JP2006097176A - Water repellent woven or knitted fabric and fiber product in which air permeability is improved when moistened - Google Patents

Abstract

<P>PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To provide a water-repellent woven or knitted fabric and a fiber product in which air permeability is improved in good performance at the time when moistened, compared with the time when dried and to provide a method for producing the woven or knitted fabric. <P>SOLUTION: Melt spinning is carried out in side by side type by using a modified polyester in which 2.0-4.5 mol% 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid having 0.30-0.43 intrinsic viscosity is copolymerized and a polyamide having 1.0-1.4 intrinsic viscosity to afford a conjugate fiber and a woven or knitted fabric is formed so that air permeability at the time when dried becomes ≤50 cc/cm<SP>2</SP>/s by using the conjugate fiber and heat treatment such as dyeing and finishing of the woven or knitted fabric is carried out. As a result, crimping of the conjugate fiber is carried out to provide a woven or knitted fabric satisfying the formula: DC<SB>F</SB>-HC<SB>F</SB>≥10(%) when crimp percent obtained when the conjugate fiber is dried is defined as DC<SB>F</SB>(%) and crimp percent obtained when the conjugate fiber is moistened is defined as HC<SB>F</SB>(%) and then water-repellent finishing is applied to the woven or knitted fabric. <P>COPYRIGHT: (C)2006,JPO&NCIPI

Description

  The present invention relates to a water-repellent woven or knitted fabric that can reduce stuffiness caused by sweating. More specifically, the water-repellent woven or knitted fabric includes a composite fiber in which a polyester component and a polyamide component are bonded side-by-side, and the air permeability of the woven or knitted fabric at the time of moisture absorption is improved reversibly and better than that at the time of drying. The present invention relates to a water-based knitted fabric and a textile product.

  Conventionally, water-repellent knitted fabrics have been used for sports clothing such as ski wear, windbreakers, outdoor wear, and outer clothing such as raincoats and gentleman / woman coats.

  As such a water-repellent woven or knitted fabric, a water-repellent woven or knitted fabric obtained by subjecting a high-density woven or knitted fabric made of polyester fiber or nylon fiber to water-repellent finishing, film coating, film lamination, or the like is known.

  However, the water-repellent woven or knitted fabric with film coating or film lamination has excellent water resistance, but there is almost no breathability, so there is a problem of feeling uncomfortable when sweating because the stuffy air in the clothes is not discharged. . In addition, the water-repellent woven or knitted fabric with water-repellent finishing applied to the high-density fabric makes it easy for the air in the garment to be discharged, but does not eliminate the stuffiness in the garment. In this case, there is a problem that the inside of the clothes becomes dull and uncomfortable.

  As a method of eliminating the stuffiness caused by sweating, the air permeability of the woven or knitted fabric is effectively released during sweating, thereby effectively releasing moisture staying in the garment. A breathable self-regulating woven or knitted fabric has been proposed that can suppress cold due to excessive diffusion of moisture by lowering and can always keep comfort.

  For example, Patent Document 1 proposes a breathable self-regulating woven or knitted fabric using a side-by-side type composite fiber in which different polymers of polyester and polyamide are bonded together. However, in such a woven or knitted fabric, although the breathability during moisture absorption is improved reversibly as compared with that during drying, the change in the breathability is small, and the proposal of a breathable self-adjusting woven or knitted fabric with better performance is recommended. It is rare.

  In addition, as the breathable self-regulating woven or knitted fabric, one made of a hygroscopic polymer and using twisted synthetic fiber multifilament yarn (for example, see Patent Document 2) or one using acetate fiber (for example, Patent Document 3) has also been proposed.

  In addition, in the Japanese Patent Application No. 2004-256628, the present inventors have proposed a composite fiber in which a polyester component and a polyamide component are joined, and capable of obtaining a high-performance breathable self-regulating woven or knitted fabric. is doing.

JP 2003-41462 A Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 10-77544 JP 2002-180323 A

  The present invention has been made in view of the above-described background, and an object of the present invention is a water-repellent woven or knitted fabric including a composite fiber in which a polyester component and a polyamide component are joined in a side-by-side manner. The object of the present invention is to provide a water-repellent woven or knitted fabric and a textile product whose properties are reversibly improved with better performance than when dried.

  As a result of intensive studies to achieve the above-mentioned problems, the present inventors have extracted from a woven or knitted fabric when knitting a water-repellent woven or knitted fabric using side-by-side type composite fibers bonded with different polymers of polyester and polyamide. When the composite fiber has a crimped structure in which latent crimping performance is expressed and has a specific crimp rate at the time of moisture absorption and drying, a desired water-repellent knitted fabric and fiber product can be obtained. The present invention has been completed by finding out that it can be obtained and by further intensive studies.

Thus, according to the present invention, “a woven or knitted fabric containing 10% by weight or more of a composite fiber in which a polyester component and a polyamide component are bonded side-by-side with respect to the total weight of the woven or knitted fabric. The composite fiber that has been processed and has a breathability of 50 cc / cm ² / s or less during drying, and has a crimped structure in which latent crimping performance is exhibited, is obtained from the woven or knitted fabric. and has, _DC F (%) the percentage of crimp upon drying of the composite fibers, when the percentage of crimp moisture absorption and _HC F _(%), that it is a _{DC F -HC F ≧ 10 (%} ) A water-repellent woven or knitted fabric with improved air permeability when absorbing moisture is provided.

  However, during drying, the sample is left for 24 hours in a temperature of 20 ° C. and humidity of 65% RH. On the other hand, when moisture is absorbed, the sample is placed in a temperature of 30 ° C. and humidity of 90% RH. This is the state after being left for 24 hours.

  Here, the polyester component is preferably a modified polyester obtained by copolymerizing 2.0 to 4.5 mol% of 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid. Such a composite fiber is preferably a non-twisted yarn or a sweet twisted yarn subjected to a twist of 300 T / m or less.

  The woven or knitted fabric of the present invention is a composite fiber and a fiber other than the composite fiber (that is, a crimped fiber in which the crimp rate does not substantially change during non-crimping or moisture absorption, and hereinafter simply referred to as “other fiber”. May also be configured). At that time, it is preferable that the warp direction and / or the weft direction stretch rate of the woven or knitted fabric is 10% or more.

  In the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention, the woven or knitted fabric is a multi-layered woven or knitted fabric having two or more layers, and at least one layer of the woven or knitted fabric is 30% by weight or more of the total fiber weight constituting the layer. Fibers may be included. Moreover, the composite fiber and other fibers may form a composite loop of a circular knitted structure. Further, the above-described composite fiber and other fibers may be arranged and arranged on the warp and / or the weft of the woven structure. Moreover, the said composite fiber and another fiber may be distribute | arranged by turns one by one or multiple turns as a constituent yarn of a woven / knitted fabric, respectively. Furthermore, the composite fiber and other fibers may be included in the woven or knitted fabric as a core-sheath type composite yarn in which the composite fiber is located in the core and the other fibers are located in the sheath. In addition, it is preferable that another fiber is a polyester fiber.

  The woven or knitted fabric of the present invention is preferably subjected to a dyeing process. Moreover, it is preferable that the air permeability of the woven or knitted fabric at the time of moisture absorption is 30% or more higher than that at the time of drying.

  The woven or knitted fabric of the present invention can be suitably used for textile products such as outer clothing, sports clothing, and inner clothing.

  According to the present invention, it is possible to obtain a water-repellent woven or knitted fabric whose air permeability is reversibly improved when performing moisture absorption as compared with drying. When such a water-repellent woven or knitted fabric is used as an outer garment, a sports garment, an inner garment or the like, moisture retention in the garment is effectively released by improving the air permeability of the woven or knitted fabric during sweating. When the suspending is stopped, the air permeability of the woven or knitted fabric is lowered, so that the cold due to excessive diffusion of moisture is suppressed, and a comfortable wearing feeling can always be maintained.

Hereinafter, embodiments of the present invention will be described in detail.
In the present invention, the composite fiber is composed of a polyester component and a polyamide component, and both components are joined in a side-by-side manner.

  Here, as the polyester component, a compound having one or more functional groups having an alkali or alkaline earth metal or phosphonium salt of sulfonic acid and having an ester forming ability in terms of adhesiveness to the other polyamide component. Preferred examples thereof include modified polyesters such as polyethylene terephthalate, polypropylene terephthalate, and polybutylene terephthalate. Among these, modified polyethylene terephthalate obtained by copolymerizing the above compound is particularly preferable from the viewpoint of versatility and polymer cost. In this case, examples of the copolymer component include 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid and ester derivatives thereof, 5-phosphonium isophthalic acid and ester derivatives thereof, and sodium p-hydroxybenzenesulfonate. Of these, 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid is preferable. As a copolymerization amount, the range of 2.0-4.5 mol% is preferable. When the copolymerization amount is less than 2.0 mol%, although excellent crimping performance can be obtained, there is a possibility that peeling occurs at the bonding interface between the polyamide component and the polyester component. On the other hand, if the copolymerization amount is greater than 4.5 mol%, the crystallization of the polyester component becomes difficult to proceed during the stretching heat treatment, and thus it is necessary to raise the stretching heat treatment temperature. There is a risk.

  One polyamide component is not particularly limited as long as it has an amide bond in the main chain, and examples thereof include nylon-4, nylon-6, nylon-66, nylon-46, nylon-12, and the like. can give. Among these, nylon-6 and nylon-66 are preferable in terms of versatility, polymer cost, and yarn production stability.

  The polyester component and the polyamide component include known additives such as pigments, pigments, matting agents, antifouling agents, fluorescent whitening agents, flame retardants, stabilizers, antistatic agents, light-resistant agents, and ultraviolet absorption agents. An agent or the like may be included.

  The composite fiber joined to the side-by-side type can take any cross-sectional shape and composite form. FIG. 1 illustrates an enlarged cross-sectional view of a composite fiber bonded to a side-by-side type used in the present invention. Usually, a composite fiber having a cross section like (A) or (B) is used, but an eccentric core-sheath type like (C) may be used. Furthermore, you may have a hollow part in the triangle, the square, and the cross section. In particular, as shown in FIG. 1A, a round shape is preferable because air permeability is improved when moisture is absorbed. Although the composite ratio of both components can be selected arbitrarily, it is usually in the range of 30:70 to 70:30 (more preferably 40:60 to 60:40) by weight ratio of the polyester component and the polyamide component. It is preferable.

  The single yarn fineness and the number of single yarns (number of filaments) of the composite fiber are not particularly limited, but the single yarn fineness is 1 to 10 dtex (more preferably 2 to 5 dtex), and the number of single yarns is 10 to 200 (more preferably 20 to 100). ) Is preferable.

  Moreover, the composite fiber contained in the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention needs to have a crimped structure in which latent crimping performance is expressed. A composite fiber in which different types of polymers are joined in a side-by-side manner usually has latent crimping performance, and the latent crimping performance is manifested when subjected to heat treatment such as dyeing as described later. As the crimped structure, it is preferable that the polyamide component is located inside the crimp and the polyester component is located outside the crimp. The composite fiber having such a crimped structure can be easily obtained by the production method described later. When the composite fiber has such a crimped structure, the inner polyamide component swells and stretches during moisture absorption, and the outer polyester component hardly undergoes a change in length, resulting in a lower crimp rate ( The apparent length of the composite fiber is increased.) On the other hand, at the time of drying, the inner polyamide component shrinks and the outer polyester component hardly changes in length, so that the crimp rate increases (the apparent length of the composite fiber becomes shorter). Thus, since the crimp rate of the composite fiber is reversibly lowered during moisture absorption, the porosity in the woven or knitted fabric is increased, and air permeability is improved.

The air permeability is a value (cc / cm ² / s) measured according to JIS L 1096-1998, 6.27.1, A (Fragile type air permeability tester method). It is important that the air permeability is higher than the time. In that case, it is preferable that the air permeability at the time of moisture absorption is 30% or more (preferably 80 to 500%) higher than the air permeability at the time of drying. If the rate of change in air permeability is less than 30%, the problem of stuffiness may occur when sweating.

However, the change rate of air permeability is calculated by the following formula.
Percent change in breathability (%) = ((breathability during moisture absorption) − (breathability during drying)) / (breathability during drying) × 100

  The above-mentioned composite fiber is preferably a non-twisted yarn or a sweet twisted yarn subjected to twisting of 300 T / m or less in order to easily reduce crimp and improve the air permeability when moisture is absorbed. In particular, non-twisted yarn is preferable. When a strong twist is imparted like a strongly twisted yarn, it is not preferable that crimping is difficult to decrease during moisture absorption. It should be noted that interlaced air processing and / or normal false twist crimping may be performed so that the number of entanglements is about 20 to 60 pieces / m.

  The woven or knitted fabric of the present invention contains the above-described conjugate fiber. At that time, it is important that the content of the composite fiber contained in the woven or knitted fabric is 10% by weight or more (more preferably 40% by weight or more) based on the total weight of the woven or knitted fabric. If the content of the composite fiber is less than 10% by weight, the air permeability may not be improved with good performance during moisture absorption.

  When the woven or knitted fabric is composed of the composite fiber and fibers other than the composite fiber, the other fibers are not particularly limited, and polyesters such as polyethylene terephthalate, polytrimethylene terephthalate, and polybutylene terephthalate. Suitable for clothing such as polyamides such as nylon 6 and nylon 66, polyolefins such as polyethylene and polypropylene, acrylic, para-type or meta-type aramid, and modified synthetic fibers thereof, as well as natural fibers, regenerated fibers, and semi-synthetic fibers Any fiber can be selected. Among these, polyethylene terephthalate, polypropylene terephthalate, polybutylene terephthalate, and the above-mentioned in terms of dimensional stability when wet and compatibility with the above-mentioned composite fiber (mixing property, knit / woven fabric, dyeability) A polyester fiber made of a modified polyester in which a copolymer component is copolymerized is preferable. Further, the single yarn fineness and the number of single yarns (number of filaments) of such other fibers are not particularly limited. However, in order to increase the hygroscopicity of the woven or knitted fabric and improve the air permeability at the time of moisture absorption, the single yarn fineness is 0.1. It is preferable to be within a range of ˜5 dtex (more preferably 0.5 to 2 dtex) and a single yarn number of 20 to 200 (more preferably 30 to 100). It should be noted that interlaced air processing and / or normal false twist crimping may be applied to other fibers so that the number of entanglements is about 20 to 60 pieces / m.

  When the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention includes the above-mentioned composite fiber and other fibers, each of them may constitute a woven or knitted fabric with a single yarn, or an air-mixed yarn, a twisted yarn, or a composite false twisted crimp. The knitted or knitted fabric may be configured as a composite yarn such as processed yarn or assorted yarn.

  As the structure of the woven or knitted fabric, the woven or knitted structure and the number of layers are not particularly limited. For example, woven structures such as plain weave, twill weave, and satin, and knitted structures such as tenshi, smooth, milling, kanoko, knitting yarn, denby, and half are preferably exemplified, but not limited thereto. The number of layers may be a single layer or a multilayer of two or more layers.

  In the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention, in order to ensure the mobility (crimp change) of the composite fiber in the woven or knitted fabric, the warp and / or weft stretch ratio is 10% or more (more preferably 20% or more, particularly preferably). Is preferably 25 to 150%.

Next, in the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention, the conjugate fiber extracted from the woven or knitted fabric has a crimped structure in which a latent crimping performance is expressed, and the crimped rate when the conjugate fiber is dried is set. DC _F (%), when the percentage of crimp moisture absorption and _{HC F (%), DC F} -HC F ≧ 10 (%) ( _{preferably, 50 (%) ≧ DC F} -HC F ≧ 10 (% )) Is essential. If DC _F -HC _F is less than 10%, the air permeability may not be improved when hygroscopic compared with the case of drying, which is not preferable.

Here, the crimp rate of the composite fiber in the woven or knitted fabric is measured by the following method. First, after leaving the woven or knitted fabric to stand in an atmosphere of a temperature of 20 ° C. and a humidity of 65% RH for 24 hours, a small piece of 30 cm × 30 cm in the same direction as the woven or knitted fabric is cut from the woven or knitted fabric (n number = 5). Subsequently, the composite fiber was taken out from each piece, and the yarn length L0f was measured by applying a load of 1.76 mN / dtex (200 mg / de), and after 1 minute of dewetting, 0.0176 mN / dtex (2 mg / de). A load is applied to measure the yarn length L1f. Further, this yarn was allowed to stand for 24 hours in a temperature of 30 ° C. and a humidity of 90% RH, and then the yarn length L0f ′ was measured by applying a load of 1.76 mN / dtex (200 mg / de). The yarn length L1f ′ is measured under a load of 0.176 mN / dtex (2 mg / de). More of at equation below from the measured numerical percentage of crimp _DC F (%) upon drying, crimp ratio _HC F (%) at the time of moisture absorption, dry and crimp ratio difference during moisture absorption (DC _F - HC _F ) (%) is calculated. Note that n is 5 and the average value is obtained.
Crimp rate during drying DC _F (%) = ((L0f−L1f) / L0f) × 100
Crimp rate at the time of moisture absorption HC _F (%) = (L0f′−L1f ′) / L0f ′) × 100

  Further, the water-repellent woven or knitted fabric of the present invention needs to be water-repellent. Such water repellent treatment may be a normal one. For example, the methods described in Japanese Patent No. 3133227 and Japanese Patent Publication No. 4-5786 are suitable. That is, a commercially available fluorine-based water repellent (for example, Asahi Guard LS-317, manufactured by Asahi Glass Co., Ltd.) is used as the water repellent, and the concentration of the water repellent is adjusted by mixing melamine resin and catalyst as necessary. In this method, the surface of the woven or knitted fabric is treated with the processing agent at a pickup rate of about 50 to 90% with a processing agent of about 3 to 15% by weight. Examples of the method for treating the surface of the woven or knitted fabric with the processing agent include a pad method and a spray method. Among them, the pad method is most preferable for allowing the processing agent to penetrate into the woven or knitted fabric.

  In addition, the said pick-up rate is a weight ratio (%) with respect to the woven / knitted fabric (before processing agent provision) weight of a processing agent.

  The water repellency of the woven or knitted fabric after the water repellent processing is preferably 4 points or more, more preferably 5 points (highest point) in JIS L 1092 6.2 (spray test).

Next, in the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention, the air permeability at the time of drying was measured according to JIS L 1096-1998, 6.27.1, A (Fragile type air permeability tester method) (cc / cm ² / s) and 50 cc / cm ² / s or less (preferably 5 to 40 cc / cm ² / s). If the air permeability is larger than 50 cc / cm ² / s, the windproof property is insufficient, so that it is not suitable for sports clothing and outer clothing, and water resistance is insufficient even when water repellent treatment is applied. There is a risk.

  In order to make the air permeability within the above range, the density of the woven or knitted fabric may be optimized. For example, when the total fineness of the yarn is 84 dtex, if it is a woven fabric, the warp density (main / 2.54 cm) × the weft density (main / 2.54 cm) is 6000 or more. /2.54 cm) × Wale density (lines / 2.54 cm) and 3000 or more.

  In the present invention, the mode of the woven or knitted fabric is as follows. (1) The woven or knitted fabric is a multilayered woven or knitted fabric having two or more layers, and at least one layer of the woven or knitted fabric is 30% by weight of the total fiber constituting the layer. A woven or knitted fabric containing the composite fiber as described above, (2) a woven or knitted fabric in which the composite fiber and other fibers form a composite loop of a circular knitted structure, and (3) the composite fiber and others. A woven or knitted fabric in which the fibers of the woven fabric are arranged and arranged on the warp and / or the weft of the woven structure, (4) each of the above-mentioned composite fibers and the other fibers are used as constituent yarns of the woven or knitted fabric. A woven or knitted fabric in which a plurality of yarns are alternately arranged. (5) The composite fiber and the other fiber are woven as a core-sheath type composite yarn in which the composite fiber is located in the core portion and the other fibers are located in the sheath portion. Examples thereof include woven and knitted fabrics included in the knitted fabric.

  Further, when the woven / knitted fabric contains the composite fiber and other fibers, when drying, the yarn length of the composite fiber is (A) and the yarn length of the other fiber is (B). If it becomes, it is easy to improve air permeability at the time of moisture absorption, and it is preferable. On the other hand, when A> B or A = B, when the composite fiber is stretched due to a decrease in the crimp rate due to moisture absorption, there is no clearance and other fibers cannot follow, so the porosity of the woven or knitted fabric decreases. As a result, the air permeability may not be improved when moisture is absorbed.

  Here, the yarn length is measured by the following method. First, after leaving the woven or knitted fabric to stand in an atmosphere of a temperature of 20 ° C. and a humidity of 65% RH for 24 hours, a 30 cm × 30 cm small piece is cut from the woven or knitted fabric (n number = 5). Subsequently, the composite fiber yarn and other fiber yarns are taken out one by one from each piece, and the yarn length A (mm) of the composite fiber yarn and the yarn length B (mm) of the other fiber yarn are measured. . At that time, in the case of an inelastic yarn, the load is 1.76 mN / dtex (200 mg / de), and in the case of an elastic yarn, a load of 0.0088 mN / dtex (1 mg / de) is applied. Here, the composite fiber yarn taken out from the small piece and the other fiber yarn need to be in the same direction in the woven or knitted fabric. For example, when the composite fiber yarn is taken out from the warp (weft) of the fabric, the other fiber yarn needs to be taken out from the warp (weft). When the composite fiber yarn and other fiber yarns constitute a woven or knitted fabric as the composite yarn, the composite yarn is taken out from the cut pieces (30 cm × 30 cm) (n number = 5), and further the composite yarn The composite fiber yarn and other fiber yarn are taken out from the above and measured in the same manner as described above.

  As described above, the following method is exemplified as a method for obtaining a yarn length difference between a composite fiber yarn and another fiber yarn. For example, when the woven or knitted fabric is knitted or woven using a composite fiber yarn and another fiber yarn, the boiling water shrinkage of the other fiber yarn is 15% or less (more preferably 10% or less). Examples thereof include a method and a method of overfeeding other fiber yarns when composite processing of the composite fiber yarns and other fiber yarns is performed.

In woven or knitted fabric of the present invention, in order to ensure mobility of the conjugate fiber of the woven or knitted fabric (crimped change), it is preferred basis weight is 300 g / ^{m 2} or less (more preferably 100 to 250 g / ^{m 2).}

The woven or knitted fabric of the present invention can be easily obtained by the following production method.
First, a modified polyester having an intrinsic viscosity of 0.30 to 0.43 (measured at 35 ° C. using orthochlorophenol as a solvent) and 2.0 to 4.5 mol% of 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid copolymerized; Using a polyamide having an intrinsic viscosity of 1.0 to 1.4 (measured at 30 ° C. using m-cresol as a solvent), melt composite spinning is performed in a side-by-side manner. At that time, it is particularly important that the intrinsic viscosity of the polyester component is 0.43 or less. If the intrinsic viscosity of the polyester component is larger than 0.43, the viscosity of the polyester component increases, so that the physical properties of the composite fiber are close to those of a single polyester yarn, and the woven or knitted fabric intended by the present invention cannot be obtained. On the other hand, if the intrinsic viscosity of the polyester component is less than 0.30, the melt viscosity becomes too small and the yarn-making property is lowered and the generation of fluff is increased, which may reduce the quality and productivity.

  As the spinneret used for melt spinning, as shown in FIG. 1 of JP-A-2000-144518, the high-viscosity side and low-viscosity side discharge holes are separated and the high-viscosity side discharge linear velocity is reduced ( A spinneret having a large discharge cross-sectional area is preferred. Then, it is preferable that the molten polyester is passed through the high viscosity side discharge holes and the molten polyamide is passed through the low viscosity side discharge holes to be cooled and solidified. In that case, it is preferable that the weight ratio of a polyester component and a polyamide component exists in the range of 30: 70-70: 30 (more preferably 40: 60-60: 40) as above-mentioned.

  Further, after the melt composite spinning, a separate stretching method in which the film is once wound and then stretched may be employed, or a direct stretching method in which a stretching heat treatment is performed without winding once may be employed. At that time, the spinning and drawing conditions may be normal conditions. For example, in the case of the direct extension method, after spinning at about 1000 to 3500 m / min, the film is continuously drawn and wound at a temperature of 100 to 150 ° C. The draw ratio may be appropriately selected so that the cut elongation of the composite fiber obtained at the end is 10 to 60% (preferably 20 to 45%) and the cut strength is about 3.0 to 4.7 cN / dtex.

Here, it is preferable that the composite fiber satisfies the following requirements (1) and (2) at the same time.
(1) The crimp ratio DC of the composite fiber at the time of drying is in the range of 1.5 to 13% (preferably 2 to 6%).
(2) The difference (DC-HC) between the crimp rate DC and the crimp rate HC of the composite fiber when wet is 0.5% or more (preferably 1 to 5%).

  However, when dry, the sample is left in a 20 ° C., 65% RH environment for 24 hours, while when wet, the sample is immediately immersed in water at 20 ° C. for 2 hours. In this state, the crimping rate DC at the time of drying and the crimping rate HC at the time of wetness are values measured by the following methods.

First, using a rewind frame with a frame circumference of 1.125 m, a load was applied at 49/50 mN × 9 × total tex (0.1 gf × total denier) at a constant speed, and the number of turns was 10 times. , Twisted into a double ring, and put it in boiling water for 30 minutes with initial load of 49 / 2500mN x 20 x 9 x total tex (2mg x 20 x total denier) Then, after the boiling water treatment, it is dried for 30 minutes in a dryer at 100 ° C., and is further placed in a dry heat of 160 ° C. for 5 minutes with the initial load applied. After the dry heat treatment, the initial load was removed and the sample was allowed to stand for 24 hours or more in a temperature of 20 ° C. and a humidity of 65% RH. Then, the initial load and 98/50 mN × 20 × 9 × total tex (0.2 gf × 20 × Apply a heavy load of total denier), measure the heel length: L0, immediately remove only the heavy load, and measure the heel length: L1 after 1 minute of dewetting. Further, the soot was immersed in water at a temperature of 20 ° C. for 2 hours with the initial load applied, taken out, and after lightly wiping off the water with a filter paper at a pressure of 0.69 mN / cm ² (70 mgf / cm ² ), the initial load was applied. Then, a heavy load is applied, and the heel length: L0 ′ is measured, and only the heavy load is immediately removed, and the heel length: L1 ′ after 1 minute of dewetting is measured. Based on the above measurement values, the crimping rate during drying (DC), the crimping rate during wetness (HC), and the difference in crimping rate between dry and wet (DC-HC) are calculated using the following formula. .
Crimp rate during drying DC (%) = ((L0−L1) / L0) × 100
Crimp rate HC (%) when wet = (L0′−L1 ′) / L0 ′) × 100
The crimp rate HC of the composite fiber when wet is preferably in the range of 0.5 to 10.0% (preferably 1 to 3%).

  Here, if the crimp ratio DC of the composite fiber at the time of drying is less than 1.5%, the amount of change in crimp at the time of moisture absorption is small, so that the amount of change in air permeability of the woven or knitted fabric may be small. On the contrary, when the crimp ratio DC of the composite fiber at the time of drying is larger than 13%, the crimp is too strong and the crimp does not easily change at the time of moisture absorption, and the change in air permeability of the woven or knitted fabric may also be reduced. is there. In addition, even when the difference (DC-HC) from the crimp ratio HC of the composite fiber during drying is smaller than 0.5%, the air permeability change amount of the woven or knitted fabric may be small.

Subsequently, the composite fiber is used alone or other fibers are used at the same time, and the woven / knitted fabric is knitted by appropriately selecting the woven / knitted fabric density so that the air permeability during drying is 50 cc / cm ² / s or less. Thereafter, the crimp of the composite fiber is expressed by heat treatment such as dyeing.

  Here, when weaving the knitted or knitted fabric, as described above, it is important that the amount is 10% by weight or more (preferably 40% by weight or more) with respect to the total weight of the woven or knitted fabric based on the weight. Further, the woven or knitted structure is not particularly limited, and the above-described one can be selected as appropriate.

  The dyeing temperature is preferably 100 to 140 ° C. (more preferably 110 to 135 ° C.), and the time is preferably the top temperature keeping time within a range of 5 to 40 minutes. By applying a dyeing process to the woven or knitted fabric under such conditions, the composite fiber develops crimp due to a difference in thermal shrinkage between the polyester component and the polyamide component. At that time, by selecting the above-mentioned polymer as the polyester component and the polyamide component, a crimped structure is obtained in which the polyamide component is located inside the crimp.

  A dry heat final set is usually applied to the woven or knitted fabric subjected to the dyeing process. At that time, the temperature of the dry heat final set is preferably 120 to 200 ° C. (more preferably 140 to 180 ° C.), and the time is preferably within a range of 1 to 3 minutes. When the temperature of the dry heat final set is lower than 120 ° C., wrinkles generated during the dyeing process are likely to remain, and the dimensional stability of the finished product may be deteriorated. On the other hand, if the temperature of the dry heat final set is higher than 200 ° C., the crimp of the composite fiber developed during the dyeing process may be reduced, or the fiber may be cured and the texture of the fabric may be hardened.

  Moreover, it is necessary to perform water-repellent finishing on such a woven or knitted fabric. Such water repellent finish may be the usual water repellent finish as described above.

  In the water-repellent woven or knitted fabric thus obtained, the crimp rate of the composite fiber contained in the woven or knitted fabric is reduced in performance at the time of moisture absorption, so that the yarn length of the composite fiber becomes long, resulting in a large gap in the woven or knitted fabric. The breathability is improved. On the other hand, since the crimp rate of the composite fiber increases during drying, the yarn length of the composite fiber is shortened. As a result, the voids in the woven or knitted fabric are reduced and the air permeability is lowered.

  In addition to the above-mentioned processing, the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention includes conventional brushed processing, ultraviolet shielding or antibacterial agent, deodorant, insect repellent, phosphorescent agent, retroreflective agent, negative ion generator, water absorbing agent, etc. Various processings that provide the above function may be additionally applied.

  EXAMPLES Hereinafter, although an Example is given and this invention is demonstrated in detail, this invention is not limited at all by these. In addition, each physical property in an Example is measured with the following method.

<Intrinsic Viscosity of Polyester> Measured at a temperature of 35 ° C. using orthochlorophenol as a solvent.

<Intrinsic viscosity of polyamide> The viscosity was measured at 30 ° C. using m-cresol as a solvent.

<Breaking strength, breaking elongation> After leaving the fiber sample in a room maintained at a constant temperature and humidity of 25 ° C. and a humidity of 60% RH for a day and night, a tensile tester manufactured by Shimadzu Corporation with a sample length of 100 mm It was set on Tensilon, stretched at a speed of 200 mm / min, and the strength at break (cN / dtex) and elongation (%) were measured. In addition, the average value was calculated | required by n number 5.

<Boiling water shrinkage rate> The boiling water shrinkage rate (hot water shrinkage rate) (%) was measured by the method defined in JIS L 1013-1998, 7.15. In addition, the average value was calculated | required by n number 3.

<Crimping rate of composite fiber> Frame circumference: Using a rewind frame of 1.125 m, the load was 49/50 mN × 9 × total tex (0.1 gf × total denier) and wound at a constant speed. : Make 10 gavel and twist it into a double ring shape and put it in boiling water with initial load of 49 / 2500mN x 20 x 9 x total tex (2mg x 20 x total denier) It was treated for 30 minutes, and after the boiling water treatment, it was dried in a dryer at 100 ° C. for 30 minutes, and then further placed in a dry heat of 160 ° C. for 5 minutes with the initial load applied. After the dry heat treatment, the initial load was removed and the sample was allowed to stand for 24 hours or more in a temperature of 20 ° C. and a humidity of 65% RH. Then, the initial load and 98/50 mN × 20 × 9 × total tex (0.2 gf × 20 × A heavy load of (total denier) was applied, the heel length: L0 was measured, only the heavy load was immediately removed, and the heel length: L1 after 1 minute of dewetting was measured. Further, the soot was immersed in water at a temperature of 20 ° C. for 2 hours with the initial load applied, and then taken out. The filter paper (size 30 cm × 30 cm) was applied with a pressure of 0.69 mN / cm ² (70 mgf / cm ² ) for 5 seconds. After lightly wiping off the water, an initial load and a heavy load are applied, and the heel length: L0 ′ is measured. Only the heavy load is removed immediately, and the heel length: L1 ′ after 1 minute of dewetting is measured. From the above measurement values, the following formulas are used to calculate the crimp rate DC (%) at the time of drying, the crimp rate HC (%) at the time of wetness, and the crimp rate difference between the dry and wet conditions (DC-HC) ( %) Was calculated. In addition, the number of n was 5, and the average value was obtained.
Crimp rate during drying DC (%) = ((L0−L1) / L0) × 100
Crimp rate HC (%) when wet = (L0′−L1 ′) / L0 ′) × 100

<Crimping rate of composite fiber in woven / knitted fabric> After leaving the woven / knitted fabric in an atmosphere at a temperature of 20 ° C. and a humidity of 65% RH for 24 hours, a small piece of 30 cm × 30 cm in the same direction as the woven / knitted fabric is cut from the woven / knitted fabric. (N number = 5). Subsequently, the composite fiber was taken out from each piece, and the yarn length L2 was measured by applying a load of 1.76 mN / dtex (200 mg / de). After 1 minute of dewetting, 0.0176 mN / dtex (2 mg / de) A load is applied to measure the yarn length L3. Further, this yarn was allowed to stand for 24 hours in a temperature of 30 ° C. and a humidity of 90% RH, and then the yarn length L2 ′ was measured by applying a load of 1.76 mN / dtex (200 mg / de). The yarn length L3 ′ is measured with a load of 0.176 mN / dtex (2 mg / de). More of at equation below from the measured numerical percentage of crimp _DC F (%) upon drying, crimp ratio _HC F (%) at the time of moisture absorption, dry and crimp ratio difference during moisture absorption (DC _F - HC _F) was calculated (%). In addition, the number of n was 5, and the average value was obtained.
Crimp rate during drying DC _F (%) = ((L0f−L1f) / L1f) × 100
Crimp rate at the time of moisture absorption HC _F (%) = (L0f′−L1f ′) / L1f ′) × 100

<Breathability> According to JIS L 1096-1998, 6.27.1, A (Fragile breathability tester method), the breathability when dried (cc / cm ² / s) and the breathability when wet (cc / cm ² / s) was measured. However, when dry, the sample was left for 24 hours in an environment of 20 ° C. and humidity of 65% RH, and when absorbed, it was left for 24 hours in an environment of 30 ° C. and humidity of 90% RH. Each of the following states was measured for air permeability (n number = 5), and the average was obtained. And the change rate of air permeability was computed by the following formula.
Percent change in breathability (%) = ((breathability during moisture absorption) − (breathability during drying)) / (breathability during drying) × 100

<Elongation ratio of woven / knitted fabric> Except for changing the load to 1/10 (1.47N = 0.15kgf), the same method as JIS L 1096 8.14.1, B method (constant load method) The warp and the stretch rate (%) in the weft direction were determined. In addition, the number of n was 5, and the average value was obtained.

<Measurement of Yarn Length> First, the woven or knitted fabric is left in an atmosphere at a temperature of 20 ° C. and a humidity of 65% RH for 24 hours, and then a 30 cm × 30 cm small piece is cut from the woven or knitted fabric (n number = 5). Subsequently, the composite fiber yarn and other fiber yarns were taken out one by one from each piece, and the yarn length A (mm) of the composite fiber yarn and the yarn length B (mm) of the other fiber yarn were measured. . At that time, in the case of an inelastic yarn, the measurement was performed with a load of 1.76 mN / dtex (200 mg / de), and in the case of an elastic yarn, a load of 0.0088 mN / dtex (1 mg / de). In addition, the number of n was 5, and the average value was obtained.

<Water Repellency> Water repellency was measured according to JIS L 1092 6.2 (spray test).

[Example 1]
Nylon 6 having an intrinsic viscosity [η] of 1.3 and modified polyethylene terephthalate copolymerized with 2.6 mol% of 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid having an intrinsic viscosity [η] of 0.39 are each 270 ° C. The melt was melted at 290 ° C. and extruded at a discharge rate of 12.7 g / min using a composite spinneret similar to that shown in FIG. 1 of JP-A No. 2000-144518. After forming a side-by-side type composite fiber having a shape, cooling and solidifying and applying an oil agent, the yarn is preheated with a preheating roller at a speed of 1000 m / min and a temperature of 60 ° C., and then the preheating roller and a speed of 3050 m / min. Then, a drawing heat treatment was performed between heating rollers heated to a temperature of 150 ° C., and winding was performed to obtain 84 dtex / 24 fil composite fiber. The composite fiber had a breaking strength of 3.4 cN / dtex and a breaking elongation of 40%. Further, when the crimp rate was measured by performing boiling water treatment on the composite fiber, the crimp rate DC when dried was 3.3%, the crimp rate HC when wet was 1.6%, and the crimp rate when dried. The difference between the rate DC and the crimp rate HC when wet (DC-HC) was 1.7%.

  Next, using an ordinary 28-gauge tricot knitting machine, the composite fiber is passed through a back rivet in a full set, and a normal polyethylene terephthalate multifilament false-filament crimped yarn (33 dtex / 36 fil) with a crimp rate of 20% is used. Was passed through the front ridge in a full set, and a knitted fabric having a half structure (back 10-12, front 23-10) and a knitted fabric having a half structure were formed at an on-machine density of 80 courses / 2.54 cm.

  The knitted fabric is dyed at a temperature of 130 ° C. and a keeping time of 15 minutes to reveal the latent crimp performance of the composite fiber, and then padded with a fluororesin-based water repellent liquid, and then 100 ° C. And was subjected to a dry heat final set at a temperature of 160 ° C. for 1 minute.

In the obtained knitted fabric, the basis weight is 220 g / m ² , the warp direction stretch rate is 13%, the weft direction stretch rate is 30%, the water repellency is 5 points, the air permeability during drying is 45 cc / cm ² / s, and the air permeability when moisture is absorbed. The air permeability was greatly improved at 64 cc / cm ² / s and the air permeability change rate was 42%, which was satisfactory. Further, in the composite fiber was drawn from the knitted product, percentage of crimp DC _F 64% during drying, percentage of crimp HC _F during moisture absorption 32%, crimp index difference in drying time and moisture _(DC F -HC _F ) was 32%.

[Comparative Example 1]
Nylon 6 having an intrinsic viscosity [η] of 1.3 and modified polyethylene terephthalate copolymerized with 2.6 mol% of 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid having an intrinsic viscosity [η] of 0.48 are each 270 ° C. The melt was melted at 290 ° C. and extruded at a discharge rate of 12.7 g / min using a composite spinneret similar to that shown in FIG. 1 of JP-A No. 2000-144518. After forming a side-by-side type composite fiber having a shape, cooling and solidifying, and applying an oil agent, the yarn is preheated with a preheating roller at a speed of 1000 m / min and a temperature of 60 ° C., and then the preheating roller and a speed of 2700 m / min. Then, a drawing heat treatment was performed between heating rollers heated to a temperature of 150 ° C., and winding was performed to obtain 84 dtex / 24 fil composite fiber. The composite fiber had a breaking strength of 2.3 cN / dtex and a breaking elongation of 41%. Further, when the crimp rate was measured by performing boiling water treatment on the composite fiber, the crimp rate DC when dried was 1.2%, the crimp rate HC when wet was 3.9%, and the crimp rate when dried. The difference (DC−HC) between the rate DC and the crimp rate HC when wet was −2.7%.

  Next, a knitted fabric was knitted using the above-mentioned composite fiber in the same manner as in Example 1, and then dyed, water-repellent, and dry heat final set were applied.

The obtained knitted fabric has a basis weight of 210 g / m ² , a warp direction elongation rate of 12%, a weft direction elongation rate of 22%, 5 points of water repellency, a breathability of 54 cc / cm ² / s when dried, and aeration when moisture is absorbed. It was unsatisfactory because the air permeability decreased at the time of moisture absorption, and the air permeability was reduced by 41 cc / cm ² / s. Further, in the composite fiber was drawn from the knitted product, percentage of crimp DC _F 56% during drying, percentage of crimp HC _F during moisture absorption 62%, crimp index difference in drying time and moisture _(DC F -HC _F ) was -6%.

  According to the present invention, it is possible to obtain a water-repellent woven or knitted fabric and a fiber product in which the air permeability of the woven or knitted fabric is improved reversibly and better than when it is dried, and its industrial value is extremely large.

It is the schematic diagram which illustrated the single yarn cross-sectional shape of the composite fiber used by this invention.

Explanation of symbols

P: Polyester component N: Polyamide component

Claims (14)

A woven or knitted fabric comprising 10% by weight or more of a composite fiber in which a polyester component and a polyamide component are bonded in a side-by-side manner with respect to the total weight of the woven / knitted fabric, and the woven / knitted fabric is subjected to a water-repellent finish, and The air permeability during drying is 50 cc / cm ² / s or less, and the conjugate fiber extracted from the woven or knitted fabric has a crimped structure in which latent crimping performance is expressed. _DC F (%) the percentage of crimp time, when the percentage of crimp moisture absorption and _HC F _(%), ventilation during moisture absorption, which is a _{DC F -HC F ≧ 10 (%} ) is Improved water-repellent knitted fabric.
However, during drying, the sample is left for 24 hours in a temperature of 20 ° C. and humidity of 65% RH. On the other hand, when moisture is absorbed, the sample is placed in a temperature of 30 ° C. and humidity of 90% RH. This is the state after being left for 24 hours.   The water-repellent woven or knitted fabric with improved breathability upon moisture absorption according to claim 1, wherein the polyester component comprises a modified polyester copolymerized with 2.0 to 4.5 mol% of 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid. The water-repellent woven or knitted fabric with improved breathability upon moisture absorption according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the conjugate fiber is a non-twisted yarn or a sweet-twisted yarn with a twist of 300 T / m or less.   The water-repellent woven or knitted fabric with improved breathability upon moisture absorption according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the woven or knitted fabric is composed of the composite fiber and other fibers.   The water-repellent woven or knitted fabric with improved breathability upon moisture absorption according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the warp and stretch directions in the warp and knitted fabrics are 10% or more.   The woven or knitted fabric is a multilayered woven or knitted fabric having two or more layers, and the composite fiber is contained in at least one layer of the woven or knitted fabric so as to be 30% by weight or more of the total weight of the fibers constituting the layer. 5. A water-repellent woven or knitted fabric having improved air permeability upon moisture absorption.   The water-repellent woven or knitted fabric having improved air permeability when absorbing moisture according to claim 5, wherein the composite fiber and another fiber form a composite loop of a circular knitted structure.   The water-repellent woven or knitted fabric having improved air permeability when absorbing moisture according to claim 5, wherein the composite fiber and other fibers are aligned and arranged on the warp and / or the weft of the woven structure.   6. The water-repellent woven or knitted fabric with improved breathability upon moisture absorption according to claim 5, wherein the composite fibers and other fibers are each arranged as one or more alternating yarns as constituent yarns of the woven or knitted fabric. .   The moisture absorption according to claim 5, wherein the conjugate fiber and the other fibers are included in the woven or knitted fabric as a core-sheath type composite yarn in which the conjugate fiber is located in the core portion and the other fibers are located in the sheath portion. Water-repellent woven knitted fabric that sometimes improves air permeability.   The water-repellent woven or knitted fabric with improved breathability upon moisture absorption according to any one of claims 4 to 10, wherein the other fibers are polyester fibers.   The water-repellent woven or knitted fabric with improved breathability upon moisture absorption according to any one of claims 1 to 11, which is dyed.   The water-repellent woven or knitted fabric having improved air permeability when absorbing moisture according to any one of claims 1 to 12, wherein the air permeability of the woven or knitted fabric when absorbing moisture is 30% or more higher than that when drying.   A textile product selected from the group consisting of an outer garment, a sports garment, and an inner garment using the water-repellent woven or knitted fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 13.

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