WO2006041200A1 - Woven/knit fabric including crimped fiber and becoming rugged upon humidification, process for producing the same, and textile product - Google Patents

Woven/knit fabric including crimped fiber and becoming rugged upon humidification, process for producing the same, and textile product Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2006041200A1
WO2006041200A1 PCT/JP2005/019245 JP2005019245W WO2006041200A1 WO 2006041200 A1 WO2006041200 A1 WO 2006041200A1 JP 2005019245 W JP2005019245 W JP 2005019245W WO 2006041200 A1 WO2006041200 A1 WO 2006041200A1
Authority
WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
woven
fiber
knitted fabric
crimped
water
Prior art date
Application number
PCT/JP2005/019245
Other languages
French (fr)
Japanese (ja)
Inventor
Satoshi Yasui
Takeshi Yamaguchi
Masato Yoshimoto
Shigeru Morioka
Original Assignee
Teijin Fibers Limited
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Teijin Fibers Limited filed Critical Teijin Fibers Limited
Priority to EP05795767.2A priority Critical patent/EP1801274B1/en
Priority to CA 2579211 priority patent/CA2579211C/en
Priority to CN2005800351613A priority patent/CN101040076B/en
Priority to KR1020077008208A priority patent/KR101220720B1/en
Priority to US11/665,349 priority patent/US20070270067A1/en
Publication of WO2006041200A1 publication Critical patent/WO2006041200A1/en

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Classifications

    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06CFINISHING, DRESSING, TENTERING OR STRETCHING TEXTILE FABRICS
    • D06C7/00Heating or cooling textile fabrics
    • D06C7/02Setting
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04BKNITTING
    • D04B1/00Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/14Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials
    • D04B1/18Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials elastic threads
    • D04B1/20Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials elastic threads crimped threads
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41WEARING APPAREL
    • A41DOUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
    • A41D31/00Materials specially adapted for outerwear
    • A41D31/04Materials specially adapted for outerwear characterised by special function or use
    • A41D31/14Air permeable, i.e. capable of being penetrated by gases
    • A41D31/145Air permeable, i.e. capable of being penetrated by gases using layered materials
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D01NATURAL OR MAN-MADE THREADS OR FIBRES; SPINNING
    • D01DMECHANICAL METHODS OR APPARATUS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF ARTIFICIAL FILAMENTS, THREADS, FIBRES, BRISTLES OR RIBBONS
    • D01D5/00Formation of filaments, threads, or the like
    • D01D5/22Formation of filaments, threads, or the like with a crimped or curled structure; with a special structure to simulate wool
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03WEAVING
    • D03DWOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/50Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/567Shapes or effects upon shrinkage
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04BKNITTING
    • D04B1/00Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/14Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials
    • D04B1/16Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials synthetic threads
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04BKNITTING
    • D04B21/00Warp knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04BKNITTING
    • D04B21/00Warp knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B21/14Fabrics characterised by the incorporation by knitting, in one or more thread, fleece, or fabric layers, of reinforcing, binding, or decorative threads; Fabrics incorporating small auxiliary elements, e.g. for decorative purposes
    • D04B21/16Fabrics characterised by the incorporation by knitting, in one or more thread, fleece, or fabric layers, of reinforcing, binding, or decorative threads; Fabrics incorporating small auxiliary elements, e.g. for decorative purposes incorporating synthetic threads
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06CFINISHING, DRESSING, TENTERING OR STRETCHING TEXTILE FABRICS
    • D06C7/00Heating or cooling textile fabrics
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41WEARING APPAREL
    • A41DOUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
    • A41D31/00Materials specially adapted for outerwear
    • A41D31/04Materials specially adapted for outerwear characterised by special function or use
    • A41D31/12Hygroscopic; Water retaining
    • A41D31/125Moisture handling or wicking function through layered materials
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2401/00Physical properties
    • D10B2401/02Moisture-responsive characteristics
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2403/00Details of fabric structure established in the fabric forming process
    • D10B2403/01Surface features
    • D10B2403/011Dissimilar front and back faces
    • D10B2403/0114Dissimilar front and back faces with one or more yarns appearing predominantly on one face, e.g. plated or paralleled yarns
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2403/00Details of fabric structure established in the fabric forming process
    • D10B2403/02Cross-sectional features
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2403/00Details of fabric structure established in the fabric forming process
    • D10B2403/02Cross-sectional features
    • D10B2403/023Fabric with at least two, predominantly unlinked, knitted or woven plies interlaced with each other at spaced locations or linked to a common internal co-extensive yarn system
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2403/00Details of fabric structure established in the fabric forming process
    • D10B2403/03Shape features
    • D10B2403/033Three dimensional fabric, e.g. forming or comprising cavities in or protrusions from the basic planar configuration, or deviations from the cylindrical shape as generally imposed by the fabric forming process
    • D10B2403/0331Three dimensional fabric, e.g. forming or comprising cavities in or protrusions from the basic planar configuration, or deviations from the cylindrical shape as generally imposed by the fabric forming process with one or more convex or concave portions of limited extension, e.g. domes or pouches
    • YGENERAL TAGGING OF NEW TECHNOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENTS; GENERAL TAGGING OF CROSS-SECTIONAL TECHNOLOGIES SPANNING OVER SEVERAL SECTIONS OF THE IPC; TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC CROSS-REFERENCE ART COLLECTIONS [XRACs] AND DIGESTS
    • Y10TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC
    • Y10TTECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER US CLASSIFICATION
    • Y10T442/00Fabric [woven, knitted, or nonwoven textile or cloth, etc.]
    • Y10T442/30Woven fabric [i.e., woven strand or strip material]
    • Y10T442/3065Including strand which is of specific structural definition
    • YGENERAL TAGGING OF NEW TECHNOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENTS; GENERAL TAGGING OF CROSS-SECTIONAL TECHNOLOGIES SPANNING OVER SEVERAL SECTIONS OF THE IPC; TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC CROSS-REFERENCE ART COLLECTIONS [XRACs] AND DIGESTS
    • Y10TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC
    • Y10TTECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER US CLASSIFICATION
    • Y10T442/00Fabric [woven, knitted, or nonwoven textile or cloth, etc.]
    • Y10T442/40Knit fabric [i.e., knit strand or strip material]
    • Y10T442/425Including strand which is of specific structural definition

Definitions

  • Crimped fiber-containing woven or knitted fabric in which irregularities appear by water wetting, as well as its production method and textile product
  • the present invention relates to a crimped fiber-containing woven or knitted fabric that exhibits unevenness when wet with water.
  • the present invention relates to a manufacturing method and a textile product. More specifically, the present invention includes a crimped fiber in which the crimping rate is reduced by water wetting and a fiber different from the crimped fiber, and the surface of the woven or knitted fabric is uneven by water wetting. Woven knitted or knitted fabric that has the property that the unevenness is reduced or disappeared by drying, so that even if the woven or knitted garment gets wet by sweating, the garment does not adhere to the skin, or its production method and textile product It is about.
  • a method of using a highly hygroscopic fiber as a material constituting the garment, and a structure and density of the woven or knitted fabric constituting the garment are roughened and the ventilation is performed.
  • a multilayer structure woven or knitted fabric creates a difference in density between the outer layer and inner layer (skin side), and quickly transfers the sweat absorbed on the skin side to the outside.
  • Use possible woven or knitted fabric see, for example, Patent Document 1 To reduce stickiness by reducing the contact area between skin and clothes
  • Patent Document 1 Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 9 1 3 16757
  • Patent Document 2 Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 10-131000
  • Patent Document 3 Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 9-324313 Disclosure of Invention
  • An object of the present invention is to include a woven or knitted fabric in which irregularities appear on the surface of the woven or knitted fabric when wet, and the unevenness is reduced or eliminated by drying, and a method for producing the woven or knitted fabric. It is to provide a textile product that does not cause discomfort due to wetting caused by water.
  • the above object is achieved by the crimped fiber-containing woven or knitted fabric of the present invention, the production method thereof, and the textile product.
  • the crimped fiber-containing woven or knitted fabric that exhibits irregularities when wetted with water includes a yarn containing a crimped fiber (A) whose crimping rate decreases when wetted with water, and a non-crimped fiber and wetted with water.
  • the shrinkage has changed substantially A knitted or knitted fabric containing yarns containing at least one type of fiber B selected from non-crimped fibers,
  • the woven or knitted fabric was allowed to stand for 24 hours in an environment of a temperature of 20 and a humidity of 65% RH.
  • the thickness TD of the woven or knitted fabric after being left for 24 hours, and 1 ml of water were dropped on the woven or knitted fabric for 1 minute. From the maximum thickness TW of the water-wet part of the woven or knitted fabric after elapse of time, the unevenness change rate calculated by the following formula:
  • Unevenness change rate (%) ((TW-TD) / TD) X 100 is characterized by being 5% or more.
  • the crimped fibers A are different from each other in water supply and self-extension properties, and are joined in a side-by-side shape. It is preferably selected from crimped composite fibers comprising a polyester fiber resin component and a polyamide resin component and having crimps formed by expressing the latent crimp performance.
  • the polyester fiber resin component is based on the content of the acid component.
  • the lithium sulfoisophthalic acid is preferably composed of a modified polyethylene terephthalate resin copolymerized with 2.0 to 4.5 mol%.
  • the yarn containing the crimped fiber A preferably has a twist number of 0 to 300 T Zm.
  • the fiber B is preferably formed of a polyester resin.
  • the woven or knitted fabric is composed only of the crimped fiber A 1 Having at least one portion Y and at least one portion selected from the warp and weft directions of the knitted or knitted fabric, wherein the Hij d Z portion has at least one portion Y composed of only the fibers (B).
  • Direction, or course and c: may be formed continuously in at least one direction selected from one direction.
  • the woven or knitted fabric is composed of only one or more partial ridges composed of the fibers B, and the fibers (A). And at least one direction selected from the warp and weft directions of the woven or knitted fabric, or the course and the wale. It may be formed continuously in at least one direction selected from the directions.
  • the woven or knitted fabric is composed of at least one portion X constituted by the crimped fiber A and the fiber B, and And at least one portion Y composed only of the crimped fiber A, and the X portion is selected from at least one direction selected from the warp and weft directions of the woven or knitted fabric, or from the course and wale directions. It may be formed continuously in at least one selected direction.
  • the woven or knitted fabric is composed of at least one portion X composed of the crimped pd crimped fiber A and the fiber B, and At least one part Y composed only of the crimped fiber A and only the fiber B is formed.
  • At least one part z, and the Z part is selected from at least one direction selected from the warp and weft direction of the weaving knitted fabric, or from the course and wale direction. It may be formed continuously in at least one direction.
  • the woven or knitted fabric has a multilayer woven or knitted structure of two or more layers, and at least one layer in the multilayered structure is the above-mentioned Consists of crimped fibers A and B, at least one other layer is composed of only the fibers B, and the fibers A and B-containing layers and the fiber B-containing layers are partially interchanged. It may be connected to the cable.
  • the woven or knitted fabric has a multilayer woven or knitted structure of two or more layers, and at least one layer in the multilayered structure is the crimped Consists of fiber A and fiber B, and at least one other layer is composed only of the crimped fiber A, and the fiber A and B-containing layer and the crimped fiber-containing layer are partially mutually It may be connected.
  • the woven or knitted fabric has a multilayer woven or knitted structure of two or more layers, and at least one layer in the multilayered structure is the crimped It is composed only of the fiber A, and at least one other layer is composed only of the crimped fiber B, and the crimped fiber-containing layer and the fiber B-containing layer are partially connected to each other. It may be.
  • the method for producing a crimped fiber-containing woven or knitted fabric of the present invention is a method for producing a crimped fiber-containing woven or knitted fabric that exhibits unevenness by water-wetting according to the present invention, wherein the crimped fiber is expressed by heat treatment, When the crimp is wetted with water, the crimp has a property of reducing the crimp rate, a fiber for forming the crimped fiber A, a fiber that does not exhibit crimp by the heat treatment, and The crimp is formed by the heat treatment, but the crimp is formed of at least one fiber selected from fibers that do not substantially reduce the crimp rate due to wetting with water.
  • a process for producing a precursor knitted fabric from fibers and a heat treatment applied to the precursor knitted fabric And a step of forming a woven or knitted fabric containing the crimped fiber A and the fiber B.
  • the crimped fibers A forming fibers are different from each other in water absorption and self-extension properties, and are joined in a side-by-one-side type. It is preferable to select from uncrimped composite fibers composed of a resin component and a polyamide resin component.
  • the polyester resin component in the uncrimped composite fiber includes a polyester resin having an intrinsic viscosity of 0.30 to 0.43, and It is preferable that the resin component contains a polyamide resin having an intrinsic viscosity of 1.0 to 1.4.
  • the difference between the dry crimp rate DC and the water wet crimp rate HC (DC-HC) force is preferably 0.5% or more.
  • the textile product of the present invention includes the crimped fiber-containing woven or knitted fabric of the present invention.
  • the textile product of the present invention is preferably applied from outer clothing, sports clothing, and inner clothing.
  • the crimped fiber A whose crimping rate is reduced by water wetting and the fiber B which does not substantially change the crimping rate by water wetting, the surface is uneven by water wetting and is dried by drying.
  • FIG. 1 is an explanatory view showing a cross-sectional shape of an example of a crimped conjugate fiber used in the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention.
  • FIG. 2 is an explanatory view showing a cross-sectional shape of another example of the crimped conjugate fiber used in the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention.
  • FIG. 3 is an explanatory view showing a cross-sectional shape of still another example of the crimped conjugate fiber used in the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention.
  • FIG. 4 (A) is an explanatory view showing the cross-sectional shape in the dry state of an example of the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention
  • FIG. 4 (B) shows the cross-sectional shape in the water-wet state of the woven or knitted fabric. It is an explanatory diagram
  • FIG. 5 is an explanatory plan view showing the structure of another example of the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention when it is in a dry state.
  • FIG. 6 (A) is an explanatory view showing a cross-sectional shape of still another example of the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention in a dry state
  • FIG. 6 (B) is a water-wetting of the woven or knitted fabric. It is explanatory drawing which shows the cross-sectional shape when it is in a state
  • FIG. 7 is an explanatory plan view showing the structure of still another example of the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention when it is in a dry state.
  • the fiber B consisting of at least one kind selected from the crimped fiber A of the present invention in which the crimp rate is reduced by water wetting and the non-crimped fiber and the crimped fiber in which the crimp rate is not substantially changed by water wetting. Is included.
  • a crimped fiber-containing woven or knitted fabric of the present invention is wetted with water (for example, when wetted by sweat or rain)
  • only the crimped fiber A is The crimping rate of the crimped fiber A is decreased when the apparent length of the crimped fiber A is increased and the surface of the woven or knitted fabric wetted with water is formed uneven.
  • the unevenness change rate is 5% or more, preferably 10 to 100%.
  • the unevenness change rate is less than 5%, the unevenness in the woven or knitted fabric is insufficient when wet, and skin discomfort when wearing it cannot be sufficiently reduced.
  • Unevenness change rate (%) ((TW-TD) / TD) X 100
  • the thickness at the time of drying is the thickness after leaving the woven or knitted fabric at a temperature of 20 and a humidity of 65% RH for 24 hours.
  • the thickness at the time of wetness is the thickness of the woven or knitted fabric. This is the maximum thickness of the dripping point after 1 minute of dripping water for 1 minute.
  • the fiber is a composite fiber in which two types of resin components that differ from each other in heat shrinkage, for example, a polyester resin component and a polyamide resin component, are joined in a side-by-side shape, and develops latent crimping performance.
  • a crimped fiber having a crimped structure is preferred.
  • the polyester resin component in the side-by-side composite fiber has an alkanoic or alkaline earth metal salt or phosphonium salt of sulfonic acid in order to increase adhesion to the polyamide component.
  • a modified polyester such as polyethylene terephthalate, polypropylene terephthalate, and polybutylene terephthalate, which are copolymerized with a compound having one or more functional groups having ester-forming ability.
  • a modified polyethylene terephthalate obtained by copolymerizing the above compound is particularly preferable because it is versatile and has a low polymer cost.
  • the copolymer component include 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid and its ester derivatives, 5-phosphonium myophthalic acid and its ester derivatives, and P-hydroxybenzene sodium sulfonate. Of these compounds, 5-sodiumsulfoisophthalic acid is preferred.
  • the copolymerization amount of the copolymer component is preferably in the range of 2.0 to 4.5 mol% of the molar amount of the dicarboxylic acid component of the polyester resin component. If the copolymerization amount is less than 2.0 mol%, excellent crimping performance can be obtained, but peeling may occur at the bonding interface between the polyamide component and the polyester component. On the contrary, if the copolymerization amount is larger than 4.5 mol%, the crystallization of the polyester component becomes difficult to proceed during the stretching heat treatment, so the stretching heat treatment temperature needs to be higher than the normal level. As a result, thread breakage may occur frequently.
  • the polyamide resin component of the side-by-side type composite fiber is not particularly limited as long as it has an amide bond in the main chain.
  • Nylon No. 6 and Ny-Non-66 are preferred in terms of versatility, polymer cost, and yarn production stability.
  • the polyester resin component and the polyamide resin component include known additives such as pigments, pigments, matting agents, antifouling agents, fluorescent whitening agents, flame retardants, stabilizers, antistatic agents, and light resistance agents. UV absorbers and the like may be included.
  • FIGS. 1 to 3 exemplify the cross-sectional shape of the side-by-side composite fiber used in the present invention.
  • the composite fiber 1 shown in FIG. 1 has a circular cross-sectional shape, and a polyester resin component 2 and a polyamide resin component 3 are bonded to a side by side.
  • the composite fiber shown in FIG. 2 has an elliptical cross-sectional shape, and the polyester resin component 2 and the polyamide resin component 3 are bonded side-by-side.
  • a polyamide resin component 3 having a circular cross-sectional shape is composited in a polyester resin component 2 in an arrangement close to a core-sheath type. . However, a portion of the polyamide resin component 3 is exposed on the fiber peripheral surface.
  • the cross-sectional shape of the side-by-side one-sided composite fiber may be a polygon such as a triangle or a quadrangle, a flat shape, a star shape, etc. in addition to the circle and the ellipse, and has a hollow portion. It may be. Among these, it is preferable to have a circular cross-sectional shape shown in FIG. 1.
  • the mass ratio of the polyester resin component to the polyamide resin component in the side-by-side type composite fiber used in the present invention is 30. : 70-70: 30 is preferable, and 40: 60-60: 40 is more preferable.
  • the single fiber fineness of the crimped fiber A used in the present invention is 1 to 10d x It is preferably 2 to 5 dtex.
  • the number of single fibers is preferably 10 to 200, more preferably 20 to 100.
  • a composite fiber in which two types of resin components different from each other in heat shrinkability are joined in a side-by-side shape can take any cross-sectional shape and composite form.
  • FIGS. 1 to 3 exemplify enlarged cross-sectional views of a side visor type composite fiber that can be used in the present invention.
  • a composite fiber having a cross section shown in FIGS. 1 and 2 is used, but it may be close to an eccentric core-sheath type as shown in FIG. Further, it may be a triangle, a quadrangle, or a hollow part in its cross section.
  • the composite ratio of the two components can be arbitrarily selected, but usually the mass ratio of the polyester resin component 1 and the polyamide resin component 2 is preferably 30:70 to 70:30, more preferably 40: 60-60: 40.
  • the single yarn fineness and the number of single yarns (number of filaments) of the crimped fiber A are not particularly limited, but the single yarn fineness l to 10 dtex (more preferably 2 to 5 dtex), the number of single yarns 10 to It is preferably within the range of 200 (more preferably 20 to 100).
  • Such composite fibers in which different types of polymers are joined in a side-by-side type usually have latent crimping performance, and as will be described later, the latent crimping performance is manifested by heat treatment such as dyeing. To do.
  • the polyamide component is located inside the crimp and the polyester component is located outside the crimp.
  • a composite fiber having such a crimped structure can be easily obtained by the production method described later. Crimp When fiber A has such a crimped structure, the inner polyamide component swells and stretches when wet, and the outer polyester component hardly undergoes a length change. descend. For this reason, the apparent length of the crimped fiber A becomes longer. On the other hand, during drying, the inner polyamide component shrinks, and the outer polyester component hardly changes in length, so the crimp rate increases. For this reason, the apparent length of the crimped fiber A is shortened.
  • the crimped fiber A is preferably a non-twisted yarn or a sweet twisted yarn subjected to twisting of 300 T Zm or less so that the crimping rate is easily lowered when it is wet.
  • non-twisted yarn is preferable. If a strong twist is applied, as in the case of a strong twisted yarn, the crimp rate may be difficult to decrease when wet. Even if in-lace air processing and / or normal false twist crimping are performed so that the number of entanglements is about 20 to 60 m, there is no problem.
  • the crimping rate does not change substantially when wet means that the difference between the crimping rate DC during drying and the crimping rate HC when wet (DC—HC) is less than 0.5%.
  • the crimp compression ratio difference (DC-HC) is more preferably 0 to 0.4%, and further preferably 0 to 0.3%.
  • Fiber B includes: Polyethylene terephthalate, Polymethylene terephthalate, Polybutylene terephthalate and other polyesters, Nylon 6, Polyamides such as Nylon 66, Polyolefins such as polyethylene and Polypropylene Suitable for clothing such as rubber, acrylic, para-type or meta-type polyamide, and modified synthetic fibers, natural fibers, regenerated fibers, semi-synthetic fibers, polyurethane elastic yarns, polyether ester elastic yarns, etc. Any fiber can be selected.
  • the single fiber fineness of the fiber B is preferably 0.1 to 5 dt ex, more preferably 0.5 to 2 dt ex, and
  • the number of single fibers constituting the fiber B yarn or filament bundle is preferably 20 to 200, more preferably 30 to 100.
  • fiber B-containing yarns or filament bundles are subjected to interlaced air processing and / or normal false twist crimping, and the number of constituent single fibers of 20 to 60 Zm is entangled with each other. May be.
  • the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention has the above-mentioned crimped fiber A in which the crimping rate decreases when wetted with water, and non-crimped fibers and / or crimps that do not substantially change the crimped rate when wetted with water.
  • fiber B made of fiber.
  • the woven or knitted structure and the number of layers are not particularly limited.
  • woven structures such as plain weave, twill, satin, and knitted structures such as tenshi, smooth, milling, kanoko, knitting yarn, denbi, half, etc. are preferably exemplified, but not limited thereto.
  • the number of layers may be a single layer or a multilayer of two or more layers.
  • the reason why unevenness appears in the woven or knitted fabric by water wetting is that the woven or knitted fabric has a portion that undergoes dimensional change (expands) due to water wetting and a portion that does not change in dimension even when wetted with water or has a small dimensional change. While the former changes in dimensions due to water wetting, the latter does not change in dimension or the amount of dimensional change is small. In order to effectively express unevenness by water wetting, it is important to appropriately arrange the crimped fiber A and the fiber B.
  • the embodiment (1) has one or more parts (Y part) composed only of the crimped fibers A, and one or more parts (Z part) composed only of the fibers B,
  • the Z portion is continuously formed in the longitudinal direction and / or the weft direction, or the wale direction and / or the course direction.
  • the Y part has a larger dimensional change when wet than the Z part, and the Z part is continuously connected in the warp direction and the no or weft direction or the wale direction and the Z or course direction in the woven or knitted fabric. Therefore, the dimensional change of the entire woven or knitted fabric can be suppressed, and as a result, the Y part becomes a convex part and unevenness appears.
  • the woven or knitted fabric 7 is composed of a Y portion 8 having a large dimensional change due to water wetting, and a Z portion 9 having little or no dimensional change due to water wetting. , Y portion 8 and Z portion 9 form a flat surface, but when it is wetted with water, each of Y portion 8 is woven as shown in FIG. 6 (B).
  • the knitted fabric 7 extends to one side of the knitted fabric 7 to form a convex portion.
  • the Z portion is not particularly limited to a pattern that is continuously connected in the longitudinal direction and / or the weft direction or the wale direction and the no or course direction, but for example, a border pattern, a stripe pattern, a lattice pattern, etc.
  • the Z part: Y part area ratio is preferably 10: 90-90: 10, more preferably 20: 80-80: 20.
  • the Y portions 8 are separated from each other by a Z portion 9.
  • the area of the Y portion 81 is not particularly limited, but is preferably 0.01 to 4.
  • O cm 2 more preferably within the range of 0.1 to 1.0 cm 2 . It is. In this way, it is preferable to prevent stickiness between clothes and skin when sweating.
  • the line width of the Z portion 11 is preferably in the range of 0.5 to 100 mm.
  • the Z portion is continuously formed in the longitudinal direction and / or the weft direction or the wale direction and / or the course direction.
  • the X portion has a larger dimensional change when wet than the Z portion, and the Z portion is continuously in the warp direction and / or the weft direction or the wale direction and / or the course direction in the woven or knitted fabric.
  • the dimensional change of the entire woven or knitted fabric can be suppressed, and as a result, the X portion becomes convex and irregularities appear.
  • the pattern indicating the continuous state of the Z portion and the area ratio between them may be the same as those in the embodiment (1).
  • the X part is continuously connected in the warp direction and / or the weft direction or the wale direction and / or the course direction.
  • the dimensional change is greater in the Y part than in the X part, and the X part is continuously connected in the warp direction and / or the weft direction or the wale direction and / or the course direction in the woven or knitted fabric.
  • the dimensional change of the entire woven or knitted fabric can be suppressed, and as a result, the Y part becomes a convex part and unevenness appears.
  • the continuous pattern of the X portion and the area ratio of both may be the same as those in the embodiment (1).
  • the woven or knitted fabric is a portion composed of the crimped fiber A and the fiber B (portion X) and a portion composed only of the crimped fiber A. (Y portion) and a portion (Z portion) composed only of the fiber B, and the Z portion is continuously connected in the longitudinal direction and / or the weft direction or the wale direction and / or the course direction. .
  • the Z part has the least amount of dimensional change when wet with water compared to other parts (X part or Y part), and the Z part is continuously in the warp and / or weft direction in the woven or knitted fabric.
  • the dimensional change of the entire woven or knitted fabric is suppressed, and as a result, the other part (X part or Y part) becomes a convex part and unevenness appears.
  • the continuous pattern of the Z portion and the area ratio of the area of the Z portion and the total area of the other portions may be the same as those in the embodiment (1).
  • the woven or knitted fabric is a multilayer woven or knitted fabric comprising two or more layers, and is composed of at least one layer (X layer) composed of the crimped fibers A and the fibers B. ) And at least one layer (Z layer) composed only of the fiber B, and the former layer and the latter layer are partially joined.
  • the dimensional change due to wetting is greater in the X layer than in the Z layer, and the portion of the X layer that is not connected to the Z layer forms a convex portion and develops irregularities.
  • the woven or knitted fabric 4 is a multilayer body composed of an X layer 6 and a Z layer 5 and a connection layer 5 a that partially connects them.
  • this multi-layer knitted fabric is wetted with water, as shown in Fig. 4 (B), layer X 6 expands in the middle of the connection portion to form a convex portion 6 a, but the portion 6 b connected by the connection layer 5 a of the X layer 6 cannot expand.
  • irregularities are formed on one side of the woven or knitted fabric.
  • the 6 layers X of the woven or knitted fabric are connected to the Z layer (not shown) by the connecting layer (not shown in Fig. 5) by the connecting layer 6b.
  • the portion 6a is extended by water wetting and projecting outward to form a plurality of quadrangular convex portions distributed apart from each other, and the concave and convex portions are formed on one side of the multi-layer woven or knitted fabric Form.
  • the unconnected portions may be formed in a lattice shape, and the connected portions may form a plurality of regions spaced from each other.
  • the woven or knitted fabric is a multilayer woven or knitted fabric composed of two or more layers, and is composed of at least one layer composed of the crimped fibers A and the fibers B ( X layer) and at least one layer (Y layer) composed only of the crimped fiber A, and the X layer and the Y layer are partially joined.
  • Y has a larger dimensional change due to wetting than the X layer, and the portion of the Y layer that is not connected to the X layer forms a convex portion, resulting in unevenness.
  • the woven or knitted fabric is a multilayer woven or knitted fabric composed of two or more layers, and is composed of at least one layer (Y layer) composed only of HU self-crimped fibers A. It has at least one layer composed of HIJ fiber B only (Z layer), and ⁇ and Z layer are partially connected.
  • Y layer is more wet than Z layer. Large dimensional change ⁇ Y part of the Y layer that is not connected to ⁇ forms a bulge, resulting in ruggedness.
  • the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention can be easily obtained by the following production method. wear.
  • the method of the present invention is a method for producing a crimped fiber-containing woven or knitted fabric in which unevenness is manifested by water wetting, when the crimp is developed by heat treatment, and when the crimp is wetted by water.
  • a crimped fiber A-forming fiber having a property of reducing the crimp rate, a fiber that does not develop crimp by the heat treatment, and a crimp that develops crimp by the heat treatment, but the crimp is wet with water
  • a step of forming a woven or knitted fabric including the crimped fiber A and the fiber B is a method for producing a crimped fiber-containing woven or knitted fabric in which unevenness is manifested by water wetting, when the crimp is developed
  • the crimped fiber A-forming fibers are different in water absorption and self-extension properties, and are joined in a side-by-side type, and a polyamide resin.
  • the polyester resin component in the uncrimped composite fiber includes a polyester resin having an intrinsic viscosity of 0.30 to 0.43, and the polyamide It is preferable that the resin component contains a polyamide resin having an intrinsic viscosity of 1.0 to 1.4.
  • a polyester having an intrinsic viscosity of 0.30 to 0.43 (measured at 35 using ortho-phenol as a solvent) and an intrinsic viscosity of 1.0 to 1.4 (m Melt-spinning into a side-by-side type using a polyamide with a solvent as a solvent (measured at 30 ° C).
  • the intrinsic viscosity of the polyester component is 0.43 or less. If the intrinsic viscosity of the polyester component is greater than 0.43, the viscosity of the polyester component increases. Since it becomes close to a single fiber, a woven or knitted fabric that can achieve the object of the present invention may not be obtained. Conversely, if the intrinsic viscosity of the polyester component is less than 0.30 The melt viscosity becomes too small, and the yarn-making property is lowered, and the generation of fluff is increased, which may reduce the quality and productivity.
  • the spinneret used for melt spinning the high-viscosity side and the low-viscosity discharge holes are separated as shown in Fig. 1 of JP-A-2000-144518. It is preferable to use a spinneret with a reduced discharge linear velocity (with a larger discharge cross-sectional area). Then, it is preferable to allow the molten polyester to pass through the high-viscosity side discharge holes and to pass through the molten polyamide through the low-viscosity side discharge holes to cool and solidify them while joining them.
  • the weight ratio of the polyester component to the polyamide component is preferably 30:70 to 70:30, more preferably 40:60 to 60:40, as described above.
  • the melt composite spinning after the melt composite spinning, another winding method in which the film is once wound and then stretched may be employed, or a straight stretching method in which a stretching heat treatment is performed without winding may be employed.
  • normal conditions may be used as the spinning and drawing conditions.
  • the draw ratio of the composite fiber obtained at the end is preferably 10 to 60% (more preferably 20 to 45%), and the tensile strength is preferably about 3.0 to 4.7 cN / dtex. What is necessary is just to select suitably.
  • the difference (DC ⁇ HC) between the dry crimp rate DC and the water wet crimp rate HC is preferably 0.5% or more.
  • the dry crimp rate DC is 2 to 6%. More preferably, the water wet crimp rate HC is more preferably 1 to 3%, and the difference between the dry crimp rate DC and the water wet crimp rate HC (DC—HC) is:! More preferably, it is ⁇ 5%.
  • the dry crimp rate DC and the water wet crimp rate are measured by the following measuring methods.
  • Frame circumference 1. Using a 125m rewinding frame, load: 49Z50mNX 9 X and turn it at a constant speed (0. lgix total denier) and roll it up at a constant speed. In the twisted double ring, the endorsement was put into boiling water with the initial load of 49 2500mNX20x 9 X Totaltex (2 mgX 20 X total denier) for 30 minutes. Then, dry it for 30 minutes in a dryer at 100 ° C, and then put it into the drying at 160 with the initial load applied and treat for 5 minutes. After this dry heat treatment, the initial load is removed and the sample is left in a temperature of 20 ° C and humidity of 65% RH for at least 24 hours.
  • the initial load and ⁇ ⁇ ⁇ X 9 x totartex (0.2gf x20x total denier) , Measure the total length: L0, immediately remove only the heavy load, and measure the total length: L1 after 1 minute of dehumidification.
  • the bag was immersed in water at a temperature of 20 ° C for 2 hours with the initial load applied, taken out and sandwiched between a pair of filter papers (size 30cmX30cm), and 0.
  • GgmNZcm 2 (70mgf / After lightly wiping off the water for 5 seconds with a pressure of cm 2 ), apply initial load and heavy load, measure total length: L 0 ', immediately remove only heavy load, and total length after 1 minute of depletion: Measure L 1 '. From the above measured values, the following formula is used to calculate the crimp ratio DC (%) during drying, HC (%) crimp when wet, and the difference in crimp ratio between dry and wet (DC—HC) (% ) Is calculated. The number of measurements n is 5, and the average value of the measured values is obtained.
  • Crimp rate during drying DC () ((L 0-L 1) / L 0) X 100
  • Crimp rate when wet HC (%) ((L 0 '-L 1') / L 0 ') X 100
  • the dry crimp ratio DC is less than 1.5%
  • the dry crimp ratio DC is larger than 13%, the crimp is too strong, and the crimp does not easily change when wet with water, and there is a possibility that unevenness will not appear.
  • a woven or knitted fabric is knitted simultaneously using the composite fiber and a fiber B having a crimp that does not change substantially when crimped or not crimped, and is then subjected to a dyeing process.
  • the latent crimp of the composite fiber is expressed by heat (referred to as a crimped fiber).
  • the knitted or knitted fabric is knitted
  • the woven or knitted structure is not particularly limited, and the above-described one can be appropriately selected.
  • the dyeing processing temperature is preferably 100 to 140 ° C, more preferably 110 to 135 ° C, and the dyeing time is within the range of 5 to 40 minutes when keeping the kneading temperature. It is preferable that By subjecting the woven or knitted fabric to a dyeing process under such conditions, the composite fiber develops crimps due to a difference in thermal shrinkage between the polyester component and the polyamide component. At that time, by selecting the aforementioned polymer as the polyester component and the polyamide component, a crimp structure in which the polyamide component is located inside the crimp is formed.
  • a woven or knitted fabric that has been dyed is usually subjected to a dry heat final set.
  • the temperature of the drying final set is preferably 120 to 200, more preferably 140 to 180 ° C, and the final set time may be within a range of 1 to 3 minutes. preferable. If it is lower than the temperature of the dry heat final set, stains generated during the dyeing process are likely to remain, and the dimensional stability of the finished product will deteriorate. There is it. On the contrary, if the temperature of the dry heat final set is higher than 200, there is a risk that the crimp of the composite fiber developed during the dyeing process may be reduced, or the fiber may be hardened and the texture of the fabric may be hardened. .
  • the woven or knitted fabric obtained by the method of the present invention when the woven or knitted fabric is wetted by perspiration or rain, the apparent length of the crimped fiber A is extended due to a decrease in the amount of crimp.
  • the fiber B since the fiber B does not stretch even when wet, the overall dimensions of the woven or knitted fabric are fixed.
  • the portion containing the crimped fiber A forms a convex portion, and unevenness is developed. Such unevenness can reduce stickiness when wet.
  • the stickiness force is preferably 980 mN (l OOgr f) or less.
  • the sticky force means that a fabric having a length of 15 cm and a width of 6 cm is placed on a metal roller having a diameter of 8 cm as shown in FIG. 1 of JP-A-9-195172. Attach one end to a 'strain gauge and attach a clip weighing 98mN (l Og rf) to the other end of the fabric. Next, while rotating the metal roller at a surface speed of 7 cm / s ec, 0.5 cm 3 is injected between the metal nozzle and the fabric with a syringe, and the tension applied to the fabric is stressed. Measure with a strain gauge and use the maximum value as the stickiness.
  • the textile product of the present invention includes outer garments, sports garments, and inner garments.
  • Example 1 The textile product of the present invention includes outer garments, sports garments, and inner garments.
  • m_cresol was used as a solvent and measured at a temperature of 30 ° C.
  • the boiling water shrinkage (%) was measured by the method specified in JIS L 1013-1998, 7.15. The average value was obtained from n number 3.
  • Frame circumference 1. Using a 125m rewind frame, load: 49 / 50mNX 9 X total tex (0. lgf x total denier) and roll at a constant speed. Make a twisted dovetail into a double ring shape and place it in boiling water under the initial load of 49 / 2500 ⁇ 20 ⁇ 9 ⁇ ⁇ ⁇ ⁇ Totaltex (2 mgx 20X total denier) for 30 minutes. After the treatment, it was dried in a dryer at 100 for 30 minutes, and then placed in 160 ° C dry heat for 5 minutes with the initial load applied. After the dry heat treatment, remove the initial load and leave it in a temperature 20 ° C, humidity 65% RH environment for 24 hours or more.
  • Crimp rate during drying DC (%) ((L 0-L 1) / L 0) X 100
  • Crimp rate when wet HC (%) ((L 0 '-L 1') / L 0 ' ) X 100 6. Strong power
  • a test piece of a test knitted fabric knitted with a length of 15 cni and a width of 6 cm is placed on a 8 mm diameter metal luff with a polished surface.
  • One end was attached to a stress strain gauge, and a clip weighing 98 DIN (lOgri) was attached to the other end of the test piece.
  • a stress strain gauge was attached to the other end of the test piece.
  • a clip weighing 98 DIN lOgri
  • 0.5 ml of water is gently injected between the metal roller and the fabric with a syringe, and the tension applied to the test piece at this time is stressed.
  • the maximum value was taken as the sticking force.
  • the number of n was 5, and the average value was obtained. The higher the measured value, the higher the stickiness.
  • the yarn After cooling, solidifying and applying oil, the yarn is fed at a speed of lOOOOmZ at a temperature of 60.
  • a preheat roller is used for preheating, and then a heat treatment is performed between the preheating roller and a heating roller heated at a speed of 3050 mZ and at a temperature of 150, and wound to obtain a 84 dtex / 24 iil composite fiber bundle. It was.
  • This composite fiber had a tensile strength of 3.4 cN / dtex and an elongation at break of 40%.
  • the composite fiber bundle was subjected to boiling water treatment to develop crimp, and the crimp rate was measured.
  • the dry crimp rate DC was 3.3%
  • the water wet crimp rate HC was 1.6%
  • the difference between the dry crimp rate DC and the water wet crimp rate HC (DC-HC) was 1.7%.
  • the uncrimped composite fiber bundle (not boiled water treated and not crimped; untwisted yarn) and ordinary polyethylene terephthalate multifilament yarn (fiber B) with a boiling water shrinkage of 8%
  • a circular knitted fabric with the knitting structure shown in Table 1 was knitted using 84dtexZ72fil and a 28-gauge double circular knitting machine.
  • Fig. 4 In this circular knitted fabric, the cross-section in the thickness direction is as shown in Fig. 4.
  • One layer (Z layer) is composed only of fibers B, and the other layer (Y layer) is composed only of crimped fibers A. And Y layer were partly joined by polyester fiber B yarn.
  • the surface of the knitted fabric viewed from the Y layer side is a square section where the Y layer and the Z layer are connected in a lattice shape as shown in Fig. 5.
  • the convex portion 6 b became a convex portion and unevenness was developed.
  • Example 1 Using a 28-gauge tricot knitting machine, fully set the same composite fiber (Fiber A) as used in Example 1 for the back ⁇ , and the middle ⁇ used in Example 1
  • the same polyethylene terephthalate multifilament yarn (Fiber B) is set in 2 in lOout, and the same polyethylene terephthalate multifilament yarn used in Example 1 is used for Freon (registered trademark).
  • (Fiber B) is set at lOout 2 in, knock 10-12, middle 10-12-12-23-45-43-32-21, front (registered trademark) 45-43 — 32— 21— 10— 12— 23— 34 knitting structure, on-machine course 60 kn .
  • this knitted fabric was dyed and finished in the same manner as in Example 1.
  • the dry cross section in the thickness direction is composed of a portion (Y portion) composed only of the crimped fiber A, a crimped fiber A, and a fiber B, as shown in FIG. 6 (A). It consisted of part (X part).
  • the knitted surface is continuously connected to the entire knitted fabric in a diamond pattern, and when wet, the square part (Y part) surrounded by this diamond pattern has a convex part. As a result, irregularities appeared.
  • Example 2 In the same manner as in Example 1, a circular knitted product (including a water absorbing agent) product was produced. However, the same composite fiber as that used in Example 1 was used instead of the polyethylene terephthalate multifilament yarn (fiber B).
  • the obtained knitted fabric was unsatisfactory in practical use because the unevenness change rate during drying and wetting was 2% and the stickiness was 1470 ⁇ (150gf), and the stickiness during wetting was large.
  • unevenness is reversibly developed on the surface of the woven or knitted fabric when wet, and the woven or knitted fabric in which the unevenness is reduced when dried, and the wear, inner wear, sports wear using the woven or knitted fabric, and the like.
  • the stickiness between the skin and clothes when sweating can be reduced.

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Mechanical Engineering (AREA)
  • Yarns And Mechanical Finishing Of Yarns Or Ropes (AREA)
  • Knitting Of Fabric (AREA)
  • Woven Fabrics (AREA)
  • Multicomponent Fibers (AREA)
  • Treatment Of Fiber Materials (AREA)
  • Professional, Industrial, Or Sporting Protective Garments (AREA)
  • Undergarments, Swaddling Clothes, Handkerchiefs Or Underwear Materials (AREA)

Abstract

A woven/knit fabric which becomes rugged upon humidification and loses the ruggedness upon drying. The fabric comprises: crimped fibers (A) whose percentage crimp decreases upon humidification; and fibers (B) comprising non-crimped fibers and/or crimped fibers whose percentage crimp does not substantially change upon humidification. The percentage change in ruggedness of this woven/knit fabric as calculated from the thickness of the dry fabric (TD) and the thickness of the humidified fabric (TW) using the following equation: Percentage change in ruggedness (%) = ((TW-TD)/TD)×100 is 5% or higher.

Description

水湿潤により凹凸が発現する捲縮繊維含有織編物、 並びにその製造 方法及び繊維製品 Crimped fiber-containing woven or knitted fabric in which irregularities appear by water wetting, as well as its production method and textile product
技術分野 Technical field
本発明は、 水湿潤により凹凸が発現する捲縮繊維含有織編物、 並 明  The present invention relates to a crimped fiber-containing woven or knitted fabric that exhibits unevenness when wet with water.
びにその製造方法及び繊維製品に関するものである。 さ らに詳しく 述べるならば、 本発明は、 水湿潤によって、 捲縮率が低下する捲縮 繊維と、 それとは異なる繊維とを含み書、 水湿潤によって、 織編物表 面に凹凸が発現し、 乾燥によって前記凹凸が減少又は消失する特性 を有し、 それによつて、 発汗により織編物製衣服が濡れても衣服が 肌に付着することのない、 又は少ない織編物、 並びにその製造方法 及び繊維製品に関するものである。 The present invention relates to a manufacturing method and a textile product. More specifically, the present invention includes a crimped fiber in which the crimping rate is reduced by water wetting and a fiber different from the crimped fiber, and the surface of the woven or knitted fabric is uneven by water wetting. Woven knitted or knitted fabric that has the property that the unevenness is reduced or disappeared by drying, so that even if the woven or knitted garment gets wet by sweating, the garment does not adhere to the skin, or its production method and textile product It is about.
背景技術 Background art
従来、 合成繊維や天然繊維などからなる織編物からスポーツゥェ ァーゃイ ンナ一ウェアーなどを製造し、 これを着用すると、 肌から の発汗によりムレやべ 卜ツキが発生するという問題があった。  Conventionally, when sportswear inner wear is manufactured from a woven or knitted fabric made of synthetic fiber or natural fiber, and this is worn, there has been a problem that stuffiness or stickiness occurs due to sweating from the skin.
特に発汗初期に発生する蒸気状の汗に対しては、 通常、 衣服を構 成する素材として吸湿性の高い繊維を用いる方法、 及び衣服を構成 する織編物の組織、 密度を粗にして、 通気性を高める方法などが広 く使われている。  In particular, for vaporous sweat generated in the early stages of sweating, a method of using a highly hygroscopic fiber as a material constituting the garment, and a structure and density of the woven or knitted fabric constituting the garment are roughened and the ventilation is performed. There are widely used methods to improve the performance.
一方、 発汗中期〜後期の液状の汗に対しては、 多層構造織編物に おいて外層と内層 (肌側) に密度差を設け、 肌側で吸収した汗を素 早く外側に移行させることの可能な織編物を用いること (例えば、 特許文献 1参照) 及び、 衣服を構成する織編物の肌側表面に凹凸を 設け、 肌と衣服との接触面積を少なく してべ トツキを低減することOn the other hand, for liquid sweat in the middle to late periods of sweating, a multilayer structure woven or knitted fabric creates a difference in density between the outer layer and inner layer (skin side), and quickly transfers the sweat absorbed on the skin side to the outside. Use possible woven or knitted fabric (see, for example, Patent Document 1) To reduce stickiness by reducing the contact area between skin and clothes
(例えば、 特許文献 2、 特許文献 3参照) などが提案されている。 しかしながら、 前者については、 発汗が衣服の飽和吸水量を超える と肌側面にも汗が残り、 その結果、 衣服が肌にベとつく という問題 があった。 また、 後者については、 発汗量が増すと凹凸量が不十分 なため衣服が肌にベとつき、 これを回避するために凹凸量を大きく すると織編物の含気率が増し保温性が高くなり、 かえって発汗を助 長し、 また、 凹凸の凸部が肌とこすれチクチク し不快であり、 また 、 凸部が肌により摩擦されてピリ ングを発生しやすいなどの問題が あった。 (See, for example, Patent Document 2 and Patent Document 3). However, the former had a problem that when the sweating exceeded the saturated water absorption amount of the clothes, the sweat also remained on the side of the skin, resulting in the clothes sticking to the skin. For the latter, as the amount of sweat increases, the amount of unevenness becomes insufficient, causing the clothes to stick to the skin.To avoid this, increasing the amount of unevenness increases the air content of the woven or knitted fabric and increases the heat retention. On the contrary, there was a problem that the sweating was promoted, the uneven convex part rubbed with the skin and it was uncomfortable, and the convex part was rubbed by the skin and easily caused pilling.
このため、 湿潤により織編物表面に凹凸が可逆的に発現すること により、 べ トツキを低減することができる織編物の出現が望まれて いた。  For this reason, there has been a demand for the appearance of a woven or knitted fabric that can reduce tackiness by reversibly expressing irregularities on the surface of the woven or knitted fabric when wet.
〔特許文献 1〕 特開平 9 一 3 16757号公報  [Patent Document 1] Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 9 1 3 16757
〔特許文献 2〕 特開平 10— 13 1000号公報  [Patent Document 2] Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 10-131000
〔特許文献 3〕 特開平 9 一 3243 13号公報 発明の開示  [Patent Document 3] Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 9-324313 Disclosure of Invention
本発明の目的は、 水湿潤により、 織編物面に凹凸が発現し、 乾燥 により、 前記凹凸が減少又は消失する織編物、 並びにそれを製造す る方法及びそれを含み、 発汗したときに、 汗による濡れにより不快 感を生じない繊維製品を提供することにある。  An object of the present invention is to include a woven or knitted fabric in which irregularities appear on the surface of the woven or knitted fabric when wet, and the unevenness is reduced or eliminated by drying, and a method for producing the woven or knitted fabric. It is to provide a textile product that does not cause discomfort due to wetting caused by water.
上記目的は、 本発明の捲縮繊維含有織編物、 並びにその製造方法 及び繊維製品により達成される。  The above object is achieved by the crimped fiber-containing woven or knitted fabric of the present invention, the production method thereof, and the textile product.
本発明の水湿潤により凹凸が発現する捲縮繊維含有織編物は、 水 による湿潤によって捲縮率が低下する捲縮繊維 (A ) を含む糸条、 並びに非捲縮繊維及び水による湿潤により捲縮率が実質的に変化し ない捲縮繊維から選ばれた少なく とも 1種類からなる繊維 Bを含む 糸条を含む織編物であって、 The crimped fiber-containing woven or knitted fabric that exhibits irregularities when wetted with water according to the present invention includes a yarn containing a crimped fiber (A) whose crimping rate decreases when wetted with water, and a non-crimped fiber and wetted with water. The shrinkage has changed substantially A knitted or knitted fabric containing yarns containing at least one type of fiber B selected from non-crimped fibers,
前記織編物を、 温度 20で及び湿度 65 % RHの環境下に 24時間放置し た後の当該織編物の厚さ TD、 並びに、 前記織編物上に、 1 m lの水を 滴下し、 1分間経過した後の当該織編物の水湿潤された部分の最大 厚さ TWから、 下記式により算出される凹凸変化率 :  The woven or knitted fabric was allowed to stand for 24 hours in an environment of a temperature of 20 and a humidity of 65% RH. The thickness TD of the woven or knitted fabric after being left for 24 hours, and 1 ml of water were dropped on the woven or knitted fabric for 1 minute. From the maximum thickness TW of the water-wet part of the woven or knitted fabric after elapse of time, the unevenness change rate calculated by the following formula:
凹凸変化率 (%) = ( ( TW - TD) / TD) X 100 が、 5 %以上であることを特徴とするものである。  Unevenness change rate (%) = ((TW-TD) / TD) X 100 is characterized by being 5% or more.
本発明の水湿潤により凹凸が発現する捲縮繊維含有織編物におい て、 前記捲縮繊維 Aが、 給水 · 自己伸長性において互に異なり、 か つ、 サイ ドーバイ—サイ ド型に接合されているポリエステル繊維樹 脂成分とポリアミ ド樹脂成分とからなり、 かつ、 その潜在捲縮性能 を発現させることによって形成された捲縮を有する捲縮複合繊維か ら選ばれることが好ましい。  In the crimped fiber-containing woven or knitted fabric that exhibits irregularities when wetted with water according to the present invention, the crimped fibers A are different from each other in water supply and self-extension properties, and are joined in a side-by-side shape. It is preferably selected from crimped composite fibers comprising a polyester fiber resin component and a polyamide resin component and having crimps formed by expressing the latent crimp performance.
本発明の水湿潤により凹凸が発現する捲縮繊維含有織編物におい て、 前記ポリエステル繊維樹脂成分が、 酸成分の含有量を基本とし て、 2. 0〜4. 5モル%の 5 —ナ ト リ ウムスルホイソフ夕ル酸が、 2. 0 〜4. 5モル%共重合された変性ポリエチレンテレフ夕レー ト樹脂か らなることが好ましい。  In the crimped fiber-containing woven or knitted fabric that exhibits irregularities when wetted with water according to the present invention, the polyester fiber resin component is based on the content of the acid component. The lithium sulfoisophthalic acid is preferably composed of a modified polyethylene terephthalate resin copolymerized with 2.0 to 4.5 mol%.
本発明の水湿潤により凹凸が発現する捲縮繊維含有織編物におい て、 前記捲縮繊維 Aを含む糸条が、 0〜 300 T Z mの撚り数を有す ることが好ましい。  In the crimped fiber-containing woven or knitted fabric that exhibits unevenness when wetted with water according to the present invention, the yarn containing the crimped fiber A preferably has a twist number of 0 to 300 T Zm.
本発明の水湿潤により凹凸が発現する捲縮繊維含有織編物におい て、 前記繊維 Bが、 ポリエステル樹脂により形成されていることが 好ましい。  In the crimped fiber-containing woven or knitted fabric that exhibits unevenness when wetted with water according to the present invention, the fiber B is preferably formed of a polyester resin.
本発明の水湿潤によって凹凸を発現する捲縮繊維含有織編物にお いて、 前記織編物が、 前記捲縮繊維 Aのみにより構成されている 1 個以上の部分 Yと、 記繊維 ( B ) のみにより構成されている 1個 以上の部分 Ζ とを有し 、 Hij d Z部分が、 前記織編物の経及び緯方向 から選ばれた少なく とも 1方向 、 或はコース及びゥ: c一ル方向から 選ばれた少なく とも 1方向に、 連続して形成されているものであつ てもよい。 In the crimped fiber-containing woven or knitted fabric that exhibits irregularities when wetted with water according to the present invention, the woven or knitted fabric is composed only of the crimped fiber A 1 Having at least one portion Y and at least one portion selected from the warp and weft directions of the knitted or knitted fabric, wherein the Hij d Z portion has at least one portion Y composed of only the fibers (B). Direction, or course and c: may be formed continuously in at least one direction selected from one direction.
本発明の水湿潤によつて凹凸を発現する捲縮繊維含有織編物にお いて、 前記織編物が 、 前記繊維 Bのみで構成されている 1個以上の 部分 Ζ と、 前記繊維 ( A ) と前記繊維 Bとにより構成されている 1 個以上の部分 Xとを有し、 HiJ eel Z部分が、 前記織編物の経及び緯方 向から選ばれた少な < とも 1方向 、 或はコース及びゥェール方向か ら選ばれた少なく と 1方向に 、 連続して形成されているものであ つてもよい。  In the crimped fiber-containing woven or knitted fabric that exhibits irregularities by water wetting of the present invention, the woven or knitted fabric is composed of only one or more partial ridges composed of the fibers B, and the fibers (A). And at least one direction selected from the warp and weft directions of the woven or knitted fabric, or the course and the wale. It may be formed continuously in at least one direction selected from the directions.
本発明の水湿潤によつて凹凸を発現する捲縮繊維含有織編物にお いて、 前記織編物が 前記捲縮繊維 A及び前記繊維 Bとにより構成 される少なく とも 1個の部分 Xと、 前記捲縮繊維 Aのみにより構成 される少なく とも 1個の部分 Yとを有し、 前記 X部分が前記織編物 の経及び緯方向から選ばれた少なく とも 1方向、 或はコース及びゥ エール方向から選ばれた少なく とも 1方向に、 連続して形成されて いるものであつてもよい。  In the crimped fiber-containing woven or knitted fabric that exhibits irregularities by water wetting of the present invention, the woven or knitted fabric is composed of at least one portion X constituted by the crimped fiber A and the fiber B, and And at least one portion Y composed only of the crimped fiber A, and the X portion is selected from at least one direction selected from the warp and weft directions of the woven or knitted fabric, or from the course and wale directions. It may be formed continuously in at least one selected direction.
本発明の水湿潤によって凹凸を発現する捲縮繊維含有織編物にお いて、 前記織編物が 、 刖 pd捲縮繊維 A及び前記繊維 Bとにより構成 されている少なく とも 1個の部分 Xと、 前記捲縮繊維 Aのみで構成 された少なく と ¾ 1個の部分 Yと 、 前記繊維 Bのみにより形成され In the crimped fiber-containing woven or knitted fabric that exhibits unevenness by water wetting of the present invention, the woven or knitted fabric is composed of at least one portion X composed of the crimped pd crimped fiber A and the fiber B, and At least one part Y composed only of the crimped fiber A and only the fiber B is formed.
,
た少なく とも 1個の部分 z とを有し 、 前記 Z部分が、 記織編物の 経及び緯方向か ^選ばれた少なく とも 1方向、 或はコ一ス及びゥェ ール方向から選ばれた少なく とも 1方向に、 連続して形成されてい るものであってもよい。 本発明の水湿潤によって凹凸を発現する捲縮繊維含有織編物にお いて、 前記織編物が、 2層以上の多層織編構造を有し、 前記多層構 造中の少なく とも 1 層が、 前記捲縮繊維 A及び繊維 Bとから構成さ れ、 他の少なく とも 1 層が、 前記繊維 Bのみから構成され、 前記繊 維 A及び B含有層と前記繊維 B含有層とが、 部分的に互に結接され ているものであってもよい。 At least one part z, and the Z part is selected from at least one direction selected from the warp and weft direction of the weaving knitted fabric, or from the course and wale direction. It may be formed continuously in at least one direction. In the crimped fiber-containing woven or knitted fabric that exhibits irregularities by water wetting of the present invention, the woven or knitted fabric has a multilayer woven or knitted structure of two or more layers, and at least one layer in the multilayered structure is the above-mentioned Consists of crimped fibers A and B, at least one other layer is composed of only the fibers B, and the fibers A and B-containing layers and the fiber B-containing layers are partially interchanged. It may be connected to the cable.
本発明の水湿潤により凹凸を発現する捲縮繊維含有織編物におい て、 前記織編物が、 2層以上の多層織編構造を有し、 前記多層構造 中の少なく とも 1 層が、 前記捲縮繊維 A及び繊維 Bにより構成され 、 他の少なく とも 1 層が、 前記捲縮繊維 Aのみから構成され、 前記 繊維 A及び B含有層及び前記捲縮繊維含有層とが、 部分的に、 互に 結接されているものであってもよい。  In the crimped fiber-containing woven or knitted fabric that exhibits unevenness when wetted with water according to the present invention, the woven or knitted fabric has a multilayer woven or knitted structure of two or more layers, and at least one layer in the multilayered structure is the crimped Consists of fiber A and fiber B, and at least one other layer is composed only of the crimped fiber A, and the fiber A and B-containing layer and the crimped fiber-containing layer are partially mutually It may be connected.
本発明の水湿潤により凹凸を発現する捲縮繊維含有織編物におい て、 前記織編物が、 2層以上の多層織編構造を有し、 前記多層構造 中の少なく とも 1 層が、 前記捲縮繊維 Aのみから構成され、 他の少 なく とも 1 層が、 前記捲縮繊維 Bのみから構成され、 前記捲縮繊維 含有層と前記繊維 B含有層とが、 部分的に、 互に結接されているも のであってもよい。  In the crimped fiber-containing woven or knitted fabric that exhibits unevenness when wetted with water according to the present invention, the woven or knitted fabric has a multilayer woven or knitted structure of two or more layers, and at least one layer in the multilayered structure is the crimped It is composed only of the fiber A, and at least one other layer is composed only of the crimped fiber B, and the crimped fiber-containing layer and the fiber B-containing layer are partially connected to each other. It may be.
本発明の捲縮繊維含有織編物の製造方法は、 前記本発明の水湿潤 により凹凸が発現する捲縮繊維含有織編物を製造する方法であって 、 熱処理を施すことによって捲縮を発現し、 かっ この捲縮が、 水に より湿潤されたときに、 その捲縮率を低下する特性を有する、 捲縮 繊維 Aを形成するための繊維と、 前記熱処理によって捲縮を発現し ない繊維及び、 前記熱処理によって捲縮を発現するが、 その捲縮は 、 水による湿潤によ りその捲縮率を実質上低下しない繊維から選ば れた少なく とも 1種からなる、 繊維 Bを形成をするための繊維とか ら前駆織編物を製造する工程と、 この前駆織編物に熱処理を施して 、 前記捲縮繊維 A及び繊維 Bを含む織編物を形成する工程とを含む ことを特徴とするものである。 The method for producing a crimped fiber-containing woven or knitted fabric of the present invention is a method for producing a crimped fiber-containing woven or knitted fabric that exhibits unevenness by water-wetting according to the present invention, wherein the crimped fiber is expressed by heat treatment, When the crimp is wetted with water, the crimp has a property of reducing the crimp rate, a fiber for forming the crimped fiber A, a fiber that does not exhibit crimp by the heat treatment, and The crimp is formed by the heat treatment, but the crimp is formed of at least one fiber selected from fibers that do not substantially reduce the crimp rate due to wetting with water. A process for producing a precursor knitted fabric from fibers and a heat treatment applied to the precursor knitted fabric And a step of forming a woven or knitted fabric containing the crimped fiber A and the fiber B.
本発明の捲縮繊維含有織編物の製造方法において、 前記捲縮繊維 A形成用繊維が、 吸水 · 自己伸長性において、 互に異なり、 かつサ イ ド—バイ 一サイ ド型に接合されたポリエステル樹脂成分と、 ポリ アミ ド樹脂成分とからなる未捲縮複合繊維から選ばれることが好ま しい。  In the method for producing a crimped fiber-containing woven or knitted fabric of the present invention, the crimped fibers A forming fibers are different from each other in water absorption and self-extension properties, and are joined in a side-by-one-side type. It is preferable to select from uncrimped composite fibers composed of a resin component and a polyamide resin component.
本発明の捲縮繊維含有織編物の製造方法において、 前記未捲縮複 合繊維中のポリエステル樹脂成分が、 0. 30〜0. 43の固有粘度を有す るポリエステル樹脂を含み、 前記ポリ アミ ド樹脂成分が、 1. 0〜 1. 4 の固有粘度を有するポリアミ ド樹脂を含むことが好ましい。  In the method for producing a crimped fiber-containing woven or knitted fabric of the present invention, the polyester resin component in the uncrimped composite fiber includes a polyester resin having an intrinsic viscosity of 0.30 to 0.43, and It is preferable that the resin component contains a polyamide resin having an intrinsic viscosity of 1.0 to 1.4.
本発明の捲縮繊維含有織編物の製造方法において、 前記未捲縮複 合繊維が、 沸騰水中において捲縮発現処理を施された後、  In the method for producing a crimped fiber-containing woven or knitted fabric of the present invention, after the uncrimped composite fiber is subjected to a crimp expression treatment in boiling water,
( 1 ) 温度 20°C、 湿度 65 % RHの環境下に 24時間放置した後に 1. 5〜 1 3 %の範囲内にある乾燥捲縮率 DCを有し、  (1) After having been left in an environment of temperature 20 ° C and humidity 65% RH for 24 hours, it has a dry crimp rate DC in the range of 1.5 to 13%,
( 2 ) 温度 20 :の水中に 2時間浸潰した直後に、 0. 5〜7. 0 %の範囲 内にある水湿潤捲縮率 HCを有し、 かつ  (2) Immediately after being immersed in water at a temperature of 20: for 2 hours, it has a water wet crimp rate HC in the range of 0.5 to 7.0%, and
( 3 ) 前記乾燥捲縮率 DCと水湿潤捲縮率 HCとの差 (DC— HC) 力 0. 5 %以上であることが好ましい。  (3) The difference between the dry crimp rate DC and the water wet crimp rate HC (DC-HC) force is preferably 0.5% or more.
本発明の繊維製品は、 前記本発明の捲縮繊維含有織編物を含むも のである。  The textile product of the present invention includes the crimped fiber-containing woven or knitted fabric of the present invention.
本発明の繊維製品は、 アウター用衣料、 スポーツ用衣料及びイ ン ナー用衣料から ^ばれることが好ましい。  The textile product of the present invention is preferably applied from outer clothing, sports clothing, and inner clothing.
本発明により、 水湿潤により捲縮率が低下する捲縮繊維 Aと、 水 湿潤により捲縮率に実質上変化を生じない繊維 Bとから、 水湿潤に より表面に凹凸を発現し、 乾燥により前記凹凸が減少又は消失する 捲縮繊維含有織編物、 その製造方法及びそれを含む繊維製品を提供 することができる。 図面の簡単な説明 According to the present invention, the crimped fiber A whose crimping rate is reduced by water wetting and the fiber B which does not substantially change the crimping rate by water wetting, the surface is uneven by water wetting and is dried by drying. Providing a crimped fiber-containing woven or knitted fabric in which the unevenness is reduced or eliminated, a manufacturing method thereof, and a fiber product including the same can do. Brief Description of Drawings
図 1 は、 本発明の織編物に用いられる捲縮複合繊維の一例の断面 形状を示す説明図であり、  FIG. 1 is an explanatory view showing a cross-sectional shape of an example of a crimped conjugate fiber used in the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention.
図 2 は、 本発明の織編物に用いられる捲縮複合繊維の他の例の断 面形状を示す説明図であり、  FIG. 2 is an explanatory view showing a cross-sectional shape of another example of the crimped conjugate fiber used in the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention.
図 3 は、 本発明の織編物に用いられる捲縮複合繊維の更に他の例 の断面形状を示す説明図であり、  FIG. 3 is an explanatory view showing a cross-sectional shape of still another example of the crimped conjugate fiber used in the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention.
図 4 において、 図 4 ( A ) は、 本発明の織編物の一例の乾燥状態 における断面形状を示す説明図であり、 図 4 ( B ) は、 前記織編物 の水湿潤状態における断面形状を示す説明図であり、  In FIG. 4, FIG. 4 (A) is an explanatory view showing the cross-sectional shape in the dry state of an example of the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention, and FIG. 4 (B) shows the cross-sectional shape in the water-wet state of the woven or knitted fabric. It is an explanatory diagram,
図 5 は、 本発明の織編物の他の一例の、 乾燥状態にあるときの構 成を示す平面説明図であり、  FIG. 5 is an explanatory plan view showing the structure of another example of the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention when it is in a dry state.
図 6 において、 図 6 ( A ) は、 本発明の織編物の更に他の一例の 乾燥状態にあるときの断面形状を示す説明図であり、 図 6 ( B ) は 、 前記織編物の水湿潤状態にあるときの断面形状を示す説明図であ り、  In FIG. 6, FIG. 6 (A) is an explanatory view showing a cross-sectional shape of still another example of the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention in a dry state, and FIG. 6 (B) is a water-wetting of the woven or knitted fabric. It is explanatory drawing which shows the cross-sectional shape when it is in a state,
図 7 は、 本発明の織編物の更に他の例の、 乾燥状態にあるときの 構成を示す平面説明図である。 発明を実施するための最良の形態  FIG. 7 is an explanatory plan view showing the structure of still another example of the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention when it is in a dry state. BEST MODE FOR CARRYING OUT THE INVENTION
本発明の水湿潤により捲縮率が低下する捲縮繊維 Aと、 非捲縮繊 維及び水湿潤により捲縮率が実質上変化しない捲縮繊維から選ばれ た少なく とも 1種からなる繊維 Bとを含むものである。 このような 本発明の捲縮繊維含有織編物は、 水により湿潤されたとき (例えば 、 発汗又は降雨によ り濡れたとき) 、 前記捲縮繊維 Aのみが、 その 捲縮率を低下させ、 それによつて、 捲縮繊維 Aの見掛け長さが増大 し、 水湿潤した織編物表面に凹凸を形成し、 それが乾燥したとき、 前記捲縮繊維 Aの捲縮率は増大し、 又は旧に移し、 その見掛け長さ が、 減少し又は旧に移し、 それによつて、 前記凹凸は減少し、 又は 消失する。 すなわち、 本発明の織編物において、 水湿潤による凹凸 の発現と、 乾燥による凹凸の減少又は消失とが、 可逆的に行われる 本発明の織編物の乾燥時における厚さ (TD) 及び水湿潤時におけ る厚さ (TW) から下記式により凹凸変化率を算出したとき、 この凹 凸変化率が 5 %以上であり好ましく は 10〜 100 %である。 このよう な凹凸変化率が 5 %未満であると、 湿潤時に織編物における凹凸の 発現が不十分であって、 それを着用したときの肌の不快感を十分に 低減することができない。 The fiber B consisting of at least one kind selected from the crimped fiber A of the present invention in which the crimp rate is reduced by water wetting and the non-crimped fiber and the crimped fiber in which the crimp rate is not substantially changed by water wetting. Is included. When such a crimped fiber-containing woven or knitted fabric of the present invention is wetted with water (for example, when wetted by sweat or rain), only the crimped fiber A is The crimping rate of the crimped fiber A is decreased when the apparent length of the crimped fiber A is increased and the surface of the woven or knitted fabric wetted with water is formed uneven. Increases or shifts to the old, and its apparent length decreases or shifts to the old, whereby the irregularities decrease or disappear. That is, in the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention, the appearance of unevenness due to water wetting and the reduction or disappearance of unevenness due to drying are performed reversibly. The thickness (TD) of the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention when dried and when wetted with water When the unevenness change rate is calculated from the thickness (TW) by the following formula, the unevenness change rate is 5% or more, preferably 10 to 100%. When the unevenness change rate is less than 5%, the unevenness in the woven or knitted fabric is insufficient when wet, and skin discomfort when wearing it cannot be sufficiently reduced.
凹凸変化率 (%) = ( ( TW - TD) / TD) X 100 Unevenness change rate (%) = ((TW-TD) / TD) X 100
ただし、 乾燥時における厚さとは、 織編物を温度 20で、 湿度 65 % RH環境下に 24時間放置した後の状態における厚さであり、 一方、 湿 潤時における厚さとは、 織編物にスポイ トで水を 1 m l滴下し 1分経 過後の、 当該滴下個所の最大厚さであり、 これらの厚さは、 例えば 超高精密レーザー変位計 (キーエンス社製、 モデル LC— 2400) を用 いて測定することができる。  However, the thickness at the time of drying is the thickness after leaving the woven or knitted fabric at a temperature of 20 and a humidity of 65% RH for 24 hours. On the other hand, the thickness at the time of wetness is the thickness of the woven or knitted fabric. This is the maximum thickness of the dripping point after 1 minute of dripping water for 1 minute. These thicknesses are measured using, for example, an ultra-high precision laser displacement meter (Model LC-2400, manufactured by Keyence Corporation). Can be measured.
前記の捲縮繊維 Aにおいて、 乾燥時における捲縮率 DCと湿潤時に おける捲縮率 HCとの差 (DC— HC) が 0. 5 %以上であることが肝要で あり、 このような捲縮繊維としては、 熱収縮性において互に異なる 2種の樹脂成分、 例えばポリエステル樹脂成分とポリアミ ド樹脂成 分とがサイ ドバイサイ ド型に接合された複合繊維であって、 潜在捲 縮性能が発現してなる捲縮構造を有する捲縮繊維であることが好ま しい。 前記サイ ドーバイ —サイ ド型複合繊維におけるポリエステル樹脂 成分と しては、 ポリアミ ド成分との接着性を高くするために、 スル ホン酸のアルカ リ又はアルカ リ土類金属塩又はホスホニゥム塩を有 し、 かつエステル形成能を有する 1個以上の官能基をもつ化合物が 共重合された、 ポリエチレンテレフ夕レー ト、 ポリ プロピレンテレ フタ レー ト、 ポリ ブチレンテレフ夕レー ト等の変性ポリエステルを 含むことが好ましい。 なかでも、 汎用性で高くポリマーコス トが低 いという点で、 前記化合物が共重合された、 変性ポリエチレンテレ フタレー トが特に好ましい。 この共重合成分としては、 5 —ナ ト リ ゥムスルホイソフタル酸及びそのエステル誘導体、 5 —ホスホニゥ ムィ ソフタル酸及びそのエステル誘導体、 P —ヒ ドロキシベンゼン スルホン酸ナ トリ ウムなどがあげられる。 上記化合物のなかでも、 5 —ナ ト リウムスルホイソフ夕ル酸が好ましい。 上記共重合成分の 共重合量としては、 ポリエステル樹脂成分のジカルボン酸成分のモ ル量の 2. 0〜 4. 5モル%の範囲内にあることが好ま しい。 この共重合 量が 2. 0モル%より も小さいと、 優れた捲縮性能が得られるけれど も、 ポリアミ ド成分とポリエステル成分との接合界面において剥離 が生じるおそれがある。 逆に、 この共重合量が 4. 5モル%より も大 きいと、 延伸熱処理の際、 ポリエステル成分の結晶化が進みにく く なるため、 延伸熱処理温度を通常のレベルより も高くする必要があ り、 その結果、 糸切れが多発するおそれがある。 In the above-mentioned crimped fiber A, it is important that the difference (DC—HC) between the crimping rate DC during drying and the crimping rate HC when wet (DC—HC) is 0.5% or more. The fiber is a composite fiber in which two types of resin components that differ from each other in heat shrinkage, for example, a polyester resin component and a polyamide resin component, are joined in a side-by-side shape, and develops latent crimping performance. A crimped fiber having a crimped structure is preferred. The polyester resin component in the side-by-side composite fiber has an alkanoic or alkaline earth metal salt or phosphonium salt of sulfonic acid in order to increase adhesion to the polyamide component. And a modified polyester such as polyethylene terephthalate, polypropylene terephthalate, and polybutylene terephthalate, which are copolymerized with a compound having one or more functional groups having ester-forming ability. . Among them, a modified polyethylene terephthalate obtained by copolymerizing the above compound is particularly preferable because it is versatile and has a low polymer cost. Examples of the copolymer component include 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid and its ester derivatives, 5-phosphonium myophthalic acid and its ester derivatives, and P-hydroxybenzene sodium sulfonate. Of these compounds, 5-sodiumsulfoisophthalic acid is preferred. The copolymerization amount of the copolymer component is preferably in the range of 2.0 to 4.5 mol% of the molar amount of the dicarboxylic acid component of the polyester resin component. If the copolymerization amount is less than 2.0 mol%, excellent crimping performance can be obtained, but peeling may occur at the bonding interface between the polyamide component and the polyester component. On the contrary, if the copolymerization amount is larger than 4.5 mol%, the crystallization of the polyester component becomes difficult to proceed during the stretching heat treatment, so the stretching heat treatment temperature needs to be higher than the normal level. As a result, thread breakage may occur frequently.
また, サイ ド—バイ—サイ ド型複合繊維のポリ アミ ド樹脂成分は 、 主鎖中にアミ ド結合を有するものである限り、 特に限定されるも のではなく、 例えば、 ナイ ロン— 4、 ナイ ロン一 6、 ナイ ロン一 66 、 ナイ ロン一 46、 ナイ ロン— 12などがあげられる。 なかでも、 汎用 性、 ポリマーコス ト、 製糸安定性の点で、 ナイ ロン一 6及びナイ 口 ン— 66が好適である。 なお、 前記ポリエステル樹脂成分及びポリアミ ド樹脂成分には、 公知の添加剤、 例えば、 顔料、 顔料、 艷消し剤、 防汚剤、 蛍光増白 剤、 難燃剤、 安定剤、 帯電防止剤、 耐光剤、 紫外線吸収剤等が含ま れていてもよい。 In addition, the polyamide resin component of the side-by-side type composite fiber is not particularly limited as long as it has an amide bond in the main chain. For example, nylon-4, Nylon 1-6, Nylon 166, Nylon 146, Nylon-12 and so on. Of these, Nylon No. 6 and Ny-Non-66 are preferred in terms of versatility, polymer cost, and yarn production stability. The polyester resin component and the polyamide resin component include known additives such as pigments, pigments, matting agents, antifouling agents, fluorescent whitening agents, flame retardants, stabilizers, antistatic agents, and light resistance agents. UV absorbers and the like may be included.
熱収縮性において互に異なる 2種の樹脂成分 (ポリエステル樹脂 成分及びポリ アミ ド樹脂成分) カ^ サイ ドーバイ一サイ ド型に接合 させて構成されている複合繊維は、 任状の断面形状及び複合形態を とることができる。 図 1 〜 3 には本発明に用いられるサイ ドーバイ 一サイ ド型複合繊維の断面形状を例示したものである。 図 1 に示さ れた複合繊維 1 は円形断面形状を有し、 ポリエステル樹脂成分 2 と ポリアミ ド樹脂成分 3 とが、 サイ ドーバイ 一サイ ドに接合されてい る。 図 2 に示された複合繊維は、 楕円形断面形状を有し、 ポリエス テル樹脂成分 2 とポリアミ ド樹脂成分 3 とが、 サイ ド—バイ 一サイ ドに接合されている。 図 3 に示された複合繊維 1 は、 円形断面形状 を有し、 ポリエステル樹脂成分 2の中に、 円形断面形状を有するポ リアミ ド樹脂成分 3が、 芯鞘型に近い配置で複合されている。 但し 、 ポリ アミ ド樹脂成分 3の 1部分が繊維周面に露出している。  Two types of resin components that differ from each other in heat shrinkability (polyester resin component and polyamide resin component) A composite fiber that is bonded to a side-by-side type has an arbitrary cross-sectional shape and composite Can take form. FIGS. 1 to 3 exemplify the cross-sectional shape of the side-by-side composite fiber used in the present invention. The composite fiber 1 shown in FIG. 1 has a circular cross-sectional shape, and a polyester resin component 2 and a polyamide resin component 3 are bonded to a side by side. The composite fiber shown in FIG. 2 has an elliptical cross-sectional shape, and the polyester resin component 2 and the polyamide resin component 3 are bonded side-by-side. The composite fiber 1 shown in FIG. 3 has a circular cross-sectional shape, and a polyamide resin component 3 having a circular cross-sectional shape is composited in a polyester resin component 2 in an arrangement close to a core-sheath type. . However, a portion of the polyamide resin component 3 is exposed on the fiber peripheral surface.
サイ ド一バイ 一サイ ド型複合繊維の断面形状は、 前記円形及び楕 円形の他に、 三角形、 四角形などの多角形、 偏平形、 及び星形など であってもよく、 中空部を有するものであってもよい。 これらの中 でも、 図 1 に示す円形断面形状を有するものであることが好ましい 本発明に用いられるサイ ドーバイ 一サイ ド型複合繊維におけるポ リエステル樹脂成分とポリ アミ ド樹脂成分の質量比は、 30 : 70〜70 : 30であることが好ましく、 40 : 60〜60 : 40であることがよ り好ま しい。  The cross-sectional shape of the side-by-side one-sided composite fiber may be a polygon such as a triangle or a quadrangle, a flat shape, a star shape, etc. in addition to the circle and the ellipse, and has a hollow portion. It may be. Among these, it is preferable to have a circular cross-sectional shape shown in FIG. 1. The mass ratio of the polyester resin component to the polyamide resin component in the side-by-side type composite fiber used in the present invention is 30. : 70-70: 30 is preferable, and 40: 60-60: 40 is more preferable.
本発明に用いられる捲縮繊維 Aの単繊維繊度は 1 〜 10d xである ことが好ましく、 より好ましく は 2 〜 5 d t e xである。 捲縮繊維 Aが 糸条、 又はフィ ラメン ト束として用いられるとき、 その単繊維数は 、 1 0〜 200本であることが好ましく、 20〜 1 00本であることがより好 ましい。 The single fiber fineness of the crimped fiber A used in the present invention is 1 to 10d x It is preferably 2 to 5 dtex. When the crimped fiber A is used as a yarn or filament bundle, the number of single fibers is preferably 10 to 200, more preferably 20 to 100.
熱収縮性において互に異なる 2種の樹脂成分がサイ ドバイサイ ド 型に接合された複合繊維は、 任意の断面形状及び複合形態をとるこ とができる。 図 1 〜 3 は、 本発明で使用することのできるサイ ドバ イザイ ド型複合繊維の拡大横断面図を例示したものである。 通常は 図 1及び図 2 に示されている横断面を有する複合繊維が用いられる が、 図 3 に示されているような偏心芯鞘型に近いものであってもよ い。 さ らには、 三角形や四角形、 その断面内に中空部を有するもの であってもよい。 なかでも、 図 1 のような円形断面形状を有するも のが好ましいが、 図 2 に示されているように楕円形断面形状を有す るものであってもよい。 両成分の複合比は任意に選定することがで きるが、 通常、 ポリエステル樹脂成分 1 とポリアミ ド樹脂成分 2 の 質量比が 30 : 70〜70 : 30であることが好ましくよ り好ましく は 40 : 60〜60 : 40である。  A composite fiber in which two types of resin components different from each other in heat shrinkability are joined in a side-by-side shape can take any cross-sectional shape and composite form. FIGS. 1 to 3 exemplify enlarged cross-sectional views of a side visor type composite fiber that can be used in the present invention. Usually, a composite fiber having a cross section shown in FIGS. 1 and 2 is used, but it may be close to an eccentric core-sheath type as shown in FIG. Further, it may be a triangle, a quadrangle, or a hollow part in its cross section. In particular, it is preferable to have a circular cross-sectional shape as shown in FIG. 1, but it may have an elliptical cross-sectional shape as shown in FIG. The composite ratio of the two components can be arbitrarily selected, but usually the mass ratio of the polyester resin component 1 and the polyamide resin component 2 is preferably 30:70 to 70:30, more preferably 40: 60-60: 40.
前記捲縮繊維 Aの単糸繊度、 単糸数 (フィ ラメン ト数) と しては 特に限定されないが、 単糸繊度 l 〜 1 0 d t e x (より好ましく は 2 〜 5 d t e x) 、 単糸数 1 0〜200本 (より好ましく は 20〜 1 00本) の範囲内で あることが好ましい。  The single yarn fineness and the number of single yarns (number of filaments) of the crimped fiber A are not particularly limited, but the single yarn fineness l to 10 dtex (more preferably 2 to 5 dtex), the number of single yarns 10 to It is preferably within the range of 200 (more preferably 20 to 100).
このように異種ポリマーがサイ ドバイサイ ド型に接合された複合 繊維は、 通常、 潜在捲縮性能を有しており、 後記のように、 染色加 ェ等で熱処理を受けると潜在捲縮性能が発現する。 捲縮構造として は、 ポリ アミ ド成分が捲縮の内側に位置し、 ポリエステル成分が捲 縮の外側に位置していることが好ましい。 かかる捲縮構造を有する 複合繊維は、 後記の製造方法により容易に得ることができる。 捲縮 繊維 Aがこのような捲縮構造を有していると、 湿潤時に、 内側のポ リ アミ ド成分が膨潤、 伸張し、 外側のポリエステル成分はほとんど 長さ変化を起こさないため、 捲縮率が低下する。 このため捲縮繊維 Aの見かけの長さが長くなる。 一方、 乾燥時には、 内側のポリアミ ド成分が収縮し、 外側のポリエステル成分はほとんど長さ変化を起 こさないため、 捲縮率が増大する。 このため捲縮繊維 Aの見かけの 長さが短くなる。 Such composite fibers in which different types of polymers are joined in a side-by-side type usually have latent crimping performance, and as will be described later, the latent crimping performance is manifested by heat treatment such as dyeing. To do. As the crimped structure, it is preferable that the polyamide component is located inside the crimp and the polyester component is located outside the crimp. A composite fiber having such a crimped structure can be easily obtained by the production method described later. Crimp When fiber A has such a crimped structure, the inner polyamide component swells and stretches when wet, and the outer polyester component hardly undergoes a length change. descend. For this reason, the apparent length of the crimped fiber A becomes longer. On the other hand, during drying, the inner polyamide component shrinks, and the outer polyester component hardly changes in length, so the crimp rate increases. For this reason, the apparent length of the crimped fiber A is shortened.
前記の捲縮繊維 Aは、 それが湿潤時に、 容易に捲縮率が低下する ためには、 無撚糸、 又は 300 T Z m以下の撚りが施された甘撚り糸 であることが好ましい。 特に、 無撚糸であることが好ましい。 強撚 糸のように、 強い撚りが付与されていると、 湿潤時に捲縮率が低下 しにく いことがある。 交絡数が 20〜60ケ m程度となるようにイ ン 夕一レース空気加工及び 又は通常の仮撚捲縮加工が施されていて もさ しっかえない。  The crimped fiber A is preferably a non-twisted yarn or a sweet twisted yarn subjected to twisting of 300 T Zm or less so that the crimping rate is easily lowered when it is wet. In particular, non-twisted yarn is preferable. If a strong twist is applied, as in the case of a strong twisted yarn, the crimp rate may be difficult to decrease when wet. Even if in-lace air processing and / or normal false twist crimping are performed so that the number of entanglements is about 20 to 60 m, there is no problem.
非捲縮繊維又は湿潤時に捲縮率が実質的に変化しない捲縮からな る繊維 Bの種類には格別の制限はない。 ここで、 「湿潤時に捲縮率 が実質的に変化しない」 とは、 乾燥時における捲縮率 DCと湿潤時に おける捲縮率 HCとの差 (DC— HC) が 0. 5 %未満のものをいうカ^ 捲 縮率差 (DC— HC) は 0〜0. 4 %であることがより好ましく 0〜0. 3 % であることがさ らに好ましい。  There are no particular restrictions on the type of fiber B that is made of non-crimped fibers or crimps that do not substantially change the crimp rate when wet. Here, “the crimping rate does not change substantially when wet” means that the difference between the crimping rate DC during drying and the crimping rate HC when wet (DC—HC) is less than 0.5%. The crimp compression ratio difference (DC-HC) is more preferably 0 to 0.4%, and further preferably 0 to 0.3%.
繊維 Bとしては、 ポリエチレンテレフ夕レー ト、 ポリ ト リ メチレ ンテレフ夕レー ト、 ポリブチレンテレフタレー ト等のポリエステル 、 ナイ ロン 6、 ナイ ロン 66等のポリ アミ ド、 ポリエチレン、 ポリ プ ロピレン等のポリオレフイ ン、 アク リル、 パラ型もしく はメタ型ァ ラミ ド、 及びそれらの変性合成繊維、 天然繊維、 再生繊維、 半合成 繊維、 ポリ ウレタン系弾性糸、 ポリエーテルエステル系弾性糸など 衣料に適した繊維であれば自由に選択できる。 なかでも、 湿潤時の 寸法安定性や、 前記捲縮繊維 Aとの相性 (混繊性、 交編 · 交織性、 染色性) の良好なポリエチレンテレフ夕レー ト、 ポリ プロピレンテ レフ夕 レー ト、 ポリ ブチレンテレフ夕レー トや、 これらに前記共重 合成分が共重合された変性ポリエステルからなるポリエステル繊維 が好適である。 また、 繊維 Bの単繊維繊度及びそれが糸条又はフィ ラメン 卜束として使用されるとき、 その単繊維数には格別の限定は ないが、 得られる織編物の吸水性を高め、 水湿潤による凹凸の発現 を促進するためには、 繊維 Bの単繊維繊度は、 0. l〜 5 d t exである ことが好ましく、 0. 5〜 2 d t exであることがさ らに好ましく、 また 、 前記繊維 B糸条又はフィ ラメン ト束を構成する単繊維の数は 20〜 200本であることが好ま しく、 30〜100本であることがよ り好ましい 。 また繊維 B含有糸条又はフィ ラメン ト束にはイ ンターレース空気 加工及び 又は通常の仮撚捲縮加工が施され、 その構成単繊維が 20 〜60個 Z mの交絡数をもって、 互に交絡されていてもよい。 Fiber B includes: Polyethylene terephthalate, Polymethylene terephthalate, Polybutylene terephthalate and other polyesters, Nylon 6, Polyamides such as Nylon 66, Polyolefins such as polyethylene and Polypropylene Suitable for clothing such as rubber, acrylic, para-type or meta-type polyamide, and modified synthetic fibers, natural fibers, regenerated fibers, semi-synthetic fibers, polyurethane elastic yarns, polyether ester elastic yarns, etc. Any fiber can be selected. Above all, when wet Polyethylene terephthalate, polypropylene terephthalate, polybutylene terephthalate with good dimensional stability and compatibility with the above-mentioned crimped fiber A (mixing, knitting, weaving, dyeing) In addition, a polyester fiber made of a modified polyester obtained by copolymerizing the copolymer component with them is preferable. In addition, there is no particular limitation on the single fiber fineness of the fiber B and the number of single fibers when it is used as a yarn or filament bundle, but it increases the water absorption of the resulting woven or knitted fabric and is In order to promote the development of irregularities, the single fiber fineness of the fiber B is preferably 0.1 to 5 dt ex, more preferably 0.5 to 2 dt ex, and The number of single fibers constituting the fiber B yarn or filament bundle is preferably 20 to 200, more preferably 30 to 100. In addition, fiber B-containing yarns or filament bundles are subjected to interlaced air processing and / or normal false twist crimping, and the number of constituent single fibers of 20 to 60 Zm is entangled with each other. May be.
本発明の織編物には、 前記の水湿潤時に捲縮率が低下する捲縮繊 維 Aと、 非捲縮繊維及び/又は水湿潤時に捲縮率が実質的に変化し ない捲縮を有する繊維からなる繊維 Bとが含まれる。  The woven or knitted fabric of the present invention has the above-mentioned crimped fiber A in which the crimping rate decreases when wetted with water, and non-crimped fibers and / or crimps that do not substantially change the crimped rate when wetted with water. And fiber B made of fiber.
織編物の構造としては、 その織編組織、 層数は特に限定されるも のではない。 例えば、 平織、 綾織、 サテンなどの織組織や、 天竺、 スムース、 フライス、 鹿の子、 そえ糸編、 デンビ一、 ハーフなどの 編組織が好適に例示されるが、 これらに限定されるものではない。 層数も単層でもよいし、 2層以上の多層であってもよい。  As the structure of the woven or knitted fabric, the woven or knitted structure and the number of layers are not particularly limited. For example, woven structures such as plain weave, twill, satin, and knitted structures such as tenshi, smooth, milling, kanoko, knitting yarn, denbi, half, etc. are preferably exemplified, but not limited thereto. The number of layers may be a single layer or a multilayer of two or more layers.
ここで、 水湿潤により織編物に凹凸が発現する理由は、 織編物が 、 水湿潤により寸法変化 (拡張) する部分と水湿潤しても寸法変化 しないか寸法変化量が小さい部分とからなり、 前者が水湿潤により 寸法変化するのに対し、 後者が寸法変化しないか寸法変化量が小さ く、 このため水湿潤時に前者が凸部を形成し、 凹凸が発現するため であり、 水湿潤により凹凸を効果的に発現させるためには、 前記捲 縮繊維 Aと繊維 Bとを適切に配置させることが重要である。 Here, the reason why unevenness appears in the woven or knitted fabric by water wetting is that the woven or knitted fabric has a portion that undergoes dimensional change (expands) due to water wetting and a portion that does not change in dimension even when wetted with water or has a small dimensional change. While the former changes in dimensions due to water wetting, the latter does not change in dimension or the amount of dimensional change is small. In order to effectively express unevenness by water wetting, it is important to appropriately arrange the crimped fiber A and the fiber B.
本発明の織編物中に含まれる前記捲縮繊維 Aと繊維 Bの配置の好 ましい実施態様について下記に説明する。  A preferred embodiment of the arrangement of the crimped fibers A and fibers B contained in the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention will be described below.
まず実施態様 ( 1 ) において、 前記捲縮繊維 Aのみから構成され る 1 以上の部分 (Y部分) と、 前記繊維 Bのみで構成される 1 以上 の部分 ( Z部分) とを有し、 前記 Z部分が経方向及び/又は緯方向 、 或はゥエール方向及び 又はコース方向に連続的に形成されてい る。  First, in the embodiment (1), it has one or more parts (Y part) composed only of the crimped fibers A, and one or more parts (Z part) composed only of the fibers B, The Z portion is continuously formed in the longitudinal direction and / or the weft direction, or the wale direction and / or the course direction.
上記構造において、 Y部分が Z部分に比べ水湿潤時に寸法変化量 が大きく、 かつ織編物中において Z部分が経方向及びノ又は緯方向 或はゥエール方向及び Z又はコース方向に連続的につながつている ため織編物全体の寸法変化が抑えられ、 その結果、 Y部分が凸部と なって凹凸が発現する。  In the above structure, the Y part has a larger dimensional change when wet than the Z part, and the Z part is continuously connected in the warp direction and the no or weft direction or the wale direction and the Z or course direction in the woven or knitted fabric. Therefore, the dimensional change of the entire woven or knitted fabric can be suppressed, and as a result, the Y part becomes a convex part and unevenness appears.
図 6 ( A ) において、 織編物 7 には水湿潤による寸法変化量の大 きな Y部分 8 と、 水湿潤による寸法変化のない又は少ない Z部分 9 とにより構成されていて、 乾燥状態においては、 Y部分 8及び Z部 分 9 は、 平坦な表面を形成しているが、 それが水湿潤されると、 図 6 ( B ) に示されているように、 Y部分 8 の各々は、 織編物 7 の一 面側に伸び出して凸部を形成し、 このため織編物 7 の表面に凹凸を 形成する。  In Fig. 6 (A), the woven or knitted fabric 7 is composed of a Y portion 8 having a large dimensional change due to water wetting, and a Z portion 9 having little or no dimensional change due to water wetting. , Y portion 8 and Z portion 9 form a flat surface, but when it is wetted with water, each of Y portion 8 is woven as shown in FIG. 6 (B). The knitted fabric 7 extends to one side of the knitted fabric 7 to form a convex portion.
その際、 Z部分が経方向及び 又は緯方向或は、 ゥエール方向及 びノ又はコース方向に連続的につながるパターンには、 特に限定さ れないが、 例えば、 ボーダーパターン、 ス トライプパターン、 格子 パターン、 及び図 7 に模式的に示すダイヤ柄パターン、 或は市松格 子柄パターンなどが例示される。  At this time, the Z portion is not particularly limited to a pattern that is continuously connected in the longitudinal direction and / or the weft direction or the wale direction and the no or course direction, but for example, a border pattern, a stripe pattern, a lattice pattern, etc. A diamond pattern pattern or a checkered pattern pattern shown schematically in FIGS.
前記 Z部分と Y部分との面積比には特に限定はないが、 織編物の 寸法安定性を高めるためには Z部分 : Y部分面積比が 1 0 : 90〜90 : 1 0であることが好ましくより好ましく は、 20 : 80〜80 : 20である。 図 7 に示されている織編物 7 中において、 前記 Y部分 8 同士は Z 部分 9 によって互に離間されている。 その際、 Y部分 8 1 ケ所の 面積には特に限定がないが、 0. 0 1〜 4. O c m2であることが好ましく、 より好ましく は、 0. 1〜 1 . 0 c m2の範囲内である。 このようにすると 、 発汗時に衣服と肌とのべ トツキを防ぐ上で好ましい。 一方 Z部分 1 1の線巾は、 0. 5〜 1 00 mmの範囲内であることが好ましい。 There is no particular limitation on the area ratio between the Z part and the Y part. In order to enhance dimensional stability, the Z part: Y part area ratio is preferably 10: 90-90: 10, more preferably 20: 80-80: 20. In the woven or knitted fabric 7 shown in FIG. 7, the Y portions 8 are separated from each other by a Z portion 9. At that time, the area of the Y portion 81 is not particularly limited, but is preferably 0.01 to 4. O cm 2 , more preferably within the range of 0.1 to 1.0 cm 2 . It is. In this way, it is preferable to prevent stickiness between clothes and skin when sweating. On the other hand, the line width of the Z portion 11 is preferably in the range of 0.5 to 100 mm.
本発明の織編物の実施態様 ( 2 ) において、 前記繊維 Bのみで構 成される部分 ( Z部分) と、 前記捲縮繊維 Aと前記繊維 Bとにより 構成される部分 (X部分) とを有し、 前記 Z部分が経方向及び/又 は緯方向或はゥエール方向及び/又はコース方向に連続的に形成さ れている。  In the embodiment (2) of the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention, a portion (Z portion) composed only of the fiber B, and a portion (X portion) composed of the crimped fiber A and the fiber B The Z portion is continuously formed in the longitudinal direction and / or the weft direction or the wale direction and / or the course direction.
このような構造では、 X部分が Z部分に比べ水湿潤時に寸法変化 量が大きく 、 かつ織編物中において Z部分が経方向及び 又は緯方 向或はゥエール方向及び/又はコース方向に連続的につながつてい るため織編物全体の寸法変化が抑えられ、 その結果、 X部分が凸と なって凹凸が発現する。 その際、 Z部分の連続状態を示すパターン 及び、 両者の面積比は実施態様 ( 1 ) と同程度でよい。  In such a structure, the X portion has a larger dimensional change when wet than the Z portion, and the Z portion is continuously in the warp direction and / or the weft direction or the wale direction and / or the course direction in the woven or knitted fabric. As a result, the dimensional change of the entire woven or knitted fabric can be suppressed, and as a result, the X portion becomes convex and irregularities appear. At that time, the pattern indicating the continuous state of the Z portion and the area ratio between them may be the same as those in the embodiment (1).
本発明の織編物の実施態様 ( 3 ) において、 前記捲縮繊維 Aと前 記繊維 Bとで構成される部分 (X部分) と、 前記捲縮繊維 Aのみで 構成される部分 (Y部分) とを有し、 この織編物において前記 X部 分が経方向及び/又は緯方向或はゥエール方向及び/又はコース方 向に連続的につながつている。  In the embodiment (3) of the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention, a part (X part) composed of the crimped fiber A and the fiber B and a part (Y part) composed only of the crimped fiber A In this woven or knitted fabric, the X part is continuously connected in the warp direction and / or the weft direction or the wale direction and / or the course direction.
このような構造では、 Y部分が X部分に比べ水湿潤に寸法変化量 が大きく、 かつ織編物中において X部分が経方向及び 又は緯方向 或はゥエール方向及び/又はコース方向に連続的につながつている ため織編物全体の寸法変化が抑えられ、 その結果、 Y部分が凸部と なって凹凸が発現する。 その際、 X部分の連続パターン及び、 両者 の面積比は実施態様 ( 1 ) と同程度でよい。 In such a structure, the dimensional change is greater in the Y part than in the X part, and the X part is continuously connected in the warp direction and / or the weft direction or the wale direction and / or the course direction in the woven or knitted fabric. Have Therefore, the dimensional change of the entire woven or knitted fabric can be suppressed, and as a result, the Y part becomes a convex part and unevenness appears. At that time, the continuous pattern of the X portion and the area ratio of both may be the same as those in the embodiment (1).
本発明の織編物の実施態様 ( 4 ) において、 前記織編物が、 前記 捲縮繊維 Aと前記繊維 B とで構成される部分 (X部分) と、 前記捲 縮繊維 Aのみで構成される部分 (Y部分) と、 前記繊維 Bのみで構 成される部分 ( Z部分) とを有し、 前記 Z部が経方向及び 又は緯 方向或はゥエール方向及び 又はコース方向に連続的につながって いる。  In the embodiment (4) of the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention, the woven or knitted fabric is a portion composed of the crimped fiber A and the fiber B (portion X) and a portion composed only of the crimped fiber A. (Y portion) and a portion (Z portion) composed only of the fiber B, and the Z portion is continuously connected in the longitudinal direction and / or the weft direction or the wale direction and / or the course direction. .
このような構造では、 Z部分が他の部 (X部又は Y部) に比べ水 湿潤時における寸法変化量が最も少なく、 かつ織編物中において Z 部分が経方向及び 又は緯方向に連続的につながつているため、 織 編物全体の寸法変化が抑えられ、 その結果、 他の部 (X部分又は Y 部分) が凸部となって凹凸が発現する。 その際、 Z部分の連続パ夕 ーンや、 Z部分の面積と他の部分の合計面積との面積比は、 実施態 様 ( 1 ) と同程度でよい。  In such a structure, the Z part has the least amount of dimensional change when wet with water compared to other parts (X part or Y part), and the Z part is continuously in the warp and / or weft direction in the woven or knitted fabric. As a result, the dimensional change of the entire woven or knitted fabric is suppressed, and as a result, the other part (X part or Y part) becomes a convex part and unevenness appears. At that time, the continuous pattern of the Z portion and the area ratio of the area of the Z portion and the total area of the other portions may be the same as those in the embodiment (1).
次に本発明の織編物の実施態様 ( 5 ) において、 織編物が 2層以 上からなる多層織編物であり、 前記捲縮繊維 Aと繊維 Bとで構成さ れる少なく とも 1 層 (X層) と、 前記繊維 Bのみで構成される少な く とも 1 層 ( Z層) とを有し、 かつ前者の層と後者の層とが部分的 に結接されている。  Next, in an embodiment (5) of the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention, the woven or knitted fabric is a multilayer woven or knitted fabric comprising two or more layers, and is composed of at least one layer (X layer) composed of the crimped fibers A and the fibers B. ) And at least one layer (Z layer) composed only of the fiber B, and the former layer and the latter layer are partially joined.
かかる構造では、 X層はて Z層に比べ湿潤による寸法変化が大き く、 X層の中で Z層と結接されていない部分が凸部を形成し凹凸が 発現する。  In such a structure, the dimensional change due to wetting is greater in the X layer than in the Z layer, and the portion of the X layer that is not connected to the Z layer forms a convex portion and develops irregularities.
図 4 ( A ) において、 織編物 4は X層 6 と Z層 5 と、 これらを部 分的に結接する結接層 5 a とにより構成される多層体である。 この 多層織編物を水湿潤すると、 図 4 ( B ) に示されているように X層 6 は、 結接部の中間で伸長して、 凸部 6 a を形成するが、 X層 6 の 結接層 5 aにより結接されている部分 6 bは伸長できない。 その結 果織編物の 1 面側に凹凸が形成される。 In FIG. 4 (A), the woven or knitted fabric 4 is a multilayer body composed of an X layer 6 and a Z layer 5 and a connection layer 5 a that partially connects them. When this multi-layer knitted fabric is wetted with water, as shown in Fig. 4 (B), layer X 6 expands in the middle of the connection portion to form a convex portion 6 a, but the portion 6 b connected by the connection layer 5 a of the X layer 6 cannot expand. As a result, irregularities are formed on one side of the woven or knitted fabric.
図 5 に示されてるように、 織編物の X層 6カ その格子状部分 6 bが結接層 (図 5 には図示されていない) により Z層 (図示されて いない) に結接されているとき、 結接されていない部分 6 aは、 水 湿潤により伸長して外側に張り出して、 互に離間して分布する複数 の四角形状凸部を形成し 、 多層織編物の 1面側に凹凸を形成する。 或は、 結接されていない部分が格子状に形成され結接されている部 分が、 互に離間した複数個の領域を形成していてもよい。  As shown in Fig. 5, the 6 layers X of the woven or knitted fabric are connected to the Z layer (not shown) by the connecting layer (not shown in Fig. 5) by the connecting layer 6b. When not connected, the portion 6a is extended by water wetting and projecting outward to form a plurality of quadrangular convex portions distributed apart from each other, and the concave and convex portions are formed on one side of the multi-layer woven or knitted fabric Form. Alternatively, the unconnected portions may be formed in a lattice shape, and the connected portions may form a plurality of regions spaced from each other.
次に本発明の織編物の実施態様 ( 6 ) において、 この織編物が 2 層以上からなる多層織編物であり、 前記捲縮繊維 Aと繊維 Bとで構 成される少なく とち 1 層 ( X層) と、 前記捲縮繊維 Aのみで構成さ れる少なく とも 1 層 ( Y層) を有し、 かつ X層と Y層とが部分的に 結接されてい  Next, in the embodiment (6) of the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention, the woven or knitted fabric is a multilayer woven or knitted fabric composed of two or more layers, and is composed of at least one layer composed of the crimped fibers A and the fibers B ( X layer) and at least one layer (Y layer) composed only of the crimped fiber A, and the X layer and the Y layer are partially joined.
このよ Όな構造では、 Y は X層に比ベて湿潤による寸法変化が 大きく、 Y層の中で X層と結接されていない部分が凸部を形成して 凹凸が発現する  In such a structure, Y has a larger dimensional change due to wetting than the X layer, and the portion of the Y layer that is not connected to the X layer forms a convex portion, resulting in unevenness.
次に本発明の織編物の実施能様 ( 7 ) において、 前記織編物が 2 層以上からなる多層織編物であり HU 己捲縮繊維 Aのみで構成され る少なく とも 1 層 (Y層 ) と HIJ記繊維 Bのみ ( Z層) で構成され る少なく とち 1 層を有し Υ と Z層とが部分的に結接されている このよ な構造において Y層は Z層に比べて湿潤による寸法変 化が大き < Y層のなかで Ζ μと結接されていない部分が凸部を形 成し凹凸が発現する。  Next, in the performance aspect (7) of the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention, the woven or knitted fabric is a multilayer woven or knitted fabric composed of two or more layers, and is composed of at least one layer (Y layer) composed only of HU self-crimped fibers A. It has at least one layer composed of HIJ fiber B only (Z layer), and Υ and Z layer are partially connected. In this structure, Y layer is more wet than Z layer. Large dimensional change <Y part of the Y layer that is not connected to Ζμ forms a bulge, resulting in ruggedness.
本発明の織編物は、 下記の製造方法によって容易に得ることがで きる。 The woven or knitted fabric of the present invention can be easily obtained by the following production method. wear.
本発明方法は、 水湿潤により凹凸が発現する捲縮繊維含有織編物 を製造する方法であって、 熱処理を施すことによって捲縮を発現し 、 かっ この捲縮が、 水により湿潤されたときに、 その捲縮率を低下 する特性を有する、 捲縮繊維 A形成用繊維と、 前記熱処理によって 捲縮を発現しない繊維及び、 前記熱処理によって捲縮を発現するが 、 その捲縮は、 水による湿潤によりその捲縮率を実質上低下しない 物性を有する繊維から選ばれた少なく とも 1種からなる繊維 B形成 用繊維とから前駆織編物を製造する工程と、 この前駆織編物に熱処 理を施して、 前記捲縮繊維 A及び繊維 Bを含む織編物を形成するェ 程とを含むことを特徴とするものである。  The method of the present invention is a method for producing a crimped fiber-containing woven or knitted fabric in which unevenness is manifested by water wetting, when the crimp is developed by heat treatment, and when the crimp is wetted by water. A crimped fiber A-forming fiber having a property of reducing the crimp rate, a fiber that does not develop crimp by the heat treatment, and a crimp that develops crimp by the heat treatment, but the crimp is wet with water The step of producing a precursor knitted fabric from at least one type of fiber B forming fiber selected from fibers having physical properties that do not substantially reduce the crimping rate by the heat treatment, and subjecting the precursor woven knitted fabric to heat treatment And a step of forming a woven or knitted fabric including the crimped fiber A and the fiber B.
本発明方法にいおて、 前記捲縮繊維 A形成用繊維が、 吸水 · 自己 伸長性において、 互に異なり、 かつサイ ド一バイ 一サイ ド型に接合 されたポリエステル樹脂成分と、 ポリアミ ド樹脂成分とからなる未 捲縮複合繊維から選ばれることが好ましく、 前記未捲縮複合繊維中 のポリエステル樹脂成分が、 0. 30〜0. 43の固有粘度を有するポリエ ステル樹脂を含み、 前記ポリ アミ ド樹脂成分が、 1. 0〜 1. 4の固有粘 度を有するポリアミ ド樹脂を含むことが好ましい。  In the method of the present invention, the crimped fiber A-forming fibers are different in water absorption and self-extension properties, and are joined in a side-by-side type, and a polyamide resin. Preferably, the polyester resin component in the uncrimped composite fiber includes a polyester resin having an intrinsic viscosity of 0.30 to 0.43, and the polyamide It is preferable that the resin component contains a polyamide resin having an intrinsic viscosity of 1.0 to 1.4.
本発明方法の 1 例において、 固有粘度が 0. 30〜0. 43 (オルソクロ 口フエノールを溶媒と して 35 で測定) のポリエステルと、 固有粘 度が 1. 0〜 1. 4 ( m—ク レゾ一ルを溶媒として 30°Cで測定) のポリ ア ミ ドとを用いてサイ ドバイサイ ド型に溶融複合紡糸する。 その際、 ポリエステル成分の固有粘度が 0. 43以下であることが特に好ましい 、 ポリエステル成分の固有粘度が 0. 43より も大きいと、 ポリエステ ル成分の粘度が増大するため、 複合繊維の物性がポリエステル単独 繊維に近くなり、 本発明の目的達成し得る織編物が得られないこと がある。 逆に、 ポリエステル成分の固有粘度が 0. 30よ り も小さいと 、 溶融粘度が小さくなりすぎて製糸性が低下するとともに毛羽発生 が多くなり、 品質及び生産性が低下するおそれがある。 In one example of the process of the present invention, a polyester having an intrinsic viscosity of 0.30 to 0.43 (measured at 35 using ortho-phenol as a solvent) and an intrinsic viscosity of 1.0 to 1.4 (m Melt-spinning into a side-by-side type using a polyamide with a solvent as a solvent (measured at 30 ° C). In that case, it is particularly preferable that the intrinsic viscosity of the polyester component is 0.43 or less. If the intrinsic viscosity of the polyester component is greater than 0.43, the viscosity of the polyester component increases. Since it becomes close to a single fiber, a woven or knitted fabric that can achieve the object of the present invention may not be obtained. Conversely, if the intrinsic viscosity of the polyester component is less than 0.30 The melt viscosity becomes too small, and the yarn-making property is lowered, and the generation of fluff is increased, which may reduce the quality and productivity.
溶融紡糸の際に用いる紡糸口金と しては、 特開 2000— 144518号公 報の図 1 に示されているような、 高粘度側と低粘度側の吐出孔を分 離し、 かつ高粘度側吐出線速度を小さ く した (吐出断面積を大きく した) 紡糸口金を用いることが好適である。 そして、 高粘度側吐出 孔に溶融ポリエステルを通過させ、 低粘度側吐出孔に溶融ポリ アミ ドを通過させ両者を接合しながら冷却固化させることが好ましい。 その際、 ポリエステル成分とポリアミ ド成分との重量比は、 前述の とおり、 30 : 70〜70: 30であることが好ましくより好ましく は 40 : 60〜60 : 40である。  As the spinneret used for melt spinning, the high-viscosity side and the low-viscosity discharge holes are separated as shown in Fig. 1 of JP-A-2000-144518. It is preferable to use a spinneret with a reduced discharge linear velocity (with a larger discharge cross-sectional area). Then, it is preferable to allow the molten polyester to pass through the high-viscosity side discharge holes and to pass through the molten polyamide through the low-viscosity side discharge holes to cool and solidify them while joining them. In this case, the weight ratio of the polyester component to the polyamide component is preferably 30:70 to 70:30, more preferably 40:60 to 60:40, as described above.
また、 溶融複合紡糸した後、 一旦巻き取った後に延伸する別延方 式を採用してもよいし、 或は巻き取らずに延伸熱処理を行う直延方 式を採用してもよい。 その際、 紡糸 · 延伸条件と しては、 通常の条 件でよい。 例えば、 直延方式の場合、 1000〜 3500mZ分程度の紡糸 速度で紡糸した後、 連続して 100〜! 50°Cの温度で延伸し巻き取る。 延伸倍率は最終時に得られる複合繊維の切断伸び率が好ましく は 10 〜60% (よ り好ましく は 20〜45%) になり、 引張強さが好ましくは 3.0〜4.7cN/dtex程度となるように適宜選定すればよい。  Further, after the melt composite spinning, another winding method in which the film is once wound and then stretched may be employed, or a straight stretching method in which a stretching heat treatment is performed without winding may be employed. At that time, normal conditions may be used as the spinning and drawing conditions. For example, in the case of the straight-roll method, after spinning at a spinning speed of about 1000-3500mZ, 100 ~! Drawing and winding at a temperature of 50 ° C. The draw ratio of the composite fiber obtained at the end is preferably 10 to 60% (more preferably 20 to 45%), and the tensile strength is preferably about 3.0 to 4.7 cN / dtex. What is necessary is just to select suitably.
本発明方法において、 前記未捲縮複合繊維が、 沸騰水中において 捲縮発現処理を施された後、  In the method of the present invention, after the uncrimped conjugate fiber is subjected to crimp expression treatment in boiling water,
( 1 ) 温度 20°C、 湿度 65%RHの環境下に 24時間放置した後に 1.5〜1 3%の範囲内にある乾燥捲縮率 DCを有し、  (1) Having a dry crimp rate DC in the range of 1.5 to 13% after standing for 24 hours in an environment of temperature 20 ° C and humidity 65% RH,
( 2 ) 温度 20 の水中に 2時間浸漬した直後に、 0.5〜7.0%の範囲 内にある水湿潤捲縮率 HCを有し、 かつ  (2) Immediately after being immersed in water at a temperature of 20 for 2 hours, it has a water wet crimp rate HC in the range of 0.5 to 7.0%, and
( 3 ) 前記乾燥捲縮率 DCと水湿潤捲縮率 HCとの差 (DC— HC) が、 0. 5%以上であることが好ましい。 前記乾燥捲縮率 DCは、 2〜 6 %で あることがより好ましく、 水湿潤捲縮率 HCは、 1 〜 3 %であること がより好ましく、 乾燥捲縮率 DCと水湿潤捲縮率 HCとの差 (DC— HC) は、 :! 〜 5 %であることがより好ましい。 (3) The difference (DC−HC) between the dry crimp rate DC and the water wet crimp rate HC is preferably 0.5% or more. The dry crimp rate DC is 2 to 6%. More preferably, the water wet crimp rate HC is more preferably 1 to 3%, and the difference between the dry crimp rate DC and the water wet crimp rate HC (DC—HC) is:! More preferably, it is ˜5%.
前記乾燥捲縮率 DC及び水湿潤捲縮率は下記測定方法により測定す る。  The dry crimp rate DC and the water wet crimp rate are measured by the following measuring methods.
枠周 : 1. 125mの巻き返し枠を用いて、 荷重 : 49Z50mNX 9 X ト 一夕ルテックス (0. lgix トータルデニール) をかけて一定の速度 で巻き返し、 卷き数 : 10回の小認をつく り、 該小認をねじり 2重の 輪状にしたものに 49 2500mNX20x 9 X トータルテックス ( 2 mgX 20 X トータルデニール) の初荷重をかけたまま沸水中に入れて 30分 間処理し、 該沸水処理の後 100°Cの乾燥機にて 30分間乾燥し、 その 後さ らに初荷重をかけたまま 160での乾燥中に入れ 5分間処理する 。 この乾熱処理の後に初荷重を除き、 温度 20°C、 湿度 65%RH環境下 に 24時間以上放置した後、 前記の初荷重及び θδ ^ΟιηΝΧΖθΧ 9 X ト —タルテックス (0.2gf x20x トータルデニール) の重荷重を負荷 し、 総長 : L 0 を測定し、 その後直ちに重荷重のみを取り除き、 除 重 1分後の総長 : L 1 を測定する。 さ らにこの緦を初荷重をかけた まま温度 20°Cの水中に 2時間浸漬した後取り出し、 1対のろ紙 (大 きさ 30cmX30cm) の間に挟み、 これに 0. GgmNZcm2 (70mgf/cm2 ) の圧力を 5秒間かけて軽く水を拭き取った後、 初荷重及び重荷重を 負荷し、 総長 : L 0 ' を測定し、 直ちに重荷重のみを取り除き、 除 重 1分後の総長 : L 1 ' を測定する。 以上の測定数値から下記の計 算式により、 乾燥時の捲縮率 DC (%) 、 湿潤時の捲縮率 HC (%) 、 乾燥時と湿潤時の捲縮率差 (DC— HC) (%) を算出する。 なお、 測 定回数 nは 5で、 測定値の平均値を求める。 Frame circumference: 1. Using a 125m rewinding frame, load: 49Z50mNX 9 X and turn it at a constant speed (0. lgix total denier) and roll it up at a constant speed. In the twisted double ring, the endorsement was put into boiling water with the initial load of 49 2500mNX20x 9 X Totaltex (2 mgX 20 X total denier) for 30 minutes. Then, dry it for 30 minutes in a dryer at 100 ° C, and then put it into the drying at 160 with the initial load applied and treat for 5 minutes. After this dry heat treatment, the initial load is removed and the sample is left in a temperature of 20 ° C and humidity of 65% RH for at least 24 hours. Then, the initial load and θδ ^ ΟιηΝΧΖθ X 9 x totartex (0.2gf x20x total denier) , Measure the total length: L0, immediately remove only the heavy load, and measure the total length: L1 after 1 minute of dehumidification. In addition, the bag was immersed in water at a temperature of 20 ° C for 2 hours with the initial load applied, taken out and sandwiched between a pair of filter papers (size 30cmX30cm), and 0. GgmNZcm 2 (70mgf / After lightly wiping off the water for 5 seconds with a pressure of cm 2 ), apply initial load and heavy load, measure total length: L 0 ', immediately remove only heavy load, and total length after 1 minute of depletion: Measure L 1 '. From the above measured values, the following formula is used to calculate the crimp ratio DC (%) during drying, HC (%) crimp when wet, and the difference in crimp ratio between dry and wet (DC—HC) (% ) Is calculated. The number of measurements n is 5, and the average value of the measured values is obtained.
乾燥時の捲縮率 DC ( ) = ( ( L 0 - L 1 ) /L 0 ) X 100 湿潤時の捲縮率 HC (%) = ( (L 0 ' - L 1 ' ) /L 0 ' ) X 100 本発明に用いられる捲縮複合繊維 Aにおいて、 その乾燥捲縮率 DC が 1. 5 %より も小さいとき、 水湿潤時の捲縮変化量が小さ くなるた め、 凹凸が発現しないおそれがある。 逆に、 乾燥捲縮率 DCが 13 %よ り も大きい場合は、 捲縮が強すぎて水湿潤時に捲縮が変化しにく く 、 やはり凹凸が発現しないおそれがある。 また、 乾燥捲縮率 DCと水 湿潤捲縮率 HCとの差 (DC— HC ) が 0. 5 %より小さい場合も、 水湿潤 時に凹凸が発現しないおそれがある。 Crimp rate during drying DC () = ((L 0-L 1) / L 0) X 100 Crimp rate when wet HC (%) = ((L 0 '-L 1') / L 0 ') X 100 In the crimped composite fiber A used in the present invention, when the dry crimp ratio DC is less than 1.5%, the amount of crimp change when wet with water becomes small, so that the unevenness may not appear. . On the other hand, when the dry crimp ratio DC is larger than 13%, the crimp is too strong, and the crimp does not easily change when wet with water, and there is a possibility that unevenness will not appear. In addition, even when the difference between the dry crimp rate DC and the water wet crimp rate HC (DC-HC) is less than 0.5%, there is a possibility that unevenness does not appear when wetted with water.
前記複合繊維と、 非捲縮または湿潤時に捲縮率が実質的に変化し ない捲縮を有する繊維 Bとを同時に用いて織編物を織編成した後、 染色加工を施し、 染色加工の際の熱により前記複合繊維の潜在捲縮 を発現させる (捲縮繊維とする) 。  A woven or knitted fabric is knitted simultaneously using the composite fiber and a fiber B having a crimp that does not change substantially when crimped or not crimped, and is then subjected to a dyeing process. The latent crimp of the composite fiber is expressed by heat (referred to as a crimped fiber).
ここで、 織編物を織編成する際、 織編組織は特に限定されず、 前 述のものを適宜選定することができる。  Here, when the knitted or knitted fabric is knitted, the woven or knitted structure is not particularly limited, and the above-described one can be appropriately selected.
前記染色加工の温度としては 100〜 140°Cであることが好ましく よ り好ましく は 1 1 0〜 135°Cであり、 染色時間は卜ップ温度のキープ時 間が 5 〜40分の範囲内であることが好ましい。 このような条件で、 織編物に染色加工を施すことにより、 前記複合繊維は、 ポリエステ ル成分とポリアミ ド成分との熱収縮差により捲縮を発現する。 その 際、 ポリエステル成分とポリアミ ド成分として、 前述のポリマーを 選定することにより、 ポリアミ ド成分が捲縮の内側に位置する捲縮 構造が形成される。  The dyeing processing temperature is preferably 100 to 140 ° C, more preferably 110 to 135 ° C, and the dyeing time is within the range of 5 to 40 minutes when keeping the kneading temperature. It is preferable that By subjecting the woven or knitted fabric to a dyeing process under such conditions, the composite fiber develops crimps due to a difference in thermal shrinkage between the polyester component and the polyamide component. At that time, by selecting the aforementioned polymer as the polyester component and the polyamide component, a crimp structure in which the polyamide component is located inside the crimp is formed.
染色加工が施された織編物には、 通常、 乾熱ファイナルセッ トが 施される。 その際、 乾燥ファイナルセッ トの温度は 120〜200でであ ることが好ましくより好ましく は 140〜 1 80°Cであり、 ファイナルセ ッ ト時間としては 1 〜 3分の範囲内であることが好ましい。 乾熱フ アイナルセッ トの温度力 でより も低いと、 染色加工時に発生し たシヮが残り易く、 また、 仕上がり製品の寸法安定性が悪くなるお それがある。 逆に、 該乾熱ファイナルセッ トの温度力 200でより も 高いと、 染色加工の際に発現した複合繊維の捲縮が低下したり、 繊 維が硬化し生地の風合いが硬くなるおそれがある。 A woven or knitted fabric that has been dyed is usually subjected to a dry heat final set. At that time, the temperature of the drying final set is preferably 120 to 200, more preferably 140 to 180 ° C, and the final set time may be within a range of 1 to 3 minutes. preferable. If it is lower than the temperature of the dry heat final set, stains generated during the dyeing process are likely to remain, and the dimensional stability of the finished product will deteriorate. There is it. On the contrary, if the temperature of the dry heat final set is higher than 200, there is a risk that the crimp of the composite fiber developed during the dyeing process may be reduced, or the fiber may be hardened and the texture of the fabric may be hardened. .
本発明方法により得られた織編物において、 織編物が発汗や降雨 により湿潤されると、 捲縮繊維 Aは自身の捲縮量が低下することに よりその見掛け長さが伸長する。 一方、 繊維 Bは湿潤されても伸長 しないため、 織編物全体の寸法が固定される。 その結果、 水湿潤に より、 捲縮繊維 Aが含まれる部分が凸部を形成し凹凸が発現する。 このような凹凸の発現により、 湿潤時のべ トツキを低減することが できる。 べ トツキ低減の目安として、 ベ トツキ力が 980mN ( l OOgr f ) 以下であることが好ましい。 ここで、 べ トツキ力とは、 特開平 9 - 195 172号公報の図 1 に示されているように、 直径 8 cmの金属ロー ラーに、 長さ 1 5 cm、 巾 6 cmの布帛をのせ、 一端をス ト レス ' ス ト レ イ ン · ゲージに取り付け、 布帛のもう一端に重さ 98mN ( l Og r f ) の ク リ ップを取り付ける。 次いで金属ローラ一を 7 cm/ s ecの表面速 度で回転させながら注射器で金属口一ラーと布帛との間に 0. 5 cm3を 注入し、 このとき布帛にかかる張力をス ト レス ' ス ト レイ ン · ゲー ジで測定し、 その最大値をべ 卜ツキ力とする。 In the woven or knitted fabric obtained by the method of the present invention, when the woven or knitted fabric is wetted by perspiration or rain, the apparent length of the crimped fiber A is extended due to a decrease in the amount of crimp. On the other hand, since the fiber B does not stretch even when wet, the overall dimensions of the woven or knitted fabric are fixed. As a result, due to water wetting, the portion containing the crimped fiber A forms a convex portion, and unevenness is developed. Such unevenness can reduce stickiness when wet. As a measure for reducing stickiness, the stickiness force is preferably 980 mN (l OOgr f) or less. Here, the sticky force means that a fabric having a length of 15 cm and a width of 6 cm is placed on a metal roller having a diameter of 8 cm as shown in FIG. 1 of JP-A-9-195172. Attach one end to a 'strain gauge and attach a clip weighing 98mN (l Og rf) to the other end of the fabric. Next, while rotating the metal roller at a surface speed of 7 cm / s ec, 0.5 cm 3 is injected between the metal nozzle and the fabric with a syringe, and the tension applied to the fabric is stressed. Measure with a strain gauge and use the maximum value as the stickiness.
なお、 本発明の織編物には、 常法の吸水加工、 撥水加工、 起毛加 ェ、 紫外線遮蔽あるいは抗菌剤、 消臭剤、 防虫剤、 蓄光剤、 再帰反 射剤、 マイナスイオン発生剤等の機能を付与する各種加工を付加適 用してもよい。  In the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention, conventional water-absorbing processing, water-repellent processing, raising brushing, ultraviolet ray shielding or antibacterial agent, deodorant agent, insect repellent agent, phosphorescent agent, retroreflective agent, negative ion generator, etc. Various processings that give these functions may be applied.
本発明の捲縮繊維含有織編物を用いて、 種々の繊維製品を製造す ることができる。  Using the crimped fiber-containing woven or knitted fabric of the present invention, various fiber products can be produced.
本発明の繊維製品は、 アウター用衣料、 スポーツ用衣料及びイ ン ナー用衣料を包含する。 実施例 The textile product of the present invention includes outer garments, sports garments, and inner garments. Example
本発明を下記実施例により さ らに説明する。 但し下記実施例は、 本発明の範囲を制限するものではない。  The invention is further illustrated by the following examples. However, the following examples do not limit the scope of the present invention.
下記実施例及び比較例において、 下記測定を行った。  In the following examples and comparative examples, the following measurements were performed.
1 . ポリエステルの固有粘度  1. Intrinsic viscosity of polyester
オルソクロロフエノールを溶媒として使用 し 35 で測定した。 Measured at 35 using orthochlorophenol as solvent.
2. ポリ アミ ドの固有粘度 2. Intrinsic viscosity of polyamide
m _ク レゾールを溶媒として使用し温度 30°Cで測定した。  m_cresol was used as a solvent and measured at a temperature of 30 ° C.
3. 引張強さ、 破断伸び率  3. Tensile strength, elongation at break
繊維試料を、 雰囲気温度 25°C、 湿度 60%RHの恒温恒温に保たれた 部屋に一昼夜放置した後、 サンプル長さ 100mmで (株) 島津製作所 製引張試験機テンシロンにセッ 卜し、 200mmZminの速度で伸張し、 破断時の強度 (cNZdtex) 、 伸度 (%) を測定した。 なお、 n数 5 でその平均値を求めた。  After leaving the fiber sample in a room maintained at a constant temperature and temperature of 25 ° C and humidity of 60% RH for a whole day and night, set it to Tensilon, a Shimadzu Corporation tensile tester with a sample length of 100 mm, The sample was stretched at a speed, and the strength at break (cNZdtex) and elongation (%) were measured. The average value was obtained from n number 5.
4. 沸水収縮率  4. Boiling water shrinkage
JIS L 1013- 1998、 7. 15で規定される方法により、 沸水収縮率 ( %) を測定した。 なお、 n数 3でその平均値を求めた。  The boiling water shrinkage (%) was measured by the method specified in JIS L 1013-1998, 7.15. The average value was obtained from n number 3.
5. 複合繊維の捲縮率  5. Crimp rate of composite fiber
枠周 : 1. 125mの巻き返し枠を用いて、 荷重 : 49/ 50mNX 9 X ト 一タルテックス (0. lgf xトータルデニール) をかけて一定の速度 で巻き返し、 巻き数 : 10回の小緦をつく り、 該小緦をねじり 2重の 輪状にしたものに 49/ 2500πιΝΧ20Χ 9 Χ トータルテックス ( 2 mgx 20Xトータルデニール) の初荷重をかけたまま沸水中に入れて 30分 間処理し、 該沸水処理の後 100での乾燥機にて 30分間乾燥し、 その 後さ らに初荷重をかけたまま 160°Cの乾熱中に入れ 5分間処理した 。 該乾熱処理の後に初荷重を除き、 温度 20°C、 湿度 65%RH環境下に 24時間以上放置した後、 前記の初荷重及び 98Z50mNx20x 9 X トー タルテックス (0.2gf x20x トータルデニール) の重荷重を負荷し 、 緦長 : L 0 を測定し、 直ちに重荷重のみを取り除き、 除重 1分後 の総長 : L 1 を測定した。 さ らにこの緦を初荷重をかけたまま温度 20での水中に 2時間浸漬した後取り出し、 ろ紙にて軽く水を拭き取 つた後、 初荷重及び重荷重を負荷し総長 : L 0 ' を測定し、 直ちに 重荷重のみを取り除き、 除重 1分後の総長 : L 1 ' を測定した。 上 記の測定数値から下記の計算式により、 乾燥捲縮率 DC (%) 、 水湿 潤捲縮率 HC (%) 、 乾燥及び水湿潤捲縮率の差 (DC— HC) (%) を 算出した。 なお、 n数は 5で平均値を求めた。 Frame circumference: 1. Using a 125m rewind frame, load: 49 / 50mNX 9 X total tex (0. lgf x total denier) and roll at a constant speed. Make a twisted dovetail into a double ring shape and place it in boiling water under the initial load of 49 / 2500πιΝΧ20Χ 9 ト ー タ ル Totaltex (2 mgx 20X total denier) for 30 minutes. After the treatment, it was dried in a dryer at 100 for 30 minutes, and then placed in 160 ° C dry heat for 5 minutes with the initial load applied. After the dry heat treatment, remove the initial load and leave it in a temperature 20 ° C, humidity 65% RH environment for 24 hours or more. Then, the initial load and 98Z50mNx20x 9 X A heavy load of tartex (0.2 gf x20x total denier) was applied, the heel length: L 0 was measured, only the heavy load was immediately removed, and the total length 1 minute after dewetting was measured: L 1. Furthermore, after this soak was immersed in water at a temperature of 20 hours with the initial load applied and removed for 2 hours, lightly wipe off the water with filter paper, and then the initial load and heavy load were applied, and the total length: L 0 ' We measured and immediately removed only the heavy load, and measured the total length of L 1 'after 1 minute of dewetting. From the above measured values, the following formula is used to calculate the dry crimp rate DC (%), the wet and wet crimp rate HC (%), and the difference between the dry and water wet crimp rate (DC—HC) (%). Calculated. The average value was obtained when n was 5.
乾燥時の捲縮率 DC (%) = ( ( L 0 - L 1 ) / L 0 ) X 100 湿潤時の捲縮率 HC (%) = ( ( L 0 ' - L 1 ' ) /L 0 ' ) X 100 6. ベ 卜ツキ力 Crimp rate during drying DC (%) = ((L 0-L 1) / L 0) X 100 Crimp rate when wet HC (%) = ((L 0 '-L 1') / L 0 ' ) X 100 6. Strong power
特開平 9 — 195 2号公報の図 1 に示されているように、 表面を研 磨した直径 8 cmの金属口一ラーに、 長さ 15cni、 巾 6 cmの供試織編物 の試験片をのせ、 一端をス トレス · ス ト レイ ン · ゲージに取り付け 、 試験片の他の一端に重さ 98DIN (lOgri) のク リ ップを取り付けた 。 次に金属口一ラーを 7 CDiZsecの表面速度で回転させながら注射 器で金属ローラーと布帛との間に 0.5mlの水を静かに注入し、 この とき試験片にかかる張力をス トレス · ス トレィ ン · ゲージで測定し 、 その最大値をべ 卜ツキ力と した。 なお、 n数は 5 と しその平均値 を求めた。 測定値が高い程、 ベ 卜ツキ力が高い。  As shown in Fig. 1 of Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 9-1952, a test piece of a test knitted fabric knitted with a length of 15 cni and a width of 6 cm is placed on a 8 mm diameter metal luff with a polished surface. One end was attached to a stress strain gauge, and a clip weighing 98 DIN (lOgri) was attached to the other end of the test piece. Next, while rotating the metal nozzle at a surface speed of 7 CDiZsec, 0.5 ml of water is gently injected between the metal roller and the fabric with a syringe, and the tension applied to the test piece at this time is stressed. The maximum value was taken as the sticking force. The number of n was 5, and the average value was obtained. The higher the measured value, the higher the stickiness.
7. 凹凸変化率  7. Concavity and convexity change rate
織編物を温度 20°C、 湿度 65%RH環境下に 24時間放置した後、 該織 編物から、 30cniX30cmの小片を裁断して試験片を作製した ( n数 = 5 ) 。 そして、 温度 20 、 湿度 65%RH環境下で、 超高精密レーザー 変位計 (キ一エンス社製、 モデル LC一 2400) を用いて、 織編物試験 片の乾燥時における厚さ (TD) を測定した。 次に、 この試験片上に スポイ トで水を 1 ml滴下した後、 1分経過後に、 前記水滴下個所の 最大厚さを、 超高精密レーザー変位計 (キーエンス社製、 モデル LC - 2400) を用いて測定し、 湿潤時における厚さ (TW) と した。 そし て、 下記式から凹凸変化率を算出した。 なお、 n数は 5 としその平 均値を求めた。 The woven or knitted fabric was allowed to stand for 24 hours in an environment of temperature 20 ° C. and humidity 65% RH, and then a 30 cni × 30 cm small piece was cut from the woven or knitted fabric to prepare a test piece (n number = 5). Measure the thickness (TD) of the knitted / knitted fabric specimen when it was dried using an ultra-high precision laser displacement meter (Model LC-1400 manufactured by Kiens Co., Ltd.) in an environment with a temperature of 20 and a humidity of 65% RH. did. Then on this specimen After 1 ml of water was dropped with a spot, after 1 minute, the maximum thickness of the water drop was measured using an ultra-high precision laser displacement meter (Keyence Co., Model LC-2400). Thickness (TW). And the uneven | corrugated change rate was computed from the following formula. The number of n was 5, and the average value was obtained.
凹凸変化率 (%) = ( (TW-TD) /TD) X 100 Concavity and convexity change rate (%) = ((TW-TD) / TD) X 100
実施例 1  Example 1
固有粘度 [ 7? ] が 1.3のナイ ロン 6 と、 固有粘度 [ ] が 0.39で 2 .6モル%の 5 —ナ ト リ ウムスルフォイソフタル酸を共重合させた変 性ポリエチレンテレフ夕レー 卜とをそれぞれ 270°C、 90°Cにて溶融 し、 特開 2000— 144518号公報の図 1 に記載のものと同様のサイ ドー バイ 一サイ ド複合繊維用複合紡糸口金を用い、 それぞれ 12. Ί g Z分 の吐出量にて押し出し、 図 1の単糸横断面形状を有するサイ ドバイ サイ ド型複合繊維を形成させ、 冷却固化、 油剤を付与した後、 糸条 を速度 lOOOmZ分、 温度 60での予熱ローラ一にて予熱し、 ついで、 該予熱ローラ一と、 速度 3050mZ分、 温度 150でに加熱された加熱 ローラー間で延伸熱処理を行い、 巻取って 84dtex/24iilの複合繊 維束を得た。 この複合繊維において、 引張強さ 3.4cN/dtex、 破断 伸び率 40%であった。 また、 この複合繊維束に沸水処理を施して捲 縮を発現させ、 その捲縮率を測定した。 乾燥捲縮率 DCが 3.3%、 水 湿潤捲縮率 HCが 1.6%、 乾燥捲縮率 DCと水湿潤捲縮率 HCとの差 (DC 一 HC) が 1· 7%であった。  Nylon 6 with an intrinsic viscosity [7?] Of 1.3, and a modified polyethylene terephthalate copolymer with an intrinsic viscosity [] of 0.39 and 2.6 mol% of 5- sodium sulfoisophthalic acid copolymerized with Were melted at 270 ° C and 90 ° C, respectively, and a composite spinneret for side-by-side composite fibers similar to that shown in Fig. 1 of JP-A-2000-144518 was used. Extruded at a discharge amount of g Z min. to form a side-by-side composite fiber with a single yarn cross-sectional shape as shown in Fig. 1. After cooling, solidifying and applying oil, the yarn is fed at a speed of lOOOOmZ at a temperature of 60. A preheat roller is used for preheating, and then a heat treatment is performed between the preheating roller and a heating roller heated at a speed of 3050 mZ and at a temperature of 150, and wound to obtain a 84 dtex / 24 iil composite fiber bundle. It was. This composite fiber had a tensile strength of 3.4 cN / dtex and an elongation at break of 40%. In addition, the composite fiber bundle was subjected to boiling water treatment to develop crimp, and the crimp rate was measured. The dry crimp rate DC was 3.3%, the water wet crimp rate HC was 1.6%, and the difference between the dry crimp rate DC and the water wet crimp rate HC (DC-HC) was 1.7%.
前記未捲縮複合繊維束 (沸水処理されておらず、 捲縮は発現して いない。 無撚糸) と、 沸水収縮率が 8 %の通常のポリエチレンテレ フタ レー トマルチフィ ラメン ト糸条 (繊維 B ) 84dtexZ72filとを 2 8ゲージのダブル丸編機を使用して、 表 1 に示す編組織の丸編物を 編成した。 The uncrimped composite fiber bundle (not boiled water treated and not crimped; untwisted yarn) and ordinary polyethylene terephthalate multifilament yarn (fiber B) with a boiling water shrinkage of 8% A circular knitted fabric with the knitting structure shown in Table 1 was knitted using 84dtexZ72fil and a 28-gauge double circular knitting machine.
Figure imgf000028_0001
Figure imgf000028_0001
〔註〕  [註]
c : : シリ ンダー側  c :: Cylinder side
D : : ダイャル側  D :: Dial side
〇 : : ダイァル側 : :ッ 卜  ○:: Dial side:: 卜
X : シリ ンダー側 二ッ 卜  X : Cylinder side
¥ : : シリ ンダー側 夕ック  ¥ :: Cylinder side evening
a : 未捲縮複合繊維糸条  a: Uncrimped composite yarn
b : ポリエステルマルチフィ ラメン ト糸条 得られた丸編物を、 温度 130で、 キープ時間 15分で染色加工し、 未捲縮複合繊維糸条の潜在捲縮性能を顕在化させ、 捲縮繊維 Aとし た。 前記染色加工において、 吸水加工剤 (ポリエチレンテレフタレ 一トーポリエチレングリ コール共重合体) を染液に対して 2 ml/ 1 の割合にて、 染色加工時に同浴処理を行う ことにより、 編物に吸水 加工剤を付与した。 この丸編物に、 温度 160で、 時間 1分で乾熱フ アイナルセッ トを施した。 b: Polyester multifilament yarn The obtained circular knitted fabric was dyed and processed at a temperature of 130 at a keep time of 15 minutes to reveal the latent crimping performance of the uncrimped composite fiber yarn, and the crimped fiber A was obtained. In the dyeing process, a water-absorbing processing agent (polyethylene terephthalate-to-polyethylene glycol copolymer) is treated at the rate of 2 ml / 1 with respect to the dyeing liquid, and the same bath treatment is performed during the dyeing process, so that the knitted fabric absorbs water A processing agent was applied. The circular knitted fabric was subjected to a dry heat final set at a temperature of 160 for 1 minute.
この丸編物において、 厚み方向の断面は図 4 に示すように、 一層 ( Z層) は繊維 Bだけで構成され、 他の層 (Y層) は捲縮繊維 Aだ けで構成され、 Z層と Y層とは部分的にポリエステル繊維 B糸条に より結接されていた。  In this circular knitted fabric, the cross-section in the thickness direction is as shown in Fig. 4. One layer (Z layer) is composed only of fibers B, and the other layer (Y layer) is composed only of crimped fibers A. And Y layer were partly joined by polyester fiber B yarn.
Y層側からみた編地表面は、 図 5 に示すように Y層と Z層とが格 子状に結接されており、 水湿潤により この格子状結接部により結接 されていない四角部状部分 6 bが凸部となり凹凸が発現した。  The surface of the knitted fabric viewed from the Y layer side is a square section where the Y layer and the Z layer are connected in a lattice shape as shown in Fig. 5. The convex portion 6 b became a convex portion and unevenness was developed.
この編物において、 乾燥時と湿潤時の凹凸変化率が 15%、 ベ トツ キカカ 84ιηΝΖ (80gf) であって、 水湿潤時のべ トツキが少なく、 実用上満足なものであった。  In this knitted fabric, the unevenness change rate when dried and wet was 15%, and the stickiness was 84ιηΝΖ (80 gf), and there was little stickiness when wet with water, which was practically satisfactory.
実施例 2  Example 2
28ゲージの ト リ コッ ト編機を使用 して、 バック筏に実施例 1 で用 いたものと同じ複合繊維 (繊維 A) をフルセッ ト し、 ミ ドル筏に実 施例 1 で用いたものと同じポリエチレンテレフ夕レー トマルチフィ ラメン ト糸条 (繊維 B ) を 2 in lOoutでセッ ト し、 フロン (登録 商標) ト箴に実施例 1 で用いたものと同じポリエチレンテレフタ レ ー トマルチフィ ラメン ト糸条 (繊維 B ) を lOout 2 inにてセッ ト し、 ノ ッ ク 10— 12、 ミ ドル 10— 12— 23— 34— 45— 43— 32— 21、 フ ロ ン (登録商標) ト 45— 43— 32— 21— 10— 12— 23— 34の編組織、 機上 コース数 60コースノ 2.54cmの編条件にて ト リ コッ ト編物を編成した 。 次いで、 この編物を実施例 1 と同様に染色仕上げした。 Using a 28-gauge tricot knitting machine, fully set the same composite fiber (Fiber A) as used in Example 1 for the back 筏, and the middle 筏 used in Example 1 The same polyethylene terephthalate multifilament yarn (Fiber B) is set in 2 in lOout, and the same polyethylene terephthalate multifilament yarn used in Example 1 is used for Freon (registered trademark). (Fiber B) is set at lOout 2 in, knock 10-12, middle 10-12-12-23-45-43-32-21, front (registered trademark) 45-43 — 32— 21— 10— 12— 23— 34 knitting structure, on-machine course 60 kn . Next, this knitted fabric was dyed and finished in the same manner as in Example 1.
前記編物において、 厚さ方向の乾燥断面は、 図 6 ( A ) に示すよ うに、 捲縮繊維 Aのみから構成される部分 (Y部) と、 捲縮繊維 A と繊維 Bとで構成される部分 (X部) から構成されていた。  In the knitted fabric, the dry cross section in the thickness direction is composed of a portion (Y portion) composed only of the crimped fiber A, a crimped fiber A, and a fiber B, as shown in FIG. 6 (A). It consisted of part (X part).
編物表面は、 図 7 に示すように、 Y部はダイヤ柄状に編物全体に 連続的につながつており、 湿潤時は、 このダイヤ柄に包囲された四 角形部分 (Y部) が凸部を形成して、 凹凸が発現した。  As shown in Fig. 7, the knitted surface is continuously connected to the entire knitted fabric in a diamond pattern, and when wet, the square part (Y part) surrounded by this diamond pattern has a convex part. As a result, irregularities appeared.
この編物において、 乾燥時と湿潤時の凹凸変化率が 25 %、 ベ トツ キ力が 686mN ( 70gf ) であって湿潤時のベとつきが少なく、 実用上 満足なものであった。  In this knitted fabric, the unevenness change rate during drying and wetting was 25%, the stickiness was 686 mN (70 gf), and there was little stickiness when wet, which was practically satisfactory.
比較例 1  Comparative Example 1
実施例 1 と同様にして、 丸編物の染色加工 (吸水剤付与を含む) 製品を製造した。 但し、 ポリエチレンテレフ夕レー トマルチフイ ラ メン 卜糸条 (繊維 B ) のかわりに実施例 1 で用いたものと同じ複合 繊維を用いた。  In the same manner as in Example 1, a circular knitted product (including a water absorbing agent) product was produced. However, the same composite fiber as that used in Example 1 was used instead of the polyethylene terephthalate multifilament yarn (fiber B).
得られた編物において、 乾燥時と湿潤時の凹凸変化率が 2 %、 ベ トツキ力が 1470πιΝ ( 150gf ) であって、 湿潤時のベとつきが大きく 、 実用上不満足なものであった。 産業上の利用可能性  The obtained knitted fabric was unsatisfactory in practical use because the unevenness change rate during drying and wetting was 2% and the stickiness was 1470πιΝ (150gf), and the stickiness during wetting was large. Industrial applicability
本発明によれば、 湿潤時に織編物表面に凹凸が可逆的に発現し、 一方乾燥時に凹凸が減少する織編物、 及びこの織編物を用いたァゥ 夕一ウェア一、 イ ンナーウェァー、 スポーツウエア一などの繊維製 品が得られ、 これらを着用すると発汗時の肌と衣服とのべ トツキを 低減することができる。  According to the present invention, unevenness is reversibly developed on the surface of the woven or knitted fabric when wet, and the woven or knitted fabric in which the unevenness is reduced when dried, and the wear, inner wear, sports wear using the woven or knitted fabric, and the like. When these are used, the stickiness between the skin and clothes when sweating can be reduced.

Claims

1 . 水による湿潤によって捲縮率が低下する捲縮繊維 (A ) を含 む糸条、 並びに非捲縮繊維及び水による湿潤により捲縮率が実質的 に変化しない捲縮繊維から選ばれた少なく とも 1種類からなる繊維 Bを含む糸条を含む織編物であって、 1. Selected from yarns containing crimped fibers (A) whose crimping rate decreases by wetting with water, non-crimped fibers and crimped fibers whose crimping rate does not change substantially by wetting with water A woven or knitted fabric including a yarn containing at least one type of fiber B,
 Contract
前記織編物を、 温度 20で及び湿度 65 % RHの環境下に 24時間放置し た後の当該織編物の厚さ TD、 並びに、 前記織編物上に、 1 m lの水を 滴下し、 1分間経過した後の当該織編物の水湿潤された部分の最大 厚さ TWから、 下記式により算出される凹凸変化率 :  The woven or knitted fabric was allowed to stand for 24 hours in an environment of a temperature of 20 and a humidity of 65% RH. The thickness TD of the woven or knitted fabric after being left for 24 hours, and 1 ml of water were dropped on the woven or knitted fabric for 1 minute. From the maximum thickness TW of the water-wet part of the woven or knitted fabric after elapse of time, the unevenness change rate calculated by the following formula:
凹凸変化率 (%) = ( ( TW - TD囲) / TD) X 100 が、 5 %以上であることを特徴とする、 水湿潤により凹凸が発現す る捲縮繊維含有織編物。  Unevenness change rate (%) = ((TW-TD range) / TD) X 100 is 5% or more, a crimped fiber-containing woven or knitted fabric that exhibits unevenness due to water wetting.
2 . 前記捲縮繊維 Aが、 給水 · 自己伸長性において互に異なり、 かつ、 サイ ド一バイ 一サイ ド型に接合されているポリエステル繊維 樹脂成分とポリ アミ ド樹脂成分とからなり、 かつ、 その潜在捲縮性 能を発現させることによって形成された捲縮を有する捲縮複合繊維 から選ばれる、 請求の範囲第 1項に記載の水湿潤により凹凸が発現 する捲縮繊維含有織編物。  2. The crimped fiber A is composed of a polyester fiber resin component and a polyamide resin component, which are different from each other in water supply and self-extension properties, and are bonded in a side-by-side type, and The crimped fiber-containing woven or knitted fabric that exhibits unevenness by water wetting according to claim 1, which is selected from crimped composite fibers having crimps formed by expressing the latent crimping performance.
3 . 前記ポリエステル繊維樹脂成分が、 酸成分の含有量を基本と して、 2. 0〜4. 5モル%の 5 —ナ ト リ ウムスルホイソフ夕ル酸が、 I. 0〜4. 5モル%共重合された変性ポリエチレンテレフ夕レー ト樹脂か らなる、 請求の範囲第 2項に記載の水湿潤により凹凸が発現する捲 縮繊維含有織編物。  3. The polyester fiber resin component is based on the content of the acid component, and 2.0 to 4.5 mol% of 5-sodiumsulfosulfuric acid is I.0 to 4.5 mol%. 3. A crimped fiber-containing woven or knitted fabric that is made of a copolymerized modified polyethylene terephthalate resin and exhibits irregularities when wetted with water according to claim 2.
4 . 前記捲縮繊維 Aを含む糸条が、 O 〜 300 T / mの燃り数を有 する、 請求の範囲第 1項に記載の水湿潤により凹凸が発現する捲縮 繊維含有織編物。 4. The crimped fiber-containing woven or knitted fabric that exhibits unevenness by water wetting according to claim 1, wherein the yarn containing the crimped fiber A has a burn number of O to 300 T / m.
5 . 前記繊維 Bが ポリエステル樹脂により形成されている、 請 求の範囲第 1 項に記載の水湿潤により凹凸が発現する捲縮繊維含有 織編物。 5. The crimped fiber-containing woven or knitted fabric in which the fiber B is formed of a polyester resin, and unevenness is manifested by water wetting according to the first aspect of the request.
6 . 前記織編物が 前記捲縮繊維 Aのみにより構成されている 1 個以上の部分 Yと、 前 el繊維 ( B ) のみにより構成されている 1個 以上の部分 Z とを有し HIJ記 Z部分が HIJ 己織編物の経及び緯方向 から選ばれた少なく と ¾ 1方向 、 或はコース及びゥエール方向から 選ばれた少な < とも 1方向に、 連続して形成されている、 請求の範 囲第 1 項に記載の水湿潤によつて凹凸を発現する捲縮繊維含有織編 物。  6. The woven or knitted fabric has one or more portions Y composed only of the crimped fibers A and one or more portions Z composed only of the front el fibers (B). The part is formed continuously in at least ¾ 1 direction selected from the warp and weft direction of the HIJ self-woven knit, or in at least <1 direction selected from the course and wale direction. A crimped fiber-containing woven or knitted fabric that exhibits irregularities when wetted with water as described in item 1.
7 . 前記織編物が、 前記繊維 Bのみで構成されている 1個以上の 部分 Z と、 前記繊維 (A ) と、 前記繊維 Bとにより構成されている 7. The woven or knitted fabric is composed of one or more portions Z composed only of the fibers B, the fibers (A), and the fibers B.
1個以上の部分 Xとを有し、 前記 Z部分が、 前記織編物の経及び緯 方向から選ばれた少なく とも 1方向、 或はコース及びゥエール方向 から選ばれた少なく とも 1方向に、 連続して形成されている、 請求 の範囲第 1項に記載の水湿潤によって凹凸を発現する捲縮繊維含有 織編物。 And at least one direction selected from the warp and weft directions of the knitted or knitted fabric, or at least one direction selected from the course and wale directions. The crimped fiber-containing woven or knitted fabric that is formed as described in claim 1 and that exhibits irregularities by water wetting.
8 . 前記織編物が、 前記捲縮繊維 A及び前記繊維 Bとにより構成 される少なく とも 1個の部分 Xと、 前記捲縮繊維 Aのみにより構成 される少なく とも 1個の部分 Yとを有し、 前記 X部分が前記織編物 の経及び緯方向から選ばれた少なく とも 1方向、 或はコース及びゥ エール方向から選ばれた少なく とも 1方向に、 連続して形成されて いる、 請求の範囲第 1 項に記載の水湿潤によって凹.凸を発現する捲 縮繊維含有織編物。  8. The woven or knitted fabric has at least one portion X composed of the crimped fiber A and the fiber B and at least one portion Y composed only of the crimped fiber A. The X portion is continuously formed in at least one direction selected from the warp and weft directions of the woven or knitted fabric, or at least one direction selected from the course and wale directions. A woven or knitted fabric containing crimped fibers that develops concave and convex shapes by water wetting as set forth in item 1 of the range.
9 . 前記織編物が、 前記捲縮繊維 A及び前記繊維 Bとにより構成 されている少なく とも 1個の部分 Xと、 前記捲縮繊維 Aのみで構成 された少なく とも 1個の部分 Yと、 前記繊維 Bのみにより形成され た少なく とも 1個の部分 z とを有し、 前記 Z部分が、 前記織編物の 経及び緯方向から選ばれた少なく とも 1方向、 或はコース及びゥェ ール方向から選ばれた少なく とも 1方向に、 連続して形成されてい る、 請求の範囲第 1項に記載の水湿潤により凹凸を発現する捲縮繊 維含有織編物。 9. The woven or knitted fabric has at least one portion X composed of the crimped fibers A and the fibers B, and at least one portion Y composed only of the crimped fibers A; Formed only by the fiber B At least one portion z, and the Z portion is at least one direction selected from the warp and weft directions of the woven or knitted fabric, or at least selected from the course and wale directions. 2. The crimped fiber-containing woven or knitted fabric that is formed continuously in one direction and that exhibits irregularities by water wetting according to claim 1.
10. 前記織編物が、 2層以上の多層織編構造を有し、 前記多層構 造中の少なく とも 1 層が、 前記捲縮繊維 A及び繊維 Bとから構成さ れ、 他の少なく とも 1 層が、 前記繊維 Bのみから構成され、 前記繊 維 A及び B含有層と前記繊維 B含有層とが、 部分的に互に結接され ている、 請求の範囲第 1項に記載の水湿潤により凹凸を発現する捲 縮繊維含有織編物。 ,  10. The knitted or knitted fabric has a multilayer woven or knitted structure of two or more layers, and at least one layer in the multilayered structure is composed of the crimped fibers A and fibers B, and the other at least 1 The water wetting according to claim 1, wherein the layer is composed of only the fiber B, and the fiber A and B-containing layer and the fiber B-containing layer are partially connected to each other. A woven or knitted fabric containing crimped fibers that exhibits unevenness due to the above. ,
1 1 . 前記織編物が、 2層以上の多層織編構造を有し、 前記多層構 造中の少なく とも 1 層が、 前記捲縮繊維 A及び繊維 Bにより構成さ れ、 他の少なく とも 1 層が、 前記捲縮繊維 Aのみから構成され、 前 記繊維 A及び B含有層及び前記捲縮繊維含有層とが、 部分的に、 互 に結接されている、 請求の範囲第 1項に記載の水湿潤により 凹凸を 発現する捲縮繊維含有織編物。  1 1. The woven or knitted fabric has a multilayer woven or knitted structure of two or more layers, and at least one layer in the multilayer structure is constituted by the crimped fibers A and fibers B, and the other at least 1 The layer according to claim 1, wherein the layer is composed of only the crimped fiber A, and the fibers A and B-containing layer and the crimped fiber-containing layer are partially connected to each other. A crimped fiber-containing woven or knitted fabric that exhibits unevenness by water-wetting as described.
12. 前記織編物が、 2層以上の多層織編構造を有し、 前記多層構 造中の少なく とも 1 層が、 前記捲縮繊維 Aのみから構成され、 他の 少なく とも 1 層が、 前記捲縮繊維 Bのみから構成され、 前記捲縮繊 維含有層と前記繊維 B含有層とが、 部分的に、 互に結接されている 、 請求の範囲第 1項に記載の水湿潤により凹凸を発現する捲縮繊維 含有織編物。  12. The woven or knitted fabric has a multilayer woven or knitted structure of two or more layers, and at least one layer in the multilayer structure is composed of only the crimped fibers A, and at least one other layer is the The water-wetting according to claim 1, wherein the crimped fiber B is composed only of the crimped fiber B, and the crimped fiber-containing layer and the fiber B-containing layer are partially connected to each other. A woven or knitted fabric containing crimped fibers.
13. 請求の範囲第 1〜 12項のいずれか 1項に記載の水による湿潤 により凹凸が発現する捲縮繊維含有織編物を製造する方法であって 、 熱処理を施すことによって捲縮を発現し、 かっ この捲縮が、 水に より湿潤されたときに、 その捲縮率を低下する特性を有する、 捲縮 繊維 Aを形成するための繊維と、 前記熱処理によって捲縮を発現し ない繊維及び、 前記熱処理によって捲縮を発現するが、 その捲縮は 、 水による湿潤によりその捲縮率を実質上低下しない物性を有する 繊維から選ばれた少なく とも 1種の繊維 Bを形成をするための繊維 とから前駆織編物を製造する工程と、 この前駆織編物に熱処理を施 して, 前記捲縮繊維 A及び繊維 Bを含む織編物を形成する工程とを 含むことを特徴とする捲縮繊維含有織編物の製造方法。 13. A method for producing a crimped fiber-containing woven or knitted fabric in which unevenness is manifested by wetting with water according to any one of claims 1 to 12, wherein the crimp is expressed by heat treatment. This crimp has the property of reducing its crimp rate when wetted with water. The fiber for forming the fiber A, the fiber that does not express crimp by the heat treatment, and the crimp that expresses crimp by the heat treatment, but the crimp does not substantially reduce the crimp rate by wetting with water. A step of producing a precursor knitted fabric from fibers for forming at least one kind of fiber B selected from fibers having physical properties, and subjecting the precursor knitted fabric to a heat treatment, the crimped fibers A and And a step of forming a woven or knitted fabric containing the fiber B.
14. 前記捲縮繊維 A形成用繊維が、 吸水 · 自己伸長性において、 互に異なり、 かつサイ ドーバイ一サイ ド型に接合されたポリエステ ル樹脂成分と、 ポリ アミ ド樹脂成分とからなる未捲縮複合繊維から 選ばれる、 請求項 13に記載の捲縮繊維含有織編物の製造方法。  14. The crimped fiber A-forming fiber is different from each other in water absorption and self-extension properties, and comprises a polyester resin component bonded in a side-by-side type and a polyamide resin component. The method for producing a crimped fiber-containing woven or knitted fabric according to claim 13, which is selected from crimped composite fibers.
15. 前記未捲縮複合繊維中のポリエステル樹脂成分が、 0. 30〜0. 43の固有粘度を有するポリエステル樹脂を含み、 前記ポリアミ ド樹 脂成分が、 1. 0〜1. 4の固有粘度を有するポリ アミ ド樹脂を含む、 請 求項 14に記載の捲縮繊維含有織編物の製造方法。  15. The polyester resin component in the uncrimped conjugate fiber includes a polyester resin having an intrinsic viscosity of 0.30 to 0.43, and the polyamide resin component is 1.0 to 1.4 of an intrinsic viscosity. 15. A method for producing a crimped fiber-containing woven or knitted fabric according to claim 14, comprising a polyamide resin having the following characteristics.
16. 前記未捲縮複合繊維が、 沸騰水中において捲縮発現処理を施 された後、  16. After the uncrimped composite fiber has been crimped in boiling water,
( 1 ) 温度 20°C、 湿度 65 % RHの環境下に 24時間放置した後に 1. 5〜 1 3 %の範囲内にある捲縮率 DCを有し、  (1) After standing for 24 hours in an environment of temperature 20 ° C and humidity 65% RH, it has a crimping ratio DC in the range of 1.5 to 13%,
( 2 ) 温度 20°Cの水中に 2時間浸漬した直後に、 0. 5〜7. 0 %の範囲 内にある捲縮率 HCを有し、 かつ  (2) Immediately after being immersed in water at a temperature of 20 ° C. for 2 hours, it has a crimp ratio HC in the range of 0.5 to 7.0%, and
( 3 ) 前記乾燥捲縮率 DCと水湿潤捲縮率 HCとの差 (DC— HC) 力 0. 5 %以上である、  (3) The difference between the dry crimp rate DC and the water wet crimp rate HC (DC—HC) force is 0.5% or more.
請求の範囲第 13項に記載の捲縮繊維含有織編物の製造方法。 A method for producing a crimped fiber-containing woven or knitted fabric according to claim 13.
17. 請求の範囲第 1 〜 12項のいずれか 1項に記載の捲縮繊維含有 織編物を含む繊維製品。  17. A textile product comprising the crimped fiber-containing woven or knitted fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 12.
18. アウター用衣料、 スポーツ用衣料及びイ ンナー用衣料から選 ばれる請求の範囲第 17項に記載の繊維製品 18. Choose from outer clothing, sports clothing and inner clothing The textile product according to claim 17
PCT/JP2005/019245 2004-10-15 2005-10-13 Woven/knit fabric including crimped fiber and becoming rugged upon humidification, process for producing the same, and textile product WO2006041200A1 (en)

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CA 2579211 CA2579211C (en) 2004-10-15 2005-10-13 Crimped filament-containing woven or knitted fabric manifesting roughness upon wetting with water, process for producing the same and textile products made therefrom
CN2005800351613A CN101040076B (en) 2004-10-15 2005-10-13 Woven/knit fabric including crimped fiber and becoming rugged upon humidification, process for producing the same, and textile product
KR1020077008208A KR101220720B1 (en) 2004-10-15 2005-10-13 Woven/knit fabric including crimped fiber and becoming rugged upon humidification, process for producing the same, and textile product
US11/665,349 US20070270067A1 (en) 2004-10-15 2005-10-13 Crimped Filament-Containing Woven or Knitted Fabric Manifesting Roughness Upon Wetting with Water, Process for Producing the Same and Textile Products Made Therefrom

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