CN105463824A - 具有四面弹性功能的面料及其制作工艺 - Google Patents

具有四面弹性功能的面料及其制作工艺 Download PDF

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CN105463824A
CN105463824A CN201510873251.5A CN201510873251A CN105463824A CN 105463824 A CN105463824 A CN 105463824A CN 201510873251 A CN201510873251 A CN 201510873251A CN 105463824 A CN105463824 A CN 105463824A
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fabric
cloth
grey cloth
side elastic
elastic function
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CN105463824B (zh
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刘长申
吴杨春
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Jinjiang Longxinglong Dyeing & Weaving Industrial Co Ltd
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Jinjiang Longxinglong Dyeing & Weaving Industrial Co Ltd
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    • D06M11/32Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising with oxygen, ozone, ozonides, oxides, hydroxides or percompounds; Salts derived from anions with an amphoteric element-oxygen bond
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    • D06M13/282Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with non-macromolecular organic compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment with compounds containing sulfur or phosphorus with compounds containing phosphorus
    • D06M13/292Mono-, di- or triesters of phosphoric or phosphorous acids; Salts thereof
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    • D06M15/19Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment with synthetic macromolecular compounds
    • D06M15/21Macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • D06M15/263Macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds of unsaturated carboxylic acids; Salts or esters thereof
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    • D06P1/00General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed
    • D06P1/44General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed using insoluble pigments or auxiliary substances, e.g. binders
    • D06P1/60General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed using insoluble pigments or auxiliary substances, e.g. binders using compositions containing polyethers
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    • D06P5/00Other features in dyeing or printing textiles, or dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form
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    • D06M2101/16Synthetic fibres, other than mineral fibres
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    • D06M2101/16Synthetic fibres, other than mineral fibres
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Abstract

本发明涉及一种具有四面弹性功能的面料及其制作工艺,属于纺织印染技术领域。该具有四面弹性功能的面料的制作工艺包括如下步骤:配布、冷堆、连续退浆、预定型、盘布、染色、固色、定型烘干、中检、成品定型和成品包装。本发明工艺制得的面料不仅具有优异的弹性和回复性,还具有优异的透气性和抗磨性;此外本发明还对连续退浆的工艺进行了改进,并研发了在连续退浆过程中使用的助剂,使面料在经过后续的处理工艺后,不仅具有优异的弹性和回复性,还具有优异的透气性和抗磨性;本发明所得面料可以在短时间内恢复面料原有的形状,从而保持衣服在穿着过程中的美观性,布料表面平整,在使用过程中不会起皱变形,而且其舒适性极佳,手感柔软舒适。

Description

具有四面弹性功能的面料及其制作工艺
技术领域
本发明属于纺织印染技术领域,具体涉及一种具有四面弹性功能的面料及其制作工艺。
背景技术
随着人们生活条件的不断改善,人们对着装布料的功能性选择要求也越来越高,除了要求布料有正常的保暖性及穿着舒适性外,还会考虑布料具有的其他更多性能。目前,研发人员在制作面料时首先会考虑面料的柔软性、吸湿排汗性、抗磨性、抗皱性等功能指标,因为很多面料在经过一定时间的穿着使用后会出现严重变形的现象,影响穿着舒适感及美观性。
而具有四面弹性功能的面料因其优异的弹性,可以适应人体的活动,随伸随缩,轻快舒适,而且也能保持服装的外部美观性,一般衣服的膝部和肘部等部位会因人体长时间的穿着或活动而无法在短时间内恢复原状,而导致上述部位的面料仍保持膝部和肘部弯曲时的形状而鼓起,而具有四面弹性功能的面料可以在短时间内恢复面料原有的形状,从而保持衣服在穿着过程中的美观性,因此该面料特别适合应用于运动及休闲服饰中。
虽然四面弹性功能面料具有一般面料所不具备的性能,但是因为其制作工艺比较复杂,制作过程较难控制,在生产过程中的每个细节均要求严谨,才能保证产品的功能达到最佳效果,因此风险较大,而且其生产成本较高,因此对四面弹性功能面料的制作工艺进行研究,具有极大的价值和意义。
发明内容
本发明的目的是克服现有技术的不足而提供一种具有四面弹性功能的面料及其制作工艺,采用本发明工艺制作的具有四面弹性功能的面料,不仅具有优异的弹性和回弹性,而且其布面更加平整、柔软,有效提高穿着舒适性。
本发明采用如下技术方案:
具有四面弹性功能的面料的制作工艺,包括如下步骤:
步骤一,配布:采用经纱尼龙70D+氨纶40D×纬纱尼龙70D+氨纶40D的坯布进行配布;
步骤二,冷堆:将步骤一所得坯布通过冷堆机进行冷轧泡液,第一化料槽的温度为55℃~65℃,第二化料槽的温度为75℃~85℃,第三化料槽的温度为75℃~85℃,以50m ⁄ min的速度进行,后将坯布卷在轴车上转动23~25h,即得冷堆胚布;其中,第一化料槽、第二化料槽和第三化料槽中添加的助剂为:按照水量计依次加入液碱55~65g ⁄ L、渗透剂3~5g ⁄ L、去油剂4~7g ⁄ L、精炼剂10~14g ⁄ L,混合搅拌均匀;
步骤三,连续退浆:将步骤二所得冷堆坯布连续退浆机进行退浆清洗,退浆槽中按照水量计同时添加如下助剂:茶皂素18-22g ⁄ L、茶皂粉1-3g ⁄ L、液碱19-21g ⁄ L,搅拌均匀即可,退浆槽温度为85℃~95℃,水洗槽温度为75℃~85℃,轧车压力1.5~2.5kg,张力杆压力2~3kg,以50m/min的速度进行,使用布车落布,得退浆后的坯布;
步骤四,预定型:将步骤三所得退浆后的坯布进行预定型,以温度190℃×车速30m ⁄min×成品幅宽×5%超喂进行定型,得预定型后的坯布;
步骤五,盘布:用经轴盘布机将步骤四所得预定型后的坯布进行盘布,在水槽温度70℃~80℃、张力5.5~6.5kg、车速75~85m ⁄min下,将盘布后的布卷取于经轴网管上,准备入缸染色;
步骤六,染色:将步骤五所述布卷推进染缸内,将染缸内注满水后,以5000L/min的流量循环,加入所述布卷重量2%~4%的匀染剂运行5min,再加入所述布卷重量2%~4%的染料运行20~30min,后以0.5℃/min的升温速率升温至100~110℃,保温30~60min,当温度升至48~52℃时开始加冰醋酸,在60~80min内调节pH4.0~7.5之间,染色保温后排液,水洗,取样对色,得染色后的坯布;
步骤七,固色:再加入所述布卷重量8%~10%的固色剂,于80~85℃下保温20~30min后,水洗出缸,取样对色,即得固色后的坯布;
步骤八,定型烘干:将步骤七所得固色后的坯布,以室温190℃×车速30m/min×成品幅宽×5%超喂进行烘干定型,用布车落布,得定型烘干后的坯布;
步骤九,中检:将步骤八所得定型烘干后的胚布依产品布面要求进行检验,得合格坯布;
步骤十,成品定型:将步骤九所得合格胚布,以温度190℃×车速30m ⁄ min×成品幅宽×5%超喂进行定型;
步骤十一,成品包装:对布面进行检验分等级后进行包装,即得所述具有四面弹性功能的面料。
更进一步的,所述的具有四面弹性功能的面料的制作工艺,其中步骤二中所述将步骤一所得坯布通过冷堆机进行冷轧泡液。
更进一步的,所述的具有四面弹性功能的面料的制作工艺,其中步骤二和步骤三中所述液碱为氢氧化钠。
更进一步的,所述的具有四面弹性功能的面料的制作工艺,其中步骤二中所述渗透剂为磺化琥珀酸二辛酯钠盐。
更进一步的,所述的具有四面弹性功能的面料的制作工艺,其中步骤二中所述去油剂为乙烯-甲基丙烯酸酯聚合物。
更进一步的,所述的具有四面弹性功能的面料的制作工艺,其中步骤二中所述精炼剂为脂肪醇醚磷酸脂。
更进一步的,所述的具有四面弹性功能的面料的制作工艺,其中步骤六中所述匀染剂为脂肪醇聚氧乙烯醚。
更进一步的,所述的具有四面弹性功能的面料的制作工艺,其中步骤七中所述固色剂为酚磺酸甲醛缩合物。
更进一步的,所述的具有四面弹性功能的面料的制作工艺,其中步骤三中所述退浆采用连续退浆机进行退浆。
本发明还提供一种由所述的制作工艺制得的具有四面弹性功能的面料
本发明与现有技术相比,具有以下有益效果:
第一,本发明通过配布、冷堆、连续退浆、预定型、盘布、染色、固色、定型烘干、中检、成品定型等步骤,使制得的面料不仅具有优异的弹性和回复性,还具有优异的透气性和抗磨性;尤其是在冷堆步骤,对其处理参数的研究和助剂的选用对面料的性能有较大的影响,本发明对冷堆的处理条件和使用助剂进行了优化,不仅节约了成本和能源,还让坯布内部含有的浆料、油渍等物质充分澎润,使得面料在后续的处理中更容易退浆;此外本发明还对连续退浆的工艺进行了改进,并研发了在连续退浆过程中使用的助剂,有效保证了面料的弹性;本发明中的预定型步骤有效保证了布面平整和后续染色时坯布对染料的吸收更充分;
第二,本发明所得具有四面弹性功能的面料可以在短时间内恢复面料原有的形状,从而保持衣服在穿着过程中的美观性,布料表面平整,在使用过程中不会起皱变形,而且其舒适性极佳,手感柔软舒适;
第三,本发明的制作工艺条件较为温和,生产过程易于控制,可操作性强,适于大范围推广应用。
具体实施方式
下面通过具体实施方式对本发明作进一步详细说明,但本领域技术人员将会理解,下列实施例仅用于说明本发明,而不应视为限定本发明的范围。
实施例 1
具有四面弹性功能的面料的制作工艺,包括如下步骤:
步骤一,配布:采用经纱尼龙70D+氨纶40D×纬纱尼龙70D+氨纶40D的坯布进行配布;
步骤二,冷堆:将步骤一所得坯布通过冷堆机进行冷轧泡液,第一化料槽的温度为60℃,第二化料槽的温度为80℃,第三化料槽的温度为80℃,以50m ⁄ min的速度进行,后将坯布卷在轴车上转动24h,即得冷堆坯布;其中,第一化料槽、第二化料槽和第三化料槽中添加的助剂为:按照水量计依次加入液碱(氢氧化钠)60g ⁄ L、渗透剂(磺化琥珀酸二辛酯钠盐)4g ⁄ L、去油剂(乙烯-甲基丙烯酸酯聚合物)5g ⁄ L、精炼剂(脂肪醇醚磷酸脂)12g ⁄ L,混合搅拌均匀;
步骤三,连续退浆:将步骤二所得冷堆坯布连续退浆机进行退浆清洗,退浆槽中按照水量计同时添加如下助剂:茶皂素20g ⁄ L、茶皂粉1g ⁄ L、液碱20g ⁄ L,搅拌均匀即可,退浆槽温度为90℃,水洗槽温度为80℃,轧车压力2kg,张力杆压力2.5kg,以50m/min的速度进行,使用布车落布,得退浆后的坯布;
步骤四,预定型:将步骤三所得退浆后的坯布进行预定型,以温度190℃×车速30m ⁄min×成品幅宽×5%超喂进行定型,得预定型后的坯布;
步骤五,盘布:用经轴盘布机将步骤四所得预定型后的坯布进行盘布,在水槽温度75℃、张力6kg、车速80m ⁄min下,将盘布后的布卷取于经轴网管上,准备入缸染色;
步骤六,染色:将步骤五所述布卷推进染缸内,将染缸内注满水后,以5000L/min的流量循环,加入所述布卷重量3%的匀染剂(脂肪醇聚氧乙烯醚)运行5min,再加入所述布卷重量3%的染料运行25min,后以0.5℃/min的升温速率升温至105℃,保温45min,当温度升至50℃时开始加酸,在70min内调节pH为6之间,染色保温后排液,水洗,取样对色,得染色后的坯布;
步骤七,固色:再加入所述布卷重量9%的固色剂(酚磺酸甲醛缩合物),于82℃下保温25min后,水洗出缸,取样对色,即得固色后的坯布;
步骤八,定型烘干:将步骤七所得固色后的坯布,以室温190℃×车速30m/min×成品幅宽×5%超喂进行烘干定型,用布车落布,得定型烘干后的坯布;
步骤九,中检:将步骤八所得定型烘干后的坯布依产品布面要求进行检验,得合格坯布;
步骤十,成品定型:将步骤九所得合格坯布,以温度190℃×车速30m ⁄ min×成品幅宽×5%超喂进行定型;
步骤十一,成品包装:对布面进行检验分等级后进行包装,即得所述具有四面弹性功能的面料。
实施例 2
具有四面弹性功能的面料的制作工艺,包括如下步骤:
步骤一,配布:采用经纱尼龙70D+氨纶40D×纬纱尼龙70D+氨纶40D的坯布进行配布;
步骤二,冷堆:将步骤一所得坯布通过冷堆机进行冷轧泡液,第一化料槽的温度为55℃℃,第二化料槽的温度为75℃,第三化料槽的温度为75℃,以50m ⁄ min的速度进行,后将胚布卷在轴车上转动25h,即得冷堆坯布;其中,第一化料槽、第二化料槽和第三化料槽中添加的助剂为:按照水量计依次加入液碱(氢氧化钠)55g ⁄ L、渗透剂(磺化琥珀酸二辛酯钠盐)3g ⁄ L、去油剂(乙烯-甲基丙烯酸酯聚合物)4g ⁄ L、精炼剂(脂肪醇醚磷酸脂)10g ⁄ L,混合搅拌均匀;
步骤三,连续退浆:将步骤二所得冷堆坯布连续退浆机进行退浆清洗,退浆槽中按照水量计同时添加如下助剂:茶皂素18g ⁄ L、茶皂粉1g ⁄ L、液碱19g ⁄ L,搅拌均匀即可,退浆槽温度为85℃,水洗槽温度为75℃,轧车压力1.5kg,张力杆压力2kg,以50m/min的速度进行,使用布车落布,得退浆后的坯布;
步骤四,预定型:将步骤三所得退浆后的坯布进行预定型,以温度190℃×车速30m ⁄min×成品幅宽×5%超喂进行定型,得预定型后的坯布;
步骤五,盘布:用经轴盘布机将步骤四所得预定型后的坯布进行盘布,在水槽温度70℃、张力5.5kg、车速75~85m ⁄min下,将盘布后的布卷取于经轴网管上,准备入缸染色;
步骤六,染色:将步骤五所述布卷推进染缸内,将染缸内注满水后,以5000L/min的流量循环,加入所述布卷重量2%的匀染剂(脂肪醇聚氧乙烯醚)运行5min,再加入所述布卷重量2%的染料运行30min,后以0.5℃/min的升温速率升温至100℃,保温60min,当温度升至48℃时开始加酸,在60min内调节pH为4.0之间,染色保温后排液,水洗,取样对色,得染色后的坯布;
步骤七,固色:再加入所述布卷重量8%的固色剂(酚磺酸甲醛缩合物),于80℃下保温30min后,水洗出缸,取样对色,即得固色后的坯布;
步骤八,定型烘干:将步骤七所得固色后的坯布,以室温190℃×车速30m/min×成品幅宽×5%超喂进行烘干定型,用布车落布,得定型烘干后的坯布;
步骤九,中检:将步骤八所得定型烘干后的坯布依产品布面要求进行检验,得合格坯布;
步骤十,成品定型:将步骤九所得合格坯布,以温度190℃×车速30m ⁄ min×成品幅宽×5%超喂进行定型;
步骤十一,成品包装:对布面进行检验分等级后进行包装,即得所述具有四面弹性功能的面料。
实施例 3
具有四面弹性功能的面料的制作工艺,包括如下步骤:
步骤一,配布:采用经纱尼龙70D+氨纶40D×纬纱尼龙70D+氨纶40D的坯布进行配布;
步骤二,冷堆:将步骤一所得坯布通过冷堆机进行冷轧泡液,第一化料槽的温度为55℃,第二化料槽的温度为85℃,第三化料槽的温度为85℃,以50m ⁄ min的速度进行,后将坯布卷在轴车上转动23h,即得冷堆坯布;其中,第一化料槽、第二化料槽和第三化料槽中添加的助剂为:按照水量计依次加入液碱(氢氧化钠)65g ⁄ L、渗透剂(磺化琥珀酸二辛酯钠盐)5g ⁄ L、去油剂(乙烯-甲基丙烯酸酯聚合物)7g ⁄ L、精炼剂(脂肪醇醚磷酸脂)14g ⁄ L,混合搅拌均匀;
步骤三,连续退浆:将步骤二所得冷堆坯布连续退浆机进行退浆清洗,退浆槽中按照水量计同时添加如下助剂:茶皂素22g ⁄ L、茶皂粉3g ⁄ L、液碱21g ⁄ L,搅拌均匀即可,退浆槽温度为95℃,水洗槽温度为85℃,轧车压力2.5kg,张力杆压力3kg,以50m/min的速度进行,使用布车落布,得退浆后的坯布;
步骤四,预定型:将步骤三所得退浆后的坯布进行预定型,以温度190℃×车速30m ⁄min×成品幅宽×5%超喂进行定型,得预定型后的坯布;
步骤五,盘布:用经轴盘布机将步骤四所得预定型后的坯布进行盘布,在水槽温度80℃、张力6.5kg、车速85m ⁄min下,将盘布后的布卷取于经轴网管上,准备入缸染色;
步骤六,染色:将步骤五所述布卷推进染缸内,将染缸内注满水后,以5000L/min的流量循环,加入所述布卷重量4%的匀染剂(脂肪醇聚氧乙烯醚)运行5min,再加入所述布卷重量4%的染料运行20min,后以0.5℃/min的升温速率升温至110℃,保温30min,当温度升至52℃时开始加酸,在80min内调节pH为7.5之间,染色保温后排液,水洗,取样对色,得染色后的坯布;
步骤七,固色:再加入所述布卷重量10%的固色剂(酚磺酸甲醛缩合物),于85℃下保温20min后,水洗出缸,取样对色,即得固色后的坯布;
步骤八,定型烘干:将步骤七所得固色后的坯布,以室温190℃×车速30m/min×成品幅宽×5%超喂进行烘干定型,用布车落布,得定型烘干后的坯布;
步骤九,中检:将步骤八所得定型烘干后的坯布依产品布面要求进行检验,得合格坯布;
步骤十,成品定型:将步骤九所得合格坯布,以温度190℃×车速30m ⁄ min×成品幅宽×5%超喂进行定型;
步骤十一,成品包装:对布面进行检验分等级后进行包装,即得所述具有四面弹性功能的面料。
将实施例1至3所得具有四面弹性功能的面料进行检测,结果如下表1所示:
表1 性能检测数据
注:CT为横向断裂。

Claims (10)

1.具有四面弹性功能的面料的制作工艺,其特征在于,包括如下步骤:
步骤一,配布:采用经纱尼龙70D+氨纶40D×纬纱尼龙70D+氨纶40D的坯布进行配布;
步骤二,冷堆:将步骤一的坯布进行冷轧泡液,第一化料槽的温度为55℃~65℃,第二化料槽的温度为75℃~85℃,第三化料槽的温度为75℃~85℃,以50m ⁄ min的速度进行,后将坯布卷在轴车上转动23~25h,即得冷堆坯布;其中,第一化料槽、第二化料槽和第三化料槽中添加的助剂为:按照水量计依次加入液碱55~65g ⁄ L、渗透剂3~5g ⁄ L、去油剂4~7g ⁄ L、精炼剂10~14g ⁄ L,混合搅拌均匀;
步骤三,连续退浆:将步骤二所得冷堆坯布进行退浆清洗,退浆槽中按照水量计同时添加如下助剂:茶皂素18-22g ⁄ L、茶皂粉1-3g ⁄ L、液碱19-21g ⁄ L,搅拌均匀即可,退浆槽温度为85℃~95℃,水洗槽温度为75℃~85℃,轧车压力1.5~2.5kg,张力杆压力2~3kg,以50m/min的速度进行,使用布车落布,得退浆后的坯布;
步骤四,预定型:将步骤三所得退浆后的坯布进行预定型,以温度190℃×车速30m ⁄min×成品幅宽×5%超喂进行定型,得预定型后的胚布;
步骤五,盘布:用经轴盘布机将步骤四所得预定型后的坯布进行盘布,在水槽温度70℃~80℃、张力5.5~6.5kg、车速75~85m ⁄min下,将盘布后的布卷取于经轴网管上,准备入缸染色;
步骤六,染色:将步骤五所述布卷推进染缸内,将染缸内注满水后,以5000L/min的流量循环,加入所述布卷重量2%~4%的匀染剂运行5min,再加入所述布卷重量2%~4%的染料运行20~30min,后以0.5℃/min的升温速率升温至100~110℃,保温30~60min,当温度升至48~52℃时开始加冰醋酸,在60~80min内调节pH为4.0~7.5之间,染色保温后排液,水洗,取样对色,得染色后的坯布;
步骤七,固色:再加入所述布卷重量8%~10%的固色剂,于80~85℃下保温20~30min后,水洗出缸,取样对色,即得固色后的坯布;
步骤八,定型烘干:将步骤七所得固色后的坯布,以室温190℃×车速30m/min×成品幅宽×5%超喂进行烘干定型,用布车落布,得定型烘干后的坯布;
步骤九,中检:将步骤八所得定型烘干后的坯布依产品布面要求进行检验,得合格坯布;
步骤十,成品定型:将步骤九所得合格坯布,以温度190℃×车速30m ⁄ min×成品幅宽×5%超喂进行定型;
步骤十一,成品包装:对布面进行检验分等级后进行包装,即得所述具有四面弹性功能的面料。
2.根据权利要求1所述的具有四面弹性功能的面料的制作工艺,其特征在于,步骤二中所述将步骤一所得胚布通过冷堆机进行冷轧泡液。
3.根据权利要求1所述的具有四面弹性功能的面料的制作工艺,其特征在于,步骤二和步骤三中所述液碱为氢氧化钠。
4.根据权利要求1所述的具有四面弹性功能的面料的制作工艺,其特征在于,步骤二中所述渗透剂为磺化琥珀酸二辛酯钠盐。
5.根据权利要求1所述的具有四面弹性功能的面料的制作工艺,其特征在于,步骤二中所述去油剂为乙烯-甲基丙烯酸酯聚合物。
6.根据权利要求1所述的具有四面弹性功能的面料的制作工艺,其特征在于,步骤二中所述精炼剂为脂肪醇醚磷酸脂。
7.根据权利要求1所述的具有四面弹性功能的面料的制作工艺,其特征在于,步骤六中所述
匀染剂为脂肪醇聚氧乙烯醚。
8.根据权利要求1所述的具有四面弹性功能的面料的制作工艺,其特征在于,步骤七中所述固色剂为酚磺酸甲醛缩合物。
9.根据权利要求1所述的具有四面弹性功能的面料的制作工艺,其特征在于,步骤三中所述退浆采用连续退浆机进行退浆。
10.由权利要求1所述的具有四面弹性功能的面料的制作工艺制得的具有四面弹性功能的面料。
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