CN115737467A - Nano-encapsulated active composition for cosmetics and preparation method thereof - Google Patents
Nano-encapsulated active composition for cosmetics and preparation method thereof Download PDFInfo
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- CN115737467A CN115737467A CN202211457685.3A CN202211457685A CN115737467A CN 115737467 A CN115737467 A CN 115737467A CN 202211457685 A CN202211457685 A CN 202211457685A CN 115737467 A CN115737467 A CN 115737467A
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Abstract
The invention provides a nano-encapsulated active composition for cosmetics, which comprises, by weight, 2-15 parts of phospholipid, 0.1-1 part of surfactant, 20-50 parts of polyol, 5-20 parts of grease, 0.1-10 parts of active ingredients, 1-3 parts of antioxidant and 5-15 parts of water. The active composition disclosed by the invention uses the synergistic effect of multiple components, can be used for efficiently wrapping the active components, enables the active components to have better stability and a slow-release effect, enables the active components to be slowly released, has long-acting activity when in use, and can be used for effectively solving the problems of instability, poor solubility, skin penetration and non-absorption, or excessive stimulation after skin penetration and the like of a product. The nano-encapsulated active compositions of the present invention can be used as an additive component in a variety of cosmetic products.
Description
Technical Field
The invention relates to the technical field of cosmetics, in particular to a nano-encapsulated active composition for cosmetics and a preparation method thereof.
Background
In recent years, the science and technology of cosmetics are rapidly developed, and a large number of anti-aging raw materials and skin care products, such as anthocyanin, astaxanthin, superoxide dismutase, vitamin C, vitamin E, coenzyme Q10, metallothionein, retinol and derivatives thereof, and the like, appear. More and more effective active compositions are applied to cosmetics, but the active compositions generally have the problems of difficult preservation, easy inactivation and the like; many active compositions are poorly absorbed in the skin and there is no way to show their efficacy; some actives are irritating and tend to cause irritation when contacted with the skin in high direct concentrations.
In the prior art, active substances lacking stability are wrapped to improve the stability and the transdermal property of unstable active ingredients, so that the problems of instability, non-absorption in transdermal delivery, excessive stimulation after transdermal delivery, poor solubility and the like of products are solved.
Chinese patent CN110623859A discloses a preparation method of hydroxypropyl cyclodextrin inclusion retinol, which is a slow-release high-efficiency product formed by encapsulating retinol with hydroxypropyl cyclodextrin, improves the bioavailability of the retinol, is beneficial to the absorption of skin, and can also be dissolved in water. Chinese patent CN110693003A provides an emulsion gel for embedding fat-soluble vitamins and a production method thereof based on a pulse electric field, the pulse electric field is used for promoting the interaction between methyl cellulose and starch molecules, the emulsion gel has higher elastic modulus, a network structure which is more beneficial to embedding the fat-soluble vitamins is easier to form, the fat-soluble vitamins are effectively 'wrapped', and the purpose of slowly releasing the fat-soluble vitamins is realized. However, these techniques are complicated and can destroy the activity of the active ingredient.
Therefore, the preparation of a coating composition which can effectively maintain the activity of active ingredients, maintain long-acting use effect, is easy to absorb and permeate skin and has good stability is still a problem to be solved.
Disclosure of Invention
Aiming at the problems, the invention provides a nano-encapsulated active composition for cosmetics, which can effectively solve the problems of instability, poor solubility, skin penetration and non-absorption, or excessive stimulation after skin penetration and the like of products; and can be used as an additive component for various cosmetic products.
The invention provides a nano-encapsulated active composition for cosmetics, which comprises 2-15 parts by weight of phospholipid, 0.1-1 part by weight of surfactant, 20-50 parts by weight of polyalcohol, 5-20 parts by weight of grease, 0.1-10 parts by weight of active ingredients, 1-3 parts by weight of antioxidant and 5-15 parts by weight of water.
Further preferably, the nano-encapsulated active composition comprises, by weight, 5-10 parts of phospholipid, 0.3-0.8 part of surfactant, 30-40 parts of polyol, 10-15 parts of grease, 1-8 parts of active ingredients, 1.5-2.5 parts of antioxidant and 6-10 parts of water.
Preferably, the phospholipid is one or more of lecithin, hydrogenated lecithin, wild soybean lipid and sphingomyelin.
Preferably, the phospholipids are lecithin and sphingomyelin.
Further preferably, the phospholipid is lecithin and sphingomyelin in a mass ratio of 1: (0.5-0.8).
Lecithin has amphiphilic and antioxidant activity and is used in cosmetic ingredients. Has continuous softening effect on skin, effectively increases water content of stratum corneum, and can rapidly permeate into skin cutin due to its structure similar to biological membrane. Due to the existence of polar and nonpolar parts in the structure of the lecithin, the lecithin has hydrophilicity and lipophilicity, excellent emulsibility and forms liposome-encapsulated components in a system. The inventors have found that when a combination of lecithin and sphingomyelin is used, the resulting encapsulation system is prepared with greater stability. The inventors analyzed that the stability of the composition was enhanced, probably because the polar head of sphingomyelin contains a large number of coordinate bonds and hydroxyl groups, and is able to generate strong intermolecular forces with other components in the system, making the components in the system more uniformly dispersed, and being less likely to cause problems such as aggregation.
Preferably, the surfactant is one or more of a cationic surfactant, an amphoteric surfactant and a nonionic surfactant.
Preferably, the surfactant is a cationic surfactant and a nonionic surfactant.
More preferably, the mass ratio of the cationic surfactant to the nonionic surfactant is (0.5-1): (0.5-2).
Preferably, the mass ratio of the cationic surfactant to the nonionic surfactant is 0.8:1.5.
preferably, the cationic surfactant includes, but is not limited to, cetyl trimethyl quaternary ammonium bromide, stearyl dimethyl benzyl quaternary ammonium chloride.
Preferably, the cationic surfactant is cetyltrimethylammonium bromide.
Preferably, the nonionic surfactant is one or a mixture of more of fatty alcohol polyoxyethylene ether, alkylphenol polyoxyethylene ether, polyhydric alcohol polyoxyethylene ether fatty acid ester, alkylolamide, polyhydric alcohol fatty acid ester, glycerin fatty acid ester and natural saccharide nonionic surfactant.
Preferably, the nonionic surfactant is a polyol fatty acid ester.
More preferably, the polyol fatty acid ester is one or more of sorbitan stearate, sorbitan laurate, sorbitol palmitate, sorbitol oleate, polysorbate stearate, polysorbate laurate, polysorbate palmitate and polysorbate oleate.
More preferably, the polyalcohol fatty acid ester is one or more of sorbitol laurate, sorbitan oleate PEG-20, polyglycerol-2 stearate, polyglycerol-6 oleate and polyglycerol-6 laurate.
More preferably, the polyol fatty acid ester is polyglycerin-6 oleate.
The invention uses the combined action of the nonionic surfactant and the cationic surfactant, has excellent emulsibility, can obviously reduce the surface tension, achieves water-oil balance, ensures that the formed coating system has more stable structure, and is not easy to have the problems of precipitation, delamination and the like. The inventor finds in experiments that when using the mass ratio (0.5-1): (0.5-2) cationic surfactants and nonionic surfactants, the best use effect is obtained. The used cationic surfactant and nonionic surfactant contain long carbon chains, coordinate bonds and double bonds, can form cross-linking with other components in the system, can form covalent bonds with components such as sphingomyelin and the like, enhances the binding force among the components, effectively enhances the stable dispersion of the components in the system, and avoids the problems of precipitation of active components and the like. However, the inventors have found that if the content of the cationic surfactant is too high, the stability is adversely affected. The inventor analyzes that the quaternary ammonium salt is probably due to hygroscopicity, and the long carbon chain quaternary ammonium salt used in the invention is easy to coordinate with other components in a system to form covalent bonds due to small polar head, and meanwhile, the long carbon chains are intertwined with each other, so that the other components cannot be effectively combined, and the balance of the system is broken; and the cation content is too much, which can cause certain irritation.
Preferably, the polyhydric alcohol is selected from one or more of glycerol, butanediol, ethylene glycol and pentaerythritol.
Further preferably, the polyol is selected from ethylene glycol.
Preferably, the grease is one or more of caprylic/capric triglyceride, isopropyl palmitate, isooctyl palmitate, sorbitol cocoate and PEG-8 caprylic/capric glyceride.
More preferably, the oil is isopropyl palmitate (isopropyl palmitate).
Preferably, the active ingredient is a vitamin, vitamin derivative, amino acid, plant extract, niacinamide, hydrolyzed keratin, ceramide or the like.
Further preferably, the active ingredient is one or a mixture of amino acids and ceramide.
Preferably, the antioxidant is one or more of tocopherol, tocopherol acetate, tocopherol succinate, allantoin and polypeptide.
Further preferably, the antioxidant is one or more of tocopherol, allantoin and polypeptide.
Further preferably, the antioxidant is tocopherol and polypeptide.
Further preferably, the mass ratio of the tocopherol to the polypeptide is 1: (0.8-1).
Further preferably, the polypeptide is one or a mixture of acetyl hexapeptide-3, palmitoyl pentapeptide-5 and acetyl tetrapeptide-5.
The inventors have found that tocopherol, when used in conjunction with a polypeptide, has excellent antioxidant properties. The polypeptide structure can quickly permeate skin, and has the effects of resisting free radical oxidation, promoting collagen production, diminishing inflammation, repairing and the like. However, the stability of the small molecular polypeptide components is poor, the small molecular polypeptide components are easy to agglomerate to generate precipitate, and when the mass ratio of the small molecular polypeptide components to the tocopherol is 1: (0.8-1) and can effectively solve the problem when the catalyst and other components in the system act synergistically. And the inventors have found that when a cationic active agent is included in the system, further enhancement of the stability is achieved. The inventor analyzes that the stability of the polypeptide is further enhanced probably because the secondary structure of the polypeptide is promoted to be formed by a certain content of salt and is mutually crosslinked with other components in the system.
The invention also provides a preparation method of the nano-encapsulated active composition for cosmetics, which comprises the following specific steps:
s1: adding phospholipid, surfactant and polyalcohol into water, and stirring and mixing uniformly to obtain phase A;
s2: adding oil and fat, active ingredient, and antioxidant into phase A, mixing at 50-95 deg.C, and homogenizing to obtain cosmetic active composition.
A cosmetic nanocapsule active composition comprises its use in cosmetics.
Compared with the prior art, the invention has the following beneficial effects:
the active ingredient can be efficiently wrapped by using the synergistic effect of a plurality of ingredients, so that the active ingredient has better stability and a slow release effect, the active ingredient is slowly released, the active ingredient has long-acting activity when in use, and the problems of instability, poor solubility, skin penetration and non-absorption or over stimulation after skin penetration and the like of a product can be effectively solved. The nano-encapsulated active compositions of the present invention can be used as an additive component in a variety of cosmetic products.
Drawings
FIG. 1 is a graph of a sample of the composition of example 1 of the present invention after high and low temperature stability testing;
FIG. 2 is a graph of a sample of the composition of example 1 of the present invention after centrifugation stability testing.
Detailed Description
The present invention is further illustrated by the following examples. Unless otherwise defined, all terms of art used hereinafter have the same meaning as commonly understood by one of ordinary skill in the art. The terminology used herein is for the purpose of describing particular embodiments only and is not intended to limit the scope of the present invention. Unless otherwise specified, the experimental materials and reagents used herein are all conventional commercial products in the art.
Examples
Example 1
The embodiment provides a nano-encapsulated active composition for cosmetics, which comprises 2 parts by weight of phospholipid, 0.1 part by weight of surfactant, 20 parts by weight of polyol, 5 parts by weight of grease, 0.1 part by weight of active ingredient, 1 part by weight of antioxidant and 5 parts by weight of water.
The mass ratio of the lecithin to the sphingomyelin is 1; the surfactant comprises cetyl trimethyl ammonium bromide and polyglycerol-6 oleate with the mass ratio of 0.8; the polyhydric alcohol is ethylene glycol; the grease is isopropyl palmitate; the active ingredient is ceramide; the antioxidant is prepared from the following components in percentage by mass: 0.9 of tocopherol and acetyl hexapeptide-3.
The CAS number for lecithin is 8002-43-5; the CAS number of sphingomyelin is 85187-10-6; polyglycerol-6 oleate was purchased from the scientific and technological company of new Jinsheng materials, shandong Binshou; the CAS number of isopropyl palmitate is 142-91-6; ceramide is available from Guangdong Nissan technologies, inc.; tocopherols were purchased from Shanghai Kai pharmaceutical science and technology Co., ltd; acetyl hexapeptide-3 is available from Weijia science and technology, inc., guangzhou.
In another aspect, this embodiment provides a method for preparing a nano-encapsulated active composition for cosmetics, comprising the following steps:
s1: adding phospholipid, surfactant and polyalcohol into water, and stirring and mixing uniformly to obtain phase A;
s2: adding oil and fat, active ingredient, and antioxidant into phase A, mixing at 50-95 deg.C, and homogenizing to obtain cosmetic active composition.
Example 2
The embodiment provides a nano-encapsulated active composition for cosmetics, which comprises 15 parts of phospholipid, 1 part of surfactant, 50 parts of polyol, 20 parts of grease, 10 parts of active ingredients, 3 parts of antioxidant and 15 parts of water by weight.
The mass ratio of the lecithin to the sphingomyelin is 1; the surfactant comprises cetyl trimethyl ammonium bromide and polyglycerol-6 oleate with the mass ratio of 0.8; the polyhydric alcohol is ethylene glycol; the grease is isopropyl palmitate; the active ingredient is ceramide; the antioxidant is prepared from the following components in percentage by mass: 0.9 of tocopheryl acetyl hexapeptide-3.
In another aspect, this example provides a method for preparing a cosmetic nanocapsule active composition, which comprises the same steps as in example 1.
Example 3
The embodiment provides a nano-encapsulated active composition for cosmetics, which comprises 8 parts by weight of phospholipid, 0.5 part by weight of surfactant, 35 parts by weight of polyol, 13 parts by weight of grease, 5 parts by weight of active ingredient, 2 parts by weight of antioxidant and 10 parts by weight of water.
The mass ratio of the lecithin to the sphingomyelin is 1; the surfactant comprises cetyl trimethyl ammonium bromide and polyglycerol-6 oleate with the mass ratio of 0.8; the polyhydric alcohol is ethylene glycol; the grease is isopropyl palmitate; the active ingredient is ceramide; the antioxidant is prepared from the following components in percentage by mass: 0.9 of tocopheryl acetyl hexapeptide-3.
In another aspect, this embodiment provides a method for preparing a cosmetic nanocapsule active composition, comprising the same steps as in embodiment 1.
Example 4
This example provides a cosmetic nanocapsule active composition, which is the same as example 3 in the embodiment, and is different from example 3 in that the mass ratio of lecithin to sphingomyelin is 1:0.5.
example 5
This example provides, in one aspect, a cosmetically acceptable nano-encapsulated active composition, which is the same as example 3, except that the mass ratio of cetyltrimethylammonium bromide to polyglycerol-6 oleate is 0.5.
Comparative example 1
This example provides, in one aspect, a cosmetically acceptable nano-encapsulated active composition, which is the same as example 3, except that the mass ratio of cetyltrimethylammonium bromide to polyglycerol-6 oleate is 1.5.
Comparative example 2
This example provides, on the one hand, a cosmetically active nanocapsule composition, the specific embodiment of which is the same as example 3, except that the mass ratio between tocopherol and acetyl hexapeptide-3 is 1.
Comparative example 3
This example provides, in one aspect, a cosmetically acceptable nano-encapsulated active composition, the specific embodiment of which is the same as example 3, except that the surfactant is polyglyceryl-6 oleate.
Comparative example 4
This example provides a cosmetic nanocapsule active composition, which is the same as example 3 in the embodiment, and is different from example 3 in that the mass ratio of lecithin to sphingomyelin is 1:1.
performance testing
Test method
1. And (3) testing high and low temperature stability: the retinol wrap obtained in examples 1-5 and comparative examples 1-4 was left at-15 deg.C, 5 deg.C, 25 deg.C, and 40 deg.C for 48h, respectively, and the composition was observed for the occurrence of changes such as delamination and discoloration. If no change occurs, the color is marked as A, if slight change occurs, the color is marked as B, and if color change and layering are obvious, the color is marked as C.
2. And (3) centrifugal stability testing: at normal temperature, the compositions obtained in examples 1-5 and comparative examples 1-4 were respectively centrifuged at 2000r/min for 30min, and whether the compositions layered or precipitated at the bottom of the centrifuge tube was observed.
The nano-encapsulated active compositions of examples 1-5 and comparative examples 1-4 were subjected to the above performance tests, and the test results are shown in table 1 below.
TABLE 1
| Examples | High and Low temperature stability | Centrifugal stability |
| Example 1 | A | No delamination and no precipitation |
| Example 2 | A | No delamination and no precipitation |
| Example 3 | A | No delamination and no precipitation |
| Example 4 | A | No delamination and no precipitation |
| Example 5 | A | No delamination and no precipitation |
| Comparative example 1 | C | Demixing with little precipitation |
| Comparative example 2 | B | Layering |
| Comparative example 3 | C | Demixing with little precipitation |
| Comparative example 4 | B | Layering |
Claims (10)
1. A nano-encapsulated active composition for cosmetics is characterized by comprising, by weight, 2-15 parts of phospholipid, 0.1-1 part of surfactant, 20-50 parts of polyhydric alcohol, 5-20 parts of grease, 0.1-10 parts of active ingredients, 1-3 parts of antioxidant and 5-15 parts of water.
2. The cosmetic nanocapsule active composition of claim 1, wherein said phospholipid is selected from the group consisting of lecithin, hydrogenated lecithin, wild soybean lipid, and sphingomyelin.
3. The cosmetically acceptable nano-encapsulated active composition of claim 2, wherein said phospholipids are lecithin and sphingomyelin.
4. The cosmetic nanocapsule active composition of claim 1, wherein said surfactant is a mixture of one or more of cationic, amphoteric and nonionic surfactants.
5. The cosmetic nanocapsule active composition of claim 4, wherein said surfactant is selected from the group consisting of cationic surfactants and nonionic surfactants.
6. The cosmetic nano-encapsulated active composition according to claim 5, wherein the mass ratio of the cationic surfactant to the nonionic surfactant is (0.5-1): (0.5-2).
7. The cosmetic nanocapsule active composition of claim 1, wherein said oil is one or more of caprylic/capric triglyceride, isopropyl palmitate, isooctyl palmitate, sorbitan cocoate, PEG-8 caprylic/capric triglyceride.
8. The cosmetically acceptable nano-encapsulated active composition of claim 1, wherein said active ingredient is a vitamin, vitamin derivative, amino acid, plant extract, niacinamide, hydrolyzed keratin, ceramide, or the like.
9. The cosmetic nanocapsule active composition of claim 1, wherein said antioxidant is selected from the group consisting of tocopherol, tocopherol acetate, tocopherol succinate, allantoin, and polypeptides.
10. A process for the preparation of a nano-encapsulated active composition for cosmetic use according to any of claims 1 to 9, characterized in that it comprises the following specific steps:
s1: adding phospholipid, surfactant and polyalcohol into water, and stirring and mixing uniformly to obtain phase A;
s2: adding oil and fat, active ingredient, and antioxidant into phase A, mixing at 50-95 deg.C, and homogenizing to obtain active composition.
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| CN112587438A (en) * | 2020-12-25 | 2021-04-02 | 彭氏(惠州)实业发展有限公司 | Cosmetic composition with high vitamin C content as well as preparation method and application thereof |
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- 2022-11-18 CN CN202211457685.3A patent/CN115737467A/en active Pending
Patent Citations (5)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| CN105307629A (en) * | 2013-06-07 | 2016-02-03 | 花王株式会社 | Oil-in-water emulsion cosmetic preparation for skin |
| CN107802508A (en) * | 2017-11-01 | 2018-03-16 | 武汉百思凯瑞纳米科技有限公司 | A kind of cationic-liposome nano-composition and its preparation method and application |
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| CN112587438A (en) * | 2020-12-25 | 2021-04-02 | 彭氏(惠州)实业发展有限公司 | Cosmetic composition with high vitamin C content as well as preparation method and application thereof |
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