EP0065781B1 - Reinforcing lining for garments - Google Patents
Reinforcing lining for garments Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- EP0065781B1 EP0065781B1 EP19820104544 EP82104544A EP0065781B1 EP 0065781 B1 EP0065781 B1 EP 0065781B1 EP 19820104544 EP19820104544 EP 19820104544 EP 82104544 A EP82104544 A EP 82104544A EP 0065781 B1 EP0065781 B1 EP 0065781B1
- Authority
- EP
- European Patent Office
- Prior art keywords
- fibers
- softening temperature
- heat
- interlining
- adhesive
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
- Expired
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Classifications
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
- D06M17/00—Producing multi-layer textile fabrics
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A41—WEARING APPAREL
- A41D—OUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
- A41D27/00—Details of garments or of their making
- A41D27/02—Linings
- A41D27/06—Stiffening-pieces
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
- D04H—MAKING TEXTILE FABRICS, e.g. FROM FIBRES OR FILAMENTARY MATERIAL; FABRICS MADE BY SUCH PROCESSES OR APPARATUS, e.g. FELTS, NON-WOVEN FABRICS; COTTON-WOOL; WADDING ; NON-WOVEN FABRICS FROM STAPLE FIBRES, FILAMENTS OR YARNS, BONDED WITH AT LEAST ONE WEB-LIKE MATERIAL DURING THEIR CONSOLIDATION
- D04H1/00—Non-woven fabrics formed wholly or mainly of staple fibres or like relatively short fibres
- D04H1/40—Non-woven fabrics formed wholly or mainly of staple fibres or like relatively short fibres from fleeces or layers composed of fibres without existing or potential cohesive properties
- D04H1/54—Non-woven fabrics formed wholly or mainly of staple fibres or like relatively short fibres from fleeces or layers composed of fibres without existing or potential cohesive properties by welding together the fibres, e.g. by partially melting or dissolving
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- Y—GENERAL TAGGING OF NEW TECHNOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENTS; GENERAL TAGGING OF CROSS-SECTIONAL TECHNOLOGIES SPANNING OVER SEVERAL SECTIONS OF THE IPC; TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC CROSS-REFERENCE ART COLLECTIONS [XRACs] AND DIGESTS
- Y10—TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC
- Y10S—TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC CROSS-REFERENCE ART COLLECTIONS [XRACs] AND DIGESTS
- Y10S525/00—Synthetic resins or natural rubbers -- part of the class 520 series
- Y10S525/925—Polymer from at least one nonethylenic monomer having terminal ethylenic unsaturation other than polyurethanes, polyesters, polyepoxides, aminoplasts, and phenoplasts
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- Y—GENERAL TAGGING OF NEW TECHNOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENTS; GENERAL TAGGING OF CROSS-SECTIONAL TECHNOLOGIES SPANNING OVER SEVERAL SECTIONS OF THE IPC; TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC CROSS-REFERENCE ART COLLECTIONS [XRACs] AND DIGESTS
- Y10—TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC
- Y10T—TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER US CLASSIFICATION
- Y10T442/00—Fabric [woven, knitted, or nonwoven textile or cloth, etc.]
- Y10T442/20—Coated or impregnated woven, knit, or nonwoven fabric which is not [a] associated with another preformed layer or fiber layer or, [b] with respect to woven and knit, characterized, respectively, by a particular or differential weave or knit, wherein the coating or impregnation is neither a foamed material nor a free metal or alloy layer
- Y10T442/2738—Coating or impregnation intended to function as an adhesive to solid surfaces subsequently associated therewith
Definitions
- the invention relates to a reinforcing interlining for garments, consisting of a nonwoven fabric with a content of at least 40% by weight, based on the fiber content, of thermally softenable fibers and of a surface coating made of a thermally softenable adhesive.
- Interlinings of the type specified above are glued to the inside of the outer fabric of clothing by an ironing process in order to improve the appearance, fit and drape in an appealing manner.
- the design mentioned at the outset is known from GB-PS No. 1415538. It consists of a nonwoven made of polyamide fibers, which is hardened by a vulcanized binder and which has an adhesive coating made of polyethylene.
- the softening temperature of the polyamide fibers is higher than that of the adhesive coating, and the heating required for ironing with an outer fabric can therefore be carried out at temperatures which exclude adverse effects on the dimensional stability of the nonwoven fabric with great certainty.
- the difficulty that the multilayer structure obtained can no longer be deep-drawn after the lamination without jeopardizing the strength of the connection between the interlining material and the outer material to a great extent.
- the invention has for its object to show an insert material that can be connected to an outer fabric by applying pressure and heat, which can be laminated on by conventional means and simultaneously or subsequently deep-drawn with the formation of bowl-like convexities.
- thermally softenable fibers have a softening temperature which is lower than the softening temperature of the adhesive and a shrinkage coefficient at softening temperature which is less than 3%.
- the stiffening material is preferably a nonwoven fabric with isotropic strength properties and directionally neutral formability. In this case, bulges can be attached as desired, which is a great advantage from a fashion point of view.
- Nonwovens in which the fibers are preferably oriented in one direction have a less neutral forming behavior, but a greater stiffness in the direction of the fibers.
- the preferred field of use of such nonwovens is therefore the areas in which directional shaping is carried out, such as the area of the collar and lapel.
- the proposed fabric can contain fibers of all known types, provided that it is ensured that at least 40% by weight of the fibers are heat-softening fibers which have a softening temperature below the softening temperature of the adhesive.
- a content of less than 40% by weight of the fibers mentioned can lead to inhomogeneities in the fiber structure during deep drawing and is therefore less recommendable.
- the fibers are preferably combined in a dry way, for example using a carding machine or an air laying device. They can be connected mechanically, for example by needling, and alone or, if necessary, additionally by an adhesive route. Mechanically crosslinked binders concentrated at the crossing points of the fibers are preferred. In addition to nonwovens, fabrics can of course also be used as interlinings.
- the difference between the softening temperature of the adhesive and the softening temperature of the fibers is preferably 20-60 ° C.
- the lamination can advantageously be combined with deep drawing within the stated range.
- polyamide is preferably used as an adhesive in a ratio of 40% by weight or more because acrylonitrile fibers have a softening temperature of 110 ° C or less under the influence of heat and water and an interlining which contains it in the ratio of 40% by weight or more, can be shaped with a finishing press, as is customary in tailoring and laundry.
- the stated softening temperature of the heat softenable fibers is the temperature at which the heat softening fibers begin to soften under the influence of dry or moist heat.
- the softening temperature of the adhesive is the temperature at which the viscosity of the resins is reduced to such an extent that they begin to hit the right side of the outer fabric.
- the textile fabric In addition to the heat-softenable fibers, which have a shrinkage coefficient of less than 3% at their softening temperature, the textile fabric must not contain any other fibers which have a greater shrinkage coefficient at this temperature. This prevents bubble-like detachment phenomena from occurring between the sheet and the outer fabric after lamination and deep-drawing. A corresponding disadvantageous effect naturally also occurs when the heat-softenable fibers have a larger shrinkage coefficient even at their softening temperature.
- Acrylonitrile fibers are preferably used as heat-softenable fibers, because at their softening temperature they show only a hardly noticeable shrinkage. If other fibers are present, their shrinkage behavior at the softening temperature mentioned can, if necessary, be caused by production or reduced to the required extent by a separate heat treatment.
- a typical fiber that has to be subjected to such shrinkage is, for example, the vinylidene chloride fiber, which is otherwise very suitable.
- the difference between the softening temperature of the adhesive and the softening temperature of the fibers should not exceed a range of 20 to 60 ° C. If the value is lower, there is a risk of delamination of the stiffening and the outer fabric during deep drawing using pressure and heat. With higher values, comparatively high working speeds can be achieved during lamination, but the heating of the adhesive required for lamination of the two flat structures can at the same time result in damage to the thermally softenable fibers of the stiffening insert, which is not desirable. It is therefore necessary to carefully control the supply of heat even at the limit.
- the production of a garment using the proposed interlining can preferably be carried out as follows.
- the outer fabric is connected to an interlining of the type proposed according to the invention by ironing on a flat carrier.
- the heat is preferably applied through the outer fabric in order to avoid destroying the heat-softenable fibers of the interlining.
- Neither the interlining nor the outer fabric is subjected to stretching during this process, and it is therefore easy to achieve a bond of uniform strength in all areas.
- the two-layer structure obtained in this way is then placed in a finishing press and deep-drawn under the action of pressure and heat.
- the temperatures used are substantially below the softening temperature of the adhesive and there is therefore no risk of delamination.
- the necessary increase in temperature of the two-layer structure can be accelerated by treatment with steam. Finish presses are usually equipped with an appropriate auxiliary device.
- the formed multilayer structure is then removed from the press tool and cooled. It is characterized by the shape of the curvature being retained.
- the molded part can be processed immediately.
- the proposed interlining does not tend to return to its original flat shape after deep drawing.
- Appropriately equipped items of clothing are characterized by their consistently good shape retention.
- the desired curvature or silhouette can be easily obtained by using the process described above with a finishing press. With the proposed interlining Equipped garments can therefore be worn much longer without affecting their shape retention than clothing that is usually fitted.
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- Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
- Textile Engineering (AREA)
- Details Of Garments (AREA)
- Nonwoven Fabrics (AREA)
- Manufacturing Of Multi-Layer Textile Fabrics (AREA)
Description
Die Erfindung betrifft einen versteifend wirkenden Einlagestoff für Kleidungsstücke, bestehend aus einem Vliesstoff mit einem Gehalt von wenigstens 40 Gew.-%, bezogen auf den Faseranteil, thermisch erweichbarer Fasern sowie aus einer Oberflächenbeschichtung aus einer thermisch erweichbaren Haftmasse.The invention relates to a reinforcing interlining for garments, consisting of a nonwoven fabric with a content of at least 40% by weight, based on the fiber content, of thermally softenable fibers and of a surface coating made of a thermally softenable adhesive.
Einlagestoffe der vorstehend angegebenen Art werden durch einen Verbügelungsvorgang auf die Innenseite des Oberstoffes von Kleidungsstücken aufgeklebt, um Aussehen, Sitz und Faltenwurf in ansprechender Weise zu verbessern.Interlinings of the type specified above are glued to the inside of the outer fabric of clothing by an ironing process in order to improve the appearance, fit and drape in an appealing manner.
Die eingangs angesprochene Ausführung ist aus GB-PS Nr. 1415538 bekannt. Sie besteht aus einem Vliesstoff aus Polyamidfasern, der durch ein vulkanisiertes Bindemittel in sich verfestigt ist und der eine Haftmassenbeschichtung aus Polyäthylen aufweist. Die Erweichungstemperatur der Polyamidfasern liegt über derjenigen der Haftmassenbeschichtung, und die zum Verbügeln mit einem Oberstoff erforderliche Erwärmung kann deshalb bei Temperaturen vorgenommen werden, die nachteilige Auswirkungen auf die Formstabilität des Vliesstoffes mis grosser Sicherheit ausschliessen. Dabei ergibt sich allerdings die Schwierigkeit, dass das erhaltene Mehrschichtgebilde im Anschluss an die Kaschierung nicht mehrtiefgezogen werden kann, ohne die Festigkeit der Verbindung zwischen dem Einlagestoff und dem Oberstoff in starkem Masse zu gefährden.The design mentioned at the outset is known from GB-PS No. 1415538. It consists of a nonwoven made of polyamide fibers, which is hardened by a vulcanized binder and which has an adhesive coating made of polyethylene. The softening temperature of the polyamide fibers is higher than that of the adhesive coating, and the heating required for ironing with an outer fabric can therefore be carried out at temperatures which exclude adverse effects on the dimensional stability of the nonwoven fabric with great certainty. However, there arises the difficulty that the multilayer structure obtained can no longer be deep-drawn after the lamination without jeopardizing the strength of the connection between the interlining material and the outer material to a great extent.
Es wurde zwar schon vorgeschlagen, einen solchen, ebenflächig hergestellten Einlagestoff zusammen mit dem Oberstoff in eine Formpresse einzulegen und bei einer der Erweichungstemperatur der Haftmasse entsprechenden Temperatur schüsselnd zu verformen und zu verbinden. Die Verformung des Einlagestoffes gelingt bei einer solchen Vorgehensweise jedoch nur in einem unvollständigen Masse, und dieser hat die Neigung, im Laufe der Zeit seine ursprüngliche, ebene Gestaltwieder anzunehmen. Schlechte Gebrauchseigenschaften eines so erzeugten Kleidungsstückes sind die Folge.It has already been proposed to insert such an interlayer fabric produced with the same surface, together with the outer fabric, in a molding press and to key-shape and bond it at a temperature corresponding to the softening temperature of the adhesive. With such a procedure, however, the interlining material is only deformed to an incomplete extent, and this tends to return to its original, flat shape over time. This results in poor usage properties of a garment produced in this way.
Der Erfindung liegt die Aufgabe zugrunde, einen durch Anwendung von Druck und Wärme mit einem Oberstoff verbindbaren Einlagestoff zu zeigen, der mit üblichen Mitteln aufkaschiert und gleichzeitig oder anschliessend unter Ausbildung schüsselartiger Einwölbungen bleibend tiefgezogen werden kann.The invention has for its object to show an insert material that can be connected to an outer fabric by applying pressure and heat, which can be laminated on by conventional means and simultaneously or subsequently deep-drawn with the formation of bowl-like convexities.
Diese Aufgabe wird erfindungsgemäss bei einem Einlagestoff der eingangs genannten Art dadurch aelöst. dass die thermisch erweichbaren Fasern eine Erweichungstemperatur haben, die niedriger ist als die Erweichungstemperatur der Haftmasse sowie einen Schrumpfungskoeffizienten bei Erweichungstemperatur, der weniger als 3% beträgt. Das Versteifungsmaterial ist bevorzugt ein Vliesstoff mit isotropen Festigkeitseigenschaften und richtungsneutraler Formbarkeit. Wölbungen lassen sich in diesem Falle beliebig anbringen, was unter modischen Gesichtspunkten von grossem Vorteil ist.This object is achieved according to the invention in the case of an interlining material of the type mentioned at the outset. that the thermally softenable fibers have a softening temperature which is lower than the softening temperature of the adhesive and a shrinkage coefficient at softening temperature which is less than 3%. The stiffening material is preferably a nonwoven fabric with isotropic strength properties and directionally neutral formability. In this case, bulges can be attached as desired, which is a great advantage from a fashion point of view.
Vliesstoffe, bei denen die Fasern bevorzugt in einer Richtung orientiert sind, haben demgegenüber ein weniger neutrales Umformungsverhalten, jedoch eine grössere Steifkraft in Richtung der Fasern. Das bevorzugte Anwendungsgebiet derartiger Vliesstoffe sind deshalb die Bereiche, in denen eine gerichtete Umformung vorgenommen wird, wie beispielsweise der Bereich von Kragen und Revers.Nonwovens in which the fibers are preferably oriented in one direction, on the other hand, have a less neutral forming behavior, but a greater stiffness in the direction of the fibers. The preferred field of use of such nonwovens is therefore the areas in which directional shaping is carried out, such as the area of the collar and lapel.
Das vorgeschlagene Flächengebilde kann Fasern aller einschlägig bekannten Arten enthalten, sofern gewährleistet ist, dass wenigstens 40 Gew.-% der Fasern hitzeerweichende Fasern sind, die eine Erweichungstemperatur unterhalb der Erweichungstemperatur der Haftmasse haben. Ein Gehalt von weniger als 40 Gew.-% der genannten Fasern kann beim Tiefziehen zum Auftreten von Inhomogenitäten in der Faserstruktur führen und ist aus diesem Grunde weniger empfehlenswert. Dem Verhältnis sind nach oben vergleichsweise keine Grenzen gesetzt, und es bestehen keine Bedenken, gegebenenfalls auch einen Einlagestoff zu verwenden, der zu 100% aus entsprechenden, hitzeerweichbaren Fasern bestehen. Die Fasern werden bevorzugt auf trockenem Wege vereint, beispielsweise unter Verwendung einer Krempelanlage oder einer Luftlegeeinrichtung. Sie können auf mechanischem Wege verbunden sein, beispielsweise durch eine Vernadelung sowie allein oder gegebenenfalls zusätzlich auf adhäsivem Wege. Auf die Kreuzungspunkte der Fasern konzentrierte, mechanisch vernetzte Bindemittel werden bevorzugt. Neben Vliesstoffen können selbstverständlich als Einlagestoffe auch Gewebe zur Anwendung kommen.The proposed fabric can contain fibers of all known types, provided that it is ensured that at least 40% by weight of the fibers are heat-softening fibers which have a softening temperature below the softening temperature of the adhesive. A content of less than 40% by weight of the fibers mentioned can lead to inhomogeneities in the fiber structure during deep drawing and is therefore less recommendable. There are comparatively no upper limits to the ratio, and there are no concerns about possibly also using an interlining material that consists of 100% heat-softenable fibers. The fibers are preferably combined in a dry way, for example using a carding machine or an air laying device. They can be connected mechanically, for example by needling, and alone or, if necessary, additionally by an adhesive route. Mechanically crosslinked binders concentrated at the crossing points of the fibers are preferred. In addition to nonwovens, fabrics can of course also be used as interlinings.
Die Differenz zwischen der Erweichungstemperaturder Haftmasse und der Erweichungstemperatur der Fasern beträgt vorzugsweise 20-60°C. Innerhalb des genannten Bereiches lässt sich die Kaschierung vorteilhaft mit dem Tiefziehen vereinen.The difference between the softening temperature of the adhesive and the softening temperature of the fibers is preferably 20-60 ° C. The lamination can advantageously be combined with deep drawing within the stated range.
In der nachfolgenden Tabelle sind einige vorteilhafte Zusammenstellungen gut geeigneter, hitzeerweichbarer Fasern und Haftmassen dargestellt:
Für Acrylnitrilfasern als thermisch erweichbare Fasern enthaltende Flächengebilde kommt bevorzugt Polyamid als Haftmasse zur Anwendung, und zwar in einem Verhältnis von 40 Gew.-% oder mehr, weil Acrylnitrilfasern eine Erweichungstemperatur von 110° Coder weniger unter der Einwirkung von Hitze und Wasser haben und eine Einlage, die diese im Verhältnis von 40 Gew.-% oder mehr enthält, mit einer Finishpresse geformt werden kann, wie in Schneidereien und Wäschereien gebräuchlich.For fabrics containing acrylonitrile fibers as thermally softenable fibers, polyamide is preferably used as an adhesive in a ratio of 40% by weight or more because acrylonitrile fibers have a softening temperature of 110 ° C or less under the influence of heat and water and an interlining which contains it in the ratio of 40% by weight or more, can be shaped with a finishing press, as is customary in tailoring and laundry.
Die genannte Erweichungstemperatur der hitzeerweichbaren Fasern ist die Temperatur, bei welcher die hitzeerweichenden Fasern zu erweichen beginnen, unter Einwirkung von trockener oder feuchter Hitze.The stated softening temperature of the heat softenable fibers is the temperature at which the heat softening fibers begin to soften under the influence of dry or moist heat.
Die Erweichungstemperatur der Haftmasse ist die Temperatur, bei welcher die Viskosität der Harze so weit vermindert ist, dass diese auf die rechte Seite des Oberstoffes durchzuschlagen beginnen.The softening temperature of the adhesive is the temperature at which the viscosity of the resins is reduced to such an extent that they begin to hit the right side of the outer fabric.
Das textile Flächengebilde darf neben den hitzeerweichbaren Fasern, die bei ihrer Erweichungstemperatur einen Schrumpfungskoeffizienten von weniger als 3% haben, keinerlei andere Fasern enthalten, die bei dieser Temperatur einen grösseren Schrumpfungskoeffizienten aufweisen. Hierdurch wird verhindert, dass nach der Kaschierung und dem Tiefziehen blasenartige Ablösungserscheinungen zwischen dem Flächengebilde und dem Oberstoff auftreten. Ein entsprechender nachteiliger Effekt tritt natürlich auch dann auf, wenn die hitzeerweichbaren Fasern selbst bei ihrer Erweichungstemperatur einen grösseren Schrumpfungskoeffizienten haben.In addition to the heat-softenable fibers, which have a shrinkage coefficient of less than 3% at their softening temperature, the textile fabric must not contain any other fibers which have a greater shrinkage coefficient at this temperature. This prevents bubble-like detachment phenomena from occurring between the sheet and the outer fabric after lamination and deep-drawing. A corresponding disadvantageous effect naturally also occurs when the heat-softenable fibers have a larger shrinkage coefficient even at their softening temperature.
Als hitzeerweichbare Fasern kommen bevorzugt Acrylnitrilfasern zurAnwendung, weil diese bei ihrer Erweichungstemperatur nur einen kaum merklichen Schrumpf aufweisen. Sind andere Fasern vorhanden, so kann deren Schrumpfungsverhalten bei der angesprochenen Erweichungstemperatur gegebenenfalls herstellungsbedingt oder durch eine gesonderte Hitzebehandlung im erforderlichen Masse vermindert werden. Eine typische Faser, die einer derartigen Verschrumpfung unterzogen werden muss, ist beispielsweise die im übrigen gut geeignete Vinylidenchloridfaser.Acrylonitrile fibers are preferably used as heat-softenable fibers, because at their softening temperature they show only a hardly noticeable shrinkage. If other fibers are present, their shrinkage behavior at the softening temperature mentioned can, if necessary, be caused by production or reduced to the required extent by a separate heat treatment. A typical fiber that has to be subjected to such shrinkage is, for example, the vinylidene chloride fiber, which is otherwise very suitable.
Obwohl es schwierig ist, beide Forderungen zu vereinen, nämlich den Wunsch nach einer guten Haftung mit dem Wunsch nach der Formhaltung der verwendeten Fasern im Anschluss an das Tiefziehen, weil nur ein geringer Unterschied zwischen der Erweichungstemperatur der Fasern und der Erweichungstemperatur der Haftmasse besteht, können in diesem Falle ausgezeichnete Ergebnisse erzielt werden, wenn die Erweichungstemperaturen sorgfältig kontrolliert werden. Als hitzeerweichbare Fasern können Reyonfasern, Polyesterfasern, Polyamidfasern u. dgl. verwendet werden.Although it is difficult to combine both requirements, namely the desire for good adhesion with the desire for the shape of the fibers used after deep-drawing, because there is only a slight difference between the softening temperature of the fibers and the softening temperature of the adhesive in this case excellent results can be achieved if the softening temperatures are carefully controlled. As heat-softenable fibers, rayon fibers, polyester fibers, polyamide fibers and the like. Like. Be used.
Die Differenz zwischen der Erweichungstemperatur der Haftmasse und der Erweichungstemperatur der Fasern soll einen Bereich von 20 bis 60° C nicht überschreiten. Bei einem geringeren Wert besteht die Gefahr einer Delaminierung des Versteifungs- und des Oberstoffes beim Tiefziehen unter Anwendung von Druck und Wärme. Durch höhere Werte lassen sich vergleichsweise beim Kaschieren grössere Arbeitsgeschwindigkeiten erzielen, die zum Kaschieren der beiden Flächengebilde erforderliche Erwärmung der Haftmasse kann aber zugleich eine Schädigung der thermisch erweichbaren Fasern der Versteifungseinlage zur Folge haben, was nicht erwünscht ist. Bereits im Grenzbereich ist es deshalb nötig, die Zuführung der Wärme sorgfältig zu kontrollieren.The difference between the softening temperature of the adhesive and the softening temperature of the fibers should not exceed a range of 20 to 60 ° C. If the value is lower, there is a risk of delamination of the stiffening and the outer fabric during deep drawing using pressure and heat. With higher values, comparatively high working speeds can be achieved during lamination, but the heating of the adhesive required for lamination of the two flat structures can at the same time result in damage to the thermally softenable fibers of the stiffening insert, which is not desirable. It is therefore necessary to carefully control the supply of heat even at the limit.
Die Herstellung eines Kleidungsstückes unter Verwendung des vorgeschlagenen Einlagestoffes kann bevorzugt wie folgt vorgenommen werden.The production of a garment using the proposed interlining can preferably be carried out as follows.
In einem ersten Schritt wird auf einem ebenen Träger der Oberstoff mit einem Einlagestoff der erfindungsgemäss vorgeschlagenen Art durch Verbügeln verbunden. Die Wärmezufuhr wird dabei bevorzugt durch den Oberstoff hindurch vorgenommen, um eine Zerstörung der hitzeerweichbaren Fasern des Einlagestoffes zu vermeiden. Weder der Einlage- noch der Oberstoff wird bei diesem Vorgang einer Dehnbeanspruchung unterworfen, und es gelingt deshalb ohne Schwierigkeiten, eine Verbindung von gleichmässiger Festigkeit in allen Teilbereichen zu erzielen.In a first step, the outer fabric is connected to an interlining of the type proposed according to the invention by ironing on a flat carrier. The heat is preferably applied through the outer fabric in order to avoid destroying the heat-softenable fibers of the interlining. Neither the interlining nor the outer fabric is subjected to stretching during this process, and it is therefore easy to achieve a bond of uniform strength in all areas.
Bedingt durch den sehr niedrigen Schrumpfungskoeffizienten von maximum 3% treten nennenswerte Spannungen nach dem Abkühlen nicht auf, was sich positiv auf die Formhaltigkeit und die Stabilität der Verbindung zwischen dem Oberstoff und dem Einlagestoff auswirkt.Due to the very low shrinkage coefficient of maximum 3%, no significant stresses occur after cooling, which has a positive effect on the shape retention and the stability of the connection between the outer fabric and the interlining.
Das so erhaltene Zweischichtgebilde wird anschliessend in eine Finishpresse eingelegt und unter Einwirkung von Druck und Wärme tiefgezogen. Die dabei angewendeten Temperaturen liegen wesentlich unterhalb der Erweichungstemperatur der Haftmasse, und es besteht deshalb nicht die Gefahr einer Delaminierung.The two-layer structure obtained in this way is then placed in a finishing press and deep-drawn under the action of pressure and heat. The temperatures used are substantially below the softening temperature of the adhesive and there is therefore no risk of delamination.
Die notwendige Temperaturerhöhung des Zweischichtgebildes lässt sich durch eine Behandlung mit Wasserdampf beschleunigen. Finishpressen sind gewöhnlich mit einer entsprechenden Hilfseinrichtung ausgerüstet.The necessary increase in temperature of the two-layer structure can be accelerated by treatment with steam. Finish presses are usually equipped with an appropriate auxiliary device.
Das umgeformte Mehrschichtgebilde wird anschliessend aus dem Pressenwerkzeug entnommen und abgekühlt. Es zeichnet sich durch eine bleibende Formhaltigkeit der erzeugten Wölbung aus. Das Formteil kann unmittelbar verarbeitet werden. Selbstverständlich ist es ebenfalls möglich, mehrere Mehrschichtgebilde vor dem Tiefziehen zu vernähen und erst anschliessend gemeinsam in der beschriebenen Weise umzuformen, beispielsweise um Nahtstellen überbrückende Wölbungen einzubringen.The formed multilayer structure is then removed from the press tool and cooled. It is characterized by the shape of the curvature being retained. The molded part can be processed immediately. Of course, it is also possible to sew several multilayer structures before deep drawing and only then to shape them together in the manner described, for example in order to introduce bulges bridging seams.
Der vorgeschlagene Einlagestoff neigt nicht dazu, im Anschluss an das Tiefziehen in seine ursprünglich ebene Gestalt zurückzukehren. Entsprechend ausgestattete Kleidungsstücke zeichnen sich durch eine bleibend gute Formhaltigkeit aus. Darüber hinaus kann die gewünschte Wölbung oder Silhouette leicht zurückerhalten werden, indem man das oben beschriebene Verfahren mit einer Finishpresse anwendet, wenn die Kleidungsstücke tatsächlich einmal die Form verloren haben. Mit dem vorgeschlagenen Einlagestoff ausgestattete Kleidungsstücke können deshalb wesentlich länger ohne Beeinträchtigung ihrer Formhaltigkeit getragen werden als in üblicher Weise ausgestattete Kleidung.The proposed interlining does not tend to return to its original flat shape after deep drawing. Appropriately equipped items of clothing are characterized by their consistently good shape retention. In addition, if the garments have actually lost their shape, the desired curvature or silhouette can be easily obtained by using the process described above with a finishing press. With the proposed interlining Equipped garments can therefore be worn much longer without affecting their shape retention than clothing that is usually fitted.
Claims (2)
Applications Claiming Priority (2)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| JP8221481A JPS57199874A (en) | 1981-05-28 | 1981-05-28 | Adhesive core fabric |
| JP82214/81 | 1981-05-28 |
Publications (2)
| Publication Number | Publication Date |
|---|---|
| EP0065781A1 EP0065781A1 (en) | 1982-12-01 |
| EP0065781B1 true EP0065781B1 (en) | 1984-09-12 |
Family
ID=13768162
Family Applications (1)
| Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
|---|---|---|---|
| EP19820104544 Expired EP0065781B1 (en) | 1981-05-28 | 1982-05-25 | Reinforcing lining for garments |
Country Status (5)
| Country | Link |
|---|---|
| US (1) | US4548860A (en) |
| EP (1) | EP0065781B1 (en) |
| JP (1) | JPS57199874A (en) |
| DE (1) | DE3260717D1 (en) |
| ZA (1) | ZA823290B (en) |
Families Citing this family (4)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| DE19717574C2 (en) * | 1996-04-26 | 2003-08-07 | Nissan Motor | Polyolefin-based resin composition and its use for producing a plastic molded body, in particular for motor vehicles |
| IT1319657B1 (en) * | 2000-11-16 | 2003-10-23 | Montefibre Spa | PROCEDURE FOR THE PREPARATION OF OUTDOOR ACRYLIC ARTICLES. |
| JP3434810B1 (en) * | 2002-02-15 | 2003-08-11 | 辰郎 中島 | How to sew sewing products |
| CN102943401B (en) * | 2012-11-14 | 2014-06-18 | 余永生 | Production process of warp knitted weft insertion hot fusible powder point interlining cloth |
Family Cites Families (5)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| US2982682A (en) * | 1956-08-13 | 1961-05-02 | Rohm & Haas | Non-woven bonded fibrous products and methods for their production |
| GB1241382A (en) * | 1968-01-13 | 1971-08-04 | Toray Industries | Method for producing composite sheet substance composed of fibres and elastic materials |
| CH582729A5 (en) * | 1974-05-21 | 1976-12-15 | Inventa Ag | |
| DE2550253C2 (en) * | 1975-11-08 | 1985-05-09 | Fa. Carl Freudenberg, 6940 Weinheim | Shaping insert combination for items of clothing |
| DE2745060C2 (en) * | 1977-10-06 | 1985-04-11 | Dynic Corp., Kyoto | Method and apparatus for producing an ironable interlining material |
-
1981
- 1981-05-28 JP JP8221481A patent/JPS57199874A/en active Granted
-
1982
- 1982-05-12 ZA ZA823290A patent/ZA823290B/en unknown
- 1982-05-18 US US06/379,297 patent/US4548860A/en not_active Expired - Fee Related
- 1982-05-25 EP EP19820104544 patent/EP0065781B1/en not_active Expired
- 1982-05-25 DE DE8282104544T patent/DE3260717D1/en not_active Expired
Also Published As
| Publication number | Publication date |
|---|---|
| US4548860A (en) | 1985-10-22 |
| ZA823290B (en) | 1983-03-30 |
| DE3260717D1 (en) | 1984-10-18 |
| JPS6130074B2 (en) | 1986-07-10 |
| EP0065781A1 (en) | 1982-12-01 |
| JPS57199874A (en) | 1982-12-07 |
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