EP1801275B1 - Procédé pour obtenir un vêtement à manches - Google Patents

Procédé pour obtenir un vêtement à manches Download PDF

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Publication number
EP1801275B1
EP1801275B1 EP05027835.7A EP05027835A EP1801275B1 EP 1801275 B1 EP1801275 B1 EP 1801275B1 EP 05027835 A EP05027835 A EP 05027835A EP 1801275 B1 EP1801275 B1 EP 1801275B1
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EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
stitches
der
sleeve
sleeves
body side
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Active
Application number
EP05027835.7A
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German (de)
English (en)
Other versions
EP1801275A1 (fr
Inventor
Henning Schmidt
Francesco Collura
Achim Ulmer
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
H Stoll GmbH and Co KG
Original Assignee
H Stoll GmbH and Co KG
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by H Stoll GmbH and Co KG filed Critical H Stoll GmbH and Co KG
Priority to EP05027835.7A priority Critical patent/EP1801275B1/fr
Priority to CNB2006101690616A priority patent/CN100572633C/zh
Publication of EP1801275A1 publication Critical patent/EP1801275A1/fr
Application granted granted Critical
Publication of EP1801275B1 publication Critical patent/EP1801275B1/fr
Active legal-status Critical Current
Anticipated expiration legal-status Critical

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Classifications

    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/22—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting goods of particular configuration
    • D04B1/24—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting goods of particular configuration wearing apparel
    • D04B1/246—Upper torso garments, e.g. sweaters, shirts, leotards
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2403/00—Details of fabric structure established in the fabric forming process
    • D10B2403/03—Shape features
    • D10B2403/033—Three dimensional fabric, e.g. forming or comprising cavities in or protrusions from the basic planar configuration, or deviations from the cylindrical shape as generally imposed by the fabric forming process
    • D10B2403/0333—Three dimensional fabric, e.g. forming or comprising cavities in or protrusions from the basic planar configuration, or deviations from the cylindrical shape as generally imposed by the fabric forming process with tubular portions of variable diameter or distinct axial orientation

Definitions

  • the invention relates to a method for producing a sleeved garment on a flat knitting machine with at least two needle beds as tubular round finished knitted fabric, wherein the two sleeves and the body part are first made with separate yarn guides as tubular knits, according to the preamble of claim 1.
  • Such a method is for example from the EP 0 857 800 B1 known.
  • the object of the present invention in contrast, is to provide a method by which sleeves can be gently connected to a body part.
  • this object is achieved in an equally surprising and effective manner by a method having the features of claim 1.
  • a method having the features of claim 1. considerably fewer stitches must be transferred than in the prior art. The risk that a thread breaks, thereby significantly reduced.
  • the fuselage front side and the rear side of the fuselage are formed as flat knits on opposing needle beds during the tying of the sleeves.
  • the body part is split into a front part and a rear part.
  • a double stitch is knitted with the edge needles of the fuselage front side and the rear of the fuselage, and the connection of the fuselage part and sleeves is realized via the newly formed stitches.
  • At least one row of stitches is formed with all needles which carry stitches of the fuselage front side, and with all needles which carry stitches on the rear side of the fuselage, before sleeve stitches are again attached to meshes of the fuselage front side and / or fuselage back side.
  • the sleeves are tied in particularly effectively.
  • the sleeves are first formed before the tying process away from the body part, and when they are finished in their full length and shape, be moved by means of Umschtechnik toward the body part until they are with their innermost stitches on the needles, the left or directly to the right follow the needles occupied by the body part.
  • the fuselage front side and the rear side of the fuselage are preferably connected by means of a chaining technique.
  • the connection of the fuselage front side and the fuselage back side can thus directly follow the tying of the sleeves.
  • a collar can be formed with needles in the front and rear needle bed, which are still covered with stitches after the Kettelvorgang.
  • any collar shapes are conceivable.
  • the garment can be made entirely on the knitting machine. Further operations are not necessary.
  • the sleeve stitches are transferred from needle to needle. If this Um yogatechnik is applied, so can be formed for the knitted piece with at most every second needle stitches. Each stitch-bearing needle must be provided with an empty needle opposite.
  • the sleeve stitches are transferred via transfer elements.
  • the knitted piece can be formed with all needles or in any Nadeleinannon.
  • FIGS. 1a - 1c show a schematic representation of the course of the sleeve connection with the body part according to the invention.
  • FIG. 1a the dot-dash line A represents the last row of knitting that has been made before the sleeve connection to the torso part has to start.
  • the body part 2 was formed with the yarn guide 20 as a tubular knit to the length from which the sleeves 3, 4 must be connected to this.
  • the body part 2 can, as shown, arise in unchanged width BK, or be changed by reduction and increase techniques in its width.
  • the left sleeve 3 and the right sleeve 4 were formed in their full length LA with the thread guides 30 and 40 as tubular knits.
  • the sleeves 3, 4 can be made to increase continuously up to their width BA or can be given any shape by sectoral increase or sectoral reduction.
  • the needles are covered with the stitches with which the connection to the body part takes place.
  • these stitches need not all have been formed in the last row of knitting, because the connecting contour of a sleeve may also have been produced by means of a padding technique, in particular if a wrinkle-free fit of the finished pullover is to be achieved in the shoulder area.
  • the left sleeve 3 and the right sleeve 4 are moved by means of Um yogatechnik in the direction of the fuselage part 2 until they are with their innermost stitches on the needles that follow left and right directly to occupied by the body part 2 needles.
  • the fuselage front side 2 'with the yarn guide 20 and the fuselage back side 2 "with the yarn guide 25 are formed as flat knits.
  • the stitches of the fuselage front side 2 'wear is formed with the yarn guide 20 at least one row of stitches, and with the yarn guide 25 is at least one row of stitches with all needles, which carry stitches for the rear hull formed.
  • a double stitch is knitted with the edge needles of the fuselage front side 2 'and the trunk back side 2 ", and the connection between the trunk part and the sleeve is realized via the newly formed stitches.
  • the sleeve mesh is located behind each of these edge needles Fuselage section mesh.
  • the trunk part mesh comes to the visible side of the knitted fabric. This results in a visually very homogeneous course of the connection meshes on the fuselage front side 2 'and the fuselage back side 2 ".
  • the fuselage front 2' with the fuselage back side 2" becomes in the sectors 21 and 22 connected by means of Ketteltechnik.
  • the collar 5 is formed as a tubular knit.
  • FIG. 2 shows the knitting course of the sleeve connection with the body part according to a first embodiment of the invention, using a flat knitting machine with two oppositely arranged needle beds V, H, whose rear needle bed H performs the displacement movements.
  • the looping is done from needle to needle and the thread guide movement can only be done in dependence on the direction of movement of the carriage.
  • the thread guides 20,25 are back in their starting position.
  • This sequence according to the rows R2 - R31 is repeated until all stitches of the left and right sleeves are connected to the front and rear fuselages or the rear needle bed H has reached the left end position of its offset path. Once the end of the offset path is reached, all stitches on needles of the rear needle bed H are transferred to their opposite needles of the front needle bed and the back needle bed moved to the position of a needle spacing from the right offset end position. When the rear needle bed H has reached this position, the stitches which have been thereon before the return movement of the rear needle bed H are transferred from the needles of the front needle bed V to their opposite needles of the rear needle bed H, and the knitting process proceeds the knitting course in which he was interrupted because of the left Versatzend ein the rear needle bed H.
  • the number of knitting rows is identical to the illustrated sequence, but the stitches are arranged in mirror image to that on the front and rear needle bed V, H.
  • FIG. 3 shows the knitting course of the sleeve connection with the torso part according to a second embodiment of the invention, using a flat knitting machine with two oppositely arranged needle beds V, H and transfer element beds, which are arranged above the needle beds V, H, that the transfer elements mounted therein stitches of needles take over this needle bed V, H and can also hand back to needles of this needle bed V, H.
  • the transfer element beds are divided at their center, and each half can be moved away from and towards the center. Each transfer element can be brought into operation independently of the other transfer elements.
  • This process R2 -R5 is repeated until all the stitches of the left and right sleeves are connected to the fuselage front and rear, or the transfer element beds have reached their center position. Once this center position is reached, all the stitches located on the rear needle bed transfer elements are placed on the respective correspondence needles of the rear needle bed and the stitches on the front needle bed transfer elements are transferred to their respective ones Correspondence needles of the front needle bed are transferred.
  • the two halves of the transfer element bed above the front needle bed V and the two halves of the transfer element bed above the rear needle bed H are brought into their outermost offset position.
  • the stitches of the back of the left and right sleeves located on needles of the rear needle bed are transferred to their correspondence transfer members for the rear needle bed H and the stitches of the front needle bed V located on the front left and right sleeves to their correspondence transfer members for the front needle bed V.
  • the knitting sequence continues from the row of knits, in which he was interrupted because of the center position of the transfer element beds.

Landscapes

  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Knitting Machines (AREA)
  • Knitting Of Fabric (AREA)

Claims (9)

  1. Procédé de fabrication d'un vêtement à manches (3,4) sur un métier à tricoter rectiligne ayant au moins deux fontures (V, H) sous la forme d'un tricot fini tubulaire-circulaire, dans lequel on produit sous la forme de tricots tubulaires les manches (3, 4) et la partie (2) de tronc d'abord par des guide-fils (20, 30, 40) distincts et on forme, avant d'attacher les manches (3, 4) à la partie (2) de tronc, au moyen d'une technique de report, la partie (2) de tronc jusqu'à la longueur à partir de laquelle les manches doivent lui être reliées et on forme les manches (3, 4) à leur longueur et forme complètes, caractérisé en ce qu'on forme la partie (2) de tronc et les manches (3, 4) sur les mêmes fontures (V, H) et en ce qu'on forme les manches (3, 4) avant l'opération d'attache, d'abord loin de la partie (2) de tronc et, lorsqu'elles sont finies de tricotage à leur longueur complète, on les déplace au moyen de la technique de report en direction de la partie (2) de tronc jusqu'à ce qu'elles se trouvent, par leurs mailles les plus à l'intérieur, sur les aiguilles qui suivent, à gauche et à droite, directement les aiguilles occupées par la partie de tronc.
  2. Procédé suivant la revendication 1, caractérisé en ce que, pendant qu'on attache les manches (3, 4), on forme le côté (2') avant du tronc et le côté (2") arrière du tronc sous la forme de tricots rectilignes sur des fontures (V, H) opposées.
  3. Procédé suivant la revendication 1, caractérisé en ce que, lorsqu'on attache les manches (3, 4) à la partie (2) de tronc, au moyen d'une technique de report, seules les mailles de bord, provoquant la liaison des manches, participent à l'opération de report.
  4. Procédé suivant la revendication 2 ou 3, caractérisé en ce que, dans la partie comprise entre le début de l'endroit où sont attachées les manches et l'épaule (5), on reporte respectivement des mailles de manche suivantes sur des aiguilles qui portent des mailles du côté (2') avant du tronc ou du côté (2") arrière du tronc :
    a. la maille, la plus proche du côté (2") avant du tronc, du côté avant de la manche (3) gauche sur la maille, la plus à l'extérieur du côté gauche, du côté (2") avant du tronc ;
    b. la maille, la plus proche du côté (2") arrière du tronc, du côté arrière de la manche (3) gauche sur la maille, la plus à l'extérieur du côté gauche, du côté (2") arrière du tronc ;
    c. la maille, la plus proche du côté avant du tronc, du côté avant de la manche (4) droite sur la maille, la plus à l'extérieur du côté droit, du côté (2") avant du tronc ;
    d. la maille, la plus proche du côté (2") arrière du tronc, du côté arrière de la manche droite sur la maille, la plus à l'extérieur du côté droit, du côté (2') arrière du tronc.
  5. Procédé suivant l'une des revendications précédentes, caractérisé en ce que, avec toutes les aiguilles, qui portent des mailles du côté (2") avant du tronc, et avec toutes les aiguilles qui portent des mailles du côté (2') arrière du tronc, on forme respectivement au moins une rangée de mailles avant de reporter à nouveau des mailles de manche en des mailles du côté (2') avant du tronc et/ou du côté (2") arrière du tronc.
  6. Procédé suivant l'une des revendications précédentes, caractérisé en ce que, lorsqu'on atteint l'épaule (3), on relie le côté (2') avant du tronc et le côté (2") arrière du tronc au moyen d'une technique de remaillage.
  7. Procédé suivant l'une des revendications précédentes, caractérisé en ce qu'on forme un col par des aiguilles des fontures (V, H) avant et arrière, aiguilles qui sont occupées encore par des mailles après le remaillage.
  8. Procédé suivant l'une des revendications précédentes, caractérisé en ce que, lorsqu'on attache les manches (3, 4), on reporte les mailles de manche d'aiguille à aiguille.
  9. Procédé suivant l'une des revendications précédentes 1 à 7, caractérisé en ce que, lorsqu'on attache les manches (3, 4), on reporte les mailles de manche par des éléments de transfert.
EP05027835.7A 2005-12-20 2005-12-20 Procédé pour obtenir un vêtement à manches Active EP1801275B1 (fr)

Priority Applications (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
EP05027835.7A EP1801275B1 (fr) 2005-12-20 2005-12-20 Procédé pour obtenir un vêtement à manches
CNB2006101690616A CN100572633C (zh) 2005-12-20 2006-12-20 制造带有袖子的衣服的方法

Applications Claiming Priority (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
EP05027835.7A EP1801275B1 (fr) 2005-12-20 2005-12-20 Procédé pour obtenir un vêtement à manches

Publications (2)

Publication Number Publication Date
EP1801275A1 EP1801275A1 (fr) 2007-06-27
EP1801275B1 true EP1801275B1 (fr) 2015-10-21

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EP05027835.7A Active EP1801275B1 (fr) 2005-12-20 2005-12-20 Procédé pour obtenir un vêtement à manches

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EP (1) EP1801275B1 (fr)
CN (1) CN100572633C (fr)

Families Citing this family (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
JP5079682B2 (ja) * 2008-12-29 2012-11-21 株式会社島精機製作所 筒状編地編成用横編機および筒状編地の編成方法
CN102471961B (zh) * 2009-07-09 2013-11-27 株式会社岛精机制作所 具有袖和身片的针织品及其编织方法
JP5865748B2 (ja) * 2012-03-23 2016-02-17 株式会社島精機製作所 横編機による編地の編成方法

Family Cites Families (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
BE755148A (fr) 1969-08-26 1971-02-01 Courtaulds Ltd Vetements tricotes et leurs procedes de tricotage
ES8700343A1 (es) 1985-11-25 1986-10-16 Picaza Azpiroz Jose Maria Proceso de tisaje de una prenda sin costuras en tricotosas rectilineas
DE19704646B4 (de) 1997-02-07 2005-02-03 H. Stoll Gmbh & Co. Verfahren zur Herstellung eines mit Ärmeln versehenen Kleidungsstückes auf einer Zweibett-Flachstrickmaschine
US6668593B2 (en) * 2000-02-22 2003-12-30 Shima Seiki Mfg., Ltd. Knit wear neck part knitting method and knit wear

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Publication number Publication date
EP1801275A1 (fr) 2007-06-27
CN1986930A (zh) 2007-06-27
CN100572633C (zh) 2009-12-23

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