JPS62162043A - Production of fabric - Google Patents

Abstract

(57) [Summary] This bulletin contains application data before electronic filing, so abstract data is not recorded.

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION [Field of Industrial Application] The present invention relates to a method for manufacturing a fabric that has excellent breathability even when absorbing water.

[Background of the invention]

Cotton fabrics are widely used as materials for clothing worn in midsummer, when environmental conditions are hot and humid. However, when cotton fabric absorbs water, it swells, increasing its apparent cover factor, and even if it has good air permeability when dry, it decreases when it absorbs water. Therefore, when wearing underwear made of cotton fabric and sweating, the cotton fabric absorbs sweat, reduces breathability, and becomes sticky to the skin, causing discomfort. In other words, cotton fabric is not a comfortable material when it absorbs water.

It is known that the crimp rate of natural fibers such as cotton and wool changes reversibly when humidity changes. However, this change is extremely slight and does not solve the problem of water absorption mentioned above, and this change is only noticeable from a macroscopic perspective when it comes to stuffing in futons, pillows, etc. and cold-weather clothing. It is limited to cases where it is used as a fiber aggregate with small inter-fiber constraints, such as cotton padding.

On the other hand, with regard to synthetic fibers, as described in JP-A No. 55-93860, it is known that the crimp can be reversibly changed by using acrylic synthetic fibers as cotton padding and drying them. It is being

However, this change in crimp in the fibers was also used as a stuffing material, and was not used to actively improve the breathability of the fabric when it absorbed water.

[Purpose of the invention]

The present invention was made in order to provide a fabric that increases air permeability when absorbing water and does not give a sticky or stuffy feeling. The present invention provides a method for producing a fabric whose passability increases when water is absorbed.

[Structure of the Invention] The present invention provides a non-torque crimped yarn A consisting of a filament in which modified polyethylene terephthalate copolymerized with 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid and nylon 6 are composited side-by-side, and a non-torque crimped yarn A having a water retention shrinkage rate of 8% or less. , using a yarn B made of polyester filaments with a birefringence Δn in the range of 0.05 to 0.11, at least one side of the warp and weft is an alternate arrangement of a plurality of A and a plurality of B. A method for producing a woven fabric, which comprises weaving a woven fabric and subjecting the obtained woven fabric to hot water treatment, provides a woven fabric whose breathability increases when water is absorbed by this method.

A non-torque crimped yarn consisting of a filament in which modified polyethylene terephthalate tonylon 6, which is obtained by copolymerizing 5-sodium sulfoisophthalate with an acid, is composited side-by-side has a crimp that changes well during water absorption and desorption. The modified polyethylene terephthalate of this composite filament is 5-
The copolymerization amount of sodium sulfoisophthalic acid was 15 mol%.
Hereinafter, it is particularly preferable that the range is from 1 to 7 mol%,
Nylon 6 preferably has an intrinsic viscosity [η] (measured with a metacresol solution at 30°C) in the range of 1.0 to 1.4. Both of these components include a matting agent and a coloring agent as necessary. , antistatic agents, heat stabilizers, etc. can be added. The non-torque crimp is preferably applied by a heated fluid pushing method in which the spun and drawn composite filament is sprayed or blown into a net conveyor or chamber using a heated fluid jetting nozzle. According to this method, crimps with relatively fine pitch, amplitude, etc. can be stably applied, there is little difference in the crimp form between composite filaments, and there is no twist that causes torque in the crimps. A non-torque crimped yarn with less entanglement between composite filaments can be obtained.

The above-mentioned non-torque crimped yarn exhibits a property in which the crimp changes well with water absorption and desorption, such that the crimp rate during drying is 30% or more greater than the crimp rate during moisture absorption. In this case, the crimp rate during moisture absorption and drying is determined by taking the non-torque crimped yarn obtained by the method described above into small pieces, and cutting it into small pieces.
/de load was applied for 20 minutes and then air-dried for 24 hours, and the resulting treated small pieces were placed in an atmosphere of 30°C and 90% Rfl for 2 hours when absorbing moisture.
Leave it for a while, then dry it in a constant temperature dryer for 30 minutes at 60℃, then apply a small load of 200q/de to find the length tl after 1 minute, then increase the load to 2■/de. , find the length t2 after 1 minute, and calculate the crimp rate = 100 (
This is the value obtained by Ll-t2)/11.

Even if the above-mentioned non-torque crimped yarn has excellent crimp shape change during grade dehydration, it is not possible to produce the desired fabric using only this yarn. In other words, with only non-torque crimped yarn,
It is not possible to create fabrics that create three-dimensional ventilation gaps when water is absorbed, and in fabrics made only from non-torque crimped yarns, changes in the crimp form of the non-torque crimped yarns occur as a result of moisture absorption by the nylon component of the constituent composite filaments. As a result, the woven fabric has poor shape stability and is inferior in quality and feel when used for clothing.

Therefore, in the present invention, in combination with the above-mentioned non-torque crimped yarn, the water retention shrinkage rate is 8% or less and the birefringence index Δn is 0.0.
A thread consisting of polyester filaments ranging from 5 to 0.11 is used. Polyester filament yarn, in combination with non-torque crimped yarn, not only provides a fabric with three-dimensional ventilation gaps when water is absorbed, but also improves the heat setting properties of the fabric, thereby improving its quality, as well as its physical properties and texture. do.

However, those with a water retention shrinkage rate of more than 8% will shrink in the fabric and increase the binding force between the constituent yarns, thereby preventing the non-torque crimped yarn from changing its crimp form. This makes it impossible to obtain fabrics that increase breathability when water is absorbed. In addition, those with birefringence Δn less than 0.05 have extremely poor thermal stability, and have a water retention shrinkage rate of 8% or more, which not only prevents the change in the crimp form of non-torque crimped yarns, but also Difficult to use in textiles. If ΔD exceeds 0.11, the heat setting properties will deteriorate, making it difficult to obtain the desired fabric.

Water shrinkage rate is 8% or less, birefringence Δn is 0.05 to 0.
Polyester filament yarns in the range No. 11 can be obtained by the method described below.

Polyethylene terephthalate having an intrinsic viscosity of 0.5 to 0.8 is melt-spun from a nozzle and drawn off at high speed to form a yarn.

The optimum withdrawal rate in this case varies considerably depending on the molecular weight of the polyethylene terephthalate, catalyst molecules in the polymer, additives, blend of third component, copolymerization, polymerization process, and other conditions. For example, using an sb-based catalyst,
In the case of polyethylene terephthalate obtained by direct polymerization, it is 4,500 to 5,500? A withdrawal rate of M/min is appropriate, but in the case of polyethylene terephthalate obtained by transesterification using a T1 catalyst,
It is possible to spin yarn at a take-up speed of 3900 to 4500 m and 7 minutes.

However, in the case of modified polyethylene terephthalate copolymerized with a third component such as sodium 3,5-dicarboxybenzenesulfonate, yarn can be spun at a take-up speed of 3,500 to 4,500 m7 minutes. Furthermore, the optimum take-up speed varies depending on conditions other than the polymer, such as the denier, cross-sectional shape, and cooling rate of the constituent filaments. in general,
The smaller the denier of the filament, the more irregularly shaped the cross section is from a circular shape, and the higher the cooling rate of the discharged filament, the lower the take-up speed can be.

As another method of spinning yarn, the spun yarn may be once cooled to below the glass transition temperature and then passed through a heating zone at 100 to 250°C or lower and taken off at a speed of 1500 to 4500 m 7 minutes.

Furthermore, as another method of spinning yarn, the number of spun yarns is 2,500 to 400.
The undrawn yarn taken at a speed of 0 ml/min is subjected to a 2 to 8% relaxation treatment at a temperature of 150°C or higher, and then a 1.2 to 1.5
A method of cold stretching at a stretching ratio of twice as much may be used.

The twisted, undrawn yarn taken at a speed of 1000 to 2 soom/min is stretched to about twice the original size, and then stretched at a temperature of 150°C or higher for 2
A method of subjecting the material to a relaxation treatment of ~8% and then cold-stretching it by a factor of 1.2 to 1.5 is also used.

Using the above-mentioned non-torque crimped yarn A and polyester filament yarn B, a fabric in which three-dimensional ventilation gaps are created when water is absorbed can be made with at least warp.

One side of the weft is obtained by using threads consisting of an alternating arrangement of a plurality of threads of A and a plurality of threads of B. The weave structure is not particularly limited and may be plain weave, twill weave, or other variable textures, but even if A and B are used, for example, at least one of At or B in an alternating arrangement may be one, Or the warp or latitude is A
If a yarn is used in which only B is used and vice versa, it is not possible to obtain a fabric that creates three-dimensional ventilation gaps when water is absorbed.

FIGS. 1 to 3 each show an example of the structure of the fabric according to the present invention.

The woven fabric shown in FIG. 1 consists of four non-torque crimped yarns A and two polyester filament yarns B alternately arranged in both the warp and weft of plain weave. The fabric shown in Figure 2 is a combination of weft weave and plain weave, and consists of yarns in which six yarns with a warp of A and six yarns with a warp of B are arranged alternately, and the weft consists only of A. The fabric shown in Figure 3 also has a plain weave structure, with the warp consisting only of A and the weft A.
It consists of an alternating arrangement of four wires and two wires B.

In this way, when a fabric consisting of an alternating arrangement of multiple yarns in warp and weft on at least one side and multiple yarns in B, when it absorbs water, it becomes uneven, especially in the areas where multiple yarns in A and multiple yarns in B are adjacent to each other. As a result, three-dimensional ventilation gaps are created. In view of the fact that a larger ventilation gap can be obtained, it is preferable to use a woven structure with fewer intersecting points and more floating, as shown in FIGS. 2 and 3.

The fabric woven with the structure described above is treated with hot water so that it is easily deformed when water is absorbed. This hot water treatment is carried out at 90℃
It is preferable to carry out the process at a temperature above, and it can be carried out in a commonly performed scouring process or dyeing process. Needless to say, after the hot water treatment, it is dried or further subjected to finishing treatments such as tentering.

When the fabric obtained by the method of the present invention described above is dried, the voids between the yarns become smaller and the amount of air permeability decreases.
When water is absorbed, the voids between the threads become larger and the amount of ventilation increases, which is a reversible change.

This change occurs because at least one of the warp and weft is composed of an alternating array of multiple non-torque crimped yarns and multiple polyester filament yarns, and when water is absorbed, unevenness is generated or accentuated on the fabric surface. , three-dimensional ventilation gaps are formed, the crimp of the non-torque crimped yarn decreases, the apparent thickness of the yarn becomes thinner, and the voids between the yarns increase; This is caused by the additive effects of the threads elongating and bending (weave crimp) as the crimp decreases, thereby creating three-dimensional gaps between the threads. That is, the method of the present invention provides a fabric having functions not found in conventional fabrics, and the fabric obtained by the method of the present invention can be suitably used as a material for sports clothes and summer clothes. This has the excellent effect of preventing the inside of clothes from getting stuffy when sweating, and reducing the feeling of stickiness.

〔Example〕

Specific examples of the present invention will be shown below.

Modified polyethylene terephthalate with an intrinsic viscosity [η] (measured in an orthochlorophenol solution at 25°C) of 0.4 and a modified polyethylene terephthalate copolymerized with 2.6 mol% of 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid and an intrinsic viscosity [η] (30 1.0 nylon 6 (measured in a meta-cresol solution at 3. Spinning at a speed of 75 om/min followed by a temperature of 80°C.
After being stretched 5 times and further subjected to tension heat treatment at a temperature of 130°C, it is passed through a hot air jet nozzle at \190°C to undergo a crimping process by pushing heated fluid, and then continuously wound as a crimped yarn. Ta. The obtained non-torque crimped yarn had a total denier of approximately 150 de and a dry crimp ratio of 22.2.
%, and the crimp rate upon water absorption was 6.2%.

On the other hand, polyethylene terephthalate having an intrinsic viscosity of 0.64 was spun using a spinneret having 48 filaments at a spinning temperature of 290° C. and drawn off at a speed of 5000 ml/min. The denier of the obtained polyester filament yarn is 1
It was 50 de.

A woven fabric having the structure shown in FIG. 1 was woven using the non-torque crimped yarn A and polyester filament yarn B described above, and the resulting woven fabric was subjected to a dyeing finish consisting of the steps of scouring, presetting, dyeing, and final setting.

The dyeing finish was carried out by a conventional method including hot water treatment at 90° C. or higher in the scouring step.

As a comparative example, ordinary 15
A dyed fabric was obtained in the same direction as described above, except that polyester filament yarn C of 0 de/4 s fil was used instead of polyester filament yarn B described above.

Table 1 shows the performance of the fabrics obtained as described above.

Table 1 As shown in Table 1, in the fabric obtained by the method of the present invention, irregularities are generated or accentuated when water is absorbed, resulting in increased breathability.

〔Effect of the invention〕

According to the method of the present invention, it is possible to obtain a fabric suitable for use as a material for sports or summer clothing, which has increased air permeability upon water absorption and does not give a sticky or stuffy feeling.

[Brief explanation of drawings]

FIGS. 1 to 3 are organization charts showing an example of the fabric according to the present invention. Human: Non-torque wound yarn, B: Polyester filament yarn.

Claims (3)

[Claims] (1) Non-torque crimped yarn A consisting of filaments made of side-by-side composites of modified polyethylene terephthalate copolymerized with 5-sodium sulfoisophthalate and nylon 6, with boiling water shrinkage of 8% or less and birefringence Δn of 0 Using yarn B made of polyester filaments in the range of .05 to 0.11, a woven fabric is obtained by weaving a fabric consisting of an alternating arrangement of a plurality of A and a plurality of B in at least one of the warp and weft. A method for producing a woven fabric, characterized by subjecting the woven fabric to hot water treatment. (2) The method of manufacturing a woven fabric according to claim 1, wherein the woven fabric is comprised of a plurality of A and a plurality of B alternating in both warp and weft. (3) The method for manufacturing a woven fabric according to claim 1, wherein the woven fabric uses only the A in one of the warp and weft.