CN114931543B - Repairing and anti-aging essence with high content of blue copper peptide and preparation method thereof - Google Patents
Repairing and anti-aging essence with high content of blue copper peptide and preparation method thereof Download PDFInfo
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- CN114931543B CN114931543B CN202210659831.4A CN202210659831A CN114931543B CN 114931543 B CN114931543 B CN 114931543B CN 202210659831 A CN202210659831 A CN 202210659831A CN 114931543 B CN114931543 B CN 114931543B
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Abstract
The invention discloses a repairing and anti-aging essence with high content of blue copper peptide and a preparation method thereof, wherein the essence comprises the following components: blue copper peptide, humectant, thickener, pH regulator, emulsifier, oil, penetration enhancer, skin conditioner and water; the preparation method comprises the following steps: a. mixing water phase in humectant, thickener, penetration enhancer and skin conditioner with water to obtain a1 product; mixing the emulsifying agent and the grease to obtain a2 product; adding the a2 product into the a1 product to obtain a product A; b. adding the rest thickener to obtain product B; c. adding pH regulator to obtain product C; d. adding the rest penetration enhancer and the skin conditioner of the oil phase to obtain a D product; e. mixing blue copper peptide with water to obtain e1 product; mixing the product D with the product e1 to obtain a product e 2; and e2, removing bubbles, cooling and discharging to obtain a finished essence product. The invention has the characteristics of excellent skin feel, high stability and high efficacy.
Description
Technical Field
The invention relates to a repairing and anti-aging essence, in particular to a repairing and anti-aging essence with high content of blue copper peptide and a preparation method thereof.
Background
Skin aging is mainly manifested by wrinkling, loss of elasticity, dryness, pigmentation, etc. of the skin. The most significant biological features during skin aging are changes in the dermis layer, such as thinning of the dermis layer, gradual decrease in collagen fiber content, elastosis and decrease, loss of elasticity and tension, etc. Furthermore, skin aging generally causes an inflammatory phenomenon, and proinflammatory factors released by inflammatory cells can promote activation of collagenase, resulting in collagen degradation. Except for aging crisis, the factors such as oxidative stress caused by season change, ultraviolet irradiation, air pollution, mental stress and the like can cause the damage of the skin barrier function and the sensitivity of the skin.
Blue copper peptide, the cosmetic raw material INCI named tripeptide-1 copper (CopperTripeptide-1, GHK-Cu), is a class of bioactive peptides naturally occurring in the extracellular matrix and released after injury. Blue copper peptide is a complex formed by copper ions and tripeptide-1, and by regulating the level of copper ions, the blue copper peptide promotes the interaction between cells and extracellular matrixes, and increases the synthesis of important components such as key proteins (such as collagen and elastin) and glycosaminoglycans in skin; can reduce active oxygen induced by lipopolysaccharide, improve SOD activity, and reduce release of proinflammatory factor; it also has effects in balancing skin protease, reducing oxidative damage, maintaining epidermal stem cells, and recovering activity of injured skin cells. The research shows that the high-content blue copper peptide has good repairing and anti-aging effects.
However, once the copper ions in the blue copper peptide are chelated by other components, the expensive blue copper peptide loses most of the activity, and the efficacy is greatly reduced. Therefore, blue copper peptides have poor compatibility and high requirements on the formulation system, for example: chelating agents such as EDTA or octanoyl hydroxamic acid are not suitable for being added into a formula containing the blue copper peptide; the pH of the formulation system is not peracid or overbase; some thickeners which are easy to mix with blue copper peptide and reduce the viscosity of the system are not suitable for use; the functional components added in the formula are also strictly screened. Therefore, the use of blue copper peptides is limited, and products with high content of blue copper peptides are not common in the market. The existing essence products added with blue copper peptide in the market have low addition amount of most blue copper peptide; the formula has simple components, is a transparent oil-free system, has single skin feel and is not moist enough; the compatibility of the active ingredients is weak, and the efficacy is not excellent enough. And the blue copper peptide has a large influence on the stability of the system at a high temperature, and the phenomena of low viscosity and darkening of color are easy to occur, so that the efficacy of the product is difficult to ensure. Therefore, it is difficult to produce a high-content blue copper peptide essence satisfying excellent skin feel, high stability and high efficacy at the same time.
Disclosure of Invention
The invention aims to provide a repairing and anti-aging essence with high content of blue copper peptide and a preparation method thereof. The invention has the characteristics of excellent skin feel, high stability and high efficacy.
The technical scheme of the invention is as follows: a repairing and anti-aging essence with high content of blue copper peptide is characterized in that: comprises the following components in percentage by mass: 0.3 to 2 percent of blue copper peptide, 5 to 10 percent of humectant, 0.25 to 2 percent of thickener, 0.1 to 1 percent of pH regulator, 0.5 to 5 percent of nonionic emulsifier, 3 to 10 percent of grease, 0.5 to 3 percent of penetration enhancer, 15 to 30 percent of skin conditioner and the balance of water.
In the repairing and anti-aging essence with high content of blue copper peptide, the humectant comprises the following components in percentage by mass: 1 to 5 percent of 1, 3-propanediol, 1.5 to 3.5 percent of 1, 2-pentanediol, 1 to 3 percent of 1, 2-hexanediol, 1 to 3 percent of glycerol and 0.1 to 1.0 percent of glyceroglycol.
In the repairing and anti-aging essence with high content of blue copper peptide, the thickener comprises the following components in percentage by mass: 0.1 to 1 percent of acrylamide dimethyl taurate/VP copolymer, 0.1 to 0.5 percent of acrylic acid (ester)/C10-30 alkanol acrylate cross-linked polymer, 0.1 to 0.5 percent of sodium hyaluronate and 0.01 to 0.2 percent of tremella polysaccharide.
In the repairing and anti-aging essence with high content of blue copper peptide, the pH regulator comprises the following components in percentage by mass: arginine 0.1-1%.
In the repairing and anti-aging essence with high content of blue copper peptide, the nonionic emulsifier comprises the following components in percentage by mass: 0.1 to 2.5 percent of C12-20 acid PEG-8 ester and 0.01 to 2.5 percent of squalol.
In the repairing and anti-aging essence containing high-content blue copper peptide, the grease comprises the following components in percentage by mass: 1 to 5 percent of polydimethylsiloxane, 1 to 5 percent of phytosterol/octyl dodecanol lauroyl glutamate, 0.1 to 2 percent of jojoba seed oil and 0.1 to 2 percent of squalane.
In the repairing and anti-aging essence with high content of blue copper peptide, the penetration enhancer comprises the following components in percentage by mass: 0.5 to 2.5 percent of inositol and 0.01 to 0.5 percent of bis-diethoxydiglycol cyclohexane 1, 4-dicarboxylic acid ester.
In the repairing and anti-aging essence with high content of blue copper peptide, the skin conditioner comprises the following components in percentage by mass: 1 to 5 percent of trimethyl pentanediol/adipic acid/glycerin crosslinked polymer, 0.1 to 2 percent of acetyl hexapeptide-80.001 to 0.1 percent of lactobacillus/soybean milk fermentation product filtrate, 0.01 to 2 percent of panthenol, 0.001 to 0.1 percent of palmitoyl tripeptide-50.001, 0.001 to 0.1 percent of tetradecylamino Ding Xianxie amino carbamide trifluoroacetate, 0.001 to 0.1 percent of acetyl dipeptide-1 cetyl ester, 0.1 to 1 percent of tetrahydropyrimidine carboxylic acid, 20.01 to 1 percent of biological gum, 0.01 to 1 percent of pantetheine calcium sulfonate, 0.05 to 0.25 percent of madecassoside and 0.05 to 0.25 percent of acetylated sodium hyaluronate.
The preparation method of the repairing anti-aging essence comprises the following steps:
a. uniformly mixing humectant, sodium hyaluronate in thickener, tremella polysaccharide, inositol in penetration enhancer, panthenol in skin conditioner, tetrahydropyrimidine carboxylic acid and acetylated sodium hyaluronate with water, heating to 70-75deg.C, stirring until dissolution is complete, and maintaining temperature to obtain a1 product; mixing and heating the emulsifier and the grease according to a proportion, stirring until the emulsifier and the grease are completely dissolved, and preserving heat to obtain an a2 product; adding the a2 product into the a1 product, and homogenizing for 3-5 min at the speed of 2500-3500 r/min to obtain a A product;
b. completely soaking acrylic acid (ester)/C10-30 alkanol acrylate crosslinked polymer in the thickener with water, adding the water and the acrylamide dimethyl taurate/VP copolymer in the thickener into the product A, and homogenizing at a speed of 2500-3500 r/min for 2-4 min to obtain a product B;
c. adding the pH regulator into the product B after completely dissolving the pH regulator by water, and stirring the mixture for 2 to 4 minutes at the speed of 2500 to 3500r/min to obtain a product C;
d. cooling the product C to 40-50 ℃, then adding bis-diethoxy diglycol cyclohexane 1, 4-dicarboxylic acid ester in a permeation promoter and trimethyl pentanediol/adipic acid/glycerin cross-linked polymer, acetyl hexapeptide-8, lactobacillus/soybean milk fermentation product filtrate, palmitoyl tripeptide-5, tetradecylamino Ding Xianxie amino carbamide trifluoroacetate, acetyl dipeptide-1 cetyl ester, biological gum-2, pantetheine calcium sulfonate, madecassoside and acetylated sodium hyaluronate in a skin conditioner, and uniformly stirring to obtain a product D;
e. blue copper peptide and water are mixed according to the weight ratio of 1:1, uniformly stirring the mixture in proportion to obtain an e1 product; cooling the D product to 35-45 ℃, then adding the e1 product, preserving heat and uniformly stirring to obtain the e2 product; and then cooling the e2 product to 30-35 ℃ for discharging to obtain the finished essence product.
In the preparation method of the repairing and anti-aging essence, the pH value of the finished product of the essence is 6.2-7.0, and the viscosity of the finished product of the essence is 15000-25000 cP.
Compared with the prior art, the invention has the beneficial effects that:
the invention adopts a plurality of components with different effects, and screens out and combines an emulsifier, a thickener, a pH regulator and a skin conditioner which have good stability with the blue copper peptide in a system through further limiting and content optimization of each component, so that the content stability of the essence after long-term storage is improved; adding four kinds of grease with different structures for compounding, improving the moistening degree of essence and providing soft skin feel; and the penetration enhancer is added to obviously improve the permeability of the essence to the skin surface in a short time, and the effects of resisting aging, repairing and moisturizing are achieved through cooperation of different mechanisms and different dimensions. The stability of the blue copper peptide essence prepared by the invention is superior to that of a commercial blue copper peptide product, and the storage stability of the cosmetic shelf life can reach 3 years through strict stability acceleration experiment tests.
Specifically, from the aspect of stability, the invention selects the nonionic emulsifier which is compounded by 0.1 to 2.5 percent of PEG-8 ester of C12-20 acid and 0.01 to 2.5 percent of scyllnol as the emulsifier of essence, compared with the ionic emulsifier, the ionic emulsifier can effectively avoid chelating copper ions in blue copper peptide, can emulsify various grease by adjusting the HLB value range, can form stable oil-in-water liquid drops with small particle size in an essence system, and improves the content uniformity and the performance stability of the blue copper peptide in the essence;
in terms of skin feel, first, tremella polysaccharide adopted in the thickener belongs to natural colloid of macromolecules, and is thickened by a compound colloid of low-molecular sodium hyaluronate (20-40 wDa), and the natural colloid is ion-resistant natural colloid. The tremella polysaccharide is an acidic heteropolysaccharide, the main chain structure of the tremella polysaccharide is mannans connected by alpha- (1-3) glycosidic bonds, and the branched chain consists of glucuronic acid and xylose; sodium hyaluronate belongs to a natural high molecular polysaccharide polymer, and is a high molecular weight linear mucopolysaccharide polymerized by disaccharide units consisting of glucuronic acid and acetaminosaccharide. The two are compounded for use, so that the essence is ensured to have certain viscosity under the high temperature condition, and smooth and non-sticky skin feel is provided;
secondly, the invention adopts 0.1 to 0.5 percent of acrylic acid (esters) and C10-30 alkanol acrylate crosslinked polymer and 0.1 to 1.0 percent of acrylamide-dimethyl taurate/VP copolymer to compound, and the acrylic acid (esters) and C10-30 alkanol acrylate crosslinked polymer is particularly Ultrez 20Polymer、/> Ultrez 21Polymer、PEMULEN TM One or more of the TR-1 polymers is/are neutralized by using a specific pH regulator arginine, preferably an organic base and acrylic ester are neutralized in a specific proportion, the pH balance of the system is maintained, the viscosity reduction degree of the formula system can be buffered to the greatest extent, the system is maintained at high viscosity, and the essence has better skin compatibility and soft film forming feel. The viscosity value of the essence after being assembled can reach 15000-25000 cP, the pH value of the system is 6.2-7.0, and meanwhile, the stability is kept, so that the blue copper peptide is not easy to change color in the system.
The invention also discloses a grease composition with four different structures, wherein the grease comprises 1-5% of polydimethylsiloxane, 1-5% of phytosterol/octyl dodecanol lauroyl glutamate, 0.1-2% of jojoba seed oil and 0.1-2% of squalane. The low-viscosity polydimethylsiloxane contains linear and stable Si-O-Si structural units, and has good spreadability and smooth and non-sticky skin feel; phytosterol/octyldodecanol lauroyl glutamate is an emollient derived from natural fatty acids, glutamic acid and phytosterol, which can form a liquid crystal film like ceramide, and has skin conditioning effect; jojoba seed oil is oil from a plant source, is an ester composed of long straight-chain monounsaturated fatty acid and monounsaturated fatty alcohol, has good cold and hot stability and strong oxidation resistance, and is easy to be absorbed by skin; squalane is hydrocarbon compound composed of six isoprene double bonds, and has good permeability, lubricity and air permeability. The invention has good affinity with skin and quick absorption by adding four kinds of grease with different structures, and can improve the moistening degree of essence and provide soft and oily skin feel.
In terms of efficacy, the invention stimulates the synthesis of endogenous hyaluronic acid and skin collagen through acetyl hexapeptide-8, palmitoyl tripeptide-5, tetradecylamino Ding Xianxie amino butyric acid urea trifluoroacetate and acetyl dipeptide-1 cetyl ester, improves the skin compactness and has instant anti-aging effect; the moisturizing agent, the grease, the lactobacillus/soybean milk fermentation product filtrate, the trimethylpentanediol/adipic acid/glycerin crosslinked polymer, the biological glycon-2, the acetylated sodium hyaluronate and the tetrahydropyrimidine carboxylic acid are compounded, so that the normal efficacy of the blue copper peptide is not affected, and the moisturizing agent has the characteristics of double-acting moisturizing, stratum corneum barrier repairing, skin elasticity improving, high moisturizing performance and skin comfort; the skin is also maintained at healthy weak acidic pH, the synthesis of skin collagen and hyaluronic acid is promoted, and the water content of the skin is immediately improved; through the compounding of the tetrahydropyrimidine carboxylic acid, the madecassoside, the panthenol and the pantetheine calcium sulfonate, the functions of reducing inflammation, protecting and repairing damaged cells, reducing the damage of ultraviolet rays to the cells and protecting cell membranes from being damaged by a surfactant are achieved.
In addition, in the preparation process, the method can well avoid the inactivation of active ingredients and improve the stability of the product by limiting parameters such as the temperature of each step and the sequence of operation steps.
Drawings
FIG. 1 is a graph showing the average value of the results of the lactic acid stinging experiment in example 1 of the present invention;
fig. 2 is a visual evaluation chart of an expert of embodiment 1 of the present invention.
Detailed Description
The invention is further illustrated by the following examples, which are not intended to be limiting.
A repairing and anti-aging essence with high content of blue copper peptide comprises the following components in percentage by mass: 0.3 to 2 percent of blue copper peptide, 5 to 10 percent of humectant, 0.25 to 2 percent of thickener, 0.1 to 1 percent of pH regulator, 0.5 to 5 percent of nonionic emulsifier, 3 to 10 percent of grease, 0.05 to 3 percent of penetration enhancer, 15 to 30 percent of skin conditioner and the balance of water.
The humectant comprises the following components in percentage by mass: 1 to 5 percent of 1, 3-propanediol, 1.5 to 3.5 percent of 1, 2-pentanediol, 1 to 3 percent of 1, 2-hexanediol, 1 to 3 percent of glycerol and 0.1 to 1.0 percent of glyceroglycol.
The thickener comprises the following components in percentage by mass: 0.1 to 1 percent of acrylamide dimethyl taurate/VP copolymer, 0.1 to 0.5 percent of acrylic acid (ester)/C10-30 alkanol acrylate cross-linked polymer, 0.1 to 0.5 percent of sodium hyaluronate and 0.01 to 0.2 percent of tremella polysaccharide.
The pH regulator comprises the following components in percentage by mass: arginine 0.1-1%.
The nonionic emulsifier comprises the following components in percentage by mass: 0.1 to 2.5 percent of C12-20 acid PEG-8 ester and 0.01 to 2.5 percent of squalol.
The grease comprises the following components in percentage by mass: 1 to 5 percent of polydimethylsiloxane, 1 to 5 percent of phytosterol/octyl dodecanol lauroyl glutamate, 0.1 to 2 percent of jojoba seed oil and 0.1 to 2 percent of squalane.
The penetration enhancer comprises the following components in percentage by mass: 1.5 to 2.5 percent of inositol and 0.01 to 0.5 percent of bis-diethoxydiglycol cyclohexane 1, 4-dicarboxylic acid ester.
The skin conditioner comprises the following components in percentage by mass: 1 to 5 percent of trimethyl pentanediol/adipic acid/glycerin crosslinked polymer, 0.1 to 2 percent of acetyl hexapeptide-80.001 to 0.1 percent of lactobacillus/soybean milk fermentation product filtrate, 0.01 to 2 percent of panthenol, 0.001 to 0.1 percent of palmitoyl tripeptide-50.001, 0.001 to 0.1 percent of tetradecylamino Ding Xianxie amino carbamide trifluoroacetate, 0.001 to 0.1 percent of acetyl dipeptide-1 cetyl ester, 0.1 to 1 percent of tetrahydropyrimidine carboxylic acid, 20.01 to 1 percent of biological gum, 0.01 to 1 percent of pantetheine calcium sulfonate, 0.05 to 0.25 percent of madecassoside and 0.05 to 0.25 percent of acetylated sodium hyaluronate.
The preparation method of the repairing anti-aging essence comprises the following steps:
a. uniformly mixing humectant, sodium hyaluronate in thickener, tremella polysaccharide, inositol in penetration enhancer, panthenol in skin conditioner, tetrahydropyrimidine carboxylic acid and acetylated sodium hyaluronate with water, heating to 70-75deg.C, stirring until dissolution is complete, and maintaining the temperature for 30min to obtain a1 product; mixing and heating the emulsifier and the grease according to a proportion, stirring until the emulsifier and the grease are completely dissolved, and preserving the heat for 30min to obtain a2 product; adding the a2 product into the a1 product, and homogenizing for 3-5 min at the speed of 2500-3500 r/min to obtain a A product;
b. completely soaking acrylic acid (ester)/C10-30 alkanol acrylate crosslinked polymer in the thickener with 40 times of water by weight, adding the water and the acrylamide dimethyl taurate/VP copolymer in the thickener into the A product, and homogenizing for 2-4 min at a speed of 2500-3500 r/min to obtain a B product;
c. completely dissolving the pH regulator with 40 times of water by weight, adding the solution into the product B, and stirring the solution for 2 to 4 minutes at the speed of 2500 to 3500r/min to obtain a product C;
d. cooling the product C to 40-50 ℃ at the speed of 0.5 ℃/min, then adding bis-diethoxy diglycol cyclohexane 1, 4-dicarboxylic acid ester in a permeation promoter and trimethyl pentanediol/adipic acid/glycerin crosslinked polymer in a skin conditioner, acetyl hexapeptide-8, lactobacillus/soybean milk fermentation product filtrate, palmitoyl tripeptide-5, tetradecylamino Ding Xianxie amino-carbamide butyrate urea trifluoroacetate, acetyl dipeptide-1 cetyl ester, biological gum-2, pantetheine calcium sulfonate, madecassoside and acetylated sodium hyaluronate, and stirring for 15min to obtain a product D;
e. blue copper peptide and water are mixed according to the weight ratio of 1:1, uniformly stirring the mixture in proportion to obtain an e1 product; cooling the D product to 35-45 ℃ at the speed of 0.5 ℃/min, then adding the e1 product, preserving heat and stirring for 15min to obtain the e2 product; then de-soaking the E2 product, cooling to 30-35 ℃ and discharging to obtain an E product;
f. filtering the E product by a 200-mesh filter screen to obtain a finished essence product, wherein the pH value of the finished essence product is 6.2-7.0, and the viscosity of the finished essence product is 15000-25000 cP.
Example 1:
a repairing and anti-aging essence containing high content of blue copper peptide comprises blue copper peptide, humectant, thickener, pH regulator, emulsifier, oil, penetration enhancer, skin conditioner and water,
wherein, the blue copper peptide comprises the following components by weight: tripeptide-1 copper 0.5g.
The humectant comprises the following components in parts by weight: 5g of 1, 3-propanediol, 2g of 1, 2-pentanediol, 1g of 1, 2-hexanediol, 2g of glycerol and 0.15g of glycerol glucoside.
The thickener comprises the following components in parts by weight: 0.8g of acrylamide dimethyl taurate/VP copolymer, 0.4g of acrylic acid (ester)/C10-30 alkanol acrylate cross-linked polymer, 0.25g of sodium hyaluronate and 0.1g of tremella polysaccharide.
The pH regulator comprises the following components in parts by weight: arginine 0.45g.
The emulsifier comprises the following components in parts by weight: 2g of PEG-8 ester of C12-20 acid and 0.2g of squalol.
The grease comprises the following components in parts by weight: 4g of polydimethylsiloxane, 2g of phytosterol/octyldodecanol lauroyl glutamate, 0.5g of jojoba seed oil and 0.5g of squalane.
The penetration enhancer comprises the following components in parts by weight: inositol 1.5g, bis-diethoxydiglycol cyclohexane 1, 4-dicarboxylate 0.3g.
The skin conditioning agent comprises the following components in parts by weight: 3g of trimethyl pentanediol/adipic acid/glycerin crosslinked polymer, 80.001g of acetyl hexapeptide, 1g of lactobacillus/soybean milk fermentation product filtrate, 1g of panthenol, 0.005g of palmitoyl tripeptide-50.005 g, 0.005g of tetradecylamino Ding Xianxie amino amidobutyric acid urea trifluoroacetate, 0.005g of acetyl dipeptide-1 cetyl ester, 0.5g of tetrahydropyrimidine carboxylic acid, 20.3g of biogel, 0.02g of pantetheine sulfonic acid, 0.2g of madecassoside and 0.08g of acetylated sodium hyaluronate.
The preparation method of the repairing anti-aging essence comprises the following steps:
a. uniformly mixing humectant, sodium hyaluronate in thickener, tremella polysaccharide, inositol in penetration enhancer, panthenol in skin conditioner, tetrahydropyrimidine carboxylic acid, and acetylated sodium hyaluronate with water, heating to 75deg.C, stirring until dissolution is complete, and maintaining for 30min to obtain product a 1; mixing and heating the emulsifier and the grease in proportion, stirring until the emulsifier and the grease are completely dissolved, and preserving heat for 30min to obtain a2 product; adding the a2 product into the a1 product, and homogenizing at a speed of 3000r/min for 5min to obtain a product A;
b. completely soaking acrylic acid (ester)/C10-30 alkanol acrylate crosslinked polymer in the thickener with 40 times of water, adding the water and the acrylamide dimethyl taurate/VP copolymer in the thickener into the A product, and homogenizing at 3000r/min for 3min to obtain the B product;
c. completely dissolving pH regulator with 40 times of water, adding into product B, and stirring at 3000r/min for 3min to obtain product C;
d. cooling the product C to 45 ℃ at the speed of 0.5 ℃/min, then adding bis-diethoxy diglycol cyclohexane 1, 4-dicarboxylic acid ester in a permeation enhancer and trimethyl pentanediol/adipic acid/glycerin crosslinked polymer in a skin conditioner, acetyl hexapeptide-8, lactobacillus/soybean milk fermentation product filtrate, palmitoyl tripeptide-5, tetradecylamino Ding Xianxie amino carbamide trifluoroacetate, acetyl dipeptide-1 cetyl ester, biological gum-2, pantetheine calcium sulfonate and madecassoside, and stirring for 15min to obtain a product D;
e. tripeptide-1 copper and water are mixed according to the weight ratio of 1:1, uniformly stirring the mixture in proportion to obtain an e1 product; cooling the D product to 40 ℃ at the speed of 0.5 ℃/min, then adding the e1 product, preserving heat and stirring for 15min to obtain the e2 product; then de-soaking the E2 product, cooling to 30 ℃ and discharging to obtain an E product;
f. filtering the E product by a 100-mesh filter screen to obtain the essence finished product. The pH value of the finished essence product is 6, and the viscosity of the finished essence product is 20000cP.
Comparative examples 1 to 5 were each prepared according to the preparation method of example 1, based on the component ratios in table 1.
Table 1 composition table of example 1 and comparative examples 1 to 5
Stability test of example 1 and comparative examples 1 to 4:
the initial state, color and viscosity values at 2 weeks and 4 weeks of each sample were observed by storing example 1 and comparative examples 1 to 4 at 25℃under light at 45℃for 4 weeks, and the results are shown in Table 2:
TABLE 2 stability test results
According to the invention, as the result is obtained, the nonionic emulsifier is more stable in the blue copper peptide essence than the ionic emulsifier, and the nonionic emulsifier is 0.1-2.5% of C12-20 acid PEG-8 ester and 0.01-2.5% of scyllitol are compounded to serve as the emulsifier of the essence, so that the chelating of the nonionic emulsifier with copper ions in the blue copper peptide can be effectively avoided, stable oil-in-water droplets with small particle size can be formed in an essence system, and the content and performance stability of the blue copper peptide in the essence are improved;
when acrylic acid (ester)/C10-30 alkanol acrylate cross-linked polymer and acrylamide dimethyl taurate ammonium/VP copolymer are singly matched with blue copper peptide, obvious viscosity reduction phenomenon occurs, and the two thickening agents can be compounded to synergistically increase the efficiency, so that the viscosity reduction can be buffered, and the stability of the viscosity is improved; the sodium hydroxide is used for neutralization, the system is unstable and easy to change color, and the arginine is used for neutralization, so that the system is stable, the viscosity value of the essence after being assembled can reach higher 15000-25000 cP, and the essence is kept in a relatively stable state for a long time. The acrylic acid (ester)/C10-30 alkanol acrylate cross-linked polymer and the acrylamide dimethyl taurate/VP copolymer are compounded, wherein the acrylic acid (ester)/C10-30 alkanol acrylate cross-linked polymer refers to one or more of U20, U21 and TR-1, and a specific pH regulator arginine is used for neutralization, so that the viscosity reduction of a formula system can be buffered, the system is maintained at high viscosity, and the essence has better skin compatibility and soft film forming feel.
Efficacy test of example 1 and comparative example 5:
60 female subjects aged 18-60 years were selected, and the subjects required: the face Pi Fufan is red (red blood streak, acne mark and the like), the face is dander (the proportion of the subject is 40-60%), the skin is sensitive (the proportion of the subject is 40-60% in the lactic acid stinging experiment). Subjects were divided into 2 groups of 30 persons each, one group of subjects using the sample of example 1 and the other group of subjects using the sample of comparative example 5. Three pump samples were used daily after the morning and evening face cleansing, gently massaged until the essence was completely absorbed for a total of 28 days. Long-term sun exposure, outdoor exercises, travel, etc. cannot be performed during the entire test period, and cosmetics or medicines having similar effects to those of the products must not be used, and the subjects must not change the daily care habits during the test period.
Subjects before and after 28 days of sample use, images of the face of the subjects were acquired using a VISIA-CR, respectively, subject images were acquired using VC20 Plus and analyzed for cheek skin roughness SEr, skin smoothness SEsm, each probe of the germany CK instrument: corneometer CM 825 measured the moisture content of the cheek stratum corneum, tewameter TM 300 measured the amount of cheek percutaneous moisture loss, glossemeter GL200 measured the skin gloss, and Colorimeter CL400 measured the skin color. Descriptive statistics, including number, mean, standard deviation, minimum and maximum values, etc., are performed on each measurement using EXCEL software. And comparing the measured values at different time points with the basic value by using SPSS analysis software, and performing significance test on normal distribution of the data improvement values by using Shapiro-WilkTest.
Lifting/improvement after use of the product (rate of change) = (post-use data-pre-use data)/pre-use data;
the test results are shown in Table 3:
TABLE 3 results of test for various skin parameters 28 days after the subject used the sample
| Test index | Example 1 | Comparative example 5 |
| Skin moisture content | Increase by 33.08% | Increase by 22.71% |
| Percutaneous moisture loss | Reduced by 30.94% | Reduced by 15.23% |
| Elasticity of | Increased by 4.87% | Increase by 2.21% |
| Wrinkles | Reduced by 13.90% | Reduced by 1.84% |
| Skin gloss | Increased by 25.57% | Increase by 5.89% |
| Skin-whitening and reddening | Reduced by 27.65% | Reduced by 9.54% |
| Tightening | Increase by 13.20% | Increase by 6.68% |
From the test results in table 3, the moisture content, elasticity, skin gloss and firmness of the cheek stratum corneum of the subject were all significantly increased after the subject used the test sample for 28 days; the skin loss, wrinkles and redness were significantly reduced, and the subjects of example 1 were better in improving the parameters of the skin indicators than comparative example 5. The results show that the essence obtained by the invention has better skin repairing and anti-aging effects.
Lactic acid stinging experiment of example 1:
30 female subjects aged 18-60 years were selected, and the subjects required: the sample of example 1 was used by subjects with red Pi Fufan (red blood streaks, acne marks, etc.), dander on the face (subject at 40-60%), and sensitive skin (subject at 40-60% positive for lactic acid stinging). Three pump samples were used daily after the morning and evening face cleansing, gently massaged until the essence was completely absorbed for a total of 28 days. Long-term sun exposure, outdoor exercises, travel, etc. cannot be performed during the entire test period, and cosmetics or medicines having similar effects to those of the products must not be used, and the subjects must not change the daily care habits during the test period.
The testing method comprises the following steps: at room temperature, 50 μl of 10% lactic acid solution was added dropwise to either side of the nasolabial folds, and subjects were asked for subjective symptoms at 2.5min and 5min, respectively, and scored by a score 4 method (0 for no tingling, 1 for mild tingling, 2 for moderate tingling, and 3 for heavy tingling). Each query point score was then added as a result of the lactic acid stinging test, the results of which are shown in fig. 1.
The results of the lactic acid stinging test show that: after use of the test sample, the nasolabial acid stinging score was significantly reduced at 2.5min (p < 0.001), significantly reduced at 5min (p < 0.01), and significantly reduced total score at 2.5min and 5min (p < 0.001) after 14 days of use of the test sample compared to before use. 28 days after use of the test sample, the nasolabial lactic acid stinging score decreased significantly at 2.5min (p < 0.001), at 5min (p < 0.001), and the total score at 2.5min and 5min (p < 0.001).
Expert visual assessment experiment of example 1:
30 female subjects aged 18-60 years were selected, and the subjects required: the sample of example 1 was used by subjects with red Pi Fufan (red blood streaks, acne marks, etc.), dander on the face (subject at 40-60%), and sensitive skin (subject at 40-60% positive for lactic acid stinging). Three pump samples were used daily after the morning and evening face cleansing, gently massaged until the essence was completely absorbed for a total of 28 days. Long-term sun exposure, outdoor exercises, travel, etc. cannot be performed during the entire test period, and cosmetics or medicines having similar effects to those of the products must not be used, and the subjects must not change the daily care habits during the test period.
The degree of skin response of the subject is assessed by a trained professional researcher or dermatologist according to a scale.
Visual assessment results are shown in fig. 2, where "n.s." in fig. 2 indicates no statistical difference, p >0.05; ". Times." indicates significant differences, p <0.05 is 0.01; "x" indicates significant differences, 0.001. Ltoreq.p <0.01; ", indicates significant difference, p <0.001.
The skin burn score (expert evaluation) was significantly reduced (p < 0.01), the skin erythema score (expert evaluation) was significantly reduced (p < 0.05), and the skin desquamation score (expert evaluation) was significantly reduced (p < 0.01) after 14 days of use of the test sample compared to before use of the test product. The skin dryness score (expert evaluation) decreased significantly (p < 0.01), the skin gloss score (expert evaluation) increased, and the skin texture (texture) uniformity score (expert evaluation) increased. 28 days after use of the test sample, the skin burn score (expert evaluation) decreased significantly (p < 0.001), the skin erythema score (expert evaluation) decreased significantly (p < 0.01), and the skin desquamation score (expert evaluation) decreased significantly (p < 0.001). Skin dryness score (expert evaluation) significance decreased (p < 0.001), skin gloss score (expert evaluation) significance increased (p < 0.05), skin texture (texture) uniformity score (expert evaluation) significance increased (p < 0.01).
Claims (3)
1. A repairing and anti-aging essence with high content of blue copper peptide is characterized by comprising the blue copper peptide, a humectant, a thickener, a pH regulator, a nonionic emulsifier, grease, a penetration enhancer and a skin conditioner, and the balance being water, wherein the repairing and anti-aging essence comprises the following components in percentage by mass,
the content of the blue copper peptide is 0.3% -2%;
the humectant comprises 1 to 5 percent of 1, 3-propanediol, 1.5 to 3.5 percent of 1, 2-pentanediol, 1 to 3 percent of 1, 2-hexanediol, 1 to 3 percent of glycerol and 0.1 to 1.0 percent of glyceroglycoside;
the nonionic emulsifier comprises 0.1-2.5% of PEG-8 ester of C12-20 acid and 0.01-2.5% of squalol;
the thickener comprises 0.1 to 1 percent of acrylamide dimethyl taurate/VP copolymer, 0.1 to 0.5 percent of acrylic acid (ester)/C10-30 alkanol acrylate cross-linked polymer, 0.1 to 0.5 percent of sodium hyaluronate and 0.01 to 0.2 percent of tremella polysaccharide;
0.1 to 1 percent of pH regulator arginine;
the grease comprises 1-5% of polydimethylsiloxane, 1-5% of phytosterol/octyl dodecanol lauroyl glutamate, 0.1-2% of jojoba seed oil and 0.1-2% of squalane;
the penetration enhancer comprises 0.5-2.5% of inositol and 0.01-0.5% of bis-diethoxydiglycol cyclohexane 1, 4-dicarboxylic acid ester; and
the skin conditioning agent comprises 1 to 5 percent of trimethyl pentanediol/adipic acid/glycerin crosslinked polymer, 0.1 to 2 percent of acetyl hexapeptide-80.001 to 0.1 percent of lactobacillus/soybean milk fermentation product filtrate, 0.01 to 2 percent of panthenol, 0.001 to 0.1 percent of palmitoyl tripeptide-50.001, 0.001 to 0.1 percent of tetradecyl amino Ding Xianxie amino carbamimidyl butyrate urea trifluoroacetate, 0.001 to 0.1 percent of acetyl dipeptide-1 cetyl ester, 0.1 to 1 percent of tetrahydromethyl pyrimidine carboxylic acid, 0.01 to 1 percent of biological gum-2, 0.01 to 1 percent of pantetheine calcium sulfonate, 0.05 to 0.25 percent of madecassoside and 0.05 to 0.25 percent of acetylated sodium hyaluronate.
2. The method for preparing the repair and anti-aging essence with high content of blue copper peptide according to claim 1, which is characterized in that: the method comprises the following steps:
a. uniformly mixing humectant, sodium hyaluronate in thickener, tremella polysaccharide, inositol in penetration enhancer, panthenol in skin conditioner, tetrahydropyrimidine carboxylic acid and acetylated sodium hyaluronate with water, heating to 70-75deg.C, stirring until dissolution is complete, and maintaining temperature to obtain a1 product; mixing and heating the emulsifier and the grease according to a proportion, stirring until the emulsifier and the grease are completely dissolved, and preserving heat to obtain an a2 product; adding the a2 product into the a1 product, and homogenizing for 3-5 min at the speed of 2500-3500 r/min to obtain a A product;
b. completely soaking acrylic acid (ester)/C10-30 alkanol acrylate crosslinked polymer in the thickener with water, adding the water and the acrylamide dimethyl taurate/VP copolymer in the thickener into the product A, and homogenizing at a speed of 2500-3500 r/min for 2-4 min to obtain a product B;
c. adding the pH regulator into the product B after completely dissolving the pH regulator by water, and stirring the mixture for 2 to 4 minutes at the speed of 2500 to 3500r/min to obtain a product C;
d. cooling the product C to 40-50 ℃, then adding bis-diethoxy diglycol cyclohexane 1, 4-dicarboxylic acid ester in a permeation promoter and trimethyl pentanediol/adipic acid/glycerin cross-linked polymer, acetyl hexapeptide-8, lactobacillus/soybean milk fermentation product filtrate, palmitoyl tripeptide-5, tetradecylamino Ding Xianxie amino carbamide trifluoroacetate, acetyl dipeptide-1 cetyl ester, biological gum-2, pantetheine calcium sulfonate and madecassoside in a skin conditioner, and uniformly stirring to obtain a product D;
e. blue copper peptide and water are mixed according to the weight ratio of 1:1, uniformly stirring the mixture in proportion to obtain an e1 product; cooling the D product to 35-45 ℃, then adding the e1 product, preserving heat and uniformly stirring to obtain the e2 product; and then cooling the e2 product to 30-35 ℃ for discharging to obtain the finished essence product.
3. The method for preparing the repairing and anti-aging essence according to claim 2, which is characterized in that: the pH value of the finished essence product is 6.2-7.0, and the viscosity of the finished essence product is 15000-25000 cP.
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| CN113616542A (en) * | 2021-08-30 | 2021-11-09 | 浙江宜格企业管理集团有限公司 | Blue copper peptide repairing mask and preparation method thereof |
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| CN113616542A (en) * | 2021-08-30 | 2021-11-09 | 浙江宜格企业管理集团有限公司 | Blue copper peptide repairing mask and preparation method thereof |
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