WO2022081094A1

WO2022081094A1 - Knitted fabric with fine-gauge appearance

Info

Publication number: WO2022081094A1
Application number: PCT/SG2021/050624
Authority: WO
Inventors: Ranil Kirthi Vitarana; Sithila Ayomi DASSANAYAKE; Dilru Roshan RATNAWEERA; Hetti Arachchige Malaka Chathuranga PERERA; Dodangodage Indika Sanjeewa WICKRAMARATNE
Original assignee: Mas Innovation (Private) Limited; MATTEUCCI, Gianfranco
Priority date: 2020-10-16
Filing date: 2021-10-15
Publication date: 2022-04-21

Abstract

The present disclosure relates to a knitted fine-gauge fabric (200). The knitted fine-gauge fabric (200) comprises an arrangement of yarn loops (202) knitted from a composite yarn (204). The composite yarn (204) comprises a first yarn (206); and a second yarn (208) different from the first yarn (206), the second yarn (208) comprising one or more polymers; wherein the fabric (200) has been heated to shrink the polymers, thereby shrinking the yarn loops (202) and increasing a stitch density of the fabric (200)

Description

KNITTED FABRIC WITH FINE-GAUGE APPEARANCE

Cross Reference to Related Application(s)

The present disclosure claims the benefit of Singapore Patent Application No. 10202010275W filed on 16 October 2020, which is incorporated in its entirety by reference herein.

Technical Field

The present disclosure relates to a knitted fabric with fine-gauge appearance and a method for producing the same.

Background

The listing or discussion of a prior-published document in this specification should not necessarily be taken as an acknowledgement that the document is part of the state of the art or is common general knowledge.

A circular knitting machine has a finer machine gauge than a flatbed knitting machine. A fabric produced by the circular knitting machine would have a finer fabric gauge or higher stitch density than a fabric produced by the flatbed knitting machine. The fabric gauge of the fabric relates to the stitch density of the fabric which is represented by the number of stitches per inch (or other spatial dimension) of fabric. A finer fabric gauge means the fabric is finer-looking and has more stitches per inch. Fabrics knitted from a flatbed knitting machine typically are heavier and coarser-looking (i.e. having a coarser fabric gauge) compared to fabrics knitted from a circular or warp knitting machine, which in contrast have a finer fabric gauge because of the finer machine gauge of the circular knitting machine. While it is possible to use fine yarns in a flatbed knitting machine to knit a fabric having a fine fabric gauge, there is a limit as to how fine the yarns can go because of technical limitations in the machine gauge and the arrangement of knitting needles of the flatbed knitting machine. Although a circular knitting machine can produce such fine fabrics, the fabrics are limited to the diametrical size of the circular knitting machine and thus have limited flexibility. There is therefore a need to provide improved fabrics and methods that would address one or more problems mentioned above.

Summary

1 . A knitted fine-gauge fabric comprising: an arrangement of yarn loops knitted from a composite yam, the composite yam comprising: a first yam; and a second yam different from the first yam, the second yam comprising one or more polymers; wherein the fabric has been heated to shrink the polymers, thereby shrinking the yam loops and increasing a stitch density of the fabric to achieve a fine-gauge appearance.

2. The fabric according to clause 1 , wherein the stitch density is defined by one or more of:

(i) 20 to 35 courses per inch of the fabric;

(ii) 30 to 60 wales per inch of the fabric; and

(iii) 140 to 180 grams per square metre of the fabric.

3. The fabric according to clause 1 or 2, wherein the second yam comprises a mechanical stretch yam.

4. The fabric according to any one of clauses 1 to 3, wherein the second yam comprises a Sorona® yam.

5. The fabric according to any one of clauses 1 to 3, wherein the second yam comprises two or more different polymers, and wherein the fabric has been heated to differentially shrink the polymers. 6. The fabric according to clause 5, wherein the fabric has been heated such that the polymers shrink at different extents to form helical crimps in the second yam.

7. The fabric according to clause 5 or 6, wherein the second yam comprises LYCRA® T400® or CM800 yam.

8. The fabric according to any one of clauses 1 to 7, wherein the first yam has a yam count of up to 200 denier.

9. The fabric according to any one of clauses 1 to 8, wherein the first yam comprises a polypropylene yam.

10. The fabric according to any one of clauses 1 to 9, wherein the first yam is hollow.

11. The fabric according to any one of clauses 1 to 10, wherein the first yam comprises a wicking yam.

12. The fabric according to any one of clauses 1 to 11 , wherein the first yam and the second yam are arranged such that the arrangement of yam loops forms a plated yam structure.

13. The fabric according to any one of clauses 1 to 12, wherein the first yam and the second yam are integrally formed in the composite yam.

14. A method of producing a knitted fine-gauge fabric, the method comprising: knitting an arrangement of yam loops from a composite yam using a knitting machine, the composite yam comprising a first yam and a second yam different from the first yam, the second yam comprising one or more polymers; heating the arrangement of yam loops; shrinking the polymers in response to said heating; and shrinking the yam loops in response to said shrinking of the polymers and thereby form the fabric; wherein the fabric has an increased stitch density resulting from said shrinking of the yarn loops to achieve a fine-gauge appearance.

15. The method according to clause 12, wherein the second yam comprises two or more different polymers, the method comprising differentially shrinking the polymers in response to said heating.

16. The method according to clause 13, comprising shrinking the polymers at different extents in response to said heating and forming helical crimps in the second yarn.

17. The method according to any one of clauses 14 to 16, wherein the knitting machine is a flatbed knitting machine.

18. The method according to clause 17, wherein said knitting comprises feeding the first yam and the second yam as separate yams through a yam feeder device of the flatbed knitting machine.

19. The method according to clause 18, wherein the first yam and the second yam are fed according to a predetermined angular relationship such that the arrangement of yam loops forms a plated yam structure.

20. The method according to clause 18 or 19, wherein the first yam and the second yam are fed through a common feeding hole of the yam feeder device.

21. The method according to clause 18 or 19, wherein the first yam and the second yam are fed through respective separate feeding holes of the yam feeder device.

22. The method according to clause 17, wherein the first yam and the second yam are integrally formed in the composite yam. 23. The method according to any one of clauses 14 to 22, wherein said heating is performed using a heating device comprising a stenter, steaming iron, or hot water bath.

24. The method according to any one of clauses 14 to 23, wherein the second yam comprises LYCRA® T400® and wherein said heating occurs at 100 °C for 5 to 10 seconds.

25. A knitted fine-gauge fabric produced by the method according to any one of clauses 14 to 24.

26. A garment comprising the knitted fine-gauge fabric according to any one of clauses 1 to 13 and 25.

Brief Description of Drawings

Certain embodiments of the present disclosure are described more fully hereinafter with reference to the accompanying drawings.

Figure 1 is a flowchart illustration of a method of producing a knitted fine-gauge fabric.

Figures 2A and 2B are illustrations of a yam loop before and after heating.

Figures 3A and 3B are illustrations knitting yam loops in a plated yam structure.

Detailed Description

In the present disclosure, depiction of a given element or consideration or use of a particular element number in a particular figure or a reference thereto in corresponding descriptive material can encompass the same, an equivalent, or an analogous element or element number identified in another figure or descriptive material associated therewith. The use of

in a figure or associated text is understood to mean “and/or” unless otherwise indicated. The recitation of a particular numerical value or value range herein is understood to include or be a recitation of an approximate numerical value or value range.

For purposes of brevity and clarity, descriptions of embodiments of the present disclosure are directed to a knitted fine-gauge fabric in accordance with the drawings. While aspects of the present disclosure will be described in conjunction with the embodiments provided herein, it will be understood that they are not intended to limit the present disclosure to these embodiments. On the contrary, the present disclosure is intended to cover alternatives, modifications and equivalents to the embodiments described herein, which are included within the scope of the present disclosure as defined by the appended claims. Furthermore, in the following detailed description, specific details are set forth in order to provide a thorough understanding of the present disclosure. However, it will be recognized by an individual having ordinary skill in the art, i.e. a skilled person, that the present disclosure may be practiced without specific details, and/or with multiple details arising from combinations of aspects of particular embodiments. In a number of instances, well-known systems, methods, procedures, and components have not been described in detail so as to not unnecessarily obscure aspects of the embodiments of the present disclosure.

In embodiments herein, the word “comprising” may be interpreted as requiring the features mentioned, but not limiting the presence of other features. Alternatively, the word “comprising” may also relate to the situation where only the components/features listed are intended to be present (e.g. the word “comprising” may be replaced by the phrases “consists of” or “consists essentially of”). It is explicitly contemplated that both the broader and narrower interpretations can be applied to all aspects and embodiments of the present disclosure. In other words, the word “comprising” and synonyms thereof may be replaced by the phrase “consisting of” or the phrase “consists essentially of” or synonyms thereof and vice versa.

Representative or exemplary embodiments of the present disclosure describe a knitted fine-gauge fabric 200 and a method 100 for manufacturing or producing the knitted fine-gauge fabric 200. As shown in Figure 1 , the method 100 includes a step 102 of knitting an arrangement of yam loops 202 from a composite yam 204 using a knitting machine. Preferably, the knitting machine is a flatbed knitting machine, although it will be appreciated that other types of knitting machines may be use, such as a circular knitting machine or warp knit machine. The settings of the knitting machine may be adjusted according to the desired properties of the knitted fine-gauge fabric 200.

The composite yam 204 comprises a first yarn 206 and a second yam 208 that is different from the first yam 206. The first yam 206 may be any yam having a low yam count, such as up to 200 denier. It will be appreciated that a low yam count means the first yam 206 has fine fibres I filaments I threads and have lower weight density. For example, the first yam 206 is made of or comprises a polypropylene yam. The first yam 206 may be hollow, such as by using hollow yam fibres I filaments I threads or by using yams with hollow bubbles, to further reduce the weight density of the first yam 206. The first yam 206 may have certain cross-sectional profiles that reduce the weight density of the first yam 206, such as a C-shaped cross-sectional profile. The first yam 206 may be made of or comprises a material having particular functionalities, such as a wicking yam. The second yam 208 has a different material composition than the first yam 206 and comprises one or more polymers. More specifically, the second yam 208 comprises fibres I filaments I threads that are made from one or more polymers or polymer-based materials. The second yam 208 may be made of or comprises a mechanical stretch yam. For example, the second yam 208 is made of or comprises a mechanical stretch yam made from a single polymer material, such as a Sorona® yam.

The method 100 includes a step 104 of heating the arrangement of yam loops 202. Figure 2A illustrates the knitted arrangement of the yam loops 202 before the yam loops 202 are heated. The yam loops 202 are heated by subjecting them to a heat treatment process. The heat treatment process may be performed using a heating device such as a stenter, steaming iron, or hot water bath. Preferably, said heating of the yam loops 202 occurs at a temperature ranging from 60 to 200 °C.

The method 100 includes a step 106 of shrinking the polymers of the second yam 208 in response to said heating. The method 100 includes a step 108 of shrinking the yam loops 202 in response to said shrinking of the polymers and thereby form the knitted fine-gauge fabric 100. Figure 2B illustrates the knitted arrangement of the yam loops 202 after the yarn loops 202 are heated. In each yam loop 202, which is formed from the composite yam 204 comprising the first yam 206 and the second yam 208, said shrinking of the polymers of the second yam 208 causing both the first yam 206 and the second yam 208 to shrink together. This is due to the association of the second yam 208 with the first yam 206, such as by plating or being integrally formed in a single integrated yam as described below. This reduces the overall length of the composite yam 204 and in turn reduces the size of the yam loop 202. Accordingly, heating of the yam loops 202 reduces the size of each yam loop 202 and collectively shrinks the knitted arrangement of yam loops 202.

In some embodiments, the second yam 208 comprises two or more different polymers, i.e. fibres I filaments I threads that are made from two or more different polymers or polymer-based materials. The method 100 comprises differentially shrinking the polymers of the second yam 208 in response to said heating, and shrinking the polymers at different extents in response to said heating and forming helical crimps in the second yam 208. More specifically, when the second yam 208 is exposed to heat, each of the two or more different polymers shrinks to a different degree or extent due to differences in their individual material composition. The heat exposure results in the forming of smooth helical crimps in the second yam 208 which shrinks and reduces the length of the second yam 208. As a non-limiting example, the second yam 208 is or comprises LYCRA® T400® or CM800 yams which are multi-component (specifically bicomponent) yams in which different polymers are joined within each filament. The second yam 208 comprising the LYCRA® T400® yam is preferably heated at or just slightly above 100 °C for around 5 to 10 seconds. As the helical crimps are formed because of said heating and are not mechanically induced, the stretch and recovery of the second yam 208 is greater and more durable than normal textured yams. The regularity of the helical crimps also improves the aesthetic appearance of the knitted fine-gauge fabric 200.

Comparing the heated yam loops 202 as shown in Figure 2B against the unheated yam loops 202 as shown in Figure 2A, the knitted fine-gauge fabric 200 has an increased stitch density resulting from said shrinking of the heated yam loops 202. As mentioned above, the stitch density represents the number of stitches per inch (or other spatial dimension) of fabric. The stitch density may also be referred to as the fabric gauge. An increased stitch density means there are more stitches per inch of fabric. The stitches are more densely packed together within the same area of fabric, resulting in a finer-looking fabric. In other words, said heating of the yam loops 202 results in said shrinking of the yam loops 202 and as this shrinking effect occurs throughout the knitted arrangement of yam loops 202, the entire knitted fine-gauge fabric 200 shrinks and achieves an increased or a finer stitch density. The knitted fine- gauge fabric 200 thus has a higher I finer stitch density and correspondingly a finer gauge, thus achieving a fine-gauge appearance.

The stitch density of the knitted fine-gauge fabric 200 may be defined by one or more of the following properties. The knitted fine-gauge fabric 200 may have 20 to 35 courses per inch (CPI) of fabric, where CPI refers to the number of loops that are connected horizontally and continuously in a series. The knitted fine-gauge fabric 200 may have 30 to 60 wales per inch (WPI) of fabric, where WPI refers to number of loops that intermeshes vertically in a series. The knitted fine-gauge fabric 200 may have a weight density from 140 to 180 grams per square metre (GSM). These properties mean that for the same area of fabric, the knitted fine-gauge fabric 200 formed by the method 100 has more densely packed yams (composite yam 204). The knitted fine- gauge fabric 200 has an increased stitch density and consequently a finer-looking aesthetic appearance.

The first yam 206 and the second yam 208 may be arranged with each other in the composite yam 204 in various ways. In some embodiments, the composite yam 204 is fed through a yam feeder device of the flatbed knitting machine to knit the arrangement of yam loops 202. As shown in Figure 3A, the first yam 206 and the second yam 208 are fed as separate yams and a knitting needle 300 of the flatbed knitting machine engages both the first yam 206 and the second yam 208 during feeding. In one embodiment, the first yam 206 and the second yam 208 are fed through a common feeding hole of the yam feeder device. In another embodiment, the first yarn 206 and the second yam 208 are fed through respective separate feeding holes of the yam feeder device.

It will be appreciated that the first yam 206 and the second yam 208, as well as the feeding hole(s), are arranged such that they are fed according to a predetermined angular relationship and the composite yam 204 forms a plated yam structure 210 as shown in Figure 3B. In other words, the arrangement of yam loops 202 is knitted into the form of the plated yam structure 210. In the plated yam structure 210, the first yam 206 may be referred to as the main yam 206 and the second yam 208 may be referred to as the plating yam 208. As will be understood by the skilled person, the plated yam structure 210 comprises loops of the main yam 206 and the plating yam 208 running in line with each other. The main yam 206 forms the technical face of the plated yam structure 210 and the plating yam 208, which is plated on the main yam 206, forms the technical back of the plated yam structure 210.

In some embodiments, the first yam 206 and the second yam 208 are integrally formed in the composite yam 204 such that they are fed as a single integrated yam. In one embodiment, the composite yam 204 is formed by plying the first yam 206 onto the second yam 208, or vice versa. In another embodiment, the composite yam 204 is formed by covering one of the first yam 206 and second yam 208 with the other of the first yam 206 and second yam 208. In another embodiment, the composite yam 204 is formed from by combining a first group of fibres I filaments I threads having the properties of the first yam 206 together with a second group of fibres I filaments I threads having the properties of the second yam 208.

Compared to circular knitting machines, flat bed knitting machines can be used to produce more complex and a wider variety of knitted fabrics and garments. However, technical limitations in the arrangement of knitting needles 300 of the flatbed knitting machine, particularly the pitch of the knitting needles 300, restrict the machine gauge and the types of yams that can be used in the flatbed knitting machine. Fine yams cannot normally be used in the flatbed knitting machine because the needle pitch is not small enough to accommodate the fine yams and produce fine fabrics - the fine yams would be too loosely stitched in the fabric. The method 100 described in various embodiments herein to produce the knitted fine- gauge fabric 200 addresses this problem by including the heating step. The heating reduces the sizes of the yam loops 202 and shrinks the yam loops 202 closer to each other. This allows for fine yams to be used in the method 100 to produce knitted fine- gauge fabrics 200. In many embodiments, the first yam 206 can be made of or comprises fine fibres I filaments I threads and has a low yam count such as below 200 denier. Even though the needle pitch of the flatbed knitting machine does not properly accommodate the fine first yam 206, the loosely-stitched yam loops 202 will shrink closer to each other as a result of the heating. This results in the yam loops being more densely stitched together within the same area of fabric.

The knitted fine-gauge fabric 200 has a finer stitch density which improves the aesthetic appearance of the knitted fine-gauge fabric 200. Additionally, as the first yam 206 is made of or comprises fine fibres I filaments I threads, the knitted fine-gauge fabric 200 is more lightweight and has a lower GSM. The fine material of the first yam 206 imparts smoother texture properties to the knitted fine-gauge fabric 200 and gives better hand feel and appearance. The first yam 206 may be made of or comprises a spun polyester yam with small yam count. For example, the first yam 206 may be made of or comprises fine Chenille yam.

Various types of garments can be produced using the knitted fine-gauge fabric 200 as described herein according to any embodiment described above. For example, the garments may include, but are not limited to, shirts and sweaters. Moreover, as the knitted fine-gauge fabric 200 has been pre-shrunk due to the heating, there is lower risk of the garments shrinking further, especially after multiple washes.

In the foregoing detailed description, embodiments of the present disclosure in relation to a knitted fine-gauge fabric are described with reference to the provided figures. The description of the various embodiments herein is not intended to call out or be limited only to specific or particular representations of the present disclosure, but merely to illustrate non-limiting examples of the present disclosure. The present disclosure serves to address at least one of the mentioned problems and issues associated with the prior art. Although only some embodiments of the present disclosure are disclosed herein, it will be apparent to a person having ordinary skill in the art in view of the present disclosure that a variety of changes and/or modifications can be made to the disclosed embodiments without departing from the scope of the present disclosure. Therefore, the scope of the present disclosure as well as the scope of the following claims is not limited to embodiments described herein.

Claims

2. The fabric according to claim 1 , wherein the second yam comprises two or more different polymers, and wherein the fabric has been heated to differentially shrink the polymers.

3. The fabric according to claim 2, wherein the fabric has been heated such that the polymers shrink at different extents to form helical crimps in the second yam.

4. The fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the first yam and the second yam are arranged such that the arrangement of yam loops forms a plated yam structure.

5. The fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the first yam and the second yam are integrally formed in the composite yam.

6. A method of producing a knitted fine-gauge fabric, the method comprising: knitting an arrangement of yam loops from a composite yam using a knitting machine, the composite yam comprising a first yam and a second yam different from the first yam, the second yam comprising one or more polymers; heating the arrangement of yam loops; shrinking the polymers in response to said heating; and shrinking the yarn loops in response to said shrinking of the polymers and thereby form the fabric; wherein the fabric has an increased stitch density resulting from said shrinking of the yarn loops to achieve a fine-gauge appearance.

7. The method according to claim 6, wherein the second yam comprises two or more different polymers, the method comprising differentially shrinking the polymers in response to said heating.

8. The method according to claim 7, comprising shrinking the polymers at different extents in response to said heating and forming helical crimps in the second yarn.

9. The method according to any one of claims 6 to 8, wherein the knitting machine is a flatbed knitting machine.

10. The method according to claim 9, wherein said knitting comprises feeding the first yam and the second yam as separate yams through a yam feeder device of the flatbed knitting machine.

11. The method according to claim 10, wherein the first yam and the second yam are fed according to a predetermined angular relationship such that the arrangement of yam loops forms a plated yam structure.

12. The method according to claim 10 or 11 , wherein the first yam and the second yam are fed through a common feeding hole of the yam feeder device.

13. The method according to claim 10 or 11 , wherein the first yam and the second yam are fed through respective separate feeding holes of the yam feeder device.

14. The method according to claim 11 , wherein the first yam and the second yam are integrally formed in the composite yam.

15. A knitted fine-gauge fabric produced by the method according to any one of claims 6 to 14.

16. A garment comprising the knitted fine-gauge fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 5 and 15.

15