CN117064777A - Composition and application thereof in improving skin barrier and skin care product - Google Patents
Composition and application thereof in improving skin barrier and skin care product Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- CN117064777A CN117064777A CN202310925891.0A CN202310925891A CN117064777A CN 117064777 A CN117064777 A CN 117064777A CN 202310925891 A CN202310925891 A CN 202310925891A CN 117064777 A CN117064777 A CN 117064777A
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- China
- Prior art keywords
- composition
- skin
- application
- glycine
- octanoylglycine
- Prior art date
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- GPRLSGONYQIRFK-UHFFFAOYSA-N hydron Chemical compound [H+] GPRLSGONYQIRFK-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 229940100554 isononyl isononanoate Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 210000002510 keratinocyte Anatomy 0.000 description 1
- 125000000400 lauroyl group Chemical group O=C([*])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])[H] 0.000 description 1
- 239000000787 lecithin Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000010445 lecithin Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 229940067606 lecithin Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 239000000463 material Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000013336 milk Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000008267 milk Substances 0.000 description 1
- 210000004080 milk Anatomy 0.000 description 1
- 239000002480 mineral oil Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000010446 mineral oil Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 238000002156 mixing Methods 0.000 description 1
- GOQYKNQRPGWPLP-UHFFFAOYSA-N n-heptadecyl alcohol Natural products CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCO GOQYKNQRPGWPLP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 239000013642 negative control Substances 0.000 description 1
- 231100000344 non-irritating Toxicity 0.000 description 1
- 235000015097 nutrients Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- AEIJTFQOBWATKX-UHFFFAOYSA-N octane-1,2-diol Chemical compound CCCCCCC(O)CO AEIJTFQOBWATKX-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 230000035699 permeability Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000002985 plastic film Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229920006255 plastic film Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 229920000570 polyether Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 229920000059 polyethylene glycol stearate Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 229920005862 polyol Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 150000003077 polyols Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 239000001818 polyoxyethylene sorbitan monostearate Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000010989 polyoxyethylene sorbitan monostearate Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 229920000136 polysorbate Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 229950008882 polysorbate Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 229940113124 polysorbate 60 Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 239000013641 positive control Substances 0.000 description 1
- 159000000001 potassium salts Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 239000002243 precursor Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000035935 pregnancy Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000012545 processing Methods 0.000 description 1
- 235000018102 proteins Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 102000004169 proteins and genes Human genes 0.000 description 1
- 108090000623 proteins and genes Proteins 0.000 description 1
- 230000009467 reduction Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000013558 reference substance Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000001105 regulatory effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000011076 safety test Methods 0.000 description 1
- 229940043230 sarcosine Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 210000002374 sebum Anatomy 0.000 description 1
- 230000037307 sensitive skin Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000002453 shampoo Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000009759 skin aging Effects 0.000 description 1
- 208000017520 skin disease Diseases 0.000 description 1
- 230000004215 skin function Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000000344 soap Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000011780 sodium chloride Substances 0.000 description 1
- HRZFUMHJMZEROT-UHFFFAOYSA-L sodium disulfite Chemical compound [Na+].[Na+].[O-]S(=O)S([O-])(=O)=O HRZFUMHJMZEROT-UHFFFAOYSA-L 0.000 description 1
- 235000010267 sodium hydrogen sulphite Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000004289 sodium hydrogen sulphite Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000019333 sodium laurylsulphate Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 229940001584 sodium metabisulfite Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 235000010262 sodium metabisulphite Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 235000010265 sodium sulphite Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- AKHNMLFCWUSKQB-UHFFFAOYSA-L sodium thiosulfate Chemical compound [Na+].[Na+].[O-]S([O-])(=O)=S AKHNMLFCWUSKQB-UHFFFAOYSA-L 0.000 description 1
- 229940001474 sodium thiosulfate Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 235000019345 sodium thiosulphate Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- LWBVAHQZGAKXPU-BOXHHOBZSA-M sodium;(4s)-4-amino-5-octadecoxy-5-oxopentanoate Chemical compound [Na+].CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCOC(=O)[C@@H](N)CCC([O-])=O LWBVAHQZGAKXPU-BOXHHOBZSA-M 0.000 description 1
- 230000007928 solubilization Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000005063 solubilization Methods 0.000 description 1
- 230000003595 spectral effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000013112 stability test Methods 0.000 description 1
- 230000000638 stimulation Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000005720 sucrose Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000008961 swelling Effects 0.000 description 1
- 208000024891 symptom Diseases 0.000 description 1
- 235000010384 tocopherol Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000011732 tocopherol Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229960001295 tocopherol Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 229930003799 tocopherol Natural products 0.000 description 1
- 231100000331 toxic Toxicity 0.000 description 1
- 230000002588 toxic effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000004627 transmission electron microscopy Methods 0.000 description 1
- 150000003626 triacylglycerols Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- UFTFJSFQGQCHQW-UHFFFAOYSA-N triformin Chemical compound O=COCC(OC=O)COC=O UFTFJSFQGQCHQW-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 235000015112 vegetable and seed oil Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000008158 vegetable oil Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000005303 weighing Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000009736 wetting Methods 0.000 description 1
- GVJHHUAWPYXKBD-IEOSBIPESA-N α-tocopherol Chemical compound OC1=C(C)C(C)=C2O[C@@](CCC[C@H](C)CCC[C@H](C)CCCC(C)C)(C)CCC2=C1C GVJHHUAWPYXKBD-IEOSBIPESA-N 0.000 description 1
Classifications
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
- A61K8/44—Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
- A61Q19/08—Anti-ageing preparations
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
- A61K2800/59—Mixtures
- A61K2800/592—Mixtures of compounds complementing their respective functions
- A61K2800/5922—At least two compounds being classified in the same subclass of A61K8/18
Landscapes
- Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
- Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
- Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
- General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
- Public Health (AREA)
- Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
- Dermatology (AREA)
- Birds (AREA)
- Epidemiology (AREA)
- Gerontology & Geriatric Medicine (AREA)
- Cosmetics (AREA)
Abstract
The application discloses a composition and application thereof in improving skin barrier and a skin care product, wherein the composition comprises octanoylglycine and undecenoylglycine. The technical scheme of the application can be used for improving the skin barrier aging problem by combining octanoylglycine and undecenoylglycine. As biological carriers of glycine, octanoyl glycine and undecylenic acid have good moisturizing performance, can reduce skin surface skin moisture loss and prevent skin allergy, and in the composition of the application, the octanoyl glycine and the undecylenic acid not only play the conventional roles of the compositions, but also mutually support each other in function, so that the composition of the application can be used for slowing down the aging of skin barriers or repairing aged skin barriers.
Description
Technical Field
The application relates to the technical field of cosmetics, in particular to a composition and application thereof in improving skin barrier and a skin care product.
Background
The skin barrier of the human body is a multiple barrier composed of different cells, tissues and structures, and the multiple barriers jointly regulate the skin function so as to maintain the health of the human body. The human skin barrier consists of four parts, namely a physical barrier, a chemical barrier, a microbial barrier and an immune barrier, wherein the physical barrier and the chemical barrier are used for resisting external skin stimulation, keeping moisture and acidity of the skin, serving as nutrient substances for the microbial barrier and maintaining the homeostasis of the immune barrier of the human body.
With the age, the pH value of the skin surface of a human body can be increased, so that the stable state of the skin barrier is disturbed, and the problems of dry skin, sensitive skin and the like are generated. The pH of the skin is involved in maintaining the integrity of the stratum corneum, and both the skin barrier function and the desquamation of the stratum corneum are affected by the skin's acid-base balance.
Disclosure of Invention
The application mainly aims to provide a composition containing capryl glycine and undecylenic acid, application thereof and a skin care product, and aims to improve the aging problem of skin barriers.
To achieve the above object, the present application proposes the use of a composition comprising capryl glycine and undecylenoyl glycine for improving the skin barrier.
In one embodiment, the mass ratio of octanoylglycine to undecenoylglycine in the composition is (1:10) - (15:1).
In one embodiment, the composition further comprises a co-solvent comprising one or more of phenoxyethanol, octylglycol, and ethylhexyl glycerol.
The application also provides a composition comprising octanoylglycine and undecenoylglycine.
In one embodiment, the mass ratio of octanoylglycine to undecenoylglycine is (1:10) - (15:1).
In one embodiment, the composition further comprises a co-solvent comprising one or more of phenoxyethanol, octylglycol, and ethylhexyl glycerol.
In one embodiment, the total content of the cosolvent, the octanoylglycine and the undecylenoylglycine is 100wt%, wherein the content of the octanoylglycine is 1wt% to 15wt%, and the content of the undecylenoylglycine is 1wt% to 10wt%.
The application also provides a skin care product comprising a composition as described above.
In one embodiment, the skin care product is in the form of any one of cream, emulsion, water, oil or gel.
In one embodiment, the composition is present in an amount of 1wt% to 5wt%.
The technical scheme of the application can be used for improving the skin barrier aging problem by combining octanoylglycine and undecenoylglycine. As biological carriers of glycine, octanoyl glycine and undecylenic acid have good moisturizing performance, can reduce skin surface skin moisture loss and prevent skin allergy, and in the composition of the application, the octanoyl glycine and the undecylenic acid not only play the conventional roles of the compositions, but also mutually support each other in function, so that the composition of the application can be used for slowing down the aging of skin barriers or repairing aged skin barriers.
Detailed Description
The following description of the technical solutions in the embodiments of the present application will be clear and complete, and it is obvious that the described embodiments are only some embodiments of the present application, but not all embodiments. All other embodiments, which can be made by those skilled in the art based on the embodiments of the application without making any inventive effort, are intended to be within the scope of the application.
The terms "comprising," "including," "containing," "having," or other variations thereof, are intended to cover a non-exclusive inclusion, without distinguishing between them. The term "comprising" means that other steps and ingredients may be added that do not affect the end result. The term "comprising" also includes the terms "consisting of …" and "consisting essentially of …". The compositions and methods/processes of the present application comprise, consist of, and consist essentially of the essential elements and limitations described herein, as well as additional or optional ingredients, components, steps, or limitations of any of the embodiments described herein.
All numbers or expressions referring to amounts of components, process conditions, etc. used in the specification and claims are to be understood as modified in all instances by "about". All ranges directed to the same component or property are inclusive of the endpoints, which endpoints are independently combinable. Because these ranges are continuous, they include every value between the minimum and maximum values. It should also be understood that any numerical range recited herein is intended to include all sub-ranges within that range.
The raw materials and equipment used in the application are common raw materials and equipment in the field unless specified otherwise; the methods used in the present application are conventional in the art unless otherwise specified. Unless otherwise defined, all terms used in the specification have the same meaning as commonly understood by one of ordinary skill in the art, but are defined in the specification to be used in the event of a conflict.
The application provides a use of a composition containing capryl glycine and undecylenic acid for improving skin barrier.
Glycine is a constituent of the Natural Moisturizing Factor (NMF) of the stratum corneum. Octanoylglycine is a product of acylation of glycine and octanoic acid, and is an amphiphilic molecular structure composed of one lipophilic group (octanoic acid) and one hydrophilic group (glycine); undecylenoylglycine as another derivative of glycine has a structure very similar to that of natural fatty amino acids in cell protoplasm, has good skin affinity, is an active ingredient with similar efficacy to sebum ingredients such as triglyceride and the like, and is easy to be utilized by skin; octanoylglycine and undecylenoylglycine are commonly used as bacteriostatic agents, oil control and antidandruff agents in cosmetics.
The technical scheme of the application can be used for improving the skin barrier aging problem by combining octanoylglycine and undecenoylglycine. As biological carriers of glycine, octanoyl glycine and undecylenic acid have good moisturizing performance, can reduce skin surface skin moisture loss and prevent skin allergy, and in the composition of the application, the octanoyl glycine and the undecylenic acid not only play the conventional roles of the compositions, but also mutually support each other in function, so that the composition of the application can be used for slowing down the aging of skin barriers or repairing aged skin barriers.
According to the use of the present application, the mass ratio of octanoylglycine to undecylenoylglycine in the composition is (1:10) - (15:1), i.e. the mass ratio of octanoylglycine to undecylenoylglycine is 1: 10. 5: 1. 15:1 or any value therebetween. Within the above ratio range, octanoylglycine and undecenoylglycine can exert a large synergistic effect.
According to the use of the present application, the composition further comprises a co-solvent, in a specific embodiment, the total content of the co-solvent, octanoylglycine and undecylenoylglycine is 100wt%, wherein the content of octanoylglycine is 1wt% to 15wt%, and the content of undecylenoylglycine is 1wt% to 10wt%. The water solubility of the octanoyl glycine and the undecylenoyl glycine in cosmetics is poor, and the octanoyl glycine and the undecylenoyl glycine are usually dissolved in an alkali neutralization mode or dissolved in grease by heating, but the former can damage the acidic characteristics of the octanoyl glycine and the undecylenoyl glycine, so that the efficacy of the composition is greatly reduced, and the application dosage form of the composition in cosmetics is limited; according to the technical scheme, the cosolvent is added into the composition to improve the water solubility of the composition in cosmetics, and the cosolvent can be a liquid alcohol ether solvent.
In particular, in a preferred embodiment, the co-solvent comprises one or more of phenoxyethanol, octylglycol, and ethylhexyl glycerol.
The present application also provides a composition comprising capryl glycine and undecylenoyl glycine.
The composition in the technical scheme of the application contains octanoylglycine and undecenoylglycine, and can be used for improving the skin barrier aging problem. As biological carriers of glycine, octanoyl glycine and undecylenic acid have good moisturizing performance, can reduce skin surface skin moisture loss and prevent skin allergy, and in the composition of the application, the octanoyl glycine and the undecylenic acid not only play the conventional roles of the compositions, but also mutually support each other in function, so that the composition of the application can be used for slowing down the aging of skin barriers or repairing aged skin barriers.
According to the composition of the application, the mass ratio of octanoylglycine to undecylenylglycine is (1:10) - (15:1), i.e. the mass ratio of octanoylglycine to undecylenylglycine is 1: 10. 5: 1. 15:1 or any value therebetween. Within the above ratio range, octanoylglycine and undecenoylglycine can exert a large synergistic effect.
The composition according to the application further comprises a co-solvent, in a specific embodiment the total content of co-solvent with octanoylglycine, undecylenoylglycine is 100wt%, wherein the content of octanoylglycine is 1wt% to 15wt% and the content of undecylenoylglycine is 1wt% to 10wt%. The water solubility of the octanoyl glycine and the undecylenoyl glycine in cosmetics is poor, and the octanoyl glycine and the undecylenoyl glycine are usually dissolved in an alkali neutralization mode or dissolved in grease by heating, but the former can damage the acidic characteristics of the octanoyl glycine and the undecylenoyl glycine, so that the efficacy of the composition is greatly reduced, and the application dosage form of the composition in cosmetics is limited; the technical scheme of the application is that the water solubility of the composition in cosmetics is improved by adding a cosolvent into the composition, wherein the cosolvent can be selected from liquid alcohol ether solvents, such as: polyol reagents such as butanediol.
In particular, in a preferred embodiment, the co-solvent comprises one or more of phenoxyethanol, octylglycol, and ethylhexyl glycerol. Phenoxyethanol, caprylyl glycol and ethylhexyl glycerol are humectants which can be used for improving the water content of keratinocytes, one or more of the humectants are compounded into the composition, so that the stability of the composition in cosmetics is improved, the problem that the solubility of caprylyl glycine and undecylenoyl glycine in cosmetics is low in application can be effectively solved, the composition has good compatibility in a partial oil phase system and a water phase system, and the composition has good effects of regulating the acid-base balance and the water-oil balance of skin, so that the aging of the skin barrier is slowed down or the restoration of the skin barrier after aging is realized.
The preparation steps of the composition comprise: weighing a proper amount of octanoylglycine and undecylenoylglycine in a container, adding a proper amount of cosolvent into the container for premixing, dissolving the mixture into transparent uniform liquid at 60-70 ℃, and cooling the liquid to room temperature to obtain the composition capable of improving skin barrier.
The application also provides a skin care product which comprises the composition, and because the skin care product adopts all the technical schemes of all the embodiments, the skin care product has at least all the beneficial effects brought by the technical schemes of the embodiments, and the description is omitted herein.
The skin care product according to the present application, wherein the content of the composition is 1wt% to 5wt%, i.e. the content of the composition is 1wt%, 3wt%, 5wt% or any value therebetween; when the content of the composition is too low, the efficacy of the skin care product in repairing the skin barrier is greatly compromised.
According to the skin care product provided by the application, the dosage form of the skin care product can be any one of emulsion, cream, aqua, oil or gel.
The skin care product according to the present application may be a cleansing skin care product, for example: cleansing cream, shampoo, body wash, and the like. In a specific embodiment, the formula of the cleanser can be found in table 1 below:
| component (A) | Parts by weight |
| Water and its preparation method | TO100 |
| Polyhydric alcohols | 1-10 |
| Chelating agent | 0.05-0.1 |
| Surface active agent | 1-20 |
| Thickening agent | 0.1-5 |
| Humectant type | 1-5 |
| Preservative agent | 0.01-1 |
| Ester forming agent | 1-3 |
| Compositions of the application | 0.1-5 |
In the above table 1, the polyhydric alcohol may be selected from one or more of glycerin, diglycerin, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, 1, 2-pentanediol, hexylene glycol; the chelating agent is one or more selected from EDTA-disodium and sodium gluconate; the preservative is selected from one or more of p-hydroxyacetophenone, benzoic acid and its salts/esters, formic acid and its sodium salt, benzyl alcohol, phenoxyethanol, sorbic acid and its salts; the thickener is selected from one or more of xanthan gum, cellulose, acrylic copolymer, carbomer and sodium/potassium salt thereof; the surfactant may be selected from sulfate surfactants (such as sodium laurylsulfate, amine laurylsulfate) and/or amino acid surfactants (such as lauroyl/cocoylglycine/glutamic acid/sarcosine and sodium/potassium salts); the humectant is one or more selected from trehalose, hyaluronic acid and its salts, lactic acid and its salts, betaine, saccharide isomer; the ester forming agent can be one or more of triglycerides, isononyl isononanoate and glycol stearate.
In another embodiment, the skin care product is a leave-on skin care product in the form of a cream, the specific formulation of which can be seen in table 2 below:
| component (A) | Weight fraction/part |
| Water and its preparation method | TO100 |
| Polyhydric alcohols | 1-10 |
| Chelating agent | 0.05-0.1 |
| Emulsifying agent | 1-5 |
| Thickening agent | 0.1-5 |
| Emollient(s) | 1-10 |
| Preservative agent | 0.01-1 |
| Antioxidant agent | 0.01-0.1 |
| Compositions of the application | 0.1-5 |
In the above table 2, the polyhydric alcohol may be selected from one or more of glycerin, diglycerin, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, 1, 2-pentanediol, hexylene glycol; the chelating agent is one or more selected from EDTA-disodium and sodium gluconate; the preservative is selected from one or more of p-hydroxyacetophenone, benzoic acid and its salts/esters, formic acid and its sodium salt, benzyl alcohol, phenoxyethanol, sorbic acid and its salts; the thickener is selected from one or more of xanthan gum, cellulose, carbomer and sodium/potassium salts thereof; the emollient is selected from one or more of mineral oil, vegetable oil, semisynthetic or fully synthetic oil; the emulsifier is one or more selected from PEG-100 glyceryl stearate, polysorbate-60, sorbitan sesquistearate, sodium stearyl glutamate, sodium isostearyl lactate, stearyl alcohol polyether, sucrose polysorbate; the humectant is one or more selected from trehalose, hyaluronic acid and its salts, lactic acid and its salts, betaine, saccharide isomer; the antioxidant is selected from one or more of sodium sulfite, sodium bisulphite, sodium metabisulfite, sodium thiosulfate, ascorbic acid, tocopherol, lecithin, butylated hydroxytoluene, butylated hydroxyanisole.
Application testing
Scheme design is shown in table 3 below:
(one) stability test
The validity experiments and comparison are carried out on the examples 1-8 and the comparative examples 1-2, the stability is observed for 90 days, and the test results are shown in the following table 4:
analysis of table 4 above: as can be seen from example 3 in comparison with comparative examples 1 and 2, octanoylglycine and undecenoylglycine synergistically impart better stability to the composition; from examples 1 to 5, the stability of the composition of the present application is better when the weight part of octanoylglycine is 1 to 15 parts, and the weight part of undecylenoylglycine is 1 to 10 parts; as can be seen from examples 3 and 6-8, the co-solvent in the compositions of the present application provides solubilization and better stability of the compositions prepared using one or more co-solvents selected from phenoxyethanol, octylglycol and ethylhexyl glycerol than the common co-solvents selected from butanediol.
(II) pH test
Comparative example 3 was set: 10 parts of octanoylglycine and 8 parts of undecylenoylglycine are weighed according to parts by weight, mixed, and the arginine is selected for neutralization until the mixture is completely dissolved, so as to prepare a 10% aqueous solution.
The compositions of examples 1 to 7 were prepared as 10% aqueous solutions, and the pH values of the compositions of examples 1 to 7 (10% aqueous solutions) and the aqueous solutions of comparative example 3 were measured, and the test results are shown in table 5 below:
table 5 above demonstrates: the composition design of the application can maintain the acidity of the octanoyl glycine and the undecylenoyl glycine, can ensure that the pH of the composition of the embodiment is maintained in an acidic environment lower than 5, does not need to be dissolved in an alkali neutralization mode, avoids the condition that the acidity characteristics of the octanoyl glycine and the undecylenoyl glycine are damaged in the alkali neutralization process, thereby causing the condition that the efficacy of the octanoyl glycine and the undecylenoyl glycine is reduced, effectively solving the problem of the solubility of the octanoyl glycine and the undecylenoyl glycine in cosmetic application, and overcoming the limitation of the octanoyl glycine and the undecylenoyl glycine in application dosage forms.
(III) efficacy test
1. Safety test (irritation test)
The composition of the present application was tested for the presence of irritation at various application concentrations, examples 1 to 7 in the above-described protocol designs were used as an implementation group, comparative examples 1 to 2 were used as a control group, and pre-experiments and formal experiments were performed after confirming that the damaged blood vessel was not damaged by peeling off eggshells of air chamber portions of nine-day-old chick embryos, exposing white egg membranes, wetting the egg membranes with 0.9% sodium chloride (NaC l) solution, and removing inner membranes with forceps.
(1) Experimental procedure
(a) The test groups, at least 6 chick embryos per group, require negative control, positive control and blank control to be set for each test.
(b) Chick embryo chorioallantoic membrane (CAM) preparation: checking 9-day-old chick embryo with egg, peeling off eggshell part of air chamber, dripping normal saline on eggshell membrane surface to make it sufficiently wet, and removing eggshell membrane.
(c) Coating 5wt% of a test object on the surface of a plastic film, turning over the film, and contacting the sample surface with a CAM; after 3min of action, the film was removed, the CAM surface was rinsed with double distilled water, and immediately after the rinsing was completed within 30s, the extent of change in each toxic effect was observed and scored (ES).
(2) Observation of results
Bleeding: blood flows from the blood vessels or capillaries of the CAM; and judging 0, 1,2 and 3 points according to no bleeding, mild bleeding, moderate bleeding and severe bleeding.
Coagulation: refers to the denaturation of proteins inside and outside blood vessels, and is manifested by thrombus, closed swelling, appearance of coagulation points inside and outside blood vessels, opacification turbidity outside blood vessels and the like; the blood coagulation is judged to be 0, 1,2 and 3 respectively according to the non-coagulation, the light coagulation, the moderate coagulation and the moderate coagulation.
Vascular lysis: vascular ablation on the CAM membrane; and judging 0, 1,2 and 3 points according to the avascular ablation, the mild vascular ablation, the moderate vascular ablation and the severe vascular ablation respectively.
(3) Calculation and evaluation of results
The ES value of each test group is calculated,and the stimulus classification was judged according to the following table 6:
(4) The experimental results are shown in table 7 below:
analysis of table 7 above gives: the compositions of the present application are substantially non-irritating at 5% of the tested concentration, eliminating the risk of themselves.
2. Skin barrier repair efficacy test
The composition of example 3 of the above protocol design was selected and applied to a moisturizing milk base formulation at an application concentration of 5wt%, with reference to formulation table 8 below:
the preparation process is as follows: mixing the phase A materials, stirring and heating to 80 ℃, adding the phase B, rapidly homogenizing for 5min to uniformity, and preserving heat for 20 min; adding the raw material C at 50 ℃ and uniformly stirring; discharging at 45 ℃. Test samples of 30 x 50 ml were prepared and subjects selected for efficacy testing from groups of subjects with impaired facial barrier and aging problems.
Wherein the subject should meet the following criteria:
-between 30 and 60 years of age, healthy men or women;
-lactic acid stinging positive;
the subjective skin has one of the symptoms of impaired skin barrier function such as dryness, desquamation, redness and the like;
-a person who can understand the testing process, voluntarily attend the test and sign informed consent;
-the product can be used in the required amount.
Subject exclusion criteria reference T/GDCA 009-2022, specific exclusion criteria were as follows:
-pregnant or lactating women, or those having a pregnancy plan in the near future;
-patients with a history of skin diseases such as psoriasis, eczema, atopic dermatitis, etc.;
-anti-inflammatory drugs such as corticosteroids taken orally or topically in approximately one month;
-present or nearly 1 month to other clinical experimenters;
-involuntarily participating, failing to complete the required content on time;
other clinical evaluations were considered unsuitable for participation in the trial.
Subject limitation: the test product provided by the test institution should be used at the test site during the test, and any other product having the same effect or possibly having an influence on the test result cannot be used. The use habit of other daily necessities such as perfumed soap, bath foam and the like is kept consistent.
Test article: test product-the above prepared sample; control product-matrix control (matrix formulation without added active). Providing a sample amount which meets the accumulated usage amount of the subject, and randomly distributing test products and reference substances; sample use method, use amount per time, use frequency, use notice, and use record form are provided.
Test site: a face.
Test instrument: stratum corneum moisture tester-an instrument that detects the moisture content of the stratum corneum of the skin by capacitance; skin pH tester-detecting skin surface pH by measuring hydrogen ion concentration; skin red pigment tester/skin colorimeter/image acquisition analyzer-skin red pigment content is detected by spectral absorption principle.
Environmental conditions: in the test process, the test conditions at any test time point should be kept consistent, such as testers, places, instruments and the like; the instrument test should be carried out at the temperature (21+/-1) DEG C and relative humidity: (50.+ -.10)% of the total time, the subject should be acclimatized to the environmental conditions for at least 30 minutes before being assessed and tested.
Test analysis
(1) 30 subjects meeting the above experimental conditions were recruited, and the results of the specific tests are shown in the following table 9 by analyzing the pH change amount and the change rate of the water content of the horny layer of the test site of the subjects before and after using the samples for 28 days:
the acidic pH of the skin Stratum Corneum (SC) is a critical factor in the functional integrity of the skin barrier, and is involved in maintaining the integrity of the stratum corneum, affecting the barrier function of the epidermis and the desquamation and antibacterial defenses of the stratum corneum. From the above table 9, the pH of the epidermis of the skin tends to be significantly lowered after using the sample, and it is proved that the composition of the present application can be used to increase the moisture content of the skin and maintain the acidity value of the face, can be used to increase the physicochemical barrier of the epidermis, and can prevent the aging of the skin barrier.
(2) The lipid sheet tissue was used for 4 weeks with the test samples, and the ceramide EOS, NP and NH, and the total lipid change were analyzed by (TEM) transmission electron microscopy, and the specific test results are shown in table 10 below:
as shown in table 9 above, the test samples at a certain concentration can be used to increase lipid content, in particular, the content of ceramide EOS and NP is significantly increased; the above table 10 demonstrates that the compositions of the present application can be used to increase lipid content in the stratum corneum, while the processing of lipid precursor molecules is critical to the homeostasis of epidermal permeability, that is, the above table 10 demonstrates that the compositions of the present application can be used to repair the aged skin barrier and prevent the reduction in lipid mass caused by skin aging.
The foregoing examples are illustrative only and serve to explain some features of the method of the application. The appended claims are intended to claim the broadest possible scope and the embodiments presented herein are merely illustrative of selected implementations based on combinations of all possible embodiments. It is, therefore, not the intention of the applicant that the appended claims be limited by the choice of examples illustrating the features of the application. Some numerical ranges used in the claims also include sub-ranges within which variations in these ranges should also be construed as being covered by the appended claims where possible.
Claims (10)
1. Use of a composition comprising octanoylglycine and undecenoylglycine for improving skin barrier.
2. The use according to claim 1, wherein the mass ratio of octanoylglycine to undecenoylglycine in the composition is (1:10) - (15:1).
3. The use of claim 1, wherein the composition further comprises a co-solvent comprising one or more of phenoxyethanol, octylglycol, and ethylhexyl glycerol.
4. A composition comprising capryl glycine and undecylenoyl glycine.
5. The composition of claim 4, wherein the mass ratio of octanoylglycine to undecenoylglycine is (1:10) - (15:1).
6. The composition of claim 5, further comprising a co-solvent comprising one or more of phenoxyethanol, octylglycol, and ethylhexyl glycerol.
7. The composition of claim 6, wherein the total content of the cosolvent, octanoylglycine and undecylenoylglycine is 100wt%, wherein the content of octanoylglycine is 1wt% to 15wt% and the content of undecylenoylglycine is 1wt% to 10wt%.
8. A skin care product comprising a composition according to any one of claims 4 to 7.
9. The skin care product according to claim 8, wherein the formulation of the skin care product is any one of cream, emulsion, aqueous solution, oil or gel.
10. The skin care product of claim 9 wherein the composition is present in an amount of 1 wt.% to 5 wt.%.
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| CN109330947A (en) * | 2018-12-03 | 2019-02-15 | 陈洁珍 | A kind of oil control and acne removal toner and preparation method thereof |
| CN111529444A (en) * | 2020-05-25 | 2020-08-14 | 湖北省麦诗特生物科技有限公司 | Composition with skin barrier repair function and preparation method and application thereof |
| CN111728911A (en) * | 2020-07-08 | 2020-10-02 | 广州天芝丽实业有限公司 | Oil-control acne-removing moisturizing plant mite-removing deep-layer skin-cleaning facial cleanser and preparation process thereof |
| CN116172888A (en) * | 2022-12-21 | 2023-05-30 | 陕西畅想制药有限公司 | Composition containing amino acid derivatives for regulating skin microecology |
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Patent Citations (4)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| CN109330947A (en) * | 2018-12-03 | 2019-02-15 | 陈洁珍 | A kind of oil control and acne removal toner and preparation method thereof |
| CN111529444A (en) * | 2020-05-25 | 2020-08-14 | 湖北省麦诗特生物科技有限公司 | Composition with skin barrier repair function and preparation method and application thereof |
| CN111728911A (en) * | 2020-07-08 | 2020-10-02 | 广州天芝丽实业有限公司 | Oil-control acne-removing moisturizing plant mite-removing deep-layer skin-cleaning facial cleanser and preparation process thereof |
| CN116172888A (en) * | 2022-12-21 | 2023-05-30 | 陕西畅想制药有限公司 | Composition containing amino acid derivatives for regulating skin microecology |
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