EP0103129B1 - Corset, spécialement soutien-gorge - Google Patents

Corset, spécialement soutien-gorge Download PDF

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Publication number
EP0103129B1
EP0103129B1 EP19830107475 EP83107475A EP0103129B1 EP 0103129 B1 EP0103129 B1 EP 0103129B1 EP 19830107475 EP19830107475 EP 19830107475 EP 83107475 A EP83107475 A EP 83107475A EP 0103129 B1 EP0103129 B1 EP 0103129B1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
fabric
threads
bodice
part according
basic
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Expired
Application number
EP19830107475
Other languages
German (de)
English (en)
Other versions
EP0103129A1 (fr
Inventor
Arwed W. Fischer
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Individual
Original Assignee
Individual
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Individual filed Critical Individual
Priority to AT83107475T priority Critical patent/ATE19185T1/de
Publication of EP0103129A1 publication Critical patent/EP0103129A1/fr
Application granted granted Critical
Publication of EP0103129B1 publication Critical patent/EP0103129B1/fr
Expired legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B21/00—Warp knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B21/20—Warp knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting articles of particular configuration
    • D04B21/207—Wearing apparel or garment blanks
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41—WEARING APPAREL
    • A41C—CORSETS; BRASSIERES
    • A41C3/00—Brassieres
    • A41C3/0014—Brassieres made from one piece with one or several layers
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B21/00—Warp knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B21/14—Fabrics characterised by the incorporation by knitting, in one or more thread, fleece, or fabric layers, of reinforcing, binding, or decorative threads; Fabrics incorporating small auxiliary elements, e.g. for decorative purposes
    • D04B21/18—Fabrics characterised by the incorporation by knitting, in one or more thread, fleece, or fabric layers, of reinforcing, binding, or decorative threads; Fabrics incorporating small auxiliary elements, e.g. for decorative purposes incorporating elastic threads
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2201/00—Cellulose-based fibres, e.g. vegetable fibres
    • D10B2201/01—Natural vegetable fibres
    • D10B2201/02—Cotton
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2401/00—Physical properties
    • D10B2401/04—Heat-responsive characteristics
    • D10B2401/041—Heat-responsive characteristics thermoplastic; thermosetting
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2403/00—Details of fabric structure established in the fabric forming process
    • D10B2403/01—Surface features
    • D10B2403/011—Dissimilar front and back faces
    • D10B2403/0114—Dissimilar front and back faces with one or more yarns appearing predominantly on one face, e.g. plated or paralleled yarns
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2403/00—Details of fabric structure established in the fabric forming process
    • D10B2403/02—Cross-sectional features
    • D10B2403/021—Lofty fabric with equidistantly spaced front and back plies, e.g. spacer fabrics
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2501/00—Wearing apparel
    • D10B2501/02—Underwear
    • Y—GENERAL TAGGING OF NEW TECHNOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENTS; GENERAL TAGGING OF CROSS-SECTIONAL TECHNOLOGIES SPANNING OVER SEVERAL SECTIONS OF THE IPC; TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC CROSS-REFERENCE ART COLLECTIONS [XRACs] AND DIGESTS
    • Y10—TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC
    • Y10T—TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER US CLASSIFICATION
    • Y10T428/00—Stock material or miscellaneous articles
    • Y10T428/24—Structurally defined web or sheet [e.g., overall dimension, etc.]
    • Y10T428/24628—Nonplanar uniform thickness material
    • Y10T428/24661—Forming, or cooperating to form cells
    • Y—GENERAL TAGGING OF NEW TECHNOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENTS; GENERAL TAGGING OF CROSS-SECTIONAL TECHNOLOGIES SPANNING OVER SEVERAL SECTIONS OF THE IPC; TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC CROSS-REFERENCE ART COLLECTIONS [XRACs] AND DIGESTS
    • Y10—TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC
    • Y10T—TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER US CLASSIFICATION
    • Y10T428/00—Stock material or miscellaneous articles
    • Y10T428/249921—Web or sheet containing structurally defined element or component
    • Y10T428/249923—Including interlaminar mechanical fastener
    • Y—GENERAL TAGGING OF NEW TECHNOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENTS; GENERAL TAGGING OF CROSS-SECTIONAL TECHNOLOGIES SPANNING OVER SEVERAL SECTIONS OF THE IPC; TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC CROSS-REFERENCE ART COLLECTIONS [XRACs] AND DIGESTS
    • Y10—TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC
    • Y10T—TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER US CLASSIFICATION
    • Y10T442/00—Fabric [woven, knitted, or nonwoven textile or cloth, etc.]
    • Y10T442/40—Knit fabric [i.e., knit strand or strip material]
    • Y10T442/45—Knit fabric is characterized by a particular or differential knit pattern other than open knit fabric or a fabric in which the strand denier is specified
    • Y10T442/456—Including additional strand inserted within knit fabric
    • Y10T442/463—Warp knit insert strand

Definitions

  • the invention relates to a corsetry part, in particular a brassiere, with an outer and inner side each formed by knitted fabric and a textile filling material arranged between them.
  • voluminous textile materials are processed, which have to be characterized by a large volume with simultaneous softness of the goods.
  • laminates are used for this ("fibrefill •), which consist of a knitted or knitted inner fabric that forms the inside to be worn on the body and an outer or outer fabric that gives the outside, which is also formed by a knitted or knitted fabric.
  • a textile filling material is arranged between the inner and outer fabric, which gives the whole textile, and therefore also the bodice made from it, the desired volume.
  • This filler material often consists of a non-woven fabric that is glued to the lower fabric and the outer fabric or is simply glued to the lower fabric and sewn to the outer fabric.
  • the fibers of the filling material are hindered in their freedom of movement, which results in an impairment of the elasticity and the air permeability of the textile material. If the filler material layer is only glued to one, for example the lower material, then the sewing of the material must be done with relatively great care, because at the same time the inner material must be sewn to the outer material and the filler material layer.
  • warp knitting In warp knitting it is known ("Warp knitting by H.-P. Weber, Melliand Textile Reports, Heidelberg, 1971, pages, 61, 62) to proceed in the production of cutting plush in such a way that a so-called double knit is first produced as an intermediate product consists of two warp knitted fabrics, each worked on a row of needles of a warp knitting or Raschel machine with two rows of needles, between which threads embedded in the knitted fabrics extend. These threads are then cut directly in the machine, so that two separate cutting plush tracks are created, which are typically used as textile flooring (velor) or artificial turf, etc.
  • Such warp knitted plush goods are neither intended nor suitable for corsetry parts.
  • the object of the invention is therefore to provide a corsetry part, in particular a brassiere, which contains a voluminous textile material which is completely adhesive-free, is distinguished by a large volume corresponding to the respective requirements and is easy to process and, if desired, has a high elasticity having.
  • the corsetry part according to the invention is characterized in that it is made at least in part from a double-faced warp knitted fabric with at least three laying rails on a warp knitting or Raschel machine with two rows of needles with filler threads formed by long sinker stitches, the filler threads of which lie between the extend at a distance from each other and worked on a row of needles and are integrated into them.
  • This warp knitted fabric is produced in one operation, the upper and lower fabric formed by the two basic knitted fabrics being produced in a coherent manner with the filling material consisting of the filling threads.
  • the goods processed in this way are dyed and equipped and are then ready for assembly without an additional work step.
  • the base fabric forming the outside can be patterned, as is also possible that the two base fabrics are worked with different bindings.
  • a basic knitted fabric can advantageously be worked with a greater abundance and less transparency than the binding resulting from the other basic knitted fabric.
  • the filling thread can also be formed by at least two thread systems laid by separate laying rails in order to achieve a greater density of the filling material, for example.
  • the two thread systems can be processed in a reverse weave, which can improve the appearance of the textile.
  • the wearing comfort of a new bodice can be increased by working with cotton thread at least on the basic fabric forming the inside.
  • 100% synthetic fibers e.g. polyester or polyamide
  • the thread material which is expedient in view of the desired properties of the corsetry part can be selected, the length of the filler threads and thus the distance between the two base fabrics being able to be designed as desired.
  • the density of the filler material formed by the filler threads can also be precisely adapted to the respective requirements, with a larger thread size, a higher number of rows and a greater offset from row of needles to row of needles resulting in a greater density of the filler material, as well as the use of a further laying rail mentioned above on both rows of needles.
  • the filling threads are monofilament synthetic threads with high crush resistance.
  • the warp knitted fabric from 100% cotton as a whole or for the filler threads and one or the other basic knitted fabric, cotton or another natural fiber to use.
  • the entire corset is to be very elastic, the arrangement is expediently such that at least one of the base fabrics is worked with an elastic thread, preferably elastane.
  • the new corsetry part is therefore not only characterized by a high air permeability, but also by the fact that the filling threads, which are subject to compression, can oppose the compression of the fabric with a high elastic resistance, the size of which is determined by the appropriate choice of density, titer and material as well as Structure of the filaments can be changed within wide limits.
  • the corsetry part is made of a textile material consisting predominantly of thermoplastic threads, it can be shaped (molded) by the action of heat while being converted into the final shape.
  • the voluminous textile fabric illustrated in FIGS. 3 to 8 in various embodiments with the help of the respective laying and intended for the manufacture of corsetry, such as bras, is a two-layer warp knitted fabric which is produced on a Raschel machine with two needle bars, as schematically shown in FIG. 2 is illustrated.
  • the two needle bars are labeled 50; they each carry a row of needles 51.
  • the individual latch needles are each guided in slots in a tapping comb or milling plate 52, as is known per se.
  • the Raschel machine works with at least three laying rails 53, 54, 55, but there may also be a larger number of laying rails, in order to increase the pattern possibility, for example, with a patterned top of the goods or to lay several systems of filling threads, as will be explained in more detail below .
  • the front laying rail 53 and the rear laying rail 55 each work only on the front or rear row of needles 51 assigned to them. In doing so, they each form a basic fabric with their thread 56 and 57, respectively.
  • the two basic fabrics are indicated at 58, 59.
  • the middle laying rail 54 lays its thread 60 from one row of needles 51 to the other row of needles 51, the long sinker loops formed in this way forming filler threads which are formed between the two basic fabrics 58, 59, each spaced apart by a laying rail 53 or 55 extend and are integrated into this.
  • the filler threads which are designated as a whole by 61, thus form an elastic, absorbent and air-permeable filler material between the two base fabrics 58, 59 forming the outer fabric and the lower fabric.
  • the length of the filling threads 61 and thus the product thickness is determined by the needle bar or milling plate spacing 62.
  • the thickness of the goods can be changed as desired, the possible variations ranging from a very thin fabric, in which the two basic fabrics 58, 59 lie almost on top of one another, to a very thick fabric, in which the filling threads 61 have a correspondingly large length exhibit. This means that all fabric thicknesses required for the corset production can be created.
  • the density of the filling material formed by the filling threads 61 can also be determined in accordance with the respective requirements. A larger thread or thread size, a higher number of rows and a greater offset from row of needles to row of needles result in a greater density of the filler material, as does the use of any further middle laying bar laying on both rows of needles 51.
  • At least one laying rail 53 or 55 works on each of the two rows of needles 51 in such a way that it remains on this row of needles and does not rest on the respective opposite row of needles, avoids that the filling threads 61 forming and the connection between the two basic fabrics 58, 59 producing long sinker stitches, which are formed by the middle laying rail 54, migrate into the needle stitches, as a result of which the goods would become loose and flat.
  • the circuit board mesh have no way to get thread later, enlarge it and reduce the thickness of the goods.
  • the laying rail 54 works on both rows of needles 51 and the laying rail 55 on the rear row of needles 51, it is possible to produce non-patterned goods in a favorable manner.
  • the basic fabric forming the outside for example 58
  • the almost unlimited pattern possibilities known from warp knitting are available for this.
  • the laying can be changed; multiple laying rails can be used and the like.
  • middle guide rail 54 instead of the one middle guide rail 54, several middle guide rails can be used, each of which is assigned its own thread system and which work on both rows of needles 51. It is also advantageous if a particularly compact warp knitted fabric with tight stretch is to be produced, the basic fabric forming the outside to work with two laying rails, while only one laying rail is used for inserting the filler threads and for the basic knitting on the back.
  • the individual laying rails can of course work with the same or different threads. So it is z. B. advantageous when working with the rear laying rail 55 cotton and with the front and the middle laying rail 53 or 54 a polyester or a polyamide thread.
  • LS is abbreviated to laying rail.
  • the laying of the middle laying rail 54 is shortened in the embodiment according to FIG. 4 compared to that according to FIG. 3, which results in a lower filling thread density and a higher compression hardness because the filling threads 61 are more right-angled with respect to the base fabrics 58, 59.
  • the middle laying rail 54 runs in the opposite direction to the front laying rail 53, while in the embodiment according to FIG. 6 the arrangement is made just the other way round, so that the middle laying rail 54 runs parallel with the front laying rail 53 in order to do so to make the stitches straighter if this is advantageous in view of a more attractive appearance of the goods.
  • the front laying rail 53 lays over 2 (right / left twill closed) in order to achieve more fullness and less transparency on the front of the goods.
  • the same could also be provided on the back of the goods.
  • middle laying rail 54 While only one middle laying rail 54 is used in the embodiments according to FIGS. 3 to 6, two middle laying rails 54, 54a are used in the embodiment according to FIG. This has the advantage that the stitches are straighter, but on the other hand the filler thread density and thus the material consumption are greater.
  • FIG. Is worked with a middle laying rail 54 and a rear laying rail 55, but with two front laying rails 53, 53a, the front base fabric 58 having the weave pattern (atlas) shown in the figure.
  • corsetry and, in particular, bras are produced from the voluminous double-layer warp knit fabric described.
  • the goods are predominantly made of a thermoplastic synthetic thread material, for example polyester, as long as the proportion of cotton in the total weight does not exceed 35%, the textile material can even be deformed by the action of heat without the filler threads 61 acting as a volume-increasing filler material to lose.
  • the bra shown in FIG. 1 it is possible to form the cups 65 directly from the textile material, the textile material maintaining the thickness required to enlarge the external dimensions of the cups.
  • the layings produced by the individual laying rails can be made from suitably selected threads made of natural or synthetic fibers. If a high compression hardness of the filling material is important, monofilament polyester or polyamide threads can advantageously be used for the filling threads 61. If a high elasticity of the corsetry part is to be achieved, an elastic thread, preferably elastane (spandex), is used for at least one of the base fabrics 58, 59.
  • elastane elastane

Claims (9)

1. Partie de corset, en particulier soutien-gorge, comprenant une face d'endroit et une face d'envers respectivement formées par un tissu à mailles et un matériau de remplissage textile intercalé entre elles, caractérisée par le fait qu'elle est fabriquée au moins en partie en un tissu à mailles tricotées à deux faces élaboré avec au moins trois barres à passettes (53, 54, 55) sur un métier tricoteuse à chaînes ou métier Rachel à deux rangées d'aiguilles (51) avec fils de fourrure (61) constitués par de longues mailles formées par platine, dont les fils de fourrure (61) s'étendent entre les deux tricots de fond (58, 59) placés à distance et réalisés sur une rangée d'aiguilles (51) et sont liés dans ceux-ci.
2. Partie de corset selon la revendication 1, caractérisée par le fait qu'au moins le tricot de fond (58) constituant la face d'endroit est façonné (figure 8).
3. Partie du corset selon l'une des revendications précédentes, caractérisée par le fait que les deux tricots de fond (58, 59) sont réalisés avec armure différente.
4. Partie du corset selon la revendication 3, caractérisée par le fait qu'un tricot de fond est réalisé avec une armure donnant un plus grand remplissage et une plus faible transparence que dans l'autre tricot de fond (figure 5).
5. Partie du corset selon l'une des revendications précédentes, caractérisée par le fait que les fils de fourrure (61) sont formés par au moins deux systèmes de fils déposés par des barres à passettes séparées (figure 7).
6. Partie de corset selon la revendication 5, caractérisée par le fait que les deux systèmes de fils sont réalisés en armure opposée (figure 7).
7. Partie de corset selon l'une des revendications précédentes, caractérisée par le fait qu'au moins le tricot de fond (59) constituant la face d'envers est réalisé avec des fils de coton.
8. Partie de corset selon l'une des revendications précédentes, caractérisée par le fait que les fils de fourrure (61) sont des fils synthétiques monofilaments de haute résistance à la compression.
9. Partie de corset selon l'une des revendications précédentes, caractérisée par le fait que le tissu en mailles tricotées se compose principalement de fils thermoplastiques et est mis en oeuvre avec apport de chaleur avec passage à la forme définitive.
EP19830107475 1982-09-11 1983-07-29 Corset, spécialement soutien-gorge Expired EP0103129B1 (fr)

Priority Applications (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
AT83107475T ATE19185T1 (de) 1982-09-11 1983-07-29 Miederwarenteil, insbesondere buestenhalter.

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
DE3233793A DE3233793C2 (de) 1982-09-11 1982-09-11 Miederwarenteil, insbesondere Büstenhalter
DE3233793 1982-09-11

Publications (2)

Publication Number Publication Date
EP0103129A1 EP0103129A1 (fr) 1984-03-21
EP0103129B1 true EP0103129B1 (fr) 1986-04-16

Family

ID=6173005

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
EP19830107475 Expired EP0103129B1 (fr) 1982-09-11 1983-07-29 Corset, spécialement soutien-gorge

Country Status (6)

Country Link
US (1) US4601940A (fr)
EP (1) EP0103129B1 (fr)
JP (1) JPS59130304A (fr)
AT (1) ATE19185T1 (fr)
CA (1) CA1201898A (fr)
DE (1) DE3233793C2 (fr)

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DE10201350A1 (de) * 2002-01-16 2003-07-31 Mayer Textilmaschf Textiles Formteil, insbesondere Miederwarenteil
DE102005029755A1 (de) * 2005-06-24 2006-12-28 Heinrich Essers Gmbh & Co. Kg Formangepasste Abstandsgewirke und Verfahren zu ihrer Herstellung
WO2017016547A2 (fr) 2015-07-27 2017-02-02 Fiber Engineering Gmbh Pièce textile moulée par impression 3d et procédé de fabrication d'une pièce textile moulée par impression 3d
WO2017032419A1 (fr) 2015-08-27 2017-03-02 Müller Textil GmbH Élément formé par thermoformage profond et procédé de fabrication d'un élément formé par thermoformage profond

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Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
DE10201350A1 (de) * 2002-01-16 2003-07-31 Mayer Textilmaschf Textiles Formteil, insbesondere Miederwarenteil
DE10201350B4 (de) * 2002-01-16 2006-02-02 Karl Mayer Textilmaschinenfabrik Gmbh Textiles Formteil, insbesondere Miederwarenteil
DE102005029755A1 (de) * 2005-06-24 2006-12-28 Heinrich Essers Gmbh & Co. Kg Formangepasste Abstandsgewirke und Verfahren zu ihrer Herstellung
WO2017016547A2 (fr) 2015-07-27 2017-02-02 Fiber Engineering Gmbh Pièce textile moulée par impression 3d et procédé de fabrication d'une pièce textile moulée par impression 3d
DE102015112187A1 (de) * 2015-07-27 2017-02-02 Fiber Engineering Gmbh Textiles dreidimensionales Formteil und Verfahren zur Herstellung eines textilen dreidimensionalen Formteils
WO2017032419A1 (fr) 2015-08-27 2017-03-02 Müller Textil GmbH Élément formé par thermoformage profond et procédé de fabrication d'un élément formé par thermoformage profond

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EP0103129A1 (fr) 1984-03-21
DE3233793A1 (de) 1984-03-22
CA1201898A (fr) 1986-03-18
DE3233793C2 (de) 1985-07-25
US4601940A (en) 1986-07-22
JPS59130304A (ja) 1984-07-26
ATE19185T1 (de) 1986-05-15
JPS6331561B2 (fr) 1988-06-24

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