CN106012522A - 超高支高密衬衫的免烫加工工艺 - Google Patents

超高支高密衬衫的免烫加工工艺 Download PDF

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CN106012522A
CN106012522A CN201610335098.5A CN201610335098A CN106012522A CN 106012522 A CN106012522 A CN 106012522A CN 201610335098 A CN201610335098 A CN 201610335098A CN 106012522 A CN106012522 A CN 106012522A
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周光丽
刘政钦
王志超
赵恋恋
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Luthai Textile Co Ltd
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    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
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    • D06M13/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with non-macromolecular organic compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment
    • D06M13/322—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with non-macromolecular organic compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment with compounds containing nitrogen
    • D06M13/402—Amides imides, sulfamic acids
    • D06M13/432—Urea, thiourea or derivatives thereof, e.g. biurets; Urea-inclusion compounds; Dicyanamides; Carbodiimides; Guanidines, e.g. dicyandiamides
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    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D13/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft
    • D03D13/008—Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft characterised by weave density or surface weight
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
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    • D06C—FINISHING, DRESSING, TENTERING OR STRETCHING TEXTILE FABRICS
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    • D06M11/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising
    • D06M11/07—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising with halogens; with halogen acids or salts thereof; with oxides or oxyacids of halogens or salts thereof
    • D06M11/11—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising with halogens; with halogen acids or salts thereof; with oxides or oxyacids of halogens or salts thereof with halogen acids or salts thereof
    • D06M11/155—Halides of elements of Groups 2 or 12 of the Periodic Table
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    • D06M15/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment
    • D06M15/19—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment with synthetic macromolecular compounds
    • D06M15/21—Macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • D06M15/227—Macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds of hydrocarbons, or reaction products thereof, e.g. afterhalogenated or sulfochlorinated
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    • D06M15/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment
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    • D06M15/19—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment with synthetic macromolecular compounds
    • D06M15/37—Macromolecular compounds obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • D06M15/643—Macromolecular compounds obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds containing silicon in the main chain
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
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Abstract

本发明公开了一种超高支高密衬衫的免烫加工工艺，衬衫面料选用经纱、纬纱在80支单纱到100支单纱和相应的双股、三股纱线精纺纱线，经密为200‑240根/英寸，纬密为100‑120根/英寸，工艺步骤依次为：1)喷施整理液：整理液中改性的二羟甲基二羟基乙烯脲浓度为60～120g/L，六水氯化镁浓度为12～24g/L，改性聚硅氧烷浓度为20～40g/L，聚乙烯保护剂浓度为20～50g/L，聚乙二醇醚浓度为3～10g/，衬衣带液率控制在60～70％；2)预烘干；3)预熨烫；4)立体组合式压烫；5)熨烫；6)90～120℃定型3～15分钟；7)水洗；8)烘干。本发明采用低树脂、低催化剂、低温压烫、低温焙烘的处理工艺，使加工后衬衫各部位的接缝平整度及面料的平整度可达到和谐统一，手感柔软，提升了衬衫的整体服用性能。

Description

超高支高密衬衫的免烫加工工艺
技术领域
本发明涉及一种超高支高密衬衫的免烫加工工艺，属于服装加工技术领域。
背景技术
随着人们对高品质衬衫需求的日益提高，纺织行业对面料高支高密及超高支高密面料的开发已经有了很大的突破，但是在转化为衬衫后，洗后整体效果偏皱，难打理，穿着外观效果不佳。在面料生产过程中进行免烫整理，强力损失严重，且缝制难度大，转化为衬衫后大身面料平整度较好，但是接缝平整度较差，整体不和谐。
发明内容
为了克服上述现有技术的不足，本发明提供了一种能克服上述缺陷、使处理后衬衫手感柔软、各部位的接缝平整度及面料的平整度达到和谐统一的超高支高密衬衫的免烫加工工艺。其技术方案为：
一种超高支高密衬衫的免烫加工工艺，该衬衫面料选用经纱、纬纱为80支单纱到100支单纱和相应的双股、三股纱线精纺纱线，经密为200-240根/英寸，纬密为100-120根/英寸，其特征在于工艺步骤依次为：
1)喷施整理液：整理液中改性的二羟甲基二羟基乙烯脲浓度为60～120g/L，六水氯化镁浓度为12～24g/L，改性聚硅氧烷浓度为20～40g/L，聚乙烯保护剂浓度为20～50g/L，聚乙二醇醚浓度为3～10g/，衬衣带液率控制在60～70％；
2)预烘干：温度控制在20～35℃，含潮率在15～25％；
3)预熨烫：对衬衫的摆缝、门襟和底边接缝部位进行150～160℃、时间0.5～1秒、压力0.5～3N的预定型；
4)压烫：采用立体组合式压烫，温度100～120℃，压力3～5MPa，时间10～40秒；
5)熨烫：对整件衬衫进行整烫，使整件衬衫平整无折；
6)焙烘定型：定型温度为90～120℃，定型用时为3～15分钟；
7)水洗：25～35℃水温水洗5～10分钟；
8)烘干：50～80℃烘干10～30min，再20～30℃冷烘5～10min。
本发明与现有技术相比，采用低树脂(60～120g/L)、低催化剂(12～24g/L)、低温压烫(100～120℃)、低温焙烘(90～120℃)的处理工艺，使加工后衬衫各部位的接缝平整度及面料的平整度可达到和谐统一，手感柔软，提升了衬衫的整体服用性能。
具体实施方式
下面结合实施例，对本发明的具体实施方式作进一步描述。以下实施例仅用于更加清楚地说明本发明的技术方案，而不能以此来限制本发明的保护范围。
实施例1衬衫面料选用经纱、纬纱为80支单纱，经密为200根/英寸，纬密为100根/英寸。具体步骤如下：
1)喷施整理液：整理液中改性的二羟甲基二羟基乙烯脲浓度为60g/L，六水氯化镁浓度为24g/L，改性聚硅氧烷浓度为40g/L，聚乙烯保护剂浓度为50g/L，聚乙二醇醚浓度为10g/，衬衣带液率控制在60％；
2)预烘干：温度控制在20℃，含潮率在25％；
3)预熨烫：对衬衫的摆缝、门襟和底边接缝部位进行160℃、时间1秒、压力3N的预定型；
4)压烫：采用立体组合式压烫，温度120℃，压力5MPa，时间10秒；
5)熨烫：对整件衬衫进行整烫，使整件衬衫平整无折；
6)焙烘定型：定型温度为120℃，定型用时为3分钟；
7)水洗：35℃水温水洗5分钟；
8)烘干：80℃烘干10min，再30℃冷烘10min。
实施例2衬衫面料选用经纱、纬纱100支单纱，经密为220根/英寸，纬密为110根/英寸。具体步骤如下：
1)喷施整理液：整理液中改性的二羟甲基二羟基乙烯脲浓度为120g/L，六水氯化镁浓度为12g/L，改性聚硅氧烷浓度为20g/L，聚乙烯保护剂浓度为20g/L，聚乙二醇醚浓度为3g/，衬衣带液率控制在70％；
2)预烘干：温度控制在35℃，含潮率在15％；
3)预熨烫：对衬衫的摆缝、门襟和底边接缝部位进行160℃、时间0.5秒、压力0.5N的预定型；
4)压烫：采用立体组合式压烫，温度120℃，压力3MPa，时间10秒；
5)熨烫：对整件衬衫进行整烫，使整件衬衫平整无折；
6)焙烘定型：定型温度为90℃，定型用时为15分钟；
7)水洗：50℃水温水洗10分钟；
8)烘干：50℃烘干30min，再20℃冷烘5min。
实施例3衬衫面料选用经纱、纬纱300三股纱线精纺纱线，经密为240根/英寸，纬密为120根/英寸。具体步骤如下：
1)喷施整理液：整理液中改性的二羟甲基二羟基乙烯脲浓度为90g/L，六水氯化镁浓度为18g/L，改性聚硅氧烷浓度为30g/L，聚乙烯保护剂浓度为35g/L，聚乙二醇醚浓度为6.5g/，衬衣带液率控制在65％；
2)预烘干：温度控制在30℃，含潮率在20％；
3)预熨烫：对衬衫的摆缝、门襟和底边接缝部位进行155℃、时间0.8秒、压力2N的预定型；
4)压烫：采用立体组合式压烫，温度110℃，压力4MPa，时间20秒；
5)熨烫：对整件衬衫进行整烫，使整件衬衫平整无折；
6)焙烘定型：定型温度为105℃，定型用时为9分钟；
7)水洗：30℃水温水洗8分钟；
8)烘干：60℃烘干20min，再25℃冷烘7min。
8)烘干：60℃烘干20min，再25℃冷烘7min。
成品测试指标对比
以上所述仅是本发明的优选实施方式，对于本技术领域的技术人员来说，在不脱离本发明技术原理的前提下，还可以做出若干调整和改进，这些调整和改进也应视为本发明的保护范围。

Claims (1)

1.一种超高支高密衬衫的免烫加工工艺，该衬衫面料选用经纱、纬纱为80支单纱到100支单纱和相应的双股、三股纱线精纺纱线，经密为200-240根/英寸，纬密为100-120根/英寸，其特征在于工艺步骤依次为：
1)喷施整理液：整理液中改性的二羟甲基二羟基乙烯脲浓度为60～120g/L，六水氯化镁浓度为12～24g/L，改性聚硅氧烷浓度为20～40g/L，聚乙烯保护剂浓度为20～50g/L，聚乙二醇醚浓度为3～10g/，衬衣带液率控制在60～70％；
2)预烘干：温度控制在20～35℃，含潮率在15～25％；
3)预熨烫：对衬衫的摆缝、门襟和底边接缝部位进行150～160℃、时间0.5～1秒、压力0.5～3N的预定型；
4)压烫：采用立体组合式压烫，温度100～120℃，压力3～5MPa，时间10～40秒；
5)熨烫：对整件衬衫进行整烫，使整件衬衫平整无折；
6)焙烘定型：定型温度为90～120℃，定型用时为3～15分钟；
7)水洗：25～35℃水温水洗5～10分钟；
8)烘干：50～80℃烘干10～30min，再20～30℃冷烘5～10min。
CN201610335098.5A 2016-05-19 2016-05-19 超高支高密衬衫的免烫加工工艺 Pending CN106012522A (zh)

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CN106801339A (zh) * 2016-12-29 2017-06-06 鲁泰纺织股份有限公司 免烫衬衣领尖及袖头的处理工艺
CN107099912A (zh) * 2017-06-29 2017-08-29 鲁泰纺织股份有限公司 交织生态色织面料的生产工艺
CN108193491A (zh) * 2017-12-30 2018-06-22 广东溢达纺织有限公司 免烫整理剂及其制备方法和应用
CN113684584A (zh) * 2021-08-06 2021-11-23 鲁泰纺织股份有限公司 纯棉色织高支高密免烫面料的制备方法
CN113789658A (zh) * 2021-09-28 2021-12-14 鲁泰纺织股份有限公司 纯棉针织衬衫成衣免烫生产方法

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Cited By (6)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
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CN106801339A (zh) * 2016-12-29 2017-06-06 鲁泰纺织股份有限公司 免烫衬衣领尖及袖头的处理工艺
CN107099912A (zh) * 2017-06-29 2017-08-29 鲁泰纺织股份有限公司 交织生态色织面料的生产工艺
CN108193491A (zh) * 2017-12-30 2018-06-22 广东溢达纺织有限公司 免烫整理剂及其制备方法和应用
CN113684584A (zh) * 2021-08-06 2021-11-23 鲁泰纺织股份有限公司 纯棉色织高支高密免烫面料的制备方法
CN113684584B (zh) * 2021-08-06 2023-03-14 鲁泰纺织股份有限公司 纯棉色织高支高密免烫面料的制备方法
CN113789658A (zh) * 2021-09-28 2021-12-14 鲁泰纺织股份有限公司 纯棉针织衬衫成衣免烫生产方法

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