EP0504072B1 - Durchsichtige elastische Strickware - Google Patents

Durchsichtige elastische Strickware Download PDF

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Publication number
EP0504072B1
EP0504072B1 EP92420064A EP92420064A EP0504072B1 EP 0504072 B1 EP0504072 B1 EP 0504072B1 EP 92420064 A EP92420064 A EP 92420064A EP 92420064 A EP92420064 A EP 92420064A EP 0504072 B1 EP0504072 B1 EP 0504072B1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
twist
yarn
yarns
stretch
bulked
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Expired - Lifetime
Application number
EP92420064A
Other languages
English (en)
French (fr)
Other versions
EP0504072A1 (de
Inventor
Michel Buzano
Elisabeth Leibersperger
Maurice Laurent
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Rhone Poulenc Fibres SA
Original Assignee
Rhone Poulenc Fibres SA
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Rhone Poulenc Fibres SA filed Critical Rhone Poulenc Fibres SA
Publication of EP0504072A1 publication Critical patent/EP0504072A1/de
Application granted granted Critical
Publication of EP0504072B1 publication Critical patent/EP0504072B1/de
Anticipated expiration legal-status Critical
Expired - Lifetime legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/22—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting goods of particular configuration
    • D04B1/24—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting goods of particular configuration wearing apparel
    • D04B1/243—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting goods of particular configuration wearing apparel upper parts of panties; pants
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/14—Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials
    • D04B1/16—Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials synthetic threads

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to an elastic knit having a veil appearance.
  • Foam stockings and tights are obtained from classic textured false twist yarns or foamed yarns. They have a large volume, crimp and elasticity.
  • the knits prepared from these threads are flexible and soft but the tights obtained are covering and opaque.
  • the elasticity of the tights is obtained by the combination of the elasticity of the threads and the geometry of the stitches.
  • Sheer tights are light and transparent. They are obtained from non-swelling, "stretch” or “torque” yarns, which are generally multifilaments with large strands (4 to 7.5 dtex / strand), little or not bulky, having the appearance of 'a flat wire. These threads have a crimp and elasticity which are low to zero but a significant torque effect which gives them nervousness and aptitude for twisting. It is the nervousness and the ability to twist which, when used in hosiery give the product: stockings, tights ... its elastic character.
  • their production process consists in subjecting the wires to a low level of torsion and / or to a heat treatment at a lower temperature than for the foamed wires. They can be obtained by texturing by false twist with a skewer or by friction.
  • the knits obtained from stretch yarns are not very flattering: the stockings and tights are wide, irregular in appearance; they have hollow passages and the meshes are anarchic; the touch is pretty rough because of the title to the strand high yarn used; this strong strand strength is however necessary for obtaining the elastic performance sought after on knitting.
  • the leg the aspect is spider-like and transparent.
  • knits obtained from stretch yarns lack elasticity in width (compression); in particular they insufficiently marry the finest parts of the leg (the ankle), and have relatively permanent deformations, in use, at the knee in particular.
  • the veiled tights therefore have a much more flattering appearance than that of foam tights but an insufficient elasticity, clearly less than that of foam tights, their lack of elasticity and compression results in an important aptitude for peeling. .
  • the subject of the present invention is a knit that is both elastic, similar to foam knit, and moreover has a veil and transparent appearance.
  • foam and stretch yarns have a substantially identical title or a different title leading, on knitting, to an identical covering power.
  • the present invention also relates to a process for obtaining knitted fabrics which are both elastic and veil-like, consisting of knitting on a circular loom 4 scraps, two different threads based on polyamide, of cover substantially identical in the stretched state, arranged alternately and unconventionally according to the order of falls 1 to 4: 2 twisted Z wires, 2 twisted S wires or 2 twisted S wires and 2 twisted Z wires.
  • the final titer usable for obtaining such knits generally varies between 8 dtex and 22 dtex.
  • the foamed yarns used according to the present invention are conventional yarns obtained by false twist texturing preferably having a maximum of elasticity and a minimum of covering.
  • the strands thus chosen have a relatively high strand count, for example of the order of 3 to 6 dtex, and a preferentially low number of strands, 3 to 5 for example.
  • Their elasticity or contraction of crimp E% is greater than or equal to 40%, preferably from 50 to 80% (the measurement being made on a Texturmat commercial device - see the measurement method below, example 1).
  • Their torque effect is weak to very weak.
  • the torque effect depends on the strand titer, the molecular orientation of the strands, the module, etc.
  • the E% crimp contraction (Texturmat) of the stretch or torque yarns used is less than 5%.
  • the stockings and tights made from knitwear according to the invention come from stretch and foam yarns which, surprisingly, are arranged in an unconventional order, while the usual knitting of stockings and tights with a single type of yarn is made by alternating 1 row of twist yarn Z then 1 row of twist yarn S, so as to obtain a flat, balanced knit with good elasticity.
  • the alternation of tors Z / tors S is replaced by alternation of double tors Z - tors Z / tors S - tors S or alternation of double tors S / tors S then tors Z / tors Z with alternating stretch and foam yarns; preferably, the following double alternation is used: 1 twisted stretch yarn Z, 1 twisted foam yarn Z, 1 twisted stretch yarn S, 1 twisted foam yarn S.
  • the knits thus obtained, despite this double alternation of twists, are balanced and free from scratches; moreover, they are elastic and have a veil, transparent appearance on the leg, as well as good compression, including at the level of the thin parts of the leg. In particular, they have an elasticity very close to that of foam knits.
  • the foam and stretch yarns used must have a substantially identical dye affinity (kinetics, yield). They can be knitted on any known conventional material, at the usual speeds linked to the material used.
  • polyamide 6 or 66 can be produced from stretch and foam yarns based on polyamide 6 or 66, more particularly polyhexamethyleneadipamide (PA 66) or copolyamide containing at least 85% of hexamethyleneadipamide units and up to 15% of other units obtained in replacing, for example the starting adipic acid with another diacid such as terephthalic acid, sebacic acid, etc., or by replacing the two monomers with caprolactam for example.
  • the starting polyamides may also contain additives such as matting agents, stabilizing agents with regard to light, or with regard to heat, oxidation, additives intended to reduce accumulation static charges or to modify the ability to dye, etc.
  • the stockings and tights thus obtained have both the advantages of foam tights, namely an elasticity and a compression of substantially the same level, and the advantages of veil tights: their arachnean and transparent appearance.
  • Such knits are easy to dye in all colors, under the usual conditions for dyeing polyamide yarns, using acid or plastosoluble dyes.
  • the characteristics of knits are measured on a stockings dynamometer by the following method: Each end of the sample to be checked is hooked into the clamps of the dynamometer. We measure the length L0 of the sample without pretention. A load is gradually applied up to a predetermined value depending on the title of the wire and the number of stitches. The force / elongation curve is thus plotted and the length LM of the sample is determined under the predetermined load. We gradually remove the load and draw the return curve. The length LR is determined which is the length of the sample at the moment when the force is canceled (LR> L0). We are doing a second cycle. We determine L01, new length of the unpretentious sample (L01> L0, but L01 ⁇ LR because of a relaxation phenomenon).
  • a second force / elongation curve is drawn which, for the predetermined load, restores the length LM.
  • the LR1 is determined at the moment when the force is canceled, LR1 turns out to be practically equal to LR.
  • Force CN force corresponding to a deformation of the article of 200 mm for the thigh and 100 mm for the ankle.
  • Figure 1 shows the stretch knit of the prior art obtained from stretch son of 17 dtex / 3 strands, according to the method described in Example 1 (magnification 32 X).
  • FIG. 2 shows the knitted fabric obtained according to the invention, seen under a microscope with a magnification of 32 X, corresponding to Example 1.
  • FIG. 3 shows a foam knitting of the prior art made from title foam strands of 17 dtex / 3 strand, according to the method described in Example 1, with the same magnification.
  • the knit according to the invention has a transparent appearance which is little different from stretch knit, more specifically the special arrangement of the 2 by 2 stitches is noted. held in stretch mesh and gives the whole knit its good elasticity.
  • Figure 2 On the leg, the general appearance of the article (Figure 2) has regular, well-structured stitches, as opposed to the more cloudy and fuzzy knit, as shown in Figure 3.
  • the knitted fabric thus obtained on the finished article has very marked stripes making such an article non-marketable.
  • the knitted fabric thus obtained is unbalanced by the Z twist. It tends to turn on the leg when worn; it is not marketable.
  • Knitting is carried out in the manner indicated according to Example 1 with the following threads: - 1 polyamide 66 yarn, 13 dtex / 3 strands, shiny, round section, stretch type texturing, S twist and 1 Z twist thread, having the following characteristics: - elongation at break% 24.9 - CN / tex toughness 42.3 - crease contraction E% 2.63 - contraction of intermediate crimp 0.61 - torque effect 60.5 - secant module at 8% elongation 334.5 - 1 polyamide 66 yarn, 13 dtex / 3 strand, shiny, of round section, texturing type FT or foam, twisted S, and a twisted thread Z, having the following characteristics: - elongation at break% 29.7 - CN / tex toughness 42.5 - crease contraction E% 69.15 - contraction of intermediate crimp 57.3 - torque effect 1 - secant module at 8% elongation 224
  • the arrangement of the wires corresponds to that indicated in Example 1.
  • the knitted fabric obtained is transparent, elastic and has a veil appearance. It is balanced and does not spin.

Landscapes

  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Knitting Of Fabric (AREA)
  • Professional, Industrial, Or Sporting Protective Garments (AREA)
  • Materials For Medical Uses (AREA)
  • Woven Fabrics (AREA)

Claims (11)

  1. In Längsrichtung und in Querrichtung elastisches Gewirk, das ein schleierartiges Aussehen besitzt, gebildet aus zwei verschiedenen Fäden auf Polyamidbasis, dadurch gekennzeichnet, daß einer der Fäden ein Schaumfaden bzw. Bauschfaden und der andere ein "Stretch"-Faden ist,wobei diese Fäden eine Z- oder S-Drehung aufweisen und gemäß den weiter unten folgenden Anordnungen vorliegen:
    i) Stretchfaden Z-Draht, Bauschfaden Z-Draht/Stretchfaden S-Draht, Bauschfaden S-Draht;
    ii) Bauschfaden Z-Draht, Stretchfaden Z-Draht/Bauschfaden S-Draht, Stretchfaden S-Draht;
    iii) Stretchfaden S-Draht, Bauschfaden S-Draht/Stretchfaden Z-Draht, Bauschfaden Z-Draht;
    iv) Bauschfaden S-Draht, Stretchfaden S-Draht/Bauschfaden Z-Draht, Stretchfaden Z-Draht;
    und daß die Fäden einen im wesentlichen identischen Titer haben oder einen verschiedenen Titer haben, der auf dem Gewirk zu einem identischen Deckvermögen führt.
  2. Elastiches Gewirk gemäß Anspruch 1, dadurch gekennzeichnet, daß die zwei Fäden einen im wesentlichen identischen Titer besitzen.
  3. Elastisches Gewirk gemäß Anspruch 1, dadurch gekennzeichnet, daß die beiden Fäden ein im wesentlichen identisches Deckvermögen besitzen.
  4. Gewirk gemäß Anspruch 1, dadurch gekennzeichnet, daß der Gesamttiter jedes Fadens, der das Gewirk bildet, zwischen 8 und 22 dtex liegt.
  5. Gewirk gemäß Anspruch 1, dadurch gekennzeichnet, daß das verwendete Polyamid das Polyamid 66 ist.
  6. Verfahren zur Erzielung eines Gewirks gemäß Anspruch 1, dadurch gekennzeichnet, daß man auf der viersystemigen Rundstrickmaschine zwei verschiedene Fäden auf Polyamidbasis mit im wesentlichen identischer Deckung in gespanntem Zustand wirkt, wobei einer ein klassischer texturierter Faden oder Bauschfaden ist und der andere ein Torquefaden oder Stretchfaden ist, wobei die Bausch- und Stretchfäden in alternierender Weise im Verhältnis zueinander, in nicht konventioneller Weise gemäß der Reihenfolge der Abstürze 1 bis 4 : zwei Fäden Z-Draht, zwei Fäden S-Draht oder zwei Fäden S-Draht, zwei Fäden Z-Draht angeordnet werden.
  7. Verfahren gemäß Anspruch 6, dadurch gekennzeichnet, daß die zwei Fäden nach der folgenden Anordnung plaziert sind: 1 Stretchfaden Z-Draht, 1 Bauschfaden Z-Draht, 1 Stretchfaden, S-Draht und ein Bauschfaden S-Draht.
  8. Verfahren gemäß Anspruch 6, dadurch gekennzeichnet, daß die beiden Fäden einen im wesentlichen identischen Titer besitzen.
  9. Verfahren gemäß Anspruch 6, dadurch gekennzeichnet, daß die beiden Fäden ein im wesentlichen identisches Deckvermögen aufweisen.
  10. Verfahren gmäß Anspruch 6, dadurch gekennzeichnet, daß der Gesamttiter jedes Fadens, der das Gewirk bildet, zwischen 8 und 22 dtex ist.
  11. Verfahren gemäß Anspruch 6, dadurch gekennzeichnet, daß das verwendete Polyamid das Polyamid 66 ist.
EP92420064A 1991-03-14 1992-03-03 Durchsichtige elastische Strickware Expired - Lifetime EP0504072B1 (de)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
FR9103360 1991-03-14
FR9103360A FR2673957B1 (fr) 1991-03-14 1991-03-14 Tricot elastique a aspect voile.

Publications (2)

Publication Number Publication Date
EP0504072A1 EP0504072A1 (de) 1992-09-16
EP0504072B1 true EP0504072B1 (de) 1995-11-08

Family

ID=9410917

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
EP92420064A Expired - Lifetime EP0504072B1 (de) 1991-03-14 1992-03-03 Durchsichtige elastische Strickware

Country Status (7)

Country Link
EP (1) EP0504072B1 (de)
AT (1) ATE130057T1 (de)
DE (1) DE69205864T2 (de)
DK (1) DK0504072T3 (de)
ES (1) ES2079823T3 (de)
FR (1) FR2673957B1 (de)
GR (1) GR3018813T3 (de)

Families Citing this family (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US11033073B2 (en) 2017-07-13 2021-06-15 Under Armour, Inc. Embroidered foaming cords for midsoles

Family Cites Families (5)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CH340941A (de) * 1954-05-10 1959-09-15 Patentex Inc Maschenware
US2771759A (en) * 1954-08-03 1956-11-27 Patentex Inc Textile product and method
CH384123A (de) * 1961-06-08 1964-11-15 Sander Werner Verfahren zur Herstellung von Maschenware
GB1266135A (de) * 1968-02-10 1972-03-08
BE756219A (fr) * 1969-09-15 1971-03-01 Bayer Ag Bas pour femmes a elasticites transversale et longitudinale et notamment collant fin

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
GR3018813T3 (en) 1996-04-30
FR2673957A1 (fr) 1992-09-18
EP0504072A1 (de) 1992-09-16
ATE130057T1 (de) 1995-11-15
DE69205864D1 (de) 1995-12-14
DE69205864T2 (de) 1996-08-01
FR2673957B1 (fr) 1993-05-28
DK0504072T3 (da) 1995-12-27
ES2079823T3 (es) 1996-01-16

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