CN106801339A - 免烫衬衣领尖及袖头的处理工艺 - Google Patents

免烫衬衣领尖及袖头的处理工艺 Download PDF

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CN106801339A
CN106801339A CN201611247488.3A CN201611247488A CN106801339A CN 106801339 A CN106801339 A CN 106801339A CN 201611247488 A CN201611247488 A CN 201611247488A CN 106801339 A CN106801339 A CN 106801339A
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秦达
刘红艳
李凤霞
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Luthai Textile Co Ltd
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    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M15/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment
    • D06M15/19—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment with synthetic macromolecular compounds
    • D06M15/21—Macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • D06M15/244—Macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds of halogenated hydrocarbons
    • D06M15/256—Macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds of halogenated hydrocarbons containing fluorine
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M11/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising
    • D06M11/68—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising with phosphorus or compounds thereof, e.g. with chlorophosphonic acid or salts thereof
    • D06M11/70—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising with phosphorus or compounds thereof, e.g. with chlorophosphonic acid or salts thereof with oxides of phosphorus; with hypophosphorous, phosphorous or phosphoric acids or their salts
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    • D06M15/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M15/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment
    • D06M15/19—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment with synthetic macromolecular compounds
    • D06M15/21—Macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • D06M15/227—Macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds of hydrocarbons, or reaction products thereof, e.g. afterhalogenated or sulfochlorinated
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M15/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment
    • D06M15/19—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment with synthetic macromolecular compounds
    • D06M15/37—Macromolecular compounds obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • D06M15/643—Macromolecular compounds obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds containing silicon in the main chain
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M2200/00—Functionality of the treatment composition and/or properties imparted to the textile material
    • D06M2200/20—Treatment influencing the crease behaviour, the wrinkle resistance, the crease recovery or the ironing ease

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Chemical Kinetics & Catalysis (AREA)
  • Treatment Of Fiber Materials (AREA)
  • Treatments For Attaching Organic Compounds To Fibrous Goods (AREA)

Abstract

本发明提供一种免烫衬衣领尖及袖头的处理工艺，其特征在于采用以下步骤：1)在衬衣免烫整理前先把衬衣领尖和袖头浸泡三防助剂溶液，再用清水洗领尖和袖头，然后低温烘干；2)喷施整理液；3)把衬衣领尖和袖头浸泡磷酸溶液，然后再用清水洗；4)依次进行预烘干→预熨烫→立体压烫→整体熨烫→焙烘定型。本发明由于在衬衣免烫整理前先把衬衣领尖和袖头进行助剂隔离，再进行衬衣喷树脂整理液，并辅助以采用磷酸溶液剥除衬衣领尖及袖头处的树脂，可以大大降低领尖和袖头的树脂含量，不但保证了免烫衬衣的保型性能，而且衬衣经免烫后，耐水洗次数也随之增加，可大大提高衬衣质量。

Description

免烫衬衣领尖及袖头的处理工艺
技术领域
本发明涉及一种免烫衬衣领尖及袖头的处理工艺，属于服装技术领域。
背景技术
衬衣免烫衬衣具有折裥效果好、外观起皱级别高、立体感强、柔软度好、洗可穿性等优点，深受客户青睐。但免烫衬衣面料经过丝光、平幅、液氨潮交联、预缩等抗皱整理，变得较脆弱、缺乏伸缩性，面料强力低。即使免烫面料本身强力合格，但是经过缝制、喷树脂，水洗、预烘、平压、熨烫、焙烘等工序，也会对衬衣强力造成很大的影响，尤其是衬衣领子和袖头有粘合衬布，比较厚，吸收树脂是衬衣衣身的好几倍，再加上工业水洗机的摩擦力大，领尖和袖头又有棱角，因此造成领尖和袖头降强严重，出现领尖和袖头磨烂或磨毛现象。
发明内容
为克服上述现有技术的不足，本发明提供一种能减少领尖和袖头的树脂含量、增加领子和袖头的耐水洗性能的免烫衬衣领尖及袖头的处理工艺。其技术方案为：
一种免烫衬衣领尖及袖头的处理工艺，其特征在于采用以下步骤：1)在衬衣免烫整理前先把衬衣领尖和袖头浸泡三防助剂溶液，再用清水洗领尖和袖头，然后低温烘干；2)喷施整理液；3)把衬衣领尖和袖头浸泡磷酸溶液，然后再用清水洗；4)依次进行预烘干→预熨烫→立体压烫→整体熨烫→焙烘定型。
所述的免烫衬衣领尖及袖头的处理工艺，步骤1)中，三防助剂溶液采用浓度为10-30g/L的氟素三防助剂，把领尖和袖头浸泡于三防助剂溶液20～30s，然后清水洗领尖和袖头，再30～50℃低温烘干。
所述的免烫衬衣领尖及袖头的处理工艺，步骤2)中，整理液中服丝平树脂的浓度为120～180g/L、服丝平催化剂的浓度为30-50g/L，有机硅柔软剂的浓度为20～40g/L，聚乙烯类保护剂的浓度为20～40g/L，表面活性剂的浓度为3～10g/L，其余为水，带液率为75～80％。
所述的免烫衬衣领尖及袖头的处理工艺，步骤3)中，磷酸溶液中磷酸的浓度为5-9g/L，把领尖和袖头浸泡磷酸溶液20～30S，然后清水洗领尖和袖头，再低温烘干，烘干参数30～50℃。
所述的免烫衬衣领尖及袖头的处理工艺，预烘干温度控制在35～50℃，含潮率在15～25％；预熨烫是对衬衣摆缝、门襟、底边重点接缝部位进行预定型，温度控制在150～160℃，时间0.5～1秒，压力0.5～3N；立体压烫采用立体组合式压烫，温度100～120℃，压力3～5MPa，时间10～40秒；整体熨烫是对整件衬衣进行整烫，特别是压烫衔接部位，保持整件衬衣的平整无折；焙烘定型温度为90～120℃，定型用时为3～6分钟。
其工作原理为：免烫衬衣在免烫处理过程中易造成强力下降，尤其是领子和袖头部位，这两个部位强力下降一般在40％-60％之间，因此领子和袖头部位受损伤最严重，出现毛开或者毛烂现象，领子袖头粘合衬布后比较厚，吸收树脂整理液多。本发明在领子袖头喷树脂整理液前先用三防助剂浸泡是为了阻止树脂溶液进入领尖和袖头部位，避免吸入过多的树脂整理液造成的强力下降。在喷施完树脂溶液后，可能会有一定量的树脂整理液进入领尖和袖头部位，由于磷酸既能剥除树脂整理液又对面料强力损伤比较小，因此再用磷酸溶液浸泡领尖和袖头，进而剥除领尖和袖头部位的树脂整理液，这样再经过烘干机、压烫机、焙烘炉等一系列的设备整理，领子和袖头部位就不会降低强力了，避免了领尖和袖头易磨烂或磨毛现象，提升了衬衣品质。
本发明与现有技术相比，其优点在于：由于在衬衣免烫整理前先把衬衣领尖和袖头进行助剂隔离，再进行衬衣喷树脂整理液，并辅助以采用磷酸溶液剥除衬衣领尖及袖头处的树脂，可以大大降低领尖和袖头的树脂含量，不但保证了免烫衬衣的保型性能，而且衬衣经免烫后，耐水洗次数也随之增加，可大大提高衬衣质量。
具体实施方式
下面结合实施例，对本发明的具体实施方式作进一步描述。以下实施例仅用于更加清楚地说明本发明的技术方案，而不能以此来限制本发明的保护范围。
实施例1，具体步骤如下：
1)三防助剂溶液采用浓度为10g/L的氟素三防助剂，在衬衣免烫整理前先把衬衣领尖和袖头浸泡三防助剂溶液30s，再用清水洗领尖和袖头，然后30℃烘干；
2)喷施整理液：整理液中服丝平树脂ELF的浓度为120g/L、服丝平催化剂F-M的浓度为30g/L、有机硅柔软剂FMW的浓度为40g/L、聚乙烯类保护剂HDP的浓度为20g/L、表面活性剂MRZ的浓度为3g/L，其余为水，喷施衬衣使其带液率为75％；
3)把衬衣领尖和袖头浸泡在浓度为5g/L的磷酸溶液中20s，然后清水洗领尖和袖头，再30℃低温烘干；
4)依次进行预烘干→预熨烫→立体压烫→整体熨烫→焙烘定型。预烘干温度控制在35℃，含潮率在25％；预熨烫是对衬衣摆缝、门襟、底边重点接缝部位进行预定型，温度控制在150℃，时间1秒，压力3N；立体压烫采用立体组合式压烫，温度100℃，压力3MPa，时间20秒；整体熨烫是对整件衬衣进行整烫，特别是压烫衔接部位，保持整件衬衣的平整无折；焙烘定型温度为90℃，定型6分钟。
实施例2，具体步骤如下：
1)三防助剂溶液采用浓度为20g/L的氟素三防助剂，在衬衣免烫整理前先把衬衣领尖和袖头浸泡三防助剂溶液25s，再用清水洗领尖和袖头，然后40℃烘干；
2)喷施整理液：整理液中服丝平树脂SW的浓度为140g/L、服丝平催化剂F-M的浓度为45g/L、有机硅柔软剂NUP的浓度为30g/L、聚乙烯类保护剂CAN的浓度为30g/L、表面活性剂MRZ的浓度为5g/L，其余为水，喷施衬衣使其带液率为80％；
3)把衬衣领尖和袖头浸泡在浓度为7g/L的磷酸溶液中25s，然后清水洗领尖和袖头，再40℃低温烘干；
4)依次进行预烘干→预熨烫→立体压烫→整体熨烫→焙烘定型。预烘干温度控制在40℃，含潮率在20％；预熨烫是对衬衣摆缝、门襟、底边重点接缝部位进行预定型，温度控制在160℃，时间0.5秒，压力2N；立体压烫采用立体组合式压烫，温度120℃，压力3MPa，时间30秒；整体熨烫是对整件衬衣进行整烫，特别是压烫衔接部位，保持整件衬衣的平整无折；焙烘定型温度为110℃，定型4分钟。
实施例3，具体步骤如下：
1)三防助剂溶液采用浓度为30g/L的氟素三防助剂，在衬衣免烫整理前先把衬衣领尖和袖头浸泡三防助剂溶液20s，再用清水洗领尖和袖头，然后40℃烘干；
2)喷施整理液：整理液中F-AP服丝平树脂SW的浓度为150g/L、服丝平催化剂F-M的浓度为40g/L、有机硅柔软剂NUP的浓度为40g/L、聚乙烯类保护剂CAN的浓度为40g/L、6g/L的表面活性剂MRZ，其余为水，喷施衬衣使其带液率为80％；
3)把衬衣领尖和袖头浸泡在浓度为8g/L的磷酸溶液中30s，然后清水洗领尖和袖头，再50℃低温烘干；
4)依次进行预烘干→预熨烫→立体压烫→整体熨烫→焙烘定型。预烘干温度控制在50℃，含潮率在15％；预熨烫是对衬衣摆缝、门襟、底边重点接缝部位进行预定型，温度控制在160℃，时间0.5秒，压力0.5N；立体压烫采用立体组合式压烫，温度120℃，压力5MPa，时间40秒；整体熨烫是对整件衬衣进行整烫，特别是压烫衔接部位，保持整件衬衣的平整无折；焙烘定型温度为120℃，定型5分钟。
成品测试指标对比：
以上所述仅是本发明的优选实施方式，应当指出，对于本技术领域的普通技术人员来说，在不脱离本发明技术原理的前提下，还可以做出若干改进和润饰，这些改进和润饰也应视为本发明的保护范围。

Claims (5)

1.一种免烫衬衣领尖及袖头的处理工艺，其特征在于采用以下步骤：1)在衬衣免烫整理前先把衬衣领尖和袖头浸泡三防助剂溶液，再用清水洗领尖和袖头，然后低温烘干；2)喷施整理液；3)把衬衣领尖和袖头浸泡磷酸溶液，然后再用清水洗；4)依次进行预烘干→预熨烫→立体压烫→整体熨烫→焙烘定型。
2.根据权利要求1所述的免烫衬衣领尖及袖头的处理工艺，其特征在于：步骤1)中，三防助剂溶液采用浓度为10-30g/L的氟素三防助剂，把领尖和袖头浸泡于三防助剂溶液20～30s，然后清水洗领尖和袖头，再30～50℃低温烘干。
3.根据权利要求1所述的免烫衬衣领尖及袖头的处理工艺，其特征在于：步骤2)中，整理液中服丝平树脂的浓度为120～180g/L、服丝平催化剂的浓度为30-50g/L，有机硅柔软剂的浓度为20～40g/L，聚乙烯类保护剂的浓度为20～40g/L，表面活性剂的浓度为3～10g/L，其余为水，带液率为75～80％。
4.根据权利要求1所述的免烫衬衣领尖及袖头的处理工艺，其特征在于：步骤3)中，磷酸溶液中磷酸的浓度为5-9g/L，把领尖和袖头浸泡磷酸溶液20～30S，然后清水洗领尖和袖头，再低温烘干，烘干参数30～50℃。
5.根据权利要求1所述的免烫衬衣领尖及袖头的处理工艺，其特征在于：预烘干温度控制在35～50℃，含潮率在15～25％；预熨烫是对衬衣摆缝、门襟、底边重点接缝部位进行预定型，温度控制在150～160℃，时间0.5～1秒，压力0.5～3N；立体压烫采用立体组合式压烫，温度100～120℃，压力3～5MPa，时间10～40秒；整体熨烫是对整件衬衣进行整烫，特别是压烫衔接部位，保持整件衬衣的平整无折；焙烘定型温度为90～120℃，定型用时为3～6分钟。
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