CN111939116A

CN111939116A - Anti-aging composition and preparation method thereof

Info

Publication number: CN111939116A
Application number: CN202010830454.7A
Authority: CN
Inventors: 谢坤; 吴超; 张永雪; 刘浩; 唐如辉
Original assignee: Dongshengyuan Research Institute Guangzhou Co Ltd
Current assignee: Dongshengyuan Research Institute Guangzhou Co Ltd
Priority date: 2020-08-18
Filing date: 2020-08-18
Publication date: 2020-11-17

Abstract

The invention relates to the technical field of cosmetics, in particular to an anti-aging composition and a preparation method thereof. The effective active substance is a composition of more than two of hydroxy pinacolone retinoic acid ester, nicotinamide, hypecol stem cell, methylsilanol hydroxyproline ester aspartic acid ester. The product has the effects of whitening, promoting collagen generation, lightening wrinkles and the like through the cooperation of the efficacy active substances and the antioxidant, and the efficacy active substances can start from the surface layer, the horny layer and the dermis layer of the skin to achieve the effects of lightening the wrinkles of the epidermis and stimulating the collagen generation by the dermis, so that the anti-aging effect is remarkable under the condition of two ways, and the anti-aging cosmetic has a good anti-aging effect and can meet the requirement of people on the anti-aging effect of the cosmetic. The preparation method has the characteristics of simple process, low production cost and suitability for industrial production.

Description

Anti-aging composition and preparation method thereof

Technical Field

The invention relates to the technical field of cosmetics, in particular to an anti-aging composition and a preparation method thereof.

Background

With the increasing living standard of people, in recent years, although the average life of human beings is longer and longer, the human beings always face an unavoidable condition, namely aging. Aging is a natural phenomenon and an irreversible phenomenon, and is a necessary stage of life even though you are reluctant. The skin has various problems such as wrinkles, sagging, spots, dullness, etc. with the lapse of time. The aging is caused by endogenous factors and exogenous factors, wherein the endogenous factors refer to changes in the human body, such as free radicals, collagen loss, glycation reaction and the like. Exogenous factors refer to ultraviolet irradiation, wherein UVA in the ultraviolet rays accelerates the degradation of collagen, simultaneously increases a large number of free radicals and further accelerates the withering of cells. However, people want to slow down aging, so people want to achieve the purpose of slowing down aging by using various cosmetics. The following functional raw materials are commonly available in the market to achieve the purpose of delaying senility.

Materials with moisturizing and skin barrier repairing effects, such as glycerol, allantoin, sodium pyrrolidone carboxylate, ceramide, hyaluronic acid, etc.

Materials for promoting cell proliferation and metabolism, such as various cell growth factors, tretinoin, tartaric acid, elastin, etc.

Antioxidant materials such as vitamin C, vitamin E, SOD superoxide dismutase, coenzyme Q10, procyanidins, metallothionein, etc.

Sunscreen raw materials, various sunscreens with physical and chemical sunscreen functions.

Various Chinese herbal extracts, such as Ginseng radix, Scutellariae radix, herba Gynostemmatis, Ganoderma, fructus Hippophae, and semen Ginkgo.

At present, the anti-aging cosmetics on the market mainly adopt the listed raw materials to carry out simple combination to achieve the aim of anti-aging, and are single, strong in irritation and poor in anti-aging effect.

Disclosure of Invention

One of the objectives of the present invention is to provide an anti-aging composition, which has safety and good anti-aging effect, in view of the deficiencies of the prior art.

The second purpose of the present invention is to provide a method for preparing an anti-aging composition.

In order to achieve one of the purposes, the invention adopts the following technical scheme:

the anti-aging composition comprises the following raw materials in percentage by weight:

the functional active substance is a composition of more than two of hydroxy pinacolone retinoic acid ester, nicotinamide, hypecol stem cells and methylsilanol hydroxyproline ester aspartic acid ester.

Preferably, the emulsifier is one or a combination of more than two of glyceryl stearate, PEG-100 stearate, methyl glucose sesquistearate, PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquistearate, lanolin alcohol polyether-25 and potassium cetyl phosphate.

Preferably, the oil and fat is one or a combination of more than two of olive oil, caprylic/capric triglyceride, cocoa butter, polydimethylsiloxane, meadowfoam seed oil, shea butter, isopropyl myristate and hydrogenated polyisobutene.

Preferably, the thickening agent is one or a composition of more than two of xanthan gum, cetearyl alcohol, carbomer and sodium acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer.

Preferably, the humectant is one or a combination of more than two of glycerin, propylene glycol, butanediol, dipropylene glycol, glyceryl polyether-26, sodium hyaluronate, trehalose, allantoin, polyglutamic acid and betaine.

Preferably, the antioxidant is one or a combination of two of tocopherol and rosemary leaf extract.

Preferably, the preservative is one or a combination of more than two of 1, 2-pentanediol, p-hydroxyacetophenone, 1, 2-hexanediol, caprylic hydroxamic acid, phenoxyethanol and glyceryl caprylate.

In order to achieve the second purpose, the invention adopts the following technical scheme:

a method for preparing an anti-aging composition is provided, which comprises the following steps:

step one, mixing an emulsifier, grease and an antioxidant in a formula amount, heating, and uniformly stirring to obtain a mixture I for later use;

step two, mixing the humectant and the thickener according to the formula ratio, heating, and uniformly stirring to obtain a mixture II for later use;

step three, adding the mixture I into the mixture II, homogenizing, then stirring in vacuum, and cooling after stirring to obtain a mixture III;

and step four, adding the efficacy active substances, the preservative and the water in the formula amount into the mixture III and uniformly stirring to obtain the anti-aging composition.

In the technical scheme, in the first step, the emulsifier, the grease and the antioxidant in the formula amount are mixed, heated to 75-80 ℃, and uniformly stirred to obtain a first mixture for later use;

in the second step, the humectant and the thickener in the formula amount are mixed, heated to 75-80 ℃, and uniformly stirred to obtain a second mixture for later use;

in the third step, the mixture I is added into the mixture II, the mixture II is homogenized for 3min to 8min, then the mixture is stirred at low speed in vacuum for 10min to 20min, and the temperature is reduced to 38 ℃ to 42 ℃ after the stirring is finished, so that a mixture III is obtained; wherein the homogenizing speed is 2500rpm to 3000rpm, the low-speed vacuum stirring speed is 50rpm to 70rpm, and the vacuum degree is-0.06 Mpa to-0.08 Mpa.

In the above technical scheme, in the third step, the cooling speed is 1 ℃/min.

Compared with the prior art, the invention has the beneficial effects that:

(1) the anti-aging composition provided by the invention achieves an excellent anti-aging effect through the synergistic effect of an efficacy active substance and an antioxidant, wherein the efficacy active substance is a composition of more than two of hydroxyppinacolone retinoic acid ester, nicotinamide, hypsizygus marmoreus stem cells and methylsilanol hydroxyproline ester aspartic acid ester, and the antioxidant is one or two of tocopherol and rosemary leaf extract. The hydroxy pinacolone retinoic acid ester is a derivative of retinoic acid, can achieve the purposes of resisting aging, promoting the generation of collagen, lightening epidermal pigments, preventing skin aging and whitening and lightening wrinkles by stimulating the formation of glycosaminoglycan (GAGs), is a composite protein supporting collagen and elastin, is the key for keeping skin tight and young, and in addition, the hydroxy pinacolone retinoic acid ester greatly reduces the stimulation while ensuring the strong efficacy of retinol, so that the hydroxy pinacolone retinoic acid ester has a good anti-aging effect. Wherein the Craiegus pinnatifida stem cells contain plant intact components, are rich in various lipids, phenolic compounds, saccharides and polyhydroxy substances, and have effects of regulating pigmentation, moisturizing, enhancing antioxidant protection, resisting glycation, and stimulating skin healing. Moreover, the hypecoum japonicum stem cells have the unique effects of improving skin luster, improving skin compactness and resisting free radicals. Wherein, the nicotinamide belongs to the traditional whitening raw materials and has certain improvement effect on the color deposition caused by skin aging. Among them, methylsilanol hydroxyproline aspartate contains hydroxyproline groups which are one of the important raw materials for collagen formation by fibroblasts, and contains silanol groups which contribute to collagen formation and help skin repair and regeneration. The methylsilanol hydroxyproline ester aspartate can promote the generation of high-quality collagen, resist aging, remove wrinkles, effectively prevent and reduce striae gravidarum, is favorable for fading new scars, can improve the microcirculation of skin (particularly around eyes and on the face), effectively reduces dark circles and edema, and compacts the skin. Wherein, the main effects of the tocopherol and the rosemary leaf extract are antioxidation, and the existence of free radicals can be effectively reduced. The invention solves several problems of endogenous factors respectively through the synergistic effect of the efficacy active substance and the antioxidant: the tocopherol and/or rosemary antioxidant solves the problem of free radicals, the hydroxyppinacolone retinoic acid ester and methylsilanol hydroxyproline aspartate both have the effect of promoting the generation of collagen, the problem of collagen loss can be well solved synergistically, the anti-saccharification effect of the hypecol stem cells slows down the saccharification reaction of skin, the probability of changing effective protein into ineffective protein is reduced, and the nicotinamide further promotes the whitening effect. In conclusion, the product has the effects of whitening, promoting collagen generation, lightening wrinkles and the like through the cooperation of the efficacy active substances and the antioxidant, and the aging condition is most visually shown on the skin of a human body, namely, the skin is dark, loose and wrinkled, so that the product has a good anti-aging effect and can meet the requirement of people on the anti-aging efficacy of cosmetics.

(2) The anti-aging composition provided by the invention contains the effective active substances which can start from the surface layer, the horny layer and the dermis layer of the skin, so that the effects of lightening the lines of the epidermis and stimulating the generation of collagen by the dermis are achieved, and the anti-aging effect is obvious under the condition of two channels. The invention has good anti-aging effect for groups with wrinkles and loose skin, is mild and has no toxic or side effect, and meets the use requirements of people.

(3) According to the preparation method of the anti-aging composition, the anti-aging composition with safety and good anti-aging effect can be finally obtained through the four preparation steps, and the preparation method has the characteristics of simple process, low production cost and suitability for large-scale production.

Detailed Description

In order to make the technical problems, technical solutions and advantageous effects solved by the present invention more apparent, the present invention is further described in detail below with reference to the following embodiments. It should be understood that the specific embodiments described herein are merely illustrative of the invention and are not intended to limit the invention.

The hydroxy pinacolone retinoic acid ester used in the embodiment of the present invention is selected from a product with a trade name of GRANACTIVE RETINOID, called super-vitamin a for short, which is a product of national biotechnology limited, or tauto trade limited, guangzhou, and the super-vitamin a is a derivative of tretinoin.

The hypecoum acutum stem cells used in the embodiments of the present invention are selected from the group consisting of the agents of the Potentilla cantoniensis company, Guangzhou, under the trademark CELTOMOME^TMCrithmum maritimum feedstock, chinese INCI: crithmum MARITIMUM (Crithmum MARITIMUM) callus culture filtrate. The raw material is hypecoum dry cell cultured by a BIOTECH Marine company located in the island of Bronstani through a unique patent technology.

Wherein the methylsilanol hydroxyproline ester aspartate used in the examples of the present invention is selected from Hydroxyprolisiliane C, a member of the Profibo company, Guangzhou

Raw materials.

The rosemary leaf extract used in the embodiment of the invention is selected from raw materials sold by the industrial company of Jianming in the United states under the trademark Rosamox, Chinese INCI: sunflower seed oil and rosemary leaf extract.

Wherein, the water used in the embodiment of the invention is deionized water.

Example 1.

An anti-aging composition comprises the following raw materials in percentage by weight:

the preparation method of the anti-aging composition comprises the following steps:

step one, mixing glyceryl stearate, potassium cetyl phosphate, olive oil, cocoa butter, polydimethylsiloxane, cetearyl alcohol, caprylic/capric triglyceride, meadowfoam seed oil and tocopherol, heating to 78 ℃, and uniformly stirring to obtain a first mixture for later use;

step two, mixing glycerol, butanediol, sodium hyaluronate, trehalose and xanthan gum, heating to 78 ℃ to obtain a mixture II, and uniformly stirring for later use;

step three, adding the mixture I into the mixture II, homogenizing for 5min, then stirring at low speed in vacuum for 15min, and cooling to 40 ℃ after stirring to obtain a mixture III; wherein the homogenizing speed is 2800rpm, the low-speed vacuum stirring speed is 60rpm, and the vacuum degree is-0.07 Mpa; in this embodiment, the cooling rate is 1 ℃/min;

and step four, adding p-hydroxyacetophenone, 1, 2-hexanediol, hydroxy pinacolone retinoic acid ester, hypecol stem cells, nicotinamide and water into the mixture III, and uniformly stirring to obtain the anti-aging composition.

Example 2.

mixing PEG-100 stearate, potassium cetyl phosphate, olive oil, shea butter, polydimethylsiloxane, cetostearyl alcohol, caprylic/capric triglyceride, meadowfoam seed oil and rosemary leaf extract, heating to 75 ℃, and uniformly stirring to obtain a first mixture for later use;

step two, mixing glycerol, glyceryl polyether-26, polyglutamic acid, betaine and xanthan gum, heating to 75 ℃, and uniformly stirring to obtain a mixture II for later use;

step three, adding the mixture I into the mixture II, homogenizing for 3min, then stirring at low speed in vacuum for 10min, and cooling to 38 ℃ after stirring to obtain a mixture III; wherein the homogenizing speed is 2500rpm, the low-speed vacuum stirring speed is 50rpm, and the vacuum degree is-0.06 Mpa; in this embodiment, the cooling rate is 1 ℃/min;

and step four, adding 1, 2-pentanediol, 1, 2-hexanediol, hydroxy pinacolone retinoic acid ester, methylsilanol hydroxyproline ester aspartic acid ester, nicotinamide and water into the mixture III, and uniformly stirring to obtain the anti-aging composition.

Example 3.

mixing methyl glucose sesquistearate, PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquistearate, olive oil, shea butter, polydimethylsiloxane, cetostearyl alcohol, caprylic/capric triglyceride, meadowfoam seed oil and tocopherol, heating to 80 ℃, and uniformly stirring to obtain a mixture I for later use;

step two, mixing glycerol, propylene glycol, sodium hyaluronate, betaine and xanthan gum, heating to 80 ℃, and uniformly stirring to obtain a mixture II for later use;

step three, adding the mixture I into the mixture II, homogenizing for 8min, then stirring at low speed in vacuum for 20min, and cooling to 42 ℃ after stirring to obtain a mixture III; wherein the homogenizing speed is 3000rpm, the low-speed vacuum stirring speed is 70rpm, and the vacuum degree is-0.08 Mpa; in this embodiment, the cooling rate is 1 ℃/min;

and step four, adding 1, 2-pentanediol, 1, 2-hexanediol, hydroxy pinacolone retinoic acid ester, hypsizygus marmoreus stem cells, methylsilanol hydroxyproline ester aspartic acid ester and water into the mixture III, and uniformly stirring to obtain the anti-aging composition.

Example 4.

wherein the effective active substance is a composition of more than two of hydroxy pinacolone retinoic acid ester, nicotinamide, hypecol stem cell, and methylsilanol hydroxyproline ester aspartic acid ester.

Wherein the emulsifier is one or more of glyceryl stearate, PEG-100 stearate, methyl glucose sesquistearate, PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquistearate, lanolin alcohol polyether-25, and potassium cetyl phosphate.

Wherein the oil is one or more of olive oil, caprylic/capric triglyceride, cacao butter, polydimethylsiloxane, chinaroot greenbrier seed oil, shea butter, isopropyl myristate, and hydrogenated polyisobutene.

Wherein the thickener is one or more of xanthan gum, cetearyl alcohol, carbomer and sodium acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer.

Wherein the humectant is one or a composition of more than two of glycerol, propylene glycol, butanediol, dipropylene glycol, glyceryl polyether-26, sodium hyaluronate, trehalose, allantoin, polyglutamic acid and betaine.

Wherein the antioxidant is one or a combination of two of tocopherol and rosemary leaf extract.

Wherein the antiseptic is one or more of 1, 2-pentanediol, p-hydroxyacetophenone, 1, 2-hexanediol, caprylic hydroxamic acid, phenoxyethanol, and glyceryl caprylate.

step one, mixing an emulsifier, grease and an antioxidant in a formula amount, heating to 75-80 ℃, and uniformly stirring to obtain a mixture I for later use;

step two, mixing the humectant and the thickener according to the formula ratio, heating to 75-80 ℃, and uniformly stirring to obtain a mixture II for later use;

step three, adding the mixture I into the mixture II, homogenizing for 8min, then stirring at low speed in vacuum for 20min, and cooling to 42 ℃ after stirring to obtain a mixture III; wherein the homogenizing speed is 3000rpm, the low-speed vacuum stirring speed is 70rpm, and the vacuum degree is-0.08 Mpa; wherein the cooling speed is 1 ℃/min;

Blank comparative example 1.

The blank comparison composition comprises the following raw materials in percentage by weight:

the preparation method of the blank comparison composition comprises the following steps:

mixing methyl glucose sesquistearate, PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquistearate, olive oil, shea butter, polydimethylsiloxane, cetostearyl alcohol, caprylic/capric triglyceride, meadowfoam seed oil and tocopherol, and heating to 75-80 ℃ to obtain a first mixture for later use.

And step two, mixing glycerol, propylene glycol, sodium hyaluronate, betaine and xanthan gum, and heating to 75-80 ℃ to obtain a mixture II for later use.

Step three, adding the mixture I into the mixture II, homogenizing for 3-8 min, then stirring at low speed in vacuum for 10-20 min, and cooling to 38-42 ℃ after stirring to obtain a mixture III; wherein the homogenizing speed is 2500 rpm-3000 rpm, the low-speed vacuum stirring speed is 50 rpm-70 rpm, and the vacuum degree is-0.06 Mpa-0.08 Mpa; wherein the cooling speed is 1 ℃/min;

step four, adding 1, 2-pentanediol, 1, 2-hexanediol and water into the mixture three and stirring uniformly to obtain a blank comparison composition.

Experimental testing

First, physicochemical index test

The physical and chemical index tests were carried out on the anti-aging compositions prepared in examples 1 to 3 according to QB/T1857 (O/W type), and the results were as follows:

1. appearance: all are white paste;

2. pH value: 5.5-6.5;

3. and (3) investigating heat resistance stability: keeping the temperature at (40 +/-1) ℃ for 24 hours, and recovering the room temperature without oil-water separation to be qualified;

4. and (3) cold resistance stability investigation: keeping the temperature at (-8 +/-2) deg.C for 24h, and recovering to room temperature without oil-water separation.

Second, efficacy test

Efficacy tests, including skin texture tests and skin anti-wrinkle tests, were performed on the anti-aging compositions prepared in examples 1-3 and the blank comparative composition prepared in blank comparative example 1, respectively, according to the following specific protocol:

1. experimental products: examples 1-3 and blank comparative example 1;

2. test population and age: 60 wrinkled persons with the average age of 35-45 years old. Among them, 20 men and 40 women had no skin surface damage.

3. The test requirements are as follows: the test sample can be matched with a test well, and the test sample is regularly used according to requirements, so that the wrinkle is obvious to the naked eye.

Skin texture testing

1. The anti-aging compositions of examples 1-3 and the blank comparative composition of blank comparative example 1 were taken.

2. The left and right cheekbones of the face, the left and right cheeks at the intersection of the nose tip and the pupil, and the left and right sides at the intersection of the temple and the mouth corner of the subject were selected as the test areas.

3. Skin texture was first determined by a technician using a Skin image analysis system (Skin visualizer SV600) at the experimental site before applying examples 1-3 and blank comparative example 1, respectively, five times per spot and averaged.

4. Subjects after successive four weeks of use of the cosmetics of examples 1-3 and blank ratio 1, Skin texture was tested using a Skin image analysis system (Skin visualizer SV600 equipment model).

5. The skin texture improvement efficacy of the cosmetics of examples 1-3 and blank comparative example 1 was determined by counting the number of test sites of the subjects and analyzing the change in skin texture (each subject was measured by the same technician each time.)

(II) anti-wrinkle experiment on human skin

The anti-wrinkle test of human skin is the most direct method for testing the anti-wrinkle effect.

The cosmetic products of examples 1 to 3 and blank comparative example 1 were used by a group of test persons under the direction of the skilled person, and then the change in the elasticity value of the applied part was measured using a skin elasticity tester (current meter dual MPA 580). Wherein each subject is measured by the same technician each time.

1. The cosmetics of examples 1-3 and blank comparative example 1 were taken.

3. The gel is applied twice a day in the morning and at night, and the photo before application is used as a control. During the test, the subject was unable to apply any other cosmetic.

4. The skin elasticity values before and after use were counted after the subjects continued to use the cosmetics of examples 1 to 3 and the blank comparative example for four weeks.

5. And counting the values measured at each time of the experimental part of the subject, and analyzing the skin elasticity change rule of the subject to evaluate the skin elasticity change condition of the subject.

After four weeks (28 days) of continuous use of the product, the data were as shown in tables 1 and 2.

The skin texture test results are given in table 1 below:

table 1 skin texture test data table for examples 1-3 and blank comparative example 1 products

The results of the anti-wrinkle test on human skin are shown in the following table 2:

TABLE 2 data table for anti-wrinkle test on human skin for products of examples 1-3 and blank comparative example 1

Therefore, as can be seen from the above two data tables, examples 1-3 are superior to blank comparative example 1 in both skin texture test and human skin wrinkle resistance test. From the test data, it can be seen that after the end of the final 4-week trial, examples 1-3 had significant effects on the improvement of skin wrinkles and elasticity, while the blank comparative example 1 had general and weak effects on the improvement of skin wrinkles and elasticity. Thus, it is demonstrated that the anti-aging compositions prepared in examples 1 to 3 have a significant effect on skin texture improvement and anti-wrinkle, especially the best results were obtained with the formulation of example 2.

Finally, it should be noted that the above embodiments are only used for illustrating the technical solutions of the present invention, and not for limiting the protection scope of the present invention, although the present invention is described in detail with reference to the preferred embodiments, it should be understood by those skilled in the art that modifications or equivalent substitutions can be made on the technical solutions of the present invention without departing from the spirit and scope of the technical solutions of the present invention.

Claims

1. An anti-aging composition characterized by: comprises the following raw materials in percentage by weight:

2. The anti-aging composition according to claim 1, wherein: the emulsifier is one or more of glyceryl stearate, PEG-100 stearate, methyl glucose sesquistearate, PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquistearate, lanolin alcohol polyether-25, and potassium cetyl phosphate.

3. The anti-aging composition according to claim 1, wherein: the oil is one or more of olive oil, caprylic/capric triglyceride, cacao butter, polydimethylsiloxane, chinaroot greenbrier seed oil, shea butter, isopropyl myristate, and hydrogenated polyisobutene.

4. The anti-aging composition according to claim 1, wherein: the thickener is one or more of xanthan gum, cetearyl alcohol, carbomer, and sodium acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer.

5. The anti-aging composition according to claim 1, wherein: the humectant is one or a composition of more than two of glycerol, propylene glycol, butanediol, dipropylene glycol, glyceryl polyether-26, sodium hyaluronate, trehalose, allantoin, polyglutamic acid and betaine.

6. The anti-aging composition according to claim 1, wherein: the antioxidant is one or a combination of two of tocopherol and rosemary leaf extract.

7. The anti-aging composition according to claim 1, wherein: the preservative is one or a composition of more than two of 1, 2-pentanediol, p-hydroxyacetophenone, 1, 2-hexanediol, caprylyl hydroxamic acid, phenoxyethanol and glyceryl caprylate.

8. A method of preparing an anti-ageing composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, characterised in that: it comprises the following steps:

9. The method of preparing an anti-aging composition according to claim 8, wherein: in the first step, mixing the emulsifier, the grease and the antioxidant according to the formula ratio, heating to 75-80 ℃, and uniformly stirring to obtain a first mixture for later use;

10. The method of preparing an anti-aging composition according to claim 8, wherein: in the third step, the cooling speed is 1 ℃/min.