EP0857800A2 - Procédé pour la fabrication d'une pièce de vêtement pourvue de bras dans un métier à tricoter rectiligne à deux fontures - Google Patents

Procédé pour la fabrication d'une pièce de vêtement pourvue de bras dans un métier à tricoter rectiligne à deux fontures Download PDF

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Publication number
EP0857800A2
EP0857800A2 EP98100579A EP98100579A EP0857800A2 EP 0857800 A2 EP0857800 A2 EP 0857800A2 EP 98100579 A EP98100579 A EP 98100579A EP 98100579 A EP98100579 A EP 98100579A EP 0857800 A2 EP0857800 A2 EP 0857800A2
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
needle bed
stitches
sleeves
sleeve
area
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Granted
Application number
EP98100579A
Other languages
German (de)
English (en)
Other versions
EP0857800B1 (fr
EP0857800B2 (fr
EP0857800A3 (fr
Inventor
Thomas Nonnenmacher
Henning Schmidt
Jürgen Schwenk
Achim Ulmer
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
H Stoll GmbH and Co KG
Original Assignee
H Stoll GmbH and Co KG
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Family has litigation
First worldwide family litigation filed litigation Critical https://patents.darts-ip.com/?family=7819594&utm_source=google_patent&utm_medium=platform_link&utm_campaign=public_patent_search&patent=EP0857800(A2) "Global patent litigation dataset” by Darts-ip is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution 4.0 International License.
Application filed by H Stoll GmbH and Co KG filed Critical H Stoll GmbH and Co KG
Publication of EP0857800A2 publication Critical patent/EP0857800A2/fr
Publication of EP0857800A3 publication Critical patent/EP0857800A3/fr
Publication of EP0857800B1 publication Critical patent/EP0857800B1/fr
Application granted granted Critical
Publication of EP0857800B2 publication Critical patent/EP0857800B2/fr
Anticipated expiration legal-status Critical
Expired - Lifetime legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/22—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting goods of particular configuration
    • D04B1/24—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting goods of particular configuration wearing apparel
    • D04B1/246—Upper torso garments, e.g. sweaters, shirts, leotards

Definitions

  • the invention relates to various methods of manufacture of a sleeved garment on a two bed flat knitting machine as a complete knitted fabric.
  • the sleeves and body part of the garment initially with separate thread guides made as tubular knitted fabrics and then connected to a uniform knitted fabric.
  • the present invention relates to three different methods of producing different ones Sleeve inserts, namely one just inserted Sleeves with a connection area perpendicular to the shoulder, of a slanted sleeve with slanted to the Shoulder connecting area between sleeves and Body part and a raglan sleeve.
  • the individual process steps can be found in claims 1 to 3.
  • Fig. 1 shows a sweater 10 with a torso part 12 and two Sleeves 13 and 14.
  • the connection areas 15 and 16 between the sleeves 13 and 14 and the body part 12 are by a dashed line indicated and run perpendicular to the Shoulders 17 and 18 of the pullover 10.
  • Fig. 2 illustrates the manufacture of those shown in Fig. 1 Connection areas 15 and 16 between the sleeves 13 and 14 and the body part 12 according to a method according to the invention.
  • the areas of the needle beds for the left and right sleeves are highlighted in dark, while the needle area for the fuselage part is highlighted in light gray. All rows of stitches open
  • the front and back needle bed are made with the same thread guide knitted.
  • the ratio of the rows knitted in the Body part to the knitted rows in the sleeve is 2: 1. The ratio can be varied without thereby reducing the inventive Leave procedure.
  • row 1 there is a first knitting system in the direction of the slide from right to left with needles b25 to b1 one Row of stitches on the back needle bed in the area of both Sleeves and torso formed and in row 2 with one another knitting system the stitches of the right sleeve in the Needles b25 to b21 of the rear needle bed into the needles B25 to B21 of the front needle bed and the stitches of the left Sleeves in the needles A5 to A1 of the front needle bed in the Transfer needles a5 to a1 of the rear needle bed.
  • Row 5 is in the direction of the sledge from left to right with needles A4 to A21 on the front Needle bed in the area of the left sleeve and the body part formed a course. Then it will be in series 6 in the opposite direction of the slide and with the needles A21 to A6 on the front needle bed in the area of the fuselage and in row 7 in the direction of the slide from left to right and with the needles A6 to A22 again on the front needle bed in the A row of stitches in the area of the torso and the right sleeve educated.
  • Row 8 is in the opposite direction of the slide and with the needles b22 to b6 on the back needle bed in the area of the right sleeve and the entire body part knitted a row of stitches.
  • row 9 in Slide direction from left to right and with the needles b6 up to b20 in the area of the fuselage on the rear needle bed Knitted a row of stitches before in row 10 in the direction of the carriage from right to left and with needles b20 to b4 in the area of the torso and the left sleeve on the back A row of stitches is formed.
  • row 11 is in the direction of the slide from left to right and with the Needles A4 to A22 in the area of both sleeves and the body part a row of stitches is formed on the front needle bed. The The steps shown can be repeated until the body part is finished and the sleeves are complete are connected.
  • FIG 3 shows a further sweater 20 with a body part 22 and two sleeves 23 and 24, but here the connection areas 25 and 26 between sleeves 23 and 24 and the Body part 22 obliquely to the shoulders 27 and 28 of the sweater 20 run.
  • FIG. 4 is an inventive one based on a stitch course Process for producing such an inclined Connection between sleeves 23 and 24 and the Body part 22 of a sweater shown. Again, again all rows of stitches on the front and back needle bed knitted with the same thread guide.
  • the shape of the tubular knitted fabric consisting of body part and attached sleeves is achieved through reduced operations. In rows 3 to 5 there is a reduction in the fuselage part and in the Rows 10 to 12, 17 to 19 and 24 and 26 a reduction the sleeve.
  • the number of knitted between the minimum operations Stitch rows can vary depending on the shape of the sweater vary; this also applies to the number of reduced per step Mesh, because the slope of the connection area depends on this between the body part and sleeves.
  • Fig. 4 The example shown is the ratio of the number of Reduced part of the trunk to the number of sleeve reductions 1: 3 each the higher the proportion of sleeves, the steeper it is the connection area between the sleeves and the Fuselage.
  • row 1 there is a first knitting system in the direction of the slide from left to right with needles A2 to A33 Row of stitches formed on the front needle bed before in Row 2 in the opposite carriage direction and with the Needles b32 to b1 one row of stitches on the back needle bed is formed.
  • the stitches A2 to A13 are from front needle bed on the back needle bed and the stitches b21 to b32 from the rear needle bed to the front needle bed reassigned.
  • Row 4 will be after a needle bed offset all stitches hanging on the back needle bed in the Area of needles b1 to b12 and a2 to a13 on needles B3 reassigned to B14 and A4 to A15.
  • a first begins at row 10 Reduced process for the two sleeves. For this, the stitches in the needles A4 to A11 of the front needle bed into the needles a4 to a11 of the back needle bed and the stitches in the needles b23 to b30 of the rear needle bed into the needles B23 to B30 slung over the front needle bed.
  • rows 13 to 16 there will be two Row of stitches with needles A6 to A29 of the front needle bed and the needles b5 to b28 of the rear needle bed.
  • a new reduction process begins for row 17 Sleeve.
  • the stitches of the needles A6 to A11 of the front needle bed into the needles a6 to a11 of the rear Needle bed and the stitches in the needles b23 to b28 des rear needle bed into the needles B23 to B28 of the front The needle bed.
  • rows 20 to 23 are again two rows of stitches with the needles A8 to A27 of the front needle bed and b7 to b26 of the rear needle bed formed before moving in the rows 24 to 26 is followed by a reduction process for the sleeves.
  • row 25 are after a The stitches on the needles b7 to b10 and a8 to a11 of the rear needle bed on needles B9 to B12 and A10 to A13 of the front needle bed and the stitches in needles B23 to B26 and A24 to A27 of the front needle bed transferred to needles b21 to b24 and a22 to a25. Subsequently in row 26 there is a hanging back of the back stitches from the needles B9 to B12 of the front needle bed into needles b9 to b12 of the rear needle bed and one Suspend the front stitches from needles a22 to a25 of the rear needle bed into the needles A22 to A25 of the front Needle bed. You can then follow the steps of the rows Repeat 1 to 26 until the sleeves are complete are connected to the fuselage.
  • FIG. 5 shows a third version of a sweater 30 made by a body part 32 and two raglan sleeves 33 and 34 are formed becomes.
  • the connection areas 35 and 36 of the sleeves 33 and 34 with the body part 32 run obliquely from the underside of the sleeves to the neckline 37 of the sweater 30.
  • the connection is through Reduced operations achieved on the body part and on the sleeves.
  • the Rows 3 to 5 reduce the number of stitches of the fuselage part and in rows 8 to 10 a reduction the sleeve.
  • the rows knitted between the lesser operations can vary in number depending on the cut of the sweater. This also applies to the number of reduced per step Stitches. The greater the difference in the number of diminished Mesh between the body part and the sleeves is the more the minority area is becoming wider.
  • row 1 there is a first knitting system in the direction of the slide from left to right with needles A2 to A33 Row of stitches over both sleeves and the body part on the front Needle bed formed.
  • row 2 in opposite slide direction with the needles b32 to b1 also knit a row of stitches on the back needle bed both sleeves and the body part are knitted and with another Knitting system in row of 3 stitches of needles A2 to A8 of the front Needle bed into the needles a2 to a8 of the rear needle bed as well as the stitches of needles b26 to b32 of the back Into the needles B26 to B32 of the front needle bed reassigned.
  • row 4 the are after a needle bed offset Stitch needles b1 to b7 and a2 to a8 of the rear needle bed into needles B3 to B9 and A4 to A10 of the front Needle bed and the stitches B26 to B32 and A27 to A33 des front needle bed into needles b24 to b30 and a25 to a31 of the rear needle bed. Then takes place in Row 5 a hanging back the stitches of needles B3 to B9 des front needle bed into the needles b3 to b9 of the rear Needle bed and a transfer of the stitches of the needles a25 to a31 of the rear needle bed onto needles A25 to A31 the front needle bed.
  • row 9 after a needle bed offset stitch the needles b3 to b5 and a4 to a6 into the Needles B5 to B7 and A6 to A8 of the front needle bed and the stitches of needles B28 to B30 and A29 to A31 of the front Into the needles b26 to b28 and a27 to a29 of the rear needle bed.
  • row 10 there is a Hang the stitches of needles B5 to B7 on the front needle bed into the needles b5 to b7 of the rear needle bed and the stitches of needles a27 to a29 of the rear needle bed in needles A27 to A29 of the front needle bed.
  • the steps rows 1 to 10 are then repeated until until the sleeves are fully connected to the body part.

Landscapes

  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Knitting Machines (AREA)
  • Knitting Of Fabric (AREA)
  • Outer Garments And Coats (AREA)
EP98100579A 1997-02-07 1998-01-15 Procédé pour la fabrication d'une pièce de vêtement pourvue de bras dans un métier à tricoter rectiligne à deux fontures Expired - Lifetime EP0857800B2 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
DE19704646A DE19704646B4 (de) 1997-02-07 1997-02-07 Verfahren zur Herstellung eines mit Ärmeln versehenen Kleidungsstückes auf einer Zweibett-Flachstrickmaschine
DE19704646 1997-02-07

Publications (4)

Publication Number Publication Date
EP0857800A2 true EP0857800A2 (fr) 1998-08-12
EP0857800A3 EP0857800A3 (fr) 2000-03-15
EP0857800B1 EP0857800B1 (fr) 2004-04-14
EP0857800B2 EP0857800B2 (fr) 2007-12-26

Family

ID=7819594

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
EP98100579A Expired - Lifetime EP0857800B2 (fr) 1997-02-07 1998-01-15 Procédé pour la fabrication d'une pièce de vêtement pourvue de bras dans un métier à tricoter rectiligne à deux fontures

Country Status (6)

Country Link
US (1) US5916272A (fr)
EP (1) EP0857800B2 (fr)
JP (1) JP3013242B2 (fr)
CN (1) CN1086750C (fr)
DE (2) DE19704646B4 (fr)
ES (1) ES2219791T3 (fr)

Cited By (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
EP1055754A2 (fr) * 1999-05-28 2000-11-29 H. Stoll GmbH & Co. Procédé pour la fabrication de tricot tubulaire dans un métier à tricoter rectiligne

Families Citing this family (23)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
TW446774B (en) * 1998-08-28 2001-07-21 Shima Seiki Mfg Knitwear knitting method
TW480299B (en) * 2000-01-26 2002-03-21 Shima Seiki Mfg Method of knitting neck portion of knit wear by weft knitting machine and the knit wear
TW538161B (en) 2000-01-31 2003-06-21 Shima Seiki Mfg Knit wear knitting method
US6658899B2 (en) * 2000-02-29 2003-12-09 Shima Seiki Mfg., Ltd. Method of knitting neck of knit wear by weft knitting machine and the knit wear
KR100610760B1 (ko) * 2000-06-05 2006-08-09 가부시키가이샤 시마세이키 세이사쿠쇼 편성포의 접합방법 및 접합된 편성포
CN1813088B (zh) * 2003-02-14 2011-12-07 株式会社岛精机制作所 针织物及针织物的编织方法
JP4344210B2 (ja) * 2003-10-08 2009-10-14 株式会社島精機製作所 ラグラン袖を有するニットウェアの編成方法およびラグラン袖を有するニットウェア
JP4374309B2 (ja) * 2004-11-29 2009-12-02 株式会社島精機製作所 横編機で編まれたニットウエアおよびその編成方法
WO2006129686A1 (fr) * 2005-06-01 2006-12-07 Shima Seiki Mfg., Ltd. Tricot muni d'ouvertures sur une partie cylindrique d'un corps et procede de tricotage correspondant
EP1801275B1 (fr) 2005-12-20 2015-10-21 H. Stoll GmbH & Co. KG Procédé pour obtenir un vêtement à manches
CN102071525A (zh) * 2010-09-13 2011-05-25 宁波普罗蒂电脑横机有限公司 一种科学的织可穿编织技术工艺
JP5865748B2 (ja) * 2012-03-23 2016-02-17 株式会社島精機製作所 横編機による編地の編成方法
JP2014114513A (ja) * 2012-12-07 2014-06-26 Shima Seiki Mfg Ltd 筒状編地の編成方法、および筒状編地
US10368590B2 (en) 2015-11-03 2019-08-06 Nike, Inc. Flat-knit support garment for upper torso
CN105433491A (zh) * 2015-11-04 2016-03-30 南通杰克拜尼服帽有限公司 一种四平针花纹收口针织帽
US10415164B2 (en) 2017-05-02 2019-09-17 Nike, Inc. Upper-torso garment with three-dimensional knit structures
US10912340B2 (en) 2017-05-02 2021-02-09 Nike, Inc. Upper-torso garment with tubular-jacquard knit structure
US10145042B2 (en) 2017-05-02 2018-12-04 Nike, Inc. Upper-torso garment with tubular-jacquard knit structure
US10179960B2 (en) 2017-05-02 2019-01-15 Nike, Inc. Upper-torso garment with tubular-jacquard knit structure
US11142854B2 (en) 2018-10-03 2021-10-12 Nike, Inc. Upper-torso garment with three-dimensional knit structures
CN112176517B (zh) * 2020-09-30 2021-11-30 嘉兴市蒂维时装有限公司 一种提高横机全成型服装编织效率的编织方法
CN112609306B (zh) * 2020-12-10 2022-04-05 嘉兴市蒂维时装有限公司 一种全成型横机服装的夹位结构编织方法及其夹位结构
CN114836885B (zh) * 2022-05-21 2024-05-24 嘉兴市蒂维时装有限公司 全成型平肩圆领服装左肩部纱嘴线头带入结构的编织方法

Citations (9)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
GB1183574A (en) * 1966-06-07 1970-03-11 Courtaulds Ltd Knitting Method
GB1265308A (fr) * 1968-07-22 1972-03-01 Courtaulds Ltd
US3664156A (en) * 1969-06-18 1972-05-23 Courtaulds Ltd Garment and method of making it
US3668898A (en) * 1968-09-23 1972-06-13 Courtaulds Ltd Knitting methods
US3695063A (en) * 1969-10-31 1972-10-03 Courtaulds Ltd Knitting method and knitted garment
EP0470789A2 (fr) * 1990-08-06 1992-02-12 Shima Seiki Mfg., Ltd. Procédé pour tricoter un vêtement au moyen d'un nombre de chariots
EP0533612A2 (fr) * 1991-09-19 1993-03-24 José Maria Picaza Azpiroz Procédé pour le tricotage d'un revêtement sans ourlets sur métiers à tricoter rectilignes
US5214941A (en) * 1990-08-31 1993-06-01 H. Stoll Gmbh & Co. Process for producing a fully fashioned flat fabric for a garment equipped with sleeves
DE4439395A1 (de) * 1994-11-04 1996-05-09 Schieber Universal Maschf Strickverfahren

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DE1585477A1 (de) * 1965-07-21 1971-02-04 Vyzk Ustav Pletarsky Mehrteiliges Strickwarenerzeugnis
US3796068A (en) * 1971-04-08 1974-03-12 Courtaulds Ltd Knitting method
GB1528161A (en) * 1975-01-07 1978-10-11 Courtaulds Ltd Knitting method
DE2614283A1 (de) * 1976-04-02 1977-10-06 Stoll & Co H Verfahren zum maschinellen stricken eines einstueckigen bekleidungsstueckrohlings
GB1581530A (en) * 1976-08-24 1980-12-17 Courtaulds Ltd Knitting method
US4300365A (en) * 1978-11-20 1981-11-17 Courtaulds Limited Knitting method
JPS60194154A (ja) * 1984-03-07 1985-10-02 株式会社島精機製作所 横編機による袋編地の編成方法
ES8700343A1 (es) * 1985-11-25 1986-10-16 Picaza Azpiroz Jose Maria Proceso de tisaje de una prenda sin costuras en tricotosas rectilineas
DE4228408A1 (de) * 1992-08-26 1994-03-03 Stoll & Co H Verfahren zur Herstellung eines formgerechten, einstückigen Flachgestricks, für ein mit Ärmeln versehenes Kleidungsstück

Patent Citations (9)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
GB1183574A (en) * 1966-06-07 1970-03-11 Courtaulds Ltd Knitting Method
GB1265308A (fr) * 1968-07-22 1972-03-01 Courtaulds Ltd
US3668898A (en) * 1968-09-23 1972-06-13 Courtaulds Ltd Knitting methods
US3664156A (en) * 1969-06-18 1972-05-23 Courtaulds Ltd Garment and method of making it
US3695063A (en) * 1969-10-31 1972-10-03 Courtaulds Ltd Knitting method and knitted garment
EP0470789A2 (fr) * 1990-08-06 1992-02-12 Shima Seiki Mfg., Ltd. Procédé pour tricoter un vêtement au moyen d'un nombre de chariots
US5214941A (en) * 1990-08-31 1993-06-01 H. Stoll Gmbh & Co. Process for producing a fully fashioned flat fabric for a garment equipped with sleeves
EP0533612A2 (fr) * 1991-09-19 1993-03-24 José Maria Picaza Azpiroz Procédé pour le tricotage d'un revêtement sans ourlets sur métiers à tricoter rectilignes
DE4439395A1 (de) * 1994-11-04 1996-05-09 Schieber Universal Maschf Strickverfahren

Cited By (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
EP1055754A2 (fr) * 1999-05-28 2000-11-29 H. Stoll GmbH & Co. Procédé pour la fabrication de tricot tubulaire dans un métier à tricoter rectiligne
EP1055754A3 (fr) * 1999-05-28 2001-01-10 H. Stoll GmbH & Co. Procédé pour la fabrication de tricot tubulaire dans un métier à tricoter rectiligne
US6564588B1 (en) * 1999-05-28 2003-05-20 H. Stoll Gmbh & Co. Method for producing tubular knitted articles on a flat knitting machine

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
JPH1161603A (ja) 1999-03-05
EP0857800B1 (fr) 2004-04-14
DE19704646B4 (de) 2005-02-03
US5916272A (en) 1999-06-29
DE19704646A1 (de) 1998-08-13
JP3013242B2 (ja) 2000-02-28
EP0857800B2 (fr) 2007-12-26
CN1086750C (zh) 2002-06-26
DE59811169D1 (de) 2004-05-19
CN1196414A (zh) 1998-10-21
EP0857800A3 (fr) 2000-03-15
ES2219791T3 (es) 2004-12-01

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