CN1675320A - 颜料、有色化妆品及所述颜料的制备方法 - Google Patents

颜料、有色化妆品及所述颜料的制备方法 Download PDF

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CN1675320A
CN1675320A CNA038197553A CN03819755A CN1675320A CN 1675320 A CN1675320 A CN 1675320A CN A038197553 A CNA038197553 A CN A038197553A CN 03819755 A CN03819755 A CN 03819755A CN 1675320 A CN1675320 A CN 1675320A
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pigment
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CN100369978C (zh
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G·考普
T·舒斯特
H-J·克雷米茨
G·佐默
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Abstract

一种用于例如唇膏、指甲油、眼影、染发剂、液体睫毛膏、粉体、眼线笔、胭脂、护肤品/护发品、香水、化妆水、洗剂等化妆品的金属颜料，其特征在于金属基质具有通过溶胶－凝胶法产生的基质封闭层，其可提供对汗液和唾液的阻隔效果，并可防止皮肤与金属基质之间的直接接触。

Description

颜料、有色化妆品及所述颜料的制备方法
本发明涉及用于化妆品的颜料以及含有所述颜料的化妆品，所述化妆品例如是唇膏、指甲油、眼影、染发剂、液体睫毛膏、液体自动美黑品等。
所讨论类型的化妆品(例如散粉或粉饼、眼影、唇膏、眼线笔、指甲油、胭脂、睫毛膏等)由载体物质或基础配方以及多种类型的赋予色彩和赋予效果的物质组成，目的是在皮肤、唇部或毛发上获得一定的色彩效果。
这些赋予色彩和赋予效果的物质可以是着色剂、漆包有机着色剂、无机颜料或有机颜料或者效果颜料，其中特别对于效果颜料而言，特别强调的是希望根据对所施涂制剂的观察角度而获得不同的色彩效果或亮度效果。为实现此目的，在化妆品领域中通常已经特别使用的是珠光颜料。
珠光颜料是基于片状云母颗粒作为基质，其涂有金属氧化物，主要是二氧化钛或氧化铁。但是，基于二氧化钛的这种类型的颜料由于其组成因而相对透明，并且通常仅在所谓的“掠射角”下表现出色彩效果，而基于氧化铁的颜料可提供更大的覆盖率，但是依赖于角度的色彩效果或亮度效果会被推入背景中。这些颜料的优点在于其化学稳定性和热稳定性高以及它们的皮肤耐受性，其中所述稳定性可以实质上避免例如对粘合剂的负面影响。
就金属效果颜料已经用于化妆目的至今而言，它们确实具有以下优点：掩饰性、色彩强烈以及高度鲜明，但是它们存在缺点，特别是当考虑到源自金属组分的金属离子(例如铜或锌离子)会释放到载体介质中并造成不期望的影响(例如粘合剂凝胶化和色彩改变)时，它们尤其不能满足健康要求。在施用条件下，可能会发生与汗液或唾液接触，这意味着与酸性或碱性介质接触，这同样会导致离子释放的增加，从而不仅影响载体物质，而且可能会直接导致与健康有关的损害作用，例如皮肤刺激。
从DE 44 37 753 A1已知一种同样可用于化妆目的的有光泽的颜料，其至少由5层组成，并且因此制备费用昂贵。
DE 198 36 810 A1描述了在含水介质中涂覆的金属颜料，其具有下文将描述的缺点。
DE 101 14 445 A1和DE 101 14 446 A1描述了未被批准用于化妆品的铁颜料。这同样适用于根据EP 0 673 980 A2的铁颜料，其已在氧气氛围中于升高的温度下处理过。
US 6,398,861 B1描述了金属颜料组合物，而不是金属颜料本身。其提及的是一种含水体系，并提到了使用表面活性剂，这完全不适合下文将要描述的本发明方案。
基于此，本发明基于进一步开发出上述类型的颜料的目的，使得所述颜料与化妆品领域常用的颜料相比可以更好地满足卫生和健康要求。
根据本发明，以如下方式实现了该目的：金属基质包含基质封闭层，其通过在溶胶-凝胶法中产生，引入对汗液和唾液的阻隔效果，并可防止皮肤与金属基质之间的直接接触。
根据本发明提供的溶胶-凝胶法可以显著地影响基质封闭层的性质。在这种溶胶-凝胶法中，使用合适的催化剂，在有机溶液或悬浮液中从合适的单体金属氧化物前体(例如烷氧基硅烷)围绕金属基质形成阻隔层。与从水溶液中涂布的方法(例如使用水玻璃)相比，该方法的优点是不需要附加的预处理使涂有辅助研磨剂的基础颜料活化或脱脂，并且所得的层不会被其他离子例如氯离子或硫酸根污染。此外，由于以这种方式获得的层是从单体前体得到的，因此其具有这样的优点：该层特别均匀、致密且质量高，并且是光学上觉察不到的层，此外当它们特别地与化妆品应用相关时，从健康和卫生的角度看，所述层是无害的。
与未涂布的金属颜料或在含水体系中涂布的颜料相比，通过这种方式已被改进的金属颜料不会表现出任何或仅仅是显著降低的聚集倾向或絮凝倾向。光学性质不会受到周围层的影响或者仅仅是影响程度很小。这同样适用于触觉性质。
所述层优选与化妆品制剂的粘合剂相容。
所述层一方面可以包含无机材料或者由无机材料组成，该材料优选选自氧化硅、氧化钛、氧化铝、氧化铁、氧化铈(ceroxide)和氧化铬及其混合物。
另一方面，或者作为选择地，所述层可以包含有机材料或由有机材料组成，该材料适宜选自聚丙烯酸酯、硅氧烷、聚烯烃、聚苯乙烯、聚酯、纤维素酯、聚酰胺、磷光体有机物质、有机改性的硅烷、有机改性的钛酸盐、有机改性的锆酸盐及其混合物。
所述层的厚度可以为5～500nm，特别是20～50nm。
所述金属核心优选由铜、锌、铝、钛、银或金或所述元素的合金组成。
一个优选的实施方案是所述金属核心由铝组成，100％的颗粒尺寸＜75μm，95％的颗粒尺寸＜45μm，并且汞含量≤1ppm，砷含量≤3ppm，铅含量≤20ppm，铝含量≥99％。
可以规定所述金属核心由铝组成，汞含量≤1ppm，砷含量≤3ppm，铅含量≤10ppm，镉含量≤1ppm，重金属(如铅)含量≤40ppm，在105℃下干燥损失≤0.5％，并且铝含量≥99％。
在本发明的内容中，青铜颜料的特征可以是金属核心包含的铜含量为70～95％，锌含量≤30％，铝和锡含量分别≤0.5％，并且镉含量≤15ppm，铅含量≤20ppm，砷含量≤3ppm，汞含量≤1ppm，95％的颗粒尺寸＜45μm。
对于铜颜料而言，优选规定金属核心的铜含量≥95％，镉含量≤15ppm，铅含量≤20ppm，砷含量≤3ppm，汞含量≤1ppm，95％的颗粒尺寸＜45μm。
该组合物有利的是使得金属核心由银组成，汞含量≤1ppm，砷含量≤5ppm，铅含量≤10ppm，银含量≥99.9％，或者金属核心由银组成，并且银含量≥99.5％，或者金属核心由金组成，银含量≤7％，铜含量≤4％，金含量≥90％。
有利地提供所述层使得涂层与金属核心的重量比为1～0.001。
另外，本发明颜料的特征可以是在借助植物基润滑剂特别是植物基油酸或硬脂酸的情况下下研磨金属核心，并且优选成型为片状，直径为1～100μm，平均厚度为0.05～2μm。
另外，本发明涉及颜料的制备方法，其特征在于在溶胶-凝胶法中，在醇水溶液中通过水解和气相沉积有机金属氧化物前体并在可选择地使用合适的催化剂的条件下，涂布金属基质颗粒而无需进行附加的预处理。
本发明还涉及含有以上特征的颜料的化妆品。
下面将根据两个制备本发明的金属效果颜料的实施例对本发明作更详细的描述。
实施例1
在1升的配有回流冷凝器和搅拌装置的圆底烧瓶中，将100g已用植物基硬脂酸研磨而成的金色青铜颜料(平均粒径大约为17μm)分散在500ml乙醇中，将该混合物加热到50℃，并加入4.5g的15％DMEA水溶液。在8小时内，投入52g乙醇中的17.3g四乙氧基硅烷的溶液。完成加入后，缓慢冷却该混合物，并在室温下再搅拌8小时。
通过过滤分离涂有SiO2的金色青铜颜料，用200ml乙醇进行洗涤，并在真空干燥室中于80℃下进行干燥。
所得的产物含有4.7％的SiO2，并且在施用于硝化纤维素油中后呈现出可与所用起始原料相当的高金属光泽的光学性质。
实施例2
在1升的配有回流冷凝器和搅拌装置的圆底烧瓶中，将75g已用植物基油酸研磨而成的铝颜料(平均粒径大约为23μm)分散在600ml丁基乙二醇中，将该混合物加热至95℃，并加入50g的5％DMEA水溶液。在12小时内，投入24.7g丁基乙二醇中的24.7g四乙氧基硅烷的溶液。完成加入后，缓慢冷却该混合物，并在室温下再搅拌8小时。
通过过滤分离涂有SiO2的该铝颜料，分别用200ml乙醇洗涤2次，并在真空干燥室中于100℃下进行干燥。
所得的产物含有8.8％的SiO2，并且在施用于硝化纤维素油中后呈现出可与所用起始原料相当的高金属光泽的光学性质。
为了更好地说明本发明，下面将描述两个含有本发明颜料的化妆品的实施方案。
实施例1：
眼霜修饰品
            制品描述                       Wt％
            肉豆蔻酸异丙酯                 23
            硬脂酸镁                       2
            矿物油                         25
            蜂蜡                           40
            涂有SiO2的金色青铜颜料
            (平均粒径35μm)                10
将所述脂肪物质加热到约110℃。随后将该熔融的物质冷却下来。将颜料加入2g该熔融的物质中。随后进行重新的小心熔化和搅拌。将以这种方式得到的不会过热的物质灌注成型。
实施例2：
胭脂粉
            制品描述                      Wt％
            滑石                          33
            马铃薯淀粉                    20
            硬脂酸镁                      8
            碳酸钙                        4
            涂有SiO2的金色青铜颜料
            (平均粒径17μm)               19
            涂有SiO2的铜颜料
            (平均粒径17μm)               16
将这些组分混合并均化。在40巴下压缩该混合物并成型。

Claims (20)

1.一种用于例如唇膏、指甲油、眼影、染发剂、液体睫毛膏、粉体、眼线笔、胭脂、护肤品/护发品、香水、化妆水、洗剂等化妆品的金属颜料，其特征在于金属基质具有通过溶胶-凝胶法产生的基质封闭层，其可提供对汗液和唾液的阻隔效果，并可防止皮肤与金属基质之间的直接接触。
2.根据权利要求1所述的金属颜料，其特征在于所述层可与所述化妆品的粘合剂或载体相容。
3.根据权利要求1或2所述的金属颜料，其特征在于所述层包含无机材料或由无机材料组成。
4.根据权利要求1-3中任一项所述的颜料，其特征在于所述无机材料选自氧化硅、氧化钛、氧化铝、氧化铁、氧化铈和氧化铬或相应的水合物及其混合物。
5.根据权利要求1-3中任一项所述的颜料，其特征在于所述层包含有机材料或由有机材料组成。
6.根据权利要求1-3或5中任一项所述的颜料，其特征在于所述有机材料包含聚丙烯酸酯、硅氧烷、聚烯烃、聚苯乙烯、聚酯、纤维素酯、聚酰胺、磷光体有机物质、有机改性的硅烷、有机改性的钛酸盐、有机改性的锆酸盐及其混合物。
7.根据权利要求1-6中任一项所述的颜料，其特征在于所述封闭层厚度为5～500nm。
8.根据权利要求1-7中任一项所述的颜料，其特征在于金属核心由铜、锌、铝、钛、银或金或所述元素的合金组成。
9.根据权利要求1-8中任一项所述的含铝颜料，其特征在于所述金属核心由铝组成，100％的颗粒尺寸＜75μm，95％的颗粒尺寸＜45μm，汞含量≤1ppm，砷含量≤3ppm，铅含量≤20ppm，Al含量≥99％。
10.根据权利要求1-8中任一项所述的颜料，其特征在于所述金属核心由铝组成，汞含量≤1ppm，砷含量≤3ppm，铅含量≤10ppm，镉含量≤1ppm，重金属(如铅)含量≤40ppm，105℃下干燥损失≤0.5％，Al含量≥99％。
11.根据权利要求1-8中任一项所述的青铜颜料形式的颜料，其特征在于所述金属核心包含70～95％的铜，锌含量≤ 30％，铝和锡的含量分别≤0.5％，镉含量≤15ppm，铅含量≤20ppm，砷含量≤3ppm，汞含量≤1ppm，95％的颗粒尺寸＜45μm。
12.根据权利要求1-8中任一项所述的铜颜料形式的颜料，其特征在于所述金属核心的铜含量≥95％，镉含量≤15ppm，铅含量≤20ppm，砷含量≤3ppm，汞含量≤1ppm，95％的颗粒尺寸＜45μm。
13.根据权利要求1-8中任一项所述的颜料，其特征在于所述金属核心由银组成，汞含量≤1ppm，砷含量≤5ppm，铅含量≤10ppm，银含量≥99.9％。
14.根据权利要求1-8中任一项所述的颜料，其特征在于所述金属核心由银组成，银含量≥99.5％。
15.根据权利要求1-8中任一项所述的颜料，其特征在于所述金属核心由金组成，银含量≤7％，铜含量≤4％，金含量≥90％。
16.根据权利要求1-5中任一项所述的颜料，其特征在于所述颜料具有涂层，其中涂层与金属核心的重量比为1～0.001。
17.根据权利要求1-16中任一项所述的颜料，其特征在于所述金属基质是通过用源于植物的润滑剂研磨产生的金属颜料。
18.根据权利要求1-17中任一项所述的颜料，其特征在于所述金属核心成型为片状，其直径为1～100μm，平均厚度为0.05～2μm。
19.一种制备根据上述权利要求中任一项所述的颜料的方法，其特征在于在溶胶-凝胶法中，在醇水溶液中通过水解和气相沉积有机金属氧化物前体并在可选择地使用合适的催化剂的条件下，涂布金属基质颗粒而无需进行附加的预处理。
20.一种包含根据权利要求1-8中任一项所述的颜料的化妆品。
CNB038197553A 2002-08-21 2003-08-07 颜料、有色化妆品及所述颜料的制备方法 Expired - Lifetime CN100369978C (zh)

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