CN116172888A - Composition containing amino acid derivatives for regulating skin microecology - Google Patents
Composition containing amino acid derivatives for regulating skin microecology Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- CN116172888A CN116172888A CN202211648008.XA CN202211648008A CN116172888A CN 116172888 A CN116172888 A CN 116172888A CN 202211648008 A CN202211648008 A CN 202211648008A CN 116172888 A CN116172888 A CN 116172888A
- Authority
- CN
- China
- Prior art keywords
- glucoside
- amino acid
- micelle system
- mixed micelle
- acid derivative
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
- Granted
Links
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- 239000000203 mixture Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 40
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- 239000000693 micelle Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 55
- -1 octanoyl glycine Chemical compound 0.000 claims abstract description 43
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Classifications
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
- A61K8/44—Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
- A61K8/0291—Micelles
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/60—Sugars; Derivatives thereof
- A61K8/602—Glycosides, e.g. rutin
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
- A61K2800/59—Mixtures
- A61K2800/592—Mixtures of compounds complementing their respective functions
- A61K2800/5922—At least two compounds being classified in the same subclass of A61K8/18
-
- Y—GENERAL TAGGING OF NEW TECHNOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENTS; GENERAL TAGGING OF CROSS-SECTIONAL TECHNOLOGIES SPANNING OVER SEVERAL SECTIONS OF THE IPC; TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC CROSS-REFERENCE ART COLLECTIONS [XRACs] AND DIGESTS
- Y02—TECHNOLOGIES OR APPLICATIONS FOR MITIGATION OR ADAPTATION AGAINST CLIMATE CHANGE
- Y02A—TECHNOLOGIES FOR ADAPTATION TO CLIMATE CHANGE
- Y02A50/00—TECHNOLOGIES FOR ADAPTATION TO CLIMATE CHANGE in human health protection, e.g. against extreme weather
- Y02A50/30—Against vector-borne diseases, e.g. mosquito-borne, fly-borne, tick-borne or waterborne diseases whose impact is exacerbated by climate change
Landscapes
- Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
- Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
- Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
- General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
- Public Health (AREA)
- Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
- Birds (AREA)
- Epidemiology (AREA)
- Dermatology (AREA)
- Cosmetics (AREA)
Abstract
The invention discloses a composition containing an amino acid derivative for regulating skin microecology, wherein the amino acid derivative comprises one or a combination of octanoylglycine and undecenoylglycine, and the composition further comprises glucoside. According to the technical scheme, the problem that the octanoyl glycine and/or the undecylenoyl glycine are difficult to dissolve in water is solved by compounding the glucoside with the octanoyl glycine and/or the undecylenoyl glycine. The glucoside in the composition replaces the hydrogen and reaction of chemical bonds between strong alkali and octanoyl glycine and/or undecylenoyl glycine, so that the solubility of the amino acid derivative in aqueous solution is greatly improved; in addition, the glucoside can be also used for micelle system theory in cosmetics, and when the composition is dissolved in water, a glucoside-amino acid derivative mixed micelle system can be formed, so that the solubility of octanoyl glycine and/or undecylenoyl glycine in an aqueous solution is greatly improved.
Description
Technical Field
The invention relates to the technical field of cosmetics, in particular to a composition containing amino acid derivatives for regulating skin microecology.
Background
The existence of the microecological balance of the human body surface is confirmed, and the microecology of the human body surface is in an equilibrium state under the normal condition of skin. However, under the common influence of internal and external factors of a human body, sebaceous glands and sweat glands of skin can secrete sebum and sweat, so that nutrients such as water, inorganic salts and the like are provided for resident bacteria of the human body to enable normal survival of the resident bacteria, and meanwhile, the same growth conditions are provided for pathogenic bacteria such as propionibacterium acnes, staphylococcus aureus, pseudomonas aeruginosa and the like, and the balance of original micro-ecological barriers of the skin is often disturbed by excessive reproduction of the pathogenic bacteria.
Amino acids and derivatives thereof have various effects of moisturizing, whitening and the like, and some amino acid derivatives have the effect of regulating skin microecology in addition to the effects, but because most of the amino acid derivatives are insoluble in water, strong alkali is usually selected for neutralization to improve the solubility of the amino acid derivatives, the pH of the amino acid derivatives is raised after the neutralization, the amino acid derivatives are strong in ionic property, the application concentration of the amino acid derivatives is greatly reduced, and the amino acid derivatives are difficult to apply to dosage forms with low viscosity.
The foregoing is merely provided to facilitate an understanding of the principles of the invention and is not admitted to be prior art.
Disclosure of Invention
The invention mainly aims to provide a composition containing an amino acid derivative for regulating skin microecology, and aims to solve the problem that the amino acid derivative is difficult to dissolve in water.
To achieve the above object, the present invention provides a composition for regulating skin micro-ecology, which contains an amino acid derivative, wherein the amino acid derivative comprises one or a combination of octanoylglycine and undecenoylglycine, and the composition further comprises glucoside.
In an embodiment, the glucoside comprises one of a glycosyl glucoside, an alkyl glucoside, or a combination thereof.
The invention also provides a mixed micelle system based on the composition, which is obtained by dissolving the composition in an aqueous solution and self-assembling.
In one embodiment, the mass ratio of the amino acid derivative to the glucoside is less than or equal to 1:3.
in one embodiment, the mass ratio of the amino acid derivative to the glucoside is (1:5) - (1:10).
In one embodiment, the amino acid derivative is present in an amount of 1wt% to 10wt%; and/or, the glucoside content is 5wt% to 70wt%; and/or the pH value of the mixed micelle system is 5.2-10.
In one embodiment, the aqueous solution includes one or more of a co-solvent, a surfactant, and a preservative.
The invention also provides application of the mixed micelle system in preparation of cosmetics.
In one embodiment, the concentration of the mixed micelle system in the cosmetic is 1g/ml to 10g/ml.
In one embodiment, the cosmetic comprises one or more of a cleansing cosmetic, an anti-acne type skin care product, an anti-dandruff type skin care product, a restoration type skin care product, and a mild type skin care product.
According to the technical scheme, the problem that the octanoyl glycine and/or the undecylenoyl glycine are difficult to dissolve in water is solved by compounding the glucoside with the octanoyl glycine and/or the undecylenoyl glycine. Glucoside is a green surfactant which can resist strong alkali and strong acid, can reduce the surface tension of the solution, has the synergistic solubilization effect, and can replace hydrogen and reaction of strong alkali and octanoyl glycine and/or undecylenoyl glycine to carry out chemical bond, so that the solubility of the amino acid derivative in the aqueous solution is greatly improved; in addition, the glucoside can be used for a micelle system theory in cosmetics, when the composition is dissolved in water, a glucoside-amino acid derivative mixed micelle system can be formed, so that the solubility of octanoyl glycine and/or undecylenoyl glycine in an aqueous solution is greatly improved, the pH value gradient of the glucoside-amino acid derivative mixed micelle system can be properly adjusted according to the weight ratio of glucoside to amino acid derivative in the composition on the premise of ensuring that the solution is not separated out, and the weak acidity to neutral pH value of the whole mixed micelle system is endowed while the solubility of the octanoyl glycine and/or undecylenoyl glycine is improved, thereby improving the mildness of the mixed micelle system and the choice of multiple product dosage forms, and expanding the application of the octanoyl glycine and/or undecylenoyl glycine in cosmetics.
Detailed Description
The following description of the embodiments of the present invention will be made clearly and completely, and it is apparent that the described embodiments are only some embodiments of the present invention, but not all embodiments. All other embodiments, which can be made by those skilled in the art based on the embodiments of the invention without making any inventive effort, are intended to be within the scope of the invention.
It should be noted that, if "and/or" is used throughout this document, it is meant to include three parallel schemes, for example, "a and/or B" including a scheme, or B scheme, or a scheme where a and B are satisfied simultaneously. In addition, the technical solutions of the embodiments may be combined with each other, but it is necessary to base that the technical solutions can be realized by those skilled in the art, and when the technical solutions are contradictory or cannot be realized, the combination of the technical solutions should be considered to be absent and not within the scope of protection claimed in the present invention. In addition, the terms "comprising," "including," "containing," "having," or other variations thereof herein are intended to cover non-closed-form inclusion without distinguishing between these terms. The term "comprising" means that other steps and ingredients may be added that do not affect the end result. The term "comprising" also includes the terms "consisting essentially of …" and "consisting essentially of …".
The raw materials and equipment used in the invention are common raw materials and equipment in the field unless specified otherwise; the methods used in the present invention are conventional in the art unless otherwise specified. Unless otherwise defined, all terms used in the specification have the same meaning as commonly understood by one of ordinary skill in the art, but are defined in the specification to be used in the event of a conflict. The compositions and methods/processes of the present invention comprise, consist of, and consist essentially of the essential elements and limitations described herein, as well as additional or optional ingredients, components, steps, or limitations of any of the embodiments described herein.
Octanoyl glycine and undecylenoyl glycine are both aliphatic chain amino acids, the structures of which are similar to natural aliphatic chain amino acids existing on human skin, can play a role in structuring the epidermis sebum structure, and have the effects of controlling oil, inhibiting bacteria, regulating skin microecological barrier repair and the like. Octanoylglycine and undecylenoylglycine are a class of mild, safe, non-irritating amino acid derivatives, both of which have oil control and antibacterial effects. Studies have shown that octanoylglycine and undecylenoylglycine have a strong inhibitory effect on common pathogenic bacteria, for example: staphylococcus aureus, streptococcus hemolyticus, escherichia coli, pseudomonas aeruginosa, and the like. The octanoylglycine and the undecylenoylglycine can be used for treating the trauma infection problem caused by physical injury, surgery and skin disease secondary infection of pets and various oral infections caused by dental caries, gingivitis, periodontitis or canker sore, herpes virus and calicivirus, can effectively improve symptoms, and achieves the effects of detumescence, analgesia, bacteriostasis and anti-inflammatory.
However, octanoylglycine and undecylenoylglycine are hardly soluble in water, and are usually neutralized with a strong base to increase their solubility, but the neutralization with a strong base increases their pH and enhances their ionic properties, greatly reducing their application concentration, making them difficult to apply to low viscosity dosage forms.
The invention provides a composition containing an amino acid derivative for regulating skin microecology, wherein the amino acid derivative comprises one or a combination of octanoylglycine and undecenoylglycine, and the composition also comprises glucoside.
The composition provided by the invention not only has the effect of regulating skin microecology, but also has the effects of cleaning and controlling oil, and can be used as a surfactant. The surfactant is a substance capable of remarkably reducing the surface tension of a target solution, and has fixed hydrophilic and lipophilic groups which are directionally arranged on the surface energy of the solution; the molecular structure of the surfactant has amphoteric properties: one end is hydrophilic group, the other end is hydrophobic group, the hydrophilic group is polar group, such as carboxylic acid, sulfonic acid, sulfuric acid, amino or amino and its salt, hydroxyl, amido, ether bond, etc. can also be used as polar hydrophilic group; whereas hydrophobic groups are often nonpolar hydrocarbon chains, such as hydrocarbon chains of more than 8 carbon atoms; the surfactant can obviously reduce the surface tension of the water and oil and has a cleaning effect. The octanoylglycine and/or undecylenoylglycine and glucoside in the compositions of the invention satisfy the surfactant definition and are attributable to the surfactant. Therefore, the composition formed by matching and combining the octanoylglycine and/or undecylenoylglycine with the glucoside can obviously reduce the surface tension of water and oil to play a role in cleaning.
According to the technical scheme, the problem that the octanoyl glycine and/or the undecylenoyl glycine are difficult to dissolve in water is solved by compounding the glucoside with the octanoyl glycine and/or the undecylenoyl glycine. The glucoside is a green surfactant which can resist strong alkali and strong acid, can reduce the surface tension of the solution, has the synergistic solubilization effect, replaces strong alkali to carry out hydrogen and reaction of chemical bonds with octanoyl glycine and/or undecylenoyl glycine in the composition, greatly improves the solubility of the amino acid derivative in the aqueous solution, and has the synergistic effect with the octanoyl glycine and/or undecylenoyl glycine, so that the composition has good amphiphilicity, and has the effects of controlling oil, inhibiting bacteria, regulating skin microecological barrier repair and the like. In addition, as the glucoside can be also used in a micelle system theory in cosmetics, when the composition is dissolved in water, a glucoside-amino acid derivative mixed micelle system can be formed, so that the solubility of octanoyl glycine and/or undecylenoyl glycine in an aqueous solution is greatly improved, and the pH value gradient of the glucoside-amino acid derivative mixed micelle system can be properly regulated according to the weight ratio of glucoside to amino acid derivative in the composition on the premise of ensuring that the solution is not separated out, and the weak acidity to neutral pH value of the whole mixed micelle system is endowed while the solubility of octanoyl glycine and/or undecylenoyl glycine is improved, thereby improving the mildness of the mixed micelle system and the multi-product dosage form selection, and expanding the application of the octanoyl glycine and/or undecylenoyl glycine in cosmetics.
The composition according to the invention, the glucosides comprise one or a combination of glycosyl glucosides, alkyl glucosides, in one embodiment xylitol glucosides, alkyl glucosides, preferably selected from C8-C16 alkyl glucosides, such as: decyl glucoside.
The sugar alcohol glucoside is a short-carbon polyhydroxy glucoside chemical structure, and because the special polyhydroxy and glucoside structure of the sugar alcohol glucoside presents weak alkalinity, the sugar alcohol glucoside has small irritation to skin, high safety and good moisturizing performance; it has been shown that sugar alcohol glucosides also have a certain promoting effect on ceramide formation and can enhance the barrier function of the skin.
Alkyl glucoside (APG) is a novel nonionic surfactant, is easy to dissolve in water, has low surface tension, rich, fine and stable foam, strong alkali and strong acid resistance and wetting power, can be compounded with various surfactants, has obvious synergistic effect, has unique properties of no toxicity, no harm, no stimulation, quick biodegradation, complete sterilization and the like, and is a green surfactant with comprehensive performance. Alkyl glucosides (APG) there are C8-C22 alkyl glucosides, but the different carbon chain lengths have different effects on their properties, and APG for cosmetic use is currently largely divided into two main classes: the C8-C16 alkyl glucoside is liquid in appearance, can be completely dissolved in water, and is alkaline (pH value is 11.5-12.5); the other is C16-C22 alkyl glucoside, which is in a solid state in appearance, insoluble but has the synergistic properties; the former is mainly used as a surfactant in cleaning and washing products, and the latter is mainly used as an emulsifier in skin care products.
The invention also provides a mixed micelle system based on the composition, which is obtained by dissolving the composition in an aqueous solution and self-assembling.
In the technical scheme of the invention, based on the similar principle of compatibility, glucoside is used as a nonionic surfactant with an amphiphilic structure, so that the capacity of a hydrocarbon core central area of a slightly soluble amino acid derivative (namely octanoylglycine and/or undecylenoylglycine) is enlarged, and the solubility of the slightly soluble amino acid derivative in an aqueous solution is improved; based on the micelle system theory in cosmetics, in the aqueous solution, the glucoside and the amino acid derivatives (namely, the octanoyl glycine and/or the undecylenoyl glycine) in the composition can be self-assembled into a glucoside-amino acid derivative mixed micelle system, and the water solubility of the octanoyl glycine and/or the undecylenoyl glycine is further increased while the physical and chemical properties of the original acyl glycine and/or the undecylenoyl glycine are not changed. And on the premise of ensuring that the solution is not precipitated, the PH value gradient of the octanoyl glycine-glucoside mixed micelle system can be properly adjusted according to the weight ratio of glucoside to amino acid derivatives in the composition, and the solubility of octanoyl glycine and/or undecylenoyl glycine can be improved, and meanwhile, the whole mixed micelle system can be endowed with weak acidity to neutrality, so that the mildness of the mixed micelle system and the choice of multi-product dosage forms are improved, and the application of the mixed micelle system in cosmetics is expanded.
According to the mixed micelle system of the present invention, the mass ratio of the amino acid derivative to the glucoside is less than or equal to 1:3, a step of; within this ratio range, there is some increase in solubility of the amino acid derivatives (i.e., octanoylglycine and/or undecenoylglycine).
Preferably, the mass ratio of the amino acid derivative to the glucoside is (1:5) - (1:10); within this ratio range, the solubility of the amino acid derivatives (i.e., octanoylglycine and/or undecenoylglycine) is greatly improved, and the pH of the mixed micelle system is maintained in the weakly acidic to neutral range.
In one embodiment, the amino acid derivative is present in an amount of 1wt%, 5wt%, 10wt%, or any value therebetween; and/or the glucoside is present in an amount of 5wt%, 25wt%, 50wt%, 70wt% or any value therebetween; and/or the PH of the mixed micelle system is 5.2, 8, 10 or any value therebetween.
According to the mixed micelle system of the present invention, the aqueous solution comprises deionized water and one or more of a cosolvent, a surfactant, a preservative or other additives, and the skilled artisan can suitably adjust the aqueous solution according to the performance requirements of the product. Both the co-solvent and the surfactant may further increase the solubility of octanoylglycine and/or undecenoylglycine in water. The surfactant is selected from other surfactants than glucoside, octanoylglycine and undecenoylglycine. The selection of the cosolvent is not particularly limited, and the cosolvent may be a cosolvent known to those skilled in the art, and may be prepared by a known method or may be commercially available. As an example, the cosolvent is selected from one or more of octanediol, propylene glycol, polyethylene glycol or 1, 2-pentanediol, 1, 3-butanediol.
The invention also provides application of the mixed micelle system in preparing cosmetics.
According to the use of the present invention, the concentration of the mixed micelle system in the cosmetic product is 1g/m l to 10g/m l, i.e. the applied concentration of the mixed micelle system is 1g/m l, 5g/m l, 10g/m l or any value in between. In the concentration range, the mixed micelle system has obvious effects of cleaning, oil control and bacteriostasis.
According to the application of the invention, the mixed micelle system can be designed into mild and skin-friendly cleansing cosmetics by utilizing the surface activity and skin-friendly property of the amino acid derivative and the C8-C16 alkyl glucoside, such as: washing products such as facial cleanser, shampoo, infant or sensitive muscle bath lotion, etc.
In one embodiment, the above mixed micelle system is used to prepare a cleanser, and the formulation is shown in the following table 1:
in the table 1, the glucoside in the mixed micelle system is C8-C16 alkyl glucoside; the polyalcohol is glycerol, diglycerol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butanediol, 1, 2-pentanediol
One or more combinations of hexanediol; the chelating agent is at least one of EDTA-disodium and sodium gluconate; the preservative is one or a combination of more of p-hydroxyacetophenone, benzoic acid and salts and esters thereof, formic acid and sodium salts thereof, benzyl alcohol, phenoxyethanol, sorbic acid and salts thereof; the thickener is one or more of xanthan gum, celluloses, carbomer and sodium salt/potassium salt thereof; the surfactant is one or a combination of more of lauroyl/cocoyl glycine/glutamic acid/sarcosine, sodium/potassium salt, sodium cocoyl methyl taurate and sodium methyl cocoyl taurate; the ester forming agent is one or a combination of a plurality of triglycerides, isononyl isononanoate and phytosterol ester; the antiallergic agent is one or more of glycyrrhizic acid and its potassium salt, bisabolol, radix Gentianae extract, and kava (P I PER METHYST I CUM) root extract; the humectant is one or more of trehalose, hyaluronic acid and its salts, lactic acid and its salts, betaine, and saccharide isomer.
According to the application of the invention, the cosmetic may also be a leave-on cosmetic; the cosmetic can be any one of acne-removing skin care products, anti-dandruff skin care products, repairing skin care products and mild skin care products by utilizing the oil control and bacteriostasis functions of the amino acid derivatives; the resident cosmetics can be in the forms of cream, spray or microcapsule.
In one embodiment, the leave-on cosmetic is formulated as a cream-type skin care product, the formulation of which is shown in table 2 below:
| mixed micelle system | 0.1-6 |
| Water and its preparation method | 48.8-96.57 |
| Polyhydric alcohols | 1-10 |
| Thickening agent | 0.1-1 |
| Preservative agent | 0.01-1 |
| Chelating agent | 0.01-0.1 |
| Emulsifying agent | 1-5 |
| Emollient(s) | 1-25 |
| Anti-allergic agent | 0.1-1 |
| Humectant type | 0.1-2 |
| Antioxidant | 0.01-0.1 |
In the above Table 2, the glucosides in the mixed micelle system are C16-C22 alkyl glucosides; the polyalcohol is one or more of glycerol, diglycerol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butanediol, 1, 2-pentanediol and hexanediol; the chelating agent is at least one of EDTA-disodium and sodium gluconate; the preservative is one or a combination of more of p-hydroxyacetophenone, benzoic acid and salts and esters thereof, formic acid and sodium salts thereof, benzyl alcohol, phenoxyethanol, sorbic acid and salts thereof; the thickener is one or more of xanthan gum, celluloses, carbomer and sodium salt/potassium salt thereof; the emollient is one or more of mineral oil, vegetable oil, semisynthetic or fully synthetic oil; the emulsifier is one or more of PEG-100 glycerol stearate, polysorbate-60, sorbitan sesquistearate, sodium stearoyl glutamate, sodium isostearoyl lactate, sodium isostearoyl lactylate, stearyl alcohol polyether and sucrose polysorbate; the antiallergic agent is one or more of glycyrrhizic acid and its potassium salt, bisabolol, radix Gentianae extract, and kava (P I PER METHYST I CUM) root extract; the humectant is one or more of trehalose, hyaluronic acid and salts thereof, lactic acid and salts thereof, betaine and saccharide isomer; the antioxidant is one or more of sodium sulfite, sodium bisulphite, sodium metabisulfite, sodium thiosulfate, ascorbic acid, tocopherol, lecithin, butylated hydroxytoluene and butylated hydroxyanisole.
Test experiment
1. Solubility test
The experimental steps are as follows: at normal temperature, octanoylglycine (CG for short) and decyl glucoside (2000 UP) with different mass ratios are matched and combined, and finally water is added to 100% by mass ratio; the pH, solubility, and stability after cooling to room temperature and illumination (90 days) at-15℃and 48℃were measured in the heated state. See table 3 below for experimental results:
from the experimental data in Table 3 above, it is known that octanoylglycine is hardly soluble in water, and decyl glucoside can improve the solubility of octanoylglycine in water, wherein the mass ratio of octanoylglycine to decyl glucoside is 1:5-1:10, the total dissolution state can be realized, the low-temperature stability is good, the pH value can reach between 5.8 and 7.4, the pH value is consistent with the pH value of human epidermis within the range of 6.5 to 7.2, the composition (or the mixed micelle system) of the invention is ensured to be mild and non-irritating, different pH values can be obtained by matching different proportions, and the application range of the composition is enlarged. And it can be deduced from this that the above experimental results can be achieved by compounding the poorly water-soluble amino acid derivatives such as octanoylglycine and undecylenylglycine with glucosides such as alkyl glucosides and sugar alcohol glucosides.
2. Safety test
(1) Experimental principle: the patch test is a reaction process of reproducing allergic contact dermatitis on the local skin, i.e., after a small amount of allergen is directly contacted with the skin, it is observed whether mild dermatitis is locally induced, thereby judging whether the skin is allergic to the allergen tested.
(2) Experimental samples: the mixed micelle system of the invention: 80wt% of water, 18wt% of decyl glucoside and 2wt% of octanoyl glycine.
(3) The experimental method comprises the following steps: a. a total of 40 volunteers were selected for safety testing, 20 men and 20 women, aged 25-45 years, meeting the volunteer selection criteria of the subject. b. Volunteers performed patch tests on mixed micelle systems: and (3) taking 0.02mL of each sample to be tested in different reaction tanks of the spot tester, applying the spot tester to normal skin on two sides of the spine of the upper back of a subject by using a special adhesive tape, and removing the tester after 24 hours. c. After 20 min, skin reaction was observed after the disappearance of the indentation, and the skin to be tested was evaluated according to the following evaluation method.
(4) The evaluation method comprises the following steps: negative (-): the applied part does not react, or only the adhesive tape adhered part turns red, but the center is not red; (Shi) suspicious: itching at the test site or only faint (unclear) erythema; (+) weak positive, erythema, infiltration, papule; positive in (+): pimple, itching is evident; (+ ++ + strong). Positive: red swelling and scars.
See table 4 below for experimental results:
from the data in Table 4 above, the mixed micelle system of the present invention is mild to the skin, non-irritating, and safe to use.
3. Cleaning and oil control efficacy test
(1) Experimental principle: the development of sebaceous glands and the synthesis and secretion of sebum are regulated by androgens, 5-alpha reductase is an important androgen metabolism enzyme in skin, testosterone can be irreversibly converted into Dihydrotestosterone (DHT), and DHT is the strongest androgen, and can induce excessive bleeding lipids of sebaceous glands. Reducing DHT levels by inhibiting 5-alpha reductase activity is an important way to alleviate sebaceous gland hypersecretion of lipids.
(2) The experimental method comprises the following steps: and detecting the inhibition rate of the sample to the 5-alpha reductase by using a double-antibody sandwich method and a 5-alpha reductase evaluation-in-vitro model. The sample employs a mixed micelle system of caprylylglycine and decyl glucoside at a concentration of 0.1% by mass, and the inhibitor that may be present inhibits 5-alpha reductase activity. After unbound material is washed away, the still active 5-alpha reductase is combined with the HRP-labeled enzyme-labeled reagent, unbound material is washed away again, the color development liquid is added for color development, and the absorbance value is tested by an enzyme-labeled instrument after the reaction is stopped. Control (30 ng/mL finasteride), blank, are also provided. The inhibition effect of the sample on 5-alpha reductase was evaluated by comparing the analytical test data.
(3) The experimental steps are as follows: sample pretreatment, preparing an experimental reagent; adding a sample and 5-alpha reductase into corresponding holes of a sample group and a control group, incubating for 30 min at 37 ℃, washing and beating; adding enzyme-labeled reagent into corresponding holes of the sample group and the control group, incubating for 30 min at 37 ℃, washing and drying; adding a chromogenic reagent into all the holes, and developing color at 37 ℃ for 10 min; and adding a stop solution, testing the OD value at 450nm in 15mi by using an enzyme-labeled instrument, and calculating the inhibition rate of the 5-alpha reductase activity.
See table 5 below for experimental results:
| project | Blank sample | Sample group | Positive reference sample |
| Inhibition of 5α -reductase | 0％ | 50％ | 45％ |
As is clear from Table 5, the mixed micelle system of the present invention has an inhibition rate of 50% to 5-alpha reductase activity, and the mixed micelle system composed of octanoylglycine and decyl glucoside has an excellent oil control effect according to the correlation between 5-alpha reductase and oil control.
4. Skin regulating micro-ecological barrier test
(1) Experimental principle: the microecological barrier is the inhibition of pathogenic bacteria by symbiotic microorganisms on the surface of the skin, and the existence of the microecological barrier can avoid skin diseases caused by pathogenic bacteria reproduction. Three bacteria (pseudomonas aeruginosa, staphylococcus aureus and escherichia coli) and one fungus (aspergillus niger) are common harmful pathogenic bacteria in cosmetics and skin, and the inhibition effect of the mixed micelle system provided by the invention on the three pathogenic bacteria and the fungus aspergillus niger can be tested to prove that the composition can regulate the skin microecological barrier. The bacteriostasis circle method is a horizontal diffusion method, and the basic principle is that a small amount of antibacterial substances or bactericides are applied to an agar culture medium inoculated with test bacteria so as to contact the culture medium and the bacteria, and after the agar culture medium is cultured for a certain time at a fixed temperature, the bacteria are killed around the application part due to the permeation diffusion effect of the medicines, so that the growth of the bacteria on the culture medium is inhibited, and the bacteriostasis circle is generated.
(2) The experimental method comprises the following steps: according to the cosmetic detection standard and the bacteriostasis circle test method, a sample group (a mixed micelle system prepared from 2% octanoylglycine, 18% decyl glucoside and 80% sterile water) is adopted for respectively treating three pathogenic bacteria: pseudomonas aeruginosa (Pseudomonas aeruginosa), staphylococcus aureus, escherichia coli and a fungus (Aspergillus niger) were tested by antibacterial experiments; sterile water was used as a blank.
(3) Experimental procedure
a. Preparing a bacterial culture medium: lecithin tween 80 nutrient agar medium: 20g of peptone, 3g of beef extract powder, 5g of sodium chloride, 1g of lecithin, 7g of tween 80 and 15g of agar (pH 7.1-7.4); fungus medium: sand agar medium: 10g of peptone, 40g of glucose, 20g of agar and 0.1g of chloramphenicol; sterile pipettes (or syringes), disc filters (diameter 100 mm), sterile water with glass beads, triangular flasks, forceps, inoculating needles (loops), agar medium in the molten state (preferably incubated in a 45 ℃ water bath), composition reagents, three bacteria for testing and one fungus.
b. The strain on the inclined surface of each test tube is picked up by an inoculating loop and put into sterile water with glass beads, and the strain is evenly dispersed by shaking for a few minutes by hand, and is filtered to prepare mixed suspension.
c. Each dish was filled with 0.5mL of the mixed suspension at a given concentration using a sterile pipette (or syringe).
d. 15ml of melted agar medium (about 45C) was poured into each dish, and the bacterial liquid was mixed with the medium uniformly until it cooled.
e. The wafer filter paper is soaked in the reagents of the sample group and the blank group for a while by using forceps, taken out and placed in the center of the bacteria-carrying culture medium plate, and covered with a cover.
f. Culturing for 2-3 d at proper temperature, and observing the existence and the size of the bacteriostasis ring around the filter paper disc.
See table 6 below for experimental results:
| sample group | Diameter of inhibition zone (mm) | Blank control group | Diameter of inhibition zone (mm) |
| Coli bacterium | 24.7 | Coli bacterium | No bacteriostasis ring |
| Staphylococcus aureus | 22.2 | Staphylococcus aureus | No bacteriostasis ring |
| Pseudomonas aeruginosa | 24.4 | Pseudomonas aeruginosa | No bacteriostasis ring |
| Aspergillus niger | 22.9 | Aspergillus niger | No bacteriostasis ring |
From the data in the above table 6, it is known that the mixed micelle system of the present invention has a certain antibacterial effect on escherichia coli, staphylococcus aureus, pseudomonas aeruginosa and aspergillus niger; wherein, the antibacterial effect on the escherichia coli is most remarkable, and the diameter of the antibacterial ring is up to 24.7mm; the antibacterial effect on pseudomonas aeruginosa is remarkable, and the diameter of the antibacterial ring reaches 24.4mm; has inhibiting effect on staphylococcus aureus, and the diameter of the inhibition zone is 22.2mm; the antibacterial effect on Aspergillus niger is relatively low, and the diameter of the antibacterial ring is up to 22.9mm; therefore, it can be inferred that the mixed micelle system of the present invention has an effect of regulating the skin microecological barrier.
The foregoing examples are illustrative only and serve to explain some features of the method of the invention. The appended claims are intended to claim the broadest possible scope and the embodiments presented herein are merely illustrative of selected implementations based on combinations of all possible embodiments. It is, therefore, not the intention of the applicant that the appended claims be limited by the choice of examples illustrating the features of the invention. Some numerical ranges used in the claims also include sub-ranges within which variations in these ranges should also be construed as being covered by the appended claims where possible.
Claims (10)
1. A composition comprising an amino acid derivative for modulating skin micro-ecology, wherein the amino acid derivative comprises one or a combination of octanoylglycine and undecenoylglycine, and the composition further comprises a glucoside.
2. The composition of claim 1, wherein the glucoside comprises one of a sugar alcohol-based glucoside, an alkyl glucoside, or a combination thereof.
3. A mixed micelle system based on the composition according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that it is obtained by self-assembly by dissolving the composition in an aqueous solution.
4. The mixed micelle system of claim 3 in which the mass ratio of the amino acid derivative to the glucoside is less than or equal to 1:3.
5. the mixed micelle system as in claim 4 in which the mass ratio of the amino acid derivative to the glucoside is (1:5) - (1:10).
6. The mixed micelle system of claim 3 in which the amino acid derivative is present in an amount of 1wt% to 10wt%; and/or, the glucoside content is 5wt% to 70wt%; and/or the pH value of the mixed micelle system is 5.2-10.
7. The mixed micelle system of any of claims 3 to 6 in which the aqueous solution comprises one or more of a co-solvent, a surfactant, a preservative.
8. Use of the mixed micelle system according to any one of claims 3 to 7 for the preparation of cosmetics.
9. The use according to claim 8, wherein the concentration of the mixed micelle system in the cosmetic is 1g/ml to 10g/ml.
10. The use according to claim 8, wherein the cosmetic comprises one or more of a cleansing cosmetic, an anti-acne skin care product, an anti-dandruff skin care product, a restorative skin care product, a mild skin care product.
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