Classifications

• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
  • D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
  • D06M17/00—Producing multi-layer textile fabrics
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A41—WEARING APPAREL
  • A41D—OUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
  • A41D27/00—Details of garments or of their making
  • A41D27/02—Linings
  • A41D27/06—Stiffening-pieces
• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
  • D04H—MAKING TEXTILE FABRICS, e.g. FROM FIBRES OR FILAMENTARY MATERIAL; FABRICS MADE BY SUCH PROCESSES OR APPARATUS, e.g. FELTS, NON-WOVEN FABRICS; COTTON-WOOL; WADDING ; NON-WOVEN FABRICS FROM STAPLE FIBRES, FILAMENTS OR YARNS, BONDED WITH AT LEAST ONE WEB-LIKE MATERIAL DURING THEIR CONSOLIDATION
  • D04H1/00—Non-woven fabrics formed wholly or mainly of staple fibres or like relatively short fibres
  • D04H1/40—Non-woven fabrics formed wholly or mainly of staple fibres or like relatively short fibres from fleeces or layers composed of fibres without existing or potential cohesive properties
  • D04H1/54—Non-woven fabrics formed wholly or mainly of staple fibres or like relatively short fibres from fleeces or layers composed of fibres without existing or potential cohesive properties by welding together the fibres, e.g. by partially melting or dissolving
• • Y—GENERAL TAGGING OF NEW TECHNOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENTS; GENERAL TAGGING OF CROSS-SECTIONAL TECHNOLOGIES SPANNING OVER SEVERAL SECTIONS OF THE IPC; TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC CROSS-REFERENCE ART COLLECTIONS [XRACs] AND DIGESTS
  • Y10—TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC
  • Y10S—TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC CROSS-REFERENCE ART COLLECTIONS [XRACs] AND DIGESTS
  • Y10S525/00—Synthetic resins or natural rubbers -- part of the class 520 series
  • Y10S525/925—Polymer from at least one nonethylenic monomer having terminal ethylenic unsaturation other than polyurethanes, polyesters, polyepoxides, aminoplasts, and phenoplasts
• • Y—GENERAL TAGGING OF NEW TECHNOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENTS; GENERAL TAGGING OF CROSS-SECTIONAL TECHNOLOGIES SPANNING OVER SEVERAL SECTIONS OF THE IPC; TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC CROSS-REFERENCE ART COLLECTIONS [XRACs] AND DIGESTS
  • Y10—TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC
  • Y10T—TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER US CLASSIFICATION
  • Y10T442/00—Fabric [woven, knitted, or nonwoven textile or cloth, etc.]
  • Y10T442/20—Coated or impregnated woven, knit, or nonwoven fabric which is not [a] associated with another preformed layer or fiber layer or, [b] with respect to woven and knit, characterized, respectively, by a particular or differential weave or knit, wherein the coating or impregnation is neither a foamed material nor a free metal or alloy layer
  • Y10T442/2738—Coating or impregnation intended to function as an adhesive to solid surfaces subsequently associated therewith

Definitions

• the invention relates to a reinforcing interlining for garments, consisting of a nonwoven fabric with a content of at least 40% by weight, based on the fiber content, of thermally softenable fibers and of a surface coating made of a thermally softenable adhesive.
• Interlinings of the type specified above are glued to the inside of the outer fabric of clothing by an ironing process in order to improve the appearance, fit and drape in an appealing manner.
• the design mentioned at the outset is known from GB-PS No. 1415538. It consists of a nonwoven made of polyamide fibers, which is hardened by a vulcanized binder and which has an adhesive coating made of polyethylene.
• the softening temperature of the polyamide fibers is higher than that of the adhesive coating, and the heating required for ironing with an outer fabric can therefore be carried out at temperatures which exclude adverse effects on the dimensional stability of the nonwoven fabric with great certainty.
• the difficulty that the multilayer structure obtained can no longer be deep-drawn after the lamination without jeopardizing the strength of the connection between the interlining material and the outer material to a great extent.
• the invention has for its object to show an insert material that can be connected to an outer fabric by applying pressure and heat, which can be laminated on by conventional means and simultaneously or subsequently deep-drawn with the formation of bowl-like convexities.
• thermally softenable fibers have a softening temperature which is lower than the softening temperature of the adhesive and a shrinkage coefficient at softening temperature which is less than 3%.
• the stiffening material is preferably a nonwoven fabric with isotropic strength properties and directionally neutral formability. In this case, bulges can be attached as desired, which is a great advantage from a fashion point of view.
• Nonwovens in which the fibers are preferably oriented in one direction have a less neutral forming behavior, but a greater stiffness in the direction of the fibers.
• the preferred field of use of such nonwovens is therefore the areas in which directional shaping is carried out, such as the area of the collar and lapel.
• the proposed fabric can contain fibers of all known types, provided that it is ensured that at least 40% by weight of the fibers are heat-softening fibers which have a softening temperature below the softening temperature of the adhesive.
• a content of less than 40% by weight of the fibers mentioned can lead to inhomogeneities in the fiber structure during deep drawing and is therefore less recommendable.
• the fibers are preferably combined in a dry way, for example using a carding machine or an air laying device. They can be connected mechanically, for example by needling, and alone or, if necessary, additionally by an adhesive route. Mechanically crosslinked binders concentrated at the crossing points of the fibers are preferred. In addition to nonwovens, fabrics can of course also be used as interlinings.
• the difference between the softening temperature of the adhesive and the softening temperature of the fibers is preferably 20-60 ° C.
• the lamination can advantageously be combined with deep drawing within the stated range.
• polyamide is preferably used as an adhesive in a ratio of 40% by weight or more because acrylonitrile fibers have a softening temperature of 110 ° C or less under the influence of heat and water and an interlining which contains it in the ratio of 40% by weight or more, can be shaped with a finishing press, as is customary in tailoring and laundry.
• the stated softening temperature of the heat softenable fibers is the temperature at which the heat softening fibers begin to soften under the influence of dry or moist heat.
• the softening temperature of the adhesive is the temperature at which the viscosity of the resins is reduced to such an extent that they begin to hit the right side of the outer fabric.
• the textile fabric In addition to the heat-softenable fibers, which have a shrinkage coefficient of less than 3% at their softening temperature, the textile fabric must not contain any other fibers which have a greater shrinkage coefficient at this temperature. This prevents bubble-like detachment phenomena from occurring between the sheet and the outer fabric after lamination and deep-drawing. A corresponding disadvantageous effect naturally also occurs when the heat-softenable fibers have a larger shrinkage coefficient even at their softening temperature.
• Acrylonitrile fibers are preferably used as heat-softenable fibers, because at their softening temperature they show only a hardly noticeable shrinkage. If other fibers are present, their shrinkage behavior at the softening temperature mentioned can, if necessary, be caused by production or reduced to the required extent by a separate heat treatment.
• a typical fiber that has to be subjected to such shrinkage is, for example, the vinylidene chloride fiber, which is otherwise very suitable.
• the difference between the softening temperature of the adhesive and the softening temperature of the fibers should not exceed a range of 20 to 60 ° C. If the value is lower, there is a risk of delamination of the stiffening and the outer fabric during deep drawing using pressure and heat. With higher values, comparatively high working speeds can be achieved during lamination, but the heating of the adhesive required for lamination of the two flat structures can at the same time result in damage to the thermally softenable fibers of the stiffening insert, which is not desirable. It is therefore necessary to carefully control the supply of heat even at the limit.
• the production of a garment using the proposed interlining can preferably be carried out as follows.
• the outer fabric is connected to an interlining of the type proposed according to the invention by ironing on a flat carrier.
• the heat is preferably applied through the outer fabric in order to avoid destroying the heat-softenable fibers of the interlining.
• Neither the interlining nor the outer fabric is subjected to stretching during this process, and it is therefore easy to achieve a bond of uniform strength in all areas.
• the two-layer structure obtained in this way is then placed in a finishing press and deep-drawn under the action of pressure and heat.
• the temperatures used are substantially below the softening temperature of the adhesive and there is therefore no risk of delamination.
• the necessary increase in temperature of the two-layer structure can be accelerated by treatment with steam. Finish presses are usually equipped with an appropriate auxiliary device.
• the formed multilayer structure is then removed from the press tool and cooled. It is characterized by the shape of the curvature being retained.
• the molded part can be processed immediately.
• the proposed interlining does not tend to return to its original flat shape after deep drawing.
• Appropriately equipped items of clothing are characterized by their consistently good shape retention.
• the desired curvature or silhouette can be easily obtained by using the process described above with a finishing press. With the proposed interlining Equipped garments can therefore be worn much longer without affecting their shape retention than clothing that is usually fitted.

Landscapes

• Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
• Textile Engineering (AREA)
• Details Of Garments (AREA)
• Manufacturing Of Multi-Layer Textile Fabrics (AREA)
• Nonwoven Fabrics (AREA)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Publications (2)

Family

ID=13768162

Family Applications (1)

Country Status (5)

Families Citing this family (4)

Family Cites Families (5)

• 1981
  • 1981-05-28 JP JP8221481A patent/JPS57199874A/ja active Granted
• 1982
  • 1982-05-12 ZA ZA823290A patent/ZA823290B/xx unknown
  • 1982-05-18 US US06/379,297 patent/US4548860A/en not_active Expired - Fee Related
  • 1982-05-25 DE DE8282104544T patent/DE3260717D1/de not_active Expired
  • 1982-05-25 EP EP19820104544 patent/EP0065781B1/de not_active Expired

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