JP2009041148A - Woven fabric and textile product - Google Patents

Woven fabric and textile product Download PDF

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JP2009041148A
JP2009041148A JP2007209411A JP2007209411A JP2009041148A JP 2009041148 A JP2009041148 A JP 2009041148A JP 2007209411 A JP2007209411 A JP 2007209411A JP 2007209411 A JP2007209411 A JP 2007209411A JP 2009041148 A JP2009041148 A JP 2009041148A
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woven fabric
composite fiber
fabric
judgment
fibers
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JP2007209411A
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Naomiki Horikawa
直幹 堀川
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Teijin Fibers Ltd
帝人ファイバー株式会社
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Priority to JP2007209411A priority Critical patent/JP2009041148A/en
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Abstract

<P>PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To provide a woven fabric containing a conjugate fiber containing a polyester component and a polyamide component bonded in a side-by-side form and having a property to easily recover the wrinkle caused by the use of the fabric by moisture absorption, and a textile product produced by using the woven fabric. <P>SOLUTION: The woven fabric contains a conjugate fiber containing a polyester component and a polyamide component bonded in a side-by-side form in an amount of 20 wt.% or more based on the total weight of the woven fabric, the conjugate fiber slipped out of the woven fabric has a crimped structure, the conjugate fiber satisfies the formula DC<SB>F</SB>-HC<SB>F</SB>≥5 (%) wherein DC<SB>F</SB>(%) is the crimp percent of the conjugate fiber in dried state and HC<SB>F</SB>(%) is the crimp percent of the fiber in humidified state, and the cover factor CF of the woven fabric is 3,300 or less. <P>COPYRIGHT: (C)2009,JPO&INPIT

Description

  The present invention relates to a woven fabric including a composite fiber in which a polyester component and a polyamide component are joined in a side-by-side manner, and a woven fabric in which wrinkles provided by use are easily recovered by moisture in a bathroom after bathing, and the woven fabric. The present invention relates to a textile product to be used.

Conventionally, fabrics made of synthetic fibers such as polyester fibers are often used for outer clothing, blouses, dress shirts, Y-shirts and the like.
However, fabrics made of synthetic fibers such as polyester fibers have the advantage that they do not easily become wrinkles, but have the disadvantage that wrinkles do not easily recover once wrinkles are applied.
A woven or knitted fabric including a composite fiber in which a polyester component and a polyamide component are joined in a side-by-side manner is proposed by, for example, Patent Document 1 and Patent Document 2.

JP 2006-97176 A JP 2003-41462 A

  The present invention has been made in view of the above-mentioned background, and the object thereof is a woven fabric including a composite fiber in which a polyester component and a polyamide component are joined in a side-by-side manner, and a wrinkle imparted by use is easily absorbed by moisture absorption. Another object of the present invention is to provide a woven fabric having the ability to recover to the above and a textile product using the woven fabric.

  As a result of intensive studies to achieve the above-mentioned problems, the present inventor has obtained a crimped structure when the composite fiber extracted from the fabric is obtained using a side-by-side type composite fiber in which different polymers of polyester and polyamide are bonded. If the fabric has a specific crimping rate at the time of moisture absorption and drying, and the fabric has a predetermined cover factor, the wrinkles imparted by use can be easily recovered by moisture absorption. As a result, the present invention has been completed.

Thus, according to the present invention, “a composite fiber in which a polyester component and a polyamide component are bonded in a side-by-side manner in an amount of 20% by weight or more based on the total weight of the fabric, the composite fiber extracted from the fabric. There has crimped structure, the crimp ratio of the dry composite fiber DC F (%), when the percentage of crimp moisture absorption and HC F (%), DC F -HC F ≧ 5 And a cover factor CF of the fabric is 3300 or less.

However, during drying, the sample is left for 24 hours in a temperature of 20 ° C. and humidity of 65% RH. On the other hand, when moisture is absorbed, the sample is placed in a temperature of 30 ° C. and humidity of 90% RH. This is the state after standing for 24 hours, and the cover factor CF is defined by the following equation.
CF = (DWp / 1.1) 1/2 × MWp + (DWf / 1.1) 1/2 × MWf
[DWp is the total warp fineness (dtex), MWp is the warp weave density (main / 2.54 cm), DWf is the total weft fineness (dtex), and MWf is the weft weave density (main / 2.54 cm). ]

  In that case, it is preferable that a polyester component consists of a modified polyester copolymerized with 2.0 to 4.5 mol% of 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid. Moreover, it is preferable that the said composite fiber is a twisted yarn in which the twist of 600 T / m or more was given.

  In the woven fabric of the present invention, the woven fabric is preferably composed of the composite fiber and other fibers. Here, it is preferable that the composite fiber is arranged on one of the warp and the weft and the other fiber is arranged on the other. Moreover, it is preferable that the said composite fiber and other fiber are alternately arranged by one line or multiple lines as a constituent thread of a textile fabric, respectively. Moreover, it is preferable that the said composite fiber and another fiber are contained in a woven or knitted fabric as a core-sheath type composite yarn in which the said composite fiber is located in a core part, and another fiber is located in a sheath part. Moreover, it is preferable that another fiber is a polyester fiber.

The fabric of the present invention is preferably subjected to a dyeing process. Moreover, it is preferable that the wrinkle recovery property of the fabric at the time of moisture absorption is 2nd grade or more. However, the wrinkle recovery property of the woven fabric shall be measured by the following method. However, the wrinkle recovery property of the woven fabric shall be measured by the following method. First, three test pieces (rectangular) having a length of 8 cm and a length of 25 cm are collected as test pieces in the same direction as the fabric, and 1 cm on the short side is sewn into a ring shape with a seam allowance. Thereafter, as shown in FIG. 1, after passing the test piece to the bottom of a cylinder having a diameter of 6 cm, a cylindrical load of 39.2 N (4 kgf) is further applied so that the test piece is closely attached to the cylinder from above, and brazed for 30 minutes. I do. After dewetting, the test piece is unwound and left for 3 hours, and then the test piece is compared with the judgment standard photograph shown in FIG. 2 to make a judgment grade (A1) when drying. Thereafter, the test piece is placed in a constant temperature and humidity layer at a temperature of 30 ° C. and a relative humidity of 90% for 1 hour, taken out, and the state of wrinkles after 1 hour has passed is again compared with the above judgment standard photograph for comparison and judgment. It is set as the judgment grade (A2) after moisture absorption. And wrinkle recovery property is computed by the following formula.
Wrinkle recovery (class) = (judgment class after moisture absorption (A2)) − (judgment class during drying (A1))

  In addition, according to the present invention, there is provided a textile product selected from the group consisting of an outer garment, a blouse, a dress shirt, and a Y-shirt, using the woven fabric.

  According to the present invention, a woven fabric including a composite fiber in which a polyester component and a polyamide component are bonded in a side-by-side manner, and a woven fabric having a performance in which wrinkles provided by use are easily recovered by moisture absorption, and the woven fabric are used. A textile product is obtained.

Hereinafter, embodiments of the present invention will be described in detail.
In the present invention, the composite fiber is composed of a polyester component and a polyamide component, and both components are joined in a side-by-side manner.

  Here, as the polyester component, in terms of adhesiveness with the other polyamide component, a compound having one or more functional groups having an alkali or alkaline earth metal of sulfonic acid or a phosphonium salt and having an ester forming ability Preferred examples thereof include modified polyesters such as polyethylene terephthalate, polypropylene terephthalate, and polybutylene terephthalate. Among these, modified polyethylene terephthalate obtained by copolymerizing the above compound is particularly preferable from the viewpoint of versatility and polymer cost. In this case, examples of the copolymer component include 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid and ester derivatives thereof, 5-phosphonium isophthalic acid and ester derivatives thereof, and sodium p-hydroxybenzenesulfonate. Of these, 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid is preferable. As a copolymerization amount, the range of 2.0-4.5 mol% is preferable. When the copolymerization amount is less than 2.0 mol%, although excellent crimping performance can be obtained, there is a possibility that peeling occurs at the bonding interface between the polyamide component and the polyester component. On the other hand, if the copolymerization amount is greater than 4.5 mol%, the crystallization of the polyester component becomes difficult to proceed during the stretching heat treatment, and thus it is necessary to raise the stretching heat treatment temperature. There is a risk.

  One polyamide component is not particularly limited as long as it has an amide bond in the main chain, and examples thereof include nylon-4, nylon-6, nylon-66, nylon-46, nylon-12 and the like. can give. Among these, nylon-6 and nylon-66 are preferable in terms of versatility, polymer cost, and yarn production stability.

  The polyester component and the polyamide component include known additives such as pigments, pigments, matting agents, antifouling agents, fluorescent whitening agents, flame retardants, stabilizers, antistatic agents, light-resistant agents, and ultraviolet absorption agents. An agent or the like may be included.

  The composite fiber joined to the side-by-side type can take any cross-sectional shape and composite form. For example, a side-by-side type as shown in FIGS. 1A and 1B of JP-A-2006-97176 is preferably used, but an eccentric core-sheath type as shown in FIG. Furthermore, the cross-sectional shape of the single fiber may be a triangle or a quadrangle, and the hollow portion may be included in the cross section. In particular, as shown in FIG. 1 (A) of Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 2006-97176, a round shape is preferable because wrinkles are easily recovered during moisture absorption. Although the composite ratio of both components can be selected arbitrarily, it is usually in the range of 30:70 to 70:30 (more preferably 40:60 to 60:40) by weight ratio of the polyester component and the polyamide component. It is preferable.

  The single yarn fineness and the number of single yarns (number of filaments) of the composite fiber are not particularly limited, but the single yarn fineness is 1 to 10 dtex (more preferably 2 to 5 dtex), and the number of single yarns is 10 to 200 (more preferably 20 to 100). ) Is preferable.

  Moreover, the composite fiber contained in the fabric of the present invention needs to have a crimped structure. A composite fiber in which different types of polymers are joined in a side-by-side manner usually has latent crimping performance, and the latent crimping performance is manifested when subjected to heat treatment such as dyeing as described later. As the crimped structure, it is preferable that the polyamide component is located inside the crimp and the polyester component is located outside the crimp. The composite fiber having such a crimped structure can be easily obtained by the production method described later. When the composite fiber has such a crimped structure, the inner polyamide component swells and stretches during moisture absorption, and the outer polyester component hardly undergoes a change in length, resulting in a lower crimp rate ( The apparent length of the composite fiber is increased.) On the other hand, at the time of drying, the inner polyamide component shrinks and the outer polyester component hardly changes in length, so that the crimp rate increases (the apparent length of the composite fiber becomes shorter). Thus, wrinkles are recovered by reversibly changing the crimp rate of the composite fiber during moisture absorption.

  The composite fiber is preferably a twisted yarn subjected to a twist of 600 T / m or more (preferably 600 to 1500 T / m). When the twist is applied in this way, when the crimp rate of the composite fiber reversibly changes during moisture absorption, the wrinkle is easily recovered by a synergistic effect with the twist. In addition, since there exists a possibility that a wrinkle may generate | occur | produce when this twist number is larger than 1500 T / m, it is preferable that it is 1500 T / m or less. Further, interlaced air processing and / or ordinary false twist crimping may be performed so that the number of entanglements is about 20 to 60 pieces / m.

  The woven fabric of the present invention contains the above-described composite fiber. At that time, it is important that the content of the composite fiber contained in the woven fabric is 20% by weight or more (more preferably 40% by weight or more) based on the weight of the woven fabric. If the content of the composite fiber is less than 20% by weight, wrinkles may not be sufficiently recovered during moisture absorption.

  When the woven fabric is composed of the composite fiber and fibers other than the composite fiber, the other fibers are not particularly limited, and polyesters such as polyethylene terephthalate, polytrimethylene terephthalate, and polybutylene terephthalate, Polyamides such as nylon 6 and nylon 66, polyolefins such as polyethylene and polypropylene, acrylic, para-type or meta-type aramid, and modified synthetic fibers thereof, as well as fibers suitable for clothing such as natural fibers, regenerated fibers, and semi-synthetic fibers If so, you can choose freely. Among these, polyethylene terephthalate, polypropylene terephthalate, polybutylene terephthalate, and the above-mentioned in terms of dimensional stability when wet and compatibility with the above-mentioned composite fibers (mixing property, knitting / weaving property, dyeability) A polyester fiber made of a modified polyester in which a copolymer component is copolymerized is preferable. Further, the single yarn fineness and the number of single yarns (number of filaments) of such other fibers are not particularly limited, but in order to increase the hygroscopicity of the woven or knitted fabric and restore the wrinkles with good performance when absorbing moisture, the single yarn fineness of 0.1 to 5 dtex (more preferably 0.5 to 2 dtex) and the number of single yarns 20 to 200 (more preferably 30 to 100) are preferable. It should be noted that interlaced air processing and / or normal false twist crimping may be applied to other fibers so that the number of entanglements is about 20 to 60 pieces / m.

  When the composite fiber and other fibers are included in the woven fabric of the present invention, both may constitute the woven fabric with a single yarn, or an air mixed yarn, a mixed twisted yarn, a composite false twisted crimped yarn The knitted or knitted fabric may be configured as a composite yarn such as an aligned yarn.

  As the structure of the woven fabric, the woven structure and the number of layers are not particularly limited. For example, woven structures such as plain weave, twill, satin and the like are preferably exemplified, but are not limited thereto. The number of layers may be a single layer or a multilayer of two or more layers.

Next, in the woven fabric of the present invention, the conjugate fiber extracted from the woven fabric has a crimped structure, the crimp rate when drying the conjugate fiber is DC F (%), and the crimp rate when absorbing moisture. when to the HC F (%), DC F -HC F ≧ 5 (%) ( preferably, 50 (%) ≧ DC F -HC F ≧ 10 (%)) it is important to be. If DC F -HC F is less than 5%, the soot may not be recovered with good performance when it absorbs moisture compared to when it is dried, which is not preferable.

Here, the crimp rate of the composite fiber in the woven fabric is measured by the following method. First, the fabric is left in an atmosphere of a temperature of 20 ° C. and a humidity of 65% RH for 24 hours, and then a 30 cm × 30 cm piece in the same direction as the fabric is cut from the fabric (n number = 5). Subsequently, the composite fiber was taken out from each piece, and the yarn length L0f was measured by applying a load of 1.76 mN / dtex (200 mg / de), and after 1 minute of dewetting, 0.0176 mN / dtex (2 mg / de). A load is applied to measure the yarn length L1f. Further, this yarn was allowed to stand for 24 hours in a temperature of 30 ° C. and a humidity of 90% RH, and then the yarn length L0f ′ was measured by applying a load of 1.76 mN / dtex (200 mg / de). The yarn length L1f ′ is measured under a load of 0.176 mN / dtex (2 mg / de). More of at equation below from the measured numerical percentage of crimp DC F (%) upon drying, crimp ratio HC F (%) at the time of moisture absorption, dry and crimp ratio difference during moisture absorption (DC F - HC F ) (%) is calculated. Note that n is 5 and the average value is obtained. In addition, the said measurement shall immediately perform the sample taken out from atmosphere.
Crimp rate during drying DC F (%) = ((L0f−L1f) / L0f) × 100
Crimp rate at the time of moisture absorption HC F (%) = (L0f′−L1f ′) / L0f ′) × 100

  In the present invention, as a form of the woven fabric, (1) the woven fabric in which the above-mentioned conjugate fiber is arranged on one of the warp and the weft and the other fiber is arranged on the other, (2) the above-mentioned conjugate fiber and Each of the other fibers, as a constituent yarn of the woven fabric, is a woven fabric in which one or a plurality of yarns are alternately arranged. (3) The above-mentioned composite fiber and the other fiber have the above-mentioned composite fiber at the core. A woven fabric included in the woven fabric as a core-sheath type composite yarn in which the other fibers are positioned in the sheath portion, and (4) the woven fabric, and the above-mentioned composite fibers and other fibers are drawn together to produce a warp and / or a woven structure Examples include woven fabrics arranged on wefts.

The fabric of the present invention can be easily obtained, for example, by the following production method.
First, a modified polyester having an intrinsic viscosity of 0.30 to 0.43 (measured at 35 ° C. using orthochlorophenol as a solvent) and 2.0 to 4.5 mol% of 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid copolymerized; Using a polyamide having an intrinsic viscosity of 1.0 to 1.4 (measured at 30 ° C. using m-cresol as a solvent), melt composite spinning is performed in a side-by-side manner. At that time, it is particularly important that the intrinsic viscosity of the polyester component is 0.43 or less. If the intrinsic viscosity of the polyester component is greater than 0.43, the viscosity of the polyester component increases, so that the physical properties of the composite fiber are close to that of a single polyester yarn, and the woven fabric intended by the present invention may not be obtained. On the other hand, if the intrinsic viscosity of the polyester component is less than 0.30, the melt viscosity becomes too small and the yarn-making property is lowered and the generation of fluff is increased, which may reduce the quality and productivity.

  As the spinneret used for melt spinning, as shown in FIG. 1 of JP-A-2000-144518, the high-viscosity side and low-viscosity side discharge holes are separated and the high-viscosity side discharge linear velocity is reduced ( A spinneret having a large discharge cross-sectional area is preferred. Then, it is preferable that the molten polyester is passed through the high viscosity side discharge holes and the molten polyamide is passed through the low viscosity side discharge holes to be cooled and solidified. In that case, it is preferable that the weight ratio of a polyester component and a polyamide component exists in the range of 30: 70-70: 30 (more preferably 40: 60-60: 40) as above-mentioned.

  Further, after the melt composite spinning, a separate stretching method in which the film is once wound and then stretched may be employed, or a direct stretching method in which a stretching heat treatment is performed without winding once may be employed. At that time, the spinning and drawing conditions may be normal conditions. For example, in the case of the direct extension method, after spinning at about 1000 to 3300 m / min, the film is continuously drawn and wound at a temperature of 100 to 150 ° C. The draw ratio may be appropriately selected so that the cut elongation of the composite fiber obtained at the end is 10 to 60% (preferably 20 to 45%) and the cut strength is about 3.0 to 4.7 cN / dtex.

Here, it is preferable that the composite fiber satisfies the following requirements (1) and (2) at the same time.
(1) The crimp ratio DC of the composite fiber at the time of drying is in the range of 1.5 to 13% (preferably 2 to 6%).
(2) The difference (DC-HC) between the crimp rate DC and the crimp rate HC of the composite fiber when wet is 0.5% or more (preferably 1 to 5%).

  However, when dry, the sample is left in a 20 ° C., 65% RH environment for 24 hours, while when wet, the sample is immersed in water at 20 ° C. for 2 hours. In this state, the crimping rate DC at the time of drying and the crimping rate HC at the time of wetness are values measured by the following methods.

First, using a rewind frame with a frame circumference of 1.125 m, a load was applied at 49/50 mN × 9 × total tex (0.1 gf × total denier) at a constant speed, and the number of turns was 10 times. , Twisted into a double ring, and put it in boiling water for 30 minutes with initial load of 49 / 2500mN x 20 x 9 x total tex (2mg x 20 x total denier) Then, after the boiling water treatment, it is dried for 30 minutes in a dryer at 100 ° C., and is further placed in a dry heat of 160 ° C. for 5 minutes with the initial load applied. After the dry heat treatment, the initial load was removed and the sample was allowed to stand for 24 hours or more in a temperature of 20 ° C. and a humidity of 65% RH. Then, the initial load and 98/50 mN × 20 × 9 × total tex (0.2 gf × 20 × Apply a heavy load of total denier), measure the heel length: L0, immediately remove only the heavy load, and measure the heel length: L1 after 1 minute of dewetting. Further, the soot was immersed in water at a temperature of 20 ° C. for 2 hours with the initial load applied, and then taken out. The filter paper (size 30 cm × 30 cm) was applied with a pressure of 0.69 mN / cm 2 (70 mgf / cm 2 ) for 5 seconds. After lightly wiping off the water, an initial load and a heavy load are applied, and the heel length: L0 ′ is measured. Only the heavy load is removed immediately, and the heel length: L1 ′ after 1 minute of dewetting is measured. From the above measurement values, the following formulas are used to calculate the crimp rate DC (%) at the time of drying, the crimp rate HC (%) at the time of wetness, and the crimp rate difference between the dry and wet conditions (DC-HC) ( %).
Crimp rate during drying DC (%) = ((L0−L1) / L0) × 100
Crimp rate HC (%) when wet = (L0′−L1 ′) / L0 ′) × 100

  The crimp rate HC of the composite fiber when wet is preferably in the range of 0.5 to 10.0% (preferably 1 to 3%).

Next, after twisting the composite fiber by a conventional method, the composite fiber is used alone, or other fibers are used at the same time, and a woven fabric is woven by a conventional method, followed by heat treatment such as dyeing. Expresses crimps.
Here, when weaving the woven fabric, as described above, it is important that the amount is 20% by weight or more (preferably 40% by weight or more) based on the weight of the woven fabric. Further, the woven structure is not particularly limited, and the above-described one can be selected as appropriate.

  The dyeing temperature is preferably 100 to 140 ° C. (more preferably 110 to 135 ° C.), and the time is preferably the top temperature keeping time within a range of 5 to 40 minutes. By subjecting the fabric to a dyeing process under such conditions, the conjugate fiber develops crimps due to a difference in thermal shrinkage between the polyester component and the polyamide component. At that time, by selecting the above-mentioned polymer as the polyester component and the polyamide component, a crimped structure is obtained in which the polyamide component is located inside the crimp.

  A dry heat final set is usually applied to a woven fabric that has been dyed. At that time, the temperature of the dry heat final set is preferably 120 to 200 ° C. (more preferably 140 to 180 ° C.), and the time is preferably within a range of 1 to 3 minutes. If the temperature of the dry heat final set is lower than 120 ° C., wrinkles generated during the dyeing process are likely to remain, and the dimensional stability of the finished product may be deteriorated. On the other hand, if the temperature of the dry heat final set is higher than 200 ° C., the crimp of the composite fiber developed during the dyeing process may decrease, or the fiber may harden and the texture of the fabric may become hard.

In the woven fabric thus obtained, it is important that the cover factor CF of the woven fabric is within the range of 3300 or less (preferably 1800 to 3200) in order to ensure the mobility (crimp change) of the composite fiber in the woven fabric. If the cover factor CF is larger than 3300, wrinkles may not be recovered upon moisture absorption. However, the cover factor CF is defined by the following equation.
CF = (DWp / 1.1) 1/2 × MWp + (DWf / 1.1) 1/2 × MWf
[DWp is the total warp fineness (dtex), MWp is the warp weave density (main / 2.54 cm), DWf is the total weft fineness (dtex), and MWf is the weft weave density (main / 2.54 cm). ]

In the woven fabric of the present invention, wrinkles recovered by use are recovered by reversibly changing the crimp rate of the composite fiber when absorbing moisture. In this case, as the wrinkle recovery property, it is preferable that the wrinkle recovery property of the woven fabric by moisture absorption is second or higher. However, the wrinkle recovery property of the woven fabric shall be measured by the following method. However, the wrinkle recovery property of the woven fabric shall be measured by the following method. First, three test pieces (rectangular) having a length of 8 cm and a length of 25 cm are collected as test pieces in the same direction as the fabric, and 1 cm on the short side is sewn into a ring shape with a seam allowance. Thereafter, as shown in FIG. 1, after passing the test piece to the bottom of a cylinder having a diameter of 6 cm, a cylindrical load of 39.2 N (4 kgf) is further applied so that the test piece is closely attached to the cylinder from above, and brazed for 30 minutes. I do. After dewetting, the test piece is unwound and left for 3 hours, and then the test piece is compared with the judgment standard photograph shown in FIG. 2 to make a judgment grade (A1) when drying. Thereafter, the test piece is placed in a constant temperature and humidity layer at a temperature of 30 ° C. and a relative humidity of 90% for 1 hour, taken out, and the state of wrinkles after 1 hour has passed is again compared with the above judgment standard photograph for comparison and judgment. It is set as the judgment grade (A2) after moisture absorption. And wrinkle recovery property is computed by the following formula.
Wrinkle recovery (class) = (judgment class after moisture absorption (A2)) − (judgment class during drying (A1))

  In addition to the above-described processing, the fabric of the present invention includes conventional brushing processing, ultraviolet shielding or antibacterial agents, deodorants, insect repellents, phosphorescent agents, retroreflective agents, negative ion generators, water absorbing agents, etc. Various processes for imparting functions may be additionally applied.

  Next, the textile product of the present invention is a textile product selected from the group consisting of an outer garment, a blouse, a dress shirt, and a Y-shirt, using the woven fabric. Since such textiles use the above-mentioned woven fabric, even if wrinkles are given by use, wrinkles are easily recovered by moisture such as bathroom after bathing or moisture such as deodorizing spray.

  EXAMPLES Hereinafter, although an Example is given and this invention is demonstrated in detail, this invention is not limited at all by these. In addition, each physical property in an Example is measured with the following method.

<Intrinsic Viscosity of Polyester> Measured at a temperature of 35 ° C. using orthochlorophenol as a solvent.

<Intrinsic viscosity of polyamide> The viscosity was measured at 30 ° C. using m-cresol as a solvent.

<Breaking strength, breaking elongation> After leaving the fiber sample in a room maintained at a constant temperature and humidity of 25 ° C. and a humidity of 60% RH for a day and night, a tensile tester manufactured by Shimadzu Corporation with a sample length of 100 mm It was set on Tensilon, stretched at a speed of 200 mm / min, and the strength at break (cN / dtex) and elongation (%) were measured. In addition, the average value was calculated | required by n number 5.

<Crimping ratio of false twisted crimped yarn> A test filament yarn was wound around a measuring machine having a circumference of 1.125 m to prepare a skein having a dryness of 3333 dtex.
The skein is suspended from a hanging nail of the scale plate, an initial load of 6 grf (5.9 cN) is applied to the lower part thereof, and a heavy load of 600 grf (588 cN) is further applied, and the skein length L0 after 1 minute. Was measured. Immediately thereafter, the heavy load is removed from the skein, removed from the hanging nail of the scale plate, and this skein is immersed in boiling water for 20 minutes to develop crimps. The skein after the boiling water treatment was taken out from the boiling water, the moisture contained in the skein was absorbed and removed with a filter paper, and air-dried at room temperature for 24 hours. The air-dried skein is hung on a hanging nail of a scale plate, and a heavy load of 600 grf (588 cN) is applied to the lower part thereof. After 1 minute, the skein length L1 is measured, and then the heavy load is removed from the skein. The skein length L2 was measured after 1 minute. The initial load is always applied during measurement. The crimp rate (CP) of the false twist crimped yarn was calculated by the following formula.
CP (%) = ((L1-L2) / L0) × 100

<Crimping rate of composite fiber> Frame circumference: Using a rewind frame of 1.125 m, the load was 49/50 mN × 9 × total tex (0.1 gf × total denier) and wound at a constant speed. : Make 10 gavel and twist it into a double ring shape and put it in boiling water with initial load of 49 / 2500mN x 20 x 9 x total tex (2mg x 20 x total denier) It was treated for 30 minutes, and after the boiling water treatment, it was dried in a dryer at 100 ° C. for 30 minutes, and then further placed in a dry heat of 160 ° C. for 5 minutes with the initial load applied. After the dry heat treatment, the initial load was removed and the sample was allowed to stand for 24 hours or more in a temperature of 20 ° C. and a humidity of 65% RH. Then, the initial load and 98/50 mN × 20 × 9 × total tex (0.2 gf × 20 × A heavy load of (total denier) was applied, the heel length: L0 was measured, only the heavy load was immediately removed, and the heel length: L1 after 1 minute of dewetting was measured. Further, the soot was immersed in water at a temperature of 20 ° C. for 2 hours with the initial load applied, and then taken out. The filter paper (size 30 cm × 30 cm) was applied with a pressure of 0.69 mN / cm 2 (70 mgf / cm 2 ) for 5 seconds. After lightly wiping off the water, an initial load and a heavy load are applied, and the heel length: L0 ′ is measured. Only the heavy load is removed immediately, and the heel length: L1 ′ after 1 minute of dewetting is measured. From the above measurement values, the following formulas are used to calculate the crimp rate DC (%) at the time of drying, the crimp rate HC (%) at the time of wetness, and the crimp rate difference between the dry and wet conditions (DC-HC) ( %) Was calculated. In addition, the number of n was 5, and the average value was obtained.
Crimp rate during drying DC (%) = ((L0−L1) / L0) × 100
Crimp rate HC (%) when wet = (L0′−L1 ′) / L0 ′) × 100

<Crimping rate of composite fiber in fabric> After leaving the fabric in an atmosphere of temperature 20 ° C. and humidity 65% RH for 24 hours, 30 cm × 30 cm pieces in the same direction as the fabric were cut from the fabric (n number) = 5). Subsequently, the composite fiber was taken out from each piece, and the yarn length L0f was measured by applying a load of 1.76 mN / dtex (200 mg / de), and after 1 minute of dewetting, 0.0176 mN / dtex (2 mg / de). A load was applied to measure the yarn length L1f. Further, this yarn was allowed to stand for 24 hours in a temperature of 30 ° C. and a humidity of 90% RH, and then the yarn length L0f ′ was measured by applying a load of 1.76 mN / dtex (200 mg / de). The yarn length L1f ′ was measured by applying a load of 0.176 mN / dtex (2 mg / de). More of at equation below from the measured numerical percentage of crimp DC F (%) upon drying, crimp ratio HC F (%) at the time of moisture absorption, dry and crimp ratio difference during moisture absorption (DC F - HC F) was calculated (%). In addition, n number was set to 5 and the average value was calculated | required. The measurement was performed immediately on a sample taken out from the atmosphere.
Crimp rate during drying DC F (%) = ((L0f−L1f) / L0f) × 100
Crimp rate at the time of moisture absorption HC F (%) = (L0f′−L1f ′) / L0f ′) × 100

<Number of twists> The number of twists (T / m) was measured with a commercially available shopper type tester.

<Wrinkle recovery property> In an atmosphere of temperature 20 ° C and humidity 65% RH, three test pieces (rectangular) measuring 8cm and 25cm in the same direction as the fabric were sampled, and 1cm on the short side was used as a ring. Stitched together. Thereafter, as shown in FIG. 1, after passing the test piece to the bottom of a cylinder having a diameter of 6 cm, a cylindrical load of 39.2 N (4 kgf) is further applied so that the test piece is closely attached to the cylinder from above, and brazed for 30 minutes. Went. After the weight removal, the test piece was unwound and allowed to stand for 3 hours, and then the test piece was placed side by side with the judgment standard photograph shown in FIG. 2 to make a judgment grade (A1) during drying. At this time, the low-angle illumination of the washing appearance test method was used as the illumination.
Thereafter, the test piece is placed in a constant temperature and humidity layer at a temperature of 30 ° C. and a relative humidity of 90% for 1 hour, taken out, and the state of wrinkles after 1 hour has passed is again compared with the above judgment standard photograph for comparison and judgment. It was set as the judgment grade (A2) after moisture absorption. And wrinkle recovery property was computed by the following formula.
Wrinkle recovery (class) = (judgment class after moisture absorption (A2)) − (judgment class during drying (A1))

<Cover factor CF> It was calculated by the following formula.
CF = (DWp / 1.1) 1/2 × MWp + (DWf / 1.1) 1/2 × MWf
However, DWp is the total warp fineness (dtex), MWp is the warp weave density (main / 2.54 cm), DWf is the total weft fineness (dtex), and MWf is the weft weave density (main / 2.54 cm).

[Example 1]
Nylon 6 having an intrinsic viscosity [η] of 1.3 and modified polyethylene terephthalate copolymerized with 2.6 mol% of 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid having an intrinsic viscosity [η] of 0.39 are each 270 ° C. 1 was melted at 290 ° C. and extruded at a discharge rate of 12.7 g / min using a composite spinneret similar to that shown in FIG. 1 of JP-A-2000-144518, and FIG. 1 of JP-A-2006-97176. After forming the side-by-side type composite fiber having the cross-sectional shape of the single fiber of (a), cooling and solidifying and applying an oil agent, the yarn is preheated with a preheating roller at a speed of 1000 m / min and a temperature of 60 ° C., A drawing heat treatment was performed between a preheating roller and a heating roller heated to a temperature of 150 ° C. at a speed of 3050 m / min, and wound to obtain 84 dtex / 24 fil composite fiber. The composite fiber had a breaking strength of 3.4 cN / dtex and a breaking elongation of 40%. Further, when the crimp rate was measured by performing boiling water treatment on the composite fiber, the crimp rate DC when dried was 3.3%, the crimp rate HC when wet was 1.6%, and the crimp rate when dried. The difference between the rate DC and the crimp rate HC when wet (DC-HC) was 1.7%.

Next, a normal polyethylene terephthalate multifilament false twist crimped yarn (84 dtex / 72 fil) with a crimp rate of 20% was prepared by applying a twist of 600 times / m in the S direction. On the other hand, for wefts, the composite fiber was twisted 1200 times / m in the S direction and then twisted for 30 minutes at a temperature of 70 ° C. was prepared. Then, using a normal lapier loom, weaving was performed with a plain structure at a weaving density of 105 / 2.54 cm and a weft density of 83 / 2.54 cm to obtain a woven fabric.
Then, after carrying out a refining treatment for 1 minute at a temperature of 80 ° C., the fabric is subjected to a normal dyeing process at a temperature of 130 ° C. and a keeping time of 15 minutes, and the latent crimping performance of the composite fiber is revealed. A dry heat final set was applied at a temperature of 160 ° C. for 1 minute.

In the obtained woven fabric, the cover factor CF was 1953. Moreover, the judgment grade (A1) at the time of drying is the second grade, the grade judgment after taking out from the constant temperature and humidity layer (judgment grade after moisture absorption (A2)) is the fourth grade, and the second grade It was recoverable. Further, in the composite fiber extracted from the woven fabric, the crimp rate DCF at the time of drying is 64%, the crimp rate HCF at the time of moisture absorption is 32%, and the crimp rate difference between the time of drying and moisture absorption (DC F −HC F ) Was 32%. Moreover, it was 1215 T / m when the twist number of the composite fiber extracted from this textile fabric was measured.
Next, when the sewed blouse was used to sew the blouse, the sash was applied to the sack, and the sewage was easily recovered by moisture in the bathroom after bathing.

[Comparative Example 1]
Nylon 6 having an intrinsic viscosity [η] of 1.3 and modified polyethylene terephthalate copolymerized with 2.6 mol% of 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid having an intrinsic viscosity [η] of 0.48 are each 270 ° C. The melt was melted at 290 ° C. and extruded at a discharge rate of 12.7 g / min using a composite spinneret similar to that shown in FIG. 1 of JP-A No. 2000-144518. After forming a side-by-side type composite fiber having a shape, cooling and solidifying, and applying an oil agent, the yarn is preheated with a preheating roller at a speed of 1000 m / min and a temperature of 60 ° C., and then the preheating roller and a speed of 2700 m / min. Then, a drawing heat treatment was performed between heating rollers heated to a temperature of 150 ° C., and winding was performed to obtain 84 dtex / 24 fil composite fiber. The composite fiber had a breaking strength of 2.3 cN / dtex and a breaking elongation of 41%. Further, when the crimp rate was measured by performing boiling water treatment on the composite fiber, the crimp rate DC when dried was 1.2%, the crimp rate HC when wet was 3.9%, and the crimp rate when dried. The difference (DC−HC) between the rate DC and the crimp rate HC when wet was −2.7%.

Next, a woven fabric was woven using the above-mentioned conjugate fiber in the same manner as in Example 1, and then dyeing, water repellent, and dry heat final set were performed.
In the obtained woven fabric, the cover factor CF was 1894. In addition, the judgment grade (A1) at the time of drying is grade 2, and the grade judgment after taking out from the constant temperature and humidity layer (judgment grade after moisture absorption (A2)) is grade 3. It was. Further, in the composite fibers withdrawn from said textile, percentage of crimp DC F 56% during drying, percentage of crimp HC F when moisture 62%, percentage of crimp difference during dry and moisture (DC F -HC F ) was -6%. Moreover, it was 1210 T / m when the twist number of the composite fiber extracted from this textile fabric was measured.

[Comparative Example 2]
Example 1 was the same as Example 1 except that the fabric structure was changed to five satin and the cover factor CF of the finally obtained fabric was increased to 3450.
In the obtained woven fabric, the judgment grade (A1) at the time of drying is the second grade, the grade judgment after taking out from the constant temperature and humidity layer (judgment grade after moisture absorption (A2)) is the third grade, It was recoverable.

  According to the present invention, a woven fabric including a composite fiber in which a polyester component and a polyamide component are bonded in a side-by-side manner, and a woven fabric having a performance in which wrinkles provided by use are easily recovered by moisture absorption, and the woven fabric are used. And the industrial value is extremely great.

It is a figure which shows typically the evaluation method of wrinkle recovery property. It is a standard photo of recovery judgment.

Explanation of symbols

1: Cylindrical 2: Load 3: Sample

Claims (11)

  1. A woven fabric containing a composite fiber in which a polyester component and a polyamide component are bonded side-by-side in an amount of 20% by weight or more based on the total weight of the woven fabric, and the composite fiber extracted from the woven fabric has a crimped structure. cage, said DC F (%) the percentage of crimp upon drying of the composite fiber, when the percentage of crimp moisture absorption and HC F (%), a DC F -HC F ≧ 5 (% ), and textiles A fabric having a cover factor CF of 3300 or less.
    However, during drying, the sample is left for 24 hours in a temperature of 20 ° C. and humidity of 65% RH. On the other hand, when moisture is absorbed, the sample is placed in a temperature of 30 ° C. and humidity of 90% RH. This is the state after standing for 24 hours, and the cover factor CF is defined by the following equation.
    CF = (DWp / 1.1) 1/2 × MWp + (DWf / 1.1) 1/2 × MWf
    [DWp is the total warp fineness (dtex), MWp is the warp weave density (main / 2.54 cm), DWf is the total weft fineness (dtex), and MWf is the weft weave density (main / 2.54 cm). ]
  2.   The textile fabric according to claim 1, wherein the polyester component is a modified polyester copolymerized with 2.0 to 4.5 mol% of 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid.
  3.   The woven fabric according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the composite fiber is a twisted yarn subjected to a twist of 600 T / m or more.
  4.   The woven fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the woven fabric is composed of the composite fiber and other fibers.
  5.   The woven fabric according to claim 4, wherein the composite fiber is disposed on one of the warp and the weft and the other fiber is disposed on the other.
  6.   The woven fabric according to claim 4, wherein the composite fiber and the other fibers are arranged alternately one by one or plurally as constituent yarns of the woven fabric.
  7.   The woven fabric according to claim 4, wherein the conjugate fiber and the other fibers are included in the woven fabric as a core-sheath type composite yarn in which the conjugate fiber is located in the core portion and the other fibers are located in the sheath portion.
  8.   The woven fabric according to any one of claims 4 to 7, wherein the other fibers are polyester fibers.
  9.   The woven fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 8, which is dyed.
  10. The woven fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 9, wherein the wrinkle recovery property of the woven fabric by moisture absorption is 2 or more.
    However, the wrinkle recovery property of the woven fabric shall be measured by the following method. First, in an atmosphere of temperature 20 ° C. and humidity 65% RH, three test pieces (rectangles) having a length of 8 cm and a length of 25 cm are collected as test pieces in the same direction as the fabric, and 1 cm on the short side is sewn into a ring shape. Thereafter, as shown in FIG. 1, after passing the test piece to the bottom of a cylinder having a diameter of 6 cm, a cylindrical load of 39.2 N (4 kgf) is further applied so that the test piece is closely attached to the cylinder from above, and brazed for 30 minutes. I do. After dewetting, the test piece is unwound and left for 3 hours, and then the test piece is compared with the judgment standard photograph shown in FIG. 2 to make a judgment grade (A1) when drying. Thereafter, the test piece is placed in a constant temperature and humidity layer at a temperature of 30 ° C. and a relative humidity of 90% for 1 hour, taken out, and the state of wrinkles after 1 hour has passed is again compared with the above judgment standard photograph for comparison and judgment. It is set as the judgment grade (A2) after moisture absorption. And wrinkle recovery property is computed by the following formula.
    Wrinkle recovery (class) = (judgment class after moisture absorption (A2)) − (judgment class during drying (A1))
  11.   A textile product selected from the group consisting of an outer garment, a blouse, a dress shirt, and a Y-shirt, wherein the textile according to any one of claims 1 to 10 is used.
JP2007209411A 2007-08-10 2007-08-10 Woven fabric and textile product Pending JP2009041148A (en)

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Citations (6)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
JPH073554A (en) * 1993-06-17 1995-01-06 Asahi Chem Ind Co Ltd Production of false-twisted hollow polyester yarn
JP2003041462A (en) * 2001-07-24 2003-02-13 Teijin Ltd Woven/knitted fabric with air self-regulating permeability function
JP2005264389A (en) * 2004-03-19 2005-09-29 Teijin Fibers Ltd Woven fabric and textile product with air permeability improved in wet condition
JP2006097176A (en) * 2004-09-29 2006-04-13 Teijin Fibers Ltd Water repellent woven or knitted fabric and fiber product in which air permeability is improved when moistened
JP2006097147A (en) * 2004-09-28 2006-04-13 Teijin Fibers Ltd Woven or knitted fabric and fiber product in which air permeability is improved when moistened
JP2006118062A (en) * 2004-10-19 2006-05-11 Teijin Fibers Ltd Woven/knitted fabric reducing its porosity when wetted, and method for producing the same, and related textile product

Patent Citations (6)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
JPH073554A (en) * 1993-06-17 1995-01-06 Asahi Chem Ind Co Ltd Production of false-twisted hollow polyester yarn
JP2003041462A (en) * 2001-07-24 2003-02-13 Teijin Ltd Woven/knitted fabric with air self-regulating permeability function
JP2005264389A (en) * 2004-03-19 2005-09-29 Teijin Fibers Ltd Woven fabric and textile product with air permeability improved in wet condition
JP2006097147A (en) * 2004-09-28 2006-04-13 Teijin Fibers Ltd Woven or knitted fabric and fiber product in which air permeability is improved when moistened
JP2006097176A (en) * 2004-09-29 2006-04-13 Teijin Fibers Ltd Water repellent woven or knitted fabric and fiber product in which air permeability is improved when moistened
JP2006118062A (en) * 2004-10-19 2006-05-11 Teijin Fibers Ltd Woven/knitted fabric reducing its porosity when wetted, and method for producing the same, and related textile product

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