CN111467284B - Anti-aging nano composition and preparation method and application thereof - Google Patents

Anti-aging nano composition and preparation method and application thereof Download PDF

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CN111467284B
CN111467284B CN202010359684.XA CN202010359684A CN111467284B CN 111467284 B CN111467284 B CN 111467284B CN 202010359684 A CN202010359684 A CN 202010359684A CN 111467284 B CN111467284 B CN 111467284B
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CN111467284A (en
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刘露
张娇
韩志东
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Quanhou Guangzhou Research Institute Of Biotechnology Co ltd
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Abstract

The invention discloses an anti-aging nano composition and a preparation method and application thereof, wherein the nano composition comprises the following components in percentage by mass: 0.1-15% of fat-soluble anti-aging active ingredients, 0.1-20% of water-soluble anti-aging active ingredients, 1-15% of emulsifying agents, 3-30% of co-emulsifying agents and the balance of deionized water; the anti-aging nano composition disclosed by the invention is combined with the skin aging physiological structure phenotype and the change of the skin physiological structure caused by external environmental factors, is anti-aging from multiple paths, has internal and external functions, is more comprehensive and effective in efficacy, and is suitable for aging caused by different mechanisms; the use of the nano structure and the reasonable proportion of the components thereof have good targeting and transdermal absorption effects, increase the solubility and stability of each component, save the use amount of the functional components, reduce the cost and provide a more comprehensive and effective anti-aging product for consumers.

Description

Anti-aging nano composition and preparation method and application thereof
Technical Field
The invention belongs to the field of cosmetics, and relates to an anti-aging structure composition, in particular to an anti-aging nano composition, and a preparation method and application thereof.
Background
Skin aging refers to the irreversible process of specific morphological, biochemical and biophysical changes of the skin parallel to the aging of the whole organism. The skin aging has obvious individual difference, and the physiological structure of the skin aging shows that 1) DEJ (epidermal dermal junction) tends to be flat, 2) the thickness of epidermis and dermis becomes thinner gradually, and 3) the proportion of free water, fibrin and proteoglycan is unbalanced in the superficial layer of dermis, the secretion growth factor of cells is reduced, the number of fibroblasts is reduced, the synthesis and secretion functions of protein of aging cells are reduced, the number of fibronectin which is a component of extracellular matrix is reduced, and the elasticity of the skin is changed; 4) the subcutaneous tissue may be physiologically altered.
The skin aging is mainly caused by endogenous factors and exogenous factors, the endogenous factors are specific physiological processes of the organism and are irreversible, so the anti-aging is mainly against the aging caused by the exogenous factors. Environmental influences in the environmental exposure to skin aging fall into the following main categories: i) solar radiation: ultraviolet radiation, visible light and infrared radiation (causing elastosis of tissues, attack of collagen fibers by free radicals, heaviness of pigment abnormality, DNA damage); ii) air pollution (causing increased mottle, increased wrinkles by 8% on the face, reduced stratum corneum antioxidant components); iii) smoking (reduction of materials required for wound repair fibroblast migration, activation of the AhR pathway, elevated MMP expression and initiation of mottle); iv) nutrition (ingestion of too much sugar to produce AGE); v) other diverse factors not well studied (lack of sleep, telomeres, stress, blue light, temperature, epigenetics, autophagy, inflammation, etc.); vi) cosmetics (to reduce or prevent skin aging).
The existing anti-aging products have single components, and the aim of resisting aging is achieved by removing free radicals (resisting oxidation) or supplementing collagen to skin through vitamin E, polypeptide, polyphenol, sodium hyaluronate and the like. Then, due to a plurality of reasons for skin aging, the anti-aging effect of a product with a single component/mechanism is limited, and the requirements of all consumers cannot be met.
Disclosure of Invention
Aiming at the defects of the prior art, the invention provides the anti-aging nano composition with remarkable effect and all-round effect, and the preparation method and the application thereof.
In order to achieve the purpose, the invention adopts the technical scheme that: an anti-aging nano composition comprises the following components in percentage by mass: 0.1-15% of fat-soluble anti-aging active ingredients, 0.1-20% of water-soluble anti-aging active ingredients, 1-15% of emulsifying agents, 3-30% of co-emulsifying agents and the balance of deionized water.
As a preferred embodiment of the present invention, in the composition, the fat-soluble anti-aging active ingredient comprises the following components in parts by mass: 5-40 parts of an antioxidant, 10-50 parts of a moisturizing and repairing barrier component and 15-50 parts of a metalloprotease activity inhibitor; the antioxidant comprises at least one of tocopherol acetate, tocopherol, coenzyme Q10, hydroxydecyl ubiquinone, astaxanthin, lipoic acid, ergothioneine, and resveratrol; the moisture-preserving repair barrier comprises the following components in percentage by mass: ceramide: a mixture of 3:1:1 fatty acids; the inhibitor of metalloprotease activity comprises at least one of retinol, retinol acetate, retinol palmitate, retinol propionate, retinal and hydroxyppinacolone retinoic acid ester.
The antioxidant in the fat-soluble anti-aging component can provide the skin with the capability of eliminating free radicals and slow down cell damage; cholesterol, ceramide and fatty acid in the moisture-preserving repair barrier component are reasonably proportioned, so that the moisture-preserving repair barrier component is beneficial to repairing a lipid barrier and can help supplementing physiological sebum, and the effects of repairing and preventing skin moisture loss are achieved; inhibitors of metalloprotease activity such as retinol and its derivatives prevent photoaging, thereby reducing collagen loss and stimulating collagen synthesis.
As a preferred embodiment of the present invention, in the composition, the water-soluble anti-aging active ingredient comprises the following components in parts by mass: 1-20 parts of cutin exfoliating agent, 0.1-25 parts of anti-inflammatory agent, 0.1-15 parts of anti-saccharification agent, 15-35 parts of ginkgo leaf extract and 10-30 parts of prebiotics; the exfoliating agent comprises at least one of glycolic acid, gluconolactone, and lactobionic acid; the anti-inflammatory agent is at least one of tetrahydro-methyl pyrimidine carboxylic acid, panthenol, oat extract and 4-tert-butyl cyclohexanol; the anti-glycation agent is carnosine; the prebiotics are at least one of oat extract, alpha-glucan and beta-fructo-oligosaccharide.
The water soluble anti-aging component is properly added with a cutin peeling agent to strengthen cutin peeling on the surface of the skin, stimulate epidermal metabolism, improve the appearance of the skin and reduce the skin burden; the anti-inflammatory agent can relieve inflammatory reaction of skin caused by external stimulation, and avoid skin damage caused by excessive stimulation; carnosine can inhibit glycosylation and reduce the damage of AGEs generated by glycosylation reaction to collagen; the folium Ginkgo extract can improve autophagy ability of skin, accumulate harmful or unnecessary substances, and reuse decomposition products; the prebiotics can maintain the micro-ecological balance of the skin surface, promote the proliferation of probiotics on the skin surface, inhibit the growth of harmful bacteria, comprehensively regulate and reduce skin problems, and simultaneously can enhance the resistance of the skin.
As a preferred embodiment of the present invention, in the composition, the emulsifier comprises: at least one of polyglycerol-10 oleate, polyglycerol-10 laurate, polyglycerol-10 dilaurate, polyglycerol-6 laurate, sorbitan palmitate, cetyl phosphate, polyglyceryl-6 esters of almond oil, polyglycerol-10 dipalmitate, sorbitan oleate, polyglycerol-6 oleate, polysorbate-80, polyglycerol-3 beeswax, coco glucoside, lecithin, polyglycerol-6 distearate, cholesterol, and hydrogenated lecithin.
As a preferred embodiment of the present invention, in the composition, the co-emulsifier comprises: at least one of 1, 3-propanediol, glycerol, butanediol, octyldodecanol, gelatin, xanthan gum, gum arabic, and tara gum.
The invention also provides a preparation method of the anti-aging nano composition, which comprises the following steps:
(1) uniformly stirring and mixing the fat-soluble anti-aging active ingredients and the emulsifier, and keeping the temperature at 45-55 ℃ to obtain an oil phase;
(2) uniformly stirring and mixing the water-soluble anti-aging active ingredients and the co-emulsifier, and keeping the temperature at 45-55 ℃ to obtain a water phase;
(3) stirring the water phase obtained in the step (2) under the action of a shearing force of 5000-12000 r/min, slowly adding the oil phase obtained in the step (1) into the water phase obtained in the step (2), and continuously homogenizing for 2-5 min;
(4) treating the mixture obtained in the step (3) with 220V reverse current for 8-16 s, treating with 220V forward current for 7-10 s, alternately treating with continuous reverse current and forward current for 20-40 min, and obtaining primary emulsion after power failure;
(5) and homogenizing the primary emulsion in a high-pressure homogenizer at 800-1500 bar for 6-10 times to obtain the composition.
The invention also claims the application of the composition in preparing anti-aging cosmetics.
The invention also claims an anti-aging cosmetic, which comprises the anti-aging nano composition.
As a preferable embodiment of the invention, the anti-aging nano composition accounts for 1-8% of the anti-aging cosmetic by mass.
More preferably, the anti-aging nano composition accounts for 5% of the anti-aging cosmetic by mass.
Considering the factors of cost, effect and the like, the optimal addition amount of the anti-aging nano composition is preferably 5%.
As a preferred embodiment of the invention, the cosmetic also comprises the following components in percentage by mass: 5-18% of mineral oil, 2-6% of squalene, 1-10% of glycerol, 1-10% of propylene glycol, 1-5% of lecithin and the balance of deionized water.
The anti-aging nano composition selects a plurality of anti-aging components, combines the skin aging physiological structure phenotype and the change of the skin physiological structure caused by external environmental factors, resists aging from the following eight paths, and 1) resists oxidation; 2) improving cell metabolism; 3) a moisturizing and repairing barrier function; 4) inhibiting the activity of metalloprotease and promoting the expression of collagen; 5) promoting and regulating skin flora balance; 6) anti-inflammatory; 7) resisting saccharification; 8) improving autophagy ability of the skin; active ingredients (exfoliating active ingredients and autophagy active ingredients) for promoting metabolism and prebiotics are added from the viewpoint of skin micro-ecology to comprehensively resist aging and care on the basis of 5 target points of inhibiting activity of metalloprotease, promoting regeneration of collagen, resisting oxidation, resisting saccharification and resisting inflammation in the past anti-aging mechanism, the interaction between the skin and the external environment is further enhanced to design an anti-aging product, and the anti-aging product has the advantages of internal and external functions and more comprehensive and effective efficacy.
In addition, different from a common nano-structure composition, the anti-aging nano-structure composition directly screens and matches the active ingredients to prepare the anti-aging nano-structure composition with multiple mechanisms, does not need to prepare a carrier structure additionally, and reduces the introduction of unnecessary ingredients; on one hand, the nano composition utilizes the nano-structure lipid carrier technology to slowly release various anti-aging components, thereby achieving good targeting and transdermal absorption effects, saving the use amount of functional components and reducing the cost; on the other hand, the solubility and the stability of each component are improved and the dosage of the effective components is further reduced by reasonably matching different components; provides a more comprehensive and effective anti-aging product for consumers.
Drawings
Fig. 1 shows the results of transdermal transmission for the examples and comparative examples.
Detailed Description
To better illustrate the objects, aspects and advantages of the present invention, the present invention will be further described with reference to the accompanying drawings and specific embodiments.
Example 1
One embodiment of the anti-aging nano composition comprises the following components in percentage by mass: 10% of fat-soluble anti-aging active ingredient, 15% of water-soluble anti-aging active ingredient, 4% of emulsifier, 18% of co-emulsifier and the balance of deionized water;
the fat-soluble anti-aging active ingredients comprise the following components in parts by weight: 30 parts of an antioxidant, 35 parts of a moisturizing repair barrier component and 35 parts of a metalloprotease activity inhibitor; the antioxidant is ergothioneine and resveratrol, and the mass ratio of the ergothioneine to the resveratrol is 1: 2; the moisture-preserving repair barrier comprises the following components in percentage by mass: ceramide: a mixture of 3:1:1 fatty acids; the inhibitor of metalloprotease activity is retinol;
the water-soluble anti-aging active component comprises the following components in parts by mass: 15 parts of a cutin peeling agent, 20 parts of an anti-inflammatory agent, 10 parts of an anti-glycation agent, 30 parts of a ginkgo leaf extract and 25 parts of prebiotics; the cutin exfoliating agent is glucolactone, and the anti-inflammatory agent is tetrahydro-methyl pyrimidine carboxylic acid; the anti-glycation agent is carnosine; the prebiotics are alpha-glucan;
the emulsifier comprises: polyglycerol-10 dilaurate, cetyl phosphate and wild almond oil polyglycerol-6 esters, wherein the mass ratio of the polyglycerol-10 dilaurate to the cetyl phosphate to the wild almond oil polyglycerol-6 esters is 1: 1.4: 2.1;
the coemulsifier comprises: 1,3 propylene glycol and glycerol, wherein the mass ratio of the 1: 2.
the invention also provides a preparation method of the composition, which comprises the following steps:
(1) uniformly stirring and mixing the fat-soluble anti-aging active ingredients and the emulsifier, and keeping the temperature at 50 ℃ to obtain an oil phase;
(2) uniformly stirring and mixing the water-soluble anti-aging active ingredient and the co-emulsifier, and keeping the temperature at 50 ℃ to obtain a water phase;
(3) stirring the water phase obtained in the step (2) under the action of a shearing force of 8000r/min, slowly adding the oil phase obtained in the step (1) into the water phase obtained in the step (2), and continuously homogenizing for 3 min;
(4) treating the mixture obtained in the step (3) with 220V reverse current for 14s, then treating with 220V forward current for 9s, alternately treating with continuous reverse current and forward current for 30min, and cutting off the power to obtain primary emulsion;
(5) homogenizing the colostrum in a high-pressure homogenizer at 900bar for 8 times, and homogenizing for 4min to obtain the composition of the invention.
Example 2
An example of the anti-aging nanocomposite of the present invention is the same as example 1 except that the following components, contents and proportions are different; the paint comprises the following components in percentage by mass: 15% of fat-soluble anti-aging active ingredients, 15% of water-soluble anti-aging active ingredients, 8% of emulsifying agents, 30% of co-emulsifying agents and the balance of deionized water;
the fat-soluble anti-aging active ingredients comprise the following components in parts by weight: 40 parts of an antioxidant, 20 parts of a moisturizing repair barrier component and 40 parts of a metalloproteinase activity inhibitor; the antioxidant comprises coenzyme Q10 and hydroxydecyl ubiquinone, and the mass ratio of the coenzyme Q10 to the hydroxydecyl ubiquinone is 1: 3; the moisture-preserving repair barrier comprises the following components in percentage by mass: ceramide: a mixture of 3:1:1 fatty acids; the metalloprotease activity inhibitor is hydroxy pinacolone retinoic acid ester;
the water-soluble anti-aging active component comprises the following components in parts by mass: 20 parts of a cutin peeling agent, 25 parts of an anti-inflammatory agent, 15 parts of an anti-glycation agent, 30 parts of a ginkgo leaf extract and 10 parts of prebiotics; the exfoliating agent comprises glycolic acid; the anti-inflammatory agent is 4-tert-butylcyclohexanol; the anti-glycation agent is carnosine; the prebiotics are oat extracts;
the emulsifier comprises: the composition comprises sorbitan palmitate, cetyl phosphate and lecithin, wherein the mass ratio of the sorbitan palmitate to the cetyl phosphate is 1: 0.8: 1.2;
the coemulsifier comprises: octyl dodecanol.
Example 3
An example of the anti-aging nanocomposite of the present invention is the same as example 1 except that the following components, contents and proportions are different; the paint comprises the following components in percentage by mass: 0.1% of fat-soluble anti-aging active ingredient, 12% of water-soluble anti-aging active ingredient, 1% of emulsifier, 5% of co-emulsifier and the balance of deionized water;
the fat-soluble anti-aging active ingredients comprise the following components in parts by weight: 35 parts of an antioxidant, 35 parts of a moisturizing repair barrier component and 35 parts of a metalloprotease activity inhibitor; the antioxidant comprises astaxanthin; the moisture-preserving repair barrier comprises the following components in percentage by mass: ceramide: a mixture of 3:1:1 fatty acids; the metalloprotease activity inhibitor comprises retinol acetate and retinol palmitate, and the mass ratio of the retinol acetate to the retinol palmitate is 1: 2;
the water-soluble anti-aging active component comprises the following components in parts by mass: 15 parts of a cutin peeling agent, 20 parts of an anti-inflammatory agent, 10 parts of an anti-glycation agent, 30 parts of a ginkgo leaf extract and 25 parts of prebiotics; the exfoliating agent comprises lactobionic acid; the anti-inflammatory agent is oat extract; the anti-glycation agent is carnosine; the prebiotics are beta-fructo-oligosaccharides;
the emulsifier comprises: polyglycerol-10 dipalmitate, polyglycerol-3 beeswax acid ester, cholesterol and hydrogenated lecithin, and the mass ratio of the polyglycerol-10 dipalmitate to the polyglycerol-3 beeswax acid ester is 1: 0.5: 0.3: 0.15;
the coemulsifier comprises: gelatin.
Example 4
An example of the anti-aging nanocomposite of the present invention is the same as example 1 except that the following components, contents and proportions are different; the paint comprises the following components in percentage by mass: 10% of fat-soluble anti-aging active ingredient, 0.1% of water-soluble anti-aging active ingredient, 4% of emulsifier, 30% of co-emulsifier and the balance of deionized water;
the fat-soluble anti-aging active ingredients comprise the following components in parts by weight: 15 parts of an antioxidant, 40 parts of a moisturizing repair barrier component and 45 parts of a metalloproteinase activity inhibitor; the antioxidant is lipoic acid; the moisture-preserving repair barrier comprises the following components in percentage by mass: ceramide: a mixture of 3:1:1 fatty acids; the inhibitor of metalloprotease activity is retinol propionate;
the water-soluble anti-aging active component comprises the following components in parts by mass: 20 parts of a cutin exfoliating agent, 25 parts of an anti-inflammatory agent, 15 parts of an anti-glycation agent, 15 parts of a ginkgo leaf extract and 25 parts of prebiotics; the cutin peeling agent is glycolic acid and gluconolactone, and the mass ratio of the cutin peeling agent to the gluconolactone is 1: 2; the anti-inflammatory agent is panthenol; the anti-glycation agent is carnosine; the prebiotics are oat extracts;
the emulsifier comprises: polysorbate-80, polyglycerol-10 oleate, cholesterol and hydrogenated lecithin, wherein the mass ratio of the polysorbate-80 to the polyglycerol-10 oleate is 1: 1.2: 0.3: 0.5;
the coemulsifier comprises: butanediol.
Example 5
An example of an anti-aging nanocomposite of the present invention is the same as example 1 except for the differences in the following parts; the paint comprises the following components in percentage by mass: 10% of fat-soluble anti-aging active ingredient, 15% of water-soluble anti-aging active ingredient, 4% of emulsifier, 18% of co-emulsifier and the balance of deionized water;
the fat-soluble anti-aging active ingredients comprise the following components in parts by weight: 30 parts of an antioxidant, 35 parts of a moisturizing repair barrier component and 35 parts of a metalloprotease activity inhibitor; the antioxidant comprises tocopherol acetate; the moisture-preserving repair barrier comprises the following components in percentage by mass: ceramide: a mixture of 3:1:1 fatty acids; the inhibitor of metalloprotease activity comprises retinal;
the water-soluble anti-aging active component comprises the following components in parts by mass: 15 parts of a cutin peeling agent, 20 parts of an anti-inflammatory agent, 10 parts of an anti-glycation agent, 30 parts of a ginkgo leaf extract and 25 parts of prebiotics; the cutin exfoliating agent comprises gluconolactone and lactobionic acid, and the mass ratio of the gluconolactone to the lactobionic acid is 1: 1; the anti-inflammatory agent is tetrahydro-methyl pyrimidine carboxylic acid and panthenol, and the mass ratio of the tetrahydro-methyl pyrimidine carboxylic acid to the panthenol is 0.5: 2; the anti-glycation agent is carnosine; the prebiotics are beta-fructo-oligosaccharides;
the emulsifier comprises: the oil-free emulsion comprises polyglycerol-10 laurate, polyglycerol-6 oleate, lecithin and cholesterol, wherein the mass ratio of the polyglycerol-10 laurate to the polyglycerol-6 oleate is 1: 1.3: 0.2: 0.36;
the coemulsifier comprises: octyl dodecanol.
The invention also provides a preparation method of the composition, which comprises the following steps:
(1) uniformly stirring and mixing the fat-soluble anti-aging active ingredients and the emulsifier, and keeping the temperature at 50 ℃ to obtain an oil phase;
(2) uniformly stirring and mixing the water-soluble anti-aging active ingredient and the co-emulsifier, and keeping the temperature at 50 ℃ to obtain a water phase;
(3) stirring the water phase obtained in the step (2) under the action of a shearing force of 10000r/min, slowly adding the oil phase obtained in the step (1) into the water phase obtained in the step (2), and continuously homogenizing for 5 min;
(4) treating the mixture obtained in the step (3) with 220V reverse current for 16s, then treating with 220V forward current for 10s, alternately treating with continuous reverse current and forward current for 40min, and obtaining primary emulsion after power failure;
(5) homogenizing the colostrum in a high-pressure homogenizer at 1200bar for 6 times, and homogenizing for 3min to obtain the composition of the invention.
Example 6
An example of an anti-aging nanocomposite of the present invention is the same as example 1 except for the differences in the following parts; the paint comprises the following components in percentage by mass: 10% of fat-soluble anti-aging active ingredient, 15% of water-soluble anti-aging active ingredient, 15% of emulsifier, 18% of co-emulsifier and the balance of deionized water;
the fat-soluble anti-aging active ingredients comprise the following components in parts by weight: 5 parts of an antioxidant, 50 parts of a moisturizing repair barrier component and 45 parts of a metalloproteinase activity inhibitor; the oxidation resistance is tocopherol; the moisture-preserving repair barrier comprises the following components in percentage by mass: ceramide: a mixture of 3:1:1 fatty acids; the inhibitor of metalloprotease activity is retinol propionate;
the water-soluble anti-aging active component comprises the following components in parts by mass: 1 part of cutin exfoliant, 20 parts of anti-inflammatory agent, 14 parts of anti-glycation agent, 35 parts of ginkgo leaf extract and 30 parts of prebiotics; the cutin exfoliant is lactobionic acid; the anti-inflammatory agent is oat extract and 4-tert-butylcyclohexanol, and the mass ratio of the anti-inflammatory agent to the anti-inflammatory agent is 1: 1; the anti-glycation agent is carnosine; the prebiotics are alpha-glucan;
the emulsifier comprises: polyglycerol-10 dilaurate, sorbitan palmitate, coco glucoside and lecithin, in a mass ratio of: 1: 0.98: 1.78: 0.24;
the coemulsifier comprises: xanthan gum.
The invention also provides a preparation method of the composition, which comprises the following steps:
(1) uniformly stirring and mixing the fat-soluble anti-aging active ingredients and the emulsifier, and keeping the temperature at 45 ℃ to obtain an oil phase;
(2) uniformly stirring and mixing the water-soluble anti-aging active ingredient and the co-emulsifier, and keeping the temperature at 45 ℃ to obtain a water phase;
(3) stirring the water phase obtained in the step (2) under the action of a shearing force of 5000r/min, slowly adding the oil phase obtained in the step (1) into the water phase obtained in the step (2), and continuously homogenizing for 3 min;
(4) treating the mixture obtained in the step (3) with 220V reverse current for 8s, then treating with 220V forward current for 7s, alternately treating with continuous reverse current and forward current for 30min, and cutting off the power to obtain primary emulsion;
(5) homogenizing the colostrum in a high-pressure homogenizer at 800bar for 10 times, and homogenizing for 5min to obtain the composition of the invention.
Example 7
An example of an anti-aging nanocomposite of the present invention is the same as example 1 except for the differences in the following parts; the paint comprises the following components in percentage by mass: 10% of fat-soluble anti-aging active ingredient, 20% of water-soluble anti-aging active ingredient, 4% of emulsifier, 3% of co-emulsifier and the balance of deionized water;
the fat-soluble anti-aging active ingredients comprise the following components in parts by weight: 40 parts of an antioxidant, 10 parts of a moisturizing repair barrier component and 50 parts of a metalloprotease activity inhibitor; the antioxidant is hydroxydecyl ubiquinone; the moisture-preserving repair barrier comprises the following components in percentage by mass: ceramide: a mixture of 3:1:1 fatty acids; the inhibitor of metalloprotease activity comprises retinol acetate;
the water-soluble anti-aging active component comprises the following components in parts by mass: 19.9 parts of a cutin peeling agent, 0.1 part of an anti-inflammatory agent, 15 parts of an anti-glycation agent, 35 parts of a ginkgo leaf extract and 30 parts of prebiotics; the cutin peeling agent is glycolic acid; the anti-inflammatory agent is oat extract; the anti-glycation agent is carnosine; the prebiotics are oat extract and beta-fructo-oligosaccharide, and the mass ratio of the prebiotics to the beta-fructo-oligosaccharide is 1: 0.5;
the emulsifier comprises: polyglycerol-10 dilaurate, sorbitan oleate, cetyl phosphate, cholesterol and hydrogenated lecithin, wherein the mass ratio of the polyglycerol-10 dilaurate to the sorbitan oleate to the cetyl phosphate is 1: 0.78: 1.45: 1.09: 0.21;
the coemulsifier comprises: and (3) gum arabic.
The invention also provides a preparation method of the composition, which comprises the following steps:
(1) uniformly stirring and mixing the fat-soluble anti-aging active ingredients and the emulsifier, and keeping the temperature at 55 ℃ to obtain an oil phase;
(2) uniformly stirring and mixing the water-soluble anti-aging active ingredient with the co-emulsifier, and keeping the temperature at 55 ℃ to obtain a water phase;
(3) stirring the water phase obtained in the step (2) under the action of a shearing force of 12000r/min, slowly adding the oil phase obtained in the step (1) into the water phase obtained in the step (2), and continuously homogenizing for 2 min;
(4) treating the mixture obtained in the step (3) with 220V reverse current for 14s, then treating with 220V forward current for 9s, alternately treating with continuous reverse current and forward current for 20min, and cutting off the power to obtain primary emulsion;
(5) homogenizing the primary emulsion for 8 times in a high-pressure homogenizer at 1500bar for 1min to obtain the composition.
Example 8
An example of an anti-aging nanocomposite of the present invention is the same as example 1 except for the differences in the following parts; the fat-soluble anti-aging active ingredients comprise the following components in parts by weight: 35 parts of an antioxidant, 50 parts of a moisturizing repair barrier component and 15 parts of a metalloprotease activity inhibitor; the antioxidant comprises coenzyme Q10; the moisture-preserving repair barrier comprises the following components in percentage by mass: ceramide: a mixture of 3:1:1 fatty acids; the inhibitor of metalloprotease activity comprises retinol acetate;
the water-soluble anti-aging active component comprises the following components in parts by mass: 15 parts of a cutin peeling agent, 20 parts of an anti-inflammatory agent, 0.1 part of an anti-glycation agent, 34.9 parts of a ginkgo leaf extract and 30 parts of prebiotics; the cutin exfoliant is glycolic acid and lactobionic acid, and the mass ratio of the cutin exfoliant to the lactobionic acid is 0.34: 0.67; the anti-inflammatory agent is panthenol and 4-tert-butylcyclohexanol, and the mass ratio of the panthenol to the 4-tert-butylcyclohexanol is 1: 0.45 of; the anti-glycation agent is carnosine; the prebiotics are alpha-glucan and beta-fructo-oligosaccharide, and the mass ratio of the prebiotics is as follows: 1: 0.12;
the emulsifier comprises: polyglycerol-6 laurate, sorbitan palmitate, polyglycerol-6 distearate and polyglycerol-3 beeswax, the mass ratio of which is: 0.78: 0.35: 1.56: 1.89;
the coemulsifier comprises: caesalpinia spinosa Bunge gum.
Example 9
The invention discloses an embodiment of an anti-aging cosmetic, which comprises the following components in percentage by mass: 1% of the nano composition of example 1, 5% of mineral oil, 6% of squalane, 10% of glycerol, 1% of propylene glycol, 5% of lecithin, and the balance of deionized water.
Example 10
The invention discloses an embodiment of an anti-aging cosmetic, which comprises the following components in percentage by mass: 8% of the nano composition of example 1, 18% of mineral oil, 2% of squalane, 1% of glycerol, 10% of propylene glycol, 1% of lecithin, and the balance of deionized water.
Comparative example 1
A comparative example of the anti-aging nano composition of the present invention, which is the same as example 1 except for the contents and proportions of the following components; the fat-soluble anti-aging active ingredients comprise the following components in parts by weight: 1 part of an antioxidant, 49 parts of a moisturizing repair barrier component and 50 parts of a metalloprotease activity inhibitor;
the water-soluble anti-aging active component comprises the following components in parts by mass: 0.1 part of cutin exfoliant, 25 parts of anti-inflammatory agent, 15 parts of anti-saccharification agent, 19.9 parts of ginkgo leaf extract and 40 parts of prebiotics.
Comparative example 2
A comparative example of the anti-aging nano-composition of the present invention was the same as example 1 except that the reverse current and forward current treatment of 220V was not performed during the preparation process.
Comparative example 3
A comparative example of the anti-aging nano composition of the present invention, which is the same as example 1 except for the contents and proportions of the following components; the fat-soluble anti-aging active ingredients comprise the following components in parts by weight: 60 parts of antioxidant, 40 parts of metalloprotease activity inhibitor and no moisture-keeping repair barrier component.
Comparative example 4
A comparative example of the anti-aging nano composition of the present invention, which is the same as example 1 except for the contents and proportions of the following components; the water-soluble anti-aging active component comprises the following components in parts by mass: 50 parts of anti-inflammatory agent and 50 parts of anti-glycation agent, and does not contain cutin exfoliant, ginkgo biloba extract and prebiotics.
Comparative example 5
A comparative example of the anti-aging nano composition of the present invention, which is the same as example 1 except for the contents and proportions of the following components; the fat-soluble anti-aging active ingredients comprise the following components in parts by weight: 60 parts of an antioxidant and 40 parts of a metalloproteinase activity inhibitor, free of a moisturizing repair barrier component;
the water-soluble anti-aging active component comprises the following components in parts by mass: 50 parts of anti-inflammatory agent and 50 parts of anti-glycation agent, and does not contain cutin exfoliant, ginkgo biloba extract and prebiotics.
Comparative example 6
The content and the proportion of other components except the component without the moisture-preserving repair barrier are the same as those in the embodiment 1; namely, the anti-aging nano composition comprises the following components in percentage by mass: 6.5 percent of fat-soluble anti-aging active ingredient, 15 percent of water-soluble anti-aging active ingredient, 4 percent of emulsifier, 18 percent of co-emulsifier and the balance of deionized water; the fat-soluble anti-aging active ingredients comprise an antioxidant and a metalloproteinase activity inhibitor; the mass ratio of the antioxidant to the metalloprotease activity inhibitor is 6: 7.
Comparative example 7
A comparative example of the anti-aging nano composition of the invention, except for the non-exfoliating agent, has the same contents and proportions of other components as in example 1; namely, the anti-aging nano composition comprises the following components in percentage by mass: 10% of fat-soluble anti-aging active ingredients, 12.75% of water-soluble anti-aging active ingredients, 4% of emulsifying agents, 18% of co-emulsifying agents and the balance of deionized water; the water-soluble anti-aging active ingredients comprise an anti-inflammatory agent, an anti-glycation agent, a ginkgo leaf extract and prebiotics; the mass ratio of the anti-inflammatory agent to the anti-glycation agent to the ginkgo leaf extract to the prebiotics is 4:2:6: 5.
Comparative example 8
The content and the proportion of other components except the component without beneficial life of the anti-aging nano composition are the same as those of the embodiment 1; namely, the anti-aging nano composition comprises the following components in percentage by mass: 10% of fat-soluble anti-aging active ingredients, 11.25% of water-soluble anti-aging active ingredients, 4% of emulsifying agents, 18% of co-emulsifying agents and the balance of deionized water; the water-soluble anti-aging active ingredients comprise cutin exfoliant, anti-inflammatory agent, anti-glycation agent and folium Ginkgo extract; the mass ratio of the cutin exfoliating agent to the anti-inflammatory agent to the anti-glycation agent to the ginkgo leaf extract is 3:4:2: 6.
Comparative example 9
A comparative example of the anti-aging nano composition of the invention, except that no ginkgo leaf extract is present, the contents and proportions of other components are the same as those in example 1; namely, the anti-aging nano composition comprises the following components in percentage by mass: 10 percent of fat-soluble anti-aging active ingredient, 10.5 percent of water-soluble anti-aging active ingredient, 4 percent of emulsifier, 18 percent of co-emulsifier and the balance of deionized water; the water-soluble anti-aging active ingredients comprise a cutin exfoliating agent, an anti-inflammatory agent, an anti-glycation agent and prebiotics; the mass ratio of the cutin exfoliating agent to the anti-inflammatory agent to the anti-glycation agent to the prebiotics is 3:4:2: 5.
First, embedding rate and related parameter determination
Respectively weighing a certain amount of the Nano compositions prepared in the embodiments 1-8 and the comparative examples 1-9, dissolving a proper amount of distilled water in water, placing the dissolved Nano compositions in a centrifuge tube, centrifuging the mixture for 3 minutes at 3000r/min, taking supernatant by using an injector, adding a proper amount of ethanol or methanol to perform constant volume, measuring the amount of unencapsulated free carnosine by using a high performance liquid method (because the carnosine is dissolved in water, the addition is performed in each experiment, the embedding rate of the whole anti-aging active substance is replaced by the embedding rate of the carnosine), and measuring the particle size, the polydispersity index (PDI) and the Zeta potential by using a MalvenZetasizer Nano ZS90 to perform PCS test at room temperature. The results are as follows:
TABLE 1 measurement of the embedding rate and related parameters of each sample
Figure BDA0002473801170000141
Figure BDA0002473801170000151
The results in the table show that the nano-composition prepared by each example of the invention has higher encapsulation efficiency relative to each comparative example, and the nano-composition of each example has better dispersibility and higher potential resistance. Wherein the embedding rate of the sample is 95.56% and the particle size is only 110.3nm as measured in example 1.
Second, stability test
Taking the nano compositions prepared in examples 1-8 and comparative examples 1-9, and respectively measuring the particle size and the content of each sample; then, storing each sample at 4 ℃ and 50 ℃, sampling after 1 month, re-measuring the particle size and the content of the sample, and calculating the content change of carnosine in each sample; in addition, each sample is respectively taken to be centrifuged for 30min at the rotating speed of 10000r/min, and whether the sample is layered or precipitated is observed; the results of the tests for each sample are shown in table 2 below (table 2% content is the percentage reduction compared to before the test).
Table 2 stability test results for each sample
Figure BDA0002473801170000152
Figure BDA0002473801170000161
As can be seen from table 2, the nano-compositions prepared in the examples have good stability after being stored for 1 month at different temperatures, and the content change and particle size change effects are obviously superior to those of comparative examples 1 to 9, wherein the content and particle size of the nano-compositions prepared in example 1 are not significantly changed after being stored for one month at 4 ℃ and 50 ℃, and no delamination or precipitation is observed after centrifugation.
Third, percutaneous absorption test
By adopting a Franz diffusion cell method, 0.1g of samples of the embodiment 1 or the comparative examples 1-9 are respectively and uniformly coated on the supplied rat skin area of the diffusion cell, each group is paralleled for 3 times, 1mL of receiving liquid is sucked when 1.0, 2.0, 4.0, 6.0, 8.0, 10.0 and 12.0h are respectively taken, the receiving liquid with the same volume is added after each sampling, then, the chromatographic sample injection analysis is carried out, the content of the carnosine is determined, and the transmittance is calculated.
The results of the percutaneous absorption test are shown in fig. 1, and show that the cumulative permeation amount of example 1 is better than that of the nanostructured lipid carrier lacking the exfoliating, autophagy and microecological active ingredients of the skin, indicating that the exfoliating, autophagy and microecological active ingredients of the skin can synergistically promote the percutaneous absorption of the nano composition with other components.
Fourth, evaluation of anti-aging efficacy
Preparing a test article: 10 kinds of anti-aging cosmetics containing different nano-compositions were prepared by mixing 5.0g of the sample of example 1 or comparative examples 1 to 9 with 8.0g of mineral oil, 3.0g of squalane, 5.0g of glycerin, 4.0g of propylene glycol, 3.0g of lecithin, and 72g of water, respectively.
The test method comprises the following steps: chinese adult females with dry and rough facial skin, large pores and other problems are selected as subjects with the age of 25-40 years and the average age of 30.0 +/-4.6 years, and the different anti-aging cosmetic tests are used. The cosmetics prepared in this experiment were used in 10 groups of 35 subjects each for 8 consecutive weeks (one test article was used for each group).
Respectively testing the skin moisture loss and the texture (Surface, Volume) of the face before the trial, 4 weeks after the trial and 8 weeks after the trial, carrying out VISIA photographing and visual evaluation, and comparing whether the results are statistically different before and after the trial of the tested object; in addition, all subjects were evaluated for each efficacy index 8 weeks after use, and those evaluated as "very satisfactory" and "satisfactory" were considered to be effective, and those evaluated as not effective. Carrying out statistical analysis on the skin test result by adopting a t test, wherein the test level alpha is 0.05; data of questionnaire adopts chi2The effective rate is more than 50% and the value is chi2>3.84, the difference is significant, which shows that the product of the invention can effectively improve the moisture of the skin and reduce wrinkles (the anti-aging composition effect tests of examples 9 and 10 prove that the product can also effectively improve the moisture of the skin and reduce wrinkles; the data in the part are omitted).
The results of the transdermal water loss test are shown in table 3, the texture test results are shown in tables 4-5 (table 4 is the volume of wrinkles, table 5 is the surface area, different dimensions of wrinkles), and VISIA photographs and visual evaluations are shown in table 6; s is significant and N is not significant.
TABLE 3 results of the transdermal Water loss test (g/hm)2)
Figure BDA0002473801170000171
Figure BDA0002473801170000181
TABLE 4 texture test results (Surface)
Figure BDA0002473801170000191
Figure BDA0002473801170000201
TABLE 5 texture test results (Volume)
Figure BDA0002473801170000202
Figure BDA0002473801170000211
TABLE 6 visual assessment anti-aging score results
Figure BDA0002473801170000212
Figure BDA0002473801170000221
As can be seen from tables 3 to 6, compared with the anti-aging cosmetic prepared by the comparative example, the in vitro barrier, texture and brightness of the cosmetic prepared by the example 1 are obviously higher than those of the cosmetic prepared by the comparative example 1 to 9, which shows that 8 effective components can achieve a better whitening effect under the synergistic effect, and the effects of the cosmetic prepared by the example can not be achieved by any component lacking the exfoliating and autophagy active components and the microecological active components from the skin.
Finally, it should be noted that the above embodiments are only used for illustrating the technical solutions of the present invention and not for limiting the protection scope of the present invention, and although the present invention is described in detail with reference to the preferred embodiments, it should be understood by those skilled in the art that modifications or equivalent substitutions can be made on the technical solutions of the present invention without departing from the spirit and scope of the technical solutions of the present invention.

Claims (6)

1. The anti-aging nano composition is characterized by comprising the following components in percentage by mass: 10% of fat-soluble anti-aging active ingredient, 15% of water-soluble anti-aging active ingredient, 4% of emulsifier, 18% of co-emulsifier and the balance of deionized water;
the fat-soluble anti-aging active ingredients comprise the following components in parts by weight: 30 parts of an antioxidant, 35 parts of a moisturizing repair barrier component and 35 parts of a metalloprotease activity inhibitor; the antioxidant is ergothioneine and resveratrol, and the mass ratio of the ergothioneine to the resveratrol is 1: 2; the moisture-preserving repair barrier comprises the following components in percentage by mass: ceramide: fatty acid =3:1:1 mixture; the inhibitor of metalloprotease activity is retinol;
the water-soluble anti-aging active component comprises the following components in parts by mass: 15 parts of a cutin peeling agent, 20 parts of an anti-inflammatory agent, 10 parts of an anti-glycation agent, 30 parts of a ginkgo leaf extract and 25 parts of prebiotics; the cutin exfoliating agent is glucolactone, and the anti-inflammatory agent is tetrahydro-methyl pyrimidine carboxylic acid; the anti-glycation agent is carnosine; the prebiotics are alpha-glucan;
the emulsifier comprises: polyglycerol-10 dilaurate, cetyl phosphate and wild almond oil polyglycerol-6 esters, wherein the mass ratio of the polyglycerol-10 dilaurate to the cetyl phosphate to the wild almond oil polyglycerol-6 esters is 1: 1.4: 2.1;
the coemulsifier comprises: 1,3 propylene glycol and glycerol, wherein the mass ratio of the 1: 2;
the preparation method of the anti-aging nano composition comprises the following steps:
(1) uniformly stirring and mixing the fat-soluble anti-aging active ingredients and the emulsifier, and keeping the temperature at 45-55 ℃ to obtain an oil phase;
(2) uniformly stirring and mixing the water-soluble anti-aging active ingredients and the co-emulsifier, and keeping the temperature at 45-55 ℃ to obtain a water phase;
(3) stirring the water phase obtained in the step (2) under the action of a shearing force of 5000-12000 r/min, slowly adding the oil phase obtained in the step (1) into the water phase obtained in the step (2), and continuously homogenizing for 2-5 min;
(4) treating the mixture obtained in the step (3) with 220V reverse current for 8-16 s, treating with 220V forward current for 7-10 s, alternately treating with continuous reverse current and forward current for 20-40 min, and obtaining primary emulsion after power failure;
(5) and homogenizing the primary emulsion in a high-pressure homogenizer at 800-1500 bar for 6-10 times to obtain the composition.
2. The method for preparing the anti-aging nano composition as set forth in claim 1, comprising the steps of:
(1) uniformly stirring and mixing the fat-soluble anti-aging active ingredients and the emulsifier, and keeping the temperature at 45-55 ℃ to obtain an oil phase;
(2) uniformly stirring and mixing the water-soluble anti-aging active ingredients and the co-emulsifier, and keeping the temperature at 45-55 ℃ to obtain a water phase;
(3) stirring the water phase obtained in the step (2) under the action of a shearing force of 5000-12000 r/min, slowly adding the oil phase obtained in the step (1) into the water phase obtained in the step (2), and continuously homogenizing for 2-5 min;
(4) treating the mixture obtained in the step (3) with 220V reverse current for 8-16 s, treating with 220V forward current for 7-10 s, alternately treating with continuous reverse current and forward current for 20-40 min, and obtaining primary emulsion after power failure;
(5) and homogenizing the primary emulsion in a high-pressure homogenizer at 800-1500 bar for 6-10 times to obtain the composition.
3. Use of the anti-aging nano composition as defined in claim 1 for preparing an anti-aging cosmetic.
4. An anti-aging cosmetic comprising the anti-aging nano composition according to claim 1.
5. The cosmetic of claim 4, wherein the anti-aging nano composition is contained in the anti-aging cosmetic in an amount of 1 to 8% by mass.
6. The cosmetic according to claim 4, further comprising the following components in percentage by mass: 5-18% of mineral oil, 2-6% of squalene, 1-10% of glycerol, 1-10% of propylene glycol, 1-5% of lecithin and the balance of deionized water.
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