JP2006112009A - Woven or knit fabric developing unevenness by wetting, method for producing the same and textile product - Google Patents

Abstract

<P>PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To provide a woven or knit fabric reversibly developing unevenness on the surface of the fabric by wetting and decreasing the unevenness in dried state and provide a method for producing the fabric and a textile product. <P>SOLUTION: The woven or knit fabric developing unevenness by wetting contains a crimped fiber A lowering the crimp percent in wet state and a non-crimped fiber or a crimped fiber B essentially free from the change of the crimp percent by wetting. The woven or knit fabric has an unevenness variation rate defined by ((TW-TD)/TD)×100 of ≥5% wherein TD is the thickness of the fabric in dried state and TW is the thickness in wet state. <P>COPYRIGHT: (C)2006,JPO&NCIPI

Description

  The present invention relates to a woven or knitted fabric comprising a crimped fiber whose crimp rate decreases when wet and a fiber having crimps that do not substantially change crimp rate when non-crimped or wet. The present invention relates to a woven or knitted fabric, a method for producing the same, and a textile product, which can reduce the stickiness between the skin and clothes during sweating by providing unevenness on the surface and reducing the unevenness during drying.

  Conventionally, when a woven or knitted fabric made of synthetic fiber or natural fiber is used as sportswear or innerwear, there has been a problem that stuffiness or stickiness is generated due to sweating from the skin.

  Especially for vaporous sweat in the early stages of sweating, a method that uses highly hygroscopic fibers as a material that constitutes clothing or a method that increases the air permeability by revealing the structure of the woven or knitted fabric that constitutes clothing is commonly used. It has been broken.

  On the other hand, for liquid sweat in the middle to late periods of sweating, a method of providing a density difference between the outer layer and the inner layer (skin side) in a multilayered woven or knitted fabric and quickly transferring the sweat absorbed on the skin side to the outside (for example, patents) Reference 1), and a method of reducing unevenness by providing unevenness on the skin side surface of the knitted or knitted fabric constituting the garment to reduce the contact area between the skin and the garment (for example, see Patent Document 2 and Patent Document 3). Has been proposed. However, the former has a problem that when the sweating exceeds the saturated water absorption amount of the clothes, the sweat also remains on the side of the skin, and as a result, the clothes are sticky to the skin. For the latter, as the amount of sweat increases, the amount of unevenness becomes insufficient, and the clothes become sticky to the skin. To avoid this, increasing the amount of unevenness increases the moisture content of the woven or knitted fabric, which in turn increases the heat retention. There is a problem that the uneven convex part rubs against the skin and is uncomfortable, and the convex part is easily caught on the skin and is prone to pilling.

For these reasons, there has been a demand for a knitted or knitted fabric proposal that can reduce stickiness by reversibly expressing irregularities on the surface of the woven or knitted fabric when wet.
In addition, the present inventors have previously proposed a woven or knitted fabric in which unevenness is developed by wetting using a water-absorbing self-stretching yarn in Japanese Patent Application No. 2003-404302.

JP-A-9-316757 Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 10-131000 JP-A-9-324313

  The present invention has been made in view of the above-described background, and the object thereof is to provide a crimped fiber whose crimp rate is reduced when wet and a crimp whose crimp rate is not substantially changed when non-crimped or wet. An object of the present invention is to provide a woven or knitted fabric containing fibers, a knitted or knitted fabric that can reversibly exhibit unevenness on the surface of the woven or knitted fabric when wet, and reduce stickiness, a manufacturing method thereof, and a fiber product.

  As a result of intensive studies to achieve the above-mentioned problems, the present inventors have found that the crimped fiber has a crimp rate that decreases when wet, and a fiber that has a crimp that does not change substantially when crimped or non-crimped. And knitting the knitted and knitted fabrics with a specific yarn arrangement, it was found that a desired woven and knitted fabric can be obtained, and the present invention was completed by further intensive studies.

Thus, according to the present invention, “a knitted or knitted fabric comprising a crimped fiber A that has a reduced crimp rate when wet and a fiber B that has non-crimped or crimped fibers that do not substantially change the crimp rate when wet. The weaving that exhibits unevenness by wetting, characterized in that the unevenness change rate calculated by the following formula is 5% or more from the thickness (TD) at the time of drying and the thickness (TW) at the time of wetting of the woven or knitted fabric Knitted. "Is provided.
Concavity and convexity change rate (%) = ((TW−TD) / TD) × 100
However, the thickness at the time of drying is the thickness of the woven or knitted fabric after leaving the woven or knitted fabric for 24 hours in a temperature of 20 ° C. and a humidity of 65% RH. This is the maximum thickness of the dripping portion after 1 minute has elapsed after 1 cc of water is dropped on the knitted fabric.

  Here, it is preferable that the crimped fiber A is a composite fiber in which a polyester component and a polyamide component are joined in a side-by-side manner, and a crimped fiber having a crimped structure in which latent crimping performance is expressed. . In that case, it is preferable that the polyester component is a modified polyethylene terephthalate copolymerized with 2.0 to 4.5 mol% of 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid. The crimped fiber A is preferably a non-twisted yarn or a sweet twisted yarn subjected to a twist of 300 T / m or less. One fiber B is preferably a polyester fiber.

  As an embodiment of the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention, it has (1) a part (Y part) composed only of the crimped fibers A and a part (Z part) composed only of the fibers B, Woven knitted fabric in which the Z portion is continuously connected in the warp direction and / or the weft direction, (2) a portion (Z portion) composed only of the fiber B, and the crimped fiber A and the fiber B A woven or knitted fabric in which the Z portion is continuously connected in the warp direction and / or the weft direction, and (3) the crimped fiber A and the fiber B. A woven fabric having a portion (X portion) and a portion (Y portion) composed only of the crimped fibers A, and in the woven or knitted fabric, the X portion is continuously connected in the warp direction and / or the weft direction. A knitted fabric, (4) a portion (X portion) composed of the crimped fiber A and the fiber B, and the crimped fiber A alone A woven or knitted fabric having a portion (Y portion) and a portion (Z portion) composed only of the fibers B, wherein the Z portion is continuously connected in the warp direction and / or the weft direction, (5) The woven or knitted fabric is a multilayer woven or knitted fabric comprising two or more layers, and has a layer composed of the crimped fibers A and fibers B, a layer composed of only the fibers B, and the former layer and the latter A woven or knitted fabric in which the layers are partially connected, (6) a multilayer woven or knitted fabric in which the woven or knitted fabric is composed of two or more layers, a layer composed of the crimped fibers A and fibers B, and the crimped fibers A woven or knitted fabric having a layer composed only of A and in which the former layer and the latter layer are partially joined; and (7) a multilayer woven or knitted fabric comprising two or more woven or knitted fabrics, It has a layer composed only of the compressed fibers A and a layer composed only of the fibers B, and the former layer and the latter layer are partially connected. Knitting, and the like are exemplified.

  The woven or knitted fabric of the present invention is “a composite fiber obtained by melt spinning into a side-by-side type using a polyester having an intrinsic viscosity of 0.30 to 0.43 and a polyamide having an intrinsic viscosity of 1.0 to 1.4. And woven / knitted fabric using fibers B having crimps that do not substantially change the crimp rate when not crimped or wet, and then subjecting the woven / knitted fabric to a heat treatment by subjecting the fabric to heat treatment. A method for producing a knitted or knitted fabric in which unevenness is developed by wetting, characterized by expressing shrinkage.

At that time, it is preferable that the composite fiber used for knitting satisfies the following requirements (1) to (3) simultaneously after the boiling water treatment.
(1) The crimp rate DC of the composite fiber at the time of drying is in the range of 1.5 to 13%.
(2) The crimp ratio HC of the composite fiber when wet is in the range of 0.5 to 7.0%.
(3) The difference (DC-HC) between the crimp rate DC and the crimp rate HC is 0.5% or more.
However, when dry, the sample is left in a 20 ° C., 65% RH environment for 24 hours, while when wet, the sample is immediately immersed in water at 20 ° C. for 2 hours. It is a state.

  The woven or knitted fabric of the present invention can be suitably used for textile products such as outer clothing, sports clothing, and inner clothing.

  According to the present invention, there is provided a woven or knitted fabric including a crimped fiber whose crimp rate decreases when wet and a fiber having a crimp that does not substantially change crimp rate when not crimped or wet. Unevenness is reversibly developed on the surface of the woven or knitted fabric, and a woven or knitted fabric that can reduce stickiness, a manufacturing method thereof, and a fiber product are obtained.

Hereinafter, embodiments of the present invention will be described in detail.
The woven or knitted fabric of the present invention has a crimped fiber A (hereinafter, also simply referred to as “crimped fiber A”) that has a reduced crimp rate when wet, and a substantially reduced crimp rate when not crimped or wet. It is necessary to be composed of fibers B having crimps that do not change (hereinafter, also simply referred to as “fibers B”). Only the fiber A is stretched due to a decrease in the amount of crimp. As a result, irregularities appear reversibly on the surface of the woven or knitted fabric when wet.

At that time, when the unevenness change rate is calculated from the thickness (TD) when the woven or knitted fabric is dried and the thickness (TW) when wet, the unevenness change rate is 5% or more (preferably 10 to 100). %) Is important. If the difference in the unevenness change rate is less than 5%, the stickiness cannot be sufficiently reduced when wet, which is not preferable.
Concavity and convexity change rate (%) = ((TW−TD) / TD) × 100
However, the thickness at the time of drying is the thickness after leaving the woven or knitted fabric for 24 hours in an environment of temperature 20 ° C. and humidity 65% RH, while the thickness at the time of wetting is a dropper on the woven or knitted fabric. 1 cc of water and the maximum thickness of the dropping portion after one minute has elapsed. These thicknesses are measured using, for example, an ultra-high precision laser displacement meter (Model LC-2400, manufactured by Keyence Corporation). be able to.

  It is important that the crimped fiber A has a difference (DC-HC) between the crimp rate DC during drying and the crimp rate HC during wetness of 0.5% or more. Is a composite fiber in which a polyester component and a polyamide component are bonded in a side-by-side manner, and is preferably a crimped fiber having a crimped structure in which latent crimping performance is expressed.

  Here, as the polyester component, a compound having one or more functional groups having an alkali or alkaline earth metal or phosphonium salt of sulfonic acid and having an ester forming ability in terms of adhesiveness to the other polyamide component. Preferred examples thereof include modified polyesters such as polyethylene terephthalate, polypropylene terephthalate, and polybutylene terephthalate. Among these, modified polyethylene terephthalate obtained by copolymerizing the above compound is particularly preferable from the viewpoint of versatility and polymer cost. In this case, examples of the copolymer component include 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid and ester derivatives thereof, 5-phosphonium isophthalic acid and ester derivatives thereof, and sodium p-hydroxybenzenesulfonate. Of these, 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid is preferable. As a copolymerization amount, the range of 2.0-4.5 mol% is preferable. When the copolymerization amount is less than 2.0 mol%, although excellent crimping performance can be obtained, there is a possibility that peeling occurs at the bonding interface between the polyamide component and the polyester component. On the other hand, if the copolymerization amount is greater than 4.5 mol%, the crystallization of the polyester component becomes difficult to proceed during the stretching heat treatment, and thus it is necessary to raise the stretching heat treatment temperature. There is a risk.

  One polyamide component is not particularly limited as long as it has an amide bond in the main chain, and examples thereof include nylon-4, nylon-6, nylon-66, nylon-46, nylon-12, and the like. can give. Among these, nylon-6 and nylon-66 are preferable in terms of versatility, polymer cost, and yarn production stability.

  The polyester component and the polyamide component include known additives such as pigments, pigments, matting agents, antifouling agents, fluorescent whitening agents, flame retardants, stabilizers, antistatic agents, light-resistant agents, and ultraviolet absorption agents. An agent or the like may be included.

  The composite fiber joined to the side-by-side type can take any cross-sectional shape and composite form. FIG. 1 illustrates an enlarged cross-sectional view of a composite fiber bonded to a side-by-side type that can be used in the present invention. Usually, a composite fiber having a cross section like (A) or (B) is used, but an eccentric core-sheath type like (C) may be used. Furthermore, you may have a hollow part in the triangle, the square, and the cross section. Of these, the round shape as shown in FIG. Although the composite ratio of both components can be selected arbitrarily, it is usually in the range of 30:70 to 70:30 (more preferably 40:60 to 60:40) by weight ratio of the polyester component and the polyamide component. It is preferable.

  Although the single yarn fineness and the number of single yarns (number of filaments) of the crimped fiber A are not particularly limited, the single yarn fineness is 1 to 10 dtex (more preferably 2 to 5 dtex), and the number of single yarns is 10 to 200 (more preferably 20 to 20). 100) is preferable.

  Thus, a composite fiber in which different types of polymers are joined in a side-by-side manner usually has a latent crimping performance, and the latent crimping performance is manifested when subjected to heat treatment such as dyeing as described later. As the crimped structure, it is preferable that the polyamide component is located inside the crimp and the polyester component is located outside the crimp. The composite fiber having such a crimped structure can be easily obtained by the production method described later. When the crimped fiber A has such a crimped structure, the inner polyamide component swells and stretches when wet, and the outer polyester component hardly changes in length, so that the crimp rate decreases. (The apparent length of the crimped fiber A becomes longer.) On the other hand, at the time of drying, the inner polyamide component shrinks and the outer polyester component hardly changes in length, so that the crimp rate increases (the apparent length of the crimped fiber A becomes shorter).

  The crimped fiber A is preferably a non-twisted yarn or a sweet twisted yarn subjected to a twist of 300 T / m or less in order to easily reduce the crimp rate when wet. In particular, non-twisted yarn is preferable. When a strong twist is imparted like a strong twisted yarn, the crimping rate is difficult to decrease when wet, which is not preferable. It should be noted that interlaced air processing and / or normal false twist crimping may be performed so that the number of entanglements is about 20 to 60 pieces / m.

  On the other hand, as the fiber B having a crimp that does not substantially change the crimp rate when not crimped or wet, the fiber B may be a non-crimped fiber or a fiber having a crimp that does not substantially change when wet. There is no particular limitation. Here, “the crimping rate does not change substantially when wet” means that the difference (DC−HC) between the crimping rate DC during drying and the crimping rate HC when wet is less than 0.5%. Say.

  Examples of such fibers B include polyesters such as polyethylene terephthalate, polytrimethylene terephthalate, polybutylene terephthalate, polyamides such as nylon 6 and nylon 66, polyolefins such as polyethylene and polypropylene, acrylic, para-type or meta-type aramids, and the like. Any fiber suitable for clothing such as modified synthetic fiber, natural fiber, regenerated fiber, semi-synthetic fiber, polyurethane elastic yarn, polyether ester elastic yarn can be freely selected. Among these, polyethylene terephthalate, polypropylene terephthalate, polybutylene terephthalate, and the like in terms of dimensional stability when wet and compatibility with the crimped fiber A (mixing property, knitting / weaving property, dyeability) Polyester fibers made of a modified polyester obtained by copolymerizing the above copolymerizable components are preferred. In addition, the single yarn fineness and the number of single yarns (number of filaments) of the fiber B are not particularly limited, but the single yarn fineness is 0.1 to 5 dtex in order to increase the water absorption of the woven or knitted fabric and to express unevenness when wet. (More preferably 0.5 to 2 dtex) and the number of single yarns 20 to 200 (more preferably 30 to 100) are preferable. It should be noted that interlaced air processing and / or normal false twist crimping may be performed so that the number of entanglements is about 20 to 60 pieces / m.

  The woven or knitted fabric of the present invention includes the above-described crimped fiber A having a reduced crimp rate when wet and fiber B having a crimp that does not substantially change the crimp rate when not crimped or wet.

  As the structure of the woven or knitted fabric, the woven or knitted structure and the number of layers are not particularly limited. For example, woven structures such as plain weave, twill weave, and satin, and knitted structures such as tenshi, smooth, milling, kanoko, knitting yarn, denby, and half are preferably exemplified, but not limited thereto. The number of layers may be a single layer or a multilayer of two or more layers.

  Here, the reason why unevenness appears in the woven or knitted fabric by wetting is that the woven or knitted fabric is composed of a portion that undergoes dimensional change (expansion) due to wetting and a portion that does not undergo dimensional change even when moistened or has a small amount of dimensional change. This is because the latter does not change in size or the amount of dimensional change is small, and the former develops unevenness as a convex portion when wet. It is important to arrange the contracted fibers A and B appropriately.

  A preferred embodiment of the arrangement of the crimped fibers A and fibers B contained in the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention will be described below.

  First, in the embodiment (1), it has a part (Y part) composed only of the crimped fiber A and a part (Z part) composed only of the fiber B, and the Z part is / Or connected continuously in the weft direction.

  In such a structure, the dimensional change of the entire woven or knitted fabric is suppressed because the Y portion is more susceptible to dimensional change when wet than the Z portion, and the Z portion is continuously connected in the warp direction and / or the weft direction in the woven or knitted fabric. As a result, the Y portion becomes a convex portion, and irregularities appear.

  At this time, the pattern in which the Z portion is continuously connected in the longitudinal direction and / or the weft direction is not particularly limited. For example, a border pattern, a stripe pattern, a lattice pattern, a diagram pattern pattern schematically shown in FIG. A lattice pattern or the like is exemplified.

  The area ratio between the Z part and the Y part is not particularly limited, but is 10:90 to 90:10 (more preferably 20:80 to 80) in terms of dimensional stability of the woven or knitted fabric (Z part: Y part). : Within 20).

The Y parts are disconnected by the Z part in the woven or knitted fabric. At that time, the area of one Y portion is not particularly limited, but it is within the range of 0.01 to 4.0 cm ² (more preferably 0.1 to 1.0 cm ² ), so that clothes and skin are sweated. It is preferable in preventing stickiness. On the other hand, the line width of the Z portion is preferably in the range of 0.5 to 100 mm.

  Next, in embodiment (2), it has a part (Z part) composed only of the fiber B, and a part (X part) composed of the crimped fiber A and the fiber B, and the Z The parts are continuously connected in the warp direction and / or the weft direction.

  In such a structure, the dimensional change of the entire woven or knitted fabric can be suppressed because the X portion is more susceptible to dimensional change when wet than the Z portion, and the Z portion is continuously connected in the warp direction and / or the weft direction in the woven or knitted fabric. As a result, the X portion becomes a convex portion, and irregularities appear. In that case, the pattern which connects Z part, and the area ratio of both may be comparable as embodiment (1).

  Next, in the embodiment (3), it has a portion (X portion) composed of the crimped fiber A and the fiber B, and a portion (Y portion) composed only of the crimped fiber A, In the woven or knitted fabric, the portion X is continuously connected in the warp direction and / or the weft direction.

  In such a structure, the dimensional change of the entire woven or knitted fabric can be suppressed because the Y portion is more susceptible to dimensional change when wet than the X portion, and the X portion is continuously connected in the warp direction and / or the weft direction in the woven or knitted fabric. As a result, the Y portion becomes a convex portion, and irregularities appear. In that case, the pattern which X part connects, and the area ratio of both may be comparable as embodiment (1).

  Next, in the embodiment (4), the woven or knitted fabric is a portion (X portion) composed of the crimped fiber A and the fiber B, and a portion (Y portion) composed only of the crimped fiber A. And a portion (Z portion) composed only of the fiber B, and the Z portion is continuously connected in the warp direction and / or the weft direction.

  In such a structure, the Z portion is less susceptible to dimensional changes when wet compared to other portions (X portion or Y portion), and the Z portion is continuously connected in the warp and / or weft directions in the woven or knitted fabric. The dimensional change of the entire knitted fabric is suppressed, and as a result, the other part (X part or Y part) becomes a convex part and unevenness appears. In that case, the pattern which connects Z part, and the area ratio of Z part and other parts may be comparable as embodiment (1).

Next, in the embodiment (5), the woven or knitted fabric is a multilayer woven or knitted fabric composed of two or more layers, and is composed of a layer (X layer) composed of the crimped fibers A and fibers B and the fibers B alone. The former layer and the latter layer are partially connected.
In such a structure, the X layer has a larger dimensional change due to wetting than the Z layer, and the portion of the X layer that is not connected to the Z layer becomes a convex portion, and unevenness appears.

Next, in the embodiment (6), the woven or knitted fabric is a multilayer woven or knitted fabric composed of two or more layers, a layer (X layer) composed of the crimped fibers A and fibers B, and the crimped fibers A only. And the X layer and the Y layer are partially connected to each other.
In such a structure, the Y layer has a larger dimensional change due to wetting than the X layer, and a portion of the Y layer that is not connected to the X layer becomes a convex portion, and irregularities appear.

Next, in the embodiment (7), the woven or knitted fabric is a multilayer woven or knitted fabric composed of two or more layers, and includes a layer composed only of the crimped fibers A (Y layer) and only the fibers B (Z layer). The Y layer and the Z layer are partially connected.
In such a structure, the dimensional change due to wetting of the Y layer is larger than that of the Z layer, and the portion of the Y layer that is not connected to the Z layer becomes a convex portion, and irregularities appear.

The woven or knitted fabric of the present invention can be easily obtained, for example, by the following production method.
First, a polyester having an intrinsic viscosity of 0.30 to 0.43 (measured at 35 ° C. using orthochlorophenol as a solvent) and an intrinsic viscosity of 1.0 to 1.4 (measured at 30 ° C. using m-cresol as a solvent) The composite spinning is performed into a side-by-side type using a polyamide. At that time, it is particularly important that the intrinsic viscosity of the polyester component is 0.43 or less. If the intrinsic viscosity of the polyester component is larger than 0.43, the viscosity of the polyester component increases, so that the physical properties of the composite fiber are close to those of a single polyester yarn, and the woven or knitted fabric intended by the present invention cannot be obtained. On the other hand, if the intrinsic viscosity of the polyester component is less than 0.30, the melt viscosity becomes too small and the yarn-making property is lowered and the generation of fluff is increased, which may reduce the quality and productivity.

  As the spinneret used for melt spinning, as shown in FIG. 1 of JP-A-2000-144518, the high-viscosity side and low-viscosity side discharge holes are separated and the high-viscosity side discharge linear velocity is reduced ( A spinneret having a large discharge cross-sectional area is preferred. Then, it is preferable that the molten polyester is passed through the high viscosity side discharge holes and the molten polyamide is passed through the low viscosity side discharge holes to be cooled and solidified. In that case, it is preferable that the weight ratio of a polyester component and a polyamide component exists in the range of 30: 70-70: 30 (more preferably 40: 60-60: 40) as above-mentioned.

  Further, after the melt composite spinning, a separate stretching method in which the film is once wound and then stretched may be employed, or a direct stretching method in which a stretching heat treatment is performed without winding once may be employed. At that time, the spinning and drawing conditions may be normal conditions. For example, in the case of the direct extension method, after spinning at about 1000 to 3500 m / min, the film is continuously drawn and wound at a temperature of 100 to 150 ° C. The draw ratio may be appropriately selected so that the cut elongation of the composite fiber obtained at the end is 10 to 60% (preferably 20 to 45%) and the cut strength is about 3.0 to 4.7 cN / dtex.

Here, it is preferable that the composite fiber satisfies the following requirements (1) to (3) at the same time.
(1) The crimp ratio DC of the composite fiber at the time of drying is in the range of 1.5 to 13% (preferably 2 to 6%).
(2) The crimp ratio HC of the composite fiber when wet is in the range of 0.5 to 7.0% (preferably 1 to 3%).
(3) The difference (DC-HC) between the crimp rate DC and the crimp rate HC is 0.5% or more (preferably 1 to 5%).
However, when dry, the sample is left in a 20 ° C., 65% RH environment for 24 hours, while when wet, the sample is immediately immersed in water at 20 ° C. for 2 hours. In this state, the crimping rate DC at the time of drying and the crimping rate HC at the time of wetness are values measured by the following methods.

First, using a rewind frame with a frame circumference of 1.125 m, the load was applied at 49/50 mN × 9 × total tex (0.1 gf × total denier) at a constant speed, and the number of turns was 10 times. , Twisted into a double ring, and put it in boiling water for 30 minutes while applying an initial load of 49/2500 mN x 20 x 9 x total tex (2 mg x 20 x total denier) After the boiling water treatment, it was dried in a dryer at 100 ° C. for 30 minutes, and then placed in a dry heat of 160 ° C. for 5 minutes with the initial load applied. After the dry heat treatment, the initial load was removed and the sample was allowed to stand for 24 hours or more in a temperature of 20 ° C. and a humidity of 65% RH. Then, the initial load and 98/50 mN × 20 × 9 × total tex (0.2 gf × 20 × A heavy load of (total denier) was applied, the heel length: L0 was measured, only the heavy load was immediately removed, and the heel length: L1 after 1 minute of dewetting was measured. Further, the soot was immersed in water at a temperature of 20 ° C. for 2 hours with the initial load applied, and then taken out. The filter paper (size 30 cm × 30 cm) was applied with a pressure of 0.69 mN / cm ² (70 mgf / cm ² ) for 5 seconds. After lightly wiping off the water, an initial load and a heavy load are applied, and the heel length: L0 ′ is measured. Only the heavy load is removed immediately, and the heel length: L1 ′ after 1 minute of dewetting is measured. From the above measurement values, the following formulas are used to calculate the crimp rate DC (%) at the time of drying, the crimp rate HC (%) at the time of wetness, and the crimp rate difference between the dry and wet conditions (DC-HC) ( %) Was calculated. In addition, the number of n was 5, and the average value was obtained.
Crimp rate during drying DC (%) = ((L0−L1) / L0) × 100
Crimp rate HC (%) when wet = (L0′−L1 ′) / L0 ′) × 100

  Here, if the crimp ratio DC of the composite fiber at the time of drying is less than 1.5%, the amount of change in crimp at the time of wetting becomes small, so that there is a possibility that unevenness will not appear. On the other hand, when the crimp ratio DC of the composite fiber at the time of drying is larger than 13%, the crimp is too strong, and the crimp does not easily change when wet, and the unevenness may not be developed. In addition, when the difference (DC-HC) from the crimp ratio HC of the composite fiber during drying is smaller than 0.5%, there is a possibility that unevenness does not appear when wet.

Next, a woven or knitted fabric is knitted using the composite fiber and a fiber B having a crimp that does not substantially change the crimp rate when not crimped or wet, and then a dyeing process is performed. The latent crimp of the composite fiber is expressed by the heat of (a crimped fiber).
Here, when weaving the knitted or knitted fabric, the woven or knitted structure is not particularly limited, and the above-mentioned ones can be appropriately selected.

  The dyeing temperature is preferably 100 to 140 ° C. (more preferably 110 to 135 ° C.), and the time is preferably the top temperature keeping time within a range of 5 to 40 minutes. By applying a dyeing process to the woven or knitted fabric under such conditions, the composite fiber develops crimp due to a difference in thermal shrinkage between the polyester component and the polyamide component. At that time, by selecting the above-mentioned polymer as the polyester component and the polyamide component, a crimped structure is obtained in which the polyamide component is located inside the crimp.

  A dry heat final set is usually applied to the woven or knitted fabric subjected to the dyeing process. At that time, the temperature of the dry heat final set is preferably 120 to 200 ° C. (more preferably 140 to 180 ° C.), and the time is preferably within a range of 1 to 3 minutes. When the temperature of the dry heat final set is lower than 120 ° C., wrinkles generated during the dyeing process are likely to remain, and the dimensional stability of the finished product may be deteriorated. On the other hand, if the temperature of the dry heat final set is higher than 200 ° C., the crimp of the composite fiber developed during the dyeing process may be reduced, or the fiber may be cured and the texture of the fabric may be hardened.

In the woven or knitted fabric thus obtained, when the woven or knitted fabric is moistened by sweating or rain, the crimped fiber A is stretched due to a decrease in the amount of crimps. On the other hand, since the fibers B do not stretch even when wet, the dimensions of the woven or knitted fabric are fixed. As a result, the portion including the crimped fiber A becomes a convex portion due to the wetness, and irregularities are developed. Such unevenness can reduce stickiness when wet. As a measure for reducing such stickiness, the stickiness force is preferably 980 mN (100 grf) or less. Here, as shown in FIG. 1 of Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 9-195172, the sticking force refers to a metal roller having a diameter of 8 cm and a fabric having a length of 15 cm and a width of 6 cm. Attach to the gauge and attach a clip of 98 mN (10 grf) to the other end of the fabric. Then, while rotating the metal roller at a surface speed of 7 cm / sec, 0.5 cm ³ was injected between the metal roller and the fabric with a syringe, and the tension applied to the fabric was measured with a stress strain gauge. The value is the stickiness.

  The woven or knitted fabric of the present invention has functions such as conventional water absorption processing, water repellent processing, brushed processing, ultraviolet shielding or antibacterial agent, deodorant, insect repellent, phosphorescent agent, retroreflective agent, negative ion generator, etc. Various processes for imparting may be additionally applied.

EXAMPLES Hereinafter, although an Example is given and this invention is demonstrated in detail, this invention is not limited at all by these. In addition, each physical property in an Example is measured with the following method.
<Intrinsic Viscosity of Polyester> Measured at a temperature of 35 ° C. using orthochlorophenol as a solvent.
<Intrinsic viscosity of polyamide> The viscosity was measured at 30 ° C. using m-cresol as a solvent.
<Breaking strength, breaking elongation> After leaving the fiber sample in a room maintained at a constant temperature and humidity of 25 ° C. and a humidity of 60% RH for a day and night, a tensile tester manufactured by Shimadzu Corporation with a sample length of 100 mm It was set on Tensilon, stretched at a speed of 200 mm / min, and the strength at break (cN / dtex) and elongation (%) were measured. In addition, the average value was calculated | required by n number 5.
<Boiling water shrinkage> Boiling water shrinkage (%) was measured by the method defined in JIS L 1013-1998, 7.15. In addition, the average value was calculated | required by n number 3.

<Crimping rate of composite fiber> Frame circumference: Using a rewind frame of 1.125 m, the load was 49/50 mN × 9 × total tex (0.1 gf × total denier) and wound at a constant speed. : Make 10 gavel and twist it into a double ring shape and put it in boiling water with initial load of 49 / 2500mN x 20 x 9 x total tex (2mg x 20 x total denier) It was treated for 30 minutes, and after the boiling water treatment, it was dried in a dryer at 100 ° C. for 30 minutes, and then further placed in a dry heat of 160 ° C. for 5 minutes with the initial load applied. After the dry heat treatment, the initial load was removed and the sample was allowed to stand for 24 hours or more in a temperature of 20 ° C. and a humidity of 65% RH. Then, the initial load and 98/50 mN × 20 × 9 × total tex (0.2 gf × 20 × A heavy load of (total denier) was applied, the heel length: L0 was measured, only the heavy load was immediately removed, and the heel length: L1 after 1 minute of dewetting was measured. Furthermore, after this soot was immersed in water at a temperature of 20 ° C. for 2 hours with the initial load applied, it was taken out, and after lightly wiping off the water with a filter paper, the initial load and heavy load were applied, and the heel length: L0 ′ was measured. Immediately remove only the heavy load and measure the heel length L1 ′ after 1 minute of dewetting. From the above measurement values, the following formulas are used to calculate the crimp rate DC (%) at the time of drying, the crimp rate HC (%) at the time of wetness, and the crimp rate difference between the dry and wet conditions (DC-HC) ( %) Was calculated. In addition, the number of n was 5, and the average value was obtained.
Crimp rate during drying DC (%) = ((L0−L1) / L0) × 100
Crimp rate HC (%) when wet = (L0′−L1 ′) / L0 ′) × 100

<Sticking force> As shown in FIG. 1 of JP-A-9-195172, a fabric of 15 cm in length and 6 cm in width is placed on a metal roller having a diameter of 8 cm, and one end is attached to a stress strain gauge. A clip with a weight of 98 mN (10 grf) is attached to the other end of the fabric. Then, while rotating the metal roller at a surface speed of 7 cm / sec, 0.5 cm ³ was injected between the metal roller and the fabric with a syringe, and the tension applied to the fabric was measured with a stress strain gauge. The value was defined as stickiness. In addition, n number was set to 5 and the average value was calculated | required.

<Roughness change ratio> After leaving the woven or knitted fabric to stand in an environment of a temperature of 20 ° C. and a humidity of 65% RH for 24 hours, a small piece of 30 cm × 30 cm is cut from the woven or knitted fabric (n number = 5). And the thickness (TD) at the time of drying of a woven / knitted fabric was measured using the ultra high precision laser displacement meter (the Keyence company make, model LC-2400) in temperature 20 degreeC and humidity 65% RH environment. Then, after 1 cc of water was dropped onto the small piece with a dropper, the maximum thickness of the dropping portion after 1 minute was measured using an ultra-high precision laser displacement meter (Keyence Co., model LC-2400), The thickness when wet (TW) was used. And the uneven | corrugated change rate was computed from the following formula. In addition, n number was set to 5 and the average value was calculated | required.
Concavity and convexity change rate (%) = ((TW−TD) / TD) × 100

[Example 1]
Nylon 6 having an intrinsic viscosity [η] of 1.3 and modified polyethylene terephthalate copolymerized with 2.6 mol% of 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid having an intrinsic viscosity [η] of 0.39 are each 270 ° C. The melt was melted at 290 ° C. and extruded at a discharge rate of 12.7 g / min using a composite spinneret similar to that shown in FIG. 1 of JP-A No. 2000-144518. After forming a side-by-side type composite fiber having a shape, cooling and solidifying and applying an oil agent, the yarn is preheated with a preheating roller at a speed of 1000 m / min and a temperature of 60 ° C., and then the preheating roller and a speed of 3050 m / min. Then, a drawing heat treatment was performed between heating rollers heated to a temperature of 150 ° C., and winding was performed to obtain 84 dtex / 24 fil composite fiber. The composite fiber had a breaking strength of 3.4 cN / dtex and a breaking elongation of 40%. Further, when the crimp rate was measured by performing boiling water treatment on the composite fiber, the crimp rate DC when dried was 3.3%, the crimp rate HC when wet was 1.6%, and the crimp rate when dried. The difference between the rate DC and the crimp rate HC when wet (DC-HC) was 1.7%.

  Next, using the above-described composite fiber (not treated with boiling water and not crimped. Untwisted yarn), using a 28-gauge double circular knitting machine, the composite fiber and the boiling water shrinkage rate A knitted fabric was knitted with a normal terephthalate multifilament yarn (fiber B) of 84% dtex / 72 fil of 8%.

  And it dyed at a temperature of 130 ° C. and a keep time of 15 minutes, and the latent crimping performance of the composite fiber was made obvious to obtain a crimped fiber A. At that time, the water-absorbing processing agent (polyethylene terephthalate-polyethylene glycol copolymer) was applied to the knitted fabric at the rate of 2 ml / l, and the water-absorbing processing agent was imparted to the knitted fabric. The circular knitted fabric was then subjected to a dry heat final set at a temperature of 160 ° C. for 1 minute.

In the knitted fabric, the cross section in the thickness direction is, as shown in FIG. 3, one layer (Z layer) is composed only of fibers B, and the other layer (Y layer) is composed only of crimped fibers A. The layer was partially connected.
As shown in FIG. 4, the knitted fabric surface viewed from the Y layer side has the Y layer and the Z layer connected in a lattice shape, and when wet, a square portion other than this lattice is not connected. As a result, irregularities appeared.
In such a knitted fabric, the unevenness change rate during drying and wetting was 15%, and the tackiness was 784 mN (80 gf), which was satisfactory with little tackiness during wetting.

[Example 2]
Using a 28-gauge tricot knitting machine, fully set the same composite fiber as used in Example 1 on the back heel, and the same polyethylene terephthalate multifilament yarn (fiber) as used in Example 1 on the middle heel B) is set at 2 in 10 out, and the same polyethylene terephthalate multifilament yarn (fiber B) as used in Example 1 is set at 10 out 2 in on the front heel, back 10-12, middle 10-12-23-34 A tricot knitted fabric was knitted under the knitting conditions of −45−43−32-21, front 45−43−32−21−10−12−23−34, and on-machine course number of 60 courses / 2.54 cm. Next, this knitted fabric was dyed and finished in the same manner as in Example 1.

In the knitted fabric, as shown in FIG. 5, the cross section in the thickness direction includes a portion composed of only the crimped fiber A (Y portion) and a portion composed of the crimped fiber A and the fiber B (X portion). Consisted of.
As shown in Fig. 6, the knitted surface is continuously connected to the entire knitted fabric in a diamond pattern, and when wet, the middle part (Y part) of this diamond pattern becomes a convex part, and irregularities appear. did.
In such a knitted fabric, the unevenness change rate during drying and wetting was 25%, and the tackiness was 686 mN (70 gf), which was satisfactory with little stickiness during wetting.

[Comparative Example 1]
In Example 1, a knitted fabric was knitted and dyed and finished in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the same conjugate fiber as that used in Example 1 was used instead of the polyethylene terephthalate multifilament yarn (fiber B).
The obtained knitted fabric was unsatisfactory because of the 2% change in unevenness between dry and wet conditions and a stickiness of 1470 mN (150 gf).

  According to the present invention, a woven or knitted fabric in which irregularities appear reversibly on the surface of the woven or knitted fabric when wet, and a textile product such as outerwear, innerwear or sportswear using the woven or knitted fabric, and the knitted or knitted fabric is used. When these are worn, the stickiness between the skin and clothes during sweating can be reduced.

It is the schematic diagram which illustrated the single yarn cross-sectional shape of the composite fiber used by this invention. 1 is an example of a knitting structure diagram of a woven or knitted fabric according to the present invention. It is the schematic diagram which showed an example of the cross section of the woven / knitted fabric which concerns on this invention, (1) At the time of drying (2) At the time of wetness. It is the schematic diagram which showed an example of the woven / knitted fabric which concerns on this invention. It is the schematic diagram which showed an example of the cross section of the woven / knitted fabric which concerns on this invention, (1) At the time of drying (2) At the time of wetness. It is the schematic diagram which showed an example of the woven / knitted fabric which concerns on this invention.

Explanation of symbols

P: Polyester component N: Polyamide component 1: Z layer 2: Connection part 3: Y layer 4: Part connected to the Z layer 5: Part not connected to the Z layer 6: Y part 7: X part 8 : Y part 9: X part

Claims (15)

A woven or knitted fabric comprising a crimped fiber A having a reduced crimp rate when wet and a fiber B having a crimp that does not substantially change the crimp rate when not crimped or wet, when the woven or knitted fabric is dried A woven or knitted fabric that exhibits unevenness due to wetting, wherein the unevenness change rate calculated by the following formula is 5% or more from the thickness (TD) and wet thickness (TW).
Concavity and convexity change rate (%) = ((TW−TD) / TD) × 100
However, the thickness at the time of drying is the thickness of the woven or knitted fabric after leaving the woven or knitted fabric for 24 hours in a temperature of 20 ° C. and a humidity of 65% RH. This is the maximum thickness of the dripping portion after 1 minute has elapsed after 1 cc of water is dropped on the knitted fabric.   The crimped fiber A is a composite fiber in which a polyester component and a polyamide component are bonded in a side-by-side manner, and is a crimped fiber having a crimped structure in which latent crimping performance is expressed. Woven and knitted fabrics that appear uneven when wet.   The knitted or knitted fabric having unevenness due to wetting according to claim 2, wherein the polyester component is a modified polyethylene terephthalate copolymerized with 2.0 to 4.5 mol% of 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid.   The woven or knitted fabric in which unevenness is manifested by wetting according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the crimped fiber A is a non-twisted yarn or a sweet twisted yarn having a twist of 300 T / m or less.   The woven or knitted fabric in which irregularities are manifested by wetting according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the fiber B is a polyester fiber.   It has a portion (Y portion) composed only of the crimped fiber A and a portion (Z portion) composed only of the fiber B, and the Z portion is continuously in the warp direction and / or the weft direction. The knitted or knitted fabric in which unevenness is expressed by wetting according to any one of claims 1 to 5.   It has the part (Z part) comprised only with the said fiber B, and the part (X part) comprised with the said crimped fiber A and the said fiber B, and the said Z part is a warp direction and / or a weft direction. The woven or knitted fabric in which unevenness is manifested by wetting according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein   In the woven or knitted fabric, the woven or knitted fabric has a portion (X portion) composed of the crimped fibers A and the fibers B and a portion (Y portion) composed only of the crimped fibers A. The woven or knitted fabric in which unevenness is expressed by wetting according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the X part is continuously connected in the warp direction and / or the weft direction.   The woven or knitted fabric is composed of a portion (X portion) composed of the crimped fibers A and the fibers B, a portion composed only of the crimped fibers A (Y portion), and the fibers B only. The knitted or knitted fabric having unevenness due to wetting according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the Z portion is continuously connected in the warp direction and / or the weft direction.   The woven or knitted fabric is a multilayer woven or knitted fabric composed of two or more layers, having a layer composed of the crimped fibers A and fibers B, a layer composed of only the fibers B, and the former layer and the latter The knitted or knitted fabric in which unevenness is expressed by wetting according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the layer is partially bonded.   The woven or knitted fabric is a multilayer woven or knitted fabric composed of two or more layers, and has a layer composed of the crimped fibers A and fibers B and a layer composed only of the crimped fibers A, and the former layer The woven or knitted fabric in which unevenness is developed by wetting according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the first layer and the latter layer are partially bonded.   The woven or knitted fabric is a multilayer woven or knitted fabric composed of two or more layers, and has a layer composed only of the crimped fibers A, a layer composed only of the fibers B, and the former layer and the latter layer, The woven or knitted fabric in which unevenness is expressed by wetting according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein is partially bonded.   A composite fiber obtained by melt spinning into a side-by-side type using a polyester having an intrinsic viscosity of 0.30 to 0.43 and a polyamide having an intrinsic viscosity of 1.0 to 1.4; The woven or knitted fabric is knitted using the fiber B having a crimp with substantially no change in the crimp rate, and then the woven or knitted fabric is subjected to a heat treatment to develop the latent crimp of the composite fiber. The method for producing a woven or knitted fabric in which unevenness is developed by wetting according to claim 1. The method for producing a woven or knitted fabric with unevenness due to wetting according to claim 13, wherein the composite fiber used for knitting satisfies the following requirements (1) to (3) after boiling water treatment.
(1) The crimp rate DC of the composite fiber at the time of drying is in the range of 1.5 to 13%.
(2) The crimp ratio HC of the composite fiber when wet is in the range of 0.5 to 7.0%.
(3) The difference (DC-HC) between the crimp rate DC and the crimp rate HC is 0.5% or more.
However, when dry, the sample is left in a 20 ° C., 65% RH environment for 24 hours, while when wet, the sample is immediately immersed in water at 20 ° C. for 2 hours. It is a state.   A textile product selected from the group consisting of an outer garment, a sports garment, and an inner garment, wherein the woven or knitted fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 12 is used.

Images