JP2001115344A - Special crimped and conjugated yarn - Google Patents
Special crimped and conjugated yarnInfo
- Publication number
- JP2001115344A JP2001115344A JP28939499A JP28939499A JP2001115344A JP 2001115344 A JP2001115344 A JP 2001115344A JP 28939499 A JP28939499 A JP 28939499A JP 28939499 A JP28939499 A JP 28939499A JP 2001115344 A JP2001115344 A JP 2001115344A
- Authority
- JP
- Japan
- Prior art keywords
- yarn
- crimped
- thick
- crimps
- crimped yarn
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
- Granted
Links
- 229920000642 polymer Polymers 0.000 claims abstract description 20
- 239000002131 composite material Substances 0.000 claims description 46
- -1 polytrimethylene terephthalate Polymers 0.000 claims description 24
- 239000005020 polyethylene terephthalate Substances 0.000 claims description 12
- 229920000139 polyethylene terephthalate Polymers 0.000 claims description 11
- QQVIHTHCMHWDBS-UHFFFAOYSA-N Isophthalic acid Chemical compound OC(=O)C1=CC=CC(C(O)=O)=C1 QQVIHTHCMHWDBS-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 7
- 229910052751 metal Inorganic materials 0.000 claims description 3
- 239000002184 metal Substances 0.000 claims description 3
- 229920002215 polytrimethylene terephthalate Polymers 0.000 claims description 3
- 238000004804 winding Methods 0.000 claims description 3
- 229920001707 polybutylene terephthalate Polymers 0.000 claims description 2
- 125000001273 sulfonato group Chemical group [O-]S(*)(=O)=O 0.000 claims description 2
- 239000000463 material Substances 0.000 abstract description 3
- 239000004744 fabric Substances 0.000 description 19
- 239000000835 fiber Substances 0.000 description 13
- 238000004043 dyeing Methods 0.000 description 7
- 238000002788 crimping Methods 0.000 description 6
- 238000000034 method Methods 0.000 description 6
- 239000000203 mixture Substances 0.000 description 6
- XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N water Substances O XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 6
- 238000009835 boiling Methods 0.000 description 5
- 238000009991 scouring Methods 0.000 description 5
- 238000011084 recovery Methods 0.000 description 4
- 238000009987 spinning Methods 0.000 description 4
- 229920001577 copolymer Polymers 0.000 description 3
- WERYXYBDKMZEQL-UHFFFAOYSA-N 1,4-Butanediol Chemical compound OCCCCO WERYXYBDKMZEQL-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- WNLRTRBMVRJNCN-UHFFFAOYSA-N Adipic acid Chemical compound OC(=O)CCCCC(O)=O WNLRTRBMVRJNCN-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- MTHSVFCYNBDYFN-UHFFFAOYSA-N Diethylene glycol Chemical compound OCCOCCO MTHSVFCYNBDYFN-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- 229920002456 HOTAIR Polymers 0.000 description 2
- CXMXRPHRNRROMY-UHFFFAOYSA-N Sebacic acid Chemical compound OC(=O)CCCCCCCCC(O)=O CXMXRPHRNRROMY-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- 239000002253 acid Substances 0.000 description 2
- 239000003513 alkali Substances 0.000 description 2
- 230000000694 effects Effects 0.000 description 2
- LYCAIKOWRPUZTN-UHFFFAOYSA-N glycol Chemical compound OCCO LYCAIKOWRPUZTN-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- 239000004745 nonwoven fabric Substances 0.000 description 2
- 230000035945 sensitivity Effects 0.000 description 2
- 238000009941 weaving Methods 0.000 description 2
- XXMIOPMDWAUFGU-UHFFFAOYSA-N 1,6-Hexanediol Chemical compound OCCCCCCO XXMIOPMDWAUFGU-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- KTRAEKUHPXFQHU-UHFFFAOYSA-N 1-sulfonaphthalene-2,6-dicarboxylic acid Chemical compound OS(=O)(=O)C1=C(C(O)=O)C=CC2=CC(C(=O)O)=CC=C21 KTRAEKUHPXFQHU-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- YZTJKOLMWJNVFH-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-sulfobenzene-1,3-dicarboxylic acid Chemical compound OC(=O)C1=CC=CC(C(O)=O)=C1S(O)(=O)=O YZTJKOLMWJNVFH-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 239000004952 Polyamide Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000004698 Polyethylene (PE) Substances 0.000 description 1
- XGIAHMUOCFHQTI-UHFFFAOYSA-J [Cl-].[Cl-].[Cl-].[Cl-].CC Chemical compound [Cl-].[Cl-].[Cl-].[Cl-].CC XGIAHMUOCFHQTI-UHFFFAOYSA-J 0.000 description 1
- 235000011037 adipic acid Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000001361 adipic acid Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000007864 aqueous solution Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000005452 bending Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000003054 catalyst Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000000052 comparative effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000009998 heat setting Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000009940 knitting Methods 0.000 description 1
- 229910052744 lithium Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 238000004519 manufacturing process Methods 0.000 description 1
- ISWSIDIOOBJBQZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N phenol Chemical compound OC1=CC=CC=C1 ISWSIDIOOBJBQZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- XNGIFLGASWRNHJ-UHFFFAOYSA-L phthalate(2-) Chemical compound [O-]C(=O)C1=CC=CC=C1C([O-])=O XNGIFLGASWRNHJ-UHFFFAOYSA-L 0.000 description 1
- 229920002647 polyamide Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 239000011528 polyamide (building material) Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229920000728 polyester Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 229920000098 polyolefin Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 229910052700 potassium Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 239000011591 potassium Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000002040 relaxant effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000005070 sampling Methods 0.000 description 1
- 229910052708 sodium Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 239000011734 sodium Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000004580 weight loss Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000002759 woven fabric Substances 0.000 description 1
Abstract
Description
【０００１】[0001]
【発明の属する技術分野】本発明はストレッチ性に優
れ、しかもナチュラルなスパナイズ風合を呈する布帛が
得られる特殊複合捲縮糸に関する。BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to a special composite crimped yarn excellent in stretchability and capable of obtaining a fabric having a natural spanning feeling.
【０００２】[0002]
【従来の技術】従来、熱収縮性特性の異なる２種類のポ
リマーをサイドバイサイドや偏心的に複合化してなる複
合捲縮糸からは、これを紡績糸とした後織編物として、
あるいは不織布としてストレッチ性に優れた布帛が得ら
れることが良く知られている（例えば特開平９−２２８
１７２号公報、特開平９−２４１９３７号公報、特許第
２７０３２９４号公報など）。2. Description of the Related Art Conventionally, a composite crimped yarn obtained by side-by-side or eccentrically compounding two kinds of polymers having different heat shrinkage characteristics has been used as a spun yarn and subsequently woven and knitted.
Alternatively, it is well known that a fabric having excellent stretchability can be obtained as a nonwoven fabric (for example, see Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 9-228).
172, Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 9-241937, Japanese Patent No. 2703294, etc.).
【０００３】かかる複合捲縮糸はポリマーの熱収縮が繊
維長さ方向で一定であるため、熱収縮して発現するスパ
イラル状の捲縮サイズ、形態も皆一定であり、特に撚糸
を施してから捲縮を発現させたりすると、糸を構成する
各フィラメントの位相が重なり合って全体として集束し
合ったスパイラル形態を発現しており、こうした均一で
集束した捲縮によって高いストレッチ性を実現しようと
するものである。[0003] In such a composite crimped yarn, since the heat shrinkage of the polymer is constant in the fiber length direction, the spiral crimped size and shape which are expressed by the heat shrinkage are all constant. When crimping is developed, the phases of the filaments that compose the yarn are overlapped, and the spiral form that is converged as a whole is expressed, and high uniformity is achieved by such uniform and convoluted crimps. It is.
【０００４】このため、上記の複合捲縮糸を単にストレ
ッチ機能だけを要するスポーツ衣料用途や医療用不織布
といった分野には利用できるものの、さらに感性を要求
される分野、特にアウターなどの衣料用分野に展開する
上では限界が有り、ましてやかかる複合捲縮糸のみから
ナチュラルなスパナイズ風合とストレッチ性を同時に有
する布帛を得るといった試みは従来あまりなされていな
い。[0004] For this reason, the above-mentioned composite crimped yarn can be used in the fields of sports clothing and medical non-woven fabrics which only require a stretching function, but is used in fields where sensitivity is required, especially in the field of clothing such as outerwear. There is a limit in the development, and much less attempts have been made so far to obtain a fabric having both a natural spanished feel and stretchability from such composite crimped yarn alone.
【０００５】[0005]
【発明が解決しようとする課題】本発明の目的は、従来
の複合捲縮糸の優れたストレッチ性は維持したまま、ナ
チュラルなスパナイズ風合を付与し、ストレッチ機能と
スパナイズ感性の両方を兼ね備えた汎用性のある快適素
材を提供することにある。SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION It is an object of the present invention to impart a natural spanning feel while maintaining the excellent stretchability of the conventional composite crimped yarn, and to provide both the stretch function and the spanning sensitivity. It is to provide versatile comfortable materials.
【０００６】[0006]
【課題を解決するための手段】本発明者らは上記目的を
達成すべく鋭意検討した結果、複合捲縮糸に太細部を付
与するような延伸を施すと、その太部と細部で捲縮サイ
ズや形状の異なった特殊な複合捲縮糸となり、該複合捲
縮糸からは従来にないスパナイズ風合を有する織編物が
得られることを見出し、本発明を完成させるに至った。
かくして本発明によれば２種類のポリマーからなる複合
捲縮糸において、糸の長さ方向に交互に太細部を有し、
該太細部の太部と細部とで捲縮形状が異なることを特徴
とする特殊複合捲縮糸が提案される。Means for Solving the Problems The inventors of the present invention have conducted intensive studies to achieve the above object, and as a result, when the composite crimped yarn is stretched so as to give thick details, the thick portion and the details are crimped. The present inventors have found that special composite crimped yarns having different sizes and shapes can be obtained, and that the composite crimped yarns can provide a woven or knitted fabric having an unprecedented spanning feeling, thereby completing the present invention.
Thus, according to the present invention, a composite crimped yarn composed of two types of polymers has thick details alternately in the length direction of the yarn,
A special composite crimped yarn characterized in that the crimped shape is different between the thick portion and the detail of the thick detail is proposed.
【０００７】[0007]
【発明の実施の形態】本発明において、特に肝要なのが
本発明の特殊捲縮複合糸が長さ方向に交互に太細部を有
し、しかも該太細部の太部と細部で異なった捲縮形状を
有していることである。ここで捲縮形状が異なるとは、
該太細部の太部および細部における、捲縮のサイズ、捲
縮数が明らかに異なることをいい、例えば、該太細部の
太部においてはスパイラル捲縮の直径が大きく捲縮数の
少ない粗い捲縮を、細部においてはスパイラル捲縮の直
径が小さく捲縮数の多い細かい捲縮を有していることを
いう。このような繊維形状とすることにより、該複合捲
縮糸からはストレッチ性能だけでなくナチュラルなスパ
ナイズ風合を有する布帛を得ることができるのである。In the present invention, what is particularly important is that the specially crimped composite yarn of the present invention has thick details alternately in the length direction, and different crimps between the thick portion and the details. It has a shape. Here, the difference in the crimped shape means that
It means that the size of the crimp and the number of crimps in the thick portion and the detail of the thick and small portions are clearly different. For example, in the thick portion of the thick and small portion, the diameter of the spiral crimp is large and the coarse crimp is small in the number of crimps. The term “crimp” means that the spiral crimp has a small diameter with a small diameter and a large number of crimps in detail. By adopting such a fiber shape, a fabric having not only a stretch performance but also a natural spanning feeling can be obtained from the composite crimped yarn.
【０００８】上記の太部と細部における捲縮形状の差と
しては、太部の捲縮数が細部の捲縮数の８５％以下、よ
り好ましくは８０％以下、特に好ましくは７５％以下と
することが、粗い捲縮部分と細かい捲縮部分との間で明
瞭な捲縮差を発現し、よりナチュラルなスパナイズ風合
を表現できる点で好ましい。The difference between the crimped shape of the thick part and the crimped shape of the detail is that the number of crimps of the thick part is 85% or less, more preferably 80% or less, particularly preferably 75% or less of the crimp number of the detail. This is preferable in that a clear crimp difference is expressed between the coarsely crimped portion and the finely crimped portion, and a more natural spanized feeling can be expressed.
【０００９】また、該複合捲縮糸における太部と細部の
割合は太部：細部＝３０：７０〜７０：３０が好まし
く、また、太部および細部の長さはいずれも２〜１５０
ｍｍの範囲が好ましく、より好ましくは１０〜５０ｍｍ
の範囲であり、これによってさらにスパナイズな風合を
得ることができる。The ratio of the thick part to the detail in the composite crimped yarn is preferably thick part: detail = 30: 70 to 70:30, and the length of the thick part and the detail is 2 to 150.
mm is preferable, and more preferably 10 to 50 mm
, So that a more spanned feel can be obtained.
【００１０】さらに本発明の特殊複合捲縮糸は２種類の
ポリマーからなる複合捲縮糸であって、該繊維を構成す
るポリマーとしては、サイドバイサイド型または偏心芯
鞘型などの複合繊維としたとき良好なストレッチ性を発
現する組合わせであればいかなるものであっても良く、
ポリエステル、ポリアミド、ポリオレフィン、あるいは
これらの共重合体のいずれを組合わせたものであっても
良い。また、上記の２種類のポリマーとは同一ポリマー
の低粘度のものと高粘度のものの２種類であっても良
く、例えば該複合捲縮糸としてはポリエチレンテレフタ
レートの低粘度ポリマーと高粘度ポリマーとからなる複
合繊維であっても良い。Further, the special composite crimped yarn of the present invention is a composite crimped yarn composed of two kinds of polymers, and the polymer constituting the fiber is a side-by-side type or an eccentric core-sheath type composite fiber. Any combination may be used as long as it exhibits good stretchability.
Polyester, polyamide, polyolefin, or any combination of these copolymers may be used. Further, the two kinds of polymers may be two kinds of low viscosity and high viscosity of the same polymer. For example, as the composite crimped yarn, a low viscosity polymer and a high viscosity polymer of polyethylene terephthalate are used. Composite fibers.
【００１１】なかでも上記２種類のポリマーの組合わせ
としては、一方のポリマー（Ｐ1）を、ポリトリメチレ
ンテレフタレート、ポリブチレンテレフタレート、また
は、イソフタル酸、ビスフェノールＡ化合物および金属
スルホネート基を有する芳香族ジカルボン酸の群から選
択される少なくとも１種類を全酸性分を基準として８〜
１５モル％共重合したポリエチレンテレフタレートと
し、他方のポリマー（Ｐ 2）を、ポリエチレンテレフタ
レートとした組合わせが好ましい。この際、Ｐ1におい
てポリエチレンテレフタレートに共重合できる金属スル
ホネート基を有する芳香族ジカルボン酸としては、５−
ナトリウムスルホイソフタル酸、５−カリウムスルホイ
ソフタル酸、５−リチウムスルホイソフタル酸、４−ナ
トリウムスルホイソフタル酸、４−ナトリウムスルホ−
２，６−ナフタレンジカルボン酸などが挙げられるが、
特に５−ナトリウムスルホイソフタル酸が好ましく用い
られる。また、Ｐ2のポリエチレンテレフタレートは単
独で用いることが好ましいが、染色性向上などの目的
で、イソフタル酸（Ｐ1にイソフタル酸のみを共重合し
たポリエチレンテレフレートを使用する場合を除く）、
アジピン酸、セバシン酸、１，４−ブタンジオール、
１，６−へキサンジオール、ジエチレングリコール、ポ
リエチレングリコールなどの共重合成分を少量（５モル
％程度以下）含有してもよい。Ｐ2のポリエチレンテレ
フタレートの固有粘度としては０．３６〜０．４７が適
当である。以上のようなＰ1とＰ2の組合わせとしたとき
特に高いストレッチ性能が得られ、複合捲縮糸の太部お
よび細部のいずれにおいてもより明瞭な捲縮が発現し、
同時に捲縮形状の差も明確なものとなり、前述した太部
の捲縮数が細部の捲縮数の８５％以下となるような複合
捲縮糸とし易く、スパナイズ風合を容易に得ることがで
きるのである。[0011] Among them, a combination of the above two types of polymers
As one polymer (P1), Polytrimethylene
Terephthalate, polybutylene terephthalate,
Is isophthalic acid, bisphenol A compound and metal
Selected from the group of aromatic dicarboxylic acids having sulfonate groups
At least one selected from 8 to 8 based on the total acid content
15 mol% copolymerized polyethylene terephthalate
And the other polymer (P Two), Polyethylene terephthalate
Rate combinations are preferred. At this time, P1smell
Metal copolymer that can be copolymerized with polyethylene terephthalate
Examples of the aromatic dicarboxylic acid having a phonate group include 5-
Sodium sulfoisophthalic acid, 5-potassium sulfoi
Sophthalic acid, 5-lithium sulfoisophthalic acid, 4-na
Thorium sulfoisophthalic acid, 4-sodium sulfo-
2,6-naphthalenedicarboxylic acid and the like,
Particularly, 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid is preferably used.
Can be Also, PTwoPolyethylene terephthalate
It is preferable to use it by itself, but for the purpose of improving dyeability
And isophthalic acid (P1Copolymerized only with isophthalic acid
Polyethylene terephthalate),
Adipic acid, sebacic acid, 1,4-butanediol,
1,6-hexanediol, diethylene glycol,
Small amounts of copolymer components such as ethylene glycol (5 mol
% Or less). PTwoPolyethylene Tele
The intrinsic viscosity of phthalate is preferably from 0.36 to 0.47.
That's right. P as above1And PTwoWhen the combination of
Particularly high stretch performance is obtained, and the thick crimped yarn
And a clearer crimp develops in any of the details,
At the same time, the difference in the crimped shape becomes clear,
Composite such that the number of crimps is less than 85% of the number of crimps in detail
It is easy to use as a crimped yarn and can easily obtain a spanized texture.
You can.
【００１２】また、複合捲縮糸の複合形態は前述の如く
サイドバイサイド型や偏心芯鞘型などが挙げられるが、
より高いストレッチ性能が得られるサイドバイサイドが
好ましく、前述の効果をより顕著なものにできる。さら
に、該複合捲縮糸を図１−（２）〜（３）に示すように
中空断面にすると、同じデニールでも捲縮性能をさらに
高めることが可能である。この際、中空部の位置を図１
−（２）に示すようにＰ1内に配置すると、Ｐ1が収縮し
た際に、Ｐ2の屈曲を阻害しないので高い捲縮性能が得
られ、同時に製編織工程など後工程の取扱いにおいて屈
曲や伸長変形を受けた際にも両ポリマーの接合界面の剥
離も防止できる。この際、該複合捲縮糸の複合比率とし
てはＰ1：Ｐ2＝４０：６０〜６０：４０が好ましい。The composite form of the composite crimped yarn includes a side-by-side type and an eccentric core-sheath type as described above.
Side-by-side, which can provide higher stretching performance, is preferable, and the above-mentioned effects can be made more remarkable. Further, when the composite crimped yarn has a hollow cross section as shown in FIGS. 1- (2) and (3), it is possible to further improve the crimping performance even with the same denier. At this time, the position of the hollow part is
- Placing in P 1 as shown in (2), when the P 1 is contracted, it does not inhibit the bending of the P 2 obtained high crimp performance, bent at the handling of simultaneously knitting weaving process such as a later step Also, even when subjected to elongation deformation, peeling of the joint interface between both polymers can be prevented. At this time, P 1 is a composite ratio of the composite crimped yarn: P 2 = 40: 60~60: 40 is preferred.
【００１３】該複合捲縮糸を構成する単糸デニールは特
に限定されないが、衣料用に使用する場合、好ましくは
１．１〜１１．１ｄｔｅｘ（１．０〜１０．０デニー
ル）、特に１．１〜５．５ｄｔｅｘ（１．０〜５．０デ
ニール）の範囲が好ましい。The single denier constituting the composite crimped yarn is not particularly limited, but is preferably 1.1 to 11.1 dtex (1.0 to 10.0 denier), especially 1. The range of 1 to 5.5 dtex (1.0 to 5.0 denier) is preferable.
【００１４】本発明の特殊複合捲縮糸は、例えば、前述
したサイドバイサイド型複合繊維を、従来公知の方法に
より紡糸して得た未延伸糸または紡糸速度を高速にして
得た高配向未延伸糸を、該未延伸糸の自然延伸倍率領域
内で延伸して太細部を発生させ、これを織編物などの布
帛とした後で、染色工程や精練工程で高温処理すること
を利用して捲縮を発現させことによって得ることができ
る。この際、上記の延伸に供する原糸としては太部と細
部の異なった捲縮形状を発現し、太部の捲縮数が細部の
捲縮数の８５％以下となるような明瞭な捲縮差が容易に
得られる、自然延伸倍率が１．４〜２．５倍の高配向未
延伸糸が特に好ましい。また、延伸工程あるいは延伸工
程の後工程で、太細部を発生させた糸条を高温熱風や非
接触ヒータなどで熱処理して、織編物などに布帛に成形
する前に捲縮を発現させてもかまわない。The special composite crimped yarn of the present invention is, for example, an undrawn yarn obtained by spinning the aforementioned side-by-side type conjugate fiber by a conventionally known method or a highly oriented undrawn yarn obtained by increasing the spinning speed. The undrawn yarn is stretched in the natural stretch ratio region to generate thick details, and after forming this into a fabric such as a woven or knitted fabric, it is crimped by using a high temperature treatment in a dyeing process or a scouring process. Can be obtained by expressing At this time, the raw yarn to be subjected to the above-mentioned drawing exhibits a crimped shape having different thick portions and details, and a clear crimp such that the number of crimps in the thick portions is 85% or less of the number of crimps in the details. A highly oriented undrawn yarn having a natural draw ratio of 1.4 to 2.5 times, from which a difference can be easily obtained, is particularly preferable. Further, in the stretching step or the subsequent step of the stretching step, the yarn that has generated thick details is heat-treated with high-temperature hot air or a non-contact heater or the like, so that crimp can be developed before forming the fabric into a woven or knitted fabric. I don't care.
【００１５】図２は、前者の好ましい実施態様の一例を
示す概略図であり、Ｙは２種類のポリマーからなる複合
繊維の原糸、１は供給ローラ、２は予熱ローラ、３はプ
レートヒータ、４は引取りローラ、５は巻取装置であ
る。該高配向未延伸糸Ｙは、供給ローラ１により供給さ
れ、予熱ローラ２で予熱され、該予熱ローラ２と引取り
ローラ４との間で、この間に設置されたプレートヒータ
３で加熱されながら所定の延伸倍率で延伸されて、巻取
り装置５で巻き取られる。FIG. 2 is a schematic view showing an example of the former preferred embodiment, wherein Y is a raw yarn of a composite fiber composed of two kinds of polymers, 1 is a supply roller, 2 is a preheating roller, 3 is a plate heater, 4 is a take-up roller and 5 is a winding device. The highly oriented unstretched yarn Y is supplied by a supply roller 1, preheated by a preheating roller 2, and is heated between a preheating roller 2 and a take-up roller 4 while being heated by a plate heater 3 provided therebetween. And the film is wound up by the winding device 5.
【００１６】具体的な条件としては、例えば、イソフタ
ル酸を８〜１５モル％共重合したポリエチレンテレフタ
レートとポリエチレンテレフタレートとのサイドバイサ
イド型複合繊維の自然延伸倍率が１．７５倍の高配向未
延伸糸を用いた場合、予熱温度（予熱ヒータ２の温度）
を８０〜１００℃、延伸温度（プレートヒータ３の温
度）を１６０〜１９０℃、延伸速度（引取りローラ３の
速度）を５００〜８００ｍ／分とすることによって得る
ことができる。この際の、延伸倍率は前述のように未延
伸糸または高配向未延伸糸の自然延伸倍率領域内、好ま
しくは自然延伸倍率の２０〜９０％を採用すれば良い。As specific conditions, for example, a highly oriented undrawn yarn having a natural draw ratio of 1.75 times of a side-by-side type conjugate fiber of polyethylene terephthalate obtained by copolymerizing 8 to 15 mol% of isophthalic acid is used. If used, preheating temperature (temperature of preheating heater 2)
80 to 100 ° C., a stretching temperature (temperature of the plate heater 3) of 160 to 190 ° C., and a stretching speed (speed of the take-off roller 3) of 500 to 800 m / min. At this time, as described above, the stretching ratio may be within the natural stretching ratio region of the undrawn yarn or the highly oriented undrawn yarn, preferably 20 to 90% of the natural stretching ratio.
【００１７】以上のような条件を採用することによって
太細部を有する延伸糸を得、例えばこれを織編物などと
して従来公知の条件により精練および／または染色処理
することによって太部と細部に異なる捲縮形状を容易に
発現させることができ、太部の捲縮数が細部の捲縮数の
８５％以下となるような明瞭な捲縮差を有する特殊捲縮
複合繊維を容易に得ることができる。A drawn yarn having thick details is obtained by adopting the above-mentioned conditions, and the drawn yarn is subjected to scouring and / or dyeing treatment under conventionally known conditions, for example, as a woven or knitted fabric. The crimped shape can be easily developed, and a special crimped conjugate fiber having a distinct crimp difference such that the number of crimps in the thick portion is 85% or less of the number of crimps in the detail can be easily obtained. .
【００１８】また、前述の如く織編物とする前に捲縮を
発現させる場合は、熱風温度や非接触ヒータの温度とし
て８０〜１３０℃が好ましく採用される。When crimping is developed before forming the woven or knitted fabric as described above, the temperature of the hot air or the temperature of the non-contact heater is preferably 80 to 130 ° C.
【００１９】さらに、該特殊複合捲縮糸を複数本交絡お
よび／または撚糸した特殊複合捲縮糸からは従来にない
表面変化に富んだ織物を得ることができる。この際の合
糸する特殊複合捲縮糸の本数としては２〜３本が好まし
い。また、該特殊複合捲縮糸に交絡および／または撚糸
を付与する場合は、合糸した糸の太さにもよるが交絡数
は３０〜６０ケ／ｍ、撚数は３００〜１６００Ｔ／ｍと
することが好ましい。Further, from the special composite crimped yarn in which a plurality of the special composite crimped yarns are entangled and / or twisted, it is possible to obtain a woven fabric having a surface change which has not been achieved before. In this case, the number of special composite crimped yarns to be combined is preferably two to three. In addition, when imparting entangled and / or twisted yarns to the special composite crimped yarn, the number of entanglements is 30 to 60 / m, and the number of twists is 300 to 1600 T / m, depending on the thickness of the plied yarn. Is preferred.
【００２０】[0020]
【実施例】以下、実施例により詳細に説明する。実施例
における特性値などの測定法は次ぎの通りである。 （１）固有粘度 フェノールと四塩化エタン１：１混合触媒中２０℃で測
定。 （２）繊度 ＪＩＳ Ｌ１０９０−５−３の方法で測定。 （３）強度、伸度 ＪＩＳ Ｌ１０９０−５−５−１の方法で測定。 （４）熱収縮率 ＪＩＳ Ｌ１０９０−５−１０−Ａの方法で測定。 （５）捲縮数 ３０００デニールの綛を作りこれを濃淡差が識別できる
染料（例えばチバガイギ社のテラトップブルーＧＬＦな
ど）を溶かした水溶液で１０分間フリーの状態で沸水処
理し、乾燥後、単繊維をサンプリングし、２ｃｍ以上の
長さで、濃染となっている太部と淡染となっている細部
で、それぞれ２ｃｍ単位でマークを付与し、マーク間の
クリンプ数と繊維長を各々１０個所測定し、繊維長１ｃ
ｍ当りのクリンプ数の平均値を算出する。この際、繊維
長は０．８ｍＮ／ｄｔｅｘ（０．１ｇ／ｄｅ）の荷重下
で長さを測定する。 （６）捲縮率 糸条に０．００２６ｍＮ／ｄｔｅｘ（０．３０ｍｇ／ｄ
ｅ）の荷重を掛け、沸水中で２０分間捲縮発現処理をし
た後、1日放置して乾燥し、糸長Ｌ0を測定する。次いで
１．７ｍＮ／ｄｔｅｘ（０．２０ｇ／ｄｅ）の重荷重を
掛け２分後に糸長Ｌ1を測定し、次式で捲縮率を算出す
る。 捲縮率＝［（Ｌ1−Ｌ0）／Ｌ1］×１００（％）The present invention will be described below in detail with reference to examples. The method of measuring the characteristic values and the like in the examples is as follows. (1) Intrinsic viscosity Measured at 20 ° C. in a 1: 1 mixed catalyst of phenol and ethane tetrachloride. (2) Fineness Measured by the method of JIS L1090-5-3. (3) Strength and elongation Measured according to the method of JIS L1090-5-5-1. (4) Heat shrinkage rate Measured according to the method of JIS L1090-5-10-A. (5) A skein with a number of crimps of 3,000 deniers is prepared and subjected to a boiling water treatment in a free state for 10 minutes with an aqueous solution in which a dye (for example, Teratop Blue GLF of Ciba Geigy Co., Ltd.) in which the difference in density can be distinguished, dried, and dried. The fibers are sampled, and the length is 2 cm or more. Marks are given in units of 2 cm in thick and lightly dyed details, and the number of crimps between the marks and the fiber length are each 10 cm. Measured at each point, fiber length 1c
The average value of the number of crimps per m is calculated. At this time, the fiber length is measured under a load of 0.8 mN / dtex (0.1 g / de). (6) Crimping rate 0.0026 mN / dtex (0.30 mg / d)
a load of e), after the 20 minutes crimp treated with boiling water, left to dry for 1 day, measuring the yarn length L 0. Then yarn length L 1 measured 2 minutes after multiplied by the weight load of 1.7mN / dtex (0.20g / de) , calculates the shrinkage wound by the following equation. Crimp rate = [(L 1 −L 0 ) / L 1 ] × 100 (%)
【００２１】［実施例１］イソフタル酸を１０モル％共
重合したポリエチレンテレフタレートと、［η］＝０．
４３のポリエチレンテレフタレートとを重量比１：１と
して、図１−（３）に示すような断面形状が得られるサ
イドバイサイド型紡糸口金を用いて紡速２６００ｍ／分
で紡糸し、１１１ｄｔｅｘ（１００デニール）／２４フ
ィラメント、強度１４ｍＮ／ｄｔｅｘ（１．６ｇ／ｄ
ｅ）、伸度１５３％、自然延伸倍率１．７、中空率１％
の高配向未延伸糸を得た。Example 1 Polyethylene terephthalate obtained by copolymerizing isophthalic acid at 10 mol% and [η] = 0.
With the polyethylene terephthalate of No. 43 in a weight ratio of 1: 1, spinning was performed at a spinning speed of 2600 m / min using a side-by-side type spinneret having a cross-sectional shape as shown in FIG. 1- (3), and 111 dtex (100 denier) / 24 filaments, strength 14 mN / dtex (1.6 g / d
e), elongation 153%, natural stretching ratio 1.7, hollow ratio 1%
Was obtained.
【００２２】次いでこの高配向未延伸糸を原糸として図
１に示す延伸装置を用いて、供給ローラ１と予熱ローラ
２との間の第１延伸倍率（ＤＲ１）を１．０２倍、予熱
ローラ２の温度を８５℃、予熱ローラ２と引取りローラ
４との間の第２延伸倍率（ＤＲ２）を１．５５倍、プレ
ートヒータ３の温度を１６０℃とした条件で６００ｍ／
分で延伸した。Next, using the highly oriented undrawn yarn as a raw yarn and using the drawing device shown in FIG. 1, the first drawing ratio (DR1) between the supply roller 1 and the preheating roller 2 is 1.02 times, 2 at a temperature of 85 ° C., a second stretching ratio (DR2) between the preheating roller 2 and the take-up roller 4 of 1.55 times, and a temperature of the plate heater 3 of 160 ° C. at 600 m / m 2.
Stretched in minutes.
【００２３】得られた延伸糸は７２ｄｔｅｘ（６５デニ
ール）／２４フィラメント、強度が２０ｍＮ／ｄｔｅｘ
（２．３ｇ／ｄｅ）、伸度が５５％、捲縮率（ＴＣ）が
３５％、沸水収縮（ＦＳ）が１３％であった。また、該
延伸糸の太部および細部の捲縮数の平均値はそれぞれ５
ケ／ｃｍ、７ケ／ｃｍであり捲縮数の比（太部の捲縮数
の平均値／細部の捲縮数の平均値）は０．７１であっ
た。さらに、該延伸糸を筒状に編み立てて染色したとこ
ろ糸の長さ方向に太さ斑、染色斑、捲縮形態差がランダ
ムに発生しナチュラルな外観と嵩高性を有したスパナイ
ズ風合が認められた。The obtained drawn yarn is 72 dtex (65 denier) / 24 filaments and has a strength of 20 mN / dtex.
(2.3 g / de), elongation was 55%, crimp rate (TC) was 35%, and boiling water shrinkage (FS) was 13%. Also, the average value of the number of crimps of the thick part and the detail part of the drawn yarn is 5
And the ratio of the number of crimps (the average value of the number of crimps in the thick part / the average value of the number of crimps in the detail) was 0.71. Furthermore, when the drawn yarn was knitted into a tubular shape and dyed, unevenness in thickness, unevenness in dyeing, a difference in crimping form in the length direction of the yarn occurred randomly, and a naturalized appearance and bulkiness having a bulkiness were generated. Admitted.
【００２４】該糸条を用いて１２００Ｔ／ｍの撚糸を施
し８０℃で撚止めセットを行なった後、経糸密度１８９
本／インチの緯糸密度１２１本／インチの綾織物を織
り、次いで１２０℃の温水で２０分間よくもみながら精
練リラックスを行ない、１８０℃でプレセットしてから
１７％のアルカリ減量を施し、１３０℃で４５分間染色
した後、１６０℃で最終セットして製品を得た。After twisting 1200 T / m using the yarn and setting the twist at 80 ° C., the warp density was 189.
Weaving a twill fabric with a weft density of 121 yarns / inch and a weft density of 121 yarns / inch, followed by scouring and relaxing with warm water at 120 ° C for 20 minutes, preset at 180 ° C, subject to a 17% alkali weight loss, 130 ° C , And finally set at 160 ° C to obtain a product.
【００２５】得られた製品は、ナチュラルなスパナイズ
外観と風合を有しストレッチ性は１９％（経方向と緯方
向の平均値）、回復率は８９％と好調であった。The obtained product had a natural spanized appearance and feeling, had a good stretchability of 19% (average value in the warp and weft directions), and had a good recovery rate of 89%.
【００２６】なお、該糸条の撚数を７００Ｔ／ｍにし、
それ以外は上記と同様の条件にて製品を得たところ、織
物表面に細やかなしぼ状の凹凸が現われ、低い撚数にも
かかわらず新規な表面変化織物が得られた。The number of twists of the yarn is 700 T / m,
Otherwise, when the product was obtained under the same conditions as described above, fine grain-like irregularities appeared on the surface of the fabric, and a new surface-changed fabric was obtained despite the low twist number.
【００２７】［実施例２］イソフタル酸を１０モル％共
重合したポリエチレンテレフタレートをポリトリメチレ
ンテレフタレートとした以外は実施例１と同様にして、
１１１ｄｔｅｘ（１００デニール）／２４フィラメン
ト、強度１３ｍＮ／ｄｔｅｘ（１．５ｇ／ｄｅ）、伸度
１５５％、自然延伸倍率１．６５％、中空率１％の高配
向未延伸糸を得た。Example 2 The procedure of Example 1 was repeated, except that polyethylene terephthalate obtained by copolymerizing 10% by mole of isophthalic acid was replaced by polytrimethylene terephthalate.
A highly oriented undrawn yarn having 111 dtex (100 denier) / 24 filaments, a strength of 13 mN / dtex (1.5 g / de), an elongation of 155%, a natural draw ratio of 1.65%, and a hollow ratio of 1% was obtained.
【００２８】次いでこの高配向未延伸糸を原糸として第
２延伸倍率（ＤＲ２）を１．５倍とした以外は実施例１
と同様の方法で延伸し、７５ｄｔｅｘ（６８デニール）
／２４フィラメント、強度が１７ｍＮ／ｄｔｅｘ（１．
９ｇ／ｄｅ）、伸度が５０％、捲縮率（ＴＣ）が４８
％、沸水収縮（ＦＳ）が１６％の延伸糸を得た。また、
該延伸糸の太部および細部の捲縮数の平均値はそれぞれ
６ケ／ｃｍ、９ケ／ｃｍであり捲縮数の比（太部の捲縮
数の平均値／細部の捲縮数の平均値）は０．６７であっ
た。さらに、該延伸糸を筒状に編み立てて染色したとこ
ろ実施例１と同様に糸の長さ方向に太さ斑、染色斑、捲
縮形態差がランダムに発生しナチュラルな外観と嵩高性
を有したスパナイズ風合が認められた。Next, the same procedure as in Example 1 was carried out except that the highly oriented undrawn yarn was used as the original yarn and the second draw ratio (DR2) was set to 1.5 times.
Stretched in the same manner as above, and 75 dtex (68 denier)
/ 24 filament, strength of 17 mN / dtex (1.
9 g / de), elongation 50%, crimp rate (TC) 48
%, And a drawn yarn having a boiling water shrinkage (FS) of 16% was obtained. Also,
The average value of the number of crimps of the thick part and the detail of the drawn yarn is 6 / cm and 9 / cm, respectively, and the ratio of the number of crimps (the average value of the number of crimps of the thick part / the number of crimps of the detail). (Average value) was 0.67. Further, when the drawn yarn was knitted into a tubular shape and dyed, unevenness in thickness, stained spots, and differences in crimping form were randomly generated in the length direction of the yarn in the same manner as in Example 1 to reduce the natural appearance and bulkiness. A possessed spanized texture was recognized.
【００２９】なお、該糸条を実施例１と同じ条件で撚糸
・撚止めセットし、経糸密度１８０本／インチの緯糸密
度１１５本／インチの綾織物となるように製織した以外
は、実施例１と同条件で精練リラックス、アルカリ減
量、最終熱セットを施した。得られた製品はナチュラル
なスパナイズ外観と風合を有しているだけでなく、スト
レッチ性が２７％、回復率が９４％と実施例１よりもス
トレッチ性、回復率が優れていた。The procedure of Example 1 was repeated except that the yarn was twisted and twist-set under the same conditions as in Example 1 and woven into a twill fabric having a warp density of 180 threads / inch and a weft density of 115 threads / inch. Under the same conditions as in 1, scouring relaxation, alkali weight reduction, and final heat setting were performed. The obtained product not only had a natural spanized appearance and texture, but also had a stretchability of 27% and a recovery rate of 94%, which were superior to those of Example 1 in stretchability and recovery rate.
【００３０】［比較例］実施例１で得た高配向未延伸糸
を原糸として供給ローラ１と予熱ローラ２の間で延伸倍
率（ＤＲ１）を１．０２倍、予熱ローラ２の温度を９０
℃、予熱ローラと引取りローラ間の延伸倍率（ＤＲ２）
を１．８５、プレートヒータ温度を１８０℃の条件に
て、６００ｍ／分の速度で延伸を行なった。Comparative Example Using the highly oriented undrawn yarn obtained in Example 1 as a raw yarn, the draw ratio (DR1) between the supply roller 1 and the preheating roller 2 was 1.02 times, and the temperature of the preheating roller 2 was 90.
° C, stretching ratio between preheating roller and take-up roller (DR2)
Under the conditions of 1.85 and a plate heater temperature of 180 ° C., at a speed of 600 m / min.
【００３１】得られた糸条は６２ｄｔｅｘ（５６デニー
ル）／２４フィラメント強度が２８ｍＮ／ｄｔｅｘ
（３．２ｇ／ｄｅ）、伸度が３１％、捲縮率（ＴＣ）が
４０％、沸水収縮率（ＦＳ）が９％であった。さらに、
実施例１と同様にして筒編および綾織物を作成した。そ
の結果、筒編および綾織物には染色あるいは精練リラッ
クスにおいても、糸の長さ方向に太さ斑、染色斑、捲縮
形状差が発生せず、人工的で均一なフラットヤーン風の
スムースな筒編および綾織物の表面となり、ストレッチ
性はストレッチ率が２４％、回復率が９２％と良好であ
ったが、ナチュラルなスパナイズ風合は得られなかっ
た。The obtained yarn has a 62 dtex (56 denier) / 24 filament strength of 28 mN / dtex.
(3.2 g / de), elongation was 31%, crimp rate (TC) was 40%, and boiling water shrinkage rate (FS) was 9%. further,
A tubular knit and a twill fabric were prepared in the same manner as in Example 1. As a result, even in dyeing or scouring relaxation of tubular knits and twill fabrics, there is no unevenness of thickness, unevenness of dyeing, difference in crimped shape in the length direction of the yarn, and a smooth, artificial and uniform flat yarn style The surface of the tubular knitted fabric and twill fabric was obtained, and the stretchability was as good as a stretch ratio of 24% and a recovery ratio of 92%, but a natural spanized texture was not obtained.
【００３２】[0032]
【発明の効果】本発明によれば、ストレッチ機能を有
し、嵩高性があり、同時に太細部で捲縮形状が異なるた
めナチュラルなスパナイズ風合を有する布帛が得られる
特殊複合捲縮糸を提供することができ、特に衣料用途で
新規な素材を提供しうるものである。また、該複合捲縮
糸は太細部で染着性が異なり、これを構成する２種類の
ポリマーの組合せによっては該染着差をより際立たせる
ことができるため、捲縮差だけでなく色調によってもさ
らにナチュラルな外観を表現できるといった効果を奏す
るものである。According to the present invention, there is provided a special composite crimped yarn which has a stretch function, is bulky, and at the same time, has a large crimped shape and a different crimped shape. And can provide a novel material especially for clothing use. In addition, the composite crimped yarn has different dyeing properties in thick details, and the dyeing difference can be made more prominent depending on the combination of the two types of polymers constituting the composite crimped yarn. Has an effect of being able to express a more natural appearance.
【図１】本発明に係る特殊複合捲縮糸の一例を示す断面
図。FIG. 1 is a sectional view showing an example of a special composite crimped yarn according to the present invention.
【図２】本発明に係る特殊複合捲縮糸の製造工程の一例
を示す概略図。FIG. 2 is a schematic view showing an example of a production process of a special composite crimped yarn according to the present invention.
Ｈ 中空部 Ｐ1，Ｐ2 ２種類のポリマー成分 Ｙ 原糸 １ 供給ローラ ２ 予熱ローラ ３ プレートヒータ ４ 引取りローラ ５ 巻取り装置H hollow portion P 1, P 2 2 kinds of polymer components Y yarn 1 supplying roller 2 preheating roller 3 plate heater 4 draw-off roller 5 take-up device
Claims (5)
おいて、糸の長さ方向に交互に太細部を有し、該太細部
の太部と細部とで捲縮形状が異なることを特徴とする特
殊複合捲縮糸。1. A composite crimped yarn comprising two types of polymers, characterized in that the yarn has thick details alternately in the length direction of the yarn, and the crimped shape differs between the thick portion and the details of the thick details. Special composite crimped yarn.
下である請求項１記載の特殊複合捲縮糸。2. The special composite crimped yarn according to claim 1, wherein the number of crimps in the thick portion is not more than 85% of the number of crimps in the detail.
レフタレート、ポリブチレンテレフタレート、または、
イソフタル酸、ビスフェノールＡ化合物および金属スル
ホネート基を有する芳香族ジカルボン酸の群から選択さ
れる少なくとも１種を８〜１５モル％共重合したポリエ
チレンテレフタレートとし、他方のポリマーをポリエチ
レンテレフタレートとするサイドバイサイド型複合捲縮
糸である請求項１または２記載の特殊複合捲縮糸。3. The method of claim 1, wherein one of the polymers is polytrimethylene terephthalate, polybutylene terephthalate, or
Side-by-side composite winding in which at least one selected from the group consisting of isophthalic acid, a bisphenol A compound and an aromatic dicarboxylic acid having a metal sulfonate group is polyethylene terephthalate copolymerized at 8 to 15 mol%, and the other polymer is polyethylene terephthalate. 3. The special composite crimped yarn according to claim 1, which is a crimped yarn.
〜３のいずれか１項記載の特殊複合捲縮糸。4. The composite crimped yarn having a hollow cross section.
4. The special composite crimped yarn according to any one of items 3 to 3.
捲縮糸が複数本交絡および／または撚糸してなる特殊複
合捲縮糸。5. A special composite crimped yarn obtained by interlacing and / or twisting a plurality of the special composite crimped yarns according to claim 1.
Priority Applications (1)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| JP28939499A JP3598027B2 (en) | 1999-10-12 | 1999-10-12 | Special composite crimped yarn |
Applications Claiming Priority (1)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| JP28939499A JP3598027B2 (en) | 1999-10-12 | 1999-10-12 | Special composite crimped yarn |
Publications (2)
| Publication Number | Publication Date |
|---|---|
| JP2001115344A true JP2001115344A (en) | 2001-04-24 |
| JP3598027B2 JP3598027B2 (en) | 2004-12-08 |
Family
ID=17742665
Family Applications (1)
| Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
|---|---|---|---|
| JP28939499A Expired - Lifetime JP3598027B2 (en) | 1999-10-12 | 1999-10-12 | Special composite crimped yarn |
Country Status (1)
| Country | Link |
|---|---|
| JP (1) | JP3598027B2 (en) |
Cited By (3)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| WO2003093547A1 (en) * | 2002-05-02 | 2003-11-13 | Teijin Fibers Limited | Polyester conjugate filament thick-fine yarn fabric and method for production thereof |
| JP2007204900A (en) * | 2006-02-06 | 2007-08-16 | Teijin Fibers Ltd | Polyester fiber for air-laid nonwoven fabric and method for producing the same |
| JP2008115497A (en) * | 2006-11-06 | 2008-05-22 | Teijin Fibers Ltd | Polyester-conjugated type filament and combined filament yarn using the same |
-
1999
- 1999-10-12 JP JP28939499A patent/JP3598027B2/en not_active Expired - Lifetime
Cited By (3)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| WO2003093547A1 (en) * | 2002-05-02 | 2003-11-13 | Teijin Fibers Limited | Polyester conjugate filament thick-fine yarn fabric and method for production thereof |
| JP2007204900A (en) * | 2006-02-06 | 2007-08-16 | Teijin Fibers Ltd | Polyester fiber for air-laid nonwoven fabric and method for producing the same |
| JP2008115497A (en) * | 2006-11-06 | 2008-05-22 | Teijin Fibers Ltd | Polyester-conjugated type filament and combined filament yarn using the same |
Also Published As
| Publication number | Publication date |
|---|---|
| JP3598027B2 (en) | 2004-12-08 |
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