CN111529444A - Composition with skin barrier repair function and preparation method and application thereof - Google Patents

Composition with skin barrier repair function and preparation method and application thereof Download PDF

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CN111529444A
CN111529444A CN202010450935.5A CN202010450935A CN111529444A CN 111529444 A CN111529444 A CN 111529444A CN 202010450935 A CN202010450935 A CN 202010450935A CN 111529444 A CN111529444 A CN 111529444A
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skin
composition
skin barrier
repair function
barrier repair
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葛远幸
郭苗
周正
杨帆
张金龙
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Hubei Maishite Biotechnology Co Ltd
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Hubei Maishite Biotechnology Co Ltd
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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9783Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
    • A61K8/9789Magnoliopsida [dicotyledons]
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/55Phosphorus compounds
    • A61K8/553Phospholipids, e.g. lecithin
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/60Sugars; Derivatives thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/63Steroids; Derivatives thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/68Sphingolipids, e.g. ceramides, cerebrosides, gangliosides
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73Polysaccharides
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/85Polyesters
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/004Aftersun preparations
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/08Anti-ageing preparations

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Abstract

The invention discloses a composition with a skin barrier repairing function, and a preparation method and application thereof. The composition comprises the following raw materials in percentage by mass: 0.1-3% of hydrogenated lecithin, 0.1-5% of phytosterol/capryl dodecanol lauroyl glutamate, 0.1-5% of cynara scolymus leaf extract, 0.1-5% of saccharide isomer, 0.1-10% of ceramide composition, 0.05-0.3% of polyquaternium-510.05-5%, 0.1-2.0% of xanthan gum, and water added to 100%. The composition can relieve various external irritation and injury, rapidly recover water content of damaged and dry skin, and repair barrier repair function of skin cuticle. The barrier effect composition and the essence thereof provided by the invention have excellent effects in the aspects of resisting photoaging, inhibiting epidermis moisture loss, keeping skin moisture content, repairing skin barrier function, improving skin pore size, improving inflammatory skin, repairing damaged skin and the like.

Description

Composition with skin barrier repair function and preparation method and application thereof
Technical Field
The invention relates to a skin repair composition, belongs to the technical field of cosmetics, and particularly relates to a composition with a skin barrier repair function, and a preparation method and application thereof.
Background
With the recent change of climate environment, the influence of cold, sand wind, heat, automobile exhaust, toxic particles, dust, ultraviolet rays and water quality causes damage to the skin of human body. In addition, along with the accelerated pace of life, anxiety in work and the pressure mood of a human body caused by staying up all night, unhealthy foods such as fondant sweet foods, spicy foods, fried foods and the like of some groups, mask faces under epidemic conditions, mechanical damage to skin, material allergy, contact dermatitis and the like cause the sub-health state of the skin.
Once the barrier function of the skin is compromised, it becomes abnormally sensitive and fragile, and bitter. This poor skin condition is not a case, is common among people, and is not low in proportion.
For such sensitive and fragile skin, some super mild skin care products which are declared to be free of potential stimuli such as essence, preservative, mineral oil, alcohol, pigment and the like are choices which are beyond the reach of the market, or no choice is made.
However, although such products can be used, the problems of their skins cannot be solved at the root, and the problems that exist originally remain.
Therefore, it is important to develop a composition or cosmetic that can solve the skin problems from the root, which is a technical problem that those skilled in the art need to solve.
Disclosure of Invention
In order to solve the widely existing problem of sub-healthy skin, the invention aims to provide a composition for repairing the barrier function of the skin and recovering the healthy state of the skin, and the composition achieves the barrier repairing effect of repairing the horny layer of the skin by relieving the skin injury caused by the attachment of external bacteria, dry environment, pollution, ultraviolet rays and various stimulations, and simultaneously rapidly recovering the moisture content of the damaged and dried skin.
Another object of the present invention is to provide a method for preparing the above composition having skin barrier repair function and its use.
In order to achieve the purpose, the invention adopts the following technical scheme:
a composition with a skin barrier repairing function is composed of the following raw materials in percentage by mass:
0.1-3% of hydrogenated lecithin, 0.1-5% of phytosterol/capryl dodecanol lauroyl glutamate, 0.1-5% of cynara scolymus leaf extract, 0.1-5% of saccharide isomer, 0.1-10% of ceramide composition, 0.05-0.3% of polyquaternium-510.05-5%, 0.1-2.0% of xanthan gum, 0.1-2.0% of preservative and 100% of water.
Wherein the hydrogenated lecithin is produced by Nippon day light chemical company;
the phytosterol/octododecanol lauroyl glutamate is produced by Japan monosodium glutamate company;
the artichoke leaf extract is produced by Nippon mono chemical company;
the saccharide isomerate is produced by Dusmann, Netherlands;
the ceramide composition is produced by German winning and creating company; the ceramide compositions of the present invention (comprising ceramide 1, ceramide 3, and ceramide 6) are designed specifically for the absorption of ceramide by the skin.
The polyquaternium-51 is produced by Japan kerosene company.
Preferably, the composition with the skin barrier repair function is prepared from the following raw materials in percentage by mass:
0.2-2% of hydrogenated lecithin, 0.5-2% of phytosterol/caprylyl dodecanol lauroyl glutamate, 1-3% of cynara scolymus leaf extract, 0.2-2% of carbohydrate isomer, 1-5% of ceramide composition and 510.1-2% of polyquaternium.
In addition, the invention also provides a preparation method of the composition for repairing the skin barrier function, which comprises the following steps:
1) weighing hydrogenated lecithin, phytosterol/caprylyl dodecanol lauroyl glutamate, artichoke leaf extract, saccharide isomerate, a ceramide composition, polyquaternium-51, xanthan gum, a preservative and water in a formula ratio;
2) adding xanthan gum into water, dispersing, heating to 75-85 deg.C, adding hydrogenated lecithin, homogenizing for 5-8min, adding phytosterol/capryl dodecanol lauroyl glutamate, and homogenizing for 5-8 min;
3) cooling to below 45 deg.C, adding Cynara scolymus leaf extract, saccharide isomer, ceramide composition, polyquaternium-51 and antiseptic, and stirring to obtain composition with skin barrier repairing function.
In addition, the invention also provides application of the composition with the skin barrier repair function in preparing cosmetics, wherein the composition with the skin barrier repair function accounts for 1-30% of the total amount of a cosmetic formula, and the preferable range is 5-20%.
The cosmetic also comprises conventional auxiliary materials accounting for 70-99% of the total amount of the formula of the cosmetic, and can be prepared into astringent, facial mask, gel, essence, emulsion and cream by matching viscosity regulators, emollients, humectants, chelating agents, skin-feel conditioners, emulsifiers, preservatives, essences and the like according to different skin-feel requirements of skin so as to meet the requirements of ideal dosage forms, skin feel and efficacy.
Further, the viscosity regulator is selected from one or more of xanthan gum, carbomer, acrylic acid (ester)/C10-30 alkanol acrylate cross-linked polymer, hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer or polyacrylic acid (ester) copolymer;
the emollient is selected from one or more of squalane, shea butter, jojoba oil, octyl phytosterol, caprylic/capric triglyceride, and polydimethylsiloxane;
the humectant is selected from one or more of glycerin, 1, 3-butanediol, sodium PCA, sodium hyaluronate, saccharides and polyethylene glycol;
the chelating agent is selected from one or more of disodium EDTA and tetrasodium EDTA;
the skin feeling conditioning agent is selected from one or more of glycerol polyacrylate, polyquaternium-51, beta-glucan, hydrolyzed collagen, hydrolyzed silk, hydroxyethyl cellulose, sclerotium gum, Chondrus crispus and Tremella heteropolysaccharide;
the emulsifier is one or more selected from glyceryl stearate, PEG-100 stearate, steareth-21, PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquistearate, alkyl glycoside, potassium cetyl phosphate, and potassium cetyl phosphate;
the preservative is one or more of p-hydroxyacetophenone, phenoxyethanol, ethylhexyl glycerol, glyceryl caprylate, sodium benzoate, hexanediol, caprylyl glycol, pentanediol, caprylyl hydroxypentanoic acid and chlorphenesin.
The application of the composition with the skin barrier repair function in preparing cosmetics and the evaluation method of the skin moisture content involved in efficacy test are realized by using a 3D facial moisture content color image analysis technology to enable the facial skin moisture content to be visualized so as to visually observe different states of the skin moisture content and the repair effect of each part of the skin.
By means of the technical scheme, the invention has the following advantages and beneficial technical effects:
1) the composition of the present invention restores the barrier repair function of the horny layer of the skin by mitigating various external stimuli and injuries while rapidly restoring the moisture content of damaged and dry skin.
2) The composition disclosed by the invention can effectively inhibit the photoaging process of skin, relieve skin inflammation caused by ultraviolet rays and mechanical stimulation and restore the normal health state of skin.
3) The barrier effect composition and the essence thereof provided by the invention have excellent effects in the aspects of resisting photoaging, inhibiting epidermis moisture loss, keeping skin moisture content, repairing skin barrier function, improving skin pore size, improving inflammatory skin, repairing damaged skin and the like.
Drawings
FIG. 1 is a diagram showing the mechanism of inhibition of NF- κ B expression by Cynara scolymus leaf extract.
FIG. 2 is a graph showing the effect of polyquaternium-51 in enhancing the barrier function of the stratum corneum.
FIG. 3 is a graph showing the effect of an efficacy composition on the inhibition of increased transcription of NF- κ B.
Figure 4 shows a test chart of skin soothing effect of the efficacy compositions.
Figure 5 shows a test plot of efficacy compositions versus skin elasticity.
Figure 6 shows a test plot of the transdermal water loss (TEWL) of the efficacious compositions.
Fig. 7(a) and 7(b) are graphs showing the test method and test result of the degree of facial moisturization, respectively.
Figure 8 shows a graph of the improvement in skin surface roughness for the efficacious composition.
Figure 9 shows a graph of the improvement in pore size on the skin surface for the benefit composition.
Detailed Description
The present invention will be described in more detail below with reference to specific preferred embodiments and examples of effects, but the present invention is not limited to the following examples.
The invention discloses a composition with a skin barrier repairing function, and a preparation method and application thereof. The composition is prepared from the following raw materials in percentage by mass:
0.1-3% of hydrogenated lecithin, 0.1-5% of phytosterol/capryl dodecanol lauroyl glutamate, 0.1-5% of cynara scolymus leaf extract, 0.1-5% of saccharide isomer, 0.1-10% of ceramide composition, 0.05-0.3% of polyquaternium-510.05-5%, 0.1-2.0% of xanthan gum, and water added to 100%.
The source and the effect of the raw material components of the invention are explained as follows:
(ii) hydrogenated lecithin
Hydrogenated lecithin is a partial hydrolysate of lecithin, which increases its hydrophilic ability. Can be absorbed by human skin and hair and promote the penetration of other nutrients, and is often used in conditioning cosmetics together with linolenic acid, hyaluronic acid and vitamins, and lecithin has strong emulsifying effect, can stabilize emulsion, and is suitable for preparing gel products.
② phytosterol/capryl dodecanol lauroyl glutamate
Phytosterol/capryl dodecanol lauroyl glutamate is composed of components extracted from plants, similar to cell membrane complex lipid, and has the same 'plate-shaped liquid crystal structure' as ceramide. The composition can maintain the stability of intercellular lipid of keratinocyte, and keep skin moisture.
③ Cynara scolymus leaf extract
The cynara scolymus leaf extract mainly has the effects of relieving allergy and resisting inflammation in cosmetics and skin care products, has a risk coefficient of 1, is safe, can be used safely, has no influence on pregnant women, and has no pox-causing property. The compound has anti-inflammatory property, the activation of NF-kappa B cells is one of the signs of inflammation, and the inhibition of the NF-kappa B cells can prove that the function of skin immune cells is improved; has effects in relieving and eliminating skin allergy due to excessive histamine release, and can be used in antiallergic cosmetics in combination with its antioxidant effect.
Saccharide isomerate
The saccharide isomerate is colorless or yellowish transparent liquid, a natural humectant extracted from a cane sugar complex, and can moisturize and assist water to combine with keratin in the horny layer to achieve the moisturizing effect. Can stimulate the synthesis of ceramide, thereby enhancing the barrier function of skin.
Ceramide
Ceramides consist of a sphingosine long chain base and a fatty acid. It is a lipid naturally found in the skin. A water-resistant barrier is formed at the skin surface. Not only can help the skin to lock water, but also can promote the self-repair of the skin barrier and regulate and control skin cells. Currently, 9 naturally occurring ceramides are found. In addition, plant ceramides (phytoceramides), ceramides (psuedoceramides) and synthetic ceramides (synthetic ceramides) are also known.
Poly quaternary ammonium salt-51
Polyquaternary ammonium salt-51 chemical name: methacryloyloxyethyl phosphorylcholine-n-butyl methacrylate has super-strong moisture retention performance, the moisture retention performance of the methacryloyloxyethyl phosphorylcholine-n-butyl methacrylate is twice that of hyaluronic acid, the methacryloyloxyethyl phosphorylcholine-n-butyl methacrylate has excellent water locking and moisture retention performances, the moisture of skin and hair can be effectively locked, and the moisture retention performance of the methacryloyloxyethyl phosphorylcholine-n-butyl methacrylate cannot be reduced after multiple times of water washing. After the product containing the polyquaternium-51 is smeared, the components of the product can form a layer of breathable biological film on the surface of the skin, the simulation horny layer can provide more layers of protection for the skin, the stimulation of a surfactant to the skin can be effectively inhibited, the rough skin can be improved, the skin is smooth and fine, and the absorption of the active components by the skin can be enhanced.
Seventhly, xanthan gum
Xanthan gum is a biological gum which integrates thickening, suspending, emulsifying and stabilizing in the world at present and has the best performance.
Taking an essence with a skin barrier repair function as an example, the essence is prepared from the following raw materials in the following mass percentage content as a reference:
table 1 raw material components and contents of essence (weight%)
Figure BDA0002507668700000051
The preparation method of the essence with the skin barrier repair function comprises the following steps:
1) adding water into a water kettle, adding carbomer, uniformly dispersing, adding the other raw materials of the phase A, stirring completely, heating to 80-85 ℃, keeping the temperature and stirring for 30 minutes, and keeping the temperature for later use;
2) adding the phase B raw material into an oil phase pot, stirring and heating the mixture to 80-85 ℃ to completely dissolve the mixture, and keeping the temperature for later use;
3) pumping the phase A raw material obtained in the step 1) into an emulsifying pot, pumping the phase B raw material into the emulsifying pot under the condition of homogenizing and stirring, and homogenizing for 5 min;
4) adding the C-phase raw material, and uniformly stirring;
5) and when the temperature is reduced to 40-45 ℃, adding the D-phase raw material into an emulsifying pot, uniformly stirring, and discharging to obtain the essence with the skin barrier repairing function.
The hydrogenated lecithin in the composition is prepared by hydrogenating and modifying natural lecithin, has better stability, can alleviate the stimulation to skin when being added into a formula, simultaneously shows lasting moisturizing performance, and plays an important role in skin metabolism and membrane permeation.
The phytosterol/octododecanol lauroyl glutamate in the composition is formed by components extracted from plants, and the selected phytosterol is a trace component contained in soybeans and is an important component for promoting the rooting and sprouting of the plants; it can also be used for treating hypercholesterolemia and hyperlipidemia. The composition of the present invention contains such an ingredient, and can maintain the stability of intercellular lipids of corneocytes, similar to the structure of ceramides, thereby maintaining the skin in a moist state.
The artichoke leaf extract in the composition is an anti-aging efficacy raw material for cosmetics, and can inhibit the expression of a key factor NF-kB influencing aging. In cases where NF-. kappa.B is required for normal gene expression, unnecessary NF-. kappa.B may cause unnecessary expression. As shown in fig. 1, however, under abnormal conditions such as stress, ultraviolet irradiation, mechanical friction and injury, when cells are under inflammation and the like, NF- κ B is very active to generate excessive gene expression, which causes hyperkeratosis of keratinocytes, excessive proliferation of melanocytes, excessive degradation of collagen, and great damage to the health status of skin, and biotenefity is found to have a strong effect of inhibiting NF- κ B, thereby achieving the purpose of restoring the normal health status of skin.
The unique composition of the saccharide isomers in the compositions of the present invention is similar to the composition of carbohydrate complexes (NMF) in human skin. The unique binding mechanism to the skin is not washed away, and only the natural shedding process removes PENTAVITIN present. Lysine (free-amino) is bound in keratinocytes. The saccharide isomerate can up-regulate the gene expression level of filaggrin and hyaluronic acid synthetase 3, promote the synthesis of NMF and hyaluronic acid and improve the water retention capacity of skin. The saccharide isomerate can improve the gene expression level of the loricrin and influence the function of the cornified envelope. The saccharide isomerate can improve the expression level of acid sphingomyelinase gene and stimulate the synthesis of ceramide, thereby enhancing the barrier function of skin. As shown in table 2 below.
TABLE 2 carbohydrate component composition in saccharide isomerate and epidermis
Figure BDA0002507668700000071
The ceramide compositions of the present invention (comprising ceramide 1, ceramide 3, and ceramide 6) are designed specifically for the absorption of ceramide by the skin. Can strengthen the skin lipid barrier and help dry, sensitive and aged skin to resist water loss and external challenges. Can enhance the transmission and exchange of skin lipid, increase the bioavailability of ceramide, and promote the absorption of ceramide in skin. Has synergistic effect on repairing skin barrier function, and can strengthen skin barrier function and improve clinical condition of contact dermatitis.
Polyquaternium-51 in the composition of the present invention is a cell membrane-like polymer possessing phosphorylcholine groups, which protects the skin's affinity for living organisms under various environmental stresses, as shown in FIG. 2. Polyquaternium-51 can inhibit bacterial attachment, resist dryness and pollution, and relieve external irritation and ultraviolet pressure. Remains on the skin surface after washing with water, forming an excellent water-washable film. The polyquaternium-51 can change according to the molecular alignment of external humidity to adjust the skin moisture. The water retention capacity of the skin care product is about 2 times that of hyaluronic acid, and the skin care product can still keep high water content after being washed by water, thereby enhancing the barrier effect of the skin.
The barrier repair composition and the essence thereof provided by the invention have excellent effects in the aspects of resisting photoaging, inhibiting epidermis moisture loss, keeping skin moisture content, repairing skin barrier function, improving skin pore size, improving inflammatory skin, repairing damaged skin and the like.
The present invention will be further described with reference to the following detailed description and accompanying drawings, which are not intended to limit the invention in any manner.
Examples 1 to 3 (preparation of skin Barrier repair function composition)
A composition with skin barrier repair function comprises the following raw material components in percentage by weight:
table 3 raw material components (% by weight) of the compositions having skin barrier repair function of examples 1 to 3
Figure BDA0002507668700000072
Figure BDA0002507668700000081
The preparation method of the composition with the function of repairing the skin barrier comprises the following steps:
1) weighing hydrogenated lecithin, phytosterol/octyldodecanol lauroyl glutamate, artichoke leaf extract, saccharide isomerous body, ceramide composition, polyquaternium-51, xanthan gum, preservative and water according to formula ratio;
2) adding xanthan gum into water, dispersing, heating to 75-85 deg.C, adding hydrogenated lecithin, homogenizing for 5-8min, adding phytosterol/octyl dodecanol lauroyl glutamate, and homogenizing for 5-8 min;
3) cooling to below 45 deg.C, adding Cynara scolymus leaf extract, saccharide isomer, ceramide composition, polyquaternium-51, phenoxyethanol, and ethylhexylglycerin, and stirring to obtain composition with skin barrier repairing function.
Examples 4 to 6 (preparation of essence containing composition for repairing skin barrier function)
The essence containing the composition for repairing the skin barrier function is prepared from the following raw material components in percentage by mass as shown in table 4:
table 4 raw material components (% by weight) of essences of examples 4 to 6 having skin barrier repair function
Figure BDA0002507668700000082
Figure BDA0002507668700000091
The preparation method of the essence with the skin barrier repair function comprises the following steps:
1) adding water into a water kettle, adding carbomer, uniformly dispersing, adding the other raw materials of the phase A, stirring completely, heating to 80-85 ℃, keeping the temperature and stirring for 30 minutes, and keeping the temperature for later use;
2) adding the phase B raw material into an oil phase pot, stirring and heating the mixture to 80-85 ℃ to completely dissolve the mixture, and keeping the temperature for later use;
3) pumping the phase A raw material obtained in the step 1) into an emulsifying pot, pumping the phase B raw material into the emulsifying pot under the condition of homogenizing and stirring, and homogenizing for 5 min;
4) adding the C-phase raw material, and uniformly stirring;
5) and when the temperature is reduced to 40-45 ℃, adding the D-phase raw material into an emulsifying pot, uniformly stirring, and discharging to obtain the essence with the skin barrier repairing function.
Examples 7 to 9 (preparation of cream containing composition for skin Barrier repairing function)
The cream containing the composition for repairing the skin barrier function is prepared from the following raw material components in percentage by mass as shown in table 5:
table 5 raw material components (% by weight) of creams having skin barrier repair function of examples 7 to 9
Figure BDA0002507668700000092
Figure BDA0002507668700000101
The preparation method of the cream blind with the skin barrier repair function comprises the following steps:
1) adding water into a water kettle, adding carbomer, uniformly dispersing, adding the other raw materials of the phase A, stirring completely, heating to 80-85 ℃, keeping the temperature and stirring for 30 minutes, and keeping the temperature for later use;
2) adding the phase B raw material into an oil phase pot, stirring and heating the mixture to 80-85 ℃ to completely dissolve the mixture, and keeping the temperature for later use;
3) pumping the phase A raw material obtained in the step 1) into an emulsifying pot, pumping the phase B raw material into the emulsifying pot under the condition of homogenizing and stirring, and homogenizing for 5 min;
4) adding the C-phase raw material, and uniformly stirring;
5) and when the temperature is reduced to 40-45 ℃, adding the D-phase raw material into an emulsifying pot, uniformly stirring, and discharging to obtain the essence with the skin barrier repairing function.
The following is a content of the effect verification test example section.
Effect test examples 1-2 (efficacy test of composition essence containing skin Barrier repairing function)
1) In vitro efficacy
The effect of our efficacy composition at this stage after NF-. kappa.B activation was measured using cells transfected with the p65 gene to express NF-. kappa.B activity. The results in FIG. 3 show that the efficacy composition has a strong inhibitory effect on the increase of NF-. kappa.B transcription even when NF-. kappa.B activity is strongly expressed. The level of inhibition of the potency composition is nearly the same as TNF- α, based on the transcriptional activity of NF- κ B, and the inhibitory effect of the potency composition on the increased transcription of NF- κ B occurs primarily after NF- κ B is activated. The transcription effect of NF-kappa B is greatly reduced along with the increase of the addition amount.
2) In vivo efficacy
The essence with the skin barrier repair composition is tested according to different test items, and test results are obtained according to days on demand.
2.1) soothing effect
The inner side of the forearm is physically injured in a tape tearing mode, so that the skin barrier is damaged, and the skin is red. Selecting a forearm injury area, using a test sample, repeatedly testing the skin color a value of the test area within a set time, and evaluating the relieving repair effect of the test sample. The results in fig. 4 show that the skin color a value in the test area is significantly reduced and the soothing effect is good after the test sample is smeared, compared to immediately after the lesion has been peeled off.
(skin color: the skin color meter Colorimeter CL400 is used to detect skin color. the higher the value of a, the redder the skin color.)
2.2) skin elasticity
The buccal part was applied twice daily for 3 weeks. A blank sample is smeared on the left face, a test sample is smeared on the right face, and initial and final skin elasticity data are recorded through respective test by a skin elasticity tester. As shown in fig. 5, a line graph is prepared, and the test result shows that the effect of improving the skin elasticity of the efficacy group is obviously improved compared with the control group after the test sample is used for three weeks.
(skin elasticity: skin elasticity tester Cutomer MPA 580 is a device for measuring skin viscoelasticity by suction, and the higher the value, the better the skin elasticity.)
2.3) skin Water loss (TEWL)
The 5% efficacy actives were added to the serum as compared to a blank control without actives: the results were tested twice daily on the cheek area for 4 consecutive weeks. As shown in fig. 6, the moisturizing effect on human skin was tested by the trans-dermal water loss (TEWL), and it can be seen that the TEWL decreased by 20% after 20 tape-tears compared to before-tearing after 28 days using the essence of 5% efficacy composition, indicating that the skin barrier function was enhanced.
(TEWL: TEWL was tested by the Tewameter TM 300 from CK corporation to assess the barrier function of the skin, the lower the TEWL value, the more intact the skin barrier function.)
2.4) moisture content of the skin
The skin surface is marked, a plurality of points are located, and the facial skin hydration is visualized using a 3D facial hydration color image analysis technique by testing the data at these designated points over time, i.e., measuring the conductivity in the stratum corneum by Skincon. As shown in fig. 7(a) and 7(b), improvement of the degree of facial moisturization was achieved after 3 hours and 28 days using the composition with 5% effect added. After the skin care product is continuously used for 28 days, 5% of essence of the efficacy composition is added, and the vitality is reinjected to the tired and dry skin.
(skin moisture content: moisture content at various depths of skin was measured by conductivity method using a skin moisture tester Corneometer CM825, which shows that the color is bluer and the skin is more moist.)
2.5) degree of roughness of the skin surface
As shown in fig. 8, the essence with 5% of the added amount of the effect composition was applied to the damaged skin, and the macro photography showed that the appearance of the skin was significantly improved and the damage degree was significantly reduced after 4 weeks using the essence with 5% of the added amount of the effect composition.
2.6) skin pore size
As shown in fig. 9, after 5% of the essence added with the efficacy composition was applied to the skin for 2 months, the pore size was significantly improved.
The experimental test results show that the barrier repair composition and the essence thereof provided by the invention have excellent effects on resisting photoaging, inhibiting epidermis moisture loss, maintaining skin moisture content, repairing skin barrier function, improving skin pore size, improving inflammatory skin, repairing damaged skin and the like.
The above description is only a preferred embodiment of the present invention, and is not intended to limit the present invention in any way, so that any simple modification, equivalent change and modification made to the above embodiment according to the technical spirit of the present invention are within the scope of the technical solution of the present invention.

Claims (8)

1. The composition with the skin barrier repair function is characterized by comprising the following raw materials in percentage by mass:
0.1-3% of hydrogenated lecithin, 0.1-5% of phytosterol/capryl dodecanol lauroyl glutamate, 0.1-5% of cynara scolymus leaf extract, 0.1-5% of saccharide isomer, 0.1-10% of ceramide composition, 0.05-0.3% of polyquaternium-510.05-5%, 0.1-2.0% of xanthan gum, and water added to 100%.
2. The composition having skin barrier repair function according to claim 1, wherein: the material is composed of the following raw materials by mass percent:
0.5-2.5% of hydrogenated lecithin, 0.5-4.0% of phytosterol/capryl dodecanol lauroyl glutamate, 0.5-4.0% of cynara scolymus leaf extract, 0.5-4.0% of carbohydrate isomer, 1.0-5% of ceramide composition, 510.2-3.5% of polyquaternium, 0.08-0.3% of xanthan gum, 0.1-1.5% of preservative and water added to 100%.
3. A method for preparing a composition having skin barrier repair function according to claim 1 or 2, comprising the steps of:
1) weighing hydrogenated lecithin, phytosterol/caprylyl dodecanol lauroyl glutamate, artichoke leaf extract, saccharide isomerate, a ceramide composition, polyquaternium-51, xanthan gum, a preservative and water in a formula ratio;
2) adding xanthan gum into water, dispersing, heating to 75-85 deg.C, adding hydrogenated lecithin, homogenizing for 5-8min, adding phytosterol/capryl dodecanol lauroyl glutamate, and homogenizing for 5-8 min;
3) cooling to below 45 deg.C, adding Cynara scolymus leaf extract, saccharide isomer, ceramide composition, polyquaternium-51 and antiseptic, and stirring to obtain composition with skin barrier repairing function.
4. Use of the composition having skin barrier repair function according to claim 1 or 2 for the preparation of cosmetics, characterized in that: the composition accounts for 1-30% of the total amount of the cosmetic formula.
5. Use of a composition having skin barrier repair function according to claim 4 for the preparation of a cosmetic product, characterized in that: the cosmetic also comprises conventional adjuvants, which contain: one or more of a viscosity modifier, an emollient, a humectant, a chelating agent, a skin feel conditioner, an emulsifier, a preservative and an essence.
6. Use of the composition with skin barrier repair function according to claim 5 in the preparation of cosmetics, characterized in that:
the viscosity regulator is selected from one or more of xanthan gum, carbomer, acrylic acid (ester)/C10-30 alkanol acrylate cross-linked polymer, hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer or polyacrylic acid (ester) copolymer;
the emollient is selected from one or more of squalane, shea butter, jojoba oil, phytosterol ester, caprylic/capric triglyceride, and polydimethylsiloxane;
the humectant is selected from one or more of glycerin, butanediol, PCA sodium, sodium hyaluronate, saccharides and polyethylene glycol;
the chelating agent is selected from one or more of disodium EDTA and tetrasodium EDTA;
the skin feeling conditioning agent is selected from one or more of glycerol polyacrylate, polyquaternium-51, beta-glucan, hydrolyzed collagen, hydrolyzed silk, hydroxyethyl cellulose, sclerotium gum, Chondrus crispus and Tremella heteropolysaccharide;
the emulsifier is one or more selected from glyceryl stearate, PEG-100 stearate, steareth-21, PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquistearate, alkyl glycoside, and potassium cetyl phosphate;
the preservative is one or more of p-hydroxyacetophenone, phenoxyethanol, ethylhexyl glycerol, glyceryl caprylate, sodium benzoate, hexanediol, caprylyl glycol, pentanediol, caprylyl hydroxypentanoic acid and chlorphenesin.
7. Use of the composition with skin barrier repair function according to claim 5 in the preparation of cosmetics, characterized in that: the cosmetic can be made into various skin care preparations such as astringent, facial mask, jelly, essence, lotion and cream.
8. Use of the composition with skin barrier repair function according to claim 6 for the preparation of cosmetics, wherein: the evaluation method of the skin moisture content involved in the efficacy test is to use a 3D facial moisture content color image analysis technology to visualize the facial skin moisture content and visually observe different states of the skin moisture content and the repair effect of each part of the skin.
CN202010450935.5A 2020-05-25 2020-05-25 Composition with skin barrier repair function and preparation method and application thereof Pending CN111529444A (en)

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CN111991278A (en) * 2020-09-30 2020-11-27 珠海美逸生物科技有限公司 Composition with skin barrier repairing effect and preparation method and application thereof
CN112402282A (en) * 2020-10-30 2021-02-26 广州集妍化妆品科技有限公司 Ceramide composition and cosmetic with repairing function
CN113181080A (en) * 2021-02-07 2021-07-30 上海奥利实业有限公司 Transparent oil solution of phosphorylcholine polymer and its preparation method and use
CN112842985A (en) * 2021-02-08 2021-05-28 广州花出见生物科技有限公司 Moisturizing and repairing composition
CN113440440A (en) * 2021-07-26 2021-09-28 宝萃生物科技有限公司 Skin barrier repair composition and preparation method and application thereof
CN113440440B (en) * 2021-07-26 2022-06-07 宝萃生物科技有限公司 Skin barrier repair composition and preparation method and application thereof
CN115569082A (en) * 2022-09-22 2023-01-06 羽楠(广州)化妆品有限公司 Hair conditioning composition with repairing effect and preparation method and application thereof
CN115804744A (en) * 2022-12-27 2023-03-17 广州研智化妆品有限公司 Essence capable of reducing skin pruritus and erythema
CN115804744B (en) * 2022-12-27 2024-04-09 广州研智化妆品有限公司 Essence capable of reducing skin itch and erythema
CN115919715A (en) * 2022-12-29 2023-04-07 羽楠(广州)化妆品有限公司 Mild, low-viscosity and foamy cleaning composition and preparation method thereof
CN117064777A (en) * 2023-07-26 2023-11-17 妆莱(广州)生物研究有限公司 Composition and application thereof in improving skin barrier and skin care product

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Application publication date: 20200814