CN110664644B

CN110664644B - Skin care composition containing folic acid, essence and preparation method thereof

Info

Publication number: CN110664644B
Application number: CN201910908284.7A
Authority: CN
Inventors: 郝姗姗; 罗丽莲; 肖艳皎; 韩雅慧; 易斌
Original assignee: Beijing Silian Pharmaceutical Industry Co ltd
Current assignee: Beijing Silian Pharmaceutical Industry Co ltd
Priority date: 2019-09-25
Filing date: 2019-09-25
Publication date: 2022-05-17
Anticipated expiration: 2039-09-25
Also published as: CN110664644A

Abstract

The invention relates to the technical field of daily necessities, in particular to a folic acid-containing skin care composition, folic acid-containing skin care essence and a preparation method of the folic acid-containing skin care essence. Comprises the following components: folic acid and/or derivatives thereof, active polypeptides, hyaluronic acid and/or derivatives thereof, hydrolysed hyaluronic acid and/or derivatives thereof, ceramide 3. The invention is compatible with proper proportion, so that the obtained product has multiple effects of moisturizing, resisting oxidation and wrinkle and brightening skin color.

Description

Skin care composition containing folic acid, essence and preparation method thereof

Technical Field

The invention relates to the technical field of daily necessities, in particular to a folic acid-containing skin care composition, folic acid-containing skin care essence and a preparation method of the folic acid-containing skin care essence.

Background

Environmental pollution, temperature changes and pressure caused by season changes, ultraviolet irradiation, age increase, metabolism slowing and other factors can cause skin moisture loss, elasticity loss, rough and dull skin, wrinkle formation and a plurality of skin problems. For the vast women who love beauty, moisture is the first factor for maintaining beautiful skin, and whitening, sun protection, spot lightening and the like are all completed on the basis of moisturizing. Therefore, it is necessary to moisturize the skin, maintain or improve the elasticity of the skin, and further achieve the purpose of moisturizing and wrinkle resistance.

At present, moisturizing and wrinkle resistance are performed on skin, and the elasticity of the skin is improved mainly through the following ways:

(1) skin care product with moisturizing and anti-wrinkle functions

This is currently the most widely used approach. Certain active ingredients are added into the skin care product, so that the aims of moisturizing, resisting wrinkles and delaying senescence can be fulfilled. These active ingredients are of various kinds, such as vitamins and derivatives thereof, coenzymes, plant polypeptides, synthetic polypeptides, amino acids and derivatives thereof, organic acids, alkaloids, and the like. The skin care product is used for moisturizing and improving the elasticity of the skin, and has the advantage of convenient use.

(2) Medical cosmetology

The medical cosmetology refers to a cosmetic mode of repairing and remodeling the human appearance and the forms of each part of the human body by applying medicines, operations, medical instruments and other medical technical methods with traumatism or irreversibility. With the continuous improvement of living standard of people and the continuous increase of the demand of the masses on medical care, the medical plastic beauty industry is continuously developed, and hundreds of thousands of people receive various medical plastic beauty operations, such as a water needle, a botulinum injection needle, a hyaluronic acid needle, a tight lifting operation and the like which are well known in the ear.

The medical beauty effect is very good, which also attracts the beauty of women. However, because of the good effect and high profit of medical beauty treatment, some non-qualified organizations participate in a lot, so that medical accidents related to medical beauty treatment in the market are continuously generated, the medical accidents are slightly influenced on the appearance, and the life is seriously threatened. Meanwhile, the medical cosmetology is high in charge, and the cost of one treatment is often up to thousands of yuan, so that the wide application of the cosmetology is limited.

(3) Regulating oral cavity

The method is a beautifying method for delaying senility and retaining youthful looks or treating disbeauty diseases through oral administration of traditional Chinese medicines, health products, foods and the like, and has the effects of moistening skin, preventing wrinkles and removing wrinkles, brightening and whitening, protecting hair and brightening, protecting skin and preventing chapping, and the like, such as the effects of 'good color', 'beautiful face', and the like in ancient herbal literature, and traditional medicinal materials such as ginkgo, angelica, bletilla striata and the like; modern people have collagen, fruit and vegetable powder, enzyme, green juice and the like, and by taking some components which are possibly not ingested enough or not ingested in daily life but are beneficial to the body, the body is conditioned, and then the effects of maintaining beauty and keeping young are achieved. But the oral conditioning has slow effect on improving the skin.

Therefore, a composition which has a wide action range and is suitable for a wide range of people and can condition the skin state, supplement the moisture of the skin and improve the skin elasticity is needed. The invention patent application CN 105878170A relates to the technical field of skin care products, in particular to a production process of a whitening and skin-tendering essence, which adopts the following technical scheme: the formula comprises the following components in percentage by mass: 70-76.5% of water, 5.2-6.3% of propylene glycol, 3.6-4.3% of nicotinamide, 2.6-3.4% of glycerol, 1.7-2.3% of betaine, 1.8-2.2% of glycerol polymethacrylate, 1.75-2.15% of panthenol, 2.6-3.5% of yeast fermentation product extract, 0.85-1.2% of sodium ascorbyl phosphate, 0.7-0.9% of phenoxyethanol, 0.6-0.95% of folic acid, 0.45-0.55% of urea, 0.45-0.65% of lonicera confusa extract, 0.45-0.65% of fig extract, 0.45-0.65% of cucumber extract, 0.07-0.12% of sodium hyaluronate and 0.07-0.12% of carbomer; the skin care product has the advantages of simple production process, controllable cost, environmental protection, naturalness, integration of three functions of heat preservation, skin care and skin conditioning and the like. However, the product has conditioning effect on the skin, has no repairing effect and has no repairing and protecting effect on the injured stratum corneum.

At present, no product with low cost has the effects of supplementing water, resisting wrinkles, repairing skin barriers, repairing cells and the like.

Disclosure of Invention

In order to solve the problems of high cost, single effect and the like in the prior art, the invention provides a folic acid-containing skin care composition which comprises the following components: folic acid and/or derivatives thereof, active polypeptides, hyaluronic acid and/or derivatives thereof, hydrolysed hyaluronic acid and/or derivatives thereof, ceramide 3.

Further, the folic acid and/or the derivative thereof is preferably one or more of folic acid and 5-methyltetrahydrofolic acid.

Further, the active polypeptide is one or more of acetyl hexapeptide-8, palmitoyl oligopeptide, palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, oligopeptide-1, hexapeptide-2 and palmitoyl tripeptide-5.

Still further, the active polypeptide is preferably a mixture of acetyl hexapeptide-8, oligopeptide-1 and palmitoyl tripeptide-5, and the mass ratio of the acetyl hexapeptide-8, the palmitoyl tripeptide-5 and the oligopeptide-1 is 4:1: 5.

Still further, the active polypeptide is preferably a mixture of palmitoyl oligopeptide, palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7 and hexapeptide-2, and the mass ratio of palmitoyl oligopeptide, palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7 and hexapeptide-2 is 4:1: 5.

Further, the hyaluronic acid and/or a derivative thereof is preferably one or more of sodium hyaluronate and sodium acetylated hyaluronate.

Further, the hyaluronic acid and/or the derivative thereof is selected from a mixture of sodium hyaluronate and sodium acetylated hyaluronate, and the mass ratio of the hyaluronic acid and/or the derivative thereof is 0.15: 0.05.

Further, the hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid and/or derivative thereof is preferably hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid.

Further, the coating comprises the following components in parts by weight: 0.001-1 part of folic acid and/or derivatives thereof, 0.001-1 part of active polypeptide, 0.01-0.5 part of hyaluronic acid and/or derivatives thereof, 0.01-0.5 part of hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid and/or derivatives thereof and 30.001-1 part of ceramide.

Further, the coating comprises the following components in parts by weight: 0.01-1 part of folic acid and/or derivatives thereof, 0.2-0.5 part of hyaluronic acid and/or derivatives thereof, 0.05-0.5 part of hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid and/or derivatives thereof, 0.01-1 part of active polypeptide and 30.05-1 part of ceramide.

Further, the composition comprises the following components in parts by weight: 0.01 part of folic acid and/or derivatives thereof, 0.01 part of active polypeptide, 0.2 part of hyaluronic acid and/or derivatives thereof, 0.05 part of hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid and/or derivatives thereof and 30.05 parts of ceramide.

Further, the following components are contained by weight: 0.01 part of folic acid, 0.15 part of sodium hyaluronate, 0.05 part of hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid, 0.05 part of acetylated sodium hyaluronate, 0. 80.004 parts of acetyl hexapeptide, 10.005 parts of oligopeptide, 50.001 parts of palmitoyl tripeptide and 30.05 parts of ceramide.

The invention also provides an essence containing folic acid, which comprises the composition, a humectant, a thickener, a chelating agent, a skin conditioning agent and water.

Further, the composition comprises the following components in parts by weight: 0.023 to 4 percent of the composition, 1.7 to 18.65 percent of the humectant, 0 to 4.2 percent of the thickening agent, 0.01 to 0.08 percent of the chelating agent, 0 to 10 percent of the skin conditioning agent and the balance of water.

Further, the humectant is one or more of glycerol, betaine, diglycerol, butanediol, 1, 2-hexanediol, 1, 3-propanediol, methyl propanediol, caprylyl glycol, 1, 2-pentanediol and glyceryl polyether-26.

Further, the humectant is one or more of glycerol, betaine, methyl propylene glycol, 1, 2-hexanediol, 1, 2-pentanediol, caprylyl glycol and butanediol.

Still further, the humectant is 4.5% by weight of glycerin, 3% by weight of betaine, 1% by weight of methyl propylene glycol, 0.9% by weight of 1, 2-hexanediol, 0.02% by weight of 1, 2-pentanediol, 0.01% by weight of caprylyl glycol, 0.4% by weight of butylene glycol. The percentage of the humectant is that the humectant comprises all components in percentage of the total weight of the essence. The same applies below.

Further, the thickening agent is one or more of acrylic acid (ester)/C10-30 alkanol acrylate cross-linked polymer, carbomer, cellulose gum, xanthan gum, sodium acrylate copolymer, sodium polyacrylate and magnesium aluminum silicate.

Further, the thickener is a (ester) acrylic acid/C10-30 alkanol acrylate crosspolymer, cellulose gum, and carbomer.

Still further, the thickener was 0.2% acrylic/C10-30 alkanol acrylate crosspolymer, 0.05% cellulose gum, and 0.1% carbomer by weight.

Further, the chelating agent is one or more of EDTA disodium salt, EDTA trisodium salt and EDTA tetrasodium salt.

Still further, the chelating agent is disodium EDTA.

Still further, the chelating agent is EDTA disodium salt 0.03% by weight.

The skin conditioner is one or more of panthenol, nicotinamide, diphenyl polydimethylsiloxane, glycerol tri (ethyl hexanoate) ester, polyglycerol-10 myristate, octyl dodecanol polyether-16, p-hydroxyacetophenone, arginine, lotus flower extract, phyllostachys pubescens extract, roselle flower extract, lily flower extract and hydrolyzed collagen.

The invention also provides a preparation method of the essence, which comprises the following steps:

(1) mixing water, humectant and chelating agent to obtain a mixture A;

(2) pre-dissolving a thickening agent in water, and adding the thickening agent into the mixture A to obtain a mixture B;

(3) and adding the composition and the skin conditioner into the mixture B, and cooling and defoaming to obtain the essence.

Further, in the step (1), after mixing, the temperature is raised to 75-85 ℃, and the mixture is stirred until the mixture is dissolved.

Further, in the step (1), after mixing, the temperature is raised to 80 ℃ and stirring is carried out until dissolution.

Further, in the step (1), the temperature is reduced to 40-50 ℃ after dissolution.

Further, in the step (1), the temperature is reduced to 45 ℃ after dissolution.

Further, in the step (3), the cooling and defoaming temperature is 30-35 ℃.

Further, in the step (3), the cooling and defoaming temperature is 33 ℃.

The invention also provides the application of the composition, the essence or the essence prepared by the preparation method in skin care products.

The invention adds folic acid and/or derivatives thereof, active polypeptide, hyaluronic acid and/or derivatives thereof, hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid and/or derivatives thereof and ceramide 3 as main raw materials, and has multiple effects of moisturizing, resisting oxidation and wrinkle and brightening skin color by matching according to proper proportion.

The components have the characteristics and the functions that:

sodium hyaluronate: is in the form of sodium salt of hyaluronic acid, is a high molecular weight linear polysaccharide, widely exists in extracellular matrix of connective tissue of animals and human bodies, and is one of components of skin of human bodies. It is like a "molecular sponge" and can absorb and retain thousands of times its own weight of water, and is the internationally recognized best humectant, known as a "natural moisturizing factor". The high molecular weight sodium hyaluronate forms a molecular network through intermolecular entanglement, forms a viscoelastic film on the surface of skin, and has excellent moisturizing performance.

Acetylated sodium hyaluronate: are distinctive hyaluronic acid derivatives, due to their amphiphilic nature, easy to use, high softness of the stratum corneum, and provide high water retention capacity (more than 2 times higher than conventional hyaluronic acid). Has a strong affinity for the skin and is held firmly to the surface of the skin to prevent water evaporation from the skin.

Hydrolysis of hyaluronic acid: hyaluronic acid of low molecular weight can deeply permeate into the dermis layer of the skin to improve and regulate the skin metabolism. The protein is combined with protein to form proteoglycan molecules with larger molecular weight, which is an important component for keeping water in loose connective tissues, and the formed sodium hyaluronate-protein-water combined gel adheres cells together, plays a normal role in cell metabolism and tissue water retention, protects the cells from being invaded by pathogenic bacteria, prevents infection and enables the skin to have certain toughness and elasticity.

The hyaluronic acid with large and small molecular weights and the derivatives thereof are compounded for use, so that excellent water replenishing and moisturizing performances are achieved. The use of such ingredients can bring about a sticky feeling, so that the use amount can be reduced by the addition of folic acid and by intermolecular interaction, and a refreshing skin feeling can be obtained while achieving the same moisturizing effect.

Folic acid: vitamin B complex exists in green vegetables and fruits, citrus, yeast, liver, etc. Folic acid is an indispensable substance for producing red blood cells, can help protein metabolism, and is an important auxiliary material. The red blood cells of the human body are renewed about once every four months, and if folic acid is lacked, the generation of the red blood cells is disturbed, so that the volume of the red blood cells is increased and reduced, and the symptoms of pale face and the like are further caused. Meanwhile, when folic acid is externally applied, the moisturizing and repairing performances are excellent. Folic acid can combine water with the weight being 5000 times of that of the folic acid, and has good moisturizing performance. Can activate epidermal cells of skin, promote the generation of natural moisturizing factor NMF in cutin, promote the maintenance of water and the absorption of nutrient components, thereby forming a protective film; and can reduce the water loss of the skin under the condition of not changing the sebum secretion, reduce the keratinization speed of the skin and recover the skin to be tender, elastic and smooth. Folic acid has strong promotion effect on physiological processes such as DNA synthesis, cell metabolism and the like, and can promote DNA chain scission to be recombined, so that skin injury caused by ultraviolet rays is effectively repaired, the skin is restored to be smooth, and the softness and elasticity are regained.

Active polypeptide: and is not limited to one or more polypeptides. Polypeptide refers to a compound with a molecular structure between that of amino acid and protein. The content of the compound in the organism is very trace, but the compound has obvious bioactivity. According to research, some polypeptides are at 10^-7The biological activity is still achieved at the concentration of mol/L. Most of the chemical reactions, biological reactions and evolutionary processes in nature are regulated to some extent by specific amino acid sequences (polypeptides), the biological activity of which has opened up new molecular applications in the fields of dermatology and skin care. The polypeptide has the advantages of incomparable application to the cosmetic:

1) super strong activity. The polypeptide has the greatest characteristic of high activity, can exert the beautifying effect by extremely low dosage, and is generally used for end products, and the content of the polypeptide is microgram level.

2) The effect is mild and exact. The important characteristic of polypeptide differentiation from other materials such as hormones and injectable products is that the effect is mild but definite.

3) Extremely high safety. Due to the homology of the polypeptide and body substances, the excellent compatibility of the polypeptide as anti-wrinkle and anti-aging of the face is ensured, and in addition, due to the good transdermal property, the potential safety hazard caused by injection is avoided.

4) Activity diversity. Because the physiological process of the skin is formed by various biochemical and molecular biological links, a huge active polypeptide molecule library can be reasonably designed by utilizing the modern basic medical theory according to various biochemical mechanisms, thereby causing the activity diversity of the polypeptide for beautifying.

5) It is easy to absorb. Compared with collagen, the molecular weight of the polypeptide is smaller, and the polypeptide can further enter the skin to play a role.

6) The mechanism is clear. The production of each active cosmetic polypeptide is independent of a biochemical physiological mechanism, and the action principle of the polypeptide enables people to be 'seen' and 'seen clearly'.

7) The quality is controllable. Each applied active polypeptide is a single substance, and compared with plant extracts, the quality of the active polypeptide is easy to control, and the purity of the active polypeptide can reach more than 99%.

The formula is selected:

acetyl hexapeptide-8: acetyl hexapeptide-8 is one of the earliest and most widely used cosmetic polypeptides. It can inhibit synthesis of SNARE receptor, inhibit excessive release of catecholamine and acetylcholine (acetylcholine) in skin, locally block nerve transmission muscle contraction information, relax facial muscle, and smooth fine lines. Is particularly suitable for the parts (canthus, face and forehead) with concentrated expression muscles.

Palmitoyl tripeptide-5: the ECM (extracellular matrix) on the skin changes under uv irradiation for a long period of time, resulting in the skin becoming fragile, lacking elasticity and wrinkles. Collagen is an important component of ECM, and its production involves a complex process: TGF-beta (tissue-forming factor) is an important component involved in collagen synthesis, and the multifunctional protein thrombospondin I (TSP) binds to the fragment sequence Arg-Phe-Lys of the inactive TGF-beta complex, thereby inducing the production of active TGF-beta, which induces the production of new collagen. Therefore, the small molecules with the capability of activating TGF-beta can be effective products for repairing wrinkles, so that the formation of new collagen is accelerated. The palmitoyl tripeptide-5 has a specific sequence which is similar to the mechanism of the human body, and can activate TGF-beta to generate collagen and supplement the deficiency of skin collagen so as to enable the skin to be younger.

Oligopeptide-1 is a synthetic peptide consisting of 3 amino acids such as glycine, histidine, lysine and the like. Oligopeptide-1 has various positive effects on cells. It can effectively inhibit cell degeneration, enhance immune function, reduce collagen loss, thereby improving relaxation; the cell activity can be activated, free radicals harmful to human bodies can be eliminated, and the problems of pigment deposition and the like are reduced; the skin care product helps to repair damaged cells, improves cell metabolism, reduces skin oxidation and lightens skin wrinkles.

And is not limited to the above one or three polypeptide molecules.

Ceramide 3: the amide and hydroxyl moieties of the ceramide are polar, rendering the ceramide hydrophilic, and the two long chain alkyl groups are non-polar, rendering the ceramide lipophilic, and thus the ceramide is amphiphilic. Thus, the skin care product has permeability to the sebaceous layer of the skin, is very easy to be absorbed by the skin, can form a barrier to a water layer, maintains skin moisture by forming a net structure in the horny layer, and has water retention capacity. Especially, the moisture retention rate of the aged skin reaches 80 percent. The ceramide content in horny layer of epidermis is 50%, and the decrease of ceramide content can cause the decrease of adhesion between keratinocytes, dry skin and desquamation. Supplementing ceramide can increase ceramide content in horny layer of epidermis, and can improve dry, desquamation, and pachylosis of skin. Ceramide can increase stratum corneum thickness of epidermis, improve water retention ability of skin, reduce wrinkle, increase skin elasticity, and delay skin aging.

Compared with the prior art, the invention has the beneficial effects that:

1. according to the invention, by selecting appropriate raw materials and reasonably matching, the product has the effects of lasting moisturizing, antioxidation, aging inhibition, cell regeneration stimulation and skin barrier repair;

2. the folic acid and/or derivatives thereof, the active polypeptide, the hyaluronic acid and/or derivatives thereof, the hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid and/or derivatives thereof and the ceramide 3 are added as main composition raw materials and are compatible according to a proper proportion, so that the composition has multiple effects of moisturizing, resisting oxidation and wrinkles and brightening skin;

3. according to the invention, by controlling the conditions of the addition sequence of the components, the temperature and the like in the preparation process, the obtained essence active ingredients have high activity, and the effects of moisturizing, resisting wrinkles, repairing skin and brightening skin color are good.

4. According to the invention, the synergistic effect between folic acid and hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid is utilized, so that the functions of moisturizing, oxidation resistance, skin barrier repair and the like of the product are greatly improved.

Detailed Description

The invention will be further described with reference to specific embodiments, the advantages and features of which will become apparent from the description, but which are given by way of illustration only and are not intended to limit the scope of the invention in any way. It will be understood by those skilled in the art that various changes in form and details may be made therein without departing from the spirit and scope of the invention, and that such changes and modifications may be made without departing from the spirit and scope of the invention.

Examples 1-4 Folic acid-containing skin care compositions

The formulation is given in the following table:

comparative example 1

The folate and hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid content were different compared to example 1. The folic acid content was 1.5 parts by weight, and the hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid content was 0.005 parts by weight.

Comparative example 2

In comparison with example 1, equal parts by weight of folic acid were replaced by vitamin B₁₂。

Preparation of test samples

Mixing 97.7 parts by weight of water, 2 parts by weight of glycerol and 0.3 part by weight of xanthan gum to obtain a mixture A, heating to 80 ℃, uniformly stirring until the mixture is dissolved, and cooling to 45 ℃ after the mixture is dissolved; 1 part by weight of the compositions of examples 1 to 4 and comparative examples 1 to 2 was added to 100 parts by weight of the mixture A, and after cooling to 33 ℃, the test samples were obtained by defoaming and filtering.

Effect example 1 moisturizing Effect test

The test is carried out according to the test method recorded in the light industry standard QB/T4256-2011 cosmetic moisturizing efficacy evaluation guideline, 70 subjects are averagely divided into 7 groups, the subjects are coated with the products of examples 1-4 and comparative examples 1-2, the blank control group is not coated with the cosmetics, the subjects are coated with corresponding samples 2 times in the morning and evening, after continuous use for 4 weeks, the coated parts of the subjects are cleaned at the same time, and the skin moisture content of the coated parts is measured by a tester by using a skin moisture content tester. The measurement is carried out 5 times per point, the average value is taken, and the experimental result is as follows:

the experimental results are as follows:

	before use	After 4 weeks of use
			Blank group	28.35±1.20	28.01±1.00e
Example 1	28.53±1.07	48.05±1.39*a
			Example 2	28.55±1.13	45.98±2.20*b
Example 3	28.63±1.21	38.33±2.24*c
			Example 4	28.00±1.13	39.04±1.63*c
Comparative example 1	27.7±1.62	32.01±2.25*d
			Comparative example 2	28.13±1.49	31.01±2.50*d

Indicates that there is a significant difference between itself after 4 weeks of use and before use;

there were significant differences between groups labeled with different letters.

Effect example 2 anti-aging test

70 subjects were divided into 7 groups on average, the products of examples 1 to 4 and comparative examples 1 to 2 were applied to the test group, the cosmetics were not applied to the blank control group, the corresponding samples were applied to the test group 2 times a day in the morning and evening, after 4 weeks of continuous use, the applied parts of the subjects were washed at the same time, and the roughness of the skin texture at the applied parts was measured by the tester using a MicroSkinII multifunctional skin mirror image analysis system. The measurement is carried out 5 times per point, the average value is taken, and the experimental result is as follows:

	roughness of skin texture
		Blank group	12.30±0.83a
Example 1	4.01±0.51e
		Example 2	5.22±0.60d
Example 3	7.95±0.92c
		Example 4	7.35±0.51c
Comparative example 1	11.82±0.81ab
		Comparative example 2	11.20±0.91b

Meanwhile, the skin elasticity tester is used for measuring the skin elasticity values of the tested area and the blank control area, 5 times of measurement are carried out at each point, the average value is taken, the relative change rate of the elasticity is calculated according to the following formula,

relative rate of change in elasticity ═ elasticity of test area-elasticity of placebo area)/elasticity of placebo area

The results are as follows:

	relative rate of change of elasticity
		Blank group	-0.02
Example 1	0.35
		Example 2	0.28
Example 3	0.14
		Example 4	0.17
Comparative example 1	-0.01
		Comparative example 2	0.01

Effect example 3 repair and enhancement of skin Barrier

Study subjects: 70 qualified healthy volunteer subjects, aged 20-50 years, excluded those who were pregnant or lactating, had skin disorders or had been highly sensitive to certain drugs, cosmetics or certain chemicals. 70 subjects were divided into 7 groups on average, and the test subjects were applied with the products of examples 1 to 4 and comparative examples 1 to 2, while the blank control group was not applied with cosmetics, and the test subjects were applied with the corresponding samples 2 times a day in the morning and evening, and the applied parts of the subjects were washed at the same time before the use of the samples and after the 1 st, 2 nd and 4 th weeks of the use of the samples, respectively, to perform the test.

The test was performed using a closed transepidermal water loss rate tester, a common tape-adhered skin lesion model was selected, and the difference in the amount of water loss of the skin was compared between before and after 1,2, and 4 weeks of use of the sample. The experimental results are as follows:

there were significant differences between groups labeled with different letters. And (4) experimental conclusion:

the above experiments show that the amount of each component needs to be controlled within a specific range to achieve the object of the present invention, and for example, it is found from the experimental results of comparative examples 1 to 4 and comparative example 1 that the effect of the present invention is significantly affected by changing the amount of folic acid and hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid.

As can be seen by comparing the skin care effects of examples 1 to 4 with comparative example 2, although vitamin B₁₂The vitamin B group is a substance with better skin care effect with folic acid, but the folic acid can achieve better effect in the invention. Therefore, the correct selection of the types of raw materials is an important prerequisite for achieving better skin care effect.

Further, comparing examples 1-2 and 3-4, it can be seen that the combination of the polypeptide selected from acetyl hexapeptide-8, palmitoyl tripeptide-5 and oligopeptide-1 is more effective, and the best effect can be obtained when the components are used in the formulation of example 1.

EXAMPLES 5-7, COMPARATIVE EXAMPLE 3 essence containing Folic acid

The formulation is given in the following table:

preparation of examples 5 to 7: (1) mixing water, humectant and chelating agent to obtain mixture A, heating and stirring uniformly until dissolving, and cooling; (2) pre-dissolving a thickening agent in water, and adding the thickening agent into the mixture A to obtain a mixture B; (3) and adding the composition and the skin conditioner into the mixture B, and cooling and defoaming to obtain the essence.

Comparative example 3 was prepared as in example 6.

The parameters are shown in the following table:

comparative example 4

The preparation process is different compared to example 5.

The preparation method comprises the following steps: mixing all the components, heating at 80 ℃, cooling to 45 ℃ after dissolving, and cooling and defoaming at 33 ℃.

Effect example 4 moisturizing Effect test

The test method is carried out according to the test method recorded in the light industry standard QB/T4256-. The measurement is carried out 5 times per point, the average value is taken, and the experimental result is as follows:

Effect example 5 anti-aging test

The test subjects were divided into 6 groups on average, and the products of examples 5 to 7 and comparative examples 3 to 4 were applied to the test subjects, and the products of blank control group were not applied with cosmetics, and the corresponding samples were applied 2 times a day in the morning and evening, and after 4 weeks of continuous use, the applied parts of the test subjects were washed at the same time, and the skin texture of the applied parts was measured using a MicroSkinII multifunctional skin mirror image analysis system. 5 measurements were made per spot, and the results were averaged as follows:

	roughness of skin texture
		Blank group	12.18±0.92a
Example 5	3.85±0.62d
		Example 6	5.02±0.58b
Example 7	4.62±0.56c
		Comparative example 3	11.26±0.78a
Comparative example 4	11.84±0.86a

Meanwhile, the skin elasticity value of the tested area and the skin elasticity value of the blank control area are measured by using a skin elasticity tester 5 times per point, an average value is taken, and the relative change rate of elasticity is calculated according to the following formula.

The relative rate of change in elasticity (test zone elasticity-blank zone elasticity)/blank zone elasticity test results are as follows:

effect example 6 repair and enhancement of skin Barrier

Study subjects: 60 qualified healthy volunteer subjects, aged 20-50 years, excluded those who were pregnant or lactating, had skin disorders or had been highly sensitive to certain drugs, cosmetics or certain chemicals. The test subjects were divided into 6 groups on average, and the test subjects were applied with the products of examples 5 to 7 and comparative examples 3 to 4, while the blank control group was not applied with the cosmetics, and the test subjects were applied with the corresponding samples 2 times a day in the morning and evening, and the applied parts of the test subjects were washed at the same time before the application of the samples and after the 1 st, 2 nd and 4 th weeks from the application of the samples, respectively, to perform the test.

The test was performed using a closed transepidermal water loss rate tester, and a common tape-adhered skin lesion model was selected to compare the difference in the amount of water loss of the skin before and after 1,2, and 4 weeks of use of the sample. The experimental results are as follows:

And (4) experimental conclusion:

it can be seen from comparative examples 5-7 and comparative example 3 that the essence of the present invention can achieve a better skin care effect, and further, from comparative examples 5-7, the effect of the present invention can be improved by adding the thickener having a specific component and ratio, and the essence prepared according to example 5 has the best effect.

It can be seen from comparison of examples 5-7 and comparative example 4 that the active ingredients of the obtained essence have high activity, and the effects of moisturizing, resisting wrinkles, repairing skin and brightening skin color are good by controlling the conditions such as the addition sequence, temperature and the like in the preparation process.

The technical means disclosed by the scheme of the invention are not limited to the technical means disclosed above, and the technical means also comprises the technical scheme formed by any combination of the technical features. While the foregoing is directed to embodiments of the present invention, it will be appreciated by those skilled in the art that various changes and modifications may be made without departing from the principles of the invention, and it is intended to claim all such modifications and alterations as fall within the true scope of the invention.

Claims

1. A skin care composition containing folic acid is characterized by comprising the following components in parts by weight: 0.01-1 part of folic acid and/or derivatives thereof, 0.2-0.5 part of hyaluronic acid and/or derivatives thereof, 0.05-0.5 part of hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid and/or derivatives thereof, 0.01-1 part of active polypeptide and 30.05-1 part of ceramide;

the active polypeptide is a mixture of acetyl hexapeptide-8, oligopeptide-1 and palmitoyl tripeptide-5, and the mass ratio of the acetyl hexapeptide-8 to the palmitoyl tripeptide-5 to the oligopeptide-1 is 4:1: 5;

the hyaluronic acid and/or the derivative thereof is selected from a mixture of sodium hyaluronate and sodium acetylated hyaluronate, and the mass ratio of the hyaluronic acid and/or the derivative thereof is 0.15: 0.05.

2. The composition according to claim 1, characterized by consisting of, in parts by weight: 0.01 part of folic acid and/or derivatives thereof, 0.01 part of active polypeptide, 0.2 part of hyaluronic acid and/or derivatives thereof, 0.05 part of hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid and/or derivatives thereof and 30.05 parts of ceramide.

3. The essence containing folic acid is characterized by comprising the following components: a skin care composition, moisturizer, thickener, chelating agent, skin conditioner and water according to any of claims 1-2;

the preparation method of the essence comprises the following steps:

(1) mixing water, humectant and chelating agent to obtain a mixture A;

(3) adding the composition and the skin conditioner into the mixture B, and cooling and defoaming to obtain essence;

step (1), heating to 75-85 ℃ after mixing, and uniformly stirring until the mixture is dissolved; cooling to 40-50 deg.C after dissolving; and (3) cooling and defoaming at the temperature of 30-35 ℃.

4. The essence of claim 3, which comprises the following components by weight: 0.023-4% of the skin care composition of any one of claims 1-2, 1.7-18.65% of the moisturizer, 0-4.2% of the thickener, 0.01-0.08% of the chelating agent, 0-10% of the skin conditioner, and the balance of water.

5. The essence of claim 3, wherein the humectant is one or more of glycerin, betaine, diglycerin, butylene glycol, 1, 2-hexanediol, 1, 3-propanediol, methyl propanediol, caprylyl glycol, 1, 2-pentanediol, glyceryl polyether-26; the thickening agent is one or more of acrylic acid (ester)/C10-30 alkanol acrylate cross-linked polymer, carbomer, cellulose gum, xanthan gum, acrylic acid (ester) copolymer sodium, sodium polyacrylate and aluminum magnesium silicate; the chelating agent is one or more of EDTA disodium salt, EDTA trisodium salt and EDTA tetrasodium salt; the skin conditioner is one or more of panthenol, nicotinamide, diphenyl polydimethylsiloxane, glycerol tri (ethyl hexanoate) ester, polyglycerol-10 myristate, octyl dodecanol polyether-16, p-hydroxyacetophenone, arginine, lotus flower extract, phyllostachys pubescens extract, roselle flower extract, lily flower extract and hydrolyzed collagen.

6. The essence of claim 3, wherein the humectant is one or more of glycerin, betaine, methyl propylene glycol, 1, 2-hexanediol, 1, 2-pentanediol, caprylyl glycol, butylene glycol; the thickening agent is one or more of acrylic acid (ester)/C10-30 alkanol acrylate cross-linked polymer, cellulose gum and carbomer; the chelating agent is EDTA disodium salt.

7. The method for preparing the essence of any one of claims 3 to 6, characterized by comprising the following steps:

(1) mixing water, humectant and chelating agent to obtain a mixture A;

(2) pre-dissolving a thickening agent in water, and adding the pre-dissolved thickening agent into the mixture A to obtain a mixture B;

8. The production method according to claim 7, wherein in the step (1), the temperature is raised to 80 ℃ after the mixing.

9. The method according to claim 7, wherein in the step (1), the temperature is decreased to 45 ℃ after the dissolution.

10. The production method according to claim 7, wherein in the step (3), the cooling defoaming temperature is 30 ℃.

11. Use of the composition according to any one of claims 1-2, the essence according to any one of claims 3-6, or the essence obtained by the preparation method according to any one of claims 7-10 in the preparation of skin care products.