CN109440244A - 绢麻混纺工艺 - Google Patents

绢麻混纺工艺 Download PDF

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CN109440244A
CN109440244A CN201811636341.2A CN201811636341A CN109440244A CN 109440244 A CN109440244 A CN 109440244A CN 201811636341 A CN201811636341 A CN 201811636341A CN 109440244 A CN109440244 A CN 109440244A
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mixing
silk
flax
yarn
spun silk
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崔建德
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Tongxiang Bangda Wire Industry Co Ltd
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Tongxiang Bangda Wire Industry Co Ltd
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Abstract

一种绢麻混纺工艺，该纱线由80％绢丝纤维、20％亚麻纤维混纺而成，工艺包括：绢丝纤维经过绢纺工艺流程的精炼工序、制棉工序、延展工序、制条工序、并条工序制得绢丝生条；S2亚麻纤维通过经过原麻一浸酸一碱煮一水洗一酸洗一脱水一给油一脱水一烘干—堆仓—软麻—开清棉—梳麻制得亚麻生条；S3绢丝生条和亚麻生条经并条工序制得混合熟条；S4混合熟条延绞工序、粗纱工序和细纱工序制得绢丝/亚麻混纺纱线。并且，本发明通过改良亚麻脱胶用制剂及绢丝脱胶用制剂而达到了提升绢丝机械性能和亚麻纤维纤维细度及机械性能的效果，从而使绢麻混纺而成的纱线具备了绢丝光泽柔和，服用性能良好的特点的同时也兼具了亚麻的挺括、吸湿、防紫外线等优点。

Description

绢麻混纺工艺
技术领域
本发明涉及纺织领域，特别是一种绢麻混纺工艺。
背景技术
随着纤维加工工艺与开发技术的不断提高以及健康环保意识的提升，天然纤维生产的绿色生态产品获得越来越多人的青睐。而在天然纤维中绢丝和亚麻作为两种性能优良，来源丰富的产品在放置领域中占据着重要的地位。
而在中国及东亚文化圈影响范围内，受绢麻优良独特服用性能的影响，它们制成的织物一直是人们追逐的高档产品，广受人们的喜爱。
在实际实用过程中，亚麻产品产品以其卫生性能良好、超强透气性、防腐抑菌、清新自然、防紫外线、防静电等特点，备受消费者喜爱，是国际市场上最受欢迎的纺织面料。而绢丝面料也以坚牢硬挺，吸湿透气，穿着凉爽舒适的特点而备受消费者的青睐。
然而由单一纤维制成的纱线，往往也存在各种缺陷，而不能满足人们服用中的多方面要求。比如亚麻纤维：由于它较高的杨氏模量、较大的聚合度、延伸性小、低弹性、柔软性较差以及制成纱线条干不均匀率大，导致产品外观较差、织物产品褶皱回复性能差和穿着时有比较明显的刺痒感；而绢丝则抗紫外线能力差、易霉变、杨氏模量低、刚性小、织物硬挺度差。
发明内容
本发明的目的在于：提供一种能够生产既能够体现亚麻的挺括、透气、吸湿放湿快等优良特点，又融入了绢丝绢柔、悬垂、凉爽、不贴身的服用性能的混纺纱线的绢麻混纺工艺。
为实现上述技术效果，本发明的详细技术方案为：
一种绢麻混纺工艺，该绢麻混纺纱线按以下重量百分比混纺而成：绢丝纤维80％，亚麻纤维20％，其特征在于：所述绢麻混纺工艺包括以下几个步骤：
S1：将绢丝纤维经过绢纺工艺流程的精炼工序、制棉工序、延展工序、制条工序、并条工序制得绢丝生条；
S2：将亚麻纤维通过经过原麻一浸酸一碱煮一水洗一酸洗一脱水一给油一脱水一烘干—堆仓—软麻—开清棉—梳麻制得亚麻生条；
S3：将绢丝生条和亚麻生条经棉纺工艺流程的并条工序制得混合熟条，其中本步骤中并条采用四道并条工序；
S4：将混合熟条经绢纺工艺流程的延绞工序、粗纱工序和细纱工序制得绢丝/亚麻混纺纱线；
S5：对制得的绢丝/亚麻混纺纱线进行染色处理；采用筒子纱染色的方式，使用B型活性染料染料对混纺纱采用一浴法进行染色；
采用松式络筒机的上油装置，对混纺纱均匀上助剂，同时络成染色所需要的松式筒纱，松式筒纱的密度为0.4-0.45g/cm3；并静置设定时间，单只松式筒纱的重量为0.8-0.9kg；所使用的助剂为精练剂、JFC渗透剂、去油剂水溶液；所加入精练剂的浓度为5-10g/L、去油剂的浓度为40-50g/L、JFC渗透剂的浓度为8-15g/L；静置时间为12-16小时；
对混纺进行染色前处理，是将静置后的松式筒纱置入染缸内，按照浴比为1：6-10加入前处理液，所述的前处理液中含有3-4g/L的精练剂W 100、2-3g/L的稳定剂H2O2、1-2g/L的碳酸钠、1-1.5g/L的硅酸钠、0.2-0.5g/L的保险粉、0.15-0.3g/L的平平加O，从室温按照0.8-1.2℃/min的速率升温至85-90℃，恒温运转50～60min，将液体排出后，使用60-65℃温度的清水水洗10-15min，再在45-50℃条件下使用pH值为5.5-6.7的醋酸溶液进行酸洗12-15min，排出醋酸溶液后再常温下使用清水水洗0.5h；
对混纺纱进行染色，所采用浴比为1：25-30，B型活性染料8％、高温匀染剂、软水剂、纯碱、沉淀防止剂、元明粉；在40-45℃入染，保温10-15min，再并按照2-3℃/min的速度升温至50-60℃，再按照1/3-1℃/min的速度升温至60-70℃，保温60-70min，之后溢流降温水洗5-10min，排出染液；再在40-50℃条件下进行还原清洗10-20min，室温下进行水洗，并烘干；所使用的还原清洗液中含有2-5g/L的碳酸钠、2-3g/L的保险粉、1-2g/L的阴离子合成单宁类固色剂；
其中所述S2步骤中，浸酸工序中的参数为：H2S04：1.84g/L，温度：25℃，时间0.5h；所述碱煮工序中的参数为：NaOH 18～20％，磷酸三钠7％(对亚麻重)、硅酸钠2％、亚硫酸钠2％、尿素5g/L，浴比1：20，沸煮时间100～120min；所述水洗工艺参数为：两道热水(70℃～90℃)冲洗，再用冷水冲洗；所述酸洗工序中的参数为：H2SO41.84g/L，温度：常温，时间10min；所述烘干工序中的参数为：温度100℃，时间：1h。
进一步地，所述S1步骤中，精炼工序包括以下几个步骤：选别—脱胶—水洗—烘干；其中其中所述脱胶包括过酸预处理一初练一复练一后处理；所述过酸预处理工序中的参数为：丁二酸：12g/L，温度：90～100℃，时间：0.5h；浴比：1:50。
进一步地，所述S3步骤中采用四道并条工序将绢丝生条和亚麻生条制成混合熟条，四道并条工序包括头道并条工序、二道并条工序、三道并条工序和四道并条工序；其中，头道并条工序中，采用10并(八根绢条两根麻条)，前罗拉线速度为65～75m/min，罗拉隔距分别为10mm×18mm，总牵伸倍数9.385倍，后驱牵伸倍数1.75倍，头道并条定量18g/5m，喇叭口直径3.4mm；二道并条工序中，前罗拉线速度为70～80m/min，10根头道并条并合，罗拉隔距为10mm×18mm，总牵伸倍数为10.202倍，后区牵伸倍数为1.42倍，二道并条定量为17.5g/5m，喇叭口直径为3.2mm；三道并条工序中，前罗拉线速度为70～80m/min，10根二道并条并合，罗拉隔距为10mm×18mm，总牵伸倍数为9.87倍，后区牵伸倍数为1.38倍，混纺熟条定量为17.5g/5m，喇叭口直径3.2mm；四道并条工序中，前罗拉线速度为45～55m/min，10根三道并条并合，罗拉隔距为10mm×18mm，总牵伸倍数为7.45倍，后区牵伸倍数为1.21倍，混纺熟条定量为17g/5m，喇叭口直径3.0mm。
本发明的有益效果为：通过本绢麻混纺工艺，将绢丝和亚麻制成质量良好的混纺纱线，该纱线及制成的织物挺括、透气、悬垂性良好、外观华贵、吸湿性强、保健性强、且服用性能良好、适于制作各种家纺产品、内外衣等。
具体实施方式
下面结合实施例对本发明作进一步详细面熟。但是本发明不限于所给出的例子。
实施例1
将绢丝纤维经绢纺工艺流程的精炼工序、制棉工序、延展工序、制条工序、并条工序制得绢丝生条；将亚麻纤维通过经过原麻一浸酸一碱煮一水洗一酸洗一脱水一给油一脱水一烘干—堆仓—软麻—开清棉—梳麻制得亚麻生条；将绢丝生条和亚麻生条经棉纺工艺流程的并条工序制得混合熟条，其中本步骤中并条采用四道并条工序；将混合熟条经绢纺工艺流程的延绞工序、粗纱工序和细纱工序制得绢丝/亚麻混纺纱线，其中绢丝/亚麻混纺纱线中绢丝纤维含80％，亚麻纤维含20％。
其中，为了使亚麻能够更加有有效的实现化学脱胶，同时使脱胶后的亚麻纤维的性质更加贴近绢丝的特性。
在亚麻脱胶工程中：将经过预水煮浸后的亚麻浸入到配置有H2S04：1.84g/L、温度为25℃的酸液中浸渍0.5h，已使亚麻上的果胶、半纤维素能够裂构出去，同时出去部分水溶物。从而减少碱煮工序中的耗碱量。
在浸酸工序结束后，将经过处理的亚麻浸入到配置有NaOH 18～20％，磷酸三钠7％(对亚麻重)、硅酸钠2％、亚硫酸钠2％、尿素5g/L的溶液中进行沸煮。其中该步工序中的浴比为1:20；同时碱煮时间与亚麻纤维细度最经济高效的时间为100～120min。在本实施例中，通过控制碱液中各种制剂的浓度，有效的达到了提高亚麻纤维细度和柔软度的作用，且通过本实施例中碱煮工序处理后的亚麻纤维的机械性能与绢丝机械性能相接近符合混纺要求。详细数据由表1、表2表示；
在碱煮工序结束后，为了去除残留在亚麻纤维上的碱液及粘附在纤维上的胶质，并提升亚麻的白度、柔软度及松散性并改善纤维的表面状态，提高其吸附性能及润湿性。还需要进行水洗工序和酸洗工序。
当上述工序完成后对亚麻纤维实施脱水一给油一脱水一烘干—堆仓—软麻—开清棉—梳麻等工序以制得亚麻生条。
而在绢丝生条的制取工艺中，详细的，包括以下步骤选别—脱胶—水洗—烘干；其中其中所述脱胶包括过酸预处理一初练一复练一后处理；所述过酸预处理工序中的参数为：丁二酸：12g/L，温度：90～100℃，时间：0.5h；浴比：1:50。在本实施例中，通过实用丁二酸代替传统的碳酸钠脱胶，在没有降低脱胶效率的情况下有效的提升了绢丝的机械性能：绢丝的断裂强度、断裂强力、断裂伸长等。详细数据由表3表示。
而在完成绢丝生条、亚麻生条的制条后，需将将绢丝生条和亚麻生条制成混合熟条。在本实施例中，为了使制得的混合熟条更加均匀，采用四道并条工序，包括头道并条工序、二道并条工序、三道并条工序和四道并条工序；其中，头道并条工序中，采用10并(八根绢条两根麻条)，前罗拉线速度为65～75m/min，罗拉隔距分别为10mm×18mm，总牵伸倍数9.385倍，后驱牵伸倍数1.75倍，头道并条定量18g/5m，喇叭口直径3.4mm；二道并条工序中，前罗拉线速度为70～80m/min，10根头道并条并合，罗拉隔距为10mm×18mm，总牵伸倍数为10.202倍，后区牵伸倍数为1.42倍，二道并条定量为17.5g/5m，喇叭口直径为3.2mm；三道并条工序中，前罗拉线速度为70～80m/min，10根二道并条并合，罗拉隔距为10mm×18mm，总牵伸倍数为9.87倍，后区牵伸倍数为1.38倍，混纺熟条定量为17.5g/5m，喇叭口直径3.2mm；四道并条工序中，前罗拉线速度为45～55m/min，10根三道并条并合，罗拉隔距为10mm×18mm，总牵伸倍数为7.45倍，后区牵伸倍数为1.21倍，混纺熟条定量为17g/5m，喇叭口直径3.0mm。
在将亚麻生条和绢丝生条制成混合熟条后，在通过绢纺工艺流程的延绞工序、粗纱工序和细纱工序制得绢丝/亚麻混纺纱线。
最后对经过上述步骤处理后的绢麻混纺纱线进行染色处理，其处理过程为：对制得的绢丝/亚麻混纺纱线进行染色处理；采用筒子纱染色的方式，使用B型活性染料染料对混纺纱采用一浴法进行染色；
采用松式络筒机的上油装置，对混纺纱均匀上助剂，同时络成染色所需要的松式筒纱，松式筒纱的密度为0.4-0.45g/cm3；并静置设定时间，单只松式筒纱的重量为0.8-0.9kg；所使用的助剂为精练剂、JFC渗透剂、去油剂水溶液；所加入精练剂的浓度为5-10g/L、去油剂的浓度为40-50g/L、JFC渗透剂的浓度为8-15g/L；静置时间为12-16小时；
对混纺进行染色前处理，是将静置后的松式筒纱置入染缸内，按照浴比为1：6-10加入前处理液，所述的前处理液中含有3-4g/L的精练剂W 100、2-3g/L的稳定剂H2O2、1-2g/L的碳酸钠、1-1.5g/L的硅酸钠、0.2-0.5g/L的保险粉、0.15-0.3g/L的平平加O，从室温按照0.8-1.2℃/min的速率升温至85-90℃，恒温运转50～60min，将液体排出后，使用60-65℃温度的清水水洗10-15min，再在45-50℃条件下使用pH值为5.5-6.7的醋酸溶液进行酸洗12-15min，排出醋酸溶液后再常温下使用清水水洗0.5h；
对混纺纱进行染色，所采用浴比为1：25-30，B型活性染料8％、高温匀染剂、软水剂、纯碱、沉淀防止剂、元明粉；在40-45℃入染，保温10-15min，再并按照2-3℃/min的速度升温至50-60℃，再按照1/3-1℃/min的速度升温至60-70℃，保温60-70min，之后溢流降温水洗5-10min，排出染液；再在40-50℃条件下进行还原清洗10-20min，室温下进行水洗，并烘干；所使用的还原清洗液中含有2-5g/L的碳酸钠、2-3g/L的保险粉、1-2g/L的阴离子合成单宁类固色剂。通过本工艺步骤的绢麻混纺纱线的染色效果在表4中作出充分体现。
而经过本实施例制得的绢麻混纺纱线及使用该绢麻混纺纱线织造的面料良好的集成了绢丝面料和亚麻面料的优点。
对比例1
本对比例针对亚麻脱胶工序中碱煮工艺中NaOH浓度作出变换；详细为，NaOH5％，磷酸三钠7％(对亚麻重)、硅酸钠2％、亚硫酸钠2％、尿素5g/L的溶液中进行沸煮。其中该步工序中的浴比为1:20；同时碱煮时间与亚麻纤维细度最经济高效的时间为100～120min。
对比例2
本对比例针对亚麻脱胶工序中碱煮工艺中NaOH浓度作出变换；详细为，NaOH10％，磷酸三钠7％(对亚麻重)、硅酸钠2％、亚硫酸钠2％、尿素5g/L的溶液中进行沸煮。其中该步工序中的浴比为1:20；同时碱煮时间与亚麻纤维细度最经济高效的时间为100～120min。
对比例3
本对比例针对亚麻脱胶工序中碱煮工艺中NaOH浓度作出变换；详细为，NaOH15％，磷酸三钠7％(对亚麻重)、硅酸钠2％、亚硫酸钠2％、尿素5g/L的溶液中进行沸煮。其中该步工序中的浴比为1:20；同时碱煮时间与亚麻纤维细度最经济高效的时间为100～120min。
以下表格为：
表1是实施例1及对比例中NaOH对于亚麻纤维机械性能的数据对照表；
表2是实施例1及对比例中NaOH对于亚麻纤维的纤维细度的数据对照表；
表3是绢丝用实施例1中的丁二酸及现有的碳酸钠脱胶后的机械性能对照表；
表4是实施例1中80/20绢麻混纺纱线的染色色差数据表。
其中表格1和2中碱煮时间为120min，且碱煮溶液中其与添加剂浓度不作改变。
表1：
NaOH浓度/％ 5 10 15 18～20
断裂强度/cN/dtex 3.04 2.81 2.61 2.68
断裂伸长率/％ 3.52 3.42 3.05 3.03
表2：
表3：
项目 绢丝原样 丁二酸脱胶样品 碳酸钠脱胶样品
断裂强度/cN/dtex 4.02 3.44±0.5 3.35±0.03
断裂强力/cN 98.2 62.0±0.9 60.5±0.8
断裂强力损失率/％ 0 36.5±0.9 38.3±0.7
断裂伸长/mm 3.54 2.95±0.09 2.87±0.07
断裂伸长损失率/％ 0 16.7±0.24 18.9±0.16
表4：
染料 △E △C △L △H
活性红 0.820 0.317 0.692 -0.307
活性黄 0.689 0.417 0.513 -0.192
活性藏青 1.213 0.773 0.839 -0.411

Claims (3)

1.一种绢麻混纺工艺，该绢麻混纺纱线按以下重量百分比混纺而成：绢丝纤维80％，亚麻纤维20％，其特征在于：所述绢麻混纺工艺包括以下几个步骤：
S1：将绢丝纤维经过绢纺工艺流程的精炼工序、制棉工序、延展工序、制条工序、并条工序制得绢丝生条；
S2：将亚麻纤维通过经过原麻一浸酸一碱煮一水洗一酸洗一脱水一给油一脱水一烘干—堆仓—软麻—开清棉—梳麻制得亚麻生条；
S3：将绢丝生条和亚麻生条经棉纺工艺流程的并条工序制得混合熟条，其中本步骤中并条采用四道并条工序；
S4：将混合熟条经绢纺工艺流程的延绞工序、粗纱工序和细纱工序制得绢丝/亚麻混纺纱线；
S5：对制得的绢丝/亚麻混纺纱线进行染色处理；采用筒子纱染色的方式，使用B型活性染料对混纺纱采用一浴法进行染色；
采用松式络筒机的上油装置，对混纺纱均匀上助剂，同时络成染色所需要的松式筒纱，松式筒纱的密度为0.4-0.45g/cm3；并静置设定时间，单只松式筒纱的重量为0.8-0.9kg；所使用的助剂为精练剂、JFC渗透剂、去油剂水溶液；所加入精练剂的浓度为5-10g/L、去油剂的浓度为40-50g/L、JFC渗透剂的浓度为8-15g/L；静置时间为12-16小时；
对混纺进行染色前处理，是将静置后的松式筒纱置入染缸内，按照浴比为1：6-10加入前处理液，所述的前处理液中含有3-4g/L的精练剂W 100、2-3g/L的稳定剂H2O2、1-2g/L的碳酸钠、1-1.5g/L的硅酸钠、0.2-0.5g/L的保险粉、0.15-0.3g/L的平平加O，从室温按照0.8-1.2℃/min的速率升温至85-90℃，恒温运转50～60min，将液体排出后，使用60-65℃温度的清水水洗10-15min，再在45-50℃条件下使用pH值为5.5-6.7的醋酸溶液进行酸洗12-15min，排出醋酸溶液后再常温下使用清水水洗0.5h；
对混纺纱进行染色，所采用浴比为1：25-30，B型活性染料8％、高温匀染剂、纯碱、软水剂、沉淀防止剂、元明粉；在40-45℃入染，保温10-15min，再并按照2-3℃/min的速度升温至50-60℃，再按照1/3-1℃/min的速度升温至60-70℃，保温60-70min，之后溢流降温水洗5-10min，排出染液；再在40-50℃条件下进行还原清洗10-20min，室温下进行水洗，并烘干；所使用的还原清洗液中含有2-5g/L的碳酸钠、2-3g/L的保险粉、1-2g/L的阴离子合成单宁类固色剂；
其中，所述S2步骤中，浸酸工序中的参数为：H2SO4：1.84g/L，温度：25℃，时间0.5h；所述碱煮工序中的参数为：NaOH 18～20％，磷酸三钠7％(对亚麻重)、硅酸钠2％、亚硫酸钠2％、尿素5g/L，浴比1：20，沸煮时间100～120min；所述水洗工艺参数为：两道热水(70℃～90℃)冲洗，再用冷水冲洗；所述酸洗工序中的参数为：H2SO4 1.84g/L，温度：常温，时间10min；所述烘干工序中的参数为：温度100℃，时间：1h。
2.如权利要求1所述的一种绢麻混纺工艺，其特征在于：所述S1步骤中，精炼工序包括以下几个步骤：选别—脱胶—水洗—烘干；其中其中所述脱胶包括过酸预处理一初练一复练一后处理；所述过酸预处理工序中的参数为：丁二酸：12g/L，温度：90～100℃，时间：0.5h；浴比：1:50。
3.如权利要求1所述的一种绢麻混纺工艺，其特征在于：所述S3步骤中采用四道并条工序将绢丝生条和亚麻生条制成混合熟条，四道并条工序包括头道并条工序、二道并条工序、三道并条工序和四道并条工序；其中，头道并条工序中，采用10并(八根绢条两根麻条)，前罗拉线速度为65～75m/min，罗拉隔距分别为10mm×18mm，总牵伸倍数9.385倍，后驱牵伸倍数1.75倍，头道并条定量18g/5m，喇叭口直径3.4mm；二道并条工序中，前罗拉线速度为70～80m/min，10根头道并条并合，罗拉隔距为10mm×18mm，总牵伸倍数为10.202倍，后区牵伸倍数为1.42倍，二道并条定量为17.5g/5m，喇叭口直径为3.2mm；三道并条工序中，前罗拉线速度为70～80m/min，10根二道并条并合，罗拉隔距为10mm×18mm，总牵伸倍数为9.87倍，后区牵伸倍数为1.38倍，混纺熟条定量为17.5g/5m，喇叭口直径3.2mm；四道并条工序中，前罗拉线速度为45～55m/min，10根三道并条并合，罗拉隔距为10mm×18mm，总牵伸倍数为7.45倍，后区牵伸倍数为1.21倍，混纺熟条定量为17g/5m，喇叭口直径3.0mm。
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