CN112315882A - Soothing, repairing and moisturizing cream and preparation method thereof - Google Patents

Abstract

The invention discloses a soothing, repairing and moisturizing cream and a preparation method thereof, the cream is mainly prepared by compounding bisabolol, 4-tert-butylcyclohexanol, plant soothing components, a skin conditioner and a humectant, and the plant soothing components and the bisabolol have the functions of instant itching relieving and anti-inflammatory; 4-tert-butyl cyclohexanol can relieve burning sensation and stabbing pain, and skin conditioner can repair skin; the moisturizer has moisturizing and moistening effects, and can soften skin and lock skin moisture. The cream is mild, non-irritating, safe, free of toxic and side effects, can effectively preserve moisture, repair red skin and repair skin, and is suitable for people with sensitive and sensitive skin.

Description

Soothing, repairing and moisturizing cream and preparation method thereof

Technical Field

The invention relates to the technical field of cosmetics, and particularly relates to a soothing, repairing and moisturizing cream and a preparation method thereof.

Background

With the increasing use of cosmetics and other chemicals, environmental pollution, the pace of social life is accelerated, pressure is increased, and the problems of pollen or food containing sensitizers become more and more serious, the generation of sensitive skin tends to increase continuously. In addition, external irritation such as improper use of skin care products of some people often causes skin allergy.

Common skin allergic reactions are manifested by dry, desquamation, redness, and easily producing itching, burning, stinging, tightness, etc. Sensitive skin is not a skin disorder in the strict sense but is considered to be a highly sensitive skin condition in which the skin is subject to discomfort from various physicochemical factors, thereby directly affecting the quality of life of people. Sensitive skin is generally considered to be the result of the combined action of internal and external factors, and the induction factors are complex and diverse.

At present, the instant relieving component for skin problems such as allergy is mainly a corticoid drug which relieves anaphylaxis by inhibiting the immune response of human body, but the use of the corticoid drug not only inhibits the abnormal immune response causing anaphylaxis, but also inhibits the normal immune response and reduces the resistance of skin cells, thereby inducing adverse reactions such as non-allergic dermatitis, skin tumor, melanin deposition, abnormal skin growth and the like, and if the corticoid drug is used for a long time, the corticosteroid drug also generates drug dependence.

Therefore, the development of a soothing, repairing and moisturizing cream which can relieve itching, red swelling and fever caused by allergy, relieve irritation, has a certain skin repairing effect, enhances the resistance of skin to allergen, is safe, only contains quasi-components in cosmetics and does not contain prohibited components of cosmetics, and achieves the functions of improving skin allergic reaction, enhancing skin barrier and moisturizing is a problem to be solved at present.

Disclosure of Invention

The invention aims to provide a soothing, repairing and moisturizing cream and a preparation method thereof. The face cream is mainly compounded by bisabolol, 4-tert-butyl cyclohexanol, plant soothing components, a skin conditioner and a humectant, wherein the plant soothing components and the bisabolol have the functions of instant itching relieving and anti-inflammatory; 4-tert-butyl cyclohexanol can relieve burning sensation and stabbing pain, and skin conditioner can repair skin; the moisturizer has moisturizing and moistening effects, and can soften skin and lock skin moisture. The cream is mild, non-irritating, safe, free of toxic and side effects, can effectively preserve moisture, repair red skin and repair skin, and is suitable for people with sensitive and sensitive skin.

The invention provides a soothing, repairing and moisturizing cream which is characterized by comprising effective components and an auxiliary agent, wherein the effective components and the mass ratio of the effective components in the cream are as follows: 0.01-0.5% of bisabolol, 0.5-3.0% of 4-tert-butylcyclohexanol, 0.5-8% of plant soothing component, 0.06-20% of skin conditioner and 0.001-10% of humectant.

The plant soothing components comprise the following components in percentage by mass in the cream: 0.1-5% of cactus stem extract, 0.1-5% of sophora flavescens root extract and 0.1-5% of ginger root extract.

The skin conditioner comprises the following components in percentage by mass in the face cream: 30.01-8% of ceramide, 0.01-8% of ceramide 6II, 10.01-10% of ceramide, 0.01-8% of cholesterol, 0.01-8% of phytosphingosine and 0.01-10% of centella asiatica extract.

Further, the mass ratio of the auxiliary agent to the face cream is as follows: 0.5-10% of butanediol, 0.5-10% of glycerol, 0.1-0.3% of carbomer, 0.05-2% of EDTA-2Na, 0.1-8% of emulsifier, 0.1-40% of oil emollient, 0.1-0.3% of tromethamine, 0.4-0.6% of 1, 2-hexanediol, 0.3-0.5% of phenoxyethanol and the balance of water.

Preferably, the emulsifier is selected from two or more of C14-22 alcohol, C12-20 alkyl glucoside, cetearyl olive oleate, sorbitan olive oleate, inulin lauryl carbamate, preferably C14-22 alcohol, C12-20 alkyl glucoside and inulin lauryl carbamate are used together. More preferably, the mass ratio of the emulsifier to the cream is as follows: 0.1-2% of C14-22 alcohol, 0.1-4% of C12-20 alkyl glucoside and 0.1-3% of inulin lauryl carbamate.

Preferably, the oil emollient is selected from two or more of cetearyl alcohol, shea butter, dioctyl carbonate, isononyl isononanoate, caprylic/capric triglyceride, jojoba oil, squalane, dimethicone, cyclopentadimethicone, cyclohexasiloxane, caprylic/capric triglyceride, C10-18 fatty acid triglyceride, preferably cetearyl alcohol, isononyl isononanoate, caprylic/capric triglyceride and dimethicone together, the mass ratio of cetearyl alcohol, isononyl isononanoate, caprylic/capric triglyceride and dimethicone in the cream being: 0.1-4% of cetearyl alcohol, 0.1-10% of isononyl isononanoate, 0.1-10% of caprylic/capric triglyceride and 0.1-10% of polydimethylsiloxane.

Preferably, the humectant at least comprises dimethyl silanol hyaluronic acid ester, and can be selected from one or more of macromolecular sodium hyaluronate (1000kDa-1300kDa), low molecular sodium hyaluronate (200kDa-400kDa), small molecular sodium hyaluronate (<10kDa) and acetylated sodium hyaluronate.

Preferably, the cream comprises the following components in percentage by weight: 2-4% of butanediol, 2-4% of glycerol, 0.1-0.3% of carbomer, 0.05-0.2% of EDTA-2Na, 0.1-2% of C14-22 alcohol, 0.1-4% of C12-20 alkyl glucoside, 0.2-1.0% of inulin lauryl carbamate, 0.5-2% of cetostearyl alcohol, 4-6% of isononyl isononanoate, 3-5% of caprylic/capric triglyceride, 1-3% of polydimethylsiloxane, 0.1-7% of humectant, 0.08-0.25% of bisabolol, 1.0-2.0% of 4-tert-butylcyclohexanol, 1.0-3.5% of cactus stem extract, 1.0-3.5% of radix sophorae flavescentis extract, 0.15-2.5% of ginger root extract, 30.1-7% of ceramide, 0.1-7% of ceramide 6II, 10.1-7% of ceramide, 0.1-7% of cholesterol, 0.1-7% of phytosphingosine extract, 0.1-7% of centella asiatica plant extract, 0.1-1-1.5% of tromethamine extract, 0.4-0.6% of 1, 2-hexanediol, 0.3-0.5% of phenoxyethanol and the balance of water.

Preferably, the humectant comprises the following components in percentage by weight in the cream: 0.1-6% of dimethiconol hyaluronate, 0.001-0.2% of macromolecular sodium hyaluronate (1000kDa-1300kDa), 0.001-0.2% of low molecular sodium hyaluronate (200kDa-400kDa), 0.001-0.5% of small molecular sodium hyaluronate (<10kDa) and 0.001-0.5% of acetylated sodium hyaluronate.

More preferably, the humectant comprises the following components in percentage by weight: 1.0-6% of dimethiconol hyaluronate, 0.05-0.1% of macromolecular sodium hyaluronate (1000kDa-1300kDa), 0.05-0.1% of low molecular sodium hyaluronate (200kDa-400kDa), 0.05-0.3% of small molecular sodium hyaluronate (<10kDa) and 0.05-0.3% of acetylated sodium hyaluronate.

The invention also provides a preparation method of the soothing, repairing and moisturizing cream, which comprises the following steps:

(1) weighing the raw materials according to the weight percentage for later use;

(2) sequentially adding the raw materials of the component A into an oil phase pot, heating to 75-85 ℃, and carrying out heat preservation and stirring until all the raw materials of the component A are completely and uniformly dissolved, wherein the raw materials of the component A comprise: c14-22 alcohol, C12-20 alkyl glucoside, cetearyl alcohol, isononyl isononanoate, caprylic/capric triglyceride, polydimethylsiloxane;

(3) sequentially adding the raw materials of the component B into a water phase pot, heating to 75-85 ℃, preserving heat and stirring until all the raw materials of the component B are completely dissolved uniformly, wherein the raw materials of the component B comprise: water, glycerin, butanediol, EDTA-2Na, macromolecular sodium hyaluronate, low-molecular sodium hyaluronate, small-molecular sodium hyaluronate, inulin lauryl carbamate and carbomer;

(4) transferring the materials in the oil phase pot and the water phase pot into an emulsifying pot in sequence, heating to 75-85 ℃, emulsifying and homogenizing for 5-15min until a uniform emulsified body is formed, and introducing cooling water for cooling;

(5) when the temperature of the emulsifying pot is reduced to 70-80 ℃, adding bisabolol and 4-tert-butylcyclohexanol, and continuing homogenizing for 1-5min, wherein the temperature is reduced to below 40-50 ℃;

(6) adding caulis Opuntiae Dillenii extract, radix Sophorae Flavescentis extract, rhizoma Zingiberis recens extract, ceramide 3, ceramide 6II, ceramide 1, cholesterol, phytosphingosine, herba Centellae extract, acetylated sodium hyaluronate, dimethyl silanol hyaluronate, phenoxyethanol, 1, 2-hexanediol, and tromethamine, stirring for 10-15min to dissolve completely, cooling to room temperature, and discharging.

The invention adopts the cactus stem extract, the sophora flavescens root extract and the ginger root extract to prepare plant soothing components, wherein the main components of the cactus stem extract are flavone, alkaloid, triterpenoid saponin and steroid saponin substances, the cactus is light in taste and cold in nature, and has the effects of clearing heat and removing toxicity, relieving swelling and pain and resisting lipid peroxidation; the main components of the extract of the roots of the lightyellow sophora root are matrine, oxymatrine and the like, the effect is extremely strong anti-inflammatory and anti-allergic effects, the release of allergic mediators can be reduced, the extract is an excellent immunosuppressant, the extract has a good relieving effect on skin pruritus symptoms, the growth and the repair of damaged nerve cells can be promoted, and the activity of subcutaneous capillary blood vessel cells can be recovered; the ginger root extract mainly contains zingerone, gingerol and alpha-curcumene, has the effects of resisting bacteria, diminishing inflammation, repairing red, regulating lipid medium to inhibit COX-2 and PEG-2, and can inhibit histamine release, relieve itching reaction, inhibit inflammatory factor release, relieve pain, enhance body barrier function, and repair capillary vessel and skin injury by matching and cooperating the 3 components.

The stratum corneum is an important component of the human skin barrier, and the corneocytes in the stratum corneum are comparable to the "bricks" of the barrier wall, and the intercellular lipids are comparable to the "mortar" of the barrier wall. The whole healthy horny layer is closely arranged by each brick, and the mortar for building walls tightly connects the horny cells to maintain the function of a skin barrier and ensure that the horny cells are not lost and invaded by the outside. The main components of the mortar are ceramide, fatty acid, cholesterol and the like. The 'mortar' contains a large amount of beneficial components such as ceramide, cholesterol, phospholipid and free fatty acid, wherein the beneficial components comprise 40-50% of ceramide, 20-25% of cholesterol and 15-25% of free fatty acid, and the beneficial components are filled in intercellular lipid.

The invention adopts ceramide 3, ceramide 6II, ceramide 1, cholesterol, phytosphingosine and centella asiatica extract to prepare the skin conditioner. Ceramide is used as main component of intercellular lipid of stratum corneum, and has effects of maintaining skin barrier, keeping moisture, resisting aging, whitening skin and treating diseases. Ceramide 1 mainly has the function of repairing sebaceous membranes, can improve the barrier function of the surface layer of skin, reduces the loss of water and finally achieves the effect of moisturizing. The ceramide 3 has similar structure with substances constituting horny layer of skin, can quickly permeate into skin, helps to renew natural protective layer of skin, promotes balance of natural hydration, combines with water in horny layer to form a net structure, and retains water. Can maintain the moisture retention of skin, repair dry and damaged skin, and help to renew natural skin protective layer. The ceramide 6II can improve the sebaceous membrane and inhibit the secretion of active sebaceous glands, normalize the natural skin peeling process through skin scale peeling, balance the water and oil of the skin, enhance the self-protection function of the skin and be similar to the ceramide 1, and is more suitable for the young skin which is greasy and has requirements. Can help the stratum corneum of the skin to metabolize rapidly, so that the skin becomes smoother. Cholesterol, also known as cholesterol, has the functions of smoothing and moisturizing. Phytosphingosine is a precursor of phospholipids, is relatively similar to skin lipids, and is an important formula for moisturizing moisture and maintaining barrier function. With the aging and the aging period, the phytosphingosine in the skin of human body is gradually reduced, which causes the skin to be dry and rough, and the external phytosphingosine can effectively keep the skin soft and moist and has the function of protecting the cortex. The centella asiatica extract contains asiaticoside, asiatic acid, madecassic acid and madecassoside, improves and repairs the barrier function of skin, promotes the activity of scar fibroblast and inhibits glucuronidase.

The 6 components are matched for use, so that the damaged barrier can be repaired, the establishment of a skin lipid barrier is promoted, the skin barrier is enhanced, the invasion of external harmful substances is prevented, the water-locking and moisture-preserving functions of the skin are enhanced, and the anaphylactic reaction of the skin to PM2.5, pollen, pollutants, preservatives, essence and the like is reduced.

The moisturizer is prepared from dimethyl silanol hyaluronic acid ester, macromolecular sodium hyaluronate, low-molecular sodium hyaluronate, small-molecular sodium hyaluronate and acetylated sodium hyaluronate, and each component plays different roles. The dimethiconol hyaluronate has the functions of repairing cells and promoting collagen synthesis; the macromolecular sodium hyaluronate can form a macromolecular breathable protective film on the surface of skin to isolate external harmful substances; the low molecular sodium hyaluronate can soften the horny layer of the skin and promote the absorption of effective substances; the small molecule sodium hyaluronate can permeate into the dermis of the skin, promote the synthesis of hyaluronic acid of the skin and play a role in antioxidation; the acetylated sodium hyaluronate can improve the utilization rate of skin, improve the activity of thioredoxin reductase, reduce the generation of ROS, inhibit the activity of collagen hydrolase and reduce the degradation of collagen. The 5 hyaluronic acid components are matched and have synergistic effect, so that three-dimensional moisture preservation can be better realized, the effects of moisture preservation, water locking and water replenishing can be achieved, and the functions of delaying senescence and resisting oxidation can be achieved at the same time.

Compared with the prior art, the invention has the beneficial effects that:

the soothing, repairing and moisturizing cream provided by the invention is safe and non-irritant, and is suitable for people with sensitive skin; the plant soothing components (caulis Opuntiae Dillenii extract, radix Sophorae Flavescentis extract, and rhizoma Zingiberis recens extract) and bisabolol in the formula can inhibit histamine release, reduce generation of inflammatory interleukin, and has immediate antipruritic and antiinflammatory effects; 4-tert-butyl cyclohexanol in the formula acts on TRPV1 receptor, so that burning sensation and stabbing pain sensation can be relieved immediately; the centella asiatica extract as a skin conditioner in the formula can repair cells, promote wound healing and inhibit scar formation; ceramide 3, ceramide 6II, ceramide 1, cholesterol and phytosphingosine can promote the repair of the skin cutin barrier and enhance the skin barrier; the moisturizer in the formula, especially the dimethyl silanol hyaluronic acid ester, has remarkable moisturizing and moistening effects, can soften the skin, lock the skin moisture, moisten the skin and accelerate cell proliferation and metabolism; the multi-effect component compounding enables the face cream to have good effects of relieving, repairing, moisturizing and moistening.

Drawings

FIG. 1 is a graph of the results of the test using the product of example 1 in a subject, wherein Panel A is a graph of the results of the test using the product of example 1 in a subject No. 008; panel B is a graph of the results of testing subject No. 016 with the product of example 1;

FIG. 2 is a graph of the results of testing a subject with the comparative example 1 product, where Panel A is a graph of the results of testing a subject # 006 with the example 1 product; panel B is a graph of the results of testing on subject 012 with the product of example 1;

FIG. 3 is a graph showing the tendency of the skin to undergo transepidermal water loss (test result of example 1). The significance labeling method comprises the following steps: "+" indicates significant difference, p is more than or equal to 0.01 and less than 0.05, "+" indicates significant difference, p is more than or equal to 0.001 and less than 0.01; "x" indicates significant difference, p < 0.001;

fig. 4 is a graph showing the tendency of the skin to change in transepidermal water loss (test result of comparative example 3). The significance labeling method comprises the following steps: "+" indicates significant difference, p is more than or equal to 0.01 and less than 0.05, "+" indicates significant difference, p is more than or equal to 0.001 and less than 0.01; "x" indicates significant difference, p < 0.001;

fig. 5 is a graph showing the trend of change in the moisture content of the stratum corneum of the skin (test result of example 1). The significance labeling method comprises the following steps: "+" indicates significant difference, p is more than or equal to 0.01 and less than 0.05, "+" indicates significant difference, p is more than or equal to 0.001 and less than 0.01.

Detailed Description

The following further describes the embodiments of the present invention. It should be noted that the description of the embodiments is provided to help understanding of the present invention, but the present invention is not limited thereto. In addition, the technical features involved in the embodiments of the present invention described below may be combined with each other as long as they do not conflict with each other.

The cactus stem extract is mainly extracted by methanol and ultrasonic-assisted extraction method, and contains flavonoids of cactus of 3.0-6.0%; the extract of the root of Sophora flavescens Aiton is extracted by using 60% ethanol as a solvent, and the content of the matrine as a main component is 5.0-8.0%; the ginger root extract is mainly extracted by an ethanol extraction method, and contains 2.0-3.0% of zingerone as a main component; the centella asiatica extract is prepared by extracting asiaticoside with enzyme method, and the content is 0.01-0.05%.

The following is a detailed description of the practice of the invention.

Example 1

The components and the weight ratio are as follows: 3.0% of butylene glycol, 3.0% of glycerol, 0.2% of carbomer, 0.1% of EDTA-2Na, 1% of C14-22 alcohol, 2.0% of C12-20 alkyl glucoside, 0.5% of inulin lauryl carbamate, 1.0% of cetostearyl alcohol, 5.0% of isononyl isononanoate, 4.0% of caprylic/capric triglyceride, 2.0% of polydimethylsiloxane, 0.2% of bisabolol, 1.5% of 4-tert-butylcyclohexanol, 2.0% of cactus stem extract, 2.0% of radix sophorae flavescentis extract, 0.2% of ginger root extract, 35% of ceramide, 6II 5% of ceramide, 15% of cholesterol, 5% of phytosphingosine, 3% of centella asiatica extract, 0.2% of trometamol, 0.5% of 1, 2-hexanediol, 0.4% of phenoxyethanol, 2% of dimethyalol hyaluronate, 0.05% of sodium hyaluronate (1000kDa-1300kDa), 0.1% of low molecular sodium hyaluronate (200kDa-400kDa), 0.2% of small molecular sodium hyaluronate (<10kDa) and 0.2% of acetylated sodium hyaluronate, and the balance of water.

The embodiment provides a preparation method of a soothing, repairing and moisturizing cream, which comprises the following steps:

(1) weighing the raw materials according to the weight percentage for later use;

(2) sequentially adding the raw materials of the component A into an oil phase pot, heating to 80 +/-1 ℃, preserving heat and stirring until all the raw materials of the component A are completely and uniformly dissolved, wherein the raw materials of the component A comprise: c14-22 alcohol, C12-20 alkyl glucoside, cetearyl alcohol, isononyl isononanoate, caprylic/capric triglyceride, polydimethylsiloxane;

(3) sequentially adding the raw materials of the component B into a water phase pot, heating to 80 +/-1 ℃, preserving heat and stirring until all the raw materials of the component B are completely and uniformly dissolved, wherein the raw materials of the component B comprise: water, glycerin, butanediol, EDTA-2Na, macromolecular sodium hyaluronate, low-molecular sodium hyaluronate, small-molecular sodium hyaluronate, inulin lauryl carbamate and carbomer;

(4) transferring the materials in the oil phase pot and the water phase pot into an emulsifying pot in sequence, heating to 80 + -1 deg.C, emulsifying and homogenizing for 5-15min until uniform emulsified body is formed, and cooling with cooling water;

(5) cooling the emulsifying pot to 75 + -1 deg.C, adding bisabolol and 4-tert-butylcyclohexanol, homogenizing for 1-5min, and cooling to 45 + -1 deg.C;

(6) adding caulis Opuntiae Dillenii extract, radix Sophorae Flavescentis extract, rhizoma Zingiberis recens extract, ceramide 3, ceramide 6II, ceramide 1, cholesterol, phytosphingosine, herba Centellae extract, acetylated sodium hyaluronate, dimethyl silanol hyaluronate, phenoxyethanol, tromethamine, and 1, 2-hexanediol, stirring for 10-15min to dissolve completely, cooling to room temperature, and discharging.

Comparative example 1

To further illustrate the beneficial effects of the present invention, this comparative example prepared a cream product using a similar preparation method as example 1, and differed from example 1 only in that: the comparative example did not use the cactus stem extract, the sophora flavescens root extract, and the ginger root extract.

Comparative example 2

To further illustrate the beneficial effects of the present invention, this comparative example prepared a cream product using a similar preparation method as example 1, and differed from example 1 only in that: this comparative example did not use bisabolol and 4-tert-butylcyclohexanol.

Comparative example 3

To further illustrate the beneficial effects of the present invention, this comparative example prepared a cream product using a similar preparation method as example 1, and differed from example 1 only in that: the comparative example did not use ceramide 3, ceramide 6II, ceramide 1, cholesterol, phytosphingosine, centella asiatica extract, and dimethiconol hyaluronate.

The effects of the embodiments of the present invention are described below with reference to experimental data.

Firstly, stability testing:

the appearance and stability of the products obtained in example 1 and comparative examples 1 to 3 were tested, wherein the stability test was: the products obtained in the above example 1 and comparative examples 1 to 3 were stored at high temperature (50 ℃), high temperature (45 ℃) and low temperature (-18 ℃) for 24 hours, and then returned to room temperature, and the cream morphology was observed; the test results are shown in table 1. The results show that the appearance of the embodiment 1 and the comparative examples 1 to 3 is fine paste and good in stability.

Table 1 appearance and stability test results

Second, efficacy test

To further illustrate the beneficial effects of the present invention, a test method for the efficacy of the soothing, repairing and moisturizing cream of the present invention is provided, as follows.

1. Referring to SN/T2329-2009 eye irritation/chick embryo chorioallantoic membrane test for cosmetics, eye irritation test, namely safety test, is carried out on the product;

2. selecting 30 female volunteers, and performing human skin spot test on the product according to technical specifications for cosmetic safety (2015 edition);

3. 60 female volunteers were selected and the soothing effect of the cosmetic product was evaluated by measuring the red zone changes in human skin using a VISIA skin detector (CanField, usa).

4. 60 female volunteers were selected, and the skin transepidermal water loss TEWL was measured by a VapoMeter percutaneous water loss measuring instrument (Delfin corporation, finland) to evaluate the barrier repair function of the cosmetic product.

5. 30 female volunteers were selected, and the moisture content of the stratum corneum of the skin was measured using a Corneometer CM825 (CK company, germany) skin moisture tester to evaluate the moisturizing function of the cosmetic product.

The specific test procedure is as follows.

Test example 1:

the product is subjected to eye irritation test, namely safety test, by referring to SN/T2329-2009 cosmetic eye irritation/chick embryo chorioallantoic membrane test.

The experimental method comprises the following steps: fertilized chicken embryos within 7 days of age are adopted and incubated for 9 days in an incubator at 37.6 +/-0.5 ℃ and 50-70% of humidity.

Preparation of CAM: performing egg candling, marking the air chamber position on the surface of the eggshell, and peeling off the marked eggshell part by using tweezers to expose white eggshell membrane, wherein the operation should be careful not to damage the integrity of the eggshell membrane. 0.5mL of 0.9% NaCl solution is added dropwise to fully wet the egg membrane, the surface liquid is slightly sucked dry by a paper towel, and the intima is carefully removed by forceps to ensure that the vascular membrane is not damaged.

0.3ml of the clear test substance was directly applied dropwise to the CAM surface, the CAM response was observed and the time to onset of each toxic effect was recorded within 5min of action. Reaction end-point method: 0.3mL of non-transparent test substance is uniformly dripped or smeared on the surface of the CAM, after the action for 3min, 0.9% NaCl solution is used for washing the test substance, and the change degree of each toxic effect of the CAM is observed.

Stimulation score method (irritation score IS): the test using the reaction time method, and the formula to calculate the stimulation score (IS), the results retain the two digits after the decimal point. The test subjects were classified according to table 2 based on the calculated IS values.

Irritation score IS ═ (301-SecH) × 5/300+ (301-SecL) × 7/300+ (301-SecC) × 9/300

In the formula: sec H (bleeding time) — the average time in seconds(s) at which bleeding begins to occur observed on the CAM membrane;

sec L (vascular lysis time) — the average time in seconds(s) at which vascular lysis is observed to begin on the CAM membrane;

sec C (clotting time)) -the average time in seconds(s) at which clotting is observed to begin on the CAM membrane.

TABLE 2 reaction time results determination criteria

Stimulation scoring	IS<1	1≤IS<5	5≤IS<9	IS≥10
					Irritation classification	Has no irritation	Light irritation	Moderate irritation	Strong irritation/corrosion

End point score method (end point score ES): for experiments performed using the reaction endpoint method, the Endpoint Score (ES) should be calculated, and the two decimal places are retained as a result. Each chick embryo score is the sum of the extent of bleeding, clotting and vascular thawing observed in each chick embryo, and ES is the mathematical sum of the scores of 6 chick embryos. The subjects were classified for eye irritation according to ES values as shown in Table 3.

TABLE 3 determination of reaction endpoint method results

Stimulation scoring	ES≤12	12<ES<16	ES≥16
				Irritation classification	Non/light irritability	Moderate irritation	Strong irritation/corrosion

The test results are shown in Table 4, and example 1 and comparative examples 1,2 and 3 are non-irritating.

TABLE 4 statistical table of irritation test results

Test example 2:

30 female volunteers were selected and tested in the human skin patch test in accordance with technical specifications for cosmetic safety (2015) for in-vitro test.

The grading standards of skin reaction in the patch test of human skin are shown in Table 5.

TABLE 5 grading Standard of skin reactions

The test results are shown in Table 6, and example 1 and comparative example 3 both had no skin irritation, and comparative examples 1 and 2 had weak positive reactions.

TABLE 6 test result rating

Product(s)	Grade of rating
		Example 1	0
Comparative example 1	2
		Comparative example 2	2
Comparative example 3	0

60 capsaicin-sensitive volunteers were selected and applied with 31.6ppm capsaicin emulsion on the inner side of the wrists. The product of example 1 was applied to the left wrist, the product of comparative examples 1,2 and 3 was applied to the right wrist (20 persons applied to the products of example 1 and comparative example 1, 20 persons applied to the products of example 1 and comparative example 2, and 20 persons applied to the products of example 1 and comparative example 3), and the inner side of the wrist was tested for burning, itching and tingling after application for 0min, 5min, 10min and 30min, respectively, 0 being no sensation, 1 being uncertain and almost no sensation, 2 being light sensation, 3 being moderate sensation and 4 being strong sensation. The test results are shown in Table 7.

TABLE 7 skin response to prickling and burning ratings

The results show that: the stinging burning sensation was reduced to a mild sensation at 3min in the volunteer using the product of example 1, but was sustained in the volunteer using the product of comparative example 2. The results prove that: the product containing bisabolol and 4-tert-butylcyclohexanol can relieve facial stabbing pain and itching and burning sensation.

Test example 3:

60 female volunteers were selected and the soothing effect of the cosmetic product was evaluated by measuring the red zone changes in human skin using a VISIA instrument (CanField, usa).

Experimental method, VISIA image capture: face front, left 45 degrees, right 45 degrees. The products were selected as example 1 and comparative example 1, and 30 volunteers were tested for each product. The test product method used by the tester is as follows:

1. the composition is administered for 28 days, 1 time each in the morning and evening, and 2 times per day.

2. After cleaning the face in the morning and evening, taking a proper amount of the product, uniformly coating the product on the skin of the face, and gently massaging and patting until the product is completely absorbed by the skin;

3. throughout the test period, no other skin care product except the provided test sample can be used in the test area (face).

The results are shown in FIG. 1, and the red areas of the face are significantly improved in volunteers using the product of example 1. The improvement in the red zone of the face was not evident with the volunteers of the product in comparative example 1, see fig. 2. The results prove that the composition containing the cactus stem extract, the sophora flavescens root extract and the ginger root extract has very good effect on relieving skin inflammatory reaction.

Test example 4:

60 female volunteers were selected and evaluated for the barrier repair function of the cosmetic product by measuring the transepidermal water loss TEWL of the skin using a VapoMeter instrument (Delfin corporation, finland).

Experimental method, the right cheek of the face is tested by using an instrument probe. The products were selected as example 1 and comparative example 3, and 30 volunteers were tested for each product. The test product method used by the tester is as follows:

1. the composition is administered for 28 days, 1 time each in the morning and evening, and 2 times per day.

2. After cleaning the face in the morning and evening, taking a proper amount of the product, uniformly coating the product on the skin of the face, and gently massaging and patting until the product is completely absorbed by the skin;

3. throughout the test period, no other skin care product except the provided test sample can be used in the test area (face).

The results of the experiment are shown in fig. 3, and the volunteers using the product of example 1 have continuously reduced transdermal water loss, which proves that the barrier function of the skin of the volunteers is well repaired. The volunteers using the product of comparative example 3 showed little change in the amount of transdermal water loss, see fig. 4. The results show that skin care ingredients containing ceramide 3, ceramide 6II, ceramide 1, cholesterol, phytosphingosine, centella asiatica extract and dimethiconol hyaluronate have very good effects on repairing skin barrier.

Test example 5:

30 female volunteers were selected, and the moisture content of the stratum corneum was measured by Corneometer CM825 (CK company, germany) to evaluate the moisturizing function of the cosmetic product.

The experimental method is to test the left cheek of the face by using an instrument probe. The product was selected as example 1 and 30 volunteers were tested. The test product method used by the tester is as follows:

1. the preparation is administered for 28 days, 1 time in the morning and evening, and 2 times per day;

2. after cleaning the face in the morning and evening, taking a proper amount of the product, uniformly coating the product on the skin of the face, and gently massaging and patting until the product is completely absorbed by the skin;

3. throughout the test period, no other skin care product except the provided test sample can be used in the test area (face).

The experimental result is shown in figure 5, and the water content of the skin stratum corneum of the volunteers using the product in the example 1 is continuously increased, so that the product is proved to have a good moisturizing function.

The embodiments of the present invention have been described in detail, but the present invention is not limited to the described embodiments. It will be apparent to those skilled in the art that various changes, modifications, substitutions and alterations can be made in these embodiments without departing from the principles and spirit of the invention, and the scope of protection is still within the scope of the invention.

Claims (10)

1. A soothing, repairing and moisturizing cream is characterized by comprising effective components and an auxiliary agent, wherein the effective components and the mass ratio of the effective components in the cream are as follows: 0.01-0.5% of bisabolol, 0.5-3.0% of 4-tert-butylcyclohexanol, 0.5-8% of plant soothing component, 0.06-20% of skin conditioner and 0.001-10% of humectant;

the plant soothing components comprise the following components in percentage by mass in the cream: 0.1-5% of cactus stem extract, 0.1-5% of sophora flavescens root extract and 0.1-5% of ginger root extract;

the skin conditioner comprises the following components in percentage by mass in the face cream: 30.01-8% of ceramide, 0.01-8% of ceramide 6II, 10.01-10% of ceramide, 0.01-8% of cholesterol, 0.01-8% of phytosphingosine and 0.01-10% of centella asiatica extract.

2. A soothing, repairing and moisturizing cream as claimed in claim 1, wherein the mass ratio of the auxiliary agent to the cream is: 0.5-10% of butanediol, 0.5-10% of glycerol, 0.1-0.3% of carbomer, 0.05-2% of EDTA-2Na, 0.1-8% of emulsifier, 0.1-40% of oil emollient, 0.1-0.3% of tromethamine, 0.4-0.6% of 1, 2-hexanediol, 0.3-0.5% of phenoxyethanol and the balance of water.

3. A soothing, repairing and moisturizing cream as claimed in claim 2, wherein said emulsifier is selected from two or more of C14-22 alcohol, C12-20 alkyl glucoside, cetearyl olive oleate, sorbitan olive oleate, inulin lauryl carbamate.

4. A soothing, repairing and moisturizing cream as claimed in claim 3, wherein the emulsifier comprises the following components in the cream by mass: 0.1-2% of C14-22 alcohol, 0.1-4% of C12-20 alkyl glucoside and 0.1-3% of inulin lauryl carbamate.

5. A soothing, repairing and moisturizing cream as claimed in claim 2, wherein said oil emollient is selected from two or more of cetostearyl alcohol, shea butter, dioctyl carbonate, isononyl isononanoate, caprylic/capric triglyceride, jojoba oil, squalane, dimethicone, cyclopentadimethicone, cyclohexasiloxane, caprylic/capric triglyceride, and C10-18 fatty triglyceride.

6. A soothing, repairing and moisturizing cream as claimed in claim 5, wherein the oil emollient comprises the following components in the cream by weight: 0.1-4% of cetearyl alcohol, 0.1-10% of isononyl isononanoate, 0.1-10% of caprylic/capric triglyceride and 0.1-10% of polydimethylsiloxane.

7. A soothing repairing moisturizing cream as claimed in claim 1 wherein said moisturizer comprises dimethiconol hyaluronate.

8. A soothing, repairing and moisturizing cream as claimed in any one of claims 1 to 7, wherein the cream comprises the following components in parts by weight: 2-4% of butanediol, 2-4% of glycerol, 0.1-0.3% of carbomer, 0.05-0.2% of EDTA-2Na, 0.1-2% of C14-22 alcohol, 0.1-4% of C12-20 alkyl glucoside, 0.2-1.0% of inulin lauryl carbamate, 0.5-2% of cetostearyl alcohol, 4-6% of isononyl isononanoate, 3-5% of caprylic/capric triglyceride, 1-3% of polydimethylsiloxane, 0.1-7% of humectant, 0.08-0.25% of bisabolol, 1.0-2.0% of 4-tert-butylcyclohexanol, 1.0-3.5% of cactus stem extract, 1.0-3.5% of radix sophorae flavescentis extract, 0.15-2.5% of ginger root extract, 30.1-7% of ceramide, 0.1-7% of ceramide 6II, 10.1-7% of ceramide, 0.1-7% of cholesterol, 0.1-7% of phytosphingosine extract, 0.1-7% of centella asiatica plant extract, 0.1-1-1.5% of tromethamine extract, 0.4-0.6% of 1, 2-hexanediol, 0.3-0.5% of phenoxyethanol and the balance of water.

9. A soothing, repairing and moisturizing cream as claimed in claim 8, wherein the moisturizer comprises the following components in weight ratio: 0.1-6% of dimethyl silanol hyaluronic acid ester, 0.001-0.2% of 1000-1300 kDa macromolecular sodium hyaluronate, 0.001-0.2% of 200-400 kDa low molecular sodium hyaluronate, 0.001-0.5% of <10kDa small molecular sodium hyaluronate and 0.001-0.5% of acetylated sodium hyaluronate.

10. A method of preparing a soothing, repairing and moisturizing cream as claimed in claim 9, comprising the steps of:

(1) weighing the raw materials according to the weight percentage for later use;

(2) sequentially adding the raw materials of the component A into an oil phase pot, heating to 75-85 ℃, and carrying out heat preservation and stirring until all the raw materials of the component A are completely and uniformly dissolved, wherein the raw materials of the component A comprise: c14-22 alcohol, C12-20 alkyl glucoside, cetearyl alcohol, isononyl isononanoate, caprylic/capric triglyceride, polydimethylsiloxane;

(3) sequentially adding the raw materials of the component B into a water phase pot, heating to 75-85 ℃, preserving heat and stirring until all the raw materials of the component B are completely dissolved uniformly, wherein the raw materials of the component B comprise: water, glycerin, butanediol, EDTA-2Na, macromolecular sodium hyaluronate, low-molecular sodium hyaluronate, small-molecular sodium hyaluronate, inulin lauryl carbamate and carbomer;

(4) transferring the materials in the oil phase pot and the water phase pot into an emulsifying pot in sequence, heating to 75-85 ℃, emulsifying and homogenizing for 5-15min until a uniform emulsified body is formed, and introducing cooling water for cooling;

(5) when the temperature of the emulsifying pot is reduced to 70-80 ℃, adding bisabolol and 4-tert-butylcyclohexanol, and continuing homogenizing for 1-5min, wherein the temperature is reduced to below 40-50 ℃;

(6) adding caulis Opuntiae Dillenii extract, radix Sophorae Flavescentis extract, rhizoma Zingiberis recens extract, ceramide 3, ceramide 6II, ceramide 1, cholesterol, phytosphingosine, herba Centellae extract, acetylated sodium hyaluronate, dimethyl silanol hyaluronate, phenoxyethanol, 1, 2-hexanediol, and tromethamine, stirring for 10-15min to dissolve completely, cooling to room temperature, and discharging.

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