CN110965314B - 竹涤混纺弹力面料的染整加工方法 - Google Patents

竹涤混纺弹力面料的染整加工方法 Download PDF

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CN110965314B
CN110965314B CN201911242407.4A CN201911242407A CN110965314B CN 110965314 B CN110965314 B CN 110965314B CN 201911242407 A CN201911242407 A CN 201911242407A CN 110965314 B CN110965314 B CN 110965314B
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齐元章
张战旗
徐晓坤
宋琳
谢汝义
于滨
李娜
成晓丽
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Lufeng Weaving and Dyeing Co Ltd
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Abstract

本发明涉及纺织印染技术领域，具体涉及一种竹涤混纺弹力面料的染整加工方法。所述的竹涤混纺弹力面料的染整加工方法，采用前处理、增白、后整理的流程对竹涤弹力面料的染整加工；前处理步骤的处理工序为：烧毛→冷堆→水洗氧漂；增白步骤的处理工序为：涤增白→棉增白；后整理步骤的处理工序为：低温柔软→湿布预缩。本发明的竹涤混纺弹力面料的染整加工方法，不仅流程短、生产效率高、能耗低，而且成品面料白度高，手感柔软，布面风格佳。

Description

竹涤混纺弹力面料的染整加工方法
技术领域
本发明涉及纺织印染技术领域，具体涉及一种竹涤混纺弹力面料的染整加工方法。
背景技术
竹涤混纺面料，既具有竹纤维天然抗菌，吸湿透气的特点，又改良了涤纶纤维吸水性差、手感硬、易起球、起静电等缺点。两者的有机结合，发挥各自的优势，很好的满足了消费者舒适性、保健性、环保性的需求，具有广阔的发展前景。
竹涤混纺面料从诞生至今，染整工艺已经有了较大的发展。但目前在行业内，其染整工艺流程仍比较繁复，成品面料手感偏硬，布面风格不佳，尤其是竹含量较低时。另外，在添加弹力丝后，染整过程需要高温定型，能耗高，同时影响织物白度，成品面料白度偏低。
因此，亟待开发一种高效短流程的染整加工方法。
发明内容
针对现有技术的不足，本发明的目的是提供一种竹涤混纺弹力面料的染整加工方法，不仅流程短、生产效率高、能耗低，而且成品面料白度高，手感柔软，布面风格佳。
本发明所述的竹涤混纺弹力面料的染整加工方法，采用前处理、增白、后整理的流程对竹涤混纺弹力面料的染整加工；
所述前处理步骤的处理工序为：烧毛→冷堆→水洗氧漂；
所述增白步骤的处理工序为：涤增白→棉增白；
所述后整理步骤的处理工序为：低温柔软→湿布预缩。
烧毛工序包括：车速100-120m/min，正反双面正烧，火焰强度10-15mbar。
冷堆工序包括：常温浸轧低碱工作液，三浸一轧，轧余率90-110％，车速60-70m/min，打卷后常温堆置16-18h。
低碱工作液组成为：烧碱15-20g/L，双氧水5-10g/L，特效冷堆前处理剂10-15g/L，螯合剂5-8g/L，余量为水。
其中，螯合剂为常规市购产品；特效冷堆前处理剂优选为FORYL MAG-L，科凯精细化工有限公司生产。
水洗氧漂工序包括：车速50-60m/min，水洗槽90-95℃预洗，浸轧低双氧水工作液，蒸箱98-100℃饱和蒸汽汽蒸15-20min，90-95℃水洗，烘干，落布含潮率8-10％。
低双氧水工作液组成为：双氧水3-5g/L，烧碱2-5g/L，低泡精炼剂6-8g/L，稳定剂6-10g/L，螯合剂4-8g/L，余量为水。
其中，稳定剂、螯合剂为常规市购产品；低泡精炼剂优选为FORYL EPD-C，科凯精细化工有限公司生产。
涤增白为高温涤增白，其工序包括：浸轧涤增白剂,一浸一轧，轧余率60-70％，烘房温度195℃-205℃，车速40-50m/min，落布门幅为成品上限幅宽加2-4cm。
涤增白剂组成为：EVB 2-4g/L，EBB 2-4g/L，余量为水；涤增白剂发色温度为195℃-205℃。
涤增白与干定型一浴加工，既减少了一道高温定型流程，同时涤增白剂高温发色，提高成品面料白度。
棉增白为双氧水、增白剂混拼棉增白，其工序包括：浸轧荧光增白剂，一浸一轧，轧余率70-80％，蒸箱98-100℃饱和蒸汽汽蒸90-120s，50℃水洗，烘干。
荧光增白剂组成为：CF-200 6-12g/L，BHV 2-4g/L，烧碱2-5g/L，双氧水3-5g/L，螯合剂5-8g/L，稳定剂5-8g/L，渗透剂2-4g/L，余量为水。
低温柔软工序包括：浸轧柔软剂20-50g/L、渗透剂1-3g/L、酸1-2g/L，一浸一轧，轧余率65-70％，110℃低温烘干。
湿布预缩工序包括：车速40-50m/min，进入胶毯前经过喷淋给湿，胶毯温度90-110℃，呢毯温度100-120℃，轧距8-14mm，张力架10-30N。
与现有技术相比，本发明有以下有益效果：
(1)本发明的竹涤混纺弹力面料的染整加工方法流程短，具体为：烧毛—冷堆—水洗氧漂—涤增白—棉增白—柔软—预缩，从坯布到成品仅需7个处理工序；
(2)本发明的加工方法高效节能环保，冷堆采用低碱冷堆，烧碱浓度仅为15-20g/L，同时加入特效冷堆处理剂，即可达到处理效果，同时节省了清洗用水；涤增白与干定型一浴，既减少了一道高温定型流程，又提高了面料尺寸稳定性，改善了热缩，同时涤增白剂高温发色，提高成品面料白度；
(3)本发明加工的面料手感柔软，布面风格佳，竹涤面料在烧毛后布面硬挺度增加，不烧毛则布面毛羽长短不一、布面风格差，本发明采用轻烧毛技术，同时配合低碱冷堆工艺，可有效提高冷堆水洗后布面软度，同时赋予面料优良的毛效和吸湿效果，对后续增白剂的吸收、以及柔软剂的吸收打下良好的基础；
(4)本发明通过柔软和喷淋升温预缩，即可稳定成品面料门幅和经向缩水，又可大幅提升面料手感，使其变得更加柔软饱满，同时具备良好的布面风格，提高了面料品质和档次。
具体实施方式
以下结合实施例对本发明做进一步说明，但本发明的保护范围不仅限于此，该领域专业人员对本发明技术方案所作的改变，均应属于本发明的保护范围内。
实施例和对比例中的白度数据均由色彩测试仪器Datacolour在D65光源下测定。
实施例1
一种竹涤混纺弹力面料组织规格：BAM/T50*BAM/T50(SPANDEX40D)*165*105*52/53，花型：3/1缎纹。
采用本发明竹涤混纺弹力面料的染整加工方法对上述竹涤混纺弹力面料进行处理，步骤如下：
1)烧毛：车速120m/min，正烧，火焰强度10mbar；
2)冷堆：常温三浸一轧，轧余率110％，车速60m/min，打卷后常温堆置18h；低碱工作液组成为烧碱15g/L，双氧水10g/L，特效冷堆前处理剂10g/L，螯合剂8g/L，余量为水；
3)水洗氧漂：车速50m/min，水洗槽90℃预洗，浸轧低双氧水工作液，蒸箱100℃汽蒸15min，90℃水洗，烘干；低双氧水工作液组成为烧碱2g/L，双氧水5g/L，低泡精炼剂8g/L，稳定剂6g/L，螯合剂6g/L，余量为水；
4)涤增白：浸轧涤增白剂，一浸一轧，轧余率70％，烘房温度200℃，车速45m/min，落布门幅为成品上限幅宽加2cm；涤增白剂组成为EVB 4g/L，EBB 2g/L，余量为水；
5)棉增白：浸轧荧光增白剂，一浸一轧，轧余率70％，100℃蒸箱饱和蒸汽汽蒸90s，50℃水洗，烘干；荧光增白剂组成为CF-200 12g/L，BHV 2g/L,烧碱2g/L，双氧水5g/L，螯合剂6g/L，稳定剂5g/L，渗透剂2g/L，余量为水；
6)柔软：浸轧柔软剂40g/L，渗透剂1.5g/L，酸1g/L，一浸一轧，轧余率65％，110℃烘干；
7)预缩：车速40m/min，进入胶毯前经过喷淋给湿，胶毯温度100℃，呢毯温度120℃，轧距10mm，张力架15N。
使用上述工艺处理后，水洗氧漂底白84，涤增白工序白度125，成品面料白度达155。
对比例1
按照传统染整加工方法“烧毛→退煮→氧漂→干定型→复漂→涤增白→棉增白→超柔软→柔软→预缩”对实施例1中的竹涤混纺弹力面料进行处理。
使用传统工艺处理后，水洗氧漂底白85，涤增白工序白度117，成品面料白度达146。
通过实施例1与对比例1对比可得：较传统工艺流程，本发明流程减少了“干定型—复漂”流程，其中，“复漂”工序为“干定型”降白后，提高面料白度而添加的流程，所以对比例1的底白稍高(85)，但其涤增白工序白度只有117，成品白度值也偏低(146)，同时，传统工艺经处理后的面料手感偏硬，而本发明工艺处理后的面料手感软度、布面风格也明显优于传统工艺。
实施例2
一种竹涤混纺弹力面料组织规格：BAM/T40*P75D(SPANDEX40D)*130*100*51/53，花型：平纹。
采用本发明竹涤混纺弹力面料的染整加工方法对上述竹涤混纺弹力面料进行处理，步骤如下：
1)烧毛：车速120m/min，正烧，火焰强度10mbar；
2)冷堆：常温三浸一轧，轧余率110％，车速60m/min，打卷后常温堆置16h；低碱工作液组成为烧碱15g/L，双氧水5g/L，特效冷堆前处理剂12g/L，螯合剂10g/L，余量为水；
3)水洗氧漂：车速60m/min，水洗槽90℃预洗，浸轧低双氧水工作液，蒸箱100℃汽蒸20min，90℃水洗，烘干；低双氧水工作液组成为烧碱2.5g/L，双氧水4g/L，低泡精炼剂，8g/L，稳定剂6g/L，螯合剂6g/L，余量为水；
4)涤增白：浸轧涤增白剂，一浸一轧，轧余率70％，烘房温度205℃，车速45m/min，落布门幅为成品上限幅宽加2cm；涤增白剂组成为EVB 3g/L，EBB 2g/L，余量为水；
5)棉增白：浸轧荧光增白剂，一浸一轧，轧余率70％，100℃蒸箱饱和蒸汽汽蒸120s，50℃水洗，烘干；荧光增白剂组成为CF-200 10g/L，BHV 2g/L，烧碱2g/L，双氧水5g/L，螯合剂6g/L，稳定剂5g/L，渗透剂2g/L，余量为水；
6)柔软：浸轧柔软剂50g/L，渗透剂2g/L，酸1g/L，一浸一轧，轧余率65％，110℃烘干；
7)预缩：车速50m/min，进入胶毯前经过喷淋给湿，胶毯温度100℃，呢毯温度110℃，轧距12mm，张力架30N。
使用上述工艺处理后，水洗氧漂底白81，涤增白工序白度115，成品面料白度达155.1。
对比例2
按照传统染整加工方法“烧毛→退煮→氧漂→干定型→复漂→涤增白→棉增白→超柔软→柔软→预缩”对实施例2中的竹涤混纺弹力面料进行处理。
使用传统工艺处理后，水洗氧漂底白85，涤增白工序白度109，成品面料白度达147.6。
通过实施例2与对比例2对比可得：较传统工艺流程，本发明流程减少了“干定型—复漂”流程，其中，“复漂”工序为“干定型”降白后，提高面料白度而添加的流程，所以对比例1的底白稍高(85)，但其涤增白工序白度只有109，成品白度值也偏低(147.6)，同时，传统工艺经处理后的面料手感偏硬，而本发明工艺处理后的面料手感软度、布面风格也明显优于传统工艺。

Claims (3)

1.一种竹涤混纺弹力面料的染整加工方法，其特征在于：采用前处理、增白、后整理的流程对竹涤混纺弹力面料的染整加工；
所述前处理步骤的处理工序为：烧毛→冷堆→水洗氧漂；
所述增白步骤的处理工序为：涤增白→棉增白；
所述后整理步骤的处理工序为：低温柔软→湿布预缩；
烧毛工序包括：车速100-120m/min，正反双面正烧，火焰强度10-15mbar；
冷堆工序包括：常温浸轧低碱工作液，三浸一轧，轧余率90-110%，车速60-70m/min，打卷后常温堆置16-18h；所述低碱工作液组成为：烧碱15-20g/L，双氧水5-10g/L，特效冷堆前处理剂FORYL MAG-L 10-15g/L，螯合剂5-8g/L，余量为水；
水洗氧漂工序包括：车速50-60m/min，水洗槽90-95℃预洗，浸轧低双氧水工作液，蒸箱98-100℃饱和蒸汽汽蒸15-20min，90-95℃水洗，烘干，落布含潮率8-10%；所述低双氧水工作液组成为：双氧水3-5g/L，烧碱2-5g/L，低泡精炼剂6-8g/L，稳定剂6-10g/L，螯合剂4-8g/L，余量为水；
涤增白为高温涤增白，其工序包括：浸轧涤增白剂，一浸一轧，轧余率60-70%，烘房温度195℃-205℃，车速40-50m/min，落布门幅为成品上限幅宽加2-4cm；所述涤增白剂组成为：EVB 2-4g/L，EBB 2-4g/L，余量为水；
棉增白为双氧水、增白剂混拼棉增白，其工序包括：浸轧荧光增白剂，一浸一轧，轧余率70-80%，蒸箱98-100℃饱和蒸汽汽蒸90-120s，50℃水洗，烘干；所述荧光增白剂组成为：CF-200 6-12g/L，BHV 2-4g/L，烧碱2-5g/L，双氧水3-5g/L，螯合剂5-8g/L，稳定剂5-8g/L，渗透剂2-4g/L，余量为水。
2.根据权利要求1所述的竹涤混纺弹力面料的染整加工方法，其特征在于：低温柔软工序包括：浸轧柔软剂20-50g/L、渗透剂1-3g/L、酸1-2g/L，一浸一轧，轧余率65-70%，110℃低温烘干。
3.根据权利要求1所述的竹涤混纺弹力面料的染整加工方法，其特征在于：湿布预缩工序包括：车速40-50m/min，进入胶毯前经过喷淋给湿，胶毯温度90-110℃，呢毯温度100-120℃，轧距8-14mm，张力架10-30N。
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