-11-27 Antonio PAREJO BOSSER Procedimiento para la obtención de un tejido urdido, y tejido obtenido mediante este procedimiento.

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
EP1136003B1 (de) 2003-08-20
FR2806266A1 (fr) 2001-09-21
DE60100607T2 (de) 2004-06-17
ES2204811T3 (es) 2004-05-01
ATE247393T1 (de) 2003-09-15
DE60100607D1 (de) 2003-09-25
FR2806266B1 (fr) 2002-06-07
TR200301919T4 (tr) 2004-01-21
PT1136003E (pt) 2004-01-30

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