EP1136003B1 - Einbügelbares Textiles Trägermaterial und Verfahren zur Herstellung desselben - Google Patents

Einbügelbares Textiles Trägermaterial und Verfahren zur Herstellung desselben Download PDF

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Publication number
EP1136003B1
EP1136003B1 EP01400486A EP01400486A EP1136003B1 EP 1136003 B1 EP1136003 B1 EP 1136003B1 EP 01400486 A EP01400486 A EP 01400486A EP 01400486 A EP01400486 A EP 01400486A EP 1136003 B1 EP1136003 B1 EP 1136003B1
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EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
filaments
textile support
shrinkage
different
textile
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Expired - Lifetime
Application number
EP01400486A
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English (en)
French (fr)
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EP1136003A1 (de
Inventor
Jean Lefebvre
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Lainiere de Picardie BC SAS
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Lainiere de Picardie BC SAS
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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41—WEARING APPAREL
    • A41D—OUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
    • A41D27/00—Details of garments or of their making
    • A41D27/02—Linings
    • A41D27/06—Stiffening-pieces
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/50—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/567—Shapes or effects upon shrinkage

Definitions

  • the invention relates to a fusible textile support and to its process Manufacturing.
  • Iron-on interfacing products are commonly used today in the textile industry, mainly as reinforcement fabrics. Their application, carried out in particular by laminating on the linings of the clothes or on the draperies, allows to modify the characteristics of the fabrics, especially their shaping and stabilization but also their touch, flexibility and nervousness.
  • such textile supports can be formed from textured yarns, in particular multifilament yarns, because of the particular advantages brought by texturing (see for example document US-A-5,922,433).
  • this evolution requires interlining presenting a certain flexibility and a soft touch while having mechanical characteristics, especially resilience and elasticity, sufficient to fulfill its function reinforcement.
  • the invention therefore aims to remedy these drawbacks by proposing a support fusible textile that is versatile with a large volume, a some flexibility, a soft touch and mechanical characteristics optimal so that it can be laminated over a wide range of clothing or drapery while retaining their characteristics initials while giving them complementary performances essential for their comfort and maintenance.
  • the invention provides a textile support for fusible interfacing, of the type formed by a fabric, a knitted fabric or a knitted woven fabric, in which the weft threads and / or the warp threads of said support are formed of at least two types of continuous textured filaments including at least the filaments of one of the types has a different shrinkage rate than that of the filaments of other types.
  • the textile support has undergone a finishing treatment after weaving or knitting comprising a retraction step so as to give it the characteristics final, especially in terms of volume.
  • the filaments of a first type exhibit a rate retraction less than 30% and filaments of a second type a rate of retraction between 30% and 60%.
  • the filaments are made of materials different synthetics depending on the type to which they belong.
  • the filaments with the lowest shrinkage rate are formed of polyester or polyamide 6.6 and the filaments having the rate of most important retraction are formed of poly butylene terephthalate, polybutadiene, polyamide 6, polypropylene or acrylic.
  • the filaments have a density of crimps of different texturing depending on the type to which they belong.
  • the filaments with the lowest shrinkage rate then have a density less curling than the filaments with the shrinkage rate Most important.
  • the filaments have a different titration in depending on the type to which they belong. For example, filaments with lower shrinkage rates have lower titration than filaments with the highest retraction rate, for example of the order of 1.5 Dtex.
  • Figure 1 is a schematic and flat view of a wire used in the supports textiles of the prior art, namely formed from a single type of filaments.
  • Figure 2 is a schematic and flat view of a wire formed of two types of continuous textured filaments of which the filaments of one of the types have a shrinkage rate different from that of filaments of the other type. The wire is shown after the retraction step.
  • Figure 3 is a schematic and flat view of the association of several of the wires shown in Figure 1 in warp or weft, showing the spacing that exists between these sons.
  • Figure 4 is a schematic and flat view of the association of several of the wires shown in Figure 2 in warp or weft, showing the spacing that exists between these sons.
  • a textile support for fusible interlining is made of a fabric, a knitted fabric knitted or knitted mesh which are obtained respectively by weaving or knitting of warp threads and weft threads 1.
  • the knitted fabrics are, for example, knitted or knitted fabrics jetties (chain or Raschel) and knitted fabrics knitted with knitted fabrics jetties into which a wire is inserted at the time of forming the mesh of weft 1 over the entire width of the knit in different weaving weaves such as chain or single knit.
  • the textile support comprises a discontinuous layer of hot-melt polymer arranged on one of its faces so that it can be associated with the piece of garment he must strengthen.
  • the application of the hot-melt layer is for example carried out by conventional spot coating techniques among which we can cite the printing techniques in the rotary frame of a dispersion of fine powders hot melt polymers in aqueous phase.
  • the density of the dots deposited on the textile support can vary between 20 and 170 points per square centimeter depending on the nature of the piece of clothing to be reinforced.
  • the textile support can then be laminated via the layer hot-melt, especially on clothing linings or draperies strengthen.
  • the weft threads and / or the warp threads 1 of the textile support are formed from at least two types of continuous textured filaments 2, 3 of which minus the filaments 2 of one of the types have a different retraction rate that of filaments 3 of other types.
  • the texturing of the filaments 2, 3 is obtained by using, for example, a classic false twist texturing technique.
  • the wires 1 are then obtained by slight intermingling of the different types of continuous textured filaments 2, 3.
  • the filaments can be textured in the same texturing machine, with a density of crimps identical or not, to be intertwined at the exit of their respective sector.
  • the textile support is intended to undergo, after weaving or knitting, a treatment finishing including a retraction step.
  • the purpose of this step is to give the textile support its final characteristics, in particular in terms of volume, due to swelling of the wires 1.
  • retraction rate is meant the ratio between the length of the filament continuous 2, 3 before and after the shrinkage treatment of said filament 2, 3.
  • the filaments 2, 3 consist of different plastics so as to have a shrinkage rate different.
  • the filaments 2, 3 have a density of crimps of different textures so as to present a rate of shrinkage different.
  • the filaments 2, 3 have a density of crimps of different texturing which gives different shrinking capacities. This difference in density of crimps can be obtained in a first phase of false texturing twist separately on each part of filaments 2, 3 of the same density crimps.
  • the filaments 2, 3 are then assembled by slight intermingling to manufacture the thread 1 intended to form the warp and / or the weft of the textile support according to the invention.
  • the synthetic materials forming the filaments 2, 3 can be identical or different depending on the density of crimps, for example the filaments 2, 3 can be formed from any of the types of polymers mentioned in the table presented above.
  • the filaments 2, 3 have a different titration so that you have a different rate of withdrawal.
  • the synthetic materials forming the filaments 2, 3 can be identical or different depending on the titration, for example the filaments 2, 3 can be formed from any of the types of polymers listed in the table presented above.
  • a first and a second type of polyester filaments having a titration respectively of the order of 1.5 Dtex and of the order of 3 Dtex so as to present a different rate of retraction.
  • the filaments of the first type then have a lower shrinkage rate than filaments of the second type.
  • the modification of the retraction rate of the filaments 2, 3 is obtained by combining the three embodiments set out above, namely by using filaments 2, 3 formed from different synthetic materials, having a different density of textured crimps as well as a titration different.
  • the yarns 1 of the textile support can be formed of more than two types of continuous textured filaments 2, 3, for example three each having a different retraction rate, so as to further improve the versatility of textile supports according to the invention.
  • warp and / or weft yarns 1 of a textile support with at at least two types of continuous textured filaments 2, 3 each having a rate of different retraction also makes it possible to adapt the characteristics of said support for the functions referred to in the context of its use.
  • flexibility and soft touch can be achieved by choice of a polymer such as polyamides and / or by low titration filaments.
  • Resilience elasticity to curvature or bending
  • large titration filaments for example greater than 3 Dtex, and / or by the use of polymers having stiffness or flexural strength characteristics more important.
  • the final titration of wire 1 will be adapted to the functions expected for the textile support. For example, it will be around 22 Dtex for the interlining of light draperies for blouses and up to 800 Dtex for example for covering jackets or coats.
  • the number and the percentage of the different filaments 2, 3 component the wire 1 is generally chosen according to the resilience or the elasticity, volume and flexibility desired for the textile support.
  • the textile support is formed from warp threads and threads weft 1 which are woven or knitted in the form of a fabric, knitted fabric or a knitted mesh knit.
  • Yarns 1 formed from at least two types of continuous textured filaments 2, 3 of which filaments 3 of one of the types have a different shrinkage rate from that of the filaments 2 of the other type can be used either in weft or in chain, either in weft and chain.
  • the other wires 4 are then of the type conventional, textured or not, for example formed from several filaments 5 all with the same withdrawal rate.
  • the chain and / or the weft is not 100% formed with such yarns 1 but includes a alternative association of these threads 1 with threads 4 of the conventional type, textured or not.
  • the textile support chain of the first example is replaced by a thread comprising 7 textured filaments formed from a single synthetic material.
  • the textile supports according to the invention can comprise, in particular associated in a conventional manner on the face of the support opposite the layer of hot-melt polymer, a layer of nonwoven so as to improve still its volume.
  • the different textile supports after weaving or knitting, undergo a finishing treatment comprising a retraction step so that their confer the final characteristics, in particular in terms of volume.
  • the difference in retraction between the filaments 2, 3 combined to form thread 1 induces an increase in undulations of the filaments 3 having the lowest shrinkage so as to increase the gap between the filaments 2, 3 and therefore increase the volume of the wire 1.
  • This increase is more particularly visible in comparison with a wire 4 formed from a single type of filament 5, as shown in FIG. 1.
  • the increase in volume i.e. in diameter, lowers the density of the wire 1 which gives the interlining the voluminous feel and the desired lightness.
  • the spacing 6 between the weft threads and / or chain 1 of the textile support is reduced compared to the prior art ( Figure 3) which provides the desired coverage for the textile support of so as in particular to prevent the crossings of hot-melt polymer to through said support during its lamination.
  • Such yarns 1 also offer maximum flexibility, wrinkle resistance and elasticity.
  • the textile support is produced by weaving or knitting of the textile support with weft threads and / or warp threads 1 formed from at least two types of continuous textured filaments 2, 3, at least the filaments 2 of one of the types has a different retraction rate than that filaments 3 of the other type.
  • each type of filaments 2, 3 forming the warp and / or weft yarns 1 of the textile support are defined, as indicated above, according to the characteristics referred to in the application of the textile support.
  • the textile support undergoes a finishing treatment comprising at least one retraction step.
  • This step is conventionally carried out either in a thermal medium or by spraying or in an aqueous medium. It allows an increase in volume of wires 1 and therefore the coverage sought by reducing spaces 6 between the threads 1 of the textile support.
  • This step may further comprise washing, dyeing, drying and then a heat-stabilizing stabilization of the textile support.
  • the textile support is made iron-on by depositing a discontinuous layer of hot-melt polymer on at least one of the faces of said support.
  • This layer is arranged in the form of points and is formed for example co-polyamides, co-polyester, polyurethane, polyethylene or other polymers commonly used in the interfacing industry fusible.
  • the application of the layer is conventionally carried out by techniques among which we can cite screen printing techniques single or double dot printing of a dispersion of fine powders hot melt polymers in aqueous phase, or dot printing in dry powder by means of engraved cylinders or even printing by transfer.
  • the textile support can then be laminated via the layer hot-melt, especially on clothing linings or draperies strengthen.

Landscapes

  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Knitting Of Fabric (AREA)
  • Woven Fabrics (AREA)
  • Treatment Of Fiber Materials (AREA)
  • Details Of Garments (AREA)
  • Lining Or Joining Of Plastics Or The Like (AREA)
  • Laminated Bodies (AREA)

Claims (10)

  1. Textilträger für wärmehaftendes Gewebe vom aus einem Stoff, einem Maschengestrick oder einem Einschussmaschengestrick gebildeten Typ, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass die Schussfäden und / oder die Kettfäden (1) des besagten Trägers aus wenigstens zwei Arten von kontinuierlichen texturierten Fasern (2, 3) gebildet werden, von denen wenigstens die Fasern (2) einer der Arten einen unterschiedlichen Retraktionsgrad zu dem der Fasern (3) der anderen Arten aufweisen.
  2. Textilträger gemäß Anspruch 1, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass der Träger nach dem Weben oder Wirken eine Endbearbeitung erfahren hat, die eine Retraktionsstufe derart beinhaltet, dass sie ihr die endgültigen Merkmale verleiht, insbesondere hinsichtlich des Volumens.
  3. Textilträger gemäß Anspruch 1 oder 2, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass die Fasern (3) eines ersten Typs einen um 30 % niedrigeren Retraktionsgrad aufweisen und die Fasern (2) eines zweiten Typs einen zwischen 30 % und 60 % inbegriffenen Retraktionsgrad.
  4. Textilträger gemäß Anspruch 1 bis 3, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass die Fasern (2, 3) in Abhängigkeit vom Typ, zu dem sie gehören, aus unterschiedlichem synthetischen Material gebildet werden.
  5. Textilträger gemäß Anspruch 1 bis 4, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass die Fasern (2, 3) in Abhängigkeit vom Typ, zu dem sie gehören, eine unterschiedliche Texturierungs-Einkräuselungsdichte haben.
  6. Textilträger gemäß Anspruch 1 bis 5, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass die Fasern (2, 3) in Abhängigkeit vom Typ, zu dem sie gehören, eine unterschiedliche Titrierung haben.
  7. Textilträger gemäß Anspruch 4, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass die den niedrigsten Retraktionsgrad aufweisenden Fasern (3) aus Polyester oder Polyamid 6.6 gebildet werden und die den höchsten Retraktionsgrad aufweisenden Fasern aus Polybutylen-Terephtalat, Polytrimethylen-Terephtalat, Polybutadien, Polyamid 6, Polypropylen oder Acryl gebildet werden.
  8. Textilträger gemäß Anspruch 6, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass die den niedrigsten Retraktionsgrad aufweisenden Fasern (3) eine niedrigere Titrierung als die den höchsten Retraktionsgrad aufweisenden Fasern (2) haben, zum Beispiel in der Größenordnung von 1,5 Dtex.
  9. Textilträger gemäß Anspruch 1 bis 8, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass er eine diskontinuierliche, wärmeschmelzbare, insbesondere in Form von Punkten auf wenigstens einer seiner Seiten angeordnete Polymerschicht derart umfasst, dass sie dem Kleidungsstück zugeordnet werden kann, das sie verstärken soll.
  10. Herstellungsverfahren eines Textilträgers gemäß Anspruch 9, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass es die folgenden Stufen umfasst:
    Weben oder Wirken des Textilträgers mit Schussfäden und / oder Kettfäden (1), welche aus wenigstens zwei texturierten, kontinuierlichen Fasertypen (2, 3) gebildet werden, von denen wenigstens die Fasern (2) des einen Typs einen von unterschiedlichen Retraktionsgrad von dem der Fasern (3) des anderen Typs aufweisen;
    Einkräuseln des besagten Textilträgers mit wenigstens einer Retraktionsstufe des besagten Trägers;
    Aufbringen einer diskontinuierlichen, wärmeschmelzenden Polymerschicht auf wenigstens einer der Seiten des besagten Trägers.
EP01400486A 2000-03-17 2001-02-23 Einbügelbares Textiles Trägermaterial und Verfahren zur Herstellung desselben Expired - Lifetime EP1136003B1 (de)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
FR0003459 2000-03-17
FR0003459A FR2806266B1 (fr) 2000-03-17 2000-03-17 Support textile thermocollant et son procede de fabrication

Publications (2)

Publication Number Publication Date
EP1136003A1 EP1136003A1 (de) 2001-09-26
EP1136003B1 true EP1136003B1 (de) 2003-08-20

Family

ID=8848221

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EP01400486A Expired - Lifetime EP1136003B1 (de) 2000-03-17 2001-02-23 Einbügelbares Textiles Trägermaterial und Verfahren zur Herstellung desselben

Country Status (7)

Country Link
EP (1) EP1136003B1 (de)
AT (1) ATE247393T1 (de)
DE (1) DE60100607T2 (de)
ES (1) ES2204811T3 (de)
FR (1) FR2806266B1 (de)
PT (1) PT1136003E (de)
TR (1) TR200301919T4 (de)

Families Citing this family (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
DE102006022494B4 (de) * 2006-05-13 2011-05-05 Hänsel Textil GmbH Textiler Einlagestoff
ES2391509B1 (es) * 2010-03-01 2013-10-09 Antonio PAREJO BOSSER Procedimiento para la obtención de un tejido urdido, y tejido obtenido mediante este procedimiento.

Family Cites Families (7)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
FR2546916B1 (fr) * 1983-06-02 1985-08-23 Jourquin Andre Etoffe a aspect gaufre, cloque, crepe et son procede d'obtention
US4761321A (en) * 1984-06-22 1988-08-02 Chicopee Corrugated woven fabric
DE3516828A1 (de) * 1985-05-10 1986-11-13 Hoechst Ag, 6230 Frankfurt Beschichtungsgrundgewebe
DE3925893A1 (de) * 1989-08-04 1991-02-07 Kufner Textilwerke Gmbh Vollsynthetische heisssiegelfaehige hemdeinlage
DE9417827U1 (de) * 1994-02-03 1995-01-05 Kufner Textilwerke GmbH, 81379 München Verstärkungseinlage für Krägen und Manschetten von Hemden
DE19644111C2 (de) * 1996-10-23 1998-12-24 Kufner Textilwerke Gmbh Elastische Einlage
ATE274084T1 (de) * 1998-07-01 2004-09-15 Malden Mills Ind Inc Doppelseitige polschlingenstrickware mit farbdifferenzierung zwischen vorder- und hinterseite

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
EP1136003A1 (de) 2001-09-26
ES2204811T3 (es) 2004-05-01
DE60100607T2 (de) 2004-06-17
DE60100607D1 (de) 2003-09-25
FR2806266B1 (fr) 2002-06-07
FR2806266A1 (fr) 2001-09-21
TR200301919T4 (tr) 2004-01-21
PT1136003E (pt) 2004-01-30
ATE247393T1 (de) 2003-09-15

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