EP1136003A1 - Thermobondable textile support and its method of manufacturing - Google Patents

Thermobondable textile support and its method of manufacturing Download PDF

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Publication number
EP1136003A1
EP1136003A1 EP01400486A EP01400486A EP1136003A1 EP 1136003 A1 EP1136003 A1 EP 1136003A1 EP 01400486 A EP01400486 A EP 01400486A EP 01400486 A EP01400486 A EP 01400486A EP 1136003 A1 EP1136003 A1 EP 1136003A1
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EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
filaments
textile support
different
shrinkage rate
textile
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Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Granted
Application number
EP01400486A
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German (de)
French (fr)
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EP1136003B1 (en
Inventor
Jean Lefebvre
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Lainiere de Picardie BC SAS
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Lainiere de Picardie SA
Lainiere de Picardie BC SAS
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Publication of EP1136003A1 publication Critical patent/EP1136003A1/en
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Publication of EP1136003B1 publication Critical patent/EP1136003B1/en
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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41—WEARING APPAREL
    • A41D—OUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
    • A41D27/00—Details of garments or of their making
    • A41D27/02—Linings
    • A41D27/06—Stiffening-pieces
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/50—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/567—Shapes or effects upon shrinkage

Definitions

  • the invention relates to a fusible textile support and to its process Manufacturing.
  • Iron-on interfacing products are commonly used today in the textile industry, mainly as reinforcement fabrics. Their application, carried out in particular by laminating on the linings of the clothes or on the draperies, allows to modify the characteristics of the fabrics, especially their shaping and stabilization but also their touch, flexibility and nervousness.
  • such textile supports can be formed from textured yarns, in particular multifilament yarns, because of the particular advantages brought by texturing.
  • this development requires interlining with a certain flexibility and a soft touch while having mechanical characteristics, in particular resilience and elasticity, sufficient to fulfill its function reinforcement.
  • the invention therefore aims to remedy these drawbacks by proposing a support fusible textile which is versatile by presenting a large volume, a some flexibility, a soft touch and mechanical characteristics optimal so that it can be laminated over a wide range of clothing or drapery while retaining their characteristics initials while giving them complementary performances essential for their comfort and maintenance.
  • the invention provides a textile support for fusible interlining, of the type formed by a fabric, a knitted fabric or a knitted woven fabric, in which the weft threads and / or the warp threads of said support are formed of at least two types of continuous textured filaments including at least the filaments of one of the types has a different shrinkage rate than that of the filaments of other types.
  • the textile support has undergone a finishing treatment after weaving or knitting comprising a retraction step so as to give it the characteristics final, especially in terms of volume.
  • the filaments of a first type have a rate retraction less than 30% and filaments of a second type a rate of retraction between 30% and 60%.
  • the filaments are made of materials different synthetics depending on the type to which they belong.
  • the filaments with the lowest shrinkage rate are formed of polyester or polyamide 6.6 and the filaments having the rate of most important retraction are formed of poly butylene terephthalate, polybutadiene, polyamide 6, polypropylene or acrylic.
  • the filaments have a density of crimps of different texturing depending on the type to which they belong.
  • the filaments with the lowest shrinkage rate then have a density less frizz than filaments with the rate of shrinkage Most important.
  • the filaments have a different titration in depending on the type to which they belong. For example, filaments with lowest shrinkage rate have lower titration than filaments with the highest retraction rate, for example of the order of 1.5 Dtex.
  • Figure 1 is a schematic and flat view of a wire used in the supports textiles of the prior art, namely formed from a single type of filaments.
  • Figure 2 is a schematic and flat view of a wire formed of two types of continuous textured filaments of which the filaments of one of the types have a shrinkage rate different from that of filaments of the other type. The wire is shown after the retraction step.
  • Figure 3 is a schematic and flat view of the association of several of the wires shown in Figure 1 in warp or weft, showing the spacing that exists between these sons.
  • Figure 4 is a schematic and flat view of the association of several of the wires shown in Figure 2 in warp or weft, showing the spacing that exists between these sons.
  • a textile support for fusible interlining is made of a fabric, a knitted fabric knitted or knitted mesh which are obtained respectively by weaving or knitting of warp threads and weft threads 1.
  • the knitted fabrics are, for example, knitted or knitted fabrics jetties (chain or Raschel) and knitted fabrics knitted with knitted fabrics jetties into which a wire is inserted at the time of forming the mesh of weft 1 over the entire width of the knitted fabric in different weaving weaves such as chain or single knit.
  • the textile support comprises a discontinuous layer of hot-melt polymer arranged on one of its faces so that it can be associated with the piece of garment he must strengthen.
  • the application of the hot-melt layer is for example carried out by classic spot coating techniques, among which the following may be mentioned: printing techniques in the rotary frame of a dispersion of fine powders hot melt polymers in aqueous phase.
  • the density of the dots deposited on the textile support can vary between 20 and 170 points per square centimeter depending on the nature of the piece of clothing to be reinforced.
  • the textile support can then be laminated via the layer hot-melt, especially on clothing linings or draperies strengthen.
  • the weft threads and / or the warp threads 1 of the textile support are formed from at least two types of continuous textured filaments 2, 3 of which minus filaments 2 of one of the types have a different shrinkage rate that of filaments 3 of other types.
  • the texturing of the filaments 2, 3 is obtained by using, for example, a classic false twist texturing technique.
  • the wires 1 are then obtained by slight intermingling of the different types of continuous textured filaments 2, 3.
  • the filaments can be textured in the same texturing machine, with a crimp density identical or not, to be intertwined at the exit of their respective sector.
  • the textile support is intended to undergo, after weaving or knitting, a treatment finishing including a retraction step.
  • the purpose of this step is to give the textile support its final characteristics, in particular in terms of volume, due to swelling of the wires 1.
  • retraction rate is meant the ratio between the length of the filament continuous 2, 3 before and after the shrinkage treatment of said filament 2, 3.
  • the filaments 2, 3 consist of different plastics so as to have a shrinkage rate different.
  • the filaments 2, 3 have a density of crimps of different textures so as to present a rate of shrinkage different.
  • the filaments 2, 3 have a density of crimps of different texturing which gives different shrinking capacities. This difference in density of crimps can be obtained in a first phase of false texturing twist separately on each of the filament parts 2, 3 of the same density crimps.
  • the filaments 2, 3 are then assembled by slight intermingling to manufacture the yarn 1 intended to form the warp and / or the weft of the textile support according to the invention.
  • the synthetic materials forming the filaments 2, 3 can be identical or different depending on the density of crimps, for example the filaments 2, 3 can be formed from any of the types of polymers mentioned in the table presented above.
  • the filaments 2, 3 have a different titration so that you have a different rate of withdrawal.
  • the synthetic materials forming the filaments 2, 3 can be identical or different depending on the titration, for example the filaments 2, 3 can be formed from any of the types of polymers listed in the table presented above.
  • a first and a second type of polyester filaments having a titration respectively of the order of 1.5 Dtex and of the order of 3 Dtex so as to present a different rate of retraction.
  • the filaments of the first type then have a lower retraction rate than filaments of the second type.
  • the modification of the retraction rate of the filaments 2, 3 is obtained by combining the three embodiments set out above, namely by using filaments 2, 3 formed from different synthetic materials, having a different density of texturing crimps as well as a titration different.
  • the yarns 1 of the textile support can be formed of more than two types of continuous textured filaments 2, 3, for example three each having a different retraction rate, so as to further improve the versatility of textile supports according to the invention.
  • warp and / or weft yarns 1 of a textile support with at at least two types of continuous textured filaments 2, 3 each having a rate of different retraction also makes it possible to adapt the characteristics of said support for the functions referred to in the context of its use.
  • flexibility and soft touch can be achieved by choice of a polymer such as polyamides and / or by low titration filaments.
  • Resilience elasticity to curvature or bending
  • large titration filaments for example greater than 3 Dtex, and / or by the use of polymers having stiffness or flexural strength characteristics more important.
  • the final titration of wire 1 will be adapted to the functions expected for the textile support. For example, it will be around 22 Dtex for the interlining of light draperies for blouses and up to 800 Dtex for example for covering jackets or coats.
  • the number as well as the percentage of the different filaments 2, 3 component the wire 1 is generally chosen according to the resilience or the elasticity, volume and flexibility desired for the textile support.
  • the textile support is formed from warp threads and threads weft 1 which are woven or knitted in the form of a fabric, knitted fabric or a knitted mesh knit.
  • Yarns 1 formed from at least two types of continuous textured filaments 2, 3 of which filaments 3 of one of the types have a different shrinkage rate from that of the filaments 2 of the other type can be used either in weft or in chain, either in weft and chain.
  • the other wires 4 are then of the type conventional, textured or not, for example formed from several filaments 5 all with the same withdrawal rate.
  • the chain and / or the weft is not 100% formed with such yarns 1 but includes a alternative association of these wires 1 with conventional, textured wires 4 or not.
  • the chain of the textile support of the first example is replaced by a thread comprising 7 textured filaments formed from a single synthetic material.
  • the textile supports according to the invention can comprise, in particular associated in a conventional manner on the face of the support opposite the layer of hot-melt polymer, a layer of nonwoven so as to improve still its volume.
  • the different textile supports after weaving or knitting, undergo a finishing treatment comprising a retraction step so that their confer the final characteristics, in particular in terms of volume.
  • the difference in retraction between the filaments 2, 3 combined to form thread 1 induces an increase in undulations of the filaments 3 having the lowest shrinkage so as to increase the gap between the filaments 2, 3 and therefore increase the volume of the wire 1.
  • This increase is more particularly visible in comparison with a wire 4 formed of a single type of filament 5, as shown in FIG. 1.
  • the increase in volume i.e. in diameter, lowers the density of the wire 1 which gives the interfacing the desired voluminous feel and lightness.
  • the spacing 6 between the weft threads and / or chain 1 of the textile support is reduced compared to the prior art ( Figure 3) which provides the desired coverage for the textile support of so as in particular to prevent the crossings of hot-melt polymer to through said support during its lamination.
  • Such yarns 1 also offer maximum flexibility, wrinkle resistance and of elasticity.
  • the textile support is produced by weaving or knitting of the textile support with weft threads and / or warp threads 1 formed from at least two types of continuous textured filaments 2, 3, at least the filaments 2 of one of the types has a different retraction rate than that filaments 3 of the other type.
  • each type of filaments 2, 3 forming the warp and / or weft yarns 1 of the textile support are defined, as indicated above, according to the characteristics referred to in the application of the textile support.
  • the textile support undergoes a finishing treatment comprising at least one retraction step.
  • This step is conventionally carried out either in a thermal medium or by spraying or in an aqueous medium. It allows an increase in volume of wires 1 and therefore the coverage sought by reducing spaces 6 between the threads 1 of the textile support.
  • This step can also comprise washing, dyeing, drying and then a heat-stabilizing stabilization of the textile support.
  • the textile support is made iron-on by depositing a discontinuous layer of hot-melt polymer on at least one of the faces of said support.
  • This layer is arranged in the form of points and is formed for example co-polyamides, co-polyester, polyurethane, polyethylene or other polymers commonly used in the interfacing industry fusible.
  • the application of the layer is conventionally carried out by techniques printing including screen printing techniques printing single or double dots of a dispersion of fine powders of hot melt polymers in aqueous phase, or dot printing in dry powder by means of engraved cylinders or even printing by transfer.
  • the textile support can then be laminated via the layer hot-melt, especially on clothing linings or draperies strengthen.

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Woven Fabrics (AREA)
  • Knitting Of Fabric (AREA)
  • Treatment Of Fiber Materials (AREA)
  • Details Of Garments (AREA)
  • Lining Or Joining Of Plastics Or The Like (AREA)
  • Laminated Bodies (AREA)

Abstract

A thermosetting textile reinforcement has a warp and/or weft made from continuous textured filaments at least one of which has a different level of retraction from the other filament(s). The textile is non-woven or knitted. An Independent claim is also included for the production of the reinforcement by forming or knitting the filaments, retracting them and placing them on a thermofusible polymeric layer to be used for attaching the reinforcement to an article of e.g. clothing.

Description

L'invention est relative à un support textile thermocollant ainsi qu'à son procédé de fabrication.The invention relates to a fusible textile support and to its process Manufacturing.

Elle concerne plus particulièrement des supports textiles thermocollants destinés à l'entoilage de vêtements ou de draperies.It relates more particularly to fusible textile supports intended for interlining clothing or draperies.

Les produits d'entoilage thermocollants sont aujourd'hui couramment utilisés dans l'industrie textile, principalement comme tissus de renfort. Leur application, réalisée notamment par contrecollage sur les doublures des vêtements ou sur les draperies, permet de modifier les caractéristiques des tissus, notamment leur mise en forme et leur stabilisation mais également leur toucher, leur souplesse et leur nervosité.Iron-on interfacing products are commonly used today in the textile industry, mainly as reinforcement fabrics. Their application, carried out in particular by laminating on the linings of the clothes or on the draperies, allows to modify the characteristics of the fabrics, especially their shaping and stabilization but also their touch, flexibility and nervousness.

On connaít déjà des supports textiles pour entoilage thermocollant, du type formé d'un tissu, d'un tricot maille ou d'un tricot maille tramée sur lesquels une couche discontinue de polymère thermofusible a été appliquée.We already know textile supports for fusible interfacing, of the type formed of a woven fabric, a knitted fabric or a knitted mesh fabric on which a discontinuous layer of hot melt polymer was applied.

En particulier de tels supports textiles peuvent être formés de fils texturés, notamment de fils multifilaments, en raison des avantages particuliers apportés par la texturation.In particular, such textile supports can be formed from textured yarns, in particular multifilament yarns, because of the particular advantages brought by texturing.

Par exemple, elle permet de conférer au support une certaine extensibilité dans le sens trame, dans le sens chaíne ou dans les deux directions chaíne et trame, en fonction de l'utilisation de fils texturés dans ces différentes directions.For example, it makes it possible to give the support a certain extensibility in the weft direction, in the warp direction or in both warp and weft directions, depending on the use of textured yarns in these different directions.

D'autre part, pour conférer à de tels supports le toucher nécessaire à l'entoilage, il est nécessaire de lui faire subir un traitement de rétraction après tissage ou tricotage afin de révéler la frisure des filaments texturés.On the other hand, to give such supports the touch necessary to the interlining, it is necessary to subject it to a shrinkage treatment after weaving or knitting to reveal the crimp of the textured filaments.

Ces traitements de rétraction ont pour effet d'augmenter le volume du support textile et ainsi d'augmenter sa souplesse et d'améliorer son toucher. These retraction treatments have the effect of increasing the volume of the support. textile and thus increase its flexibility and improve its feel.

Cependant, l'évolution du vêtement, plus léger, plus confortable et utilisant des variétés de tissus de plus en plus importantes nécessite un entoilage présentant un volume encore plus important tout en étant le plus polyvalent possible.However, the evolution of clothing, lighter, more comfortable and using more and more important varieties of fabrics require stabilization with even greater volume while being the most versatile possible.

En particulier, cette évolution nécessite des entoilages présentant une certaine souplesse et un toucher doux tout en ayant des caractéristiques mécaniques, notamment une résilience et une élasticité, suffisantes pour remplir sa fonction de renfort.In particular, this development requires interlining with a certain flexibility and a soft touch while having mechanical characteristics, in particular resilience and elasticity, sufficient to fulfill its function reinforcement.

Les supports textiles connus de l'art antérieur ne remplissent pas ces caractéristiques dans des conditions satisfaisantes.The textile supports known from the prior art do not meet these characteristics under satisfactory conditions.

L'invention vise donc à remédier à ces inconvénients en proposant un support textile thermocollant qui soit polyvalent en présentant un volume important, une certaine souplesse, un toucher doux et des caractéristiques mécaniques optimales de sorte à pouvoir être contrecollé sur une grande gamme de vêtements ou de draperies en conservant au mieux leurs caractéristiques initiales tout en leur conférant des performances complémentaires indispensables à leur confort et à leur entretien.The invention therefore aims to remedy these drawbacks by proposing a support fusible textile which is versatile by presenting a large volume, a some flexibility, a soft touch and mechanical characteristics optimal so that it can be laminated over a wide range of clothing or drapery while retaining their characteristics initials while giving them complementary performances essential for their comfort and maintenance.

A cet effet, l'invention propose un support textile pour entoilage thermocollant, du type formé d'un tissu, d'un tricot maille ou d'un tricot maille tramée, dans lequel les fils de trame et/ou les fils de chaíne dudit support sont formés d'au moins deux types de filaments texturés continus dont au moins les filaments de l'un des types présentent un taux de rétraction différent de celui des filaments des autres types.To this end, the invention provides a textile support for fusible interlining, of the type formed by a fabric, a knitted fabric or a knitted woven fabric, in which the weft threads and / or the warp threads of said support are formed of at least two types of continuous textured filaments including at least the filaments of one of the types has a different shrinkage rate than that of the filaments of other types.

Le support textile a subi après tissage ou tricotage un traitement de finissage comportant une étape de rétraction de sorte à lui conférer les caractéristiques finales, notamment en terme de volume. The textile support has undergone a finishing treatment after weaving or knitting comprising a retraction step so as to give it the characteristics final, especially in terms of volume.

Dans un exemple particulier, les filaments d'un premier type présentent un taux de rétraction inférieur à 30% et les filaments d'un deuxième type un taux de rétraction compris entre 30% et 60%.In a particular example, the filaments of a first type have a rate retraction less than 30% and filaments of a second type a rate of retraction between 30% and 60%.

Dans un premier mode de réalisation, les filaments sont constitués de matières synthétiques différentes en fonction du type auquel ils appartiennent. Par exemple, les filaments présentant le taux de rétraction le plus faible sont formés de polyester ou de polyamide 6.6 et les filaments présentant le taux de rétraction le plus important sont formés de poly butylène téréphtalate, de polybutadiène, de polyamide 6, de polypropylène ou d'acrylique.In a first embodiment, the filaments are made of materials different synthetics depending on the type to which they belong. Through example, the filaments with the lowest shrinkage rate are formed of polyester or polyamide 6.6 and the filaments having the rate of most important retraction are formed of poly butylene terephthalate, polybutadiene, polyamide 6, polypropylene or acrylic.

Dans un deuxième mode de réalisation, les filaments ont une densité de frisures de texturation différente en fonction du type auquel ils appartiennent. Les filaments présentant le taux de rétraction le plus faible ont alors une densité de frisures moins importante que les filaments présentant le taux de rétraction le plus important.In a second embodiment, the filaments have a density of crimps of different texturing depending on the type to which they belong. The filaments with the lowest shrinkage rate then have a density less frizz than filaments with the rate of shrinkage Most important.

Dans un troisième mode de réalisation, les filaments ont un titrage différent en fonction du type auquel ils appartiennent. Par exemple, les filaments présentant le taux de rétraction le plus faible ont un titrage inférieur à celui des filaments présentant le taux de rétraction le plus important, par exemple de l'ordre de 1,5 Dtex.In a third embodiment, the filaments have a different titration in depending on the type to which they belong. For example, filaments with lowest shrinkage rate have lower titration than filaments with the highest retraction rate, for example of the order of 1.5 Dtex.

Selon un deuxième aspect, l'invention propose un procédé de fabrication d'un support textile décrit ci-dessus, qui comprend les étapes de :

  • tissage ou tricotage du support textile avec des fils de trame et/ou des fils de chaíne formés d'au moins deux types de filaments texturés continus dont au moins les filaments de l'un des types présente un taux de rétraction différent de celui des filaments de l'autre type ;
  • finissage dudit support textile comportant au moins une étape de rétraction dudit support ;
  • dépôt d'une couche discontinue de polymère thermofusible sur au moins l'une des faces dudit support.
According to a second aspect, the invention provides a method of manufacturing a textile support described above, which comprises the steps of:
  • weaving or knitting the textile support with weft threads and / or warp threads formed from at least two types of continuous textured filaments of which at least the filaments of one of the types has a different shrinkage rate than that of the filaments of the other type;
  • finishing of said textile support comprising at least one step of retraction of said support;
  • depositing a discontinuous layer of hot-melt polymer on at least one of the faces of said support.

L'invention sera bien comprise grâce à la description qui suit en référence aux dessins annexés, illustrant divers modes de réalisation.The invention will be better understood from the following description with reference to accompanying drawings, illustrating various embodiments.

La figure 1 est une vue schématique et à plat d'un fil utilisé dans les supports textiles de l'art antérieur, à savoir formé d'un seul type de filaments.Figure 1 is a schematic and flat view of a wire used in the supports textiles of the prior art, namely formed from a single type of filaments.

La figure 2 est une vue schématique et à plat d'un fil formé de deux types de filaments texturés continus dont les filaments de l'un des types présentent un taux de rétraction différent de celui des filaments de l'autre type. Le fil est représenté après l'étape de rétraction.Figure 2 is a schematic and flat view of a wire formed of two types of continuous textured filaments of which the filaments of one of the types have a shrinkage rate different from that of filaments of the other type. The wire is shown after the retraction step.

La figure 3 est une vue schématique et à plat de l'association de plusieurs des fils représentés sur la figure 1 en chaíne ou en trame, montrant l'espacement qui existe entre ces fils.Figure 3 is a schematic and flat view of the association of several of the wires shown in Figure 1 in warp or weft, showing the spacing that exists between these sons.

La figure 4 est une vue schématique et à plat de l'association de plusieurs des fils représentés sur la figure 2 en chaíne ou en trame, montrant l'espacement qui existe entre ces fils.Figure 4 is a schematic and flat view of the association of several of the wires shown in Figure 2 in warp or weft, showing the spacing that exists between these sons.

Un support textile pour entoilage thermocollant est formé d'un tissu, d'un tricot maille ou d'un tricot maille tramée qui sont obtenus respectivement par tissage ou tricotage de fils de chaíne et de fils de trame 1.A textile support for fusible interlining is made of a fabric, a knitted fabric knitted or knitted mesh which are obtained respectively by weaving or knitting of warp threads and weft threads 1.

Les tricots mailles sont par exemple des tricots à mailles cueillies ou mailles jetées (chaíne ou Raschel) et les tricots maille tramée des tricots à mailles jetées dans lesquels est inséré, au moment de la formation de la maille, un fil de trame 1 sur toute la largeur du tricot dans différentes armures de liages comme par exemple chaínette ou tricot simple.The knitted fabrics are, for example, knitted or knitted fabrics jetties (chain or Raschel) and knitted fabrics knitted with knitted fabrics jetties into which a wire is inserted at the time of forming the mesh of weft 1 over the entire width of the knitted fabric in different weaving weaves such as chain or single knit.

Le support textile comporte une couche discontinue de polymère thermofusible disposée sur l'une de ses faces de sorte à pouvoir être associé à la pièce de vêtement qu'il doit renforcer. The textile support comprises a discontinuous layer of hot-melt polymer arranged on one of its faces so that it can be associated with the piece of garment he must strengthen.

L'application de la couche thermofusible est par exemple réalisée par des techniques classiques d'enduction par points parmi lesquelles on peut citer les techniques d'impression au cadre rotatif d'une dispersion de poudres fines de polymères thermofusibles en phase aqueuse.The application of the hot-melt layer is for example carried out by classic spot coating techniques, among which the following may be mentioned: printing techniques in the rotary frame of a dispersion of fine powders hot melt polymers in aqueous phase.

Dans un exemple particulier, la densité des points déposés sur le support textile peut varier entre 20 et 170 points au centimètre carré en fonction de la nature de la pièce de vêtement à renforcer.In a particular example, the density of the dots deposited on the textile support can vary between 20 and 170 points per square centimeter depending on the nature of the piece of clothing to be reinforced.

Le support textile peut alors être contrecollé par l'intermédiaire de la couche thermofusible, notamment sur les doublures des vêtements ou sur les draperies à renforcer.The textile support can then be laminated via the layer hot-melt, especially on clothing linings or draperies strengthen.

Suivant l'invention, les fils de trame et/ou les fils de chaíne 1 du support textile sont formés d'au moins deux types de filaments 2, 3 texturés continus dont au moins les filaments 2 de l'un des types présentent un taux de rétraction différent de celui des filaments 3 des autres types.According to the invention, the weft threads and / or the warp threads 1 of the textile support are formed from at least two types of continuous textured filaments 2, 3 of which minus filaments 2 of one of the types have a different shrinkage rate that of filaments 3 of other types.

La texturation des filaments 2, 3 est obtenue en utilisant, par exemple, une technique classique de texturation par fausse torsion.The texturing of the filaments 2, 3 is obtained by using, for example, a classic false twist texturing technique.

Les fils 1 sont alors obtenus par léger entremêlement des différents types de filaments texturés continus 2, 3. En particulier, les filaments peuvent être texturés dans la même machine de texturation, avec une densité de frisures identique ou non, pour être entremêlés à la sortie de leur filière respective.The wires 1 are then obtained by slight intermingling of the different types of continuous textured filaments 2, 3. In particular, the filaments can be textured in the same texturing machine, with a crimp density identical or not, to be intertwined at the exit of their respective sector.

Le support textile est destiné à subir, après tissage ou tricotage, un traitement de finissage comportant une étape de rétraction. Cette étape à pour but de conférer au support textile ses caractéristiques finales, notamment en terme de volume, du fait du gonflement des fils 1. The textile support is intended to undergo, after weaving or knitting, a treatment finishing including a retraction step. The purpose of this step is to give the textile support its final characteristics, in particular in terms of volume, due to swelling of the wires 1.

Par taux de rétraction, on entend le rapport entre la longueur du filament continu 2, 3 avant et après le traitement de rétraction dudit filament 2, 3.By retraction rate is meant the ratio between the length of the filament continuous 2, 3 before and after the shrinkage treatment of said filament 2, 3.

On décrit ci-dessous un premier, un deuxième et un troisième mode de réalisation de filaments 2, 3 présentant un taux de rétraction différent qui sont destinés à être associés entre eux pour former les fils de chaíne et/ou de trame 1 d'un support textile suivant l'invention.We describe below a first, a second and a third mode of production of filaments 2, 3 having a different rate of retraction which are intended to be associated with each other to form the warp and / or weft threads 1 of a textile support according to the invention.

Dans un premier mode de réalisation, les filaments 2, 3 sont constitués de matières synthétiques différentes de sorte à présenter un taux de rétraction différent.In a first embodiment, the filaments 2, 3 consist of different plastics so as to have a shrinkage rate different.

A titre d'exemple, on peut citer les matériaux synthétiques présentés dans le tableau suivant pour former des filaments texturés continus 2, 3 présentant un taux de rétraction respectivement faible 3, à savoir typiquement inférieur à 30% et plus important 2, à savoir typiquement compris entre 30% et 60%. Matériaux formant les filaments 3 à taux de rétraction faible Matériaux formant les filaments 2 à taux de rétraction plus important Polyester Poly butylène téréphtalate Polyester Poly triméthylène téréphtalate Polyamide 6.6 Polybutadiène Polyamide 6.6 Poly butylène téréphtalate Polyamide 6.6 Polyamide 6 Polyester Polypropylène Polyamide Acrylique By way of example, mention may be made of the synthetic materials presented in the following table for forming continuous textured filaments 2, 3 having a respectively low shrinkage rate 3, namely typically less than 30% and greater 2, namely typically between 30% and 60%. Filament-forming materials 3 with low shrinkage rate Materials forming the filaments 2 with a higher shrinkage rate Polyester Poly butylene terephthalate Polyester Poly trimethylene terephthalate Polyamide 6.6 Polybutadiene Polyamide 6.6 Poly butylene terephthalate Polyamide 6.6 Polyamide 6 Polyester Polypropylene Polyamide Acrylic

Dans un deuxième mode de réalisation, les filaments 2, 3 ont une densité de frisures de texturation différente de sorte à présenter un taux de rétraction différent.In a second embodiment, the filaments 2, 3 have a density of crimps of different textures so as to present a rate of shrinkage different.

Les filaments 2, 3 ont une densité de frisures de texturation différente qui confère des capacités de rétraction différente. Cette différence de densité de frisures peut être obtenue dans une première phase de texturation par fausse torsion séparément sur chacune des parties de filaments 2, 3 de même densité de frisures. Les filaments 2, 3 sont alors assemblés par léger entremêlement pour fabriquer le fil 1 destiné à former la chaíne et/ou la trame du support textile suivant l'invention.The filaments 2, 3 have a density of crimps of different texturing which gives different shrinking capacities. This difference in density of crimps can be obtained in a first phase of false texturing twist separately on each of the filament parts 2, 3 of the same density crimps. The filaments 2, 3 are then assembled by slight intermingling to manufacture the yarn 1 intended to form the warp and / or the weft of the textile support according to the invention.

Les matériaux synthétiques formant les filaments 2, 3 peuvent être identiques ou différents en fonction de la densité de frisures, par exemple les filaments 2, 3 peuvent être formés de l'un quelconque des types de polymères mentionnés dans le tableau présenté ci-dessus.The synthetic materials forming the filaments 2, 3 can be identical or different depending on the density of crimps, for example the filaments 2, 3 can be formed from any of the types of polymers mentioned in the table presented above.

Dans un exemple particulier, on peut citer un premier et un deuxième type de filaments de polyester ayant une densité de frisures différente l'un de l'autre de sorte à présenter un taux de rétraction différent.In a particular example, we can cite a first and a second type of polyester filaments having a different crimp density from each other so you have a different rate of withdrawal.

Dans un troisième mode de réalisation, les filaments 2, 3 ont un titrage différent de sorte à présenter un taux de rétraction différent.In a third embodiment, the filaments 2, 3 have a different titration so that you have a different rate of withdrawal.

Les matériaux synthétiques formant les filaments 2, 3 peuvent être identiques ou différents en fonction du titrage, par exemple les filaments 2, 3 peuvent être formés de l'un quelconque des types de polymères mentionnés dans le tableau présenté ci dessus.The synthetic materials forming the filaments 2, 3 can be identical or different depending on the titration, for example the filaments 2, 3 can be formed from any of the types of polymers listed in the table presented above.

Dans un exemple particulier, on peut citer un premier et un deuxième type de filaments de polyester ayant un titrage respectivement de l'ordre de 1,5 Dtex et de l'ordre de 3 Dtex de sorte à présenter un taux de rétraction différent. Les filaments du premier type ont alors un taux de rétraction inférieur à celui des filaments du deuxième type.In a particular example, we can cite a first and a second type of polyester filaments having a titration respectively of the order of 1.5 Dtex and of the order of 3 Dtex so as to present a different rate of retraction. The filaments of the first type then have a lower retraction rate than filaments of the second type.

En variante, la modification du taux de rétraction des filaments 2, 3 est obtenue en combinant les trois modes de réalisation exposés ci-dessus, à savoir en utilisant des filaments 2, 3 formés de matériaux synthétiques différents, présentant une densité de frisures de texturation différente ainsi qu'un titrage différent.As a variant, the modification of the retraction rate of the filaments 2, 3 is obtained by combining the three embodiments set out above, namely by using filaments 2, 3 formed from different synthetic materials, having a different density of texturing crimps as well as a titration different.

En jouant sur les trois paramètres qui influent sur le taux de rétraction des filaments 2, 3, à savoir la nature des matériaux, la densité de frisures de texturation et le titrage, l'homme du métier peut obtenir des supports textiles utilisables pour l'entoilage d'une large gamme de vêtements ou de draperies.By playing on the three parameters that influence the rate of retraction of filaments 2, 3, namely the nature of the materials, the crimp density of texturing and titration, the skilled person can obtain textile supports suitable for covering a wide range of clothing or drapery.

De plus, les fils 1 du support textile peuvent être formés de plus de deux types de filaments continus texturés 2, 3, par exemple de trois présentant chacun un taux de rétraction différent, de sorte à améliorer encore la polyvalence des supports textiles suivant l'invention.In addition, the yarns 1 of the textile support can be formed of more than two types of continuous textured filaments 2, 3, for example three each having a different retraction rate, so as to further improve the versatility of textile supports according to the invention.

La réalisation des fils de chaíne et/ou de trame 1 d'un support textile avec au moins deux types de filaments continus texturés 2, 3 présentant chacun un taux de rétraction différent permet également d'adapter les caractéristiques dudit support aux fonctions visées dans le cadre de son utilisation.The production of warp and / or weft yarns 1 of a textile support with at at least two types of continuous textured filaments 2, 3 each having a rate of different retraction also makes it possible to adapt the characteristics of said support for the functions referred to in the context of its use.

En particulier, la souplesse et le toucher doux peuvent être obtenus par le choix d'un polymère tel que les polyamides et/ou par des filaments de titrage faible. La résilience (élasticité à la courbure ou flexion) est obtenue par l'utilisation de filaments de gros titrage, par exemple supérieur à 3 Dtex, et/ou par l'utilisation de polymères ayant des caractéristiques de raideur ou de résistance à la flexion plus importante.In particular, flexibility and soft touch can be achieved by choice of a polymer such as polyamides and / or by low titration filaments. Resilience (elasticity to curvature or bending) is obtained by the use of large titration filaments, for example greater than 3 Dtex, and / or by the use of polymers having stiffness or flexural strength characteristics more important.

D'autre part, le titrage final du fil 1 sera adapté aux fonctions attendues pour le support textile. Par exemple il sera de l'ordre de 22 Dtex pour l'entoilage de draperies légères destinées aux chemisiers et jusqu'à par exemple 800 Dtex pour l'entoilage de vestes ou de manteaux.On the other hand, the final titration of wire 1 will be adapted to the functions expected for the textile support. For example, it will be around 22 Dtex for the interlining of light draperies for blouses and up to 800 Dtex for example for covering jackets or coats.

De même, le nombre ainsi que le pourcentage des différents filaments 2, 3 composant le fil 1 est généralement choisi en fonction de la résilience ou de l'élasticité, du volume et de la souplesse souhaités pour le support textile. Likewise, the number as well as the percentage of the different filaments 2, 3 component the wire 1 is generally chosen according to the resilience or the elasticity, volume and flexibility desired for the textile support.

Suivant l'invention, le support textile est formé à partir de fils de chaíne et de fils de trame 1 qui sont tissés ou tricotés sous la forme d'un tissu, d'un tricot maille ou d'un tricot maille tramée.According to the invention, the textile support is formed from warp threads and threads weft 1 which are woven or knitted in the form of a fabric, knitted fabric or a knitted mesh knit.

Les fils 1 formés d'au moins deux types de filaments texturés continus 2, 3 dont les filaments 3 de l'un des types présentent un taux de rétraction différent de celui des filaments 2 de l'autre type peuvent être utilisés soit en trame, soit en chaíne, soit en trame et en chaíne. Les autres fils 4 sont alors de type classique, texturés ou non, par exemple formés de plusieurs filaments 5 présentant tous le même taux de rétraction. En variante, la chaíne et/ou la trame n'est pas formée à 100% avec de tels fils 1 mais comprend une association alternative de ces fils 1 avec des fils 4 de type classique, texturés ou non.Yarns 1 formed from at least two types of continuous textured filaments 2, 3 of which filaments 3 of one of the types have a different shrinkage rate from that of the filaments 2 of the other type can be used either in weft or in chain, either in weft and chain. The other wires 4 are then of the type conventional, textured or not, for example formed from several filaments 5 all with the same withdrawal rate. As a variant, the chain and / or the weft is not 100% formed with such yarns 1 but includes a alternative association of these wires 1 with conventional, textured wires 4 or not.

On donne ci-dessous des exemples de réalisation d'un support textile suivant l'invention, donnés à titre illustratif et non limitatif.Examples of the embodiment of a textile support are given below the invention, given by way of illustration and not limitation.

Dans un premier exemple, le support textile est tissé avec :

  • une chaíne formée de 25 fils/cm, chaque fil comprenant 20 filaments texturés continus formés de deux matériaux différents de sorte à présenter un taux de rétraction différent, le titre total du fil est de 22 Dtex ; et avec
  • une trame formée de 20 fils/cm, chaque fil comprenant 30 filaments formés de deux matériaux différents de sorte à présenter un taux de rétraction différent, le titre total du fil est de 44 Dtex.
In a first example, the textile support is woven with:
  • a chain formed of 25 threads / cm, each thread comprising 20 continuous textured filaments formed of two different materials so as to have a different rate of retraction, the total titer of the thread is 22 Dtex; and with
  • a weft formed of 20 threads / cm, each thread comprising 30 filaments formed of two different materials so as to have a different shrinkage rate, the total titer of the thread is 44 Dtex.

Dans un deuxième exemple, la chaíne du support textile du premier exemple est remplacée par un fil comprenant 7 filaments texturés formés d'un seul matériau synthétique.In a second example, the chain of the textile support of the first example is replaced by a thread comprising 7 textured filaments formed from a single synthetic material.

Dans un troisième exemple, le support textile est tissé avec :

  • une chaíne formée de 21 fils/cm, chaque fil comprenant 34 filaments texturés continus formés de deux matériaux différents de sorte à présenter un taux de rétraction différent, le titre total du fil est de 78 Dtex ; et avec
  • une trame formée de 12 fils/cm, chaque fil comprenant 80 filaments formés de deux matériaux différents de sorte à présenter un taux de rétraction différent, le titre total du fil est de 170 Dtex.
In a third example, the textile support is woven with:
  • a chain formed of 21 threads / cm, each thread comprising 34 continuous textured filaments formed of two different materials so as to have a different rate of retraction, the total titer of the thread is 78 Dtex; and with
  • a weft formed of 12 threads / cm, each thread comprising 80 filaments formed of two different materials so as to have a different shrinkage rate, the total titer of the thread is 170 Dtex.

Dans un quatrième exemple, le support textile est tissé avec :

  • une chaíne formée de 20 fils/cm, chaque fil comprenant 100 filaments texturés continus formés de deux matériaux différents de sorte à présenter un taux de rétraction différent, le titre total du fil est de 170 Dtex ; et avec
  • une trame formée de 12 fils/cm, chaque fil comprenant 60 filaments formés de deux matériaux différents de sorte à présenter un taux de rétraction différent, le titre total du fil est de 78 Dtex.
In a fourth example, the textile support is woven with:
  • a chain formed of 20 threads / cm, each thread comprising 100 continuous textured filaments formed of two different materials so as to have a different rate of retraction, the total titer of the thread is 170 Dtex; and with
  • a weft formed of 12 threads / cm, each thread comprising 60 filaments formed of two different materials so as to have a different shrinkage rate, the total titer of the thread is 78 Dtex.

Dans un cinquième exemple, le support textile est un tricot maille tramée qui est tricoté avec :

  • une chaíne formée de 22 colonnes/fils/cm, chaque fil comprenant 7 filaments texturés formés d'un même matériau, le titre total du fil est de 22 Dtex ; et avec
  • une trame formée de 14 fils/cm, chaque fil comprenant 34 filaments formés de deux matériaux différents de sorte à présenter un taux de rétraction différent, le titre total du fil est de 78 Dtex.
In a fifth example, the textile support is a woven knitted fabric which is knitted with:
  • a chain formed of 22 columns / threads / cm, each thread comprising 7 textured filaments formed of the same material, the total title of the thread is 22 Dtex; and with
  • a weft formed of 14 threads / cm, each thread comprising 34 filaments formed of two different materials so as to have a different shrinkage rate, the total titer of the thread is 78 Dtex.

Dans un sixième exemple, le support textile est un tricot maille tramée qui est tricoté avec :

  • une chaíne formée de 22 colonnes/fils/cm, chaque fil comprenant 20 filaments texturés continus formés de deux matériaux différents de sorte à présenter un taux de rétraction différent, le titre total du fil est de 22 Dtex ; et avec
  • une trame formée de 20 fils/cm, chaque fil comprenant 20 filaments formés de deux matériaux différents de sorte à présenter un taux de rétraction différent, le titre total du fil est de 22 Dtex.
In a sixth example, the textile support is a woven knitted fabric which is knitted with:
  • a chain formed of 22 columns / threads / cm, each thread comprising 20 continuous textured filaments formed of two different materials so as to have a different rate of retraction, the total titer of the thread is 22 Dtex; and with
  • a weft formed of 20 threads / cm, each thread comprising 20 filaments formed of two different materials so as to have a different shrinkage rate, the total titer of the thread is 22 Dtex.

Dans un septième exemple, le support textile est un tricot maille tramée qui est tricoté avec :

  • une chaíne formée de 22 colonnes/fils/cm, chaque fil comprenant 20 filaments texturés continus formés de deux matériaux différents de sorte à présenter un taux de rétraction différent, le titre total du fil est de 22 Dtex ; et avec
  • une trame formée de 18 fils/cm, chaque fil comprenant 20 filaments formés d'un même matériau dont un premier type de filament à une densité de frisures différente d'un deuxième type de sorte à présenter un taux de rétraction différent, le titre total du fil est de 22 Dtex.
In a seventh example, the textile support is a woven knitted fabric which is knitted with:
  • a chain formed of 22 columns / threads / cm, each thread comprising 20 continuous textured filaments formed of two different materials so as to have a different rate of retraction, the total titer of the thread is 22 Dtex; and with
  • a weft formed of 18 threads / cm, each thread comprising 20 filaments formed of the same material including a first type of filament with a different crimp density from a second type so as to have a different shrinkage rate, the total titer of the wire is 22 Dtex.

Dans un huitième exemple, le support textile est un tricot maille tramée qui est tricoté avec :

  • une chaíne formée de 16 colonnes/fils/cm, chaque fil comprenant 20 filaments texturés continus formés de deux matériaux différents de sorte à présenter un taux de rétraction différent, le titre total du fil est de 44 Dtex ; et avec
  • une trame formée de 12 fils/cm, chaque fil comprenant 100 filaments formés de deux matériaux différents de sorte à présenter un taux de rétraction différent, le titre total du fil est de 170 Dtex.
In an eighth example, the textile support is a woven knitted fabric which is knitted with:
  • a chain formed of 16 columns / threads / cm, each thread comprising 20 continuous textured filaments formed of two different materials so as to have a different shrinkage rate, the total titer of the thread is 44 Dtex; and with
  • a weft formed of 12 threads / cm, each thread comprising 100 filaments formed of two different materials so as to have a different shrinkage rate, the total titer of the thread is 170 Dtex.

Dans un neuvième exemple, le support textile est un tricot maille tramée qui est tricoté avec :

  • une chaíne formée de 16 colonnes/fils/cm, chaque fil comprenant 20 filaments texturés continus formés de deux matériaux différents de sorte à présenter un taux de rétraction différent, le titre total du fil est de 44 Dtex ; et avec
  • une trame formée de 12 fils/cm, chaque fil comprenant 120 filaments formés d'un même matériau dont 60 filaments ont un titrage de 1,2 Dtex et 60 autres filaments un titrage de 3,5 Dtex de sorte à présenter un taux de rétraction différent, le titre total du fil est de 282 Dtex.
In a ninth example, the textile support is a woven knitted fabric which is knitted with:
  • a chain formed of 16 columns / threads / cm, each thread comprising 20 continuous textured filaments formed of two different materials so as to have a different shrinkage rate, the total titer of the thread is 44 Dtex; and with
  • a weft formed of 12 threads / cm, each thread comprising 120 filaments formed of the same material of which 60 filaments have a titration of 1.2 Dtex and 60 other filaments a titration of 3.5 Dtex so as to present a rate of retraction different, the total title of the thread is 282 Dtex.

Dans un dixième exemple, le support textile est un tricot maille tramée qui est tricoté avec :

  • une chaíne formée de 14 colonnes/fils/cm, chaque fil comprenant 18 filaments texturés continus formés d'un même matériau, le titre total du fil est de 33 Dtex ; et avec
  • une trame formée de 10 fils/cm, chaque fil comprenant 100 filaments formés de deux matériaux différents de sorte à présenter un taux de rétraction différent, le titre total du fil est de 500 Dtex.
In a tenth example, the textile support is a woven knitted fabric which is knitted with:
  • a chain formed by 14 columns / threads / cm, each thread comprising 18 continuous textured filaments formed from the same material, the total titer of the thread is 33 Dtex; and with
  • a weft formed of 10 threads / cm, each thread comprising 100 filaments formed of two different materials so as to have a different shrinkage rate, the total titer of the thread is 500 Dtex.

Dans un onzième exemple, le support textile est un tricot maille tramée qui est tricoté avec :

  • une chaíne formée par une barre de liage «tricot» alimentée avec 16 colonnes/fils/cm, chaque fil comprenant 18 filaments texturés formés d'un même matériau, le titre total du fil est de 33 Dtex et par deux barres « fils cabestan » ne formant pas maille alimentées avec 16 fils/cm, chaque fil comprenant 100 filaments texturés continus formés de deux matériaux différents de sorte à présenter un taux de rétraction différent, le titre total du fil est de 170 Dtex ; et avec
  • une trame formée de 12 fils/cm, chaque fil comprenant 100 filaments formés de deux matériaux différents de sorte à présenter un taux de rétraction différent, le titre total du fil est de 170 Dtex.
In an eleventh example, the textile support is a woven knitted fabric which is knitted with:
  • a chain formed by a “knitting” tying bar supplied with 16 columns / threads / cm, each thread comprising 18 textured filaments formed from the same material, the total thread count is 33 Dtex and by two “capstan threads” bars not forming a mesh fed with 16 threads / cm, each thread comprising 100 continuous textured filaments formed from two different materials so as to have a different shrinkage rate, the total titer of the thread is 170 Dtex; and with
  • a weft formed of 12 threads / cm, each thread comprising 100 filaments formed of two different materials so as to have a different shrinkage rate, the total titer of the thread is 170 Dtex.

Dans d'autres exemples, on peut envisager de former des supports textiles maille cueillie ou maille jetée qui présentent les mêmes avantages que les tissés ou les tricotés trames, à savoir une grande couverture, une grande légèreté du fait de leur faible densité et un toucher ainsi qu'une résilience adaptés à l'évolution des vêtements.In other examples, it is possible to envisage forming textile supports picked or dropped mesh which have the same advantages as woven or knitted wefts, i.e. a large blanket, a large lightness due to their low density and touch and resilience adapted to the evolution of clothing.

De plus, les supports textiles suivant l'invention peuvent comprendre, notamment associé de façon classique sur la face du support opposé à la couche de polymère thermofusible, une nappe de non tissé de sorte à améliorer encore son volume. In addition, the textile supports according to the invention can comprise, in particular associated in a conventional manner on the face of the support opposite the layer of hot-melt polymer, a layer of nonwoven so as to improve still its volume.

Dans les exemples indiqués ci-dessus, un seul paramètre parmi la nature du matériau, la densité de frisures et le titrage est différent en fonction du type de filaments 2, 3, cependant l'homme du métier peut faire varier ces paramètres ensemble de sorte par exemple à augmenter la différence de taux de rétraction entre chacun des types de filaments 2, 3.In the examples indicated above, only one parameter among the nature of the material, the density of crimps and the titration is different depending on the type of filaments 2, 3, however those skilled in the art can vary these parameters together so for example to increase the difference in retraction rate between each of the types of filaments 2, 3.

Les différents supports textiles, après tissage ou tricotage, subissent un traitement de finissage comportant une étape de rétraction de sorte à leur conférer les caractéristiques finales, notamment en terme de volume.The different textile supports, after weaving or knitting, undergo a finishing treatment comprising a retraction step so that their confer the final characteristics, in particular in terms of volume.

En effet comme montré sur la figure 2, la différence de rétraction entre les filaments 2, 3 associés pour former le fil 1 induit une augmentation des ondulations des filaments 3 ayant le plus faible retrait de sorte à augmenter l'écart entre les filaments 2, 3 et donc à augmenter le volume du fil 1. Cette augmentation est plus particulièrement visible en comparaison avec un fil 4 formé d'un seul type de filaments 5, tel que représenté sur la figure 1.As shown in FIG. 2, the difference in retraction between the filaments 2, 3 combined to form thread 1 induces an increase in undulations of the filaments 3 having the lowest shrinkage so as to increase the gap between the filaments 2, 3 and therefore increase the volume of the wire 1. This increase is more particularly visible in comparison with a wire 4 formed of a single type of filament 5, as shown in FIG. 1.

L'augmentation de volume, c'est à dire du diamètre, abaisse la densité du fil 1 ce qui apporte à l'entoilage le toucher volumineux et la légèreté recherchés.The increase in volume, i.e. in diameter, lowers the density of the wire 1 which gives the interfacing the desired voluminous feel and lightness.

De plus, comme illustré sur la figure 4, l'espacement 6 entre les fils de trame et/ou de chaíne 1 du support textile est diminué par rapport à l'art antérieur (figure 3) ce qui apporte la couverture recherchée pour le support textile de sorte notamment à empêcher les traversées de polymère thermofusible à travers ledit support lors de son contrecollage.In addition, as illustrated in FIG. 4, the spacing 6 between the weft threads and / or chain 1 of the textile support is reduced compared to the prior art (Figure 3) which provides the desired coverage for the textile support of so as in particular to prevent the crossings of hot-melt polymer to through said support during its lamination.

De tels fils 1 offre également un maximum de souplesse, d'infroissabilité et d'élasticité.Such yarns 1 also offer maximum flexibility, wrinkle resistance and of elasticity.

L'ensemble de ces caractéristiques peut être contrôlé de façon précise en faisant varier la différence de taux de rétraction des différents type de filaments 2, 3, notamment en jouant sur la nature du matériau, la densité de frisures et/ou le titrage, de sorte à pouvoir fournir des entoilages adaptables pour une large gamme d'utilisation.All of these characteristics can be precisely controlled by varying the difference in the rate of retraction of the different types of filaments 2, 3, in particular by varying the nature of the material, the density of crimps and / or titration, so as to be able to provide adaptable linings for a wide range range of use.

On décrit maintenant le procédé de fabrication d'un support textile.We will now describe the process for manufacturing a textile support.

Dans une première étape le support textile est réalisé par tissage ou tricotage du support textile avec des fils de trame et/ou des fils de chaíne 1 formés d'au moins deux types de filaments texturés continus 2, 3 dont au moins les filaments 2 de l'un des types présente un taux de rétraction différent de celui des filaments 3 de l'autre type.In a first step, the textile support is produced by weaving or knitting of the textile support with weft threads and / or warp threads 1 formed from at least two types of continuous textured filaments 2, 3, at least the filaments 2 of one of the types has a different retraction rate than that filaments 3 of the other type.

Le nombre, la nature ainsi que le taux de rétraction de chacun des types de filaments 2, 3 formant les fils de chaíne et/ou de trame 1 du support textile sont définis, comme indiqué ci-dessus, en fonction des caractéristiques visées dans le cadre de l'application du support textile.The number, nature and rate of withdrawal of each type of filaments 2, 3 forming the warp and / or weft yarns 1 of the textile support are defined, as indicated above, according to the characteristics referred to in the application of the textile support.

Dans une deuxième étape, le support textile subit un traitement de finissage comportant au moins une étape de rétraction.In a second step, the textile support undergoes a finishing treatment comprising at least one retraction step.

Cette étape est classiquement réalisée soit en milieu thermique, soit par vaporisage ou encore en milieu aqueux. Elle permet une augmentation du volume des fils 1 et donc la couverture recherchée par réduction des espaces 6 entre les fils 1 du support textile.This step is conventionally carried out either in a thermal medium or by spraying or in an aqueous medium. It allows an increase in volume of wires 1 and therefore the coverage sought by reducing spaces 6 between the threads 1 of the textile support.

Cette étape peut comprendre en outre un lavage, une teinture, un séchage puis un thermofixage de stabilisation du support textile.This step can also comprise washing, dyeing, drying and then a heat-stabilizing stabilization of the textile support.

A la suite du traitement de finissage, le support textile est rendu thermocollant par le dépôt d'une couche discontinue de polymère thermofusible sur au moins l'une des faces dudit support.Following the finishing treatment, the textile support is made iron-on by depositing a discontinuous layer of hot-melt polymer on at least one of the faces of said support.

Cette couche est disposée sous la forme de points et est formée par exemple de co-polyamides, de co-polyester, de polyuréthane, de polyéthylène ou d'autres polymères habituellement utilisés dans le domaine de l'entoilage thermocollant.This layer is arranged in the form of points and is formed for example co-polyamides, co-polyester, polyurethane, polyethylene or other polymers commonly used in the interfacing industry fusible.

L'application de la couche est classiquement réalisée par des techniques d'impression parmi lesquelles on peut citer les techniques sérigraphiques d'impression de points simples ou doubles d'une dispersion de poudres fines de polymères thermofusibles en phase aqueuse, ou d'impression de points en poudre sèche au moyen de cylindres gravés en creux ou encore d'impression par transfert.The application of the layer is conventionally carried out by techniques printing including screen printing techniques printing single or double dots of a dispersion of fine powders of hot melt polymers in aqueous phase, or dot printing in dry powder by means of engraved cylinders or even printing by transfer.

Le support textile peut alors être contrecollé par l'intermédiaire de la couche thermofusible, notamment sur les doublures des vêtements ou sur les draperies à renforcer.The textile support can then be laminated via the layer hot-melt, especially on clothing linings or draperies strengthen.

Claims (10)

Support textile pour entoilage thermocollant, du type formé d'un tissu, d'un tricot maille ou d'un tricot maille tramée, caractérisé en ce que les fils de trame et/ou les fils de chaíne (1) dudit support sont formés d'au moins deux types de filaments texturés continus (2, 3) dont au moins les filaments (2) de l'un des types présentent un taux de rétraction différent de celui des filaments (3) des autres types.Textile support for fusible interlining, of the type formed by a fabric, a knitted fabric or a woven knitted fabric, characterized in that the weft threads and / or the warp threads (1) of said support are formed 'at least two types of continuous textured filaments (2, 3) of which at least the filaments (2) of one of the types have a different shrinkage rate than that of the filaments (3) of the other types. Support textile selon la revendication 1, caractérisé en ce que le support a subi après tissage ou tricotage un traitement de finissage comportant une étape de rétraction de sorte à lui conférer les caractéristiques finales, notamment en terme de volume.Textile support according to claim 1, characterized in that the support has undergone, after weaving or knitting, a finishing treatment comprising a retraction step so as to give it the final characteristics, in particular in terms of volume. Support textile selon la revendication 1 ou 2, caractérisé en ce que les filaments (3) d'un premier type présentent un taux de rétraction inférieur à 30% et les filaments (2) d'un deuxième type un taux de rétraction compris entre 30% et 60%.Textile support according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the filaments (3) of a first type have a shrinkage rate of less than 30% and the filaments (2) of a second type have a shrinkage rate of between 30 % and 60%. Support textile selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 3, caractérisé en ce que les filaments (2, 3) sont constitués de matières synthétiques différentes en fonction du type auquel ils appartiennent.Textile support according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the filaments (2, 3) consist of different synthetic materials depending on the type to which they belong. Support textile selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 4, caractérisé en ce que les filaments (2, 3) ont une densité de frisures de texturation différente en fonction du type auquel ils appartiennent.Textile support according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the filaments (2, 3) have a different density of crimps depending on the type to which they belong. Support textile selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 5, caractérisé en ce que les filaments (2, 3) ont un titrage différent en fonction du type auquel ils appartiennent. Textile support according to any one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that the filaments (2, 3) have a different titration depending on the type to which they belong. Support textile selon la revendication 4, caractérisé en ce que les filaments (3) présentant le taux de rétraction le plus faible sont formés de polyester ou de polyamide 6.6 et les filaments (2) présentant le taux de rétraction le plus important sont formés de poly butylène téréphtalate, de poly triméthylène téréphtalate, de polybutadiène, de polyamide 6, de polypropylène ou d'acrylique.Textile support according to claim 4, characterized in that the filaments (3) having the lowest shrinkage rate are formed of polyester or polyamide 6.6 and the filaments (2) having the highest shrinkage rate are formed of poly butylene terephthalate, poly trimethylene terephthalate, polybutadiene, polyamide 6, polypropylene or acrylic. Support textile selon la revendication 6, caractérisé en ce que les filaments (3) présentant le taux de rétraction le plus faible ont un titrage inférieur à celui des filaments (2) présentant le taux de rétraction le plus important, par exemple de l'ordre de 1,5 Dtex.Textile support according to claim 6, characterized in that the filaments (3) having the lowest shrinkage rate have a lower titration than that of the filaments (2) having the highest shrinkage rate, for example of the order 1.5 Dtex. Support textile selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 8, caractérisé en ce qu'il comporte une couche discontinue de polymère thermofusible disposée, notamment sous forme de points, sur au moins l'une de ses faces de sorte à pouvoir être associé à la pièce de vêtement qu'il doit renforcer.Textile support according to any one of Claims 1 to 8, characterized in that it comprises a discontinuous layer of hot-melt polymer arranged, in particular in the form of dots, on at least one of its faces so that it can be associated with the piece of clothing he must reinforce. Procédé de fabrication d'un support textile selon la revendication 9, caractérisé en ce qu'il comprend les étapes de : tissage ou tricotage du support textile avec des fils de trame et/ou des fils de chaíne (1) formés d'au moins deux types de filaments texturés continus (2, 3) dont au moins les filaments (2) de l'un des types présente un taux de rétraction différent de celui des filaments (3) de l'autre type ; finissage dudit support textile comportant au moins une étape de rétraction dudit support ; dépôt d'une couche discontinue de polymère thermofusible sur au moins l'une des faces dudit support. Method of manufacturing a textile support according to claim 9, characterized in that it comprises the steps of: weaving or knitting the textile support with weft threads and / or warp threads (1) formed from at least two types of continuous textured filaments (2, 3) including at least the filaments (2) of one of the types has a different shrinkage rate than that of filaments (3) of the other type; finishing of said textile support comprising at least one step of retraction of said support; depositing a discontinuous layer of hot-melt polymer on at least one of the faces of said support.
EP01400486A 2000-03-17 2001-02-23 Thermobondable textile support and its method of manufacturing Expired - Lifetime EP1136003B1 (en)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
FR0003459 2000-03-17
FR0003459A FR2806266B1 (en) 2000-03-17 2000-03-17 HEAT-STICKING TEXTILE SUPPORT AND MANUFACTURING METHOD THEREOF

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EP1136003A1 true EP1136003A1 (en) 2001-09-26
EP1136003B1 EP1136003B1 (en) 2003-08-20

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EP (1) EP1136003B1 (en)
AT (1) ATE247393T1 (en)
DE (1) DE60100607T2 (en)
ES (1) ES2204811T3 (en)
FR (1) FR2806266B1 (en)
PT (1) PT1136003E (en)
TR (1) TR200301919T4 (en)

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Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
ES2391509A1 (en) * 2010-03-01 2012-11-27 Antonio PAREJO BOSSER Procedure for the obtaining of a urided tissue, and tissue obtained through this procedure. (Machine-translation by Google Translate, not legally binding)

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DE102006022494B4 (en) * 2006-05-13 2011-05-05 Hänsel Textil GmbH Textile interlining

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FR2546916A1 (en) * 1983-06-02 1984-12-07 Jourquin Andre Fabric with embossed, curled and crimped appearance and process for obtaining it
DE3516828A1 (en) * 1985-05-10 1986-11-13 Hoechst Ag, 6230 Frankfurt Coating foundation fabric
US4761321A (en) * 1984-06-22 1988-08-02 Chicopee Corrugated woven fabric
US5075151A (en) * 1989-08-04 1991-12-24 Kufner Textilwerke Gmbh Fully synthetic hot sealable shirt lining
DE9417827U1 (en) * 1994-02-03 1995-01-05 Kufner Textilwerke GmbH, 81379 München Reinforcement for collars and cuffs of shirts
US5922433A (en) * 1996-10-23 1999-07-13 Kufner Textilwerke Gmbh Elastic interlining
EP0969130A2 (en) * 1998-07-01 2000-01-05 Malden Mills Industries, Inc. Two face terry knit raised surface fabric with face to back color differentiation

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Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
FR2546916A1 (en) * 1983-06-02 1984-12-07 Jourquin Andre Fabric with embossed, curled and crimped appearance and process for obtaining it
US4761321A (en) * 1984-06-22 1988-08-02 Chicopee Corrugated woven fabric
DE3516828A1 (en) * 1985-05-10 1986-11-13 Hoechst Ag, 6230 Frankfurt Coating foundation fabric
US5075151A (en) * 1989-08-04 1991-12-24 Kufner Textilwerke Gmbh Fully synthetic hot sealable shirt lining
DE9417827U1 (en) * 1994-02-03 1995-01-05 Kufner Textilwerke GmbH, 81379 München Reinforcement for collars and cuffs of shirts
US5922433A (en) * 1996-10-23 1999-07-13 Kufner Textilwerke Gmbh Elastic interlining
EP0969130A2 (en) * 1998-07-01 2000-01-05 Malden Mills Industries, Inc. Two face terry knit raised surface fabric with face to back color differentiation

Cited By (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
ES2391509A1 (en) * 2010-03-01 2012-11-27 Antonio PAREJO BOSSER Procedure for the obtaining of a urided tissue, and tissue obtained through this procedure. (Machine-translation by Google Translate, not legally binding)

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
ATE247393T1 (en) 2003-09-15
DE60100607D1 (en) 2003-09-25
DE60100607T2 (en) 2004-06-17
ES2204811T3 (en) 2004-05-01
FR2806266B1 (en) 2002-06-07
TR200301919T4 (en) 2004-01-21
FR2806266A1 (en) 2001-09-21
PT1136003E (en) 2004-01-30
EP1136003B1 (en) 2003-08-20

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