CN102021840A - 一种纯亚麻华舒纺面料的染整工艺 - Google Patents
一种纯亚麻华舒纺面料的染整工艺 Download PDFInfo
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- CN102021840A CN102021840A CN2010105620110A CN201010562011A CN102021840A CN 102021840 A CN102021840 A CN 102021840A CN 2010105620110 A CN2010105620110 A CN 2010105620110A CN 201010562011 A CN201010562011 A CN 201010562011A CN 102021840 A CN102021840 A CN 102021840A
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- Prior art keywords
- finishing
- dyeing
- agent
- flax
- textile fabric
- Prior art date
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- 239000004744 fabric Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 52
- 238000004043 dyeing Methods 0.000 title claims abstract description 30
- 239000004753 textile Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 18
- 238000007730 finishing process Methods 0.000 title abstract 2
- 238000000034 method Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 26
- 102000004190 Enzymes Human genes 0.000 claims abstract description 24
- 108090000790 Enzymes Proteins 0.000 claims abstract description 24
- 239000003513 alkali Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 22
- HEMHJVSKTPXQMS-UHFFFAOYSA-M sodium hydroxide Chemical compound data:image/svg+xml;base64,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 data:image/svg+xml;base64,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 [OH-].[Na+] HEMHJVSKTPXQMS-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 claims description 33
- 241000208202 Linaceae Species 0.000 claims description 29
- 235000004431 Linum usitatissimum Nutrition 0.000 claims description 29
- 238000005516 engineering process Methods 0.000 claims description 22
- 239000003795 chemical substances by application Substances 0.000 claims description 16
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- TWRXJAOTZQYOKJ-UHFFFAOYSA-L MgCl2 Chemical compound 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[Mg+2].[Cl-].[Cl-] TWRXJAOTZQYOKJ-UHFFFAOYSA-L 0.000 claims description 10
- MHAJPDPJQMAIIY-UHFFFAOYSA-N hydrogen peroxide Chemical compound data:image/svg+xml;base64,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 data:image/svg+xml;base64,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 OO MHAJPDPJQMAIIY-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 10
- 239000012224 working solution Substances 0.000 claims description 10
- 239000003223 protective agent Substances 0.000 claims description 9
- 239000002994 raw material Substances 0.000 claims description 9
- 239000003381 stabilizer Substances 0.000 claims description 9
- 150000001875 compounds Chemical class 0.000 claims description 8
- 238000002360 preparation method Methods 0.000 claims description 7
- 238000007670 refining Methods 0.000 claims description 7
- SUKJFIGYRHOWBL-UHFFFAOYSA-N Sodium hypochlorite Chemical compound 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- 230000037303 wrinkles Effects 0.000 claims description 6
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Abstract
本发明涉及一种纯亚麻华舒纺面料的染整工艺，通过对织物进行烧毛——酶堆置——氯碱氧——除蜡排皱——染色——AIRO空气柔软及形态定型处理——蒸汽熨定型整理，不但保留了纯亚麻面料原有的优良特性，而且悬垂性和亲肤性好、强力损失小、染色牢度高，并且具备细节定型，微小折痕记忆功能，消除刺痒感，拓展了面料的使用领域。工艺设计合理，环境友好，大量减少了能源和水资源的使用。
Description
一种纯亚麻华舒纺面料的染整工艺
技术领域
[0001] 本发明涉及功能布料的生产加工技术，具体涉及一种纯亚麻华舒纺面料的染整工艺。
背景技术
[0002] 亚麻是人类最早使用的天然植物纤维，距今已有1万年以上的历史。亚麻纤 维具有良好的凉爽感、挺括感和洁净感，透气性和导湿性好，耐霉，耐虫蛀，这是其它 天然纤维所不具备而且无法取代的，也是化学纤维无法比拟的，亚麻被誉为“纤维皇 后”。为了充分利用我国较为丰富的亚麻资源，发挥亚麻纤维的优良性能，克服亚麻纤 维在加工和应用中的缺点。近年来，人们开始注重亚麻产品的开发，旨在通过与其它纤 维，在充分表现亚麻纤维优良特性的同时，改善其缺陷，实现两种或多种纤维优良性能 的优势互补。从而开发适合不同季节、不同地域、不同消费者需求的新型亚麻系列产
P
ΡΠ O
[0003] 纯亚麻为主的天然纤维，以其柔软、凉爽、合适、吸湿、透气的优良特性，继 续占据着夏季面料的主导，但是由于亚麻纤维的色素和木质素含量较高，伸长较小，结 晶度高，染色性差，使亚麻/棉织物的前处理比纯棉织物的难度大。
[0004] 长期以来，我国只能生产亚麻半漂布和工艺品用布。出口档次，价格以及创汇 率都较低。为使我国亚麻织物在国际市场上增强竞争能力，大大提高创汇率，必须生产 高档次的服装用布，这就需要提高亚麻织物染整工艺技术水平，其中包括前处理，染色 和整理工艺技术。
[0005] 从生产亚麻半漂布提高到生产高档的亚麻服装布，就织物前处理来说，需要研 究解决的问题有很多，例如提高除杂程度和均勻度，降低纤维潜在损伤，改善纤维染色 性能，改善织物手感等，涉及煮练、漂白、丝光等一系列工艺技术，我国尚未对这些课 题作过比较系统的试验研究。亚麻织物前处理传统工艺是采用重漂的技术路线，织物煮 练后氯漂，漂液有效氯浓度为3-4克/升，PH值为8-8.5。采用这样强烈的抓漂条件主 要是为了去除亚麻织物上存在的麻屑和木质素。但必然造成亚麻纤维较大的潜在损伤。 例如2008坯布煮练后比粘度为1.83，经氯漂后比粘度为0.72比粘度的大大降低，表明了 亚麻纤维是纤维的降解。亚麻织物前处理工艺改进的方向是采用重练轻漂的技术路线， 增强煮练，提高毛效，减少木质素含量和麻 屑，减轻漂白的负担。这样就可以减少纤维 的潜在损伤，提高亚麻织物前处理半成品的内在质量。亚麻染色织物的质量同前处理的 工艺技术密切相关。例如色泽鲜艳度，勻染性，染色，条花等问题很大程度上是由于前 处理不当而造成的。如何加强织物前处理除杂的程度及均勻度是提高染色质量的关健。 在前处理的工序中影响最大的是煮练.加强煮练可以采取多种措施，包括提高煮练温度和 碱浓，采用高效煮练助刻，延长煮练时间等。
[0006] 本发明针对纯亚麻开发中的技术难题，在织物前处理、染色、后整理方面进行 技术攻关，使开发出的纯亚麻面料不但保留原有的优良特性，又克服了上述缺点，满足客户的要求，拓展了出口市场，且前景广阔，对出口创汇及我国纯亚麻纺织面料向高附 加值方向发展起到了积极的推动作用。
发明内容
[0007] 为了克服现有技术的缺点，本发明提供了一种纯亚麻华舒纺面料的染整工艺， 本发明方法采用酶堆置处理和氯碱氧短蒸处理相结合的前处理方式，提高了织物的各项 物理性能指标；面料在后整理的工程中，通过独特的空气柔软和化学抗皱整理相结合的 处理方式，使面料具有细节定型的形态记忆功能，能保持面料微小折皱的形态，使面料 具备自然蓬松的手感，具备穿着的舒爽感觉，且经过多次水洗之后，该形态记忆不会消 失，是一种高档新型休闲面料。
[0008] 为实现上述目的本发明采用如下技术方案：
[0009] 一种纯亚麻华舒纺面料的染整方法，包括有烧毛、酶堆置、氯碱氧、除蜡排 皱、染色、AIRO空气柔软及形态定型处理、蒸汽熨定型，其特征在于：所述的酶堆置 工艺中采用复合型酶制剂退浆；所述的氯碱氧工艺中每升工作液含有的各原料组分重量 为：
[0010] 次氯酸钠：8-9g
[0011]烧碱：14-16g
[0012]双氧水：7_9g
[0013]稳定剂：7_9g
[0014]精练剂：7_9g
[0015] 所述AIRO空气柔软及形态定型处理工艺中每升工作液中含有的各原料组分重量 为：
[0016] 强力保护剂：28_32g
[0017] 抗皱整理剂：28_32g
[0018] 氯化镁催化剂：8_12g。
[0019] 所述的纯亚麻华舒纺面料的染整方法，其特征在于：
[0020] 所述的复合型酶制剂为丹麦诺维信公司生产的复合退浆酶SKD-301。
[0021] 所述的纯亚麻华舒纺面料的染整方法，其特征在于：所述的氯碱氧工艺中每升 工作液含有的各原料组分重量为：
[0022] 次氯酸钠：8g
[0023]烧碱：15g
[0024] 双氧水：8g
[0025] 稳定剂：8g
[0026]精炼剂 KW: 8g。
[0027] 所述的纯亚麻华舒纺面料的染整方法，其特征在于：
[0028] 所述AIRO空气柔软及形态定型处理工艺中每升工作液中含有的各原料组分重量 为：
[0029] 强力保护剂JET: 30g
[0030] 抗皱整理剂FEL ： 30g[0031] 氯化镁催化剂：10g。
[0032] 所述的纯亚麻华舒纺面料的染整方法，其特征在于：
[0033] 所述的精炼剂为佛山晨辉化工发展有限公司生产的精炼剂KW，所述的稳定剂 为石家庄环城生物化工厂生产稳定剂GJ101，所述的强力保护剂JET为汽巴公司生产， 所述的强力保护剂JET为瑞士汽巴公司生产，所述的抗皱整理剂FEL为瑞士汽巴公司生
产。
[0034] 本发明的有益效果：
[0035] ①生物酶处理，消除刺痒感，提高面料穿着舒爽性
[0036] 面料通过诺维信生物酶堆置处理，去除了织物表面茸毛，达到生物抛光的日 的，消除了织物原有的刺痒感，改善了织物的手感、柔软性和悬垂性，对织物的吸水、 吸湿性能也有一定的提高；提高了面料的穿着舒爽性能。
[0037] ②短流程清洁生产工艺，具有节能减排优势
[0038] 常规前处理采用高浓度碱退浆及煮练。在烧碱的作用下，可以使浆料发生溶 胀，变成溶胶状态，容易从织物上溶脱下来，NaOH还能使油脂质、果胶等物质经化学反 应后去除，亦可用来调节双氧水漂白时的pH值，达到漂白纤维的目的。传统工艺中，为 达到漂白和清除杂质的目的，常使用碱退+氧漂+氯漂的方法，但过激的化学反应难以保 证纤维不受到损伤。而且整个过程中对残留在织物上的烧碱需大量的水清洗，相应产生 了大量的碱性废水，对环境产生极大的影响。本发明方法面料通过低碱短流程环保工艺 加工，减少了高浓度碱对纤维的脆损，提高了织物的各项物理性能指标；面料通过诺维 信生物酶堆置处理，可大部分的去除附着在纤维上的果胶、蜡质，为使用氯碱氧短蒸处 理创造条件。由于复合酶冷堆处理几乎不损伤强力，低碱对纤维的损伤也较微小，达到 了即保证半制品质量要求又保护纤维的日的，为后续加工打下基础。在使用酶堆置后我 们采用氯碱氧处理，对布面的麻丝、杂质、残留油迹等予以处理，并且将白度提升到要 求值。由于该工艺无需在退煮漂线生产，仅使用染色机前车轧氯，后车碱氧就可以达到 半制品的质量要求，因此可以节约大量的水电汽，选择生物酶堆置处理技术和氯碱氧加 工替代传统的退煮漂工艺，减少了烧碱的使用量，排放污水少，同时减少了印染废水的 处理负担，满足清洁生产的需要，具有环保性。
[0039] 改进工艺与常规工艺性能及能源消耗比对表
[0040]
rai碱消耗公斤/万米ι能源消耗元/米 常规工艺 7^8 350 OA
改进工艺 10-11 90 022
[0041] ③空气柔软及形态定型处理：
[0042] 面料通过独特的空气柔软和化学抗皱整理相结合的处理方式，使面料具有细节 定型的形态记忆功能，能保持面料微小折皱的形态，使面料具备自然蓬松的手感，具备 穿着的舒爽感觉，且经过多次水洗之后，该形态记忆不会消失，因此不同于普通面料的 平整形态记忆；加工面料各项化学指标均符合Oeko—TexlOO要求，是一种高档新型功能性环保面料。
[0043] 本发明工艺不但保 留了纯亚麻面料原有的透气、挺括、抑菌、抗菌、易吸湿散 湿优良特性，而且悬垂性和亲肤性好、强力损失小、染色牢度高，并且具备细节定型， 微小折痕记忆功能，消除刺痒感，拓展了面料的使用领域。工艺设计合理，环境友好， 大量减少了能源和水资源的使用。
附图说明
[0044] 图1为本发明的工艺流程图。 具体实施方式
[0045] 一种纯亚麻华舒纺面料的染整方法：
[0046]原料的准备纯亚麻面料 L 21*21/60*53 ； L 17*21/60*53
[0047] 工艺流程：烧毛——酶堆置——氯碱氧——除蜡排皱——染色——AIRO空气柔 软及形态定型处理——蒸汽熨定型。
[0048] 具体工艺步骤：
[0049] 1.烧毛
[0050] 由于纯亚麻纤维毛羽较多，为使成品面料表面光洁，色泽均勻，必须经过烧毛 处理。而且要应用2/2加强烧毛，采用钢性刷毛辊，将毛羽刷起，以保证烧毛质量；
[0051] 工艺流程：翻布一缝头一进布一刷毛一2/2烧毛一灭火一冷却一落布；
[0052] 工艺条件：火口 ： 2正2反，车速：80M/分，蒸汽灭火，火口温度：900°C〜 IlOO0C ；
[0053] 2.酶堆置：
[0054] 采用丹麦诺维信公司生产的复合退浆酶SKD-301，此种酶制剂为复合型，可有 效去除果胶、蜡质，
[0055] 工艺流程：进布一轧酶一打卷堆置，
[0056] 工艺条件：酶制剂：12g/LPH: 5-6温度：50°C，堆置时间：20小时，堆置温 度：25°C轧液率：100%,
[0057] 采用酶堆是为了以减少烧碱的用量，减少烧碱对纤维的损伤，尽可能的减轻纤 维脆硬的趋势；
[0058] 3、氯碱氧工艺：
[0059] 工艺流程：染色打底机退卷轧次氯酸钠漂液一堆置20min —轧液碱氧液一汽蒸 1.5min —高效水洗4格一烘干一落布，
[0060] 工作液：
[0061] 次氯酸钠：8g/L
[0062]烧碱：15g/L
[0063]双氧水：8g/L
[0064] 稳定剂GJlOl ： 8g/L石家庄环城生物化工厂生产
[0065] 精炼剂KW ： 8g/L 佛山晨辉化工发展有限公司生产；
[0066] 4、除蜡排皱；[0067] 5、染色印花； [0068] 6、AIRO空气柔软及形态定型处理：控制缩水与门幅
[0069] AIR04*lhours* 120"C *500m/min
[0070] 工作液：
[0071] 强力保护剂JET: 30g/L汽巴公司生产
[0072] 抗皱整理剂FEL: 30g/L汽巴公司生产
[0073] 氯化镁催化剂：10g/L。
[0074] 7、蒸汽熨定型。
Claims (5)
1. 一种纯亚麻华舒纺面料的染整方法，包括有烧毛、酶堆置、氯碱氧、除蜡排皱、 染色、AIRO空气柔软及形态定型处理、蒸汽熨定型，其特征在于：所述的酶堆置工艺中 采用复合型酶制剂退浆；所述的氯碱氧工艺中每升工作液含有的各原料组分重量为：次氯酸钠：8-9g 烧碱：14-16g 双氧水：7-9g 稳定剂：7-9g 精练剂：7-9g所述AIRO空气柔软及形态定型处理工艺中每升工作液中含有的各原料组分重量为：强力保护剂：28-32g 抗皱整理剂：28-32g 氯化镁催化剂：8-12g。
2.根据权利要求1所述的纯亚麻华舒纺面料的染整方法，其特征在于：所述的复合 型酶制剂为丹麦诺维信公司生产的复合退浆酶SKD-301。
3.根据权利要求1所述的纯亚麻华舒纺面料的染整方法，其特征在于：所述的氯碱 氧工艺中每升工作液含有的各原料组分重量为：次氯酸钠：8g 烧碱：15g 双氧水：8g 稳定剂：Sg 精炼剂KW： Sg。
4.根据权利要求1所述的纯亚麻华舒纺面料的染整方法，其特征在于：所述AIRO空 气柔软及形态定型处理工艺中每升工作液中含有的各原料组分重量为：强力保护剂JET ： 30g 抗皱整理剂FEL: 30g 氯化镁催化剂：10g。
5.根据权利要求14任一项所述的纯亚麻华舒纺面料的染整方法，其特征在于：所述的精炼剂为佛山晨辉化工发展有限公司生产的精炼剂KW，所述的稳定剂为石 家庄环城生物化工厂生产稳定剂GJ101，所述的强力保护剂JET为汽巴公司生产，所述的 强力保护剂JET为瑞士汽巴公司生产，所述的抗皱整理剂FEL为瑞士汽巴公司生产。
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| CN110565236A (zh) * | 2019-09-04 | 2019-12-13 | 宜兴市新东茂纺织科技有限公司 | 一种抗菌耐洗的亚麻面料的制作及保存工艺 |
| EP3936648A1 (en) * | 2020-06-22 | 2022-01-12 | Trident Limited | A wet processing technique for producing terry fabrics |
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