CN110284237A - 一种无纫线防寒服面料及其制备方法 - Google Patents

一种无纫线防寒服面料及其制备方法 Download PDF

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CN110284237A
CN110284237A CN201910607289.6A CN201910607289A CN110284237A CN 110284237 A CN110284237 A CN 110284237A CN 201910607289 A CN201910607289 A CN 201910607289A CN 110284237 A CN110284237 A CN 110284237A
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protective clothing
preparation
clothing fabric
cold protective
line cold
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孙德荣
孙德明
陆浩祥
张堂标
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Xuzhou Rongshengda Textile Technology Stock Co Ltd
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Abstract

本发明公开了一种无纫线防寒服面料及其制备方法，所述的无纫线防寒服面料由原料制备、纤维给湿处理、经纱分条整经后与纬纱喷水织机织造，再依次经预缩精炼、染色、定型后整理制备得到，所述的经纱、纬纱均为40D~90D/144~288F仿棉涤纶混纤变形丝，所述的经纱上机密度为120~180n/cm，所述纬纱上机密度为105~160n/cm，采用6~16片综的多臂喷水织机，按三层平纹纬向管状组织进行织造。本发明产品直接织造出管状结构，且面料充绒后厚度均匀，保暖效果好，面料触之有像棉制品一样高贵触感。

Description

一种无纫线防寒服面料及其制备方法
技术领域
本发明涉及一种面料及其制备方法，尤其涉及到一种无纫线防寒服面料及其制备方法，属于纺织领域。
背景技术
现有的防寒服面料多用细旦尼龙纤维织造，虽然面料能达到防钻绒效果，总不免缺乏身骨。另外，因为后续要进行充绒加工，因此要进行双层面料的组合，为了保证羽绒不因为重力作用下落，常做成横向管状充绒通道的模式。双层防寒服面料的组合通常采用缝纫或胶合的方式。前者在纫线处易出现羽绒钻出，后者使用的胶料会造成一定的污染，且工序繁杂。
现有市场已有一步织造双层尼龙面料的形式来解决上述问题，但一方面，尼龙面料缺乏身骨，使成衣总是有种臃肿感，另一方面，双层管道结构的设计使得面料在充绒后，结接处偏薄而不利于保暖效果，且面料触感滑糯，没有棉制品优雅高贵的复古触感。
发明内容
本发明的目的在于克服现有技术中存在的不足，而提供一种无需纫线或胶料组合，直接织造出管状结构，且面料充绒后厚度均匀，保暖效果好，面料触之有像棉制品一样高贵触感的无纫线防寒服面料制备方法。
为解决以上技术问题，本发明采取如下技术方案：
一种无纫线防寒服面料及其制备方法，所述的无纫线防寒服面料由原料制备、纤维给湿处理、经纱分条整经后与纬纱喷水织机织造，再依次经预缩精炼、染色、定型后整理制备得到，所述的经纱、纬纱均为40D~90D/144~288F仿棉涤纶混纤变形丝，所述的经纱上机密度为120~180n/cm，所述纬纱上机密度为105~160n/cm，采用6~16片综的多臂喷水织机，按三层平纹纬向管状组织进行织造。
具体地，所述的原料制备的具体方法为：将改性仿棉聚酯切片与玻璃纤维改性聚酯母粒共混后熔融，再经纺丝及后加工、加弹变形制得仿棉涤纶混纤变形丝，玻璃纤维改性聚酯母粒添加比例为聚酯成分的1~1.8%。
具体地，所述的纤维给湿处理的具体方法为：先将仿棉涤纶混纤变形丝浸泡于处理液中，处理温度75℃，30~40min，再于室温平衡18~24h。
更具体地，所述的纤维给湿处理液的配方为：0.5~1%平滑剂，0.5~1%非离子抗静电剂TK-DF，其余为水。
优选地，所述的纤维给湿处理液的配方为：0.8%平滑剂，1%非离子抗静电剂TK-DF，其余为水。
具体地，所述的无纫线防寒服面料內幅为三层结接管状结构，表、中、里组织采用平纹组织，表层与中层采用“下接上”方式结接，中层与里层采用“上接下”方式结接，相邻的表层与中层结接处之间形成纬向管状组织、相邻的中层与里层结接处之间形成纬向管状组织，管状组织的宽度为5-15cm。
更具体地，所述的无纫线防寒服面料边幅采用6/6经重平组织进行加固，边幅为1~1.5cm。
具体地，所述的经纱分条整经，整经张力为0.15~0.35cN/D，整经车速为160~180m/min。
具体地，所述的喷水织机织造，车速为480rpm，经纱张力控制在0.3~0.4cN/D之间。
具体地，所述的预缩精炼处理的具体方法为：先平幅精炼，温度区间50~95℃，车速30m/min；再于气流缸中松弛预缩，温度130℃，保温30~40min，所述的松弛预缩处理助剂配方为7.5~10%（o.w.f）的纯碱、1~2%（o.w.f）的双氧水、0.5~1%（o.w.f）的去油灵、1~2%（o.w.f）的退浆剂，其余为水。
具体地，所述的染色处理的具体方法为：于气流缸中采用分散染料进行所述的染色，控制染色浴比为1:6~10，染色温度为125~130℃，保温时间为30~40min，pH为5~6。
具体地，所述的定型后整理处理的具体方法为：温度区间150~165℃，超喂率-2~0，车速30m/min，后整理助剂配方：0.5~1.5%传化TF-408A，1~1.5%防泼水泼油整理剂，其余为水。
优选地，所述的定型后整理助剂配方：1%传化TF-408A，1.2%防泼水泼油整理剂，其余为水。
由于以上技术方案的实施，本发明与现有技术相比具有如下优点：
本发明采用玻璃纤维增强改性的仿棉涤纶混纤变形丝为原料，其价格大大低于棉花，且玻璃纤维的增韧作用使得纤维可以适应高密度的喷水织造，染整加工后高F的仿棉涤纶混纤变形丝产生异收缩效应，使织物的表面相比常规滑糯的尼龙防寒服面料产生天然的仿棉毛羽触感及不显臃肿的身骨。并且，本发明通过在分条整经前对纤维平顺处理，提高了纤维的平顺性与过筘能力，有利于整经及织造效率的提升。此外，本发明采用三层平纹结接纬向管道组织，使得织物免于再次贴合里料，且充绒后整体面料薄厚均匀，不会出现双层面料结接处偏薄而影响防寒保暖效果。而本发明的染整加工采用无液碱常压沸染一步定型处理，流程快，效率高。成品面料具有棉羽触感、充绒厚度均一性、防钻绒与易打理效果。
附图说明
图1为一种无纫线防寒服面料的面料结构示意结构图。
图2为一种无纫线防寒服面料的面料內幅组织结构示意简图，其中A区为面料表、中层结接区，B区为面料表、中、里三层分离织造区，C区为面料中、里层结接区。图中，“×”为表层经组织点，“Δ”为中层经组织点，“○”为里层经组织点，“□”为构成三层组织织造需要提综的表、中经组织点，“/”为A区特有采用“下接上”法的结接处经组织点,“◎”为C区特有采用“上接下”法的结接处纬组织点（虽然标出但不提综）。A区、C区各沿经向循环4次，每个B区沿经向循环156次，织物上机管状宽度12cm。
图3为一种无纫线防寒服面料的边幅组织结构示意图，采用6/6经重平组织，上机边幅1cm。
具体实施方式
下面结合具体的实施例对本发明做进一步详细的说明，但本发明不限于以下实施例。
如图1/2/3所示的一种无纫线防寒服面料的面料，经纬纱线均为40D/96F仿棉涤纶混纤变形丝，该纱线是将改性仿棉聚酯切片与玻璃纤维改性聚酯母粒共混后熔融，再经纺丝及后加工、加弹变形制得仿棉涤纶混纤变形丝，玻璃纤维改性聚酯母粒添加比例为聚酯成分的1~1.8%。其包括依次进行的如下步骤：
(1) 纤维给湿处理：将仿棉涤纶混纤变形丝浸泡于处理液中，处理温度75℃，30~40min，再于室温平衡18~24h。纤维给湿处理液的配方为：0.8%平滑剂，1%非离子抗静电剂TK-DF，其余为水；
(2)分条整经：整经张力为0.15~0.35cN/D，整经车速为160~180m/min；
(3)喷水织机织造：在津田驹ZW8100喷水织机上进行织造，采用如附图2所示的布身组织结构，其中：A区沿经向循环4次，向下相接B区沿经向循环156次，再向下相接C区沿经向循环4次，最后向下相接B区沿经向循环156次，共6*4+6*156+6*4+6*156=1920根/循环，为一个完整的组织图中纬纱循环根数。边幅采用如附图3所示的6/6经重平组织，上机边幅1cm。织物上机经纱密度为180n/cm，纬纱密度为160n/cm，门幅140cm，穿法6入，车速为480rpm，经纱张力控制在0.3~0.4cN/D之间；
(4)预缩精炼：先用平幅预缩机对坯布进行平幅精炼，温度区间50~95℃，车速30m/min；再于气流缸中松弛预缩，温度130℃，保温30~40min。松弛预缩处理助剂配方为：8%（o.w.f）的纯碱、1.5%（o.w.f）的双氧水、0.75%（o.w.f）的去油灵、1.25%（o.w.f）的退浆剂，其余为水；
(5)采用高温高压气流染色机染色：采用分散染料进行染色，控制染色浴比为1:6~10，染色温度为125~130℃，保温时间为30~40min，pH为6；
(6)定型后整理：温度区间150~165℃，超喂率-1，车速30m/min。定型后整理助剂配方：1%传化TF-408A，1.2%防泼水泼油整理剂，其余为水；
成品门幅141.5cm，经纱密度（以三层计）210n/cm，纬纱密度（以三层计）175n/cm，平方米克重185gsm，各层管状宽度为10.5~11cm，为具有棉羽触感、充绒厚度均一性、防钻绒与易打理效果的理想无纫线防寒服面料。
以上对本发明做了详尽的描述，其目的在于让熟悉此领域技术的人士能够了解本发明的内容并加以实施，并不能以此限制本发明的保护范围，凡根据本发明的精神实质所作的等效变化或修饰，都应涵盖在本发明的保护范围内。

Claims (13)

1.一种无纫线防寒服面料及其制备方法，其特征在于，所述的无纫线防寒服面料由原料制备、纤维给湿处理、经纱分条整经后与纬纱喷水织机织造，再依次经预缩精炼、染色、定型后整理制备得到，所述的经纱、纬纱均为40D~90D/144~288F仿棉涤纶混纤变形丝，所述的经纱上机密度为120~180n/cm，所述纬纱上机密度为105~160n/cm，采用6~16片综的多臂喷水织机，按三层平纹纬向管状组织进行织造。
2.根据权利要求1所述的一种无纫线防寒服面料及其制备方法，其特征在于，所述的原料制备的具体方法为：将改性仿棉聚酯切片与玻璃纤维改性聚酯母粒共混后熔融，再经纺丝及后加工、加弹变形制得仿棉涤纶混纤变形丝，玻璃纤维改性聚酯母粒添加比例为聚酯成分的1~1.8%。
3.根据权利要求1所述的一种无纫线防寒服面料及其制备方法，其特征在于，所述的纤维给湿处理的具体方法为：先将仿棉涤纶混纤变形丝浸泡于处理液中，处理温度75℃，30~40min，再于室温平衡18~24h。
4.根据权利要求1所述的一种无纫线防寒服面料及其制备方法，其特征在于，所述的纤维给湿处理液的配方为：0.5~1%平滑剂，0.5~1%非离子抗静电剂TK-DF，其余为水。
5.根据权利要求4，所述的一种无纫线防寒服面料及其制备方法，其特征在于，所述的纤维给湿处理液的配方为：0.8%平滑剂，1%非离子抗静电剂TK-DF，其余为水。
6.根据权利要求1所述的一种无纫线防寒服面料及其制备方法，其特征在于，所述的无纫线防寒服面料內幅为三层结接管状结构，表、中、里组织采用平纹组织，表层与中层采用“下接上”方式结接，中层与里层采用“上接下”方式结接，相邻的表层与中层结接处之间形成纬向管状组织、相邻的中层与里层结接处之间形成纬向管状组织，管状组织的宽度为5-15cm。
7.根据权利要求1所述的一种无纫线防寒服面料及其制备方法，其特征在于，所述的无纫线防寒服面料边幅采用6/6经重平组织进行加固，边幅为1~1.5cm。
8.根据权利要求1所述的一种无纫线防寒服面料及其制备方法，其特征在于，所述的经纱分条整经，整经张力为0.15~0.35cN/D，整经车速为160~180m/min。
9.根据权利要求1所述的一种无纫线防寒服面料及其制备方法，其特征在于，所述的喷水织机织造，车速为480rpm，经纱张力控制在0.3~0.4cN/D之间。
10.根据权利要求1所述的一种无纫线防寒服面料及其制备方法，其特征在于，所述的预缩精炼处理的具体方法为：先平幅精炼，温度区间50~95℃，车速30m/min；再于气流缸中松弛预缩，温度130℃，保温30~40min，所述的松弛预缩处理助剂配方为7.5~10%（o.w.f）的纯碱、1~2%（o.w.f）的双氧水、0.5~1%（o.w.f）的去油灵、1~2%（o.w.f）的退浆剂，其余为水。
11.根据权利要求1所述的一种无纫线防寒服面料及其制备方法，其特征在于，所述的染色处理的具体方法为：于气流缸中采用分散染料进行所述的染色，控制染色浴比为1:6~10，染色温度为125~130℃，保温时间为30~40min，pH为5~6。
12.根据权利要求1所述的一种无纫线防寒服面料及其制备方法，其特征在于，所述的定型后整理处理的具体方法为：温度区间150~165℃，超喂率-2~0，车速30m/min，后整理助剂配方：0.5~1.5%传化TF-408A，1~1.5%防泼水泼油整理剂，其余为水。
13.根据权利要求12所述的一种无纫线防寒服面料及其制备方法，其特征在于，所述的定型后整理助剂配方：1%传化TF-408A，1.2%防泼水泼油整理剂，其余为水。
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Application publication date: 20190927